Great video. I noticed that in your studio environment, the darker areas (e.g. top left corner @ 0:42) suffer from color banding issues. I wanted to check if this is something to do with shooting using S Log 2 profile or lack of 10 bit video recording? I am planning to use this camera for TH-cam and I will have a dark background.
It’s a common issue with shooting 8bit. It’s not necessarily going to be like that in all your shots though. (I have the ZV-e10 and have yet to run into it) Shooting in s-log 2 helps quite a bit. S-log 3 seems to be better for 10bit. (It has nothing to do with your lens as the other person suggested.)
Hi Roma. I have been following your instructions about s-log 2 with all the other settings within, and it works all well. I am doing some tests with this camera in many different places. You gave some general numbers about zebras in different situations, but I noticed that zebras can be free to manipulate with, according to the individual needs. Does it make a problem in the final product if I go with my own adjustments with it?
Zebras are simply a tool for measuring exposure. It doesn’t really matter which zebra value you use, as long as it helps you achieve the correct or desired exposure for your shot.
thank you for this!~ been watching your videos about zv-e10 and they really helped me a lot. but...something has been bothering me....and really wanted to ask this...why do you add "M" on most of your words at the end of the sentence - videoM, Final Cut ProM, etc?
hello, I have a questıon for you. what would you do when shoottıng ın low lıght sıtuatıons wıth slog 2. Would you push ıso or shutter speed. ıt ıs be hard to get the Zebras ın low lıght. what can you recommend to help me. thanks
I don't shoot in S-log2 in low-light situations; instead, I opt for HLG2 and rely on metering to judge exposure. Typically, I aim to have the M.M somewhere between -0.3 and +0.3, depending on whether I'm going for a darker look or not. I always expose using the aperture or ISO. Using prime lenses with low aperture always helps.
Thanks! I'm using ITU709 as recommended but my shots come out underexposed even at low shutter, iso, and aperture, fairly well lit room. Alot of light must be needed? I'm getting better results with PP4.
One thing that this video doesnt cover and something I find in all of the videos talking about how to expose S-Log is how to expose non human subjects, ie, animals, nature (rocks or flowers for example). Its either showing how to expose human skin or the sky, but what about these other objects? is there a general IRE to set the zebras to to figure out how to check that these items are properly exposed? Or is exposing 2.0 stops over just a rule of thumb for shooting s-log 2 in any scenario? This is what is not clear to me.
Ideally i'd expose with a grey card, but it's not practical in most situations. If you want the cleanest image possible with S-Log2 on 8bit Sony cameras, you should always overexpose the image by 1-2 stops. Now how you determine when the image is overexposed without having skin or sky? You can use the Multi Metering or Spot Metering. Everytime you expose your shot, you'll have to determine if you want to expose for highlights or shadows. If your scene has a lot of highlights, use 95% zebras and drop the exposure until the zebras disappear. Alternatively you can Multi Metering and drop the exposure until M.M+2.0 stops flickering. if your scene is shadow dominant, you can use Spot Metering. Point the spot on the subject of the scene(rocks, flowers, nature) and make sure the M.M doesn't go above +2.0 on the screen. Another tip is to look on the camera monitor. Don't judge exposure with it, but if it looks way too dark or bright. That means something is off. A huge benefit of shooting in either S-Log2 or S-Log3 is that you can always recover some information if you overexpose the shot by 1-2 stops. But if you underexpose the shot, it's going to be nearly impossible to make the image look great. So remember, it's better to overexpose the shot a little bit. Than the other way around. Hope this helps.
Hi Roma, thanks for your videos. I've been binge watching all your videos because you're the only one that I've come across that talks about the ZVE10. I want to ask, the luts on your website, do they work well on dark skintones?
Thanks man! I'm not sure how my LUTs would look on people with dark skin tones. They should work fine, but you may need to make minor adjustments to the exposure and Hue vs Saturation curves.
Hey there, how exactly do you overexpose by two stops? I mean, what's the definition of normal exposure? Without knowing that, I can't really overexpose, right? So how do I know what normal exposure looks like?
Correct S-Log2 exposure is 32IRE on an 18% grey card, 45-50IRE with skin tones (depending on how bright/dark the skin is), or 58-62IRE if you expose for highlights (whites). With that in mind, if you want to overexpose your shot, simply add a stop or two to the values I mentioned earlier. So 32IRE with an 18% grey card(32IRE) becomes 43IRE with one stop overexposure or 55IRE with two stops overexposure. If you expose for skin, 45-50IRE becomes 56-62IRE for one stop overexposure, and so on. I rarely use a grey card; instead, I expose for the skin because it's more practical. Or I use multimetering and make sure it never goes above +2.0. Hope this information helps.
@@Romafedorov I haven't used much of Zebra settings. Let's say I want to shoot skin tones; I need to set up 45-50 IRE and then make sure zebra lines don't appear, right? I've only used default zebra settings and was watching not to have zebras in any place on the screen.
@@ITSolutionsNetworkWhen you expose for the skin, you should set your zebras using Std+range. That means for the set IRE+range you will only get zebras when your subject is exposed in that IRE range. For white skin, you should use zebras set on 54 +/-2 range. Only when you see zebras on the face of the subjet means is the right skin exposure. When you expose for the skye, you'll be using zebras settings with lower limit. This is the zebra setting where you want to have no zebras. The story is a bit more complicated, but here is the main get away with.
Thanks for the video it helped me a lot! But i have a question… how should i set up my zebras if i just use the camera for filming overhead for product reviews? My hands and the item are visible the product should obviously have the main focus.
S-Log2 or PP OFF for daylight. HLG2 for low-light conditions. S-Log3 can be used on the Sony ZV-E10, but I prefer S-Log2. In my opinion, the shadows are cleaner when shooting in S-Log2 on Sony ZV-E10.
It depends on whether you're exposing for highlights or not. If you do, make sure the highlights never clip above 95% zebras. However, in some cases, you may want to overexpose the highlights to get more information in the shadows.
I have a question that shocks me a lot is that since the sony zv e10 does not do slow motion at 4k, do you think it would be good to first record scenes for music videos at 4k and then repeat them again and record it at 1080 and thus scale it in editing
S-Log2 exposure with skin tones & zebras:
- 72 IRE = +2.0EV
- 62 IRE = +1.0EV
- 50 IRE = 0.0EV
S-Log2 exposure with 18% grey card:
- 55 IRE = +2.0EV
- 43 IRE = +1.0EV
- 32 IRE = 0.0EV
When shooting sky or something white, don't go above 95 IRE zebras.
You’re video footage looks fantastic. You’re definitely doing something right 👍
Thank you so much 👍
Great video. I noticed that in your studio environment, the darker areas (e.g. top left corner @ 0:42) suffer from color banding issues.
I wanted to check if this is something to do with shooting using S Log 2 profile or lack of 10 bit video recording?
I am planning to use this camera for TH-cam and I will have a dark background.
i think from the kit lens man
It’s a common issue with shooting 8bit. It’s not necessarily going to be like that in all your shots though. (I have the ZV-e10 and have yet to run into it) Shooting in s-log 2 helps quite a bit. S-log 3 seems to be better for 10bit.
(It has nothing to do with your lens as the other person suggested.)
You are right man! @@l.e.phillips
It make sense, i have been struggling to find this out. Thank you
You’re very welcome!
Can you show how to Color Correct in Davinci Resolve?
any video comparsion between normal movie gamma and (the same scene) with corrected slog2? So we can really see the advantage. thanks
I saw people using slog3 with this camera and getting some actually nice results
Hi Roma. I have been following your instructions about s-log 2 with all the other settings within, and it works all well.
I am doing some tests with this camera in many different places. You gave some general numbers about zebras in
different situations, but I noticed that zebras can be free to manipulate with, according to the individual needs.
Does it make a problem in the final product if I go with my own adjustments with it?
Zebras are simply a tool for measuring exposure. It doesn’t really matter which zebra value you use, as long as it helps you achieve the correct or desired exposure for your shot.
@@Romafedorov So there is not a big difference in the quality of the video
thank you for this!~
been watching your videos about zv-e10 and they really helped me a lot.
but...something has been bothering me....and really wanted to ask this...why do you add "M" on most of your words at the end of the sentence - videoM, Final Cut ProM, etc?
hello, I have a questıon for you. what would you do when shoottıng ın low lıght sıtuatıons wıth slog 2. Would you push ıso or shutter speed. ıt ıs be hard to get the Zebras ın low lıght. what can you recommend to help me. thanks
I don't shoot in S-log2 in low-light situations; instead, I opt for HLG2 and rely on metering to judge exposure. Typically, I aim to have the M.M somewhere between -0.3 and +0.3, depending on whether I'm going for a darker look or not. I always expose using the aperture or ISO. Using prime lenses with low aperture always helps.
Hi thank you for this video. As far as zebras go, can you give any advise for slog2 10bit on the sony a7iv?
Thanks! I'm using ITU709 as recommended but my shots come out underexposed even at low shutter, iso, and aperture, fairly well lit room. Alot of light must be needed? I'm getting better results with PP4.
One thing that this video doesnt cover and something I find in all of the videos talking about how to expose S-Log is how to expose non human subjects, ie, animals, nature (rocks or flowers for example). Its either showing how to expose human skin or the sky, but what about these other objects? is there a general IRE to set the zebras to to figure out how to check that these items are properly exposed?
Or is exposing 2.0 stops over just a rule of thumb for shooting s-log 2 in any scenario? This is what is not clear to me.
Ideally i'd expose with a grey card, but it's not practical in most situations. If you want the cleanest image possible with S-Log2 on 8bit Sony cameras, you should always overexpose the image by 1-2 stops. Now how you determine when the image is overexposed without having skin or sky? You can use the Multi Metering or Spot Metering. Everytime you expose your shot, you'll have to determine if you want to expose for highlights or shadows. If your scene has a lot of highlights, use 95% zebras and drop the exposure until the zebras disappear. Alternatively you can Multi Metering and drop the exposure until M.M+2.0 stops flickering. if your scene is shadow dominant, you can use Spot Metering. Point the spot on the subject of the scene(rocks, flowers, nature) and make sure the M.M doesn't go above +2.0 on the screen. Another tip is to look on the camera monitor. Don't judge exposure with it, but if it looks way too dark or bright. That means something is off. A huge benefit of shooting in either S-Log2 or S-Log3 is that you can always recover some information if you overexpose the shot by 1-2 stops. But if you underexpose the shot, it's going to be nearly impossible to make the image look great. So remember, it's better to overexpose the shot a little bit. Than the other way around. Hope this helps.
@@Romafedorov Perfect, thanks for the explanation!
Hi Roma, thanks for your videos. I've been binge watching all your videos because you're the only one that I've come across that talks about the ZVE10. I want to ask, the luts on your website, do they work well on dark skintones?
Thanks man! I'm not sure how my LUTs would look on people with dark skin tones. They should work fine, but you may need to make minor adjustments to the exposure and Hue vs Saturation curves.
Hey there, how exactly do you overexpose by two stops? I mean, what's the definition of normal exposure? Without knowing that, I can't really overexpose, right? So how do I know what normal exposure looks like?
Correct S-Log2 exposure is 32IRE on an 18% grey card, 45-50IRE with skin tones (depending on how bright/dark the skin is), or 58-62IRE if you expose for highlights (whites). With that in mind, if you want to overexpose your shot, simply add a stop or two to the values I mentioned earlier. So 32IRE with an 18% grey card(32IRE) becomes 43IRE with one stop overexposure or 55IRE with two stops overexposure. If you expose for skin, 45-50IRE becomes 56-62IRE for one stop overexposure, and so on. I rarely use a grey card; instead, I expose for the skin because it's more practical. Or I use multimetering and make sure it never goes above +2.0. Hope this information helps.
@@Romafedorov I haven't used much of Zebra settings.
Let's say I want to shoot skin tones; I need to set up 45-50 IRE and then make sure zebra lines don't appear, right?
I've only used default zebra settings and was watching not to have zebras in any place on the screen.
@@ITSolutionsNetworkWhen you expose for the skin, you should set your zebras using Std+range. That means for the set IRE+range you will only get zebras when your subject is exposed in that IRE range. For white skin, you should use zebras set on 54 +/-2 range. Only when you see zebras on the face of the subjet means is the right skin exposure. When you expose for the skye, you'll be using zebras settings with lower limit. This is the zebra setting where you want to have no zebras. The story is a bit more complicated, but here is the main get away with.
Thanks for the video it helped me a lot! But i have a question… how should i set up my zebras if i just use the camera for filming overhead for product reviews? My hands and the item are visible the product should obviously have the main focus.
Thanks! When shooting overhead, use multi metering. Adjust the exposure until the multi metering reads +1.7/+2.0.
And how do you set iso ? Auto ? Range between 500-1600 ?
I try to have the ISO at 500 as much as I can.
What setting would you change when shooting at low light and night time?
Shooting in HLG2
Hola, tienes los mismos luts pero para adobe premier pro?
my zv e 10 won't let me change my exposure when im in manual exposure mode? any fix for this
Are you absolutely sure that you're in manual mode?
@@Romafedorov yessir I am in manual exposure mode it just switches exposure it starts blinking
Great video
hey, a good video! So witch profile would you suggest for daylight? and What do you think about slog3 for zve10?
S-Log2 or PP OFF for daylight. HLG2 for low-light conditions. S-Log3 can be used on the Sony ZV-E10, but I prefer S-Log2. In my opinion, the shadows are cleaner when shooting in S-Log2 on Sony ZV-E10.
@@Romafedorov thanx!
Hi Roma - Nice video I have a question: 90% of the time I shoot travel videos without a face, is it 95% valid also for this kind of video?
It depends on whether you're exposing for highlights or not. If you do, make sure the highlights never clip above 95% zebras. However, in some cases, you may want to overexpose the highlights to get more information in the shadows.
@@Romafedorov Thank you
I have a question that shocks me a lot is that since the sony zv e10 does not do slow motion at 4k, do you think it would be good to first record scenes for music videos at 4k and then repeat them again and record it at 1080 and thus scale it in editing
I don't see an issue with doing that. Or you can just deliver in 1080p, which is great too.
Why are you using S-Log2 opposed to HLG-3 on the ZV-E10?
I just prefer it.
I see the image kind of pinky and noisy :( how can I fix that?
Did you overexpose the image? Were you shooting at the base ISO od 500? Were you shooting in low light?
What metering mode do you use?
Multi metering
@@Romafedorov Thank you!
confusing af for a beginner