I have been working on brakes for years, ASE Certified, I would NEVER use air tools on brake components. ESPECIALLY to tighten. ALWAYS use a torque wrench. I have seen air tools strip out the threads. For that vehicle, bracket bolts are to be torqued 105-126 ft/lb, and Caliper bolts to 16-23 f/lb. I would have also cleaned the hub, and rotor before putting rotor on, and used NEW brake hardware. i.e. slides. you are using new rotors and pads, and slides are not expensive. Never use brake grease for pins, it can, and usually does damage the rubber boots. only use white lithium grease.
Let alone when someone else later on... (Probably a future owner of said vehicle) doesn't have an air ratchet tries to remove mounting bolts and thinking a breaker bar plus a 16 lb sledge is going to break it poops yep ! Now he gets to buy new mounting bolts too! Thanks guys!
@@christopherhaak9824 4 Years later and still have the same car as a project car now alongside my 2021 Dodge ram 2500. I appreciate this lol. Ive done multiple brake and rotor job by now but its appreciated.
Just changed the front brakes on my daughters 08 Altima, thanks to your videos it was a simple job even with a cast on my right arm. You saved me several $$$$. Thanks for sharing. Michael
This was a great video up into the point where you were starting to put the tire on. You never hooked in the caliper clips with the loop on the brake pad. This is very important as it helps the brake pad come off the road awhile the brakes are not engaged. Why does everyone forget this very important step.
Did you notice they put it back together without the pad wear reduction pins in the pads. Those metal pieces they used the brush on have metal pins sticking out and they go through the metal piece riveted to the pad that has a hole on it. This pulls the pad away from the disc to reduce wear during non braking times.
Correct, when the pad are installed, the reduction pins fit inside the pad loop and you do the top first and then insert the bottom of the pad. This was a major oversight.
@@sskillafornia If you look at the rotation of the wheel when driving (forward), they pull away the leading edge of the pad and naturally the rear pulls away simply from entrained air flow on the rotor. For sure important that the bracket channel is clean so the pads can freely retract.
Been doing brakes since before cars had front disc brakes. I just wanted to say, you did a great job. If you are just learning to do brake work, you need to be sure that you have done it correctly. There are many different kinds of disc brakes. Different styles of calipers. Some need special tools just to compress them, and many have more then one piston. Remember, peoples lives are in your hands when you replace brakes. Don't let them scare you, but check out videos, like this one, for each different application to be sure you know how to do a good job. Always think safety.
Thank you so much for helping me, i hit the rotor to much using a big axe and a piece of wood to not damage the rotor, then i unscrewed the 32 mm axle nut and the sensor, then the 4 nuts 17 mm from the back of the bearing wheels, but actually the bearing wheels is so seized and i couldn't by hitting it to do anything until now. I'm wondering if i have a 3-jaw gear puller can help, or any suggestion that i hope to hear it from you soon dear DIY Tanker. thanks
The brakes had been replaced before. When you removed the pads, I can see the pads installed backward. manufactures always installed the wear pad inwards.
my 2011 nissan maxima had 2 different sized caliper pins- always note which pin went on top and which on bottom- for mine the shorter w rubber stopper pin went on the bottom and the longer caliper pin went on top/ this video helped and showed the shorter pin w black rubber at 6:14- great video
Appreciate the video - about to do the (four wheel) brake job on our Quest for the first time and ya can't beat an "instructor taking ya though the motions" right "next" to you (in a video). BTW - I have the complete Nissan repair manuals which show the two slider pins reversed - the one with the rubber tip on the bottom, the plain one up top. When I pulled my pins out it was opposite which I believe is briefly visible with your video, too. At first I thought my pins had been installed incorrectly (since they didn't match the book positions) but your and another video here convinced me the book itself was wrong so I put the pins back the way I took them out (had opened up the left-side brake today just to familiarize myself with the construction - will actually do the brake job tomorrow). BUT...the lower plain slider pin had =zero= grease on it and was a real pain to take out of its socket after unscrewing it - a thorough wirebrushing and about 3 gallons of grease remedied that - I suspect the two front brakes will end up both being like this which may explain the shuddering of the steering wheel during braking (and only during braking). I'm looking forward to taking off the other wheel and seeing if it, too, has a greaseless stuck lower slider pin... Anyway, thanks much for the video - again TH-cam and video posters like you have come through strongly with model-specific assistance.
thank you so much for sharing this video, as well I have question, I've been trying to take out the rotor piece from my nissan altima 2008 car but its not coming out as easy as you did in the video. Do you think there is any specific reason to why its not coming out as easy as yours and do you have any suggestions on how to take the rotor out and remove it. I hope to hear back from you and again thank you so much for the useful information and video.
Thanks for the great video. I have done these brakes many times before and the wire brush on the anti rattle clip it an absolute necessity. I am curious however about whether you 'hooked' the clip into the bracket on the pad off camera or if you left it off. I've run them both floating or clipped in. I think when clipped in and keeping the pads off the rotor they last longer and are much more quiet but I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Bleeding is a process that releases air from all-fluid systems. So if you replace the caliper, you'd have to bleed. Flushing is just excessive bleeding until you start seeing the new fluid being forced out and the system is now purged of the old. You have to bleed from every brake to get a full flush, there's debates about what order to do it in and why.
+Derrick Gordon 2:25 Replace rotor if it doesnt have min 26mm thickness. U can bring it to places like AdvancedAuto or Autozone and have it resurfaced. If it doesnt meat 26mm spec, then you will need a new rotor.
Don't lewd the back of the pads I don't know what moron started that s***. the only thing you have to grease is where the brakes make contact with the rotor bracket. Yoga thing you forgot to do was engage The loop on the brake pad and slide it into the caliber clip so that the brakes pull off when you release the. but as you can see in the video he's just got the thing sticking out and already putting the tire back on.
In this video, he used the following: Ratcheting wrench with 14 & 22 mm size sockets (he used an air wrench, but most ppl don't have that) Mallet (to remove rotor) Wire hanger (to hold caliper) Brake grease Wire brush Brake cleaner Torque wrench Caliper clamp
thank you so much for sharing this video, as well I have question. Which brake pads that you guys used? OEM or other brand.... What you think about the wagner if I will use them in my Nissan Altima 08. thanks much Haz
Ah yes thanks alot for this. I have this exact car, 2008 nissan altima coupe. Need to replace the rotors as well! Good instructions, and well lit, so we can see everything! :) Thank you!
forgive me for the silly question but I'm sure this will work for the 2013. the reason I say this is because I barely got the 2013 and wasn't too sure if this had the sensors on if you might something off. I'm sure I'll be fine for mechanic that's a little laugh
Nice video except for one thing on the reinstallation of the brake pads before we put the wheel on you forgot to show everybody that little spring that sticks out you didn't tuck it in to the hole on the break
Unless you have a really good feel for pneumatic impacts you definitely want to stay away from using it for caliper bolts which torque to 32 (lb-ft.) Not saying you over-tightened it for sure, but it just looks like when you did the final torque it was already over torqued by the impact which is why the torque wrench clicked without any leeway (so it seems from my viewpoint).
thanks to this video not saying anything about the spring clips that have to be taken off old pads and put on new, i now have to spend another $100 to replace them. THANKS!
Always use a lug to hold the rotor in place while finishing with the caliper & clean parts before, not during & of course it instantly torqued your ass used a gun its probably OVER TORQUED & gonna snap.
On a 2011 Sentra; at the top of the disc hardware is a metal tab. It sticks out the side of the hardware when the pad is removed. This tab supposed to fit thru the eyelet of the pads wear sensor. Your hardware tabs were not sticking out before you removed the pads, but were clearly sticking out at the end of the video. Not putting the hardware tab into the eyelet of the pads wear sensor is procedurally incorrect! I just did this Sentra's first brake job & clearly saw the metal hardware tab come out of the pads wear sensor eyelet. This Sentra's configuration was slightly different from my 1990 240 SX SE, which I drove and repaired for 24 years.
the tab will also run on the backside of the rim and make a terrible noise as I initially discovered... to install them 'floating' you need to snap that tab off which is a waste of pad life, noisy, and as you said, 'procedurally incorrect'...
Never hammer rotor from behind because it can cause damage to it. Use to small screw to push it out eazy and safety. If no screw are there hammer center of rotor that sit on hub. Don't wanna brake anything down there.
awesome video, 2010 Nissan Sentra, walked me through except for one thing...remember to put the metal fingers from the inserts into the brake pads....I caught that from pics I took as I dismantled, but the video was great!
I was so eager to change my breaks for the first time, they qouted $600 to do brakes/rotors :(. So I bought the parts and was excited to do it myself for once, ended up using my employees(had 2 with mechanic experience) do it for me. :). Cost 200 for parts, free labor :). I also bought spark plugs, need TB cleaned as well as MAF sensor, they won't show up no more :(. I need to trick them to do it which I will :)
+MagdielErazo I don't blame your response the way I made it sound like but in reality I love these guys and they make profit for me. I am well aware of this and trust me we have a tight bond and I am financially there for them when they need me! So apologies on my behalf the way I made myself sound like a complete douche which I am not at all!
omg all i want is a vid showing a brake pad change not with rotors i understand its easier doing both showing both but it confuses me not knowing what steps to take and what to ignore when they keeo showing rotors and brakes. i just want to change brakes thats it.\
Jeff Thompson They are the edges of the brake pads. Where they make contact with the caliper mount. They are usually squared pieces at each end of the brake pad.
There are so many things wrong with this vid. Clean the brackets and replace the hardware off the car. Never use the impact wrench for reassembly. Pad retractors, no lube on bracket or caliper bolts, lug nuts on with impact gun, not cleaning caliper and lubing boot..... at least you pulled and relubed the pins. Just take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
+Alex Groh you don't need to bleed the brakes except for reseting the caliper pison by depressing the petal a few times. you only bleed when you replace a line or run the master cylinder low on fluid and get air in the system.
I have been working on brakes for years, ASE Certified, I would NEVER use air tools on brake components. ESPECIALLY to tighten. ALWAYS use a torque wrench. I have seen air tools strip out the threads. For that vehicle, bracket bolts are to be torqued 105-126 ft/lb, and Caliper bolts to 16-23 f/lb. I would have also cleaned the hub, and rotor before putting rotor on, and used NEW brake hardware. i.e. slides. you are using new rotors and pads, and slides are not expensive. Never use brake grease for pins, it can, and usually does damage the rubber boots. only use white lithium grease.
Can you use silicone for the pins as well?
Never they don’t know what they doing at all straight Trash
Let alone when someone else later on... (Probably a future owner of said vehicle) doesn't have an air ratchet tries to remove mounting bolts and thinking a breaker bar plus a 16 lb sledge is going to break it poops yep ! Now he gets to buy new mounting bolts too! Thanks guys!
@@Big_AlMC I only use silicone for the pin lube. It has zero effect on the rubber boot and has very high temp resistance.
@@christopherhaak9824 4 Years later and still have the same car as a project car now alongside my 2021 Dodge ram 2500. I appreciate this lol. Ive done multiple brake and rotor job by now but its appreciated.
Just changed the front brakes on my daughters 08 Altima, thanks to your videos it was a simple job even with a cast on my right arm. You saved me several $$$$. Thanks for sharing.
Michael
This was a great video up into the point where you were starting to put the tire on. You never hooked in the caliper clips with the loop on the brake pad. This is very important as it helps the brake pad come off the road awhile the brakes are not engaged. Why does everyone forget this very important step.
What pins the ones that go on the slide guide ?
I just did my front and I have a worse noise than before
The clips that hang out go inside the C bracket within the brake pad!
Did you notice they put it back together without the pad wear reduction pins in the pads. Those metal pieces they used the brush on have metal pins sticking out and they go through the metal piece riveted to the pad that has a hole on it. This pulls the pad away from the disc to reduce wear during non braking times.
thank you! it was weird how they just ignored those and left them hanging out.
I noticed that too, and I really questioned that !! Glad to see someone else was questioning that !
Why are they only on the top end? How do they keep the bottom half of the pad from wear?
Correct, when the pad are installed, the reduction pins fit inside the pad loop and you do the top first and then insert the bottom of the pad. This was a major oversight.
@@sskillafornia If you look at the rotation of the wheel when driving (forward), they pull away the leading edge of the pad and naturally the rear pulls away simply from entrained air flow on the rotor. For sure important that the bracket channel is clean so the pads can freely retract.
I clean the new rotors BEFORE installing.
joenissan Not an mechanic but wouldn't the rotor get dirty again with everything they're doing around it?
Alejandro Martinez brake rotors come with grease/oil on them. spray them with brake cleaner to get rid of that.
You want a cookie?
Very useful video. But it says the 22mm bolts have a torque spec of 32 ft-lb. That sounds low. Some other video says its 98 ft-lb. Can you confirm?
is there any reason you didn't put that spring that pulls pad from rotor in place?
could someone explain to me when he was talking about compressing to 22mm? I don't understand how he knew it was compressed to correct size?
what were the torgue specs
Been doing brakes since before cars had front disc brakes. I just wanted to say, you did a great job. If you are just learning to do brake work, you need to be sure that you have done it correctly. There are many different kinds of disc brakes. Different styles of calipers. Some need special tools just to compress them, and many have more then one piston. Remember, peoples lives are in your hands when you replace brakes. Don't let them scare you, but check out videos, like this one, for each different application to be sure you know how to do a good job. Always think safety.
cm cl mark
Would the caliper bolts from a 07 Sentra fit the 2015 Nissan Sentra calipers? Thanks.
Thank you so much for helping me, i hit the rotor to much using a big axe and a piece of wood to not damage the rotor, then i unscrewed the 32 mm axle nut and the sensor, then the 4 nuts 17 mm from the back of the bearing wheels, but actually the bearing wheels is so seized and i couldn't by hitting it to do anything until now.
I'm wondering if i have a 3-jaw gear puller can help, or any suggestion that i hope to hear it from you soon dear DIY Tanker.
thanks
Now that was a good video. I wonder how mechanics do the cleaning part?
Can anyone tell me what size the lug nuts are? How many mm? I am traveling across the country to replace my daughter's Altima brakes.
The brakes had been replaced before. When you removed the pads, I can see the pads installed backward. manufactures always installed the wear pad inwards.
my 2011 nissan maxima had 2 different sized caliper pins- always note which pin went on top and which on bottom- for mine the shorter w rubber stopper pin went on the bottom and the longer caliper pin went on top/ this video helped and showed the shorter pin w black rubber at 6:14- great video
If I'm facing the rotor, which way do I turn to loosen the caliber bolts with a ratchet handle???
just think you facing the BOLTs, turn it counterclockwise or right tie. left loose.
Appreciate the video - about to do the (four wheel) brake job on our Quest for the first time and ya can't beat an "instructor taking ya though the motions" right "next" to you (in a video).
BTW - I have the complete Nissan repair manuals which show the two slider pins reversed - the one with the rubber tip on the bottom, the plain one up top. When I pulled my pins out it was opposite which I believe is briefly visible with your video, too. At first I thought my pins had been installed incorrectly (since they didn't match the book positions) but your and another video here convinced me the book itself was wrong so I put the pins back the way I took them out (had opened up the left-side brake today just to familiarize myself with the construction - will actually do the brake job tomorrow).
BUT...the lower plain slider pin had =zero= grease on it and was a real pain to take out of its socket after unscrewing it - a thorough wirebrushing and about 3 gallons of grease remedied that - I suspect the two front brakes will end up both being like this which may explain the shuddering of the steering wheel during braking (and only during braking). I'm looking forward to taking off the other wheel and seeing if it, too, has a greaseless stuck lower slider pin...
Anyway, thanks much for the video - again TH-cam and video posters like you have come through strongly with model-specific assistance.
What grease did you use for the caliper pins with the rubber cushions
mraudi1494 its Caliper Grease: goo.gl/Cp27FM
you can get a little packet
at autozone or ohreallys
the parts store have disc brake grease or lube for that specific application, don't use just regular grease use approved disc brake type
How many foot pounds do you torque the bolts on the caliper?
thank you so much for sharing this video, as well I have question, I've been trying to take out the rotor piece from my nissan altima 2008 car but its not coming out as easy as you did in the video. Do you think there is any specific reason to why its not coming out as easy as yours and do you have any suggestions on how to take the rotor out and remove it.
I hope to hear back from you and again thank you so much for the useful information and video.
2:13 with a rubber hammer. sometimes u have to hit it harder. its due to rust, brake pad dust, along with the rain/sun cause it to seize up.
can you add the list of tools and supplies you will need
What's the 24mm thing at the end. How do you measure?
Thanks for the great video. I have done these brakes many times before and the wire brush on the anti rattle clip it an absolute necessity. I am curious however about whether you 'hooked' the clip into the bracket on the pad off camera or if you left it off. I've run them both floating or clipped in. I think when clipped in and keeping the pads off the rotor they last longer and are much more quiet but I'd like to hear your thoughts.
What is bleeding the brakes? Do you need to bleed the brake lines on this job?
MAD2202dpd no, you dont need to bleed them. ill make a video on bleeding brakes. or search youtube for other examples.
Do you have to bleed your breaks in this process too? Or is that only when you flush the break fluid?
Bleeding is a process that releases air from all-fluid systems. So if you replace the caliper, you'd have to bleed. Flushing is just excessive bleeding until you start seeing the new fluid being forced out and the system is now purged of the old. You have to bleed from every brake to get a full flush, there's debates about what order to do it in and why.
Do you need to change the rotor, I have a 2009 Altima and the dealer told me I will probably also need new rotors
+Derrick Gordon 2:25 Replace rotor if it doesnt have min 26mm thickness. U can bring it to places like AdvancedAuto or Autozone and have it resurfaced. If it doesnt meat 26mm spec, then you will need a new rotor.
Great video but why didn't you lubricate the pads?
Don't lewd the back of the pads I don't know what moron started that s***. the only thing you have to grease is where the brakes make contact with the rotor bracket. Yoga thing you forgot to do was engage The loop on the brake pad and slide it into the caliber clip so that the brakes pull off when you release the. but as you can see in the video he's just got the thing sticking out and already putting the tire back on.
Can you provide a list of tools needed for the this job?
In this video, he used the following:
Ratcheting wrench with 14 & 22 mm size sockets (he used an air wrench, but most ppl don't have that)
Mallet (to remove rotor)
Wire hanger (to hold caliper)
Brake grease
Wire brush
Brake cleaner
Torque wrench
Caliper clamp
Thank you gentlemen!! I see I can do this job myself now!
heywhat are the torque spec's ?
thank you so much for sharing this video, as well I have question. Which brake pads that you guys used? OEM or other brand.... What you think about the wagner if I will use them in my Nissan Altima 08.
thanks much
Haz
wagner is a good brand.
thank you so much for your time.
Haz
Ah yes thanks alot for this. I have this exact car, 2008 nissan altima coupe. Need to replace the rotors as well! Good instructions, and well lit, so we can see everything! :) Thank you!
Quick tip: It's not a bad idea to install 2 lug nuts to try and hold the rotor in place while screwing on the caliper bracket and caliper lol
Bradley Escobar thats actually a great idea. thx!
That's what I do
forgive me for the silly question but I'm sure this will work for the 2013. the reason I say this is because I barely got the 2013 and wasn't too sure if this had the sensors on if you might something off. I'm sure I'll be fine for mechanic that's a little laugh
Nice video except for one thing on the reinstallation of the brake pads before we put the wheel on you forgot to show everybody that little spring that sticks out you didn't tuck it in to the hole on the break
You guys didn't do the spring clips
Unless you have a really good feel for pneumatic impacts you definitely want to stay away from using it for caliper bolts which torque to 32 (lb-ft.) Not saying you over-tightened it for sure, but it just looks like when you did the final torque it was already over torqued by the impact which is why the torque wrench clicked without any leeway (so it seems from my viewpoint).
Thanks a lot. This video is very helpful, I have the newest Nissan I think it's 2013 does this video apply to my year
Fucked up. The brake pads didn't slide into the top tabs
They left both front and rear tabs bent outwards. Fail
thanks to this video not saying anything about the spring clips that have to be taken off old pads and put on new, i now have to spend another $100 to replace them. THANKS!
Thank you for teaching me how to do all this 😁😁
Thanks for the video, I was able to change out my Nissan Altima brake pads.
Always use a lug to hold the rotor in place while finishing with the caliper & clean parts before, not during & of course it instantly torqued your ass used a gun its probably OVER TORQUED & gonna snap.
thanks very much it does really help i dont have to paid the shop to do it
On a 2011 Sentra; at the top of the disc hardware is a metal tab. It sticks out the side of the hardware when the pad is removed. This tab supposed to fit thru the eyelet of the pads wear sensor. Your hardware tabs were not sticking out before you removed the pads, but were clearly sticking out at the end of the video. Not putting the hardware tab into the eyelet of the pads wear sensor is procedurally incorrect! I just did this Sentra's first brake job & clearly saw the metal hardware tab come out of the pads wear sensor eyelet. This Sentra's configuration was slightly different from my 1990 240 SX SE, which I drove and repaired for 24 years.
the tab will also run on the backside of the rim and make a terrible noise as I initially discovered... to install them 'floating' you need to snap that tab off which is a waste of pad life, noisy, and as you said, 'procedurally incorrect'...
Bungee cords work too
Never hammer rotor from behind because it can cause damage to it. Use to small screw to push it out eazy and safety. If no screw are there hammer center of rotor that sit on hub. Don't wanna brake anything down there.
great way of teaching thank you both.
Thanks for this video it helps lot on my 2010 Altima
130000?
should of bled the brakes.
anti-seize the clips and pulled the glide pin boots off ,and sprayed the rotor off the car
awesome video, 2010 Nissan Sentra, walked me through except for one thing...remember to put the metal fingers from the inserts into the brake pads....I caught that from pics I took as I dismantled, but the video was great!
I was so eager to change my breaks for the first time, they qouted $600 to do brakes/rotors :(. So I bought the parts and was excited to do it myself for once, ended up using my employees(had 2 with mechanic experience) do it for me. :). Cost 200 for parts, free labor :). I also bought spark plugs, need TB cleaned as well as MAF sensor, they won't show up no more :(. I need to trick them to do it which I will :)
+MagdielErazo I don't blame your response the way I made it sound like but in reality I love these guys and they make profit for me. I am well aware of this and trust me we have a tight bond and I am financially there for them when they need me! So apologies on my behalf the way I made myself sound like a complete douche which I am not at all!
you can find basic rotors from cheap learn it yourself I did my rother for 40 dollars and brake for 35. total 75.00 too late they already played him
32 ft.lbs.???????? Yikes, hope the guy driving this car is alive. That is an extremely low torque for those bracket bolts
omg all i want is a vid showing a brake pad change not with rotors i understand its easier doing both showing both but it confuses me not knowing what steps to take and what to ignore when they keeo showing rotors and brakes. i just want to change brakes thats it.\
Aren't you supposed to grease the contact points?
what are the contact points? im dumb to this
Jeff Thompson They are the edges of the brake pads. Where they make contact with the caliper mount. They are usually squared pieces at each end of the brake pad.
Ok I got it...thanks
can't get those 2 bigger bolts off so I can remove the rotor! pb blaster and a lot of fucking force still not coming off!!!!
Great simple video!
Thank you for sharing this video
thanks for the advice
Thanks for this. My 2010 altima is in need of some new stopping power.
SPRING CLIPS WEREN'T ATTACHED!!!!
they didn't use any lube on the back of the new rotors either
Great video.
Very helpful video!!!!!
stupid Honda and Acura have screws on those rotor. and they stripped very easily
very well explain video
Thanks
There are so many things wrong with this vid. Clean the brackets and replace the hardware off the car. Never use the impact wrench for reassembly. Pad retractors, no lube on bracket or caliper bolts, lug nuts on with impact gun, not cleaning caliper and lubing boot..... at least you pulled and relubed the pins. Just take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
Forget, I can't remember shit
Excellent video! Very well done and very helpful. God bless you; Jesus loves you, and He is the way to God!
GOOD REVIEW GOOD NISSAN.
Well let me tell you this man failed the test lol are you guys hiring because I'm very good at this
Great video thx!!!
thx . great video
Um they never bleed the brakes or added brake fluid remind me not to go here
This guy is a noob I wouldn't trust this guy. This job is half asked.
Just gonna skip over the bleeding process?
+Alex Groh you don't need to bleed the brakes except for reseting the caliper pison by depressing the petal a few times. you only bleed when you replace a line or run the master cylinder low on fluid and get air in the system.
Great video
Great video!