I used the "pastry bag" trick today to fill the gap around the edges of my new transom. Worked like a charm, finished off with plastic spoon. Ready for some tabbing now! Thanks for the videos.
you have some really good tips! thanks a lot. I'm doing another boat this week. I finished that glastron cv16 and now I'm doing a glastron jetflite 143. only took one day to get the cap off on this one! tomorrow I remove stringers, transom and floor. I've done stringers on a mastercraft 19' and the floor and balsa core on a hydrostream in the last few months. and a few more aluminum boat floors and a sea ray floor to name a few. its easy after some practice!
+wrench One Thanks! You're turning a corner once you get the stringers bedded, I planned and planned before that step. Sure was glad to have it behind me! Good luck with your restoration!
G'day mate, welcome back to the project. I started watching your vids 'How to' about 2 months ago, I'm now putting the floor in today. Thanks for the tips, man I wish I knew about the putty bag, I got it everywhere spooning the putty in! Lol
Mick Black thanks for the comments! The putty bag is the most useful thing in this video! I've used putty with and without the bag and you're right it gets everywhere spooning it in. I'm glad you were able to get the floor in your boat, that's close to happening with my project. Thanks for watching!
Just as a [Tip] always coat (Resin Pre-coat allow to dry) Porous materials like wood so there is minimal Absorption of Resin. This will give a better adhesion to the glass fabric, and help prevent separation from woods, metals, and plastics down the road... just a thought
Hi "jmink" .... You're the best !!! I drink your experience like a nectar .... Welcome from France !!!! My own boat is a Glastron V144 with an Evinrude 70 HP... I search for a Glastron v 156 to restore ..... Impossible to find in my country ...... GRRRRR !!!!
jmink Hi. I have finished to restore last month ... But my work was so tiny, just 3 weeks to get ready for fun !!! I learn a lot of technical uses reading your video. Enjoy your restoration !!!..... I read you every time you display a video ... I beg your pardon for my poor english ..... Your far friends from France, Carole (my wife) and me (Philippe).... Bye bye.... ;)
Just a note on the patches, if you can see white sections in the patches then you have either air pockets or the fibre is not saturated with resin, these will be weak spots, you need a hard roller to move the air out of the matting.
Hi I would like to know where you purchased the materials needed.? Where did you get that roll of fiberglass also the resin mixture and the putty glue. name and type. In the video you called items by code or number.I want to get the same material. Thanks, Fantastic videos
Hi Eric, I previously made a Q&A video where I dove into the amount of fiberglass materials and such that I used. Here's a link th-cam.com/video/m_TeoFn0wg4/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps out.
I've tried reading down and I can see were several other people I have asked the same question and where you have responded but for some reason I'm not seeing it in my feed
Why the little styrofoam squares underneath the stringer's? I have a 1964 Crestliner Challenger open skiff that I want to put streamers down lay a floor in. I have a for sale on top of the fiberglass bench seats but that's not going to last. Plus I would like to sit lower in the boat for more stability.
Hey Josh. Thanks for sharing your step by step process on restoring your Glastron. I just picked up a '75 V156 and I'm beginning the tear down of the floor. I'm just curious, could you have not ground down the remaining fiberglass after cutting it out for the stringers and then you could have used it as a slot to hold the new ones? Maybe it might have made the process a bit quicker? Thanks again for all of your great content!
Hi Dan! First of all, thank you for watching, and good luck with your boat project. To answer the question on the stringer/fiberglass work, I had some shotty fiberglass from the factory around the original stringers and I didn't want to keep any of it. In theory, your idea is a good one, but it just wasn't something I would have done with my boat.
I'm still not sure on how to determine proper stringer height. Do you have to determine height factoring some kind of putty effect, and/ or, add an additional 1/4" for the spacers?
I was able to use my existing stringers to determine the height. But, if you don't have old stringers to make a template from you will need to find the line of the deck on the inside of the hull (assuming the deck is out of the boat already). Then take a board/or string, set it at that deck height, then measure down from the string to the hull at the different points. Also you'll do this at multiple points moving forward from the stern to the bow of the boat. Then you can take a board and transfer those measurements to it and it should reveal the shape of the stringer. The measurement of the spacers, plus layers of fiberglass will only come into play if your deck is going to come in contact with a pre-existing structure/obstacle.
+casey murray if I don't leave the garage door open while working, I open it as soon as the fiberglass kicks off so that I don't stink up the house. The smell gets in a little bit, but it dissipates quickly.
Hey Josh, I am doing similar with my little 13 ft run about. How do you keep the boat in the correct shape whilst you are glassing in the new stringers? I am thinking of blocking the boat up to keep it level? What was the reason you did it the way you did? Just curious to work out the best method. I am worried about the boat warping while I am glassing it in, or glassing it into a shape that is warped. Thanks in advance.
Hi there, I'd like to know the reason for using the foam squares under the stringers. Are they necessary? Is there a forum on iboats that explains why to use them? Anyway great vids and thanks.
Negative. " most of the research that I did before doing this said that you need to shim the stringers to keep them up off of the hull. Having the stringer sitting directly against the hull can cause "hard spots" and create stress points in certain parts of the hull. So if you put the foam squares in your fiberglass putty or whatever bedding compound you choose to use, you will reduce this risk." - jmlnk
Vladislav Simonenko No need to answer. Douglas Fir straight grain is most recommended one. I was able to salvage one larger stringer so i will be able to recreate it Keep posting videos on your project progress! Keeps many people inspired.
Vladislav Simonenko glad you were able to salvage a stringer! It is much easier to recreate from an old one. Sorry I haven't had the chance to get you those measurements.
Great video series so far. You didnt mention what kind of wood you used for the stringers and if they were pressure treated. Also, wondering why you didnt coat the stringers with resin before setting them.
Hi John, thanks for the feedback. Yeah this question has come up in the comments before, but I don't recall mentioning in the videos. I used untreated pine from my local lumberyard for the stringers. I honestly don't recall the thickness at this point, but I used my old stringers to find that number before ordering. Also I didn't soak the stringers in resin because I knew once I had them bedded, that I was going to apply resin to them before wrapping with glass. Thanks for watching!
Hey man......you saved my bacon...lol. I am cutting out rotten stringers on a 19ft Chris Craft Concept. This has been nearly a 4 year project. Inboard/ Outboard, so I upgraded the engine from a 5.0 liter, OMC setup, to a Mercruiser 5.7 Hi Performance. Got it actually running, ....took it out here ( Fort Lauderdale, Florida ) about 5 miles from shore. This is only 2 1/2 weeks ago. She ran great. So, I am thinking I am home free,....right? Just have to replace to soft rotten wood on the deck. WRONG !!!! Dude, the more I cut the decking out, and started seeing the rotten stringers, I was like .....what the #$%^*&() . Fast forward, now I have cut out a fair amount of the stringers .....and take a wild guess. I cut through the hull.....not once, but two times. I literally wanted to cry. But, seeing what a simple fix it is, by watching you helped me out more than you can imagine. Thanks again, excellent work on the Blogs, they are amazing quality, nice work. Darryl Jones Nurse, Broward County Florida
Hey JesusandDee glad to hear my videos helped out. I was pretty mad when I put the holes in my hull, but I did what I could to correct it. I think it's pretty cool that you upgraded your engine! Sorry to hear you found rotten stringers, but hang in there. You'll get through the rebuild. Thanks for the compliments; I really appreciate them!
I used a 2lb Urethane Pour In Foam Kits. I got mine from US Compsites. Here's a video I put out about the subject: th-cam.com/video/0UwQr9QrlIg/w-d-xo.html
i have some to ask im doing my stringers on my 89 procaft are the stringers have to be placed right on the hull of the boat or what or do i have to put something under them
I put foam squares beneath the stringers. I laid down my putty then pushed the squares into the putty and then sat or "bedded" my stringers. Some people don't believe in doing this, but others like myself do this to keep the stringers from sitting directly on the hull.
They were used as spacers. Controversial subject if you get to looking into stringer bedding on the internet. Some don't believe in it, others like myself, think that getting the stringers up off the hull is the way to go. Bedding with the spacers allows the compound/putty to mold around the board better and in theory helps alleviate some stress that would come from stringer board being directly melded to the hull.
what kind of foam did you used ? im about to place my stringers in my boat but i need some kind of foam to keep my stringers a bit of the polyester hull...
I just recently purchased a 17 foot 1975 Glastron v178 on the cheap, and am having to replace the stringers, transom and the floor. I am really enjoying your videos and am learning quite a bit as a first timer. There are very few remnants of the factory work. How many bulkheads would the boat typically have? Any suggestions for removing the transom without removing the cap?
Jacob Erdman congratulations on your purchase! In my boat it was going to be next to impossible to remove and install the transom without removing the cap. As far as removing it without the cap off, it could be possible by cutting it into pieces. I suggest getting the floor out first if you haven't already so you can see what you are dealing with. Good luck on the project!
+Nathan Bennett the recipe isn't something I came up with myself, but it's something I learned after doing some research. You just need to make sure you add your hardener to the resin first, then your fibers, and last your cabosil. I always count to 120 in my head while I am stirring in the hardener to make sure I get it mixed up enough. On one of my first batches I added too many fibers and it was harder to work with the putty when spreading it. Also back to the cabosil I always eyeball it and just keep adding it scoop by scoop until the consistency gets to be like icing.
Hey man, thanks for responding to my comments( more like a sad County & Western song) Anyway,...if you would like I can send you some pictures of my project. Again, I am quite sure you have alot of people talkig to you since you have made this Vlog. Just let me know how to send them. Thought for the day : Restoring boats is an adventure.....not for the faint of heart. Thanks again, Darryl
+Maxim Willwerth it was untreated pine from my local lumberyard. I read too many posts about treated needing time to dry before putting fiberglass over it. Something to keep in mind when deciding what to use. Hope this helps.
jmink Thanks for the info, I have a boat all prepped for new stringers but have yet to dive into the project. You're videos are very informative. Any tips for a first timer? Thanks!
+Maxim Willwerth you're welcome, glad I can help in some capacity. My advice for stringers is like I showed in the video, use the "pastry" bag method of applying the fiberglass putty for bedding the stringers. Also apply resin to the stringer and the fiberglass mat before laying the mat over the stringer. Finally don't be timid just jump in and knock it out! Good luck with everything.
+Adrien Joinette most of the research that I did before doing this said that you need to shim the stringers to keep them up off of the hull. Having the stringer sitting directly against the hull can cause "hard spots" and create stress points in certain parts of the hull. So if you put the foam squares in your fiberglass putty or whatever bedding compound you choose to use, you will reduce this risk.
+manuel cruz I used this www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multi-tool-68861.html and then I bought some of these blades - www.harborfreight.com/1-18-in-bi-metal-multi-tool-reduced-shank-plunge-blade-61821.html and www.harborfreight.com/3-12-in-High-Speed-Steel-Multi-Tool-Half-Moon-Blade-61815.html
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I used the "pastry bag" trick today to fill the gap around the edges of my new transom. Worked like a charm, finished off with plastic spoon. Ready for some tabbing now! Thanks for the videos.
you have some really good tips! thanks a lot. I'm doing another boat this week. I finished that glastron cv16 and now I'm doing a glastron jetflite 143. only took one day to get the cap off on this one! tomorrow I remove stringers, transom and floor. I've done stringers on a mastercraft 19' and the floor and balsa core on a hydrostream in the last few months. and a few more aluminum boat floors and a sea ray floor to name a few. its easy after some practice!
thanks homebrewman231. You're getting it done! I love working on the project, but I'm getting ready to get out in that water.
nice video !! really what I wanted to know exactly how and what to use to bed the stringers thanks for taking the time to do these
+wrench One Thanks! You're turning a corner once you get the stringers bedded, I planned and planned before that step. Sure was glad to have it behind me! Good luck with your restoration!
This is very good. will help me repair my 1989 Glassport. I have to make a box for gastank that sits under floor
Josh thank you for your videos I learned a lot and using your advise. Keep up the good work.
+Javier Polo thanks for the kind words and for watching!
G'day mate, welcome back to the project. I started watching your vids 'How to' about 2 months ago, I'm now putting the floor in today. Thanks for the tips, man I wish I knew about the putty bag, I got it everywhere spooning the putty in! Lol
Mick Black thanks for the comments! The putty bag is the most useful thing in this video! I've used putty with and without the bag and you're right it gets everywhere spooning it in. I'm glad you were able to get the floor in your boat, that's close to happening with my project. Thanks for watching!
Very informative and helpful, jmink. Thanks!
Thanks +1Calusa!
Just as a [Tip] always coat (Resin Pre-coat allow to dry) Porous materials like wood so there is minimal Absorption of Resin. This will give a better adhesion to the glass fabric, and help prevent separation from woods, metals, and plastics down the road... just a thought
Hi "jmink" .... You're the best !!! I drink your experience like a nectar .... Welcome from France !!!! My own boat is a Glastron V144 with an Evinrude 70 HP... I search for a Glastron v 156 to restore ..... Impossible to find in my country ...... GRRRRR !!!!
Thank you Philippe Eustache! Are you restoring your v144 right now?
jmink Hi. I have finished to restore last month ... But my work was so tiny, just 3 weeks to get ready for fun !!! I learn a lot of technical uses reading your video. Enjoy your restoration !!!..... I read you every time you display a video ... I beg your pardon for my poor english ..... Your far friends from France, Carole (my wife) and me (Philippe).... Bye bye.... ;)
Philippe Eustache and Carole, I'm glad to hear you finished your restoration. Thanks for following me!
I have just found your site. Outstanding work! I am in the process of restoring 1981 Astroglass f/s. I am down to removing old stringers.
Nice work, very professional.
+Awesome Unicorns thank you!
thanks for the tips I need to start on my v178
You're welcome Joe Martinez. I hope you get started soon with the v178!
Just a note on the patches, if you can see white sections in the patches then you have either air pockets or the fibre is not saturated with resin, these will be weak spots, you need a hard roller to move the air out of the matting.
Thanks for video, needed to see!
Great video man. what did you use for the putty mixture?
Hi I would like to know where you purchased the materials needed.? Where did you get that roll of fiberglass also the resin mixture and the putty glue. name and type. In the video you called items by code or number.I want to get the same material.
Thanks, Fantastic videos
Hi Eric, I previously made a Q&A video where I dove into the amount of fiberglass materials and such that I used. Here's a link th-cam.com/video/m_TeoFn0wg4/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps out.
I've tried reading down and I can see were several other people I have asked the same question and where you have responded but for some reason I'm not seeing it in my feed
Why the little styrofoam squares underneath the stringer's? I have a 1964 Crestliner Challenger open skiff that I want to put streamers down lay a floor in. I have a for sale on top of the fiberglass bench seats but that's not going to last. Plus I would like to sit lower in the boat for more stability.
Nice job with the video, again.
GlastronRules Thanks!
Hey Josh. Thanks for sharing your step by step process on restoring your Glastron. I just picked up a '75 V156 and I'm beginning the tear down of the floor. I'm just curious, could you have not ground down the remaining fiberglass after cutting it out for the stringers and then you could have used it as a slot to hold the new ones? Maybe it might have made the process a bit quicker? Thanks again for all of your great content!
Hi Dan! First of all, thank you for watching, and good luck with your boat project. To answer the question on the stringer/fiberglass work, I had some shotty fiberglass from the factory around the original stringers and I didn't want to keep any of it. In theory, your idea is a good one, but it just wasn't something I would have done with my boat.
I think I just figured it out. It's to keep the stringer from being pushed all the way down to the hull to keep some putty under the stringer.
+Mr2001cr250 you got it, that's basically the same thing I came across when researching back before I did that install.
What wood you buy for stringer?
I'm impressed.
What did you use for your stringers? A treated 2x6 or did you use something else ?
I'm still not sure on how to determine proper stringer height. Do you have to determine height factoring some kind of putty effect, and/ or, add an additional 1/4" for the spacers?
I was able to use my existing stringers to determine the height. But, if you don't have old stringers to make a template from you will need to find the line of the deck on the inside of the hull (assuming the deck is out of the boat already). Then take a board/or string, set it at that deck height, then measure down from the string to the hull at the different points. Also you'll do this at multiple points moving forward from the stern to the bow of the boat. Then you can take a board and transfer those measurements to it and it should reveal the shape of the stringer. The measurement of the spacers, plus layers of fiberglass will only come into play if your deck is going to come in contact with a pre-existing structure/obstacle.
Thanks much... I really enjoy your videos........well made and impart a lot of great info.
Is there something other than the fiberglass putty that can be used to bed stringers?
why did you use the little squares of foam? ontop the putty?
As spacers so the putty would only squash so far
Correct me if I'm wrong but do you have the stringer splice and if so why?
How do you keep the smell out of your house that looks like an attached garage resin is stinky stuff?
+casey murray if I don't leave the garage door open while working, I open it as soon as the fiberglass kicks off so that I don't stink up the house. The smell gets in a little bit, but it dissipates quickly.
Hey Josh, I am doing similar with my little 13 ft run about. How do you keep the boat in the correct shape whilst you are glassing in the new stringers? I am thinking of blocking the boat up to keep it level? What was the reason you did it the way you did? Just curious to work out the best method. I am worried about the boat warping while I am glassing it in, or glassing it into a shape that is warped. Thanks in advance.
Hi there, I'd like to know the reason for using the foam squares under the stringers. Are they necessary? Is there a forum on iboats that explains why to use them? Anyway great vids and thanks.
Negative.
" most of the research that I did before doing this said that you need to shim the stringers to keep them up off of the hull. Having the stringer sitting directly against the hull can cause "hard spots" and create stress points in certain parts of the hull. So if you put the foam squares in your fiberglass putty or whatever bedding compound you choose to use, you will reduce this risk." - jmlnk
what type of the wood you have used for new stringers and what sizes?
Vladislav Simonenko No need to answer. Douglas Fir straight grain is most recommended one. I was able to salvage one larger stringer so i will be able to recreate it
Keep posting videos on your project progress! Keeps many people inspired.
Vladislav Simonenko glad you were able to salvage a stringer! It is much easier to recreate from an old one. Sorry I haven't had the chance to get you those measurements.
Great video series so far. You didnt mention what kind of wood you used for the stringers and if they were pressure treated. Also, wondering why you didnt coat the stringers with resin before setting them.
Hi John, thanks for the feedback. Yeah this question has come up in the comments before, but I don't recall mentioning in the videos. I used untreated pine from my local lumberyard for the stringers. I honestly don't recall the thickness at this point, but I used my old stringers to find that number before ordering. Also I didn't soak the stringers in resin because I knew once I had them bedded, that I was going to apply resin to them before wrapping with glass. Thanks for watching!
Hey man......you saved my bacon...lol. I am cutting out rotten stringers on a 19ft Chris Craft Concept. This has been nearly a 4 year project. Inboard/ Outboard, so I upgraded the engine from a 5.0 liter, OMC setup, to a Mercruiser 5.7 Hi Performance. Got it actually running, ....took it out here ( Fort Lauderdale, Florida ) about 5 miles from shore. This is only 2 1/2 weeks ago. She ran great. So, I am thinking I am home free,....right? Just have to replace to soft rotten wood on the deck. WRONG !!!! Dude, the more I cut the decking out, and started seeing the rotten stringers, I was like .....what the #$%^*&() . Fast forward, now I have cut out a fair amount of the stringers .....and take a wild guess. I cut through the hull.....not once, but two times. I literally wanted to cry. But, seeing what a simple fix it is, by watching you helped me out more than you can imagine. Thanks again, excellent work on the Blogs, they are amazing quality, nice work.
Darryl Jones
Nurse, Broward County Florida
Hey JesusandDee glad to hear my videos helped out. I was pretty mad when I put the holes in my hull, but I did what I could to correct it. I think it's pretty cool that you upgraded your engine! Sorry to hear you found rotten stringers, but hang in there. You'll get through the rebuild. Thanks for the compliments; I really appreciate them!
Thanks for video, what type of project foam did u apply? PVC or polyurethane? density？
I used a 2lb Urethane Pour In Foam Kits. I got mine from US Compsites. Here's a video I put out about the subject: th-cam.com/video/0UwQr9QrlIg/w-d-xo.html
jmink jmink Thanks. The 2X4 foam square between the putty and wood stringer. Could you let me know the link on the Lowe’s?
i have some to ask im doing my stringers on my 89 procaft are the stringers have to be placed right on the hull of the boat or what or do i have to put something under them
I put foam squares beneath the stringers. I laid down my putty then pushed the squares into the putty and then sat or "bedded" my stringers. Some people don't believe in doing this, but others like myself do this to keep the stringers from sitting directly on the hull.
What was the meaning of putting in the small pieces of foam
They were used as spacers. Controversial subject if you get to looking into stringer bedding on the internet. Some don't believe in it, others like myself, think that getting the stringers up off the hull is the way to go. Bedding with the spacers allows the compound/putty to mold around the board better and in theory helps alleviate some stress that would come from stringer board being directly melded to the hull.
what kind of foam did you used ? im about to place my stringers in my boat but i need some kind of foam to keep my stringers a bit of the polyester hull...
It was just a square piece of project foam from Lowe's.
+jmink and you think that foam will do just fine ? it has to absorb the impact from (big) waves..
How did you find the angle you need to cut to match the hull?
+TheFlash I used a digital angle finder.
I just recently purchased a 17 foot 1975 Glastron v178 on the cheap, and am having to replace the stringers, transom and the floor. I am really enjoying your videos and am learning quite a bit as a first timer. There are very few remnants of the factory work. How many bulkheads would the boat typically have? Any suggestions for removing the transom without removing the cap?
Jacob Erdman congratulations on your purchase! In my boat it was going to be next to impossible to remove and install the transom without removing the cap. As far as removing it without the cap off, it could be possible by cutting it into pieces. I suggest getting the floor out first if you haven't already so you can see what you are dealing with. Good luck on the project!
What kind of fiber glass putty did you use on the stringers?
+Nathan Bennett I mixed up 435 Polyester Resin with Hardener, Cabosil, and 1/4" Chopped Strand Fibers.
Thanks you. How did you come up with your putty recipe? I am not questioning your recipe just better understanding the process.
+Nathan Bennett the recipe isn't something I came up with myself, but it's something I learned after doing some research. You just need to make sure you add your hardener to the resin first, then your fibers, and last your cabosil. I always count to 120 in my head while I am stirring in the hardener to make sure I get it mixed up enough. On one of my first batches I added too many fibers and it was harder to work with the putty when spreading it. Also back to the cabosil I always eyeball it and just keep adding it scoop by scoop until the consistency gets to be like icing.
+jmink thank you
+Nathan Bennett no problem, good luck with your stringers!
Hey man, thanks for responding to my comments( more like a sad County & Western song)
Anyway,...if you would like I can send you some pictures of my project. Again, I am quite sure you have alot of people talkig to you since you have made this Vlog. Just let me know how to send them.
Thought for the day :
Restoring boats is an adventure.....not for the faint of heart.
Thanks again,
Darryl
JesusandDee do you have a flickr or photobucket account? I upload my photos to my flickr account then share them and it works well.
I have a 74 Glastron V-156 need transom work
That should be pretty similar to mine.
What type of wood did you use for the stringer?
+Maxim Willwerth it was untreated pine from my local lumberyard. I read too many posts about treated needing time to dry before putting fiberglass over it. Something to keep in mind when deciding what to use. Hope this helps.
jmink Thanks for the info, I have a boat all prepped for new stringers but have yet to dive into the project. You're videos are very informative. Any tips for a first timer? Thanks!
+Maxim Willwerth you're welcome, glad I can help in some capacity. My advice for stringers is like I showed in the video, use the "pastry" bag method of applying the fiberglass putty for bedding the stringers. Also apply resin to the stringer and the fiberglass mat before laying the mat over the stringer. Finally don't be timid just jump in and knock it out! Good luck with everything.
Why did you use the foam ?
I used the foam in the fiberglass putty/bedding of the stringers to lift the stringers up off the hull.
why is it necessary to do that, does it add strength or better covers the stringers?
+Adrien Joinette most of the research that I did before doing this said that you need to shim the stringers to keep them up off of the hull. Having the stringer sitting directly against the hull can cause "hard spots" and create stress points in certain parts of the hull. So if you put the foam squares in your fiberglass putty or whatever bedding compound you choose to use, you will reduce this risk.
Makes sense and I'm glad I asked as I will be at that stage soon, thank you!
You're welcome and good luck!
josh I bet your an engineer
name of the electric cutting the stringer tks
+manuel cruz I used this www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multi-tool-68861.html and then I bought some of these blades - www.harborfreight.com/1-18-in-bi-metal-multi-tool-reduced-shank-plunge-blade-61821.html and www.harborfreight.com/3-12-in-High-Speed-Steel-Multi-Tool-Half-Moon-Blade-61815.html
Ebay sale the tools??? Habor freight shipping to p.r??? Tks
+manuel cruz I believe you can find them on Ebay, I bought mine at my local Harbor Freight store. I am not familiar with either's shipping.
jmink for what is the pieces of foam in the stringer??
Great videos but I hate the swoosh between scenes. PTSD I guess, lol.