Here's another big thanks for the great instructions! Saved me over $200 by doing it myself. As in many of the comments, it is much easier to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter onto the gas bar by removing the entire gas bar first. 2 screws below and one at the oven front holding it on. Then do the swap out on your counter. No one seems sure whether it's important to match up where the new leads go, or whether they're interchangeable. I kept it the same as the original one. One lead was a flat clip, and the other was a box clip. Job done in 35 minutes! Thanks Tomahawk!
Thank you! I watched your video, bought the heating element on Amazon. It took about an hour of labor (30 minutes to remove the 2 stupid bolts) but our oven is heating again! Thank you for your very clear and informative video.
+Otter Otter Glad it helped you. A couple years later I had to replace the ignitor again. That time I learned how to easily remove the bolts. Too bad you didn't see the link to Part 2. In case you ever have to replace it again - check out this video. th-cam.com/video/HRzW6a50BjM/w-d-xo.html. Also - please consider leaving a donation via button my channel page - 50% of all donations go straight to organizations that help people in earth's most dire circumstances Build Better Lives by solving problems like food, water, and shelter. tomahawkdiy.com/about
OMG! Thank you sooooo much for this! Mine ended up being that safety valve switch. My wife dropped a spatula behind the stove so I moved it out and the oven stopped working. I replaced the igniter and the gas valve switch. Ugh I knew it was something simple. You are a saint!
Thank you so much for your video. We had a F9 error on our LG double gas oven. I was glad I finally found your video because when I did a search for f9 error it did not address this situation at all. Your demonstration and explanation was exactly what was wrong. You saved the day - thank you!
+Dennis Anderson So glad to hear it helped you! No pressure, but donations are always appreciated. www.paypal.me/TomahawkDIY or Venmo @TomahawkDIY if you want to send one. 50% of donations are sent to help people Build Better Lives in some of earths most dire circumstances (TomahawkDIY.com/about).
Wow, you saved Thanksgiving! This showed exactly what I needed. I was able to eliminate the hassle of removing the ignitor bolts by disconnecting the burner tube. Just one screw in the front by the oven door and the whole works came right out.
You did a great job here and I haven't seen part 2 yet, but I just wanted to mention that when your reconnecting the new ignitor wires with the old connecters ,... you must use a special wire cap that is ceramic. A regular plastic wire cap could melt and catch fire. The ceramic ones are made for high heat.
GREAT VIDEO!! Now I can get back to baking for my kids and husband and not have to pay for some one to come out and charge me an arm and leg ^_^ Thanks your a life saver and saying what everything was while you were working helped me alot too.
Thnx so much. very helpful.my problem was the "safety switch". u saved me at least 50bucks in home visit fees plus any other charges. its been 2 years since i used my stove and it was jus a lil switch.AMAZING!
Question was asked How do you get the two screws under the ignitor out!? My GE (Model JGBP30GEP1AD) had screws and not the bolts. Solution. That gas tube, simply comes out if you remove the screw located on the bracket (mark 3:43 in the video at the bottom of the screen you will see the head of that little bolt sticking out of the burner/tube)) attached to the front. In the back of the oven,(if you oven has the defuser plate then you will also have the bracket) just move the burner/ fuel tube to the side of the defuser bracket and lift up where you will find that the igniter will come up with burner/the fuel tube. Just make sure when you replace, that the fuel tube fits over the brass gas intake in the back of the broiler area. Gas naturally rises up through the burner tube, and if doesn't go into the tube, you could have a a major gas leak.
Thank you for the video. We found the problem in our oven. It was the switch that was accidentally turned off while we were doing the cleaning! We got a hint from you video and found the little mistake. :) We were almost about to order a new igniter.
My oven would only light sometimes or there would be a long delay when it did light. I replaced the igniter and it has lit right up four times in a row. Thank you for taking the time to post this video.
Thanks for your help. Boththe broiler and then the oven stopped working. The broiler igniter was bad. I also think that the gas buildup led to a shut down of the gas switch. I got the oven working by fliiping the switch and now I'm ordering the new igniter. Thanks again, this was empowering!
Hey Tom, I have the exact same Hotpoint model -- with the exact same problem (oven ignitor . . . broiler works). Thank you for your trouble-shooting. Way better than the GE manual and site! :)
+Daniel Allen Glad to hear it helped!! Now you have the chance to help people in some of earths most dire circumstances solve a problem such as no clean water, no shelter, no medical care, hunger, etc.. TomahawkDIY is a business with a mission. No pressure, but donations are always appreciated. www.paypal.me/TomahawkDIY or Venmo @TomahawkDIY if you want to send one. 50% of donations are sent to help people Build Better Lives in some of earths most dire circumstances (TomahawkDIY.com/about).
This is a great video. It was exactly the same problem as my gas oven. It was easy to follow along and fix my oven. I had to order my part with Whirlpool. Once again good job Tomahawk DIY.
Perfect video! Very clear, and concise. That GE just happens to pretty much the same range/ oven as my Hotpoint, and I am having exactly this problem. The only difference between the 2 is the controll panel. Lol This helped know how to remove the igniter. Thank you!
It was a real pain. I used a socket without the handle attached and just twisted with my fingers. Not easy to do. I think I tried using a very small socket set and a very small pair of pliers before realizing I needed to do it with my fingers.
Thank you for your video. I watched videos parts 1 & 2 and was able to figure out the igniter needed to be replaced. I was able to replace the igniter using the steps in your videos.
Thanks man for the video! My wife told me that the oven wasn't heating and I'm thinking oh crap! But this may be my problem so I'm about to check it out now.
Thanks Tomahawk!My Whirlpool has been broke for months. Followed just what you did here and it was the bottom ignighter alright. Now off to the store in the morning to get the part.Thanks a lot and have a great day.
I was so excited to see the oven matched mine. I already knew the igniter was the problem from other videos. The problem I’m having is I don’t know how to get the screws holding it in place out. They are underneath and hard to access. You Didn’t Show Or Even Fully Explain How You Got Them Out. What Did the tool look like? How did you get underneath screws? How did you get the screws back in? Who puts screws underneath anyway? Poor design GE.
Sorry it didn't show removing the screws in the first video. But I made one that properly shows how to get at the screws. Here: th-cam.com/video/HRzW6a50BjM/w-d-xo.html
It is much easier to disconnect the entire gas manifold by removing the two screws underneath on the manifold clamp and the one screw in the top at the front of the manifold. Then with the whole manifold unit removed one can quickly change the igniter. Splicing of the electric lines may be necessary with the use of ceramic wire nuts, usually provided with the igniter kit. The screws were underneath because the correct way to do this is to take the manifold out for ease of repair and inspection for possible other issues.
Great Video...I am having a problem with the exact model you have in the video. The only difference is that neither broiler or oven won't ignite. Stove top works fine. What should I be focusing on?
for those of you who are having a difficult time removing the bolts on the igniter... Follow the gas tub down below (where the electrical connections are). Remove the two bolts on the back of the oven that holds the gas tube in place. Once these are gone go back inside the oven. There is a single tube near the front of the tube. Once these three screws (2 below and at the rear of the drawer area and one at the front of the gas tube inside the oven) are removed the entire gas tube with the igniter attached can be lifted up and out of the oven. Turn the tube over and the screws are easy to remove.
Ok... I'm in a bit of a thing I think. I cut the snap connector off too close to be able to splice it together with the cap. Is the other end that is connected to the oven a "hot" lead? If not, can I cut off that other end of the snap connector and use the cap to put the two wires together without that connector? Or should I find another matching connector and put my ignitor wire in through that and then snap it together as originally set up? If it IS a hot lead.. would unplugging the oven be sufficient to be able to cut that wire?
+amarieigc It's a bit difficult to troubleshoot without seeing your situation. This other video of mine might help: th-cam.com/video/HRzW6a50BjM/w-d-xo.html Also, you can always turn off power to your oven at the circuit breaker. Good luck!
At 5:36 you saved me soooooo much trouble! Went from using an electric oven to a gas oven, how was I supposed to know there's a switch down there?! Hahaha. Thank you so much!
Hi there. Have a GE Profile XL 44 that often i cannot get to heat much past 375/400. Ignitor goes on, burner burns blue. I noticed that when it gets to that high 300s low 400s range, the blue flame actually will at ties flicker or get smaller. Any tips?
I have a 20 year old GE Profile gas range. The burners work fine, the panel lights up when I turn the oven on,and the broiler works, but the oven doesn't heat. Given the age of the appliance, is it worth paying for a service call/parts/labor. Watching the video it may be the oven igniter.
This is helpful. Thank you. My oven (Amani ACF3375AW/PACF3375AW1)...the broiler seems to kick on, but the oven ignitor does not even get warm. Does this still troubleshoot as an ignitor issue to you? I would like to be certain (ish) before I buy the new part. Thank you.
+sonnyboywannabe I'm not an expert appliance repair person, but if the broiler is working, but the main oven is not working, it sounds pretty similar to the situation I found with this oven. So, I wouldn't be surprised if it's the ignitor. Also - be sure to look at Part 2 of this video - it'll save you time if unscrewing the ignitor is similar to this one. Good luck!
A viewer asked: need help with oven burner not lighting igniter works fine, broiler works fine. oven burner wont light. Response: be certain that both ignitors work - in this oven there is one for the top (broiler) and one for the bottom (oven). If both are working, it may be an issue with the gas line to the oven burner or a problem with the controls or valve that supplies gas to the oven burner when you turn it on. Good luck!
Hey Tomahawk. Thanks for this very helpful video! You've perfectly diagnosed the problem. The switch next to the regulator (located at the back/bottom, behind the bottom drawer) somehow got flipped to the off position. When I tried to flip the switch back to the on position, it came off in my hand (didn't break, just came off in tact). So now the spring valve is shut, and I can't reconnect the switch to open it back up. Any suggestions?
I have replaced the igniter and the safety valve and then reset the plunger on the gas regulator, on a Frigidaire gas oven. I am able to get a low blue flame on the oven burners, but it does not respond to the temperature setting on the dial. What should I look at next? Would this be the temperature sensor or the regulator? The surface burners on top work well.
Thanu this tottaly helped me with my Hotpoint oven...spot on...the tpp broiler works well the bottom doesnt heat or anything. i though i would have needed a lighter but not for that. gas stove works well too. one day i cut on the oven and when the oven door closed it made a loud blow from inside which sounds like when you light the stove burner using a match...whcih should not be..so my thoughts were is was about to soon konk out.
Hi i have same stove. The oven bottom burner turns on but the top burner doesn’t just like yours top burner works and bottom doesn’t. Can you plz make a video on showing the igniter replacement on to p burner thank you.
My broiler works and the top burners work. The oven itself either does not light or comes on about half or less flame and heats up very slowly. I replaced the igniter and same thing. Its like the flame bar is only getting 1/3 or less the gas it needs when it eventually does open. Any suggestions?
I replaced the oven igniter and the new one turns red. When I turn the oven on it lights but the flames coming out of the gas bar are at half or less normal. The oven is taking forever to heat up to a high temperature. Any advice. Is there anything inside the oven that would cause the gas going to the line to be reduced?
Wow this video was a HUGE help! Especially since you have the exact same stove that I do! haha. I think this is my problem but MAN I don't know how to reassemble the wiring right there at the end of the video. I'll have to figure that out.
I have a whirlpool golden double oven. One is small and one is standard size. The smaller one on top will broil but won't bake. The bottom one works fine. How do I trouble shoot or figure out this one?
I'm assuming you oven is gas, not electric. I've not fixed that type of oven before, so I don't know the specifics. However, this video should give you some ideas to try. Since other burners are working, you know your main gas supply is functioning alright. Like in the video, I'd try finding where you can get a view of the igniter for the burner that is not working. If it doesn't glow, you might have a failed igniter that needs replacement.
Great informative video. Both Broil and Bake igniters glow, but No gas. Would have loved a better view and explanation relating to the gas regulator adjustment.
I have the same problem with my Kitchenaid MoD KGSS907SSS01 .Could youpost a video on ho to repair this model? I would definitely make a donation at your request Thank you
Dear sir good afternoon im having Samsung gas stove with an electric oven my problem are it's showing -se-but do not start im asking you for your guidance in the trouble shooting please
ADDITION to this repair video... BEFORE removing ignitor ... attach a fish line or string to the ignitor wires before you attempt to pull wires up through oven floor. This important detail makes reassembly quite easy, as you then only have to attach contact wire of new ignitor to fish line/ string and pull new wire back through oven floor to reconnect to gas valve beneath.. Easy!!
I have a maytag oven and it heats but doesn't get to temps over about 150. it's almost like the heat is escaping somewhere. Do you know what the problem would be in that case? thanks in advance!
I've not seen that issue before. Maybe it's a problem with the temperature controller or temperature set point? Perhaps it's the temperature measurement device, although I'd expect that to fail entirely.
+Leanne W Well I stopped using it for a good few months and then tried it out and miraculously, its working! Though I have yet to test it at full temp. I think the key is not messing with temp or burners while its on. Hope you resolve yours!
I have a Frigidaire gas range oven that lights whenever it feels like it. Yesterday it wouldn't light at all until I lit the flames with a grill lighter but the flame was extremely low. The igniter appears to be working fine as it glows bright yellow. The flame is so low that the oven barely gets hotter than 250 degrees. This stove is only about 4 years old. Any suggestions?
Not sure on that particular issue. However, I've had luck calling the manufacturer customer service line on an appliance before. I don't remember the specific problem, but their 800 number surprisingly helped identify the problem for me so I could fix it myself.
The igniters is glowing, I smell the gas, then I got a small explosion when the gas built up in the broiler. so what is my problem? It looks like gas is flowing, the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas in a small explosion in the broiler but the gas is not flowing through the pipe with the many holes that are suppose to fire up under the oven.
I spilled my lasagna in my oven. I cleaned it up but it went down on the igniter. Did know. Did the trouble shout. And then used my steam cleaner on the igniter. It works and save me a lot of money. So always try to steam clean it to make sure there is nothing on it.
Why would our igniter glow brighter when the oven is turned on but the oven won't come on? Would it still be the igniter? This is a good video but may be more than I'd attempt. I'm just trying to figure out if this is something I can fix.
I have an XL44 self cleaning gas range model# RGB745WEA2WW and Seral# FV238702P my oven will not heat the broiler and the stove top work fine what is wrong and how can i fixit thank you.
Glad it helped you ! It took me a while to figure out how to fix this. No pressure, but consider sending a tip my way - lots cheaper than a service call. :) Half of all tips go straight to helping people in 3rd world countries Build Better Lives. Learn more here: tomahawkdiy.com/about. You can provide a donation via the "Support This Channel" on my channel page (th-cam.com/users/TomahawkDIY) or through Paypal (paypal.me/TomahawkDIY). Whether you donate or not, have a great great day!
"hi, my ge true temp model jgbp40beh2w is not lighting. The stove top burners light but the oven and broiler do not light. The oven cleaner works??? Please help trouble shoot!! It worked fine last night!! I just dont get why both the oven and broiler dont light but oven cleaner works??? Thank you!!"
+guitruji Glad it helped you! No pressure, but consider sending a tip my way. Half of all tips go straight to helping people in 3rd world countries Build Better Lives. Learn more here: tomahawkdiy.com/about. You can provide a donation via the "Support This Channel" on my channel page (th-cam.com/users/TomahawkDIY). Whether you donate or not, have a great great day!
Here's another big thanks for the great instructions! Saved me over $200 by doing it myself. As in many of the comments, it is much easier to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter onto the gas bar by removing the entire gas bar first. 2 screws below and one at the oven front holding it on. Then do the swap out on your counter. No one seems sure whether it's important to match up where the new leads go, or whether they're interchangeable. I kept it the same as the original one. One lead was a flat clip, and the other was a box clip. Job done in 35 minutes! Thanks Tomahawk!
Thank you! I watched your video, bought the heating element on Amazon. It took about an hour of labor (30 minutes to remove the 2 stupid bolts) but our oven is heating again! Thank you for your very clear and informative video.
+Otter Otter Glad it helped you. A couple years later I had to replace the ignitor again. That time I learned how to easily remove the bolts. Too bad you didn't see the link to Part 2. In case you ever have to replace it again - check out this video. th-cam.com/video/HRzW6a50BjM/w-d-xo.html. Also - please consider leaving a donation via button my channel page - 50% of all donations go straight to organizations that help people in earth's most dire circumstances Build Better Lives by solving problems like food, water, and shelter. tomahawkdiy.com/about
@@TomahawkDIY hi help me
OMG! Thank you sooooo much for this! Mine ended up being that safety valve switch. My wife dropped a spatula behind the stove so I moved it out and the oven stopped working. I replaced the igniter and the gas valve switch. Ugh I knew it was something simple. You are a saint!
Thank you so much for your video. We had a F9 error on our LG double gas oven. I was glad I finally found your video because when I did a search for f9 error it did not address this situation at all. Your demonstration and explanation was exactly what was wrong. You saved the day - thank you!
+Dennis Anderson So glad to hear it helped you! No pressure, but donations are always appreciated. www.paypal.me/TomahawkDIY or Venmo @TomahawkDIY if you want to send one. 50% of donations are sent to help people Build Better Lives in some of earths most dire circumstances (TomahawkDIY.com/about).
Wow, you saved Thanksgiving! This showed exactly what I needed. I was able to eliminate the hassle of removing the ignitor bolts by disconnecting the burner tube. Just one screw in the front by the oven door and the whole works came right out.
Thanks for doing this! These kind of videos are what makes TH-cam an actual valuable resource.
You did a great job here and I haven't seen part 2 yet, but I just wanted to mention that when your reconnecting the new ignitor wires with the old connecters ,... you must use a special wire cap that is ceramic. A regular plastic wire cap could melt and catch fire. The ceramic ones are made for high heat.
GREAT VIDEO!! Now I can get back to baking for my kids and husband and not have to pay for some one to come out and charge me an arm and leg ^_^ Thanks your a life saver and saying what everything was while you were working helped me alot too.
Thnx so much. very helpful.my problem was the "safety switch". u saved me at least 50bucks in home visit fees plus any other charges. its been 2 years since i used my stove and it was jus a lil switch.AMAZING!
Question was asked How do you get the two screws under the ignitor out!?
My GE (Model JGBP30GEP1AD) had screws and not the bolts. Solution. That gas tube, simply comes out if you remove the screw located on the bracket (mark 3:43 in the video at the bottom of the screen you will see the head of that little bolt sticking out of the burner/tube)) attached to the front. In the back of the oven,(if you oven has the defuser plate then you will also have the bracket) just move the burner/ fuel tube to the side of the defuser bracket and lift up where you will find that the igniter will come up with burner/the fuel tube. Just make sure when you replace, that the fuel tube fits over the brass gas intake in the back of the broiler area. Gas naturally rises up through the burner tube, and if doesn't go into the tube, you could have a a major gas leak.
Thank you for the video. We found the problem in our oven. It was the switch that was accidentally turned off while we were doing the cleaning! We got a hint from you video and found the little mistake. :) We were almost about to order a new igniter.
My oven would only light sometimes or there would be a long delay when it did light. I replaced the igniter and it has lit right up four times in a row. Thank you for taking the time to post this video.
thank you so much for making this video. i haven't tried using my oven for 18 years! i'm finally going to try to fix it since it is my parents' oven.
how did you get the bolts out from under the bar? would have liked seeing that!
Thanks for your help. Boththe broiler and then the oven stopped working. The broiler igniter was bad. I also think that the gas buildup led to a shut down of the gas switch. I got the oven working by fliiping the switch and now I'm ordering the new igniter. Thanks again, this was empowering!
Hey Tom, I have the exact same Hotpoint model -- with the exact same problem (oven ignitor . . . broiler works). Thank you for your trouble-shooting. Way better than the GE manual and site! :)
Thanks tomahawk. Saved me some cash and I'm feeling more manly and adult ish!! Thanks man. Appreciate ya.
+Daniel Allen Glad to hear it helped!! Now you have the chance to help people in some of earths most dire circumstances solve a problem such as no clean water, no shelter, no medical care, hunger, etc.. TomahawkDIY is a business with a mission. No pressure, but donations are always appreciated. www.paypal.me/TomahawkDIY or Venmo @TomahawkDIY if you want to send one. 50% of donations are sent to help people Build Better Lives in some of earths most dire circumstances (TomahawkDIY.com/about).
This is a great video. It was exactly the same problem as my gas oven. It was easy to follow along and fix my oven. I had to order my part with Whirlpool. Once again good job Tomahawk DIY.
Thank you! My oven is now working because of this video.
thank you for this great video!! My husband is NOT handy but your video saved us from having someone come in! Thank you and CHEERS
Perfect video! Very clear, and concise. That GE just happens to pretty much the same range/ oven as my Hotpoint, and I am having exactly this problem. The only difference between the 2 is the controll panel. Lol This helped know how to remove the igniter. Thank you!
It was a real pain. I used a socket without the handle attached and just twisted with my fingers. Not easy to do. I think I tried using a very small socket set and a very small pair of pliers before realizing I needed to do it with my fingers.
Thank you for your video. I watched videos parts 1 & 2 and was able to figure out the igniter needed to be replaced. I was able to replace the igniter using the steps in your videos.
How did you get the bolts for the igniter out? This is where I'm stuck.
Thanks man for the video! My wife told me that the oven wasn't heating and I'm thinking oh crap! But this may be my problem so I'm about to check it out now.
Is there a pilot light in this oven too or is it just the ignitor device that makes it light?
This was a huge help. Thank you for taking the time to do this! John
Thank you for posting. Well done, especially considering you hold the camera yourself the entire time.
Thanks Tomahawk!My Whirlpool has been broke for months. Followed just what you did here and it was the bottom ignighter alright. Now off to the store in the morning to get the part.Thanks a lot and have a great day.
?
I would like to see how you removed the igniter as it seems impossible to get to.
I was so excited to see the oven matched mine. I already knew the igniter was the problem from other videos. The problem I’m having is I don’t know how to get the screws holding it in place out. They are underneath and hard to access. You Didn’t Show Or Even Fully Explain How You Got Them Out. What Did the tool look like? How did you get underneath screws? How did you get the screws back in? Who puts screws underneath anyway? Poor design GE.
Sorry it didn't show removing the screws in the first video. But I made one that properly shows how to get at the screws. Here: th-cam.com/video/HRzW6a50BjM/w-d-xo.html
It is much easier to disconnect the entire gas manifold by removing the two screws underneath on the manifold clamp and the one screw in the top at the front of the manifold. Then with the whole manifold unit removed one can quickly change the igniter. Splicing of the electric lines may be necessary with the use of ceramic wire nuts, usually provided with the igniter kit. The screws were underneath because the correct way to do this is to take the manifold out for ease of repair and inspection for possible other issues.
Great Video...I am having a problem with the exact model you have in the video. The only difference is that neither broiler or oven won't ignite. Stove top works fine. What should I be focusing on?
for those of you who are having a difficult time removing the bolts on the igniter... Follow the gas tub down below (where the electrical connections are). Remove the two bolts on the back of the oven that holds the gas tube in place. Once these are gone go back inside the oven. There is a single tube near the front of the tube. Once these three screws (2 below and at the rear of the drawer area and one at the front of the gas tube inside the oven) are removed the entire gas tube with the igniter attached can be lifted up and out of the oven. Turn the tube over and the screws are easy to remove.
Darin Richardson thanks for adding that tip. this video didn't even show how he removed his bolts.
common sense
GREAT DIRECTION VIDEO GOT GLOW BAR OUT MYSELF NO PROBLEMS...THANKS ROSE
Ok... I'm in a bit of a thing I think. I cut the snap connector off too close to be able to splice it together with the cap. Is the other end that is connected to the oven a "hot" lead? If not, can I cut off that other end of the snap connector and use the cap to put the two wires together without that connector? Or should I find another matching connector and put my ignitor wire in through that and then snap it together as originally set up? If it IS a hot lead.. would unplugging the oven be sufficient to be able to cut that wire?
+amarieigc It's a bit difficult to troubleshoot without seeing your situation. This other video of mine might help: th-cam.com/video/HRzW6a50BjM/w-d-xo.html Also, you can always turn off power to your oven at the circuit breaker. Good luck!
+HoneyBee When the oven is turned off, the gas valve should turn off as well. Sorry - I'm not sure what to say about your other questions. Good luck!
At 5:36 you saved me soooooo much trouble! Went from using an electric oven to a gas oven, how was I supposed to know there's a switch down there?! Hahaha. Thank you so much!
It would be a good idea to unplug the range, as I received a shock prying off the blade connection.
I bet you'll never do that again
Thanks this should really help. Mine just stopped working. Top burners are fine. Can't wait to fix it!
I just noticed that my gas range wasn't heating. thanks for the video. it was as simple as pulling out the lower console and lighting the pilot.
U saved my thanksgiving
I have a bottom broiler, and neither the oven nor the broiler is lighting. The stove burners work fine.
Cmon mike are the ignitors glowing? Need more info.
I love this, I learn a lot things on fixing my things, as well as upgrade my knowledge about home appliances. I owed you an appreciation
Hi there. Have a GE Profile XL 44 that often i cannot get to heat much past 375/400. Ignitor goes on, burner burns blue. I noticed that when it gets to that high 300s low 400s range, the blue flame actually will at ties flicker or get smaller. Any tips?
I have a 20 year old GE Profile gas range. The burners work fine, the panel lights up when I turn the oven on,and the broiler works, but the oven doesn't heat. Given the age of the appliance, is it worth paying for a service call/parts/labor. Watching the video it may be the oven igniter.
I have a kitchen Aid do you have video on this one??
This is helpful. Thank you. My oven (Amani ACF3375AW/PACF3375AW1)...the broiler seems to kick on, but the oven ignitor does not even get warm. Does this still troubleshoot as an ignitor issue to you? I would like to be certain (ish) before I buy the new part. Thank you.
+sonnyboywannabe I'm not an expert appliance repair person, but if the broiler is working, but the main oven is not working, it sounds pretty similar to the situation I found with this oven. So, I wouldn't be surprised if it's the ignitor. Also - be sure to look at Part 2 of this video - it'll save you time if unscrewing the ignitor is similar to this one. Good luck!
A viewer asked: need help with oven burner not lighting igniter works fine, broiler works fine. oven burner wont light.
Response: be certain that both ignitors work - in this oven there is one for the top (broiler) and one for the bottom (oven). If both are working, it may be an issue with the gas line to the oven burner or a problem with the controls or valve that supplies gas to the oven burner when you turn it on. Good luck!
Do you need ceramic wire nuts if you need to splice the new igniter to the original leads?
+Greyswyndir Sorry - I'm not sure if there's a special reason fro ceramic vs. regular plastic ones. Good luck!
You need Deez Nutz
I have the same oven and same problem. Thanks for your insight and giving me confidence to fix myself.
Thank you for the great vid...i do have a question tho...when i press the PRE HEAT button does the broiler suppose to turn on also?
My broil and bake do not ignite. What are the odds both broke at same time? The stove top works so must be both if items on broil and bake?
Hey Tomahawk. Thanks for this very helpful video! You've perfectly diagnosed the problem. The switch next to the regulator (located at the back/bottom, behind the bottom drawer) somehow got flipped to the off position. When I tried to flip the switch back to the on position, it came off in my hand (didn't break, just came off in tact). So now the spring valve is shut, and I can't reconnect the switch to open it back up. Any suggestions?
Crazy. I've never run into that problem before. Not sure how to fix. Possibly replace the entire valve?
@@TomahawkDIY I reattached the switch and set it to open, but still no gas is flowing. I think I need to call in a repairman. :-/
Can you explain the kind of tape I will need to connect the wires of the new igniter?
Can I light it up in that small hole in the front before you took out the panel?
Was the oven /stove unplugged or just turned off when u did this ???
Have an older gas stove...it has no electric plug. Pilot in oven is lit, but oven does not heat...any suggestions?
I have replaced the igniter and the safety valve and then reset the plunger on the gas regulator, on a Frigidaire gas oven. I am able to get a low blue flame on the oven burners, but it does not respond to the temperature setting on the dial. What should I look at next? Would this be the temperature sensor or the regulator? The surface burners on top work well.
Sounds like the thermocouple is kaput!
Thanu this tottaly helped me with my Hotpoint oven...spot on...the tpp broiler works well the bottom doesnt heat or anything. i though i would have needed a lighter but not for that. gas stove works well too. one day i cut on the oven and when the oven door closed it made a loud blow from inside which sounds like when you light the stove burner using a match...whcih should not be..so my thoughts were is was about to soon konk out.
Thank you so much for uploading the video! Wow, what a helpful tutorial!
Hi i have same stove. The oven bottom burner turns on but the top burner doesn’t just like yours top burner works and bottom doesn’t. Can you plz make a video on showing the igniter replacement on to p burner thank you.
Great how to video , Think my problem is my Gas Pressure Regulator . Thank you
Great video !!... Great narration, nice work, Thanks !!...
My broiler works and the top burners work. The oven itself either does not light or comes on about half or less flame and heats up very slowly. I replaced the igniter and same thing. Its like the flame bar is only getting 1/3 or less the gas it needs when it eventually does open. Any suggestions?
I replaced the oven igniter and the new one turns red. When I turn the oven on it lights but the flames coming out of the gas bar are at half or less normal. The oven is taking forever to heat up to a high temperature. Any advice. Is there anything inside the oven that would cause the gas going to the line to be reduced?
That was Awesome thanjs for being so detailed and step by step. You ROCK !!!!!!!!!
Thank you! I fixed my oven and got out of fixing that faucet for another day.
Great video. Everyone uses the warming drawer as a pan storage.🤣
WHAT is THE RESISTANCE/OHMS RANGE ON the NEW and/or a GOOD IGNITER?
Wow this video was a HUGE help! Especially since you have the exact same stove that I do! haha. I think this is my problem but MAN I don't know how to reassemble the wiring right there at the end of the video. I'll have to figure that out.
Thanx for posting it was very helpful every problem on that oven is what I am dealing with
My gas Whirlpool electric igniter will not light my burners. Any advise? Bad igniter?
Thank you Sonia Campos, I followed your instructions. My oven came right on. Thanks, I really appreciate the info!
I don't use the broiler. I wonder if I can just swap the broiler igniter with the oven igniter. Hmmm.
If the igniter glows, but gas tube won't light, could it be it is not heating enough & needs a replacement?
I have a whirlpool golden double oven. One is small and one is standard size. The smaller one on top will broil but won't bake. The bottom one works fine. How do I trouble shoot or figure out this one?
I'm assuming you oven is gas, not electric. I've not fixed that type of oven before, so I don't know the specifics. However, this video should give you some ideas to try. Since other burners are working, you know your main gas supply is functioning alright. Like in the video, I'd try finding where you can get a view of the igniter for the burner that is not working. If it doesn't glow, you might have a failed igniter that needs replacement.
Great informative video. Both Broil and Bake igniters glow, but No gas. Would have loved a better view and explanation relating to the gas regulator adjustment.
thanks for uploading this very helpful video...my oven stopped heating a week ago
I have the same problem with my Kitchenaid MoD KGSS907SSS01 .Could youpost a video on ho to repair this model? I would definitely make a donation at your request Thank you
+M. Santos sorry, I don't have access to that model for making a video.
Dear sir good afternoon im having Samsung gas stove with an electric oven my problem are it's showing -se-but do not start im asking you for your guidance in the trouble shooting please
ADDITION to this repair video... BEFORE removing ignitor ... attach a fish line or string to the ignitor wires before you attempt to pull wires up through oven floor. This important detail makes reassembly quite easy, as you then only have to attach contact wire of new ignitor to fish line/ string and pull new wire back through oven floor to reconnect to gas valve beneath.. Easy!!
I have a maytag oven and it heats but doesn't get to temps over about 150. it's almost like the heat is escaping somewhere. Do you know what the problem would be in that case?
thanks in advance!
I've not seen that issue before. Maybe it's a problem with the temperature controller or temperature set point? Perhaps it's the temperature measurement device, although I'd expect that to fail entirely.
were you able to fix the problem, i have the same issue:(
+Leanne W Well I stopped using it for a good few months and then tried it out and miraculously, its working! Though I have yet to test it at full temp. I think the key is not messing with temp or burners while its on. Hope you resolve yours!
I have a Frigidaire gas range oven that lights whenever it feels like it. Yesterday it wouldn't light at all until I lit the flames with a grill lighter but the flame was extremely low. The igniter appears to be working fine as it glows bright yellow. The flame is so low that the oven barely gets hotter than 250 degrees. This stove is only about 4 years old. Any suggestions?
Not sure on that particular issue. However, I've had luck calling the manufacturer customer service line on an appliance before. I don't remember the specific problem, but their 800 number surprisingly helped identify the problem for me so I could fix it myself.
The igniters is glowing, I smell the gas, then I got a small explosion when the gas built up in the broiler. so what is my problem? It looks like gas is flowing, the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas in a small explosion in the broiler but the gas is not flowing through the pipe with the many holes that are suppose to fire up under the oven.
I spilled my lasagna in my oven. I cleaned it up but it went down on the igniter. Did know. Did the trouble shout. And then used my steam cleaner on the igniter. It works and save me a lot of money. So always try to steam clean it to make sure there is nothing on it.
Michelle Walker great idea!!!
Michelle Walker looks)
Why would our igniter glow brighter when the oven is turned on but the oven won't come on? Would it still be the igniter?
This is a good video but may be more than I'd attempt. I'm just trying to figure out if this is something I can fix.
+t. smith hmm. Maybe there is a problem with the gas supply.
Do I need to turn the gas off to take off the part ?
Thanks bro! High quality video.
I have an XL44 self cleaning gas range model# RGB745WEA2WW and Seral# FV238702P my oven will not heat the broiler and the stove top work fine what is wrong and how can i fixit thank you.
Why would my old igniter work if the oven floor is removed but not with it on?
Thank you for uploading this video you are real good teacher thank you so so much i will follow your instruction.
got a new gas range kitchenaid#KSGB900ESS burners working but gas in oven wont ignite I can hear the igniter but no gas
Thank you for your video, the problem was exactly as you described. The repair was straight forward and saved me a service call.
Glad it helped you ! It took me a while to figure out how to fix this. No pressure, but consider sending a tip my way - lots cheaper than a service call. :) Half of all tips go straight to helping people in 3rd world countries Build Better Lives. Learn more here: tomahawkdiy.com/about. You can provide a donation via the "Support This Channel" on my channel page (th-cam.com/users/TomahawkDIY) or through Paypal (paypal.me/TomahawkDIY). Whether you donate or not, have a great great day!
Left you something, thanks again!
Lion n v M.j
"hi, my ge true temp model jgbp40beh2w is not lighting. The stove top burners light but the oven and broiler do not light. The oven cleaner works??? Please help trouble shoot!! It worked fine last night!! I just dont get why both the oven and broiler dont light but oven cleaner works??? Thank you!!"
we have something like that but we have a big problem can you help us? tomhawk diy
thanks this video was really helpful
+guitruji Glad it helped you! No pressure, but consider sending a tip my way. Half of all tips go straight to helping people in 3rd world countries Build Better Lives. Learn more here: tomahawkdiy.com/about. You can provide a donation via the "Support This Channel" on my channel page (th-cam.com/users/TomahawkDIY). Whether you donate or not, have a great great day!
Thanks for the instructions!
My oven warms partially but not fully...and a slight gas smell during the partial heating....any ideas?
Thank you for uploading this video help me out a lot thanks again
Good job
Thanks!