This is how I remember getting taught in Wood Shop classes back in the 80's. It's a slow, methodical, and fun process to get wood pieces polished and waxed just right. I like how he mentions about getting the piece flung across the room! LOL, I can't tell you how many times that happened to me back then! God, I am sooooo lucky that I never got whacked or hit anyone else.
Fantastic instructional video. I learned exactly what I need to know and how to do it correctly. The details about the grit content and the pad composition. Straight and to the point, no grandstanding or endless, narcissistic needless banter. I never leave a comment on anyone's video. I have never been compelled. Until now. You now have another happy subscriber. Thank you.
This was my exact plan when I ordered the beall system to use with some watco, now I am very excited to do it in person. Great video with unique tips on how to use the beall. Thanks
i dont mean to be offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost my password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Kyrie Vincent Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Beautiful finishes especially the oil soaked piece. What oil do you use and can other oils also be used? Also I see you use the loose cotton buff wheels. Do they produce better results than a stitched cotton buff ? I make knives and wondered if I could get Deven better finishes with the loose cotton wheels??
Also if u do fine sanding after the danish oil is that a bad idea, I noticed some guys sand apply a finish like oil or laq, then sand that to 2k 3k before the Buffing? Looks. Nice thanks
What compounds are you using, and is that beeswax? I've tried to polish with a green compound (which works great on metals) on Thai rosewood but it seems to get caught in the pores and discolors it. I tried to use as little compound as possible.
My application is to bring back the shine to wood chess pieces ... most are done on a lathe ... but the most spectacular pieces are the knights ... they are hand carved with lots of detail in the mane ... how important would it be for me to obtain a buffing machine of 900 rmp ? That seems hard to find? Suggestions?
Just finished watching your first video in this series. Could not leave a comment there so I'll do so here. First off, great presentation. One thing though. You are using the Beall system and failed to mention that a threaded rod could be used to hold the Morse taper in the head stock as well as the tail stock. I believe it takes a 1/4-20 threaded rod.
Thanks a lot for your video. Could you please explain me the differences between each wheel? I don't have a rotate polish machine like you and i want to buy 15cm diam. polishing wheels for drill.
Hi there - great video - thanks much for uploading. One question for you - can you use any bench grinder as a buffing machine? Is there a certain brand / hp / size you would suggest? Thanks!
I was thinking the same thing. I think that you can. We used bench top grinding machines back in our wood shop classes. With polishing and waxing is all about pressure, the right amount of time that the pressure is applied to the wood piece, the right compounds to use for both polishing and waxing, and have a general understanding about how wax behaves. I think that the most important thing to remember too is to have different cloth wheels for all your different compounds. Also ensuring that you dress the wheel prior to working with any new wood project. The later is especially true if you have not used your equipment in like a few weeks or months. You definitely don't want to have hardened compounds scratch and ruin the face of your wood project. I've done that a few times, and the only way to resolve that oversight is to go back to sanding again. Not a fun thing to do, especially when you have spent a good amount of time working on your wood project.
Do you use those hard brushes used to clean the files , to raise the fiber and obtain a smooth fiber all around ? this is a common method . I use a piece of wood too but thought it helped to warm the disk I was also told to use synthetic tallow on the cottons, I think it is mostly for metal polishing, or if the harder waxes are not greasy enough, but it protects the cotton that loose less fiber then I only polish brass hinges, casters , and polyester finishes on pianos, so my needs may be different from yours (using a heavy duty electrical polisher hold by a zero gravity balancer) My disks need to be hardened using carboard disks on their sides, (they are cut with a sharp blade when the disks wear) I also need to cut protuberating fibers regularly. and I cannot push hard as you as polyester may not warm too much or it melt and it get softer, degraded, above a certain temperature (which I'd like to know BTW) Best regards
This is how I remember getting taught in Wood Shop classes back in the 80's. It's a slow, methodical, and fun process to get wood pieces polished and waxed just right.
I like how he mentions about getting the piece flung across the room! LOL, I can't tell you how many times that happened to me back then! God, I am sooooo lucky that I never got whacked or hit anyone else.
Fantastic instructional video. I learned exactly what I need to know and how to do it correctly. The details about the grit content and the pad composition. Straight and to the point, no grandstanding or endless, narcissistic needless banter. I never leave a comment on anyone's video. I have never been compelled. Until now. You now have another happy subscriber. Thank you.
...and no bloody awful background music!
Great video. I’ve been using buffing wheels, but I learned some great tips.
Thanks,
Peter
Thanks so much
I didn’t know we needed to remove the excess from the wheel. Thanks!!
Ow my, I so want to give this a try! Congrats on an inspiring video Sir.
Lots of good advice.
Many thanks
Thank you so much for uploading this video
This was my exact plan when I ordered the beall system to use with some watco, now I am very excited to do it in person. Great video with unique tips on how to use the beall. Thanks
i dont mean to be offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost my password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Griffin Cody Instablaster :)
@Kyrie Vincent Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kyrie Vincent it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Griffin Cody No problem :)
Thank you!!! Great videos, great voice I could listen for hours.
Great video Sir! Very informative!
Great tutorial really impressive. Thanks so much 👍👍
Verythsnks
Great tutorial, Thank you learned heaps.
Thanks for he tips 👍🏻
Great information. Thank you for the help.
excellent
thank you Sir,enjoyed your video.
Beautiful finishes especially the oil soaked piece. What oil do you use and can other oils also be used? Also I see you use the loose cotton buff wheels. Do they produce better results than a stitched cotton buff ? I make knives and wondered if I could get Deven better finishes with the loose cotton wheels??
I really want to try this
I gotta say Sir. I could learn somethings from you. Man, I wish I kmew you!
Great video thanks
Thanks Sir
I was doing it all wrong. Now I know why! Thank you. Excellent video.
Does this work with matte metal? Maybe aluminium?
Great vid. What was the 1st compound you used before white diamond ?
There is a part 1 video to this video. He tells us in that video that it is jewelers rouge which is about 800 grit.
Hi thank u....what type of compound
Also if u do fine sanding after the danish oil is that a bad idea, I noticed some guys sand apply a finish like oil or laq, then sand that to 2k 3k before the Buffing? Looks. Nice thanks
Can you list all the compounds and wax stick you use?
I never heard you say anything about either the initial compound (was that brown Tripoli?) or what kind of wax you used. 😞
Can you please post what compounds your are using? Thanks
What compounds are you using, and is that beeswax? I've tried to polish with a green compound (which works great on metals) on Thai rosewood but it seems to get caught in the pores and discolors it. I tried to use as little compound as possible.
My application is to bring back the shine to wood chess pieces ... most are done on a lathe ... but the most spectacular pieces are the knights ... they are hand carved with lots of detail in the mane ... how important would it be for me to obtain a buffing machine of 900 rmp ? That seems hard to find? Suggestions?
I am curious about the quick change method of changing your buffing wheel. Is is a kit you bought or something you made?
Just finished watching your first video in this series. Could not leave a comment there so I'll do so here. First off, great presentation. One thing though. You are using the Beall system and failed to mention that a threaded rod could be used to hold the Morse taper in the head stock as well as the tail stock. I believe it takes a 1/4-20 threaded rod.
How long did you soak the watch piece? I heard you say to let it dry a week, but I wonder how long you would need to soak it?
Thanks a lot for your video.
Could you please explain me the differences between each wheel? I don't have a rotate polish machine like you and i want to buy 15cm diam. polishing wheels for drill.
How long did you soak the wood?
Please tell me you used wax name please
what type of buffing compund are you using?
Is white diamond same as white rouge thanks
Hi good day i would like to know where can i buy the wax buffing
Hi there - great video - thanks much for uploading. One question for you - can you use any bench grinder as a buffing machine? Is there a certain brand / hp / size you would suggest? Thanks!
I was thinking the same thing. I think that you can. We used bench top grinding machines back in our wood shop classes.
With polishing and waxing is all about pressure, the right amount of time that the pressure is applied to the wood piece, the right compounds to use for both polishing and waxing, and have a general understanding about how wax behaves.
I think that the most important thing to remember too is to have different cloth wheels for all your different compounds. Also ensuring that you dress the wheel prior to working with any new wood project. The later is especially true if you have not used your equipment in like a few weeks or months. You definitely don't want to have hardened compounds scratch and ruin the face of your wood project. I've done that a few times, and the only way to resolve that oversight is to go back to sanding again. Not a fun thing to do, especially when you have spent a good amount of time working on your wood project.
What is name of Wax chalk
Russ where do you buy your pads from and your compounds and wax?
+BillBliss Like you, I just love it when someone uploads a video and then never bothers to answer any questions
Cliff Carlo especially when it is a tutorial
I need to know the name of fabric used in this brush
3 wheels used..... Go to Bealltools.com for details on their buffing system where the composition of the wheels is detailed.
I remember in high school the teacher always said : hold it firm or it will go flying and kill someone!
Sir, may I have the information on your lathe. It's simple and tall, I want it lol.
Do you use those hard brushes used to clean the files , to raise the fiber and obtain a smooth fiber all around ? this is a common method . I use a piece of wood too but thought it helped to warm the disk
I was also told to use synthetic tallow on the cottons, I think it is mostly for metal polishing, or if the harder waxes are not greasy enough, but it protects the cotton that loose less fiber then
I only polish brass hinges, casters , and polyester finishes on pianos, so my needs may be different from yours (using a heavy duty electrical polisher hold by a zero gravity balancer)
My disks need to be hardened using carboard disks on their sides, (they are cut with a sharp blade when the disks wear)
I also need to cut protuberating fibers regularly. and I cannot push hard as you as polyester may not warm too much or it melt and it get softer, degraded, above a certain temperature (which I'd like to know BTW)
Best regards