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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2021
- Our R&D department representative, Cody, takes us through an inside look at the Ford Transit 2021 Consumer Connection Point. DIYers with this van may find this information helpful especially when connecting their alternator chargers. Remember that different makes, models, and years have different specifications, so please look into your own rig for details. This particular LTV was built on a Ford Transit chassis.
Let us know what your thoughts and questions are and we'll do our best to answer them in the comments.
For a similar system or a custom quote, visit AMSolar.com and fill out a Quote Request form so we know more about your needs.
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AM Solar provides energy management and independent power solutions for RVs and other off-grid applications like boats and tiny homes. We offer RV solar panels and other equipment, including lithium batteries, inverter/chargers, and battery monitoring in complete do-it-yourself solar kits. Since our inception over twenty years ago, we have led the way in camping and RV solar panel systems implementation, products, and customer service.
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Great Job!
Really helpful - thank you!!
My transit hasn’t been delivered yet but interesting intel sir. Subscribed.
I don’t believe that CCP2 is ignition controlled. It is “cold” when system/battery voltage drops as part of the load shedding logic. If you turn off your ignition, CCP2 stays “hot” until voltage drops. On my motorhome the manufacturer had to remove the batteries and access a specific ignition pin connection.
Great video, thank you! It's difficult to find wiring diagrams for installing 2x 12/30 Orions in parallel. Some recommend using 2 runs of 6 AWG wire, leaving independently from Orions to 2 60A fuses, to the car battery. The wire gauge you used seems bigger and you seem to have 1 wire only going to the CCP n.2. Could you describe how you did it? Thanks! Mine are isolated Orions.
Excellent video. Very precise and clear to understand. Please clarify for me the following. It sounds like you chose to go with consumer Point #2 (even though the added amperage capacity wasn't required for the task at hand) because it is ignition switch activated and this gave you redundancy to the capabilities of the DC to DC charger in terms of detecting if the engine is running and charging the engine battery?
Thanks for the feedback! In this particular application, the customer wanted dual Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/30 Chargers (non-isolated) which have the potential input current draw of 40ADC each requiring the use of their 175ADC rated Transit CCP-2. The IG-controlled CCP-2 feature was an added benefit that eliminated the need to run an IG signal to the Orions, which ultimately saved the customer unnecessary installation expenses.
Thank you for sharing! Much faster and easier to watch this thorough explanation than read the 2020 BEMM.
RANDOM SIDE QUESTION: Has anyone tracked down the 2021 BEMM?
I've the second version from 2020
Thanks very much for providing this information for those of use trying to learn all of this. So very invaluable... I am about to wire up my 12/24 DC to DC charger to my 22 transit. I was going to use CCP 1 since it was rated/fused for 60A, but then you said 'not ignition controlled' which immediately made me wonder. I'm assuming the victron device is smart enough to not draw unless the engine is running and even has a setting to enable/disable the limitation, so I should be able to use CCP1 with no worries, yes? I really hate being a newb! :)
CCP1 is good. With a properly programmed Orion, current will only flow when the alternator is charging. Good luck with your project.
@@GarretTowneAMS Thanks very much for responding so quickly and confirming that for me.
Good informative video, thanks for posting. I have not encountered a CCP and so typically connect directly to the starter battery + and - for my Orion B2B charger. I have an upcoming project which has a CCP and have a question: is there a ground on the CCP or do you connect elsewhere to a chassis point, such as back in your electrical area? Thanks much
You can make a chassis connection anywhere, as long as it goes to thick metal with the paint scraped off. I have dealt with many people who don't fully remove the paint and have poor connections that don't work.
So my ground is one of the D-ring connectors about 2 feet behind the driver's seat. I run AWG 2 from the CCP to the inverter, through a 150A breaker, (50A if CCP1 only) and then connect to the inverter and ground the inverter at the D-ring
Great explanation. Just wondering about the best spot to ground an Isolated Orion DC to DC charger. I noticed the lug above CCP 2 looked to have grounding abilities?
We recommend using a non-isolated Orion on vans. With either the Isolated or non-Isolated Orions the best ground location is direct to the frame. (Isolated Orions are more for trailers.) This can be routed through the cable gland located under the seat. There is usually at least one grounding bolt provided by the factory under the seat that can be used as well. If locating the Orion to the rear of the vehicle the Orion can be grounded at the factory grounding points located near the rear on the driver's side. The ground cable can also be routed down behind the taillights and be grounded directly to the frame which is optimal.
What you are suggesting may work but we've never tested it.
would have been great to see the actual connections you made into the back.
Send an email to garret@amsolar.com and I'll see what I can find for you.
That's a very helpful video. I will probably connect a 12/24-20 amp Victron Orion to the CCP1 but there isn't a nut on this terminal. Do you happen to know what size the nut is?
am not certain of the thread specs, but I know that CCP1 is typically small and requires a 1/4" lug, whereas CCP2 is larger and requires a 5/16" or 3/8" lug.
Mine has all three lugs in place.....
This is a great video however my ccp2 connection is always hot and I don’t hear the relay click over when moving the key to the on or off position. I’ve got a 2023 transit with dual amg batteries. Any idea on what the issue is?
We haven't seen a 2023 Transit yet. Our initial inclination would be a use a Victron Cyrix between the CCP and a battery bank, assuming the battery bank is at least 300Ah and the alternator is at least 200A. When we get a 2023 in the shop, we will certain test this and make a video.
Does this mean we need to get a second battery to set up with alternator charging? We have a ‘22 Ford Transit EL HR AWD 350 Ecoboost.
The alternator configuration from the factory will charge the starter battery. If you want to charge a secondary battery bank, then you will likely want to set up alternator charging to that. This video shows how to make that connection.
Hey Garret, could you please help me out? I have a ford transit 2020. I also have 2 orions in my victron system. Could you tell me what settings you are using on both your orions? normal alternator, smart alternator, and the voltage settings please. This would greatly help me out.
The settings have to do with the battery type. Let me know what battery type you have and I'll tell you what we use.
@@GarretTowneAMS I'm sorry. I mean the engine shut down detection settings.
@@GoingBoundless Is this what you want? Start voltage: 14.0V, Delayed Start Voltage: 13.8V, Delayed Start Voltage Delay: 120s, Shutdown Voltage: 13.5V
@@GarretTowneAMS thank you a ton. Yes
Do you know if you can charge the van's batteries via CCP1 or CCP2?
Both, but by different means. Send me an email and I’ll explain. Garret at amsolar dot com.
@@GarretTowneAMS Sent you an email. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks!
When he keeps saying ‘converter’ does he mean inverter or dc-dc charger?
Converter = DC/DC charger
What is the Ford part number to add the 175 CCP point (stud and fuse) to the Ford transit?
The 2 60 amp fuses appear to only work for the 2019 and earlier….I have them and can mail them to anyone that wants them for $20
In our experience and research, we have concluded that there are OEM part #'s for the CCP-1 & CCP-2, but when contacting a local dealer they are unable to help source them. Here is a recent response from one of our DIY'rs who drew the same conclusion...
I am not sure-by your response regarding a CCP-2 upgrade-if you had a chance to review the Ford BEEM for the 2020/2021 Transit. There appears to be ORM upgrade options outlined in the BEEM, but I have had no luck getting the Ford dealer to help. Frustrating to say the least. For now, I will stick with the CCP-1 60A option, and hope that a solution develops in the future.
On this customer's behalf, I tried calling our local dealer and the parts guy did not even know if a CCP-1 or CCP-2 were available for replacement or upgrade. I think the manufacturer makes it intensionally difficult to support such an upgrade, and at this point, I am not sure who to ask.
@@GarretTowneAMS I saw all of the kits in the BEEM.....so it looks as though you have to upgrade from the single lead acid battery to the 2AGM's and that requires that you get 10 or so parts to complete the upgrade (not the simple 2 60amp jumpers from earlier models).....provided you can get the new parts. (I've had luck ordering from Texas distributors.....call them and ask....better than online) I think that the other option is to find a van outfitter, and there are a few on the web...that seem to be doing this upgrade for their customers.....I'd pay someone at this point, provided the labor was less than $500 + parts. I need 150amps from the CCP to complete my build....this is going into a 2000W inverter that this the back-up system for my house/solar system....and provides Hot Water generation while driving....otherwise its cold showers or I'm sucking off the house/solar system or the shore system. I got my next-door mechanic shop owner asking his buddies as the local ford if they can do it.
@@trrpettus Good info. Alternator charging systems are always a huge headache for us. We are working on a Transit and a Promaster this week. It will be interesting.
@@trrpettus Regarding the hot showers, I will be purchasing a heat exchanger that will heat up circulating water into my hot water tank by splicing into my van's radiator hose. So, basically, I go to the gym early in the morning, get in the car to drive to work. Engine is hot and so is my water from the free heat of the engine. Soon as I park, I take a nice hot shower with free hot water. Just gotta cut a line from your coolant/antifreeze hose and then place your heat exchanger there to complete the loop. TH-camr George from Humble Road shows this. Check it out.