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Well that was a long time ago but I can tell you having gone from the OEM long pipes, to the short TOR pipes that they really weren't that loud. I also tried the long pipes with just elbows and no cross pipe, the electrical conduit trick. It was pretty raspy, and I didn't like losing structural support. I then went for a while with a u-shaped stainless pipe with horn exits. This is found on eBay and in some euro tuner shops. It needed to be heavily modified because of the horns were welded over the top of small exhaust holes. That removed basically all the engine drone, but it still wasn't the most effective scavenging setup. I recently came across a version that was more like the elbows but with a straight h pipe. The elbows are full diameter, and the h pipe is welded on with small holes connecting the two sides. They could be larger but they are basically impossible to modify where they are. It does however scavenge much better and is not as raspy as just the elbows would be alone. Plus it has structural connections. I'm also done more work to the exhaust before any of this widening the size of the hole and developing removable silencer tips. Pretty happy with it now it kept the thump, removed the rasp, and improved scavenging. I know the scavenging improved because I have a dynojet auto tuner, and my most recent addition is the logging pod.

It's a tacking hammer for small nails. Yes that is something that is used in shoemaking but it was also used in upholstery work and a lot of other things before reliable utility utility staplers were created.

Because they are men. They're they're the manly men of the previous generation, who give me odd looks because I'm a domestic dad, who doesn't follow sports and whose favorite activities are dancing and roller skating. Have quite literally had trash talking comments posted to my videos from people whose channels are exclusively shopsmith. When I started posting comments tearing apart their videos they very quickly started deleting their comments from my video and mine from there's.

Yeah the acetone didn't work out but something like isopropyl alcohol probably would have been a better choice. The table service has held up to basically everything except hammering because it physically damages the chip board.

I'm not really sure what particular part you referring to as being true. Especially since this comment is on a video that I don't believe has any statements or complaints about the spindle moving ( it's an old video). Even more confused by the fact that the spindle is in fact designed to move hence the handle. Are you referring to removing the slight amount of play, if so on what axis?

What I should have said...was.. In addition to this ... I have found that the main SPINDLE can move. So While you are quite correct Before your adjustment to anything on the SS..... BE AWARE that you need to look at the main spindle FIRST

I don't recall and cannot find any place in this video where I say that the quill lever is a design flaw. In fact I comment that my other piece of equipment has no problems to handle coming on and off. The only thing I failed to say directly is that the previous owners simply abused the quill. I'm aware that it is a removable handle by design, hence the comment about not being able to get it off and put it on the other side. It was merely an observation of the ongoing list of problems I had with my secondhand piece of equipment. These videos are relatively old now, and the equipment has been up to snuff for some time now. Thanks for watching, and leaving a comment.

@@kludgescraftsplus8631 OK, yeah I wasn't sure if you are familiar with how that lever could be removed and can even be put on the other side of the machine depending on if someone is right-handed or left-handed. Obviously it's supposed to come off easier then what it was looking like. Thanks for your response.

Honestly the view response for this video was so slow and low it just didn't seem like anybody cared. It's been a tortoise of a video. The samples are still intact, and I've had no problems with the table other than places why hammered on stuff causing the osb to flake slightly. I'll try to see what I can throw together.

Using the sanding disc is quite literally the only method to do it. As I mentioned in my videos, I have more than one sanding disc. Once you have detailed measurements across the entire surface, it doesn't really matter how imperfect it is. You have all the information you need to reference the alignment.

There is no control panel that you can access from the front of the oven. There is no reason to cut anything to get that open. Unplugging the oven and replugging it in has done nothing? A lot of times if the control board is working and locked as a safety resetting the power will resolve.

Does the control panel turn on at all? I found a forum or somebody messes using a coat hanger. And yes I can confirm that there is enough room for a coat hanger. The mechanical lock that engages during oven cleaning is on the right side, it does feel very stiff. If nothing lights up on the panel I would not break this lock. If something else going on and all of the control boards are on the back of the oven. You might find yourself damaging something that didn't need to be replaced. If the panel lights up attempt to put it into self-cleaning mode and then cancel it. That's a disengaged the lock if it works. The mechanism if it is faulty is not easy to get to. Essentially it's under the stove top, and cannot be removed from the inside. There are however two screws that need to be removed with the door open to remove the assembly.

Thanks for your quick reply. Power surge from thunder/lighting took out the board, but not the thermal fuse. After many hours I found a video of how to unlock the oven door manually. Again thanks much.

@@JJ-xq8nm I'm in the greater Houston area I just went through Beryl and 65 hours with no power. That was stressful enough the first thing I wanted to do for my family was cook a good meal on my stove. Stressing about getting it fixed is the worst. I hope you find an affordable part.

True that. Appreciate you taking the time to drop a comment.

I completely reconstructed the entire thing. At first I made it spin with each independently. Replaced the lower bearings with thrust bearings aka pancake bearings. That helped him spin smoother, but it's really just a terrible design with each sitting on top of the other they aren't stiff enough and there was too much lateral movement in the wind. Each one sat on top of the other they were never shaped symmetrically. There was simply too many variables. So I pulled it apart yet again, and went with a brass tube you can see in the center that supports all three on one axle. That brass tube spins around the original metal shaft. That tube sits on top of a thrust bearing to support the downward load, and one of the original radial bearings is at the top to compensate for lateral loads from the wind. Those are both protected from the elements with bearing covers to keep them dry. I took this thrust bearing, radial axle bearing concept and developed it to a larger scale for my wind spinner flower. It lives on the same fence a few feet away. I have videos on that as well.

@@kludgescraftsplus8631ok see this is the info I needed thank you! I will try and redesign mine as well. I’d love to get this thing moving vs it being a still life.

Thanks. I'm still trying to find and igniter that lasts as long as the original. I have just replaced my igniter the third time. Unfortunately it's the kind of thing you find when you're trying to cook a meal. Considering keeping an extra on hand as they all seem to be delayed in shipping when I order them.

@@kludgescraftsplus8631good call. I just replaced it and works fine. Really easy with your instructions.

I've gotten everything dialed in except the lathe, I have not done the tip alignment yet. Despite the fact that it seems to be common knowledge that there are a whole bunch of these old pieces of equipment that have problems original to their manufacturer and sale, I get pestered by shopsmith specific content creators occasionally. Posting comments that I'm whining, or don't know what I'm doing, or that shopsmith doesn't have that problem. Even that I should call shop Smith customer service for a third hand 30-year old piece of equipment. Thanks for the view and comment.

Yeah shopsmith I have a third hand shopsmith that's more than 20 years old. It's been disassembled by previous owners but I want you to solve my problems for free. Yeah that's a fantastic suggestion sir. Tell me how much did you pay them for your shopsmith hat that you wear in your videos?

So you want me to just keep my mouth shut and ignore the fact that there are thousands of units out there with these problems that have since been solved? And then what all those people who purchase the used unit don't have a resource? My equipment is fixed and has no need for further service because I figured out how to take care of it. How about the fact that they still have an updated their actual manuals for download the illustrations are outdated? Do you have anything to say about that?

Perhaps of there were something to support the object while the young stalk was coaxed around it. The stem is still very small to be that playable.

The plate is warped, but it is extremely unlikely that you end up with only one high spot, and you do use them on both sides. The point was that the scratch method is too low resolution. That's why I recommend using a digital micrometer and index the entire face of the plate The more data points you have the higher your accuracy.

Thanks TnG. The video hasn't gotten a lot of traffic, but I really enjoy the project. It's definitely an upgrade over what I watched all the Numbers twitch streams on. One of the voice coil wires on the subwoofer had broken loose (dual 4ohm) and needed to be resoldered. Everything's not operating at two ohms. I will eventually come back around to making replacement boxes for the speakers. I'd like to Make them one unit and add some more mid high speakers from the head unit. For now it just makes everything else I do on the garage, or even front yard, more enjoyable. It will fit through a doorway and I have brought it into the house for some extreme listening sessions. The battery is going to be probably $500 and up, and is more of a long term goal. I don't exactly have a crowd of people waiting to hear it portable.

Well brother it sounds like you need some assistance. Cuz it's not a $3,000 waist but it's certainly requires commitment to not being defeated. But if you're defeated then it's probably a $1500 to $2,000 waste, cuz you can get at least a grand out of it.

YOU CAN’T FIX STUPID…… YOU CAN’T FIX AN ALREADY FAILED PRODUCT. YOU TOUCH "this” and “that goes out. You touch “that” and “this” goes out. Stupid is as stupid does…..

If you're inclined and have the money I highly recommend the square rails over the round rails. Yes the table is definitely worth the upgrade.

I haven't made any further changes to the unit itself. I still use the cyclonic separator for the bulk of the material. I haven't seen the point in making any for the modifications because the greatest failing is with the effectiveness of the saw shroud on the Shop Smith.

Absolutely. I knew when I couldn't find anything clearly describing how it should be done, that it was something I should do.

The description has a link to a selection of igniters for this stove on Amazon. NX58K9850SS. I had to replace it again recently. It lasted about 10 months. I will qualify that by saying that I use my oven daily. So the igniter gets a lot of work turning on every time it lights the fire. The first one I replaced was visibly melted through on the element. This last one looked completely fine but did not test with my voltmeter to have continuity anymore.

If you're igniter is working you will see it glowing trying to get hot enough to ignite the gas. The gas will not turn on until the thermostat there reads the igniter as being hot enough.

@@kludgescraftsplus8631 thanks. I will remove the old one to make sure the connector is the same and mounting tab is in the same position. There appears to be different connectors on some of the replacement igniters....

@@kludgescraftsplus8631 there is no glow coming from the igniter...

@@Teds455 igniters themselves are fairly generic. Some of the kids will come with the accessories to cut off the connector and go with a twisted wire. It's something that would be for other models.

As many as is needed to make a point stick. If you think it's a waste, it must be of yours become it wasn't of mine.

@@kludgescraftsplus8631 Just joking man, good video.

Sodium silica and PVA really didn't mix well. The PVA clumped up like cottage cheese. The acetone didn't then the PVA either. One of the comments suggested something like isopropyl alcohol as it is a hydrophilic solvent. The table has been in use for some time now I have done a variety of wet things on it and the surface is unblemished.

If he's an experienced mechanic it's probably not much of a problem unless it's something he's never done before. I don't know about you but I don't have a lifetime experience working on shopsmiths. This is why it's all the more disgraceful that the people at the factory who have collectively years of experience working with them still can't get it right.

Yet the Old guard has responded to my videos as being pointless and clear indications that I'm doing it wrong. As far as I am aware none of them have attempted to apply my indexing technique to their own equipment to verify the alignment, or counter my statement.

This is the reason why I highly recommend using a micrometer to index your sanding disc. If you know what all the relative heights are and leave them micrometer on the table while you're adjusting you can see even the most my new changes. I also considered using something like an engine gasket caulk. Allowing me to soft set them in place before tightening them down. I never came to this because I was able to see the changes as I tighten them with the micrometer and adjust as I went. I want to point out that you may be chasing things that are not related to the table. Once you get that table relatively straight and all of the tables aligned I would flip it on his head and make sure that the legs are square to the top. You just don't realize how much of a difference that will make. If the two rails the table are on are even slightly askew every adjustment will move it on more than one plane.

It's very close. Mine is about an eighth of an inch apart. Because it is just a nut and bolt my advice is to rotate the bolt to a different orientation such that the nut is tightened in a different position. Essentially moving the points of the nut away from the narrowest point of the gap. I will guess that when you were standing at the front of the machine you cannot get it to move towards the power head. If that continues to be an issue then your other option is to move the front away from the power head into alignment with the back. Unfortunately this seems to be a common problem for anybody attempting the rail upgrade or even trying to really use the device.

I had absolutely no indications of a problem with the work I've done. I will tempted to get in there soon and disassemble it. I too am curious about what happened to all the parts inside as they cured.

I am sorry to hear that. I still have my fax pins on those skates with no problem. I got a new pair of skates last year and haven't used them since. However I will ask if you ever stored your skates your vehicle and hot weather, or used any kind of cleaner other than water or isopropyl alcohol? I worked in a skating rink for many years through high school and college and various jobs from concessions to actual building maintenance as I grew older. Assembly of new skates, and maintenance of rentals or something I did over the entire course of my employment. They're are a few things that will destroy urethane. Anything I wanted to drive home about my video is just make sure you check what you purchase before you walk out the door. I was very happy with what I had in the long run but it was quite the pain to get there.

Thanks

Because of the video demonstrates the sanding disc is not flat. The video simply about finding the most accurate points of reference, which requires accurate measuring tools. Doing a four corner square cut to verify blade alignment will show you just how drastically out of alignment it can be without accurate measurements. Even if it's acceptable for a saw, extending the axis of the quill in a straight line still needs to be able to line up with your leg then 5 ft away. Also once you make sure that your blade is perfectly straight in a line it will also let you verify whether the rest of the frame isn't alignment. The shop Smiths were partially assemble in a factory, and in many cases have had multiple owners shuffling them around screwing up the alignment if it ever was. If you do far enough you can even find videos put out by shot Smith about replacing the way tubes. They discuss replacing them for free because so many were damaged by misassembly in the factory. There are a host of things that can lead to inaccuracy that a square would not detect, thicknesses in the microns that are only amplified the further from the center they are measured. In the end every user has to decide for themselves whether or not the instruction shop Smith have provided is sufficient. There are a lot of quote unquote experts who won't give this method the time of day because it bucks tradition, and they have incomes very closely tied to network of passionate owners. I would remove the video if anybody had ever actually demonstrated how my methods are wrong. Instead all I get is well why won't the old way work well enough. I don't know about you but I can't live with things that can be fixed without trying to fix them.

Thanks, it's a cheap led bar light from Harbor Freight and some threaded pipe. The pvc coupler is to raise the light as high as possible under the open garage door, on the precut pipe, and add a slip washer. It's all screwed to a 2*4 to brace the offset weight and distribute it across several joists.

Sell what?

@@kludgescraftsplus8631 the unit. That's awesome.

Well that would be nice, and I appreciate the encouragement, but I'd say that the view count is a fairly strong indicator of interest. I have always been interested in vintage console equipment. I suppose I would have put the equipment into that if I had a nice enough husk to start with.

I'm only a woodworker in as far as anyone project requires. It's a functional display. The chest has its own "furniture dolly" and now lives right next to the door to my garage for easy access to the tools inside. It doubles as a bench for me, and is a permanent fixture in my mind next to my garage stereo and toolbox. It's visible in that condition in one of my most recent videos re my aforementioned stereo.

No it is not a true shopsmith. It is a clone made from the original castings. The shopsmiths were never cast in the United States. They were also imported but with higher quality control. The castings are close enough that I was able to replace my speed controller knob with a shopsmith legitimate replacement. In some regards The big Joe is superior. It has a more advanced power switch with safeties keys and lockouts that prevent it from being accidentally turned on if plugged in because the switch is in the wrong place. It is essentially OSHA compliant for a workspace.

Absolutely!

Yep and I'm going to guess by the condition of all those things still organized in together that he probably never actually used any of them or even really verified that the machine was aligned. Sort of like a car back then nobody read the manual and they all expected it to drive straight.

Those are all viable options to improve the unit. However if I had the space for a permanent ducted installation I would sooner construct or purchase a Clear View centrifugal separator for its superior performance.

Yep that's a common thing, but I have a small cramped two-car garage. There's no room or need for all that permanent piping.

I filled it myself out of a can from the store. It had lived its life, can only last three more days after this video.

No the price is significantly more than the broiler igniter

I believe I stayed in the video that I was not certain, based on what I can see of the end of it's assumed plug it does not appear the same. I guess I will find out if it ever dies.

So far I have no reason to believe that the dust collector vacuum is the problem. In truth I believe it is the saw shroud that is terribly inefficient, but I can't say for sure because I haven't been using it with another saw.