Thinks, this is the cable I originally got with Mellow Fly - just plain 4 wires with connectors, you can check Mellow fly video to see what I have used ;-)
I'm confused. Your thumbnail says "lightest tap ever!" but the comparison in your video says it's 4g heavier and I've seen other videos that have weighed it at 6g heavier with the screws. Wouldn't that make it heavier than v1?
I think I have mentioned it in to the video, Chaoticlab TAP v1/v2 is the lightest interpretation compare to other taps even there is discrepancy 4g between versions.
ah! I understand now. Were you able to ever get similar resonances with input shaper? I have v1 and was considering getting v2 but I've seen mixed reviews.@@hobbyistnotes
@@o0mrrobot0o26 I have learned alot about input shaper while tuning my printer to get same graphs as I had before and at the end you can see those look better and problem is that I am not fully sure if it's due to tap itself or better tuning skills. Id say both of those taps are very quality pieces and from probe tests it feels like V2 has a touch better probe accuracy but I didn't had many issues with CNC V1. X-switch routing is better for sure but if you have sensorless homing it doesn't matter. I think it comes down to the money, if you have cash burning your pocket - why not to get it, if not I feel like there are some more significant updates you can get for 50$ and even this video was sponsored by Chaoticlab I still think this way.
I have the first version on my Trident. I am happy with it, however anyone installing should take it apart and lubricate the rail, and use a bit of Loctite on the screws holding the rail. I failed to do this step and it got loose. I reassembled it with a bit of purple loctite, and no issues ever since…
It’s strange, but Russia was immediately told that the first version was not working. And on TH-cam, all bloggers do not specifically post graphics. In the end I bought it and it's sad. Acceleration
Graphs before and after were presented on the screen, BUT realistically comparing them doesn't make any justice in this particular case as my 1st setup wasn't really tuned much at all, I have realized that after spending whole night tuning kinematics with new CNC Tap V2.0 trying to push graphs to show something similar to what I had before and at the end I think they are looking somewhat better due to better tuned system over all and not just cus I have installed V2.0 Tap.
Whenever starting a machine thread Always turn in the reverse direction FIRST! You will feel the thread drop into place and you will never cross thread again..
@@hobbyistnotes Wrong, I was literally born into a machine shop and I can tell you that ANY machine threads can be cross threaded and doing this simple yet effective method will one day save you from a major hassle. It makes no difference what the materials are.
Why do you think they come pre lubed from the factory? Based on Chaoticlab documentation for CNC Tap V2.0, they come only with oil that should prevent corrosion during the shipping and storage process and you should replace this oil with proper lubricant.
I just have checked the manual and you are totally right! My bad, going to cut this piece of the video out. Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it.
I refuse to believe it! Such a humongous heavy and expensive structure all to detect the distance to the heat plate ! Is this 18th century or something ? No wonder Voron cannot compete with Bambu, so many unnecessary and heavy complications.
I totally understand your frustration cus I had exactly the same reaction when I first time seen Voron Team releasing the tap, turned out in my case it's the most consistent probing mechanism. When you say "cannot compete with Bambu" - I think you compare them the wrong way: those are 2 different printers with totally different philosophies "Close source with proprietary components - you get what you get" vs "open sources - you have full freedom".
@@hobbyistnotes Philosophies aside Bambu team put a lot of efforts to make the moving parts lighter. It resulted in hight quality prints at high speeds. Voron team seemed not to care about the weight. I am building one myself but for sure the printhead and possibly x rail are from somewhere else.
@@tabooretka my Trident has same quality and I use exactly the same speed profile as bambu, Voron printer as good as you make and tune it. There are ton of lighter tool heads for Voron printers if you need one, the only question - what are you trying to accomplish?
@@tabooretka...so build an XOL. Use an Unklicky to get single digit micron repeatability, but the automatic nozzle calibration is a little more involved. There aren't exactly many open source nozzle probing solutions there, this is just the first generation brute-forcing the rigidity issue with a rail. Further, a load cell isn't exactly easy to read or install without it being a locked down, proprietary component.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA GF D3 | Summer | มาร่วมเป็นพยาน กับวินาทีแชมป์!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JCYvEsFlwx8/mqdefault.jpg)
not true.. there is a carbon fiber one from fysetc with tiny mgn7 rail that is kinda weightless.
I wouldn't call it weightless but you are right based on FYSETC claims Carbon TAP is about 10 grams lighter for +- the same price.
Thanks for the awesome video.
Do you have a custom CAN Cable or did you just put a sheath over it?
Thinks, this is the cable I originally got with Mellow Fly - just plain 4 wires with connectors, you can check Mellow fly video to see what I have used ;-)
I've connected my v2 tap, but red light comes on and stays on all the time when I slide the tap up. Should it start blue and switch to red on trigger?
You are totally right, it has to be blue on stand by and red when triggered. I would make sure you cable is connected and wired properly.
I'm confused. Your thumbnail says "lightest tap ever!" but the comparison in your video says it's 4g heavier and I've seen other videos that have weighed it at 6g heavier with the screws. Wouldn't that make it heavier than v1?
I think I have mentioned it in to the video, Chaoticlab TAP v1/v2 is the lightest interpretation compare to other taps even there is discrepancy 4g between versions.
ah! I understand now. Were you able to ever get similar resonances with input shaper? I have v1 and was considering getting v2 but I've seen mixed reviews.@@hobbyistnotes
@@o0mrrobot0o26 I have learned alot about input shaper while tuning my printer to get same graphs as I had before and at the end you can see those look better and problem is that I am not fully sure if it's due to tap itself or better tuning skills. Id say both of those taps are very quality pieces and from probe tests it feels like V2 has a touch better probe accuracy but I didn't had many issues with CNC V1. X-switch routing is better for sure but if you have sensorless homing it doesn't matter. I think it comes down to the money, if you have cash burning your pocket - why not to get it, if not I feel like there are some more significant updates you can get for 50$ and even this video was sponsored by Chaoticlab I still think this way.
I have the first version on my Trident. I am happy with it, however anyone installing should take it apart and lubricate the rail, and use a bit of Loctite on the screws holding the rail. I failed to do this step and it got loose. I reassembled it with a bit of purple loctite, and no issues ever since…
Good point I had to include it in to the video, unfortunately I forgot about it.
It’s strange, but Russia was immediately told that the first version was not working. And on TH-cam, all bloggers do not specifically post graphics. In the end I bought it and it's sad. Acceleration
@@shta-takoe I didn't had such issue both of taps have worked well with ~10k acceleration.
🔥🔥🔥
Can you when tuned compare Input shaper graphs new vs old?
Graphs before and after were presented on the screen, BUT realistically comparing them doesn't make any justice in this particular case as my 1st setup wasn't really tuned much at all, I have realized that after spending whole night tuning kinematics with new CNC Tap V2.0 trying to push graphs to show something similar to what I had before and at the end I think they are looking somewhat better due to better tuned system over all and not just cus I have installed V2.0 Tap.
Whenever starting a machine thread Always turn in the reverse direction FIRST!
You will feel the thread drop into place and you will never cross thread again..
Quality metal to metal thread doesn't require such fiddling. We aren't dealing with plastic thread here.
@@hobbyistnotes Wrong, I was literally born into a machine shop and I can tell you that ANY machine threads can be cross threaded and doing this simple yet effective method will one day save you from a major hassle. It makes no difference what the materials are.
@@noanyobiseniss7462 Man I am trolling you, you are right and it's common sense. Don't take it personal I hear that advice 10 times a day.
@@hobbyistnotes KK lol, tough to tell on the interwebs these days! ;)
Why do you think they come pre lubed from the factory? Based on Chaoticlab documentation for CNC Tap V2.0, they come only with oil that should prevent corrosion during the shipping and storage process and you should replace this oil with proper lubricant.
I just have checked the manual and you are totally right! My bad, going to cut this piece of the video out. Thanks for your comment, I really appreciate it.
I refuse to believe it! Such a humongous heavy and expensive structure all to detect the distance to the heat plate ! Is this 18th century or something ? No wonder Voron cannot compete with Bambu, so many unnecessary and heavy complications.
I totally understand your frustration cus I had exactly the same reaction when I first time seen Voron Team releasing the tap, turned out in my case it's the most consistent probing mechanism. When you say "cannot compete with Bambu" - I think you compare them the wrong way: those are 2 different printers with totally different philosophies "Close source with proprietary components - you get what you get" vs "open sources - you have full freedom".
@@hobbyistnotes Philosophies aside Bambu team put a lot of efforts to make the moving parts lighter. It resulted in hight quality prints at high speeds. Voron team seemed not to care about the weight. I am building one myself but for sure the printhead and possibly x rail are from somewhere else.
@@tabooretka my Trident has same quality and I use exactly the same speed profile as bambu, Voron printer as good as you make and tune it. There are ton of lighter tool heads for Voron printers if you need one, the only question - what are you trying to accomplish?
@@tabooretka...so build an XOL. Use an Unklicky to get single digit micron repeatability, but the automatic nozzle calibration is a little more involved.
There aren't exactly many open source nozzle probing solutions there, this is just the first generation brute-forcing the rigidity issue with a rail. Further, a load cell isn't exactly easy to read or install without it being a locked down, proprietary component.