Beall Buffing System Tips
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2021
- In Beall Buffing Systems Tips I review the Beall Buffing System, explain how you get the best finish on your woodturnings and provide a bunch of useful tips.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases from my Amazon shop www.amazon.com/shop/mikepeace...
Beall Wood Buff System amzn.to/3amjOIi
Beall 3-On Lathe Buffing Mandrel amzn.to/2NF4HSi
You can download demonstration handouts, downloadable copies of articles I have published, and other useful woodturning information available on my website www.mikepeacewoodturning.com/ - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Thanks, Mike, appreciate all your videos and teaching information.
Very welcome
Loved the instruction on the use of the Beal buffing system. Thanks a lot.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great info Mike. Thanks for sharing. Great for the new turner and a refresher for us old timers!
Take care, Dave
Thanks 👍
Thank you young man. Appreciate the videos very much.
You are very welcome
Great info Mike! Stuff I knew little about before this. As usual, your timing seems to always be impeccable for me and what I'm doing or thinking of. Appreciate you very much!
Great to hear!
Great instructional video, Mike. I have had a Beall system for many years and now I know that I definitely overload the Trip and WD. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful information. Thank you very much.
So nice of you
Very nice presentation, Mike! I've always been curious about this system and now I know!
Phil
Glad it was helpful, Phil!
Use an inch or so square block of hardwood about 6”-8” long, hold in both hands and bring an edge of the wood firmly against the buffing compound wheel, this drags the old compound up and out of the wheel, do this with all buffing wheels from time to time. Works a treat. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.👍😁🇦🇺🦘
Yep, that works. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, great info...I bought the Beall system almost 2 years ago and haven’t used it yet. Now, I feel more confident.
Try it. You will wonder why you waited!
Thanks Mike. I always wondered about the polishing system.
Glad to help
Im just getting into turning and realizing there us a lot more to buy than i ever imagined.
Great video, i defently will be looking into this system down the road.
For a lot of hobby turners, it may take a year before they get to the point of concentrating on finishing. You can certainly spread out the costs.
Thanks for this explanation.
You are welcome!
Very informative, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips. Thanks 👍
You bet!
Nice overview Mike. I have all three (8", 4" and several size balls) that I have on either a 1725 rpm motor for the 8" or a 3450 rpm for the smaller ones. they work great. Nice overview and contained info that I had forgotten!
It is funny, Tom, but I can go back and watch one of my odl videos and relearn something I had forgotton!
Mike, I think you’re one of the very best teachers on UTube!
Thanks so much, Sandy!
Very good video. I been in several discussion where the individual thinks it us for sanding. Granted you can take very light scratches in the wood. I even saw one video, and she has 20 thousand subscribers, she did a test and after the she buffed it she said now you have to apply a finish. Shellac. Then compared it and declared that compound bad. You are spot on with this video. Funny your buffing station looks just like mine. Ha Ha Ha. One other note. I original got the individual mounted wheels. When I saw the triple mounted wheels, I said hey that is cool. I bough only the mount thinking I could use the individual wheels on it. Wrong the mount diameter were different. So, I now have both. 😊 Thanks again.
There are a lot of "experts" out there. The challenge is deciding which one knows what he or she is talking about.
I have the 8" Beall system on a 3500 rpm motor for Briar pipe polishing. Haven't had a problem with speed being too fast yet.
I guess it is a bit like using a hi speed grinder for sharpening. If you know what you are doing and careful it works. Half that speed means others folks are less like to throw their work across the shop or burn through a film finish.
Mike, thanks for the buffing information. I guess I have been over loading my buffers. Was going to get a “Buffing wheel Rake” for cleaning. But will try the plywood first.
Glad to help. More is not always better except for maybe beer!
Great tutorial Mike. Am filing away for future reference. Thanks for sharing🙏 Stay safe. -Mike😷💉
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Mike...really good info... thanks for sharing... stay safe...press on 😎 Joe
Thanks, will do!
Nice video Mike! Most complete Beall video I have seen. One suggestion for future video, how to deal with buffing small pieces. Maybe ornaments or salt and pepper grinders/shakers. They can get airborne PDQ. I do hate the fluff that these wheels produce when new.
I will add that to my list. Perhaps compare and contrast buffing and abrasive paste?
I clean my tripoli wheel by using the edge of plywood. Mostly I use it after I polish metal to get the black mess and old tripoli out of the wheel. I think the alternating end grain is what does the work. Not sure where I got this tip, but it works for me and I've used the same wheel since the mid 90's.
I appreciate your videos and enjoy your work. Thanks.
Thanks for the tip. I will replace my board with plywood. Glad it cleans off the black from polishing metal.
Mike, good stuff! thank you! I have buffed pipe stummels and used similar techniques. I have a Wheel Rake, with metal teeth that scrape out the tripoli, etc … that might clean up the desecrated ball … :-)
Sounds great!
Great video Mike- as always you spoil your students! I’ve just started using my Beall system in the last few months and love working with it and love the results too. It’s a shame J.R. sold out. But he deserves some retirement play time. He told me everything went to Lee Valley. I checked their site and unfortunately they have very few Beall products on there. Maybe they’re just trying to get up to speed. I’m going to get the 4” discs when I can find some. Thanks again for your time and effort sir.
Thanks. I did not know about that sale. Sometimes small woodturning business owners do not have enough of a business plan for their business to be worth much even if they had good products. So many fail to have a succession plan in place if something happens to the principal owner.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Yup he bailed beginning of ‘23. Told me everything they had in stock went to Canada. Great guy. Creative as all get out and helpful. His instruction videos are keepers. Glad I bought when I did. Picked up his Treen tools too. Have yet to try it out. Looks like a setup that’s right up your alley. Anyway I’m going to give LV a shout and see what they plan to offer. JR indicated that LV would be manufacturing and marketing his stuff but didn’t go into detail. Thanks again Mike. PS, any videos where I could get a better look at that dust hood? Looks to be 1/4” ply maybe.
@@AlbeTurner Here is a link to a video th-cam.com/video/k8dyMTaHqK0/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the update on Beall.
Thanks!
Thanks for your support!
great tips mike . i dont buff anything really i dont sell much of my work and just turn for fun and youtube videos really . but that may change at some point . always good to know things even if you dont use them . i do use the acks sanding paste and finishing wax i sure like them alot . i wonder if you could use a buffing wheel for them as well ? well take care my friend i will be looking forward to your next video as always .
Thanks. I would not want to contaminate my tripoli wheel with the mineral oil that is in the abrasive paste. I think you you could apply the wax finish to the piece and buff but see no need to not use the carnauba that would come with the beall buff system.
I've had trouble with the white diamond leaving streaks. To much compund that I tried to remove with no luck. I will try some sandpaper now. Thanks Mike.
Good luck!
Mike, I really appreciate the information and the detail of your explanation. Is the sandpaper you use prep the wheels always the 80 to 100 grit that you mentioned?
Yes, but sometimes I just use the edge of a board.
Great training video, Mike! One question…can I use the Tripoli on bare wood (in this case, olive wood and wenge) and then spray finish them with lacquer? It would work better for my project.
I do not know. That is not what the manufacturer recommended. I would think there is a risk of leaving a fine coat of tallow carrier on the surface. Try it and let me know how it works out.
Great video on the Beal buffing system.
What kind of spindel lock do you have 0n you're Powermatic lathe. Thank-you
The 3520b has a manual spindle lock in that you have to hold the button down. I have a PM add on given to me to allows me to keep it locked without holding.
Make sure you have a firm grip on your piece especially if it is small or the wheel will grab it from your hands.
I did not find that to be a steep learning curve after I lost a couple!
Thanks for the info this system will be my next purchase ( after I check with my minister of finance )
Best of luck!
Mike, thank you. I need to purchase a buffing system, because I am a beginner and like making a vase or lidded box I am thinking the smaller buffing diameter is more useful?
When speed is adjusted accordingly, not sure if there would be a big difference. The Beall system with 8" wheels comes with compounds and a mandrel. Buying the individual parts with 4" wheels is not going to be cheaper I don't think. The 8" wheels are thicker, 70 vs 50 plys.
Thank you for the video. Are you buffing between coats of the antique finish?
No. No need to buff until the final coat.
Mike, another great video. I appreciate the thorough explanation of the Beall system and how it fits with a finish. What's your comment on the durability of the final finish with carnauba? Is it enough for a pepper mill?
Sorry, I did not emphasize the wax is generally not a finish and it won't hold up. That is why I use Minwax AO and buff over.
i dont mean to be off topic but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Ayaan Judson Instablaster ;)
@Nathanael Marcel i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Nathanael Marcel It worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
Also how long did it take you to accumulate all of those lathe chucks on the shelf behind you ?? nice collection
12 years, 2 were used. 2 were payment for services rendered.
Could you soak the isused Tripoli wheel in water and detergent for few hours to get the Tripoli out? So then be able to use it with carnauba as intended.
That Tripoli in a talow base is not going to just wash out I don't think. But I suppose I have nothing to lose giving it a try!
I just finished a red cedar bowl with boiled linseed oil friction polish. How long should I wait to buff it? I have the three wheel system.
Until there is no smell. Could be a few days or a couple of weeks.
There are two more progressively finer compounds that caswell and merzerna make. Just an idea.
Carnauba is the hardest natural wax - microcrystalline wax can be harder, but its an artificial (petroleum derivative) product.
Chestnut Products (who sell both carnauba and microcrystalline waxes) claim that you can use them interchangeably on the same buff. The difference is that microcrystalline is a paste that is applied to the workpiece and allowed to dry before buffing. What is you opinion about that?
I do not use much Renaissance wax but always did apply to the piece. Always just did a brief wipe with a clothe or paper towwl. I will have to try the buffer. I do not see any problem with the slight blending of the two waxes should that occur. I do not think Renaissance leaves as much of a shine as Carnauba but is far more fingerprint resistant.
Any thoughts on using the system on boards finished with mineral oil and beeswax? I occasionally make charcuterie boards. I’m wondering if skipping straight to the carnuba wax might work. I believe it’s food safe. But also worried I might gum up the wheels or contaminate them with the mineral oil and beeswax. I don’t really need a big shine on them, but could look nice.
I would not buff mineral lil/beeswax finish. It also penetrates better than carnauba which is the goal on cutting boards - pentration. Shiney won't last long.Just replenish the besswax mixture when the wood looks dull.
That's what I was leaning into as well. Thanks for the confirmation.
Good Day Mr Peace.
You mention the need to finish the part before treating it with the Beall system. However, on Beall's site, in their videos, they apparently buff the piece directly onto bare wood after properly sanding it. I guess it keeps a more natural look to the wood. So what is it really? Is it a matter of preference? I buffed some bare wood as a test and the result looks quite good regarding the shiny aspect.
However I recently bought the buffing system and treated a bowl that I had, as far as I can remember, previously done the finish with lacquer (Zinnsser Traditional Finish and Sealer). The result after buffing with the Compound Tripoli gave a gummy finish in addition to incorporating lints from the wheel. The White Diamond buff did not improve the situation. Note that I had been careful not to overload neither the Tripoli wheel nor the White Diamond wheel and I had treated the wheels with sandpaper as recommended to get rid of the lints. I buffed at 1750 rpm. Was I too aggressive (pressure) on the wheel? Or are there some finish products to avoid? Should we limit ourselves to oils such as walnut?
Thank you for your advice.
Raw wood will never look good long term with just buffing. The shine will go away quickly without a finish. I think John Beall's videos focus on his buffing supplies and can be misleading. But if you look at the written instructions, it is clear. Use a finish before buffing. Sounds like you either failed to let your lacquer cure or you pressed too hard or too long and burned through it.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks for your analysis. The lacquer was less than a week old. How long would you let the curing develop for a lacquer or for oil? I read we need to cure up to 6 months for walnut oil, which seems awfully long to sit on the shelve before finally completing the finishing. I don't want to rush as it would otherwise destroy a lot of work.
@@alaincaron225 I would wait a couple of weeks, maybe longer in a cold shop. I would not try and buff walnut oil. It is not a shiney finish and as you said, it can take some time to harden. My preference is for Minwax AO. I wait several days after the last coat. If you can smell the finish, it is not cured.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks.
Where do you get those hats? BTW Great demo.
My Amazon store Dew Rags/skull caps amzn.to/3D3J6Y9
Even the buffing wheels get a Covid cut. :)
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