Love the way you put information into words even an ol geezer like myself can follow. This video is approaching the 2 year mark yet the information is just as timely and informative as the day you made it. I went a slightly different route. I couldn't afford a second lathe to set up for buffing and didn't want to spend time swapping out the pen mandrel so I bought a stand alone dedicated buffer. I was worried I would forever be changing wheels so I could finish up with carnuba wax. After watching this video and listening to what you said I think I will stay with just the 2 wheels using Triple E and White Diamond. At least for pens. Maybe when my interest turns to other objects I will add the carnauba. THANK YOU for saving me the time and money I was spending on micro mesh. I was just never really satisfied with the end results, especially when I lit up the blank with a good light. Looking forward to seeing the end results with my buffer. Next stop is to get a good respirator. I am sure my lungs will thank me ;)
I'm glad that it helped out John! I had the same feelings about micro mesh, the results were really inconsistent for me too. Not a bad idea having a buffer set up, it took me years to even try buffing out because I didn't want to have to set it up on the lathe each time. Glad I finally tried it out though, getting far better and more consistent results than I did with any other method I've tried. Check out my video on polishing Alumilite as well, I got pens down to 6 steps: th-cam.com/video/3hGf8qCdCag/w-d-xo.html
Seriously! I e been thinking it’s me! It’s my eyes! I can’t see! I’m m making small jewelry and my arm is killing me from sanding! I get up the end…and there’s the dang scratch! I’m going to check this out! Thanks for the share! 🙏🏼
Another good vid Zac. I have had the Beal system for years and use in on my slow grinder to do small wooden projects and really like the results. The only two issues I have with it are it is constantly filling the air with cotton fuzz from the wheels(respirator needed) and that it will pull things out of my hand if they are small and not round if I am not careful. Never used it on plastic but I like the look on wood. JimE
+Jim E Thanks Jim. Did you hit your wheels with sandpaper backed with a board? That helped the fuzzies quite a bit for me, doesn't really put off too much fuzz any more. I would recommend using a mask of some sort though with it, don't want to be breathing the abrasive dust. Give it a whirl with acrylics, I think you'll like the results :-)
Thank you for all your videos. I have been making shaving brushes for a while. Wanted to get into resin casting to make my own blanks, your videos made it very easy.
Thanks so much for letting me know! I'm glad they were helpful for you, and happy to hear that you jumped into resin casting. It's so much fun and gives you the freedom to craft blanks exactly how you want them! Hope to see some of your work sometime =D
Great video. I actually got this buffing system when I started turning pens. I fully agree that it is much faster and easier than using micro mesh. I also use the system on wood pens that have CA finish.
+Tom Doe Thanks for the feedback Tom. I'm hearing from quite a few people on Facebook who are using buffing as well and love it. I guess it's just one of those things that people don't mention much, but I think it deserves more mentions for the new pen turners starting out. One question for you, I've been asked if I would do anything different when buffing CA (or other) finishes. I don't have much experience doing CA finishes with the buffing system but would assume it is pretty much the same. I'd love to hear your thoughts on that.
I am No CA glue expert for wood pens but what works for me is to sand to 1500 then use about 6 coats of thin CA. I don't always use the accelerator. It is slower without the accelerator but the results seem better. Drop back to 600 and sand to 1500 again. Move to the buffing wheel following a similar method to yours. The results are very satisfying. I don't sell pens but those on my Christmas list were very happy with the pens they got.
+Tom Doe I haven't done much buffing with CA finishes yet, but I'm excited to try it out. Your method is pretty close to what I would do too. I'm hoping that buffing will be more efficient/consistent with CA finishes too.
Hi Zac I have the Beall buffing system and never thought to use it on pens. I use it on bowls. Gonna fire it tomorrow to see what I get. I micro mesh to 12000, then hit it with head light scratch remover then to a blue rouge buffing wheel. Then put it back on the lathe on apply the museum grade wax. Lots of work lol. I use an old pen mandrel with plastic bushings to do it all. Thanks for sharing your experience with this. It looks like it will save me some time.
I hope it helps out a bit. I used to spend hours on sanding and polishing before I started using the buffing wheels. I always had problems getting every last scratch out using other methods, and it was never consistent. As long as you are diligent with the first 4 grits and make sure to get all the scratches out from the previous grit, I think you'll find this method a bit quicker and pretty reliable too
I tried this today - July 25, 2021.. It works very well and very quickly. The good thing about my system is that I do not have the long wheel. I have to remove one and replace it with the next. However, it is so quick it matters little and I have a lot of room on both sides. I also have three different sizes of wheels.
Looks like I should be able to save some time with this set up. Like you I'm currently using the micro mesh to 12000 grit so this should save some steps. Thanks for sharing your set up Zac looks good.
+Tracy Williams I'm loving this system! I'm still playing around with what grit of MM to stop at, but it seems that 2-4 grits in is the sweet spot. I hope that this can be helpful to others, and I'm excited to hear some feedback from others who try it out.
Could you not use a tube insertion tool to hold the pen? Seems like it would work and you could always turn it around to get the other end and never have to actually hold it in your hand.
Lots of great info on this system. One thing I see is that wax at the end,could that help with the uv fade in pr blanks. Second is the eee seems to be better in the long run ...or multiple blanks to do... especially for someone doing many at one time...and we all know time is money....this system is on my buy it list....thanks Zac. ..
+Robert Evans Thanks Robert! Yeah, it might give you a little fade protection, not a ton but it should help out a bit. I'm getting quite a few people on Facebook coming out of the proverbial woodwork saying that they are using buffing in their polishing schedules too. Seems like it's one of those subjects that not too many people talk about, but do use and get good results with. I don't think that you will be disappointed with a buffing setup.
Very informative well done video. You say what you know, demonstrate what you do, and lead people to understand another way to polish with a step system that give a very good result. Tip from a teacher: you do not need to apologize for the system or decisions you chose to make in refining your process. I'm sure the first violins from Stradivarius were not up to the standards of his final instruments. Thanks for the video and look forward to your next project/process/product. - Annie
+SuperYtviewer Thanks Annie!! I appreciate the tips. I always hope to share the best info possible and just want to make sure that I'm honest about how much knowledge or experience I have when I'm sharing processes. I definitely will have updates along the way on this one as I learn more.
I have one and it gets stuck in the headstock every time I use it. Ever since the very first time. I have to beat it out. Have you experienced that at all?
Great video. I have been considering the Beall system, or a homemade version of the same for a while. I agree that the wet sanding system is a pain. I think there are coarser grits that can be used earlier which I why I was contemplating making my own setup. Thinking about getting an inexpensive motor with some pillow blocks and pulley's that would gear down the speed to the 1000-1200rpm range. Also, I would like to clarify the 15 minutes you stated was for a single section of a pen per wheel? I would think less for the carnauba wax wheel.
+David Lankford Yeah, I think you could get a homemade setup working great for it. Yeah, the times I mentioned weren't very clear, and to be honest I never really timed it. I'd say that I spend about 10 minutes on the Tripoly wheel, 3-5 on the White Diamond, and hit it with the wax really quick, 1-2 minutes or so. It's pretty quick. The main variable is how many scratches you have to take out with the Tripoly wheel. The higher you go with micro mesh, the less time you have to spend on the Tripoly. After a few more tests, I think that going up to the 3rd, maybe 4th grit of micro mesh may be about the sweet spot. The last couple times I went up to the 4th grit, and I sped through the Tripoly in only a few minutes. I plan to do more testing using only black acrylic, that should really put it to the test. I'll be doing an update after I get some more time with it and should have some better numbers and suggestions on a sanding/buffing schedule.
Thank you Zac, I was just wondering if you could use this system on a finished (varnished) wood blank? And what is the proper speed to run for each wheel?
Yeah, buffing works great on finishes too. I'd probably keep it between 800 and 1200 for finishes. Pretty much the same speeds as I use for alumilite blanks. The faster the speed, the stiffer the wheel and more aggressive it will be.
Hey Zac love your videos, thanks for sharing. Question on the Beale buffing system. When you have a blank or stopper with both wood and alumni lite, do you do a super glue finish and then buff or do you skip the super glue all together? I'm looking at making some bottle stoppers with both wood and resin and should get my buffing system soon so not sure what is best. Thanks for any advice. Mike
+Mike Clark I've done it both ways, and both look pretty good. I'd recommend putting the finish on if the wood is not stabilized to add some protection and block moisture. Going with the CA finish will result in a slightly glossier and even sheen across the whole blank. Buffing without CA is slightly less glossy but still produces a pretty decent sheen on the wood, and you get to skip the CA finishing steps. I think it can be a personal preference which looks better. Just buffing will provide a closer to the wood finish, some people prefer that. Going with the CA will put an obvious layer between you and the wood, but will offer more protection and really shine. You might need to do a couple tests to compare for yourself and see which you prefer. In general, I think a CA finish gives it that nice final touch and to me looks a tad bit classier if you like glossy finishes.
+Mike Clark I got caught up in answering your question, and I totally forgot to thank you for the kind words! Thank you!! I'm glad you're enjoying the videos :-)
Hey Zack I have a buffing wheel and I cast alumilute white urethane resin and wondered which compound stick do you use on the Aluma light resin to buff to a nice shine? there's a white bar a rouge there's green there's black there's blue really confused please help.
I'm using the Beall buffing system, and it comes with a Triple E bar that is reddish color, and a White Diamond bar that is white. Those two have been working good for me once I get the blanks sanded up to 1350 grit with the polishing papers. Make sure to get all the previous grit scratches out on each step of sanding, and maybe test out different speeds with the buffing wheel if you aren't getting a high polish
Zack, I just bought this system. I have polished 5 pens on it so far and have found that the wax wheel actually dulls the shine compared to the white diamonds wheel. Any idea as to what I am doing wrong? Not long enough on the wax or not enough wax? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hey Jim, I actually don't recommend using the wax wheel on pens, it doesn't produce any noticeable difference and the wax will end up breaking down and dulling fast with all the handling pens get. I'm guessing that you might have used a little too much wax perhaps you your speed was set too high or maybe too low even. I'm not entirely sure what was causing it to dull after the White Diamond wheel
Zach, me either. I even tried a few different test pieces, just to test different times on the wheel and such. So.... I will just use 2 out of the 3 wheels and call it a draw om the Carnuba wax. Maybe one day I will get into turning things other than pens. Keep up the excellent videos Zach. We appreciate it.
Nice video. I noticed on your bench you had a bottle of Novus #2. How does this system compare with using Novus #2? I have finished acrylic pens several ways using a pen mandrel. I typically use Abranet thru 400 grit. Then sometimes I micro mesh to 12000 and then finish with Novus #2 and Novus #1 using a paper towel hand gripped at about 1500 RPM. It seemed that the Novus #2 & #1 made the finish "pop" more. I have also just used Novus #2 and Novus #1 after 400 Abranet and found the finish to be about the same as using the Micro Mesh/Novus #2&1 but took a lot less time. Your thoughts... Thanks Much!
I prefer using buffing wheels over plastic polish myself. I get far more consistent results and the blanks turn out shinier too. I go through the steps I take for sanding and polishing in this video: th-cam.com/video/3hGf8qCdCag/w-d-xo.html
Zac another very informative video! Thanks for sharing. I've also played around with the buffing system. Have you tried or heard of the blue abrasive? Dan Pompe recommends it for acrylic. I would love for someone to real down the abrasive grit comparisons of the different colors. Thanks again for all you do.
+Jim Nottingham Thanks Jim, I'm really glad it was helpful for you. I have seen the blue buffing compound, but I'm not sure what grit it is. I believe it is a high gloss rouge, and I would guess it is somewhere near the White Diamond grit level, possibly higher. If I can find out more, I'll definitely add that to an update video I do on buffing in the future.
+Luis Figueroa I have turned some buffalo horn for a razor handle before. Have some deer antler and a corn cob blank sitting in the shop too, just haven't gotten around to turning it yet. Time spent on the lathe is usually testing new blank designs, so I don't usually get around to doing other types of projects as often as I'd like to.
Hey there Zac, did you get the 3 wheels already assembled in series, or did you get the 3 separate wheels and join them yourself? If you joined them yourself how do you attach the system to the headstock?
Hey Andrew, they all come in a set with the mandrel. I have a link to it on my "tools I use" page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/ The mandrel has a #2 Morse taper on it, it's a great setup!
Zac, I recently purchased the Beall system repackaged for Peachtree Woodworking, and hope to install it today. I've read a few reviews that indicate that the MT2, which is threaded on this kit for some reason, may damage the headstock's MT2 receiver. Have you had, or heard of, any issues with this ? Thanks !
Ha Zac thanks for the video on the sand paper or the mesh what is it called and where do I get it and also the sand paper u use instead of the micro mesh I for got to write in down old age! great job!! Larry
Thanks Larry, glad you found it helpful =D I have links to both the Abranet sandpaper and the polishing papers on my "Tools I Use" page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/ Lots of other links to casting and turning supplies I use there too
You’ve got it backwards....wheel 3 that uses carnuba wax is flannel....the centre wheel is a mix of linen and flannel and the first wheel is linen which uses Tripoli. 😉
Zac are you coming to our Mid Ohio Valley Penturners Next Month ??? We would really like to see you this far East so we can meet you in person and have a GREAT time !!!
+Xyienced Thanks! I am really enjoying it and getting fantastic results. I'm actually surprised I don't hear more people using buffing as a final step.
+Zac Higgins hi Zac. The problem is that the wax after a while will give a dull finish to the material and you will need to buff it again pretty soon and lot of people don't like that. That's why most of the people avoid wax. But you can finish the piece for example with shellac, ca, etc. and then go through the first two wheels or just on the second one.
+Stefano Bastianelli Thanks for letting me know about the wax. I'll keep an eye on the ones I've buffed hit with wax and see how I feel about them over time.
+Kwstas Antwniou Thanks Kwstas, let me know if you try buffing out. I've been getting such good results, I'd love to hear other people's experience with it.
I use mine but never use the carnauba wax. I have also got careless and had a pen blank go past my head at warp speed. The first couple of times you use it the fringes and strings coming off drive you crazy. I make brass key fobs with my CNC machine and use this system to shine the brass also.
Yeah, you have to watch out, if you lose your grip the workpiece will go flying! I've stopped using the wax wheel too for pens, but for wood it works pretty well. It helps to hit the brand new wheels with a piece of sandpaper backed up by some wood. Cleans out some of the frizzies.
+Braxton Wirthlin Thanks! I really hope it helps others out, it's really made the polishing process a lot more consistent for me. Not sure what my deal was, but it would take me forever to get a blank scratch free with wet sanding and plastic polishes.
+Howard Springsteen Yeah I know, and I actually debated adding it but decided not to. The blank that I buffed in the video had already been buffed, so I couldn't show a before and after shot. That's something I plan to include when I do an update video.
Just leave the blank on the pen mandrel you turned it on. Take the whole mandrel out insert the buffer in the lathe and buff the blank while holding the pen mandrel.
+Gene Ilten Heck yeah!! I love that little Comet... Although I have to be honest, I'm really looking hard at the DVR models. Love to have one of each some day :-)
+Gene Ilten I stepped up to the Comet from a Shopsmith myself! I'm much happier with the Comet, could never get the tailstock lined up or tightened right on the SS. I love those Robust lathes too. Might be overkill for pens, but I've never shied away from overkill :)
+Robbie Vigil No doubt!! That's actually the reason I never really tried buffing until recently, just being lazy about having to set my lathe up with it. I usually just get a bunch of pens sanded up before hooking up the buffing wheels now, then I get all them buffed in one shot while I have it set up. Down the road, I really hope to have a dedicated buffing area set up too, that would be sweet!
Thank you for making this video! You broke it down so well it’s easy to follow and understand! I’m can’t wait to try it out tomorrow!
Again thank you!
Love the way you put information into words even an ol geezer like myself can follow. This video is approaching the 2 year mark yet the information is just as timely and informative as the day you made it. I went a slightly different route. I couldn't afford a second lathe to set up for buffing and didn't want to spend time swapping out the pen mandrel so I bought a stand alone dedicated buffer. I was worried I would forever be changing wheels so I could finish up with carnuba wax. After watching this video and listening to what you said I think I will stay with just the 2 wheels using Triple E and White Diamond. At least for pens. Maybe when my interest turns to other objects I will add the carnauba. THANK YOU for saving me the time and money I was spending on micro mesh. I was just never really satisfied with the end results, especially when I lit up the blank with a good light. Looking forward to seeing the end results with my buffer. Next stop is to get a good respirator. I am sure my lungs will thank me ;)
I'm glad that it helped out John! I had the same feelings about micro mesh, the results were really inconsistent for me too. Not a bad idea having a buffer set up, it took me years to even try buffing out because I didn't want to have to set it up on the lathe each time. Glad I finally tried it out though, getting far better and more consistent results than I did with any other method I've tried. Check out my video on polishing Alumilite as well, I got pens down to 6 steps: th-cam.com/video/3hGf8qCdCag/w-d-xo.html
Seriously! I e been thinking it’s me! It’s my eyes! I can’t see!
I’m m making small jewelry and my arm is killing me from sanding! I get up the end…and there’s the dang scratch!
I’m going to check this out! Thanks for the share! 🙏🏼
I ve found leaving the blank on the pen mandrel provides plenty of grip to hold and turn the blanks.
Another good vid Zac.
I have had the Beal system for years and use in on my slow grinder to do small wooden projects and really like the results. The only two issues I have with it are it is constantly filling the air with cotton fuzz from the wheels(respirator needed) and that it will pull things out of my hand if they are small and not round if I am not careful.
Never used it on plastic but I like the look on wood. JimE
+Jim E Thanks Jim. Did you hit your wheels with sandpaper backed with a board? That helped the fuzzies quite a bit for me, doesn't really put off too much fuzz any more. I would recommend using a mask of some sort though with it, don't want to be breathing the abrasive dust. Give it a whirl with acrylics, I think you'll like the results :-)
Thank you for all your videos. I have been making shaving brushes for a while. Wanted to get into resin casting to make my own blanks, your videos made it very easy.
Thanks so much for letting me know! I'm glad they were helpful for you, and happy to hear that you jumped into resin casting. It's so much fun and gives you the freedom to craft blanks exactly how you want them! Hope to see some of your work sometime =D
Great video. I actually got this buffing system when I started turning pens. I fully agree that it is much faster and easier than using micro mesh. I also use the system on wood pens that have CA finish.
+Tom Doe Thanks for the feedback Tom. I'm hearing from quite a few people on Facebook who are using buffing as well and love it. I guess it's just one of those things that people don't mention much, but I think it deserves more mentions for the new pen turners starting out.
One question for you, I've been asked if I would do anything different when buffing CA (or other) finishes. I don't have much experience doing CA finishes with the buffing system but would assume it is pretty much the same. I'd love to hear your thoughts on that.
I am No CA glue expert for wood pens but what works for me is to sand to 1500 then use about 6 coats of thin CA. I don't always use the accelerator. It is slower without the accelerator but the results seem better. Drop back to 600 and sand to 1500 again. Move to the buffing wheel following a similar method to yours. The results are very satisfying. I don't sell pens but those on my Christmas list were very happy with the pens they got.
+Tom Doe I haven't done much buffing with CA finishes yet, but I'm excited to try it out. Your method is pretty close to what I would do too. I'm hoping that buffing will be more efficient/consistent with CA finishes too.
Hi Zac I have the Beall buffing system and never thought to use it on pens. I use it on bowls. Gonna fire it tomorrow to see what I get. I micro mesh to 12000, then hit it with head light scratch remover then to a blue rouge buffing wheel. Then put it back on the lathe on apply the museum grade wax. Lots of work lol. I use an old pen mandrel with plastic bushings to do it all. Thanks for sharing your experience with this. It looks like it will save me some time.
I hope it helps out a bit. I used to spend hours on sanding and polishing before I started using the buffing wheels. I always had problems getting every last scratch out using other methods, and it was never consistent. As long as you are diligent with the first 4 grits and make sure to get all the scratches out from the previous grit, I think you'll find this method a bit quicker and pretty reliable too
I tried this today - July 25, 2021.. It works very well and very quickly. The good thing about my system is that I do not have the long wheel. I have to remove one and replace it with the next. However, it is so quick it matters little and I have a lot of room on both sides. I also have three different sizes of wheels.
great video, where did you source the system of wheels?
Looks like I should be able to save some time with this set up. Like you I'm currently using the micro mesh to 12000 grit so this should save some steps. Thanks for sharing your set up Zac looks good.
+Tracy Williams I'm loving this system! I'm still playing around with what grit of MM to stop at, but it seems that 2-4 grits in is the sweet spot. I hope that this can be helpful to others, and I'm excited to hear some feedback from others who try it out.
Could you not use a tube insertion tool to hold the pen? Seems like it would work and you could always turn it around to get the other end and never have to actually hold it in your hand.
Lots of great info on this system. One thing I see is that wax at the end,could that help with the uv fade in pr blanks.
Second is the eee seems to be better in the long run ...or multiple blanks to do... especially for someone doing many at one time...and we all know time is money....this system is on my buy it list....thanks Zac. ..
+Robert Evans Thanks Robert! Yeah, it might give you a little fade protection, not a ton but it should help out a bit. I'm getting quite a few people on Facebook coming out of the proverbial woodwork saying that they are using buffing in their polishing schedules too. Seems like it's one of those subjects that not too many people talk about, but do use and get good results with. I don't think that you will be disappointed with a buffing setup.
What speed are you running?
Very informative well done video. You say what you know, demonstrate what you do, and lead people to understand another way to polish with a step system that give a very good result. Tip from a teacher: you do not need to apologize for the system or decisions you chose to make in refining your process. I'm sure the first violins from Stradivarius were not up to the standards of his final instruments. Thanks for the video and look forward to your next project/process/product. - Annie
+SuperYtviewer Thanks Annie!! I appreciate the tips. I always hope to share the best info possible and just want to make sure that I'm honest about how much knowledge or experience I have when I'm sharing processes. I definitely will have updates along the way on this one as I learn more.
hi zac, would you recommend to use the renaissance micro crystalline wax at final step after buffing at the third wheel?
I have one and it gets stuck in the headstock every time I use it. Ever since the very first time. I have to beat it out. Have you experienced that at all?
Great video. I have been considering the Beall system, or a homemade version of the same for a while. I agree that the wet sanding system is a pain. I think there are coarser grits that can be used earlier which I why I was contemplating making my own setup. Thinking about getting an inexpensive motor with some pillow blocks and pulley's that would gear down the speed to the 1000-1200rpm range.
Also, I would like to clarify the 15 minutes you stated was for a single section of a pen per wheel? I would think less for the carnauba wax wheel.
+David Lankford Yeah, I think you could get a homemade setup working great for it. Yeah, the times I mentioned weren't very clear, and to be honest I never really timed it. I'd say that I spend about 10 minutes on the Tripoly wheel, 3-5 on the White Diamond, and hit it with the wax really quick, 1-2 minutes or so. It's pretty quick. The main variable is how many scratches you have to take out with the Tripoly wheel. The higher you go with micro mesh, the less time you have to spend on the Tripoly. After a few more tests, I think that going up to the 3rd, maybe 4th grit of micro mesh may be about the sweet spot. The last couple times I went up to the 4th grit, and I sped through the Tripoly in only a few minutes. I plan to do more testing using only black acrylic, that should really put it to the test. I'll be doing an update after I get some more time with it and should have some better numbers and suggestions on a sanding/buffing schedule.
I’m looking at new lathes, how do you like that Nova? Pretty reliable?
Thank you Zac, I was just wondering if you could use this system on a finished (varnished) wood blank? And what is the proper speed to run for each wheel?
Yeah, buffing works great on finishes too. I'd probably keep it between 800 and 1200 for finishes. Pretty much the same speeds as I use for alumilite blanks. The faster the speed, the stiffer the wheel and more aggressive it will be.
Thank you!
Hey Zac love your videos, thanks for sharing. Question on the Beale buffing system. When you have a blank or stopper with both wood and alumni lite, do you do a super glue finish and then buff or do you skip the super glue all together? I'm looking at making some bottle stoppers with both wood and resin and should get my buffing system soon so not sure what is best. Thanks for any advice. Mike
+Mike Clark I've done it both ways, and both look pretty good. I'd recommend putting the finish on if the wood is not stabilized to add some protection and block moisture. Going with the CA finish will result in a slightly glossier and even sheen across the whole blank. Buffing without CA is slightly less glossy but still produces a pretty decent sheen on the wood, and you get to skip the CA finishing steps.
I think it can be a personal preference which looks better. Just buffing will provide a closer to the wood finish, some people prefer that. Going with the CA will put an obvious layer between you and the wood, but will offer more protection and really shine. You might need to do a couple tests to compare for yourself and see which you prefer. In general, I think a CA finish gives it that nice final touch and to me looks a tad bit classier if you like glossy finishes.
+Mike Clark I got caught up in answering your question, and I totally forgot to thank you for the kind words! Thank you!! I'm glad you're enjoying the videos :-)
Hey Zack I have a buffing wheel and I cast alumilute white urethane resin and wondered which compound stick do you use on the Aluma light resin to buff to a nice shine? there's a white bar a rouge there's green there's black there's blue really confused please help.
I'm using the Beall buffing system, and it comes with a Triple E bar that is reddish color, and a White Diamond bar that is white. Those two have been working good for me once I get the blanks sanded up to 1350 grit with the polishing papers. Make sure to get all the previous grit scratches out on each step of sanding, and maybe test out different speeds with the buffing wheel if you aren't getting a high polish
Zack, I just bought this system. I have polished 5 pens on it so far and have found that the wax wheel actually dulls the shine compared to the white diamonds wheel. Any idea as to what I am doing wrong? Not long enough on the wax or not enough wax? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hey Jim, I actually don't recommend using the wax wheel on pens, it doesn't produce any noticeable difference and the wax will end up breaking down and dulling fast with all the handling pens get. I'm guessing that you might have used a little too much wax perhaps you your speed was set too high or maybe too low even. I'm not entirely sure what was causing it to dull after the White Diamond wheel
Zach, me either. I even tried a few different test pieces, just to test different times on the wheel and such. So.... I will just use 2 out of the 3 wheels and call it a draw om the Carnuba wax. Maybe one day I will get into turning things other than pens. Keep up the excellent videos Zach. We appreciate it.
Nice video. I noticed on your bench you had a bottle of Novus #2. How does this system compare with using Novus #2? I have finished acrylic pens several ways using a pen mandrel. I typically use Abranet thru 400 grit. Then sometimes I micro mesh to 12000 and then finish with Novus #2 and Novus #1 using a paper towel hand gripped at about 1500 RPM. It seemed that the Novus #2 & #1 made the finish "pop" more. I have also just used Novus #2 and Novus #1 after 400 Abranet and found the finish to be about the same as using the Micro Mesh/Novus #2&1 but took a lot less time. Your thoughts... Thanks Much!
I prefer using buffing wheels over plastic polish myself. I get far more consistent results and the blanks turn out shinier too. I go through the steps I take for sanding and polishing in this video: th-cam.com/video/3hGf8qCdCag/w-d-xo.html
Zac another very informative video! Thanks for sharing. I've also played around with the buffing system. Have you tried or heard of the blue abrasive? Dan Pompe recommends it for acrylic. I would love for someone to real down the abrasive grit comparisons of the different colors. Thanks again for all you do.
+Jim Nottingham Thanks Jim, I'm really glad it was helpful for you. I have seen the blue buffing compound, but I'm not sure what grit it is. I believe it is a high gloss rouge, and I would guess it is somewhere near the White Diamond grit level, possibly higher. If I can find out more, I'll definitely add that to an update video I do on buffing in the future.
Have you ever turned deer antler or corn cob?? If no would you be interested in doing it?
+Luis Figueroa I have turned some buffalo horn for a razor handle before. Have some deer antler and a corn cob blank sitting in the shop too, just haven't gotten around to turning it yet. Time spent on the lathe is usually testing new blank designs, so I don't usually get around to doing other types of projects as often as I'd like to.
Hey there Zac, did you get the 3 wheels already assembled in series, or did you get the 3 separate wheels and join them yourself? If you joined them yourself how do you attach the system to the headstock?
Hey Andrew, they all come in a set with the mandrel. I have a link to it on my "tools I use" page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/ The mandrel has a #2 Morse taper on it, it's a great setup!
Thanks.
Zac, I recently purchased the Beall system repackaged for Peachtree Woodworking, and hope to install it today.
I've read a few reviews that indicate that the MT2, which is threaded on this kit for some reason, may damage the headstock's MT2 receiver.
Have you had, or heard of, any issues with this ?
Thanks !
I’ve been using the same Beall system from Peachtree for 4 years on my Jet lathe and have no issue with its impact on the headstock.
Ha Zac thanks for the video on the sand paper or the mesh what is it called and where do I get it and also the sand paper u use instead of the micro mesh I for got to write in down old age! great job!! Larry
Thanks Larry, glad you found it helpful =D I have links to both the Abranet sandpaper and the polishing papers on my "Tools I Use" page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/ Lots of other links to casting and turning supplies I use there too
You’ve got it backwards....wheel 3 that uses carnuba wax is flannel....the centre wheel is a mix of linen and flannel and the first wheel is linen which uses Tripoli. 😉
Zac are you coming to our Mid Ohio Valley Penturners Next Month ??? We would really like to see you this far East so we can meet you in person and have a GREAT time !!!
Really well done! I like the system
+Xyienced Thanks! I am really enjoying it and getting fantastic results. I'm actually surprised I don't hear more people using buffing as a final step.
+Zac Higgins hi Zac. The problem is that the wax after a while will give a dull finish to the material and you will need to buff it again pretty soon and lot of people don't like that. That's why most of the people avoid wax. But you can finish the piece for example with shellac, ca, etc. and then go through the first two wheels or just on the second one.
+Stefano Bastianelli Thanks for letting me know about the wax. I'll keep an eye on the ones I've buffed hit with wax and see how I feel about them over time.
Can we get the dimensions for that handy dandy piece of wood you're using to hold the blanks with?
Your video are helpful thx
Good and very Helpfull video Zac Thanks again!!
+Kwstas Antwniou Thanks Kwstas, let me know if you try buffing out. I've been getting such good results, I'd love to hear other people's experience with it.
I use mine but never use the carnauba wax. I have also got careless and had a pen blank go past my head at warp speed. The first couple of times you use it the fringes and strings coming off drive you crazy. I make brass key fobs with my CNC machine and use this system to shine the brass also.
Yeah, you have to watch out, if you lose your grip the workpiece will go flying! I've stopped using the wax wheel too for pens, but for wood it works pretty well. It helps to hit the brand new wheels with a piece of sandpaper backed up by some wood. Cleans out some of the frizzies.
Great info, Zac!
+Braxton Wirthlin Thanks! I really hope it helps others out, it's really made the polishing process a lot more consistent for me. Not sure what my deal was, but it would take me forever to get a blank scratch free with wet sanding and plastic polishes.
You did not show any pictures of the finished pen blank. :)
+Howard Springsteen Yeah I know, and I actually debated adding it but decided not to. The blank that I buffed in the video had already been buffed, so I couldn't show a before and after shot. That's something I plan to include when I do an update video.
Just leave the blank on the pen mandrel you turned it on. Take the whole mandrel out insert the buffer in the lathe and buff the blank while holding the pen mandrel.
I dont use mandrels, but that would work if you did
Zac Higgins Fair enough, my bad for assuming.
Nice taste in Lathes :)
+Gene Ilten Heck yeah!! I love that little Comet... Although I have to be honest, I'm really looking hard at the DVR models. Love to have one of each some day :-)
+Zac Higgins h
Have loved mine. Graduated from a Shopsmith. Dream of either a Robust or Nova's larger DVR.
+Gene Ilten I stepped up to the Comet from a Shopsmith myself! I'm much happier with the Comet, could never get the tailstock lined up or tightened right on the SS. I love those Robust lathes too. Might be overkill for pens, but I've never shied away from overkill :)
if only I had an extra lathe to put it on.
+Robbie Vigil No doubt!! That's actually the reason I never really tried buffing until recently, just being lazy about having to set my lathe up with it. I usually just get a bunch of pens sanded up before hooking up the buffing wheels now, then I get all them buffed in one shot while I have it set up. Down the road, I really hope to have a dedicated buffing area set up too, that would be sweet!
Tripoli has silica in it so you better wear the appropriate mask or risk silicosis :/