great vid!! thanks. I have an LG gas oven. The stove and top burners all work fine. The Broiler (new igniter now) comes on but has a weak gas flow/small flames, they flicker on and off. and I have adjusted the air/fuel mixer to be about in the middle. I have continuity on both sides of my dual safety valve, very low ohms. any ideas??? THANKS !
My burners, oven and broiler have a spark ignition igniters. My broiler igniter clicks and lights but my oven Bake igniter does not click and light, but I did smell some gas. Can these spark type igniters be bench tested, and how do you test these ?
Here's one for you...I have an old Caloric gas stove (propane). After I use the oven, and it is still hot, none of the top burner spark units work (I have to use a match to light). Once the oven is back at room temp, the top burners light as they should. I have replaced the spark module, wires, ceramic spark components, and I have added addition ground wires. Nothing I have done corrects that issue. Any thoughts?
I followed all the tips here and it seems I have an anomaly. Everything tests out for resistance fine. I have a dual output safety valve and standard metal composite gas ignitor. The problem arises when everything is hooked back up and installed, only my broiler ignitor is coming on. I pulled the lower ignitor back out of the stove and wire it up to a 120v cord. It pulled 3.5 amps so that's good. Next, I hooked everything back up and still no lower burn tube. I checked the ACV at the the safety valve and I'm get 3v?!!!!! Shouldn't the voltage between 120V? UPDATE: Further troubleshooting lead me to the control PCB where I found a burnt circuit along the bake relay circuit. Bingo!!!!! Thanks for all the help getting me up to this point!
I here there are a lot of problems with those boards even in new units. They just can't take the heat. For reliability, I'm sticking with the bare bones stoves without circuit boards. Not even a clock. Parts still will go out however but at least they are parts you can get. There are problems getting electronic parts now. Another problem is with cheap parts. They are poor quality and don't last. I'm on my third igniter. The cheap ones are defective right out of the box and will not last long. The last one only was usable for about a month then when it heats up the amperage drops off. Temp in oven goes up and down and won't hold. Thermostat is fine.
@@stevenw4549 I've been suffering similar problems. 4th ignitor in 2 years. 2 have been 120$ plus name brand and 2 20$ chinese versions and the reliability was about the same. Also to note, the company that I bought them from needed to inspect the part before they sent me a replacement. Meaning more downtime.... The cheap version were usually replaced sight unseen within the warranty period.
@@johns.1940 Ok maybe it's not the brand thing and just a problem with that technology not being reliable. At any rate a lot of people are getting ripped off. I'd just as soon be able to light it with a match at this point. Perhaps it's a problem with the safety valve? The bimetal may be getting weak or something. Good luck my friend.
The the valve in Samsung gaas range i tested had 014 on top and 022 on the bottom. Bad. I replaced the ignitor on bottom but only gas getting to the top burner and not very good at that
I have a Samsung gas oven, I've replaced the igniter and the temp sensor and still can;t maintain a 350 setpoint or any setpoint for that matter, can you help?
I was told a working igniter should operate with 3.4 amps. I bought two igniters and they did not work. I used a multimeter to test them. With power on.
i have whirlpool model # WFG525S0HS0 and my oven does not work. top 5 burners are working but boiler and oven are not. The ignitor is ok, but what else can i check. It's my parents and trying to help the. Please help. thank you.
When the electricity goes out My burners do not function on my Maytag range ,.. So how do get rid of the safety valve altogether?? I would like to cook and bake when the electric is off.
I changed the igniter and the safty valve. It was working fine for one day now the igniter glows red but will not turn on the burner. Does igniters go bad so quickly or did I maby but the wrong part? The stove is old and no part numbers match with model. I used the numbers off the old igniter. The part that came in looked just like the old one. I suspect the igniter has some how changed value.
The problem I'm seeing is in the quality of replacement parts. Not just appliances either. Car parts are similar. The American consumer is getting ripped off. There should be oversight on these items but no our government doesn't care.
I replaced the ignitor in my Frigidaire oven, and it worked for 2 effin' weeks. Now it's bad like the old one - barely glows and won't light. Chinese $hit!
I found a list of chinese exports to over 130+ different countries. They all had A-Grade quality product designation. USA was Grade-B. I Saw that list a decade ago.
Seems that if 1) you smell gas and the bake igniter glows but doesn't get hot or 2) the broiler ignites but the bake does not - you can skip ahead and conclude it is the igniter.
One of the best "How to" videos I've ever seen. Thanks
great vid!! thanks. I have an LG gas oven. The stove and top burners all work fine. The Broiler (new igniter now) comes on but has a weak gas flow/small flames, they flicker on and off. and I have adjusted the air/fuel mixer to be about in the middle. I have continuity on both sides of my dual safety valve, very low ohms. any ideas??? THANKS !
This video helped me diagnose my problem. Like how you explained the process and the testing.
My burners, oven and broiler have a spark ignition igniters. My broiler igniter clicks and lights but my oven Bake igniter does not click and light, but I did smell some gas. Can these spark type igniters be bench tested, and how do you test these ?
Here's one for you...I have an old Caloric gas stove (propane). After I use the oven, and it is still hot, none of the top burner spark units work (I have to use a match to light). Once the oven is back at room temp, the top burners light as they should. I have replaced the spark module, wires, ceramic spark components, and I have added addition ground wires. Nothing I have done corrects that issue. Any thoughts?
ok so even if the igniter isglowing and shows a good heatit may not be enough qamp draw to trigger the valve to open?
I followed all the tips here and it seems I have an anomaly. Everything tests out for resistance fine. I have a dual output safety valve and standard metal composite gas ignitor. The problem arises when everything is hooked back up and installed, only my broiler ignitor is coming on. I pulled the lower ignitor back out of the stove and wire it up to a 120v cord. It pulled 3.5 amps so that's good. Next, I hooked everything back up and still no lower burn tube. I checked the ACV at the the safety valve and I'm get 3v?!!!!! Shouldn't the voltage between 120V?
UPDATE:
Further troubleshooting lead me to the control PCB where I found a burnt circuit along the bake relay circuit. Bingo!!!!! Thanks for all the help getting me up to this point!
I here there are a lot of problems with those boards even in new units. They just can't take the heat. For reliability, I'm sticking with the bare bones stoves without circuit boards. Not even a clock. Parts still will go out however but at least they are parts you can get. There are problems getting electronic parts now. Another problem is with cheap parts. They are poor quality and don't last. I'm on my third igniter.
The cheap ones are defective right out of the box and will not last long. The last one only was usable for about a month then when it heats up the amperage drops off. Temp in oven goes up and down and won't hold. Thermostat is fine.
@@stevenw4549 I've been suffering similar problems. 4th ignitor in 2 years. 2 have been 120$ plus name brand and 2 20$ chinese versions and the reliability was about the same. Also to note, the company that I bought them from needed to inspect the part before they sent me a replacement. Meaning more downtime.... The cheap version were usually replaced sight unseen within the warranty period.
@@johns.1940 Ok maybe it's not the brand thing and just a problem with that technology not being reliable. At any rate a lot of people are getting ripped off. I'd just as soon be able to light it with a match at this point. Perhaps it's a problem with the safety valve? The bimetal may be getting weak or something. Good luck my friend.
Can you test the ignitor with out a clamp on style ignitor?
The the valve in Samsung gaas range i tested had 014 on top and 022 on the bottom. Bad. I replaced the ignitor on bottom but only gas getting to the top burner and not very good at that
I have a Samsung gas oven, I've replaced the igniter and the temp sensor and still can;t maintain a 350 setpoint or any setpoint for that matter, can you help?
I was told a working igniter should operate with 3.4 amps. I bought two igniters and they did not work. I used a multimeter to test them. With power on.
i have whirlpool model # WFG525S0HS0 and my oven does not work. top 5 burners are working but boiler and oven are not. The ignitor is ok, but what else can i check. It's my parents and trying to help the. Please help. thank you.
When the electricity goes out My burners do not function on my Maytag range ,.. So how do get rid of the safety valve altogether?? I would like to cook and bake when the electric is off.
I changed the igniter and the safty valve. It was working fine for one day now the igniter glows red but will not turn on the burner. Does igniters go bad so quickly or did I maby but the wrong part? The stove is old and no part numbers match with model. I used the numbers off the old igniter. The part that came in looked just like the old one. I suspect the igniter has some how changed value.
I have no amps to my igniter and low volts to it is this common? Seems like my board is bad.
The problem I'm seeing is in the quality of replacement parts. Not just appliances either. Car parts are similar. The American consumer is getting ripped off. There should be oversight on these items but no our government doesn't care.
I replaced the ignitor in my Frigidaire oven, and it worked for 2 effin' weeks. Now it's bad like the old one - barely glows and won't light. Chinese $hit!
Yes, and I've used what was supposed to be OEM and they still fail prematurely.@@ujmrider
I found a list of chinese exports to over 130+ different countries. They all had A-Grade quality product designation. USA was Grade-B.
I Saw that list a decade ago.
If the shut valve is showing resistance of less than 1.0 or more 2.0. It is defective?
This iginator for glowing how much need volt
Thanks
Seems that if 1) you smell gas and the bake igniter glows but doesn't get hot or 2) the broiler ignites but the bake does not - you can skip ahead and conclude it is the igniter.
this is exactly my problem. thanks
The Bake function would not work on my stove. My Broil igniter shows 111 Ohms and my Bake igniter shows 2.3 Ohms. I suspect the Bake igniter went bad.
Thanks a ton!
What if my gas oven warms up by itself? It just gets warm, not hot. Is it worth having a repairman come or I'm debating buying a new range.
i have a C-F2 code on my samsung stove