Great video . You went through the whole system , isolated the problem , fixed it and VERIFIED the repair . If you moved on and changed the pump - you would have been SCREWED . Then - do you put in ANOTHER ? THIS is how it's done . There is a video on Schroeders Box where Matt explains the whole system . On my 1987 Celebrity 2.8L the FPR ruptured . Gas came out of the throttle body through a vacuum line . I put a vacuum pump on the line and it pulled fuel on the first pump . And that FPR is buried UNDER the intake plenum and BETWEEN the fuel rails . I was lucky no fuel went into the oil . Keep up the good work !
Good job with your diagnostics. I like your resourcefulness with tools in getting the job done with what you have! Thanks for sharing, I can't wait to see more of your repair/diagnostic videos.
Great video !!! I use to work at Autozone and the kids they hire don’t know what to do with returned parts .. so instead of damaging the returned part ,they put it back on the shelf to resell.. I’m sure that’s what you got the first time ...
@@TheDaninator Yeah man! Testing fuel injectors at some point this weekend. Shot a video today with a shop down the street on tire balancing and sanitizing customer cars.
I appreciate both your videos! I'm having a very similar issue with my 97 so I'm happy to see it's not a super laborious fix, other than accessing the parts! Great video, again!
same thing with 96 deville .. long cranks ... . mysterious wiff of gas every blue moon ..waiting on the part now .. but weirdly enough i turn the key . wait a few seconds and it ll start rite up the last day or so . but like i say before for like the last week . it was giving me long cranks . but then again i wasn't waiting the 3second poss to build that much pressure to just kick it on..but I'm gladif this is the fix ..even though i replaced this piece 2 years ago.. possible a common part with a spring can go out qucicker then u think . plus it may have not been the best quality part but it was like 50 dollars ..? we'll see. in afew days ..just ordered one for 35 .. good reviews ..
Check the codes for clues to mixture problems. ALWAYS disconnect the battery before removing electrical connectors to some parts. It can cause a glitch and short out parts or the computer.
The Daninator how did you find this problem . I changed the regulator and got three new coils after getting faulty center one . did your have the same problem hot if you like go into bk eat for like ten minutes and come out and she has a hard cranking time
My fuel pressure drops to zero I placed a pressure gauge on the rail , But ill try the pinch off return line too see if the tank check valve is bad . I get 40 psi at idle I hope I don't have to change the pump or ill have too cut a access hole on top
The Daninator I blocked off the return fuel line and my pressure drops to zero . I have already replaced the fuel pressure regulator . I think its the check valve on the fuel pump . I don't get the fuel pressure to hold like in your video . I have too cut a access hole in the back near the tank .
I'm having something similar with at Toyota matrix....well I just believe that it takes a little bit too long to kick over. Nothing like what your car was doing but I have noticed at times it's starts a few seconds faster than other times. Did the key cycling thing to prime the pump and it did start on the more faster side. Any suggestions?
you could check fuel pressure like I did. That'd tell you a lot. Sometimes a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor can cause long crank at start. Could be any number of things, but a fuel pressure gauge can help narrow it down.
@@TheDaninator i did clean the MAF sensor and as well as the throttle body. I noticed a nice jump in performance but im still not too comfortable with the starting. Thanks for the tip with fuel pressure.
No question the original regulator was bad, there was fuel in the vacuum line. However, was the first new regulator faulty or did it leak because you didn't use the snap ring? You used the snap ring on the second one so you can't really say for certain that the first one was bad and the second one was good can you?
YOU HAVE TO USE THE SNAP RING!! I tried to use only the new clamp it comes with but the seal isn't tight and will leak gas. use the right size pliers and pop that new C ring in.
Great video! Very good diagnostics and explanation. Surprised however that after the fix the initial ignition on only got the pressure up to 10 psi. I thought it should immediately go to 40-50. I thought I heard the ignition being cycled 3 times to get it in that range. That behavior wouldn't solve the problem would it? Again thanks for the video. I am replacing my FPR this weekend and this video will help ensure I am getting it right
condor5635 exactly, 3 times to build-up pressure. There is still sth wrong. In My opinion there is full filter clogged. Question is where, there is one afterfuel pomp, one in FPR and there are filter in injectors. Definitely to check!
you did good...alot of info,,,bro,,,,i have a 200 chevy short bed with a 4.3..v6,,,its starts most of the time but its starting to not,,,it will take me abunch of back firing or cranking b4 it starts ,,,its beginning to get worse,,,,i hope that its my f presure reg like it was with yours,,,will ill see if it is not untile sat or sunday,,,i drive it every day,,,it always runs like its something about the fuel ,,,not running right on my way to work,,,and its a throtle body,,,any ways thanks for the video.............................
If the regulator is bad , and the diaphragm is ruptured , fuel will come out of the vacuum line . Fix the regulator FIRST , THEN check the pump . On my 1987 Celebrity 2.8L , the FPR ruptured and fuel came out of the throttle body , VIA the vacuum line . I put a vacuum pump on the vacuum line . It pulled fuel out on the FIRST pump . Bad FPR . He had a bad NEW FPR ! He fixed it .He then checked the pump . Diagnose and isolate the problem .
At 2:48 he begins to explain ALL the possibilities for the low and no hold pressure . In this case , the NEW FPR was BAD . A new pump would accomplish nothing , except a thinner wallet . Every repair must be verified . In this case the FPR was not holding pressure . On my own car , it ripped and dumped raw fuel out the vacuum line . ZERO pressure and NO HOLD . Unless the entire system is checked , changing parts may not cure the problem . This case proves new means NEVER EVER WORKED . And you may inject problem # 2 with bad parts .
Great video . You went through the whole system , isolated the problem , fixed it and VERIFIED the repair . If you moved on and changed the pump - you would have been SCREWED . Then - do you put in ANOTHER ? THIS is how it's done . There is a video on Schroeders Box where Matt explains the whole system . On my 1987 Celebrity 2.8L the FPR ruptured . Gas came out of the throttle body through a vacuum line . I put a vacuum pump on the line and it pulled fuel on the first pump . And that FPR is buried UNDER the intake plenum and BETWEEN the fuel rails . I was lucky no fuel went into the oil . Keep up the good work !
I want to thank you for giving us the problem the symptom and the fix
Good job with your diagnostics. I like your resourcefulness with tools in getting the job done with what you have! Thanks for sharing, I can't wait to see more of your repair/diagnostic videos.
Superb job.well done.good clear.explanation.steve from the uk.
Great video !!! I use to work at Autozone and the kids they hire don’t know what to do with returned parts .. so instead of damaging the returned part ,they put it back on the shelf to resell.. I’m sure that’s what you got the first time ...
wtf kinda bullshit is this
I'll be doing this on my car this weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Happy repairs J. Hunto!
@@TheDaninator Yeah man! Testing fuel injectors at some point this weekend. Shot a video today with a shop down the street on tire balancing and sanitizing customer cars.
Thanks Daninator! I'm having the same issue in my 98 v6 Camaro
I appreciate both your videos! I'm having a very similar issue with my 97 so I'm happy to see it's not a super laborious fix, other than accessing the parts!
Great video, again!
Well done brother excellent video
Thanks for the video, it sounds like I have the same symptoms on my 1993 Jeep YJ as on your car. Got a pressure regulator on the way!
same thing with 96 deville .. long cranks ... . mysterious wiff of gas every blue moon ..waiting on the part now .. but weirdly enough i turn the key . wait a few seconds and it ll start rite up the last day or so . but like i say before for like the last week . it was giving me long cranks . but then again i wasn't waiting the 3second poss to build that much pressure to just kick it on..but I'm gladif this is the fix ..even though i replaced this piece 2 years ago.. possible a common part with a spring can go out qucicker then u think . plus it may have not been the best quality part but it was like 50 dollars ..? we'll see. in afew days ..just ordered one for 35 .. good reviews ..
You could have put a bolt in the end of your rubber hose and put a hose clamp on it to plug it.
Just a thought. I liked your video, thank you.
padroooo good tip. Thank you
Thanks, that may be the problem with my old but reliable 91 XJ.
Should the fuel system hold pressure always or will it eventually bleed off to 0
Check the codes for clues to mixture problems. ALWAYS disconnect the battery before removing electrical connectors to some parts. It can cause a glitch and short out parts or the computer.
THANX
The Daninator how did you find this problem . I changed the regulator and got three new coils after getting faulty center one . did your have the same problem hot if you like go into bk eat for like ten minutes and come out and she has a hard cranking time
With the faulty regulator the fuel pressure would always drop to zero, so no matter when I tried to start it, it always took to long to crank.
My fuel pressure drops to zero I placed a pressure gauge on the rail , But ill try the pinch off return line too see if the tank check valve is bad . I get 40 psi at idle I hope I don't have to change the pump or ill have too cut a access hole on top
The Daninator I blocked off the return fuel line and my pressure drops to zero . I have already replaced the fuel pressure regulator . I think its the check valve on the fuel pump . I don't get the fuel pressure to hold like in your video . I have too cut a access hole in the back near the tank .
How did you start the car after taking the fuse out ? Did you put the fuse back in or how did you start the car?
I put the fuse back in after I was done with everything.
Excelent video, tanks for the tutorial 👍👌
Thank you for the info
Very helpful!!! Thanks for posting!
Glad the video helped you out!
forget about 70-80 psi.......try to get it closer to 100psi to blow a fuel injector
I'm having something similar with at Toyota matrix....well I just believe that it takes a little bit too long to kick over. Nothing like what your car was doing but I have noticed at times it's starts a few seconds faster than other times. Did the key cycling thing to prime the pump and it did start on the more faster side. Any suggestions?
you could check fuel pressure like I did. That'd tell you a lot. Sometimes a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor can cause long crank at start. Could be any number of things, but a fuel pressure gauge can help narrow it down.
@@TheDaninator i did clean the MAF sensor and as well as the throttle body. I noticed a nice jump in performance but im still not too comfortable with the starting. Thanks for the tip with fuel pressure.
Regulator cause random misfires too when its defective
so what was the problem
No question the original regulator was bad, there was fuel in the vacuum line. However, was the first new regulator faulty or did it leak because you didn't use the snap ring? You used the snap ring on the second one so you can't really say for certain that the first one was bad and the second one was good can you?
Facts
YOU HAVE TO USE THE SNAP RING!! I tried to use only the new clamp it comes with but the seal isn't tight and will leak gas. use the right size pliers and pop that new C ring in.
Thanks for the video
Great video! Very good diagnostics and explanation. Surprised however that after the fix the initial ignition on only got the pressure up to 10 psi. I thought it should immediately go to 40-50. I thought I heard the ignition being cycled 3 times to get it in that range. That behavior wouldn't solve the problem would it? Again thanks for the video. I am replacing my FPR this weekend and this video will help ensure I am getting it right
condor5635 exactly, 3 times to build-up pressure. There is still sth wrong. In My opinion there is full filter clogged. Question is where, there is one afterfuel pomp, one in FPR and there are filter in injectors. Definitely to check!
I wanted to hear it start after that pressure stabilize.
Same!
you did good...alot of info,,,bro,,,,i have a 200 chevy short bed with a 4.3..v6,,,its starts most of the time but its starting to not,,,it will take me abunch of back firing or cranking b4 it starts ,,,its beginning to get worse,,,,i hope that its my f presure reg like it was with yours,,,will ill see if it is not untile sat or sunday,,,i drive it every day,,,it always runs like its something about the fuel ,,,not running right on my way to work,,,and its a throtle body,,,any ways thanks for the video.............................
Thanks for sharing. Very very thorough. Thumps up and subscribed.
I wanna do that to my nissan titan 05,but just wondering if you have any idea,where is the regulator valve or how do i do it?
I don't know exactly. It's usually on the fuel rail to the injectors, but check out your owner's manual or google it
the pump is probably bad too- gauge needle should JUMP up at key-on. not sluggish.
If the regulator is bad , and the diaphragm is ruptured , fuel will come out of the vacuum line . Fix the regulator FIRST , THEN check the pump . On my 1987 Celebrity 2.8L , the FPR ruptured and fuel came out of the throttle body , VIA the vacuum line . I put a vacuum pump on the vacuum line . It pulled fuel out on the FIRST pump . Bad FPR . He had a bad NEW FPR ! He fixed it .He then checked the pump . Diagnose and isolate the problem .
At 2:48 he begins to explain ALL the possibilities for the low and no hold pressure . In this case , the NEW FPR was BAD . A new pump would accomplish nothing , except a thinner wallet . Every repair must be verified . In this case the FPR was not holding pressure . On my own car , it ripped and dumped raw fuel out the vacuum line . ZERO pressure and NO HOLD . Unless the entire system is checked , changing parts may not cure the problem . This case proves new means NEVER EVER WORKED . And you may inject problem # 2 with bad parts .
all right partner get down cant wait!!!!!!
BWD= Broken When Delivered.
LOL!
Regulator
44 -50