Good info. Thanks for sharing. I have been an ASE master tech at an automotive dealership for 20 years. I would like to add to your comment about the ECU idle learn procedure: once you reconnect the battery, you should first make sure all the accessories are off, headlights,radio, and especially the A/C! Make sure the front tires are pointing straight ahead. Now, start the car up and let it idle. Allow the engine to reach “operating temperature.” This happens when the radiator cooling fans turn on. Keep letting the engine idle until the radiator cooling fans cycle on and off twice. This could take upwards of approximately 30 minutes. Then, your idle learn procedure is finished. You can even disconnect the battery and perform the above “idle learn procedure” if you have erratic idle problems, and you HAVE NOT done any tune up work. When you made the comment about “not to disconnect the electronic throttle body connectors”, I don’t see why not. The car battery is already disconnected. There is no power going to them. I have disconnected those electrical connectors many, many times, even with the battery connected. It has never caused me any problems. But, just don’t have the ignition on at all while working the butterfly valves with your hands. Just trying to spread some experience and knowledge. ✌️
Thank you so much for commenting!!! I am going right now to try this as I didn't do this the last 3 times my car battery died and I believe it to be the reason my car no longer idles at 700 rpm but drops down to 500 rpm when at a red light. It only occurs when in drive and goes back up to 700 rpm when I put it in park. I will update with results!
@@vetacoth nada.. I don't think I reset it correctly as the radio stations didn't reset nor did the seat configuration which always happens when my battery dies.
Thank you very much for this video. Thanks to you I was able to change the spark plugs and thoroughly clean the throttle bodies, and saving me $300 (that's what my Infiniti dealership said it would cost to change the plugs, plus they lied and said they would have to remove the intake manifold to gain access to the plugs!) in the process. People were telling me that it would be too difficult for me to do it by myself because I'm not a mechanic although I do have basic automotive ability. I'm glad that I followed your video and was able to do it myself without any issues, and also have the satisfaction of doing the job myself. Also my Infiniti runs & idles a little smoother now with a slight increase in overall fuel economy! Thank you my friend.
@Chris Francelli It's pretty ridiculous. Even Toyota stealerships are nutz. Quoted me $350+ to replace a $50 dollar fan I bought at O'Reilly's and replaced myself in a half hour.
My g25 goes to over 2000 on startup, but reduces Normal after a few seconds. Also can I just spray into the throttle body? Can I move the butterfly via cable like on my ford ?
So my G37 Journey sedan wouldn't start a few days ago. I tried and tried, it would crank but wouldn't start. I pressed on the pedal it started right up. It has been doing that every now and then or wouldn't start on the first crank. I knew it wasn't my battery or alternator so I did my research and figured I'd try this out. I didn't replace my spark plugs but cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensors was more than enough. One sensor was actually faced the wrong way. Some hex bolts were stripped but it was worth it. Anyone with the same problem with their G should try to see if this will help. This video made it a lot easier!
Just did mine at 95K miles, 2011 G37S, the car runs so much smoother now with far better throttle response and crisper transmission shifts ! Some of the plugs were in pretty tight and the threads were discolored like starting to bond to the cylinder threads, I put a dab of anti seize on the new plugs and I replaced the Spark Plug wire tubes. The Old Denso Iridium plugs were gapped at .038, the new Denso plugs came at about .041. When I finished I hooked up the battery Neg, started the motor, turn off all fans, radio etc. let it idle until the radiator fans came on two times, turn off. It was hunting for the new idle speed so drove it around some and now its right back to 650-700. Thank's for the post!
Just wanted to stop in and say thank you! Just successfully cleaned my TB and MAF on my 2007 G35 (VQ35HR) with out a problem. It did idle a little high after cleaning but took it on a drive and after I gave it full throttle everything went back to normal! Better performance after cleaning!! My idle is back smooth and not hunting.. for those who are having problems you are doing something wrong and not sure what it is but unplug your negative battery cable and DONT unplug either of your TB.
After watching this video, I decided to get the deed done on my 07 G35. Will update the results once I am done. Thank you for your video, very good. Carry on. Cheers. Update: I completed the job yesterday and My G is running smoothly and idles as it should be. I got told to be very brave to change the plugs and clean throttle body as people tend to go to the mechanics for that kid of work. With the help of your detailed instructions, I pulled this off. Thank you once again.
Great video!!! I changed the spark plugs and cleaned the mass flow sensors and throttle bodies without any issues on my G37. The throttle bodies were filthy - car has over 109k miles. The video made everything so incredibly easy. You The Man!
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!!! I own a 2012 G37xs, and had rough idling. Even after I seafoamed her (my G37 is female 😜), she wasn't running as smoothly as she used to when I purchased her. Your video gave me the courage to perform this maintenance myself. I appreciate your attention to detail, along with your tips. Thanks for not cursing or chatting about irrelevant information. Most of all, thanks for saving me a ton of money. 😁 I have subscribed to your channel.
I have a G37 2012 sport She’s also a girl. Lol Her name is Flip’d Whip. Any way what did you mean by “seafoamed”? What does this involve and what does it result in as far as performance?
THANK YOU! My car isn't idling rough anymore. I would always see the rpm drop to 400 or 500 but now it stays at 650 without any problem. I let my car idle but it was still weird so i drove it and it fixed that problem. Awesome video!
Alex, just finished cleaning Throttle Bodies, MAS and did the EPS delete, on my 2011 Infiniti G37X. The videos are Great. One small thing you left out was how to reset the idle, after removing throttle bodies.
Just driving the vehicle normally for a few days will enable the ECU to relearn the idle. May use a tad bit more gas until it relearns but really no need to do the procedure if you can wait.
Great video. Thanks for not doing it at night like other DIY car vids. I was able to change my plugs yesterday with no issues. I have over 200K miles and hope I can keep the car for years to come.
Well done with some good tips. My 2009 370Z now has 91K miles, so it's about time I take care of these tasks. The car is in great shape with clock-work oil changes (& especially with the new 6-speed tranny and rear diff), but I'm noticing a slight decrease in throttle response lately. I'm sure this will address that. Much appreciated!
Excellent video! Used to complete TB and MAF sensor cleaning on a '12 G37 sedan w 90K. The more extensions you have the better, its cramped at the rear of engine and the two rear plugs are the hardest of the job. Also, I paired this video with TB relearn procedure video from Motorvate DIY. Thank you for saving me hundreds of dollars.
There is actually a setting to reset the idle in the car which involves a series of steps pressing different buttons and pedal in an exact order. If your idle is erratic after doing this, then this other video I found explains the procedure. It worked for me when my idle wouldn't go back to normal (just search this title on TH-cam): G37 & 370Z After Throttle Body Cleaning: Motorvate’s DIY Garage Ep.27 These are the steps: 1) Warm up engine to operating temp (go for a 10 min ride) 2) Turn off car 3) Turn off all electrical components - A/C or Heat - Audio - Headlights - Navigation Screen - Etc 4) Turn car to ON position (engine off) 5) Wait 3 seconds then fully press the gas pedal 5 times 6) Wait 7 seconds then fully press and HOLD gas pedal for 10 seconds (until service engine light blinks) 7) Release pedal for 10 seconds (while light is still blinking) 8) Press and hold pedal for 10 seconds again 9) Release pedal, press brake and start engine
Hey thanks. Just tuned everything, watching your video. I even changed the pcv valves. Didn't think I could do it. U helped me get it done. 114k when tuned. Someone before me used autolite plugs..... horrible idea and performance. Only makes sense in the long run to spend more for quality parts. Spent a lot of time cleaning the throttle bodies. Big difference. I've subbed and will be watching ur vids to keep up with my '09 g37.
I really want to thank you for your G37 videos. I used your video specifically to perform my own tune up cleaned the MAF and throttle bodies! Im a chick and it felt so fulfilling to be able to do this on my own! I wouldn’t have been able to do it with out YOUR detailed video. All the others didn’t show enough plus you gave me extra tips on how to get it running efficiently. Im also going to change out my cabin air filter because the previous owners smoked. the smell has really gone away with time but it took a few months. I think the cabin air filter change will really clean it up. And your video there also is going to help me. When I changed my spark plugs one of them had oil on it. I have an extended warranty on the car so I’m going to take it in but what am I looking at? What type of problem do I have? I dont want to be taken advantage of at the dealership.
Just found your Vid. About to do the same cannot wait to do this right under 100k ATM. Plugs cost me just over 100 for 6 OEM and my friend at Infiniti said they would have charged me like 400 ish. Your video saved me some serious mulaa.
Fantastic video. Hints and tips were valuable. Back right (looking at engine) spark plug the worst (had to disconnect spark plug boot wiring) but was able to replace battery, 6 x plugs and clean throttle, airflow in ~2.5 hrs. Saved a bunch = $300+. Thank you!
Great advice about not removing the plug from the throttle body. G forums are full of people who did this, and are faced with idling issues. But PLEASE don’t put anti seize on spark plugs! It alters the torque value by up to 20 pounds, and can alter the operating temperature of the plug.
Nice video man! I did my wife's 2010 G37x recently using your video guide. One thing I noticed was when I took out the old/original spark plugs they appeared to have been gapped a lot shorter than what the manufacturer recommends. Says 1.1mm for new plugs but the old ones were not even 1.0mm (after 40K miles). Either way the car is running much smoother after replacing the plugs and cleaning the throttle bodies and sensors. thanks buddy!
Thanks, just did it yesterday on G37x 2013, at 75k miles, should say, spark plugs were still quite good, throttle had some tar, cleaned, MAFS looked clean also. As a result I increased MPG to 25.2 from 21-22, tested on 3hr highway drive.
Ilia K , spark plugs was good huh? I have a 13 @ 54 or 56 k , and I only get 18mpg, it sit alot also because of my job. I'm going to clean the throttle and Mafs too. I know at my last oil change we did the cabin filter but not sure if we did my intake filters. I'll change them also, nice to know your getting that mpg, I use to get 23.
The repair shop nearby just quoted me $450 for plugs and air filters. No thanks. I'm not a noob at wrench turning but newer technology has it's tricks so I was hesitant to try it myself. Thanks to your video I'll get my parts and get to work.
Done. My car ran ok before but it was starting to get a little sluggish and minor hesitation now and then. Now it runs great and I don't have any codes! Total for parts was $185. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video, you’re a really good explainer! You saved me a lot of money. I was able to replace my spark plugs and Ignition coils watching this.
Nice. If I didn't watch this, I would have probably disconnected the wires on those throttle bodies. The plugs on my 370Z need replacing. This tuneup will be a big help!
I try to R/R spark plugs earlier than the 100K interval but not always for the reason you think and the logic is possibly more obscure than you think. Yes changing them early can make the engine run more efficient and piece of mind of a known starting point for future wear. The technique is the same but my logic is simply this. For the 100K + factory intervals think about this for a second. Depending on how many miles you put on a year that could take a while. I realize the technology has come a long way over the years but I still think back of the horror stories I hear about plugs breaking during removal due to excessive heat/cold cycles over the years and to be honest for a vehicle that is still what I consider reasonably accessible at least by today’s engine design standards. For my piece of mind it is worth changing earlier. Maybe not the 20/35/3K of the older days but probably 50/75K or somewhere in that time frame. I changed the plugs on a 2012 M37 and again reasonably accessible especially compared to modern competitors engine. it appears that the layout and procedure is fairly common for most of not all VQ37 series engines....Infiniti at least RWD/AWD. I will not even begin to guess the difficulty level of the Nissan Front Wheel Drive engines especially the rear bank. Poster makes a VERY GOOD point about the plugs. This is the first engine I have changed plugs with the narrower body. To me one of the potential weak points but make sure you use Firm but steady pressure when removing the plugs. When the initial torque breaks it will make a snap and get your attention. I was about 99% sure I broke the plug in half. I continued to unthread the plug and was totally expecting to pull up half of a plug. About one of the longest five seconds of my life. It came out whole and that being the first time I had seen how thin the plugs were got me anxious. Once the first came out the rest were easy just remember NO Impact tools at least not to break the torque, yes I know shops do it but they know the risks too and I am sure they get bitten on that occasionally. Auto Zone sells a Spark Pug Socket that is slightly different than normal. This socket has the rubber insulator in the socket and the extension “6” I believe is built into the socket to avoid the risk of the socket coming off the extension bar. About $15 but they have made very quick work of plug removal and replacement over the years. The 5/8” one I got in 2009 worked for about seven different vehicles and was perfect up until Infiniti went to the narrower plug. This is one of those PAY ATTENTION to the torque specs and follow to the letter. The proper torque value in each cylinder is way more critical than the sequence of torque/load distribution like a valve cover, cylinder head or intake manifold etc... Another trick I tought myself over the years and partially OCD partially military training in attention to detail. I lay the new plugs out still in the box. After I remove one pig at a time from the box and check Gap.....yes check gap. They can get bumped and come out of gap during shipping so as they say........”Trust but Verify” and it only takes a few extra seconds per plus. After the Anti Seize and the new plug is ready for installation. I mark the cylinder # on the box and make a uninterrupted transfer of the old plug to the box and the new plug to the cylinder. CLl me d school but keep the cylinder spark plug well open as little as possible. Torque and the. The coil pack. Don’t forget the Die-Electric grease on the top of the plug and in my case a small dab around the coil pack body near the top of the plug well. The logic for me at least is I can get the new plugs in and complete the task but by marking the box and knowing what cylinder that plug came from I can review and compare the plugs against a reference burn chart later. Marking the cylinder also helps isolate any potential problem plugs to a specific cylinder if further attention is needed. If all the plugs are worn normally the. The old plugs go to the trash. As another point. Keep the new plugs ready. Personally if your going through all the work to remove the plug, might as well replace them you have to put plugs back in anyway whether old or new. If you think plugs maybe questionable remove and inspect one random plug. I would say #1 at least for the VQ37 engine since for me at least the easiest to access and the most critical plug for engine performance. One more touch of OCD but I have taken a color contrasting permanent marker (Sharpie) and mark the top of the coil pack with the cylinder #....again for future reference. Good as time as any to check all the vacuum lines, electrical connectors and other areas for leaks and dry rot. Personally I inspect get a good general visual inspection of the work are and a 48” circle around the work area. That usually covers pretty much the entire engine compartment. You might find more work but also might catch a future repair problem earlier.
Just throwing in I disconnected the clips to the throttle bodies before. Just disconnect the battery for like 5 to 10 minutes. Hit that brake pedal twice for a couple discharges. Plug the battery. Back in. And then let it relearn idle like you said before driving off. Also good to leave that disconnected while doing headers and test pipes lol
Another good video - I'm using this an your serptentine belt replacement video this weekend to work on my '08 G35XS. I'm going to; replace the serpentine belt, change the spark plugs and clean the throttle bodies and Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensors- a good overall tuneup. Very well done videos, very helpful and thanks for taking the time to share with others!
Great video! Very helpful. One thing I wanna point is that regarding cleaning the throttle bodies, the Infiniti Service Manual does NOT say to disconnect the battery. I'm on the fence as whether I will disconnect it or not. But I'm only going to clean the TBs and the MAF sensors, will replace the spark plugs at a later time. Just FYI.
Thanks! It has become a habit for me to disconnect the battery whenever working with electrical components. Also, it is something you want to do anyway to reset the ECU if you are cleaning the sensors and throttle bodies. But, guess you can do it either way! Good luck with your maintenance!
thank you so much brother! followed your steps and changed the plugs on my G for the first time myself. great instructions.. she runs much much better. thanks again 🙏🏼
Good sound steps and theory on getting basic maintenance items being taken care of without question. Since you are basically...”In the neighborhood”.....can you change the PCV valve and along those lines is there one central PCV valve or one for each throttle body? Another trick I learned....well actually taught myself. When removing the plugs I do one cylinder at a time. When the new plug goes in, I immediately install the d plug into the box of the new one. I mark each box with the cylinder number and can review the plug later at my leisure. I can get the new plugs in then after reviewing the old plugs I can verify even and normal wear patterns and if there is for some reason the wear/burn pattern is abnormal then I can isolate to that particular cylinder for further troubleshooting. What technology are the OEM Denso plugs, Copper, Platinum Double Platinum, Iridium etc....?
Great video! It's what I needed to do my upcoming tune up!👏🏽 I have a question for you that you may have the answer to. When I accelerate a lot on my car (step on it) I get a bad smell that comes into the interior. Happens every time and I can't figure out what it is or why it's doing it..? Any ideas..? TIA
Was thinking about doing this as well with my vhr37, The idle drop here and there at the stoplight. I like that you get the maintenance done early so that 100 buck changes turn into $$$$. Good video 👍🏾
VQkiller37 Thanks a lot! I would try this first, this usually solves rough idle problems. My idle is much smoother now that I did this cleaning. I have found that doing maintenance a little early can save you from big repair bills down the road.
awesome video man, thanks, but why did you change the hoses to the red silicon ones you have installed now? like whats the benefit and what was the brand? just curious as to if i should the same with my car.
Thanks for this video, it was very useful in cleaning my 2010 throttle bodies. It idled rough and high for about 5 minutes but everything is normal after that. I think it was the break cleaner burning off any how. Much easier job than I thought. Thanks again
Hey Alex your dyi are awesome as I have said before and thanks for doing them. So I followed this video for throttle body cleaning and the next morning I noticed a check engine light I tested and it was a p0507. Has this ever happened to you? _Update_ I found a video of how to reset the idle. It's not to bad, involves rapidly pressing the gas pedal and holding it while timing everything. You definitely want to watch the video while you're doing it or you'll screw the steps all up.
AlexKayRN well maybe I can gilt my girlfriend into getting me tools so I can start DIY. I'd wanna do my own oil changes then move to something like spark plugs and etc.
There ya go! You have to start small and work your way up. I remember when I first started working on cars, I was afraid to jack the car up and take a tire off. You will learn so much doing work yourself.
So I've never worked on a car before, but was just watching these videos before I take my car to a mechanic so I know exactly what they will be doing. I hate the feeling of not knowing if I'm being overcharged.. so anyway, I'm looking at these videos and am starting to wonder if some of these things I can't do myself? It looks interesting and fun to do, but I want to be realistic about it too. Thoughts?
Just do it man! Get a decent set of tools. I started in my early 20s working on my motorcycles and then on all my vehicles. Start learning now & you'll thank yourself later in life.
Great video. The job went perfectly. When in Neutral, my idle is perfect, and it's running smooth. BUT when in Drive- whether stopped or moving- it's running rough. It now shows "Check Engine," so I'll have the code checked soon. Do you have any other thoughts on it running rough with a little shaking?
Thanks for posting this. I am nit very handy but this was very interesting. I have a 2009 G37X with 170k, runs well but probably needs this done. Hesitant to go to the dealer
Great video! My G is about to hit 60k miles so it is not too far away that I have to do this. Btw, de we have to measure the gaps of the tips of the spark plugs to match the factory spec?
is there anything else necessary to do after cleaning the throttle bodies as goes for the ecu to re-learn it's idle and what not? I've read on certain forms that there is something special you need to do after opening and cleaning them, but couldn't find much more on it. did you just re connect the battery and let it idle to do so? my g is just about 60k miles and I want to clean them, but I'm hesitant with messing around with the electronic components of the car... great content as always so please keep it up!
The only time I've had to do the "relearn" was when I actually unplugged the TBs. In my experience when the battery is removed but they are left plugged in, I've had no problems. However, the dealer can usually perform a "relearn" if need be. Thanks for the support!
What brand of thread lock do you recommend? I’m familiar with the blue loctite, but your daps looked to be clear like petroleum jelly. Thanks for the fabulous explainer video.
Bro im addicted to watching your videos man!! One question. When your cleaning the throttle bodies I herd that its bad to touch the butterfly did you run into any problems after you got it all back together?
Awesome to hear, thank you! When I cleaned these, I gently opened the butterfly and cleaned all areas. When I cleaned both these, and my Z TBs, I disconnected the battery but left the TBs plugged in and didn't have an issue. The only time I had an issue was when I unplugged my Z TBs and had to do the relearn. After I did my G, I let the car idle for 15 minutes or so, drove it for about 15-20 minutes, and the idle was perfect. I know some people have issues with this but this technique has worked for me multiple times. Thanks for watching!
DeathDealaPRIME My car is 61k I did touch the butterfly. I also cleaned around the butterfly rim. When finished I noticed when I start my engine I had a high idle at around 2,100rpm. However, after letting it idle for about 15 minutes. I can tell by the sounds of idling and rpm dropping back to normal 600 - 800rpm. Throttle response was so much better.
Glad it worked out for you. It seems people have trouble when they disconnect the throttle bodies. I have always left mine plugged in and just removed the negative battery cable and have never had a problem with idle after.
Hey bro thanks for the video. I'm gonna clean my MAF sensors and TB's since I'm coming up on 30k and running the stillen Gen 3's so I'm sure I'll find some gunk in there. I see so many complaints and people who really fucked their idles up doing this. If you do a negative terminal disconnect, clean the parts just like you said, (without messing with the butterfly too much or intake manifold) there should be no issues when restarting the vehicle and letting it idle a few minutes, correct? Or is there something I'm missing? (Not sure why so many people screwed their idles up doing this, it seems straight forward). Much appreciated for the tips!!
Hey Alex! Love your videos so far! Anyway I just recently bought a 2007 G35x sedan with the 5 spd auto. My question is the car only has 29k miles, I know super low for 10 year old car, so I'm coming up for the 30k service Infiniti/Nissan recommends transmission fluid change, Coolant change, front and rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid change. Should I do all of that plus anything else on a 10 year old car. Old lady only changed the oil once a year and nothing else was done to it.
Thanks for watching! With a car that old, even though the miles are low, I would change all fluids and belts. Fluids don't do well when they sit for long periods of time so even though the car doesn't have a lot of miles, the fluids may have lost their integrity. Hope this helps!
Hi Alex, Thank you for making excellent, detailed videos, i've learned alot watching ! I have a question about cleaning the throttle bodies on the g, I noticed that you said not to disconnect, the throttle body but my question is, will it still affect the idle even if you disconnect the battery ?
Thanks for the kind words, glad I can help! In my experience, even if you disconnect the battery, you should leave the TBs plugged in. The only time I had an issue was when I disconnected them (even with the battery disconnected).
@@kova_motive what did you have to do to fix the issues after unplugging the TBs? I just did a plug change and unplugged the TBs for better access and I seem to have a rough idle at 1200rpm now. And also revs up a bit after I release throttle. Any solutions? Thank you
Ugh so much easier to get to those spark plugs than in my 3.5 altima, to those wanting to use throttle body clearer make sure you give it a nice long time to dry out as those wires in the MAF are pretty sensitive.
Wow!!! Your video was simply AWESOM and I learned a whole lot viewing it and it was so much help for my infinity G35, 2007. thank you so much my friend!! And happy New year to ya!!
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
My dad absolutely loves watching your videos. He only speaks Spanish but he fully understands the way you explain and is able to replicate. Thank you!
Wow! That is a testament to this guy's videos. He definitely did a good job!
Wow what a compliment.
saludos a mi suegro dianita
Klever EL507 ahuevo 😹
Good info. Thanks for sharing.
I have been an ASE master tech at an automotive dealership for 20 years. I would like to add to your comment about the ECU idle learn procedure: once you reconnect the battery, you should first make sure all the accessories are off, headlights,radio, and especially the A/C! Make sure the front tires are pointing straight ahead. Now, start the car up and let it idle. Allow the engine to reach “operating temperature.” This happens when the radiator cooling fans turn on. Keep letting the engine idle until the radiator cooling fans cycle on and off twice. This could take upwards of approximately 30 minutes. Then, your idle learn procedure is finished. You can even disconnect the battery and perform the above “idle learn procedure” if you have erratic idle problems, and you HAVE NOT done any tune up work.
When you made the comment about “not to disconnect the electronic throttle body connectors”, I don’t see why not. The car battery is already disconnected. There is no power going to them. I have disconnected those electrical connectors many, many times, even with the battery connected. It has never caused me any problems. But, just don’t have the ignition on at all while working the butterfly valves with your hands.
Just trying to spread some experience and knowledge. ✌️
Thank you so much for commenting!!! I am going right now to try this as I didn't do this the last 3 times my car battery died and I believe it to be the reason my car no longer idles at 700 rpm but drops down to 500 rpm when at a red light. It only occurs when in drive and goes back up to 700 rpm when I put it in park. I will update with results!
James Elliott what happened?
@@vetacoth nada.. I don't think I reset it correctly as the radio stations didn't reset nor did the seat configuration which always happens when my battery dies.
The g37 ecu leans to optimize itself after turning it om a few times, you are not Infiniti tech and clearly not read manual.
@@alexiocatan5602 could you help me with it? Could you put some detail, I would appreciate it.
Thank you very much for this video. Thanks to you I was able to change the spark plugs and thoroughly clean the throttle bodies, and saving me $300 (that's what my Infiniti dealership said it would cost to change the plugs, plus they lied and said they would have to remove the intake manifold to gain access to the plugs!) in the process. People were telling me that it would be too difficult for me to do it by myself because I'm not a mechanic although I do have basic automotive ability. I'm glad that I followed your video and was able to do it myself without any issues, and also have the satisfaction of doing the job myself. Also my Infiniti runs & idles a little smoother now with a slight increase in overall fuel economy! Thank you my friend.
@Chris Francelli
It's pretty ridiculous. Even Toyota stealerships are nutz. Quoted me $350+ to replace a $50 dollar fan I bought at O'Reilly's and replaced myself in a half hour.
Quoted me $314 the other day without the spark plugs of course. F that
@@jjwalker2011 they make money off peoples ignorance
My g25 goes to over 2000 on startup, but reduces Normal after a few seconds. Also can I just spray into the throttle body? Can I move the butterfly via cable like on my ford ?
So my G37 Journey sedan wouldn't start a few days ago. I tried and tried, it would crank but wouldn't start. I pressed on the pedal it started right up. It has been doing that every now and then or wouldn't start on the first crank. I knew it wasn't my battery or alternator so I did my research and figured I'd try this out. I didn't replace my spark plugs but cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensors was more than enough. One sensor was actually faced the wrong way. Some hex bolts were stripped but it was worth it. Anyone with the same problem with their G should try to see if this will help. This video made it a lot easier!
Just did mine at 95K miles, 2011 G37S, the car runs so much smoother now with far better throttle response and crisper transmission shifts !
Some of the plugs were in pretty tight and the threads were discolored like starting to bond to the cylinder threads, I put a dab of anti seize on the new plugs and I replaced the Spark Plug wire tubes.
The Old Denso Iridium plugs were gapped at .038, the new Denso plugs came at about .041.
When I finished I hooked up the battery Neg, started the motor, turn off all fans, radio etc. let it idle until the radiator fans came on two times, turn off. It was hunting for the new idle speed so drove it around some and now its right back to 650-700.
Thank's for the post!
Just wanted to stop in and say thank you! Just successfully cleaned my TB and MAF on my 2007 G35 (VQ35HR) with out a problem. It did idle a little high after cleaning but took it on a drive and after I gave it full throttle everything went back to normal! Better performance after cleaning!! My idle is back smooth and not hunting.. for those who are having problems you are doing something wrong and not sure what it is but unplug your negative battery cable and DONT unplug either of your TB.
Thanks for the support! Glad you were able to do this successfully!
After watching this video, I decided to get the deed done on my 07 G35. Will update the results once I am done. Thank you for your video, very good. Carry on. Cheers.
Update:
I completed the job yesterday and My G is running smoothly and idles as it should be.
I got told to be very brave to change the plugs and clean throttle body as people tend to go to the mechanics for that kid of work.
With the help of your detailed instructions, I pulled this off.
Thank you once again.
Great video!!! I changed the spark plugs and cleaned the mass flow sensors and throttle bodies without any issues on my G37. The throttle bodies were filthy - car has over 109k miles. The video made everything so incredibly easy. You The Man!
Awesome! Glad I could help out!
Just cleaned my throttle bodies and HOLY COW. So much more responsive. Thanks for the video! Getting UpRev tuning later this month. Can't wait!
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!!! I own a 2012 G37xs, and had rough idling. Even after I seafoamed her (my G37 is female 😜), she wasn't running as smoothly as she used to when I purchased her. Your video gave me the courage to perform this maintenance myself. I appreciate your attention to detail, along with your tips. Thanks for not cursing or chatting about irrelevant information. Most of all, thanks for saving me a ton of money. 😁 I have subscribed to your channel.
Glad I could help! Nice to hear you solved your issues!
I have a G37 2012 sport She’s also a girl. Lol Her name is Flip’d Whip. Any way what did you mean by “seafoamed”? What does this involve and what does it result in as far as performance?
@@biaguerra1914 it’s just a cleaning product called “Seaform” to clean the motor essentially. Should make it run like new.
Well done. Good coverage of the tasks without the time waste and distraction of extra jaw flap or antics. Commendable. Thank you.
THANK YOU! My car isn't idling rough anymore. I would always see the rpm drop to 400 or 500 but now it stays at 650 without any problem. I let my car idle but it was still weird so i drove it and it fixed that problem. Awesome video!
When you say your idle was 400-500rpm but now at 650 rpm. Are you referring to in park or in drive?
Best video yet, but I do need to know the size of the wrenches I’m gonna need for the autobody and the spark plugs. I have to buy this.
I’m finna do my G37 tomorrow PEOPLE LIKE U WHO SHARES TALENT ARE AMAZING 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Alex, just finished cleaning Throttle Bodies, MAS and did the EPS delete, on my 2011 Infiniti G37X. The videos are Great. One small thing you left out was how to reset the idle, after removing throttle bodies.
Umm, and how do you reset the idle? Ha-ha Or does Alex have a vid on that which I haven't located yet?
Just driving the vehicle normally for a few days will enable the ECU to relearn the idle. May use a tad bit more gas until it relearns but really no need to do the procedure if you can wait.
I just changed my plugs, cleaned the throttle bodies and MAF sensors and all is well! Actually this was way easier than I thought it would be! Thanks!
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Great video. Thanks for not doing it at night like other DIY car vids. I was able to change my plugs yesterday with no issues. I have over 200K miles and hope I can keep the car for years to come.
Well done with some good tips. My 2009 370Z now has 91K miles, so it's about time I take care of these tasks. The car is in great shape with clock-work oil changes (& especially with the new 6-speed tranny and rear diff), but I'm noticing a slight decrease in throttle response lately. I'm sure this will address that. Much appreciated!
Excellent video! Used to complete TB and MAF sensor cleaning on a '12 G37 sedan w 90K. The more extensions you have the better, its cramped at the rear of engine and the two rear plugs are the hardest of the job. Also, I paired this video with TB relearn procedure video from Motorvate DIY. Thank you for saving me hundreds of dollars.
Glad it helped!
There is actually a setting to reset the idle in the car which involves a series of steps pressing different buttons and pedal in an exact order. If your idle is erratic after doing this, then this other video I found explains the procedure. It worked for me when my idle wouldn't go back to normal (just search this title on TH-cam):
G37 & 370Z After Throttle Body Cleaning: Motorvate’s DIY Garage Ep.27
These are the steps:
1) Warm up engine to operating temp (go for a 10 min ride)
2) Turn off car
3) Turn off all electrical components
- A/C or Heat
- Audio
- Headlights
- Navigation Screen
- Etc
4) Turn car to ON position (engine off)
5) Wait 3 seconds then fully press the gas pedal 5 times
6) Wait 7 seconds then fully press and HOLD gas pedal for
10 seconds (until service engine light blinks)
7) Release pedal for 10 seconds (while light is still
blinking)
8) Press and hold pedal for 10 seconds again
9) Release pedal, press brake and start engine
Thanks for posting this!
holy fuck this is literally everything that i wanted to do in one video. thats amazing
Glad I could help!
Mike Solomon Exactly me as well, literally doing this on Saturday! Can't wait! Alex is the man😅
Bro, killer video. Especially for someone who is super inexperienced like myself. Doing this tomorrow.
ayesick how did it go? Do you recall how long it took you? Thanks!
Legend says he's still changing the spark plugs
I passed by his house and he’s still trying to disconnect the battery
Rumors are he was abducted by the Car gods for training.
I saw him on the moon chilling with some Aliens last night.
This vid helped me literally didn’t know nun bout changing a spark plug and you showed me and I did it thank you!!!
Hey thanks. Just tuned everything, watching your video. I even changed the pcv valves. Didn't think I could do it. U helped me get it done. 114k when tuned. Someone before me used autolite plugs..... horrible idea and performance. Only makes sense in the long run to spend more for quality parts. Spent a lot of time cleaning the throttle bodies. Big difference. I've subbed and will be watching ur vids to keep up with my '09 g37.
I really want to thank you for your G37 videos. I used your video specifically to perform my own tune up cleaned the MAF and throttle bodies! Im a chick and it felt so fulfilling to be able to do this on my own! I wouldn’t have been able to do it with out YOUR detailed video. All the others didn’t show enough plus you gave me extra tips on how to get it running efficiently. Im also going to change out my cabin air filter because the previous owners smoked. the smell has really gone away with time but it took a few months. I think the cabin air filter change will really clean it up. And your video there also is going to help me. When I changed my spark plugs one of them had oil on it. I have an extended warranty on the car so I’m going to take it in but what am I looking at? What type of problem do I have? I dont want to be taken advantage of at the dealership.
Just found your Vid. About to do the same cannot wait to do this right under 100k ATM. Plugs cost me just over 100 for 6 OEM and my friend at Infiniti said they would have charged me like 400 ish. Your video saved me some serious mulaa.
You make this look so much easier then it actually is! Getting the air duct off on the right side was a PAIN!
Fantastic video. Hints and tips were valuable. Back right (looking at engine) spark plug the worst (had to disconnect spark plug boot wiring) but was able to replace battery, 6 x plugs and clean throttle, airflow in ~2.5 hrs. Saved a bunch = $300+. Thank you!
Great advice about not removing the plug from the throttle body. G forums are full of people who did this, and are faced with idling issues. But PLEASE don’t put anti seize on spark plugs! It alters the torque value by up to 20 pounds, and can alter the operating temperature of the plug.
I just don’t work on my car to save money, the satisfaction of knowing I did it is as good as the money I save or don’t save.
I'm skeptical of mechanics, not all, is the reason I did it. Though it was actually fun doing this tune up. Fun and challenging.
Great video on how to change the plugs I'll just have to keep watching the video to change the plugs to make sure I'm doing it right
I myself own a 6spd 2013 sedan. Your videos are very informative and well presented. Thank you! keep it up!
Nice video man! I did my wife's 2010 G37x recently using your video guide. One thing I noticed was when I took out the old/original spark plugs they appeared to have been gapped a lot shorter than what the manufacturer recommends. Says 1.1mm for new plugs but the old ones were not even 1.0mm (after 40K miles). Either way the car is running much smoother after replacing the plugs and cleaning the throttle bodies and sensors. thanks buddy!
Thanks, just did it yesterday on G37x 2013, at 75k miles, should say, spark plugs were still quite good, throttle had some tar, cleaned, MAFS looked clean also. As a result I increased MPG to 25.2 from 21-22, tested on 3hr highway drive.
Ilia K , spark plugs was good huh? I have a 13 @ 54 or 56 k , and I only get 18mpg, it sit alot also because of my job. I'm going to clean the throttle and Mafs too. I know at my last oil change we did the cabin filter but not sure if we did my intake filters. I'll change them also, nice to know your getting that mpg, I use to get 23.
The repair shop nearby just quoted me $450 for plugs and air filters. No thanks. I'm not a noob at wrench turning but newer technology has it's tricks so I was hesitant to try it myself. Thanks to your video I'll get my parts and get to work.
Done. My car ran ok before but it was starting to get a little sluggish and minor hesitation now and then. Now it runs great and I don't have any codes! Total for parts was $185. Thanks!
Thanks man you saved me a lot of money! I was about to have a mechanic change my spark plugs but I saw your video and saw that I could do it myself.
Thank you so much for this video, you’re a really good explainer! You saved me a lot of money. I was able to replace my spark plugs and Ignition coils watching this.
Great video, I did it no problem. Saved at least $450 which is what I was quoted with a BS story about removing the manifolds
Nice. If I didn't watch this, I would have probably disconnected the wires on those throttle bodies. The plugs on my 370Z need replacing. This tuneup will be a big help!
I try to R/R spark plugs earlier than the 100K interval but not always for the reason you think and the logic is possibly more obscure than you think.
Yes changing them early can make the engine run more efficient and piece of mind of a known starting point for future wear.
The technique is the same but my logic is simply this.
For the 100K + factory intervals think about this for a second. Depending on how many miles you put on a year that could take a while. I realize the technology has come a long way over the years but I still think back of the horror stories I hear about plugs breaking during removal due to excessive heat/cold cycles over the years and to be honest for a vehicle that is still what I consider reasonably accessible at least by today’s engine design standards. For my piece of mind it is worth changing earlier. Maybe not the 20/35/3K of the older days but probably 50/75K or somewhere in that time frame.
I changed the plugs on a 2012 M37 and again reasonably accessible especially compared to modern competitors engine. it appears that the layout and procedure is fairly common for most of not all VQ37 series engines....Infiniti at least RWD/AWD. I will not even begin to guess the difficulty level of the Nissan Front Wheel Drive engines especially the rear bank.
Poster makes a VERY GOOD point about the plugs. This is the first engine I have changed plugs with the narrower body. To me one of the potential weak points but make sure you use Firm but steady pressure when removing the plugs. When the initial torque breaks it will make a snap and get your attention. I was about 99% sure I broke the plug in half. I continued to unthread the plug and was totally expecting to pull up half of a plug. About one of the longest five seconds of my life. It came out whole and that being the first time I had seen how thin the plugs were got me anxious. Once the first came out the rest were easy just remember NO Impact tools at least not to break the torque, yes I know shops do it but they know the risks too and I am sure they get bitten on that occasionally.
Auto Zone sells a Spark Pug Socket that is slightly different than normal. This socket has the rubber insulator in the socket and the extension “6” I believe is built into the socket to avoid the risk of the socket coming off the extension bar. About $15 but they have made very quick work of plug removal and replacement over the years. The 5/8” one I got in 2009 worked for about seven different vehicles and was perfect up until Infiniti went to the narrower plug.
This is one of those PAY ATTENTION to the torque specs and follow to the letter. The proper torque value in each cylinder is way more critical than the sequence of torque/load distribution like a valve cover, cylinder head or intake manifold etc...
Another trick I tought myself over the years and partially OCD partially military training in attention to detail.
I lay the new plugs out still in the box. After I remove one pig at a time from the box and check Gap.....yes check gap. They can get bumped and come out of gap during shipping so as they say........”Trust but Verify” and it only takes a few extra seconds per plus. After the Anti Seize and the new plug is ready for installation. I mark the cylinder # on the box and make a uninterrupted transfer of the old plug to the box and the new plug to the cylinder. CLl me d school but keep the cylinder spark plug well open as little as possible. Torque and the. The coil pack. Don’t forget the Die-Electric grease on the top of the plug and in my case a small dab around the coil pack body near the top of the plug well.
The logic for me at least is I can get the new plugs in and complete the task but by marking the box and knowing what cylinder that plug came from I can review and compare the plugs against a reference burn chart later. Marking the cylinder also helps isolate any potential problem plugs to a specific cylinder if further attention is needed.
If all the plugs are worn normally the. The old plugs go to the trash.
As another point. Keep the new plugs ready. Personally if your going through all the work to remove the plug, might as well replace them you have to put plugs back in anyway whether old or new.
If you think plugs maybe questionable remove and inspect one random plug. I would say #1 at least for the VQ37 engine since for me at least the easiest to access and the most critical plug for engine performance.
One more touch of OCD but I have taken a color contrasting permanent marker (Sharpie) and mark the top of the coil pack with the cylinder #....again for future reference.
Good as time as any to check all the vacuum lines, electrical connectors and other areas for leaks and dry rot. Personally I inspect get a good general visual inspection of the work are and a 48” circle around the work area. That usually covers pretty much the entire engine compartment.
You might find more work but also might catch a future repair problem earlier.
Good video. Did these steps for the throttle body and MAF. Car sounds like it has a deeper growl.
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Just throwing in I disconnected the clips to the throttle bodies before. Just disconnect the battery for like 5 to 10 minutes. Hit that brake pedal twice for a couple discharges. Plug the battery. Back in. And then let it relearn idle like you said before driving off. Also good to leave that disconnected while doing headers and test pipes lol
I use the coil pack to take out the spark plug once they are loose
Genius
Good thinking that could help somebody out
Another good video - I'm using this an your serptentine belt replacement video this weekend to work on my '08 G35XS. I'm going to; replace the serpentine belt, change the spark plugs and clean the throttle bodies and Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensors- a good overall tuneup. Very well done videos, very helpful and thanks for taking the time to share with others!
Glad I could help and thanks for the compliments. Good luck with our tune up.
Great video! Very helpful. One thing I wanna point is that regarding cleaning the throttle bodies, the Infiniti Service Manual does NOT say to disconnect the battery. I'm on the fence as whether I will disconnect it or not. But I'm only going to clean the TBs and the MAF sensors, will replace the spark plugs at a later time. Just FYI.
Thanks! It has become a habit for me to disconnect the battery whenever working with electrical components. Also, it is something you want to do anyway to reset the ECU if you are cleaning the sensors and throttle bodies. But, guess you can do it either way! Good luck with your maintenance!
You really should disconnect the negative terminal when you work on the engine's electrical components.
Frank scouring pads are really good and efficient if your throttle bodies have a thick layer of carbon sludge
thank you so much brother! followed your steps and changed the plugs on my G for the first time myself. great instructions.. she runs much much better. thanks again 🙏🏼
I like doing spark plugs. Its really great for placebo effect too. Id say at least 20 hp and 20 torque.
Thanks for this video man, now I can safely and carefully get the job done myself 🙏🏽
Thank you so much this is so much easier to replace the spark plugs. On my Lexus is250 08 I had to take apart the intake manifold
My man your content was nice and smooth, informative..thank you for taking the time to video
If you finish and the idle sounds like a Rotary check your maf connections, learned this today
gotta do this to change my coilpacks, didn't think it'd be this easy at all. dope video my dude
Danny Garrett you don’t have coilpacks.
Good sound steps and theory on getting basic maintenance items being taken care of without question. Since you are basically...”In the neighborhood”.....can you change the PCV valve and along those lines is there one central PCV valve or one for each throttle body?
Another trick I learned....well actually taught myself. When removing the plugs I do one cylinder at a time. When the new plug goes in, I immediately install the d plug into the box of the new one. I mark each box with the cylinder number and can review the plug later at my leisure. I can get the new plugs in then after reviewing the old plugs I can verify even and normal wear patterns and if there is for some reason the wear/burn pattern is abnormal then I can isolate to that particular cylinder for further troubleshooting.
What technology are the OEM Denso plugs, Copper, Platinum Double Platinum, Iridium etc....?
Thanks for the walkthrough. I was concerned about the PCV valve hose when I attempted my plugs. You were a great help
Great video! It's what I needed to do my upcoming tune up!👏🏽
I have a question for you that you may have the answer to. When I accelerate a lot on my car (step on it) I get a bad smell that comes into the interior. Happens every time and I can't figure out what it is or why it's doing it..? Any ideas..? TIA
Was thinking about doing this as well with my vhr37, The idle drop here and there at the stoplight. I like that you get the maintenance done early so that 100 buck changes turn into $$$$. Good video 👍🏾
VQkiller37 Thanks a lot! I would try this first, this usually solves rough idle problems. My idle is much smoother now that I did this cleaning. I have found that doing maintenance a little early can save you from big repair bills down the road.
VQkiller37 A fuel system cleaning service from an Infiniti dealer will help that go away.
Don't forget to plug your throttle body back in. I learned that the hard way today.
I wouldn't recommend unplugging it. That's when most people run into problems.
Yeah me neither. I know that now. Live and learn though.
awesome video man, thanks, but why did you change the hoses to the red silicon ones you have installed now? like whats the benefit and what was the brand? just curious as to if i should the same with my car.
Thanks for this video, it was very useful in cleaning my 2010 throttle bodies. It idled rough and high for about 5 minutes but everything is normal after that. I think it was the break cleaner burning off any how. Much easier job than I thought. Thanks again
Hey Alex your dyi are awesome as I have said before and thanks for doing them. So I followed this video for throttle body cleaning and the next morning I noticed a check engine light I tested and it was a p0507. Has this ever happened to you? _Update_ I found a video of how to reset the idle. It's not to bad, involves rapidly pressing the gas pedal and holding it while timing everything. You definitely want to watch the video while you're doing it or you'll screw the steps all up.
Thanks to your video, I was able to do this tune up on my G37S. Appreciate your step by step instructions
Amazing video thank you..can you tell me the Exact plugs and wires
Well described video, my g is approaching 84k. Think it's time for me to change the spark plugs & coils......thanks!
awesome video! you make me want my own garage to try these things Alex.
TeVan Grant Glad I can provide some inspiration. This can even be done with simple tools in a driveway/parking lot to start. Thanks for watching!
AlexKayRN well maybe I can gilt my girlfriend into getting me tools so I can start DIY. I'd wanna do my own oil changes then move to something like spark plugs and etc.
There ya go! You have to start small and work your way up. I remember when I first started working on cars, I was afraid to jack the car up and take a tire off. You will learn so much doing work yourself.
Best howto for g37 spark plugs!
Thanks a lot!
Just did this today, video is absolutely on point. 🔥🙏🏾
I know this is an old vid but great job!
you make it seem so easy lol, my bf doesn’t want to help me change them so I’m doing it myself. 🤞🏽 lol wish me luck 😂
So I've never worked on a car before, but was just watching these videos before I take my car to a mechanic so I know exactly what they will be doing. I hate the feeling of not knowing if I'm being overcharged.. so anyway, I'm looking at these videos and am starting to wonder if some of these things I can't do myself? It looks interesting and fun to do, but I want to be realistic about it too. Thoughts?
Just do it man! Get a decent set of tools. I started in my early 20s working on my motorcycles and then on all my vehicles. Start learning now & you'll thank yourself later in life.
This video gave me more confidence on doing it myself , thank you so much !
Great video. The job went perfectly. When in Neutral, my idle is perfect, and it's running smooth. BUT when in Drive- whether stopped or moving- it's running rough. It now shows "Check Engine," so I'll have the code checked soon. Do you have any other thoughts on it running rough with a little shaking?
You rock dude! So happy i came across this video.. Made my tune up that much easier... Hope all is well in the new house and all that man! Cheers!
Thanks for posting this. I am nit very handy but this was very interesting. I have a 2009 G37X with 170k, runs well but probably needs this done. Hesitant to go to the dealer
Great video - thank you so much! Just wondering what you gapped the spark plugs at? Sorry if I missed you saying that in your video.
betting they were pre-gapped
Very well done. taking your time to explain what you did. I also own a G-37X and I cant wait to work on mine.
Thank you. I try to be as thorough as I can.
U make the best videos. Now i can do my plugs and stuff. Are those hoses better than a say k& n system?
Great video! Recently bought a G and wanted to do this type of maintenance Forsure!
thanks so much my brother usually does this for me you made it simpler to do I'm gonna change them next week !
Glad I can help! Thanks for watching!
Great video! My G is about to hit 60k miles so it is not too far away that I have to do this. Btw, de we have to measure the gaps of the tips of the spark plugs to match the factory spec?
is there anything else necessary to do after cleaning the throttle bodies as goes for the ecu to re-learn it's idle and what not? I've read on certain forms that there is something special you need to do after opening and cleaning them, but couldn't find much more on it. did you just re connect the battery and let it idle to do so? my g is just about 60k miles and I want to clean them, but I'm hesitant with messing around with the electronic components of the car... great content as always so please keep it up!
The only time I've had to do the "relearn" was when I actually unplugged the TBs. In my experience when the battery is removed but they are left plugged in, I've had no problems. However, the dealer can usually perform a "relearn" if need be. Thanks for the support!
Do you need the magnet to pull the spark plugs out?
Great video! Thanks.
You could always get a spark plug socket with the rubber insert but I didn't have one that size so I had to resort to the magnet.
What brand of thread lock do you recommend? I’m familiar with the blue loctite, but your daps looked to be clear like petroleum jelly. Thanks for the fabulous explainer video.
Thanks for the support. Don't use thread lock on spark plugs. I use anti seize. There are a few brands that make it but I believe mine is by permatex
So this is basically the same for my 2007 g35 sedan "vq35hr".
PWAT-GEETHUR pretty much
Manual?
Ya
Bro im addicted to watching your videos man!! One question. When your cleaning the throttle bodies I herd that its bad to touch the butterfly did you run into any problems after you got it all back together?
Awesome to hear, thank you! When I cleaned these, I gently opened the butterfly and cleaned all areas. When I cleaned both these, and my Z TBs, I disconnected the battery but left the TBs plugged in and didn't have an issue. The only time I had an issue was when I unplugged my Z TBs and had to do the relearn. After I did my G, I let the car idle for 15 minutes or so, drove it for about 15-20 minutes, and the idle was perfect. I know some people have issues with this but this technique has worked for me multiple times. Thanks for watching!
DeathDealaPRIME My car is 61k I did touch the butterfly. I also cleaned around the butterfly rim. When finished I noticed when I start my engine I had a high idle at around 2,100rpm. However, after letting it idle for about 15 minutes. I can tell by the sounds of idling and rpm dropping back to normal 600 - 800rpm. Throttle response was so much better.
Glad it worked out for you. It seems people have trouble when they disconnect the throttle bodies. I have always left mine plugged in and just removed the negative battery cable and have never had a problem with idle after.
Hey bro thanks for the video. I'm gonna clean my MAF sensors and TB's since I'm coming up on 30k and running the stillen Gen 3's so I'm sure I'll find some gunk in there. I see so many complaints and people who really fucked their idles up doing this. If you do a negative terminal disconnect, clean the parts just like you said, (without messing with the butterfly too much or intake manifold) there should be no issues when restarting the vehicle and letting it idle a few minutes, correct? Or is there something I'm missing? (Not sure why so many people screwed their idles up doing this, it seems straight forward). Much appreciated for the tips!!
Such a detailed video. Thank you so much! Great work
The thin wall spark plug socket is nice to have otherwise you gotta use a regular socket and magnet wand
Hey Alex! Love your videos so far! Anyway I just recently bought a 2007 G35x sedan with the 5 spd auto. My question is the car only has 29k miles, I know super low for 10 year old car, so I'm coming up for the 30k service Infiniti/Nissan recommends transmission fluid change, Coolant change, front and rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid change. Should I do all of that plus anything else on a 10 year old car. Old lady only changed the oil once a year and nothing else was done to it.
Thanks for watching! With a car that old, even though the miles are low, I would change all fluids and belts. Fluids don't do well when they sit for long periods of time so even though the car doesn't have a lot of miles, the fluids may have lost their integrity. Hope this helps!
Just curious , do the OEM Denso plugs come pre-gapped? I don’t remember seeing you gapping the spark plugs.
Awesome video, quick question how do you like those intake tubes? I'm thinking of changing mines just don't know if to go with hps or z1
Thank you my brother. On point and straight forward. GOD Bless You🙏
Hi Alex, Thank you for making excellent, detailed videos, i've learned alot watching ! I have a question about cleaning the throttle bodies on the g, I noticed that you said not to disconnect, the throttle body but my question is, will it still affect the idle even if you disconnect the battery ?
Thanks for the kind words, glad I can help! In my experience, even if you disconnect the battery, you should leave the TBs plugged in. The only time I had an issue was when I disconnected them (even with the battery disconnected).
@@kova_motive what did you have to do to fix the issues after unplugging the TBs? I just did a plug change and unplugged the TBs for better access and I seem to have a rough idle at 1200rpm now. And also revs up a bit after I release throttle. Any solutions? Thank you
Good work. At least the infiniti it isn't as bad as removing the intake plenum like on Lexus...
Great video.. im curious what RN stands for
Mike Doria right now
Ugh so much easier to get to those spark plugs than in my 3.5 altima, to those wanting to use throttle body clearer make sure you give it a nice long time to dry out as
those wires in the MAF are pretty sensitive.
Good point. Luckily the MAF cleaner and TB cleaner evaporates fairly quickly and dries in no time. Thanks for the input.
Same DIY for an 08 G35xs VQ36HR? Going to do it myself as the dealership quoted $550 CAD for new plugs.
Faraz Shah yes same steps
I use a 14 for the sparks and use the oil to remove it after loosening it.
Great video, just did Throttle Bodies And MAF Sensors my self, thanks!
viciousocean Awesome! Glad I could help!
Got it done. Thanks for the help!
Wow!!! Your video was simply AWESOM and I learned a whole lot viewing it and it was so much help for my infinity G35, 2007. thank you so much my friend!! And happy New year to ya!!