There are a couple other factors to consider: 1. With a drop beam, you will have longer joists that will be heavier and usually more expensive per foot, but they also only require one cut to get the right length. 2. Depending on the deck size and spans, there might be more waste generated when making the additional cuts in the joists for the flush beam. Wood that you’re buying but maybe throwing away. 3. A drop beam also blocks some access to the area under the deck that sometimes is enough to be used for some storage.
When using a flush beam, is it normal to have your footing post not right in the corner so that you can put the gaurd rail post real close to the corner where it should go? Leaving space for the gaurd rail post skirt of course.
I feel the "floating" deck (which uses the flush beam) is just the current fad that will be outdated in a few years. Where as the more traditional dropped-beam deck is timeless and therefore will maintain more real estate value in the long run.
Drop beam construction is the only real beam construction. What they call "flush beam is really just a rim joist with hangers. The drop beam deck will outlast the cheapskate shortcut hung deck by at least twice as long.
It is not like a rim joist though. It is like building a drop beam deck, but then putting your joists between the drop beams instead of on top. I don’t really see how it’s a shortcut. You still have to have the same amount of footers and posts. You have to double your joist hangers. Cutting way more joists too. Honestly I think a flush beam would take me longer to execute than a drop.
@@bloomgardenco.2328 You can call it a beam all you want, ...you can even double it up, but if it is the same level as the joists and attached to the ends of the joists it is a rim joist in my book. I built my deck with three beams and nine footings and posts freestanding with no ledger board...I did not use a single joist hanger on the whole deck. Joists had full bearing on the beams and attached with hurricane clips. Depending on hardware and hanging the load with fasteners is inferior carpentry. A drop beam design does not require any joist hangers at all and is superior engineering. All the load is transferred joist to beam to posts to footing to ground. Nothing is "hung" on fasteners.
My deck roof is 16 ft X20ft with low slope of 2/12. My contractor used a flush beam with 16 ft long roof rafters and hurricane hangers/hardwares. He didn’t use drop beam. Does it something that I should be concerned about 16 ft wide roof with flush beam without any support?
It depends on the size and spacing of the rafters. It appears that 2x8 rafters on 16” centers (14.5” between rafters) is code approved for 16’ spans. As they say, best to check. My understanding is that the roof pitch no longer effects the allowable span in the most current building code. Most areas require a permit for a roof, so the size and spacing should already have been checked by your local jurisdiction.
In nerd terms, rafters over drop beams would have slightly greater load carrying capacity, but not enough to be recognized by the international building code. I should have qualified my previous response. I live in an area that doesn’t have snow, and am used to looking at those tables. 2x10’s on 16” centers should be more than adequate if you don’t experience snowfall. With a 50 lb/sf snow load, the max span decreases from 19-6 to 14-2. The other qualifier is that those are the values for Doug-fir lumber, which again is what is commonly available in the US west. Other types of lumber generally have lower span limits.
Thanks. I appreciate it! My deck permit is still open and it is been 9 months that some work is not fixed and electrical inspection is not passed. My contractor is not taking my calls or replying to my texts. Also, Since the roof frame was built, I have emailed two three times to the contractor and architect engineer and expressed my concern about the flush beam design they selected for my deck roof. They didn’t do any changes and the framing/ building inspection was passed but I am still not happy/satisfied with the flush beam as we get lots of snow every year and it sits on our roof for weeks before it starts melting. In worse case scenario who will be responsible for all that?
Sounds like your greater issue might be with the building department. If you get a lot of snow, I’m not sure how the design you have described would meet current building code. Similarly, I’m not sure how the design you have described would pass the plan review. There might be some professional liability on the line from all three, or at least the BP and design professional.
What he is calling a "flush beam" is really a rim joist with Joist hangers. Load should never be carried hung on fasteners. To do so is shoddy carpentry and a hacks cheapo shortcut. Load path should be wood to wood to wood to concrete to ground. Fasteners should only hold components together. Fasteners are not appropriate to hold components up.
There are a couple other factors to consider:
1. With a drop beam, you will have longer joists that will be heavier and usually more expensive per foot, but they also only require one cut to get the right length.
2. Depending on the deck size and spans, there might be more waste generated when making the additional cuts in the joists for the flush beam. Wood that you’re buying but maybe throwing away.
3. A drop beam also blocks some access to the area under the deck that sometimes is enough to be used for some storage.
When using a flush beam, is it normal to have your footing post not right in the corner so that you can put the gaurd rail post real close to the corner where it should go? Leaving space for the gaurd rail post skirt of course.
Great video!
I always use the flush beam style. This way I have the posts go from bearing on concrete to top rail, making for the most sturdy hand rails.
Nobody this hot actually builds decks. Lindsay isn’t bad either.
I was going to comment, "Came for the info, stayed for the hottie." Then I thought I should probably specify which one. 🤣🤣
@@ACobra289 Ha!
This is helpful.
I feel the "floating" deck (which uses the flush beam) is just the current fad that will be outdated in a few years. Where as the more traditional dropped-beam deck is timeless and therefore will maintain more real estate value in the long run.
You might have it backwards. I believe the term floating deck comes from the cantilever allowed by a drop beam.
Drop beam construction is the only real beam construction. What they call "flush beam is really just a rim joist with hangers. The drop beam deck will outlast the cheapskate shortcut hung deck by at least twice as long.
It is not like a rim joist though. It is like building a drop beam deck, but then putting your joists between the drop beams instead of on top.
I don’t really see how it’s a shortcut. You still have to have the same amount of footers and posts. You have to double your joist hangers. Cutting way more joists too. Honestly I think a flush beam would take me longer to execute than a drop.
@@bloomgardenco.2328 You can call it a beam all you want, ...you can even double it up, but if it is the same level as the joists and attached to the ends of the joists it is a rim joist in my book. I built my deck with three beams and nine footings and posts freestanding with no ledger board...I did not use a single joist hanger on the whole deck. Joists had full bearing on the beams and attached with hurricane clips. Depending on hardware and hanging the load with fasteners is inferior carpentry. A drop beam design does not require any joist hangers at all and is superior engineering. All the load is transferred joist to beam to posts to footing to ground. Nothing is "hung" on fasteners.
I have built many houses and there is nothing wrong with a flush beam
much appreciated 🙏
You don’t need the blocking on the beam config
My deck roof is 16 ft X20ft with low slope of 2/12. My contractor used a flush beam with 16 ft long roof rafters and hurricane hangers/hardwares. He didn’t use drop beam. Does it something that I should be concerned about 16 ft wide roof with flush beam without any support?
It depends on the size and spacing of the rafters. It appears that 2x8 rafters on 16” centers (14.5” between rafters) is code approved for 16’ spans. As they say, best to check.
My understanding is that the roof pitch no longer effects the allowable span in the most current building code.
Most areas require a permit for a roof, so the size and spacing should already have been checked by your local jurisdiction.
@@johnlee7085 thank you for your reply. The joist used are 2X10 at 16” apart. Is flush beam method is equally strong as drop beam method?
In nerd terms, rafters over drop beams would have slightly greater load carrying capacity, but not enough to be recognized by the international building code.
I should have qualified my previous response. I live in an area that doesn’t have snow, and am used to looking at those tables.
2x10’s on 16” centers should be more than adequate if you don’t experience snowfall. With a 50 lb/sf snow load, the max span decreases from 19-6 to 14-2. The other qualifier is that those are the values for Doug-fir lumber, which again is what is commonly available in the US west. Other types of lumber generally have lower span limits.
Thanks. I appreciate it!
My deck permit is still open and it is been 9 months that some work is not fixed and electrical inspection is not passed. My contractor is not taking my calls or replying to my texts.
Also, Since the roof frame was built, I have emailed two three times to the contractor and architect engineer and expressed my concern about the flush beam design they selected for my deck roof. They didn’t do any changes and the framing/ building inspection was passed but I am still not happy/satisfied with the flush beam as we get lots of snow every year and it sits on our roof for weeks before it starts melting. In worse case scenario who will be responsible for all that?
Sounds like your greater issue might be with the building department. If you get a lot of snow, I’m not sure how the design you have described would meet current building code. Similarly, I’m not sure how the design you have described would pass the plan review. There might be some professional liability on the line from all three, or at least the BP and design professional.
Seems like dropped beam is infinitely stronger build.
There is some structural benefit to having the joists continue over the beam though there is no code benefit for increased allowable span.
It will outlive the hung deck by a factor of at least two. Fasteners are not designed or adequate to hang a structure on.
What he is calling a "flush beam" is really a rim joist with Joist hangers.
Load should never be carried hung on fasteners. To do so is shoddy carpentry and a hacks cheapo shortcut.
Load path should be wood to wood to wood to concrete to ground. Fasteners should only hold components together. Fasteners are not appropriate to hold components up.