I tested the runout on all 8 of my Shopsmith sanding discs and the runout ranged from 7.5 to 48 thousandths of an inch. Using sandnding disk to true your table will probably make it worst. Check the runout on all of your saw blades and use the truest one to set the table.
Using the sanding disc is quite literally the only method to do it. As I mentioned in my videos, I have more than one sanding disc. Once you have detailed measurements across the entire surface, it doesn't really matter how imperfect it is. You have all the information you need to reference the alignment.
The plate is warped, but it is extremely unlikely that you end up with only one high spot, and you do use them on both sides. The point was that the scratch method is too low resolution. That's why I recommend using a digital micrometer and index the entire face of the plate The more data points you have the higher your accuracy.
Are you setting the table or trying to prove the disk is not flat? I am confused. Pick one point on the disk, use it on both sides and tighten the table. If you are off by a few thousandths, it will not even be noticeable on a wood project.
Demonstrating that there is far too much variation within the method itself. A couple thousandths over a 12 inch span can have a compounding effect especially if you are cutting small blocks that are being put together for example. And I also used both miters set to the same high point, and place the second at the back. The disc was rotated each high point went past both rods. I can tell you from having index the surface of my disk they are with in 0-.0005" according to a micrometer. There are also a couple thousands worth of movement possible within the miter disc and the spindl. Not to mention the fact that in order for the rod to squeak to any significant degree it is applying enough pressure to deflect the disc by at least a thousandth. Plus there's as much as a thousands degree of variance within a 16th" of the edge. None of which is information that would have been readily accessible without electronic measurement. The ones you have this information you have to question whether or not the traditional points of reference are truly the best options. I am sure there are statistically a lot of people who can tune a guitar by ear, but I assure you there are far more people who use a tuner. I intend to demonstrate a method of locating sections of the surface that have much higher tolerances in my next video.
Snugging up one of the bolts was a workaround to do with the fact that the rear trundle holes were too small. However have not been able to find any evidence that any of those people ever measured the bolt pattern on the bottom of their table. I did and mine were wider. I work through a variety of methods that did not make camera, even this video was long for what it covered. But one bolt is not enough to be able to tilt the table and tighten it the rest of the way. There were however posts about people having trundles corrected by ShopSmith as a defect.
I tested the runout on all 8 of my Shopsmith sanding discs and the runout ranged from 7.5 to 48 thousandths of an inch. Using sandnding disk to true your table will probably make it worst. Check the runout on all of your saw blades and use the truest one to set the table.
Using the sanding disc is quite literally the only method to do it. As I mentioned in my videos, I have more than one sanding disc. Once you have detailed measurements across the entire surface, it doesn't really matter how imperfect it is. You have all the information you need to reference the alignment.
Shouldn't you use the same spot on the plate on both sides? What if the plate is warped.
The plate is warped, but it is extremely unlikely that you end up with only one high spot, and you do use them on both sides. The point was that the scratch method is too low resolution. That's why I recommend using a digital micrometer and index the entire face of the plate The more data points you have the higher your accuracy.
How many angels dance on the head of that pin?
As many as is needed to make a point stick. If you think it's a waste, it must be of yours become it wasn't of mine.
@@kludgescraftsplus8631 Just joking man, good video.
Are you setting the table or trying to prove the disk is not flat? I am confused. Pick one point on the disk, use it on both sides and tighten the table. If you are off by a few thousandths, it will not even be noticeable on a wood project.
Demonstrating that there is far too much variation within the method itself. A couple thousandths over a 12 inch span can have a compounding effect especially if you are cutting small blocks that are being put together for example. And I also used both miters set to the same high point, and place the second at the back. The disc was rotated each high point went past both rods. I can tell you from having index the surface of my disk they are with in 0-.0005" according to a micrometer. There are also a couple thousands worth of movement possible within the miter disc and the spindl. Not to mention the fact that in order for the rod to squeak to any significant degree it is applying enough pressure to deflect the disc by at least a thousandth. Plus there's as much as a thousands degree of variance within a 16th" of the edge. None of which is information that would have been readily accessible without electronic measurement. The ones you have this information you have to question whether or not the traditional points of reference are truly the best options. I am sure there are statistically a lot of people who can tune a guitar by ear, but I assure you there are far more people who use a tuner. I intend to demonstrate a method of locating sections of the surface that have much higher tolerances in my next video.
Use a saw blade color one tooth and use the same tooth on both sides. Don't over complicate it.
My understanding is, you want to snug up one of the bolts.
Snugging up one of the bolts was a workaround to do with the fact that the rear trundle holes were too small. However have not been able to find any evidence that any of those people ever measured the bolt pattern on the bottom of their table. I did and mine were wider. I work through a variety of methods that did not make camera, even this video was long for what it covered. But one bolt is not enough to be able to tilt the table and tighten it the rest of the way. There were however posts about people having trundles corrected by ShopSmith as a defect.