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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- Get step-by-step instructions for installing deck ledgers, beams, and posts for your Trex® deck. For more information about the tips, tools and materials used in this video, visit: cur.lt/y8pcoikvc
Key moments in this video:
0:00 Intro
0:31 Determine Ledger Location
3:19 Establish Beam Height
4:20 Support Post Install
5:48 Mark Post for Bottom of Beam
8:03 Post-to-Beam Connections
14:14 Cutting the Posts
16:08 Chemical Treatment
17:14 Beam Install
36:58 Backfill Post Holes
38:26 Post-to-Beam Bracing
39:37 Add Beam Tape
40:35 Recap - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Really detailed instructions on the structural building of the deck
The only thing I'd add is to make sure your bolts are offset when securing the beam to the post (possible splitting of the timber grains) pre drilling helps, but better to be safe than sorry.
I'm planning to build by own second level deck deck next spring, and as a moderately skilled DIYer I want to hold very closely to code and construction best practices. When I first started looking into this a year ago there were a few decent instruction videos but none of them were exactly what I was looking for. Now I come back a year later, and THIS is the series I was looking for. Extremely detailed and helpful, thank you!
Thank you so much for the feedback Jackson! We're thrilled to hear you've enjoyed this video.
Can’t find a deck builder with availability this spring. Need more vids like this for the DIY’ers!
Hello Jed, if you are looking for a builder, here is the link to our find a builder tool: www.trex.com/find-a-builder/. If you have any other additional questions, please feel free to give us a call at 1.800.289.8739. -Thank you, Trex Customer Care
If you have any clay soil in your post holes water will not drain, you’ve basically made a hole for water to hangout in. Concrete pier would be far better or the old concrete fill method.
I have been wondering why so many yt videos seem to have no problem with dirt/wood contact when in my area that’s a recipe for rot. Clay vs sand soil makes sense. Thanks.
This is great information. Thanks.
Indeed,it's great information. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for this upload; 'twas very helpful.😄😄😄
Thanks for putting this video out, very clear and simply explained
Thanks for watching, Zachary!
First, there was nothing said, that I heard, about putting pea gravel in the bottoms of the holes for drainage. This may not be required where you are, but it is in other areas and it is a good idea whether it's required or not. Second, there appeared to be an assumption that the concrete in each hole is exactly level with all the other holes. This is necessary to make sure the tops of the posts are exactly level. Or, you start with where the tops of the beams will be and run a level line from the side of the house to the outermost post. You mark those and cut any that require it. That will assure that the tops of all the posts are perfectly level. This is an extremely crucial step.
I built my own deck, not attached to the house, and used the method of attaching one beam on each side of the post. Unapproved; but, being the deck is not attached, this wasn't a concern. That was over 20 years ago. The deck is still rock solid. BTW, my deck is made of Trex.
I agree with drainage. They should mention it as the proper way. It will always be better to have it.
Seems like they prefer to adjust (cut) every post individually.
I enjoyed the video alot
Love this video,
How come you don’t put the ledger board up first? Is there a reason?
How did they know where to notch out the other posts without repeating the process of leveling the 2x4 against the ledger? Looks as if making them the exact same height of the original 2 6x6 posts would make them incorrect height because the post holes dug may be at slightly different depths. Explanation would be very helpful
Hi Umar! The height needs to be measured off of the ledger to determine the correct height for each post. This can be done by leveling out to each post from the ledger or leveling to one post from the ledger and then leveling from that post to the next post and repeat that process to all posts. - Trex Customer Care
@@TheTrexCo That is just common sense but at first I thought the same thing than logic or experience told me it had to be repeated off the level ledger line or post to post.
Yeah. I would have done them one by one as well as opposed to mass produce based off of the measurements of the one. But that's just me.
Good video - the footings method is bonkers to me. Guess it works for this location though.
Living in the Pacific Northwest rainforest, I see those posts set in concrete below grade to be the weakest part of the whole design. I know you get away with it in dry climates, but when it fails you end up having to replace everything. Better to use concrete posts that bring all wood at least 8" above ground. When the wood ultimately fails, the foundation survives to support the next deck years later, without painstaking effort to dig out the remains of the old supports.
Just set the post first in concrete and let them run long and use a laser to mark the beam notches. I use a circular saw to do the majority of the cut and finish it with the timber blade for my jig saw.
-please someone show them how to use the post level with the rubber band going on the post
By putting the structural screws every 16” 2” from top and 2” from bottom all the way down on the beam, wouldn’t you be concerned of the wood splitting? Just wondering.
Hi. Did you bolt in the post to the concrete base?
Personally, I have some issues with your methods.
1) Your footing piers should be a minimum of 2 inches above ground level. This is to prevent moisture & rot, which WILL happen with the backfill method you are using.
2) while notching your 6 x 6 post may be "code compliant" in your area and is "your preference", what you have essentially done is use a 4 x 4 post to rest your beam on. Much better to use simson strong ties. This also requires less labor then notching posts.
3) you attached your beam to posts using exterior grade wood screws. You do not say these are "structual" screws such as Fastenmaster structual screws, or "t-brace metal attachment for beam to post
It's actually resting on 4x6 not a 4x4. Also if your looking at using stainless steel fastners 2- 1/2 " stainless steel bolts are much cheaper than. the simpson stainless post cap the cheapest I could find was 40 dollars a pop ouch!
Good morning, thanks forcall your great videos! Question: I'm rebuilding my deck, it's 12x25 and the original deck was is cantilevered, so joists are attached to floor joists inside my family room. This is the 3rd rebuild on this deck and these old joists are no longer structurally sound. I would like to cut them off and install a ledgerboard in their place.
My home is stucco. So I'm concerned with installing thru stucco and ensuring a strong, sealed connection with the house. Also, once I cut old joists off (at the stucco), how do i seal these as thevrotted joists extend into my subfloor?they seem to be sealed well at the stucco interface, but whatvabout the exposed end cut?
Alternatively I could install new footers up against the house and place new beam on it. However, deck is elevated about 5 ft and we have basement windows that posts would block.
Do you have any recommendations? 0:27
I subscribed, i wanna learn how to do decking , as journeyman carpenter i like to keep on learning. 👍 I don't trust using a stringline level. I agree a 6x6 post would be more supportive and very strong for large decking. Ive seen a decking where someone used 2x4 boards as decking and i was like 🤦. If i steal your idea don't be upset 😂 because im not going to make millions out of this tutorial....im just gonna do a few sidejobs for some people that would pay me decent. Im mainly an all around carpenter ....i keep on learning.
What is a good way to do the corner connections with a 6x6 post and (2) 2x10 beam? I saw some hardware especially for it, but it was crazy expensive.
Assuming you are talking about two beams that would need to bear on one post. Run one of the beams flush to the end of the post, and then use an inverted flange double 2x10 hanger to attach the other beam to the one that was run all the way through.
One of the best DIY videos I have ever seen. Kudos to you! We are looking to extend our 2nd level 12x16 deck with roof by building a 12'Lx16'W second level uncovered deck extension (about 9' from ground). We need the beam to span 16 feet (no middle post) to avoid blocking the basement door. We plan to 2 use 2 2x12x16 supported by 8x8 post (to match existing covered deck). Is this adequate or would you suggest 3 2x12x16 for the beam? By way of reference, we used 4 glulaminated beams (3 sides plus 1 in the middle) supported by 4 8x8s for the covered deck.
Hi Danny, Thank you for the positive feed back on our video. We can not give any specific recommendations on the substructure as we do not manufacture that product. What we can recommend, is to reach out to your local code official. Every area is going to be different, and they will tell you what is recommended in your area for the substructure. Thank you again for the great feed back and please, reach out to us at 1-800-289-8739 if you have any further questions. Trex Customer Care
Hi Danny - Excellent question. This may be a bit old, but the size of the beam you will use depends on the loads that will be applied. It will be best to check with a local engineer to size the beam properly. The roof will also catch wind, so there will be wind and shear loads that should be accounted for. Hope your project turned out!
Can you use the same notch detail if you have a 2 story post that supports beams on both floors?
Hi David. Thank you for reaching out to Trex and your interest in our products. We would recommend reaching out to the local municipality. As a second story deck adds more load to the post, different criteria can be applied to it. The local municipality would need to confirm this information for you. Please feel free to reach back out with any further questions or concerns. Someone from our Customer Care Team will be more than happy to assist. Thank you for choosing Trex. 1.800.289.8739 | customercare@trex.com
I don't see how letting the posts sitting in dirt can be code approved.
nope, nor do i see how you would work around the braces overlapping the beam
Concrete for a back-fill is a bad idea. I wouldn't do it even if the municipality said I should. I'd fight it or ignore them. Crushed stone is a decent option but a bit overkill if you have a larger hole. Here in New Hampshire we have a 4' footer depth (I use plastic footers). We back-fill with inorganic dirt and then the top few inches are gravel.
I found the exact same wood presevative but the label says: for "non pressure treaded wood" on the label. Isn't this pressure treated lumber?
Hi Will. This is a great question and thank you for reaching out to Trex. The preservative was applied to the cut ends that were not previously treated. This will ensure the entire piece of lumber is protected. Please let us know if you have any additional questions. Someone from our Customer Care Team will be more than happy to assist. Kind Regards. -Trex Customer Care 800-289-8739 | customercare@trex.com
What did you use to make the big square
Great series. Any suggestions on how to do this if you're using cast-in-place post bases instead?
Thank you so much for reaching out! All of our railing systems are intended to be mounted post to post including a foot block for support. We would love to speak to you about this more! When you have a moment, please give us a call at 1-800-289-8739. We look forward to hearing from you! ~ Trex Customer Care Team
@@TheTrexCo My question (and this video) had nothing to do with railings.
Thank you for reaching out Eric! I apologize for the misunderstanding. For guidance on using cast-in-place bases, we would recommend the following steps: • Dig the holes where needed, so the center of the post is approximately at the center of the hole.
• Measure and install a string line near the center of the holes. Make sure the string line is a few inches above the top of the hole. Make sure the string line is level from side to side. This string line will be the outside edge of the post so calculate and measure accordingly.
• Pour the concrete into the hole.
• While the concrete is wet, push the cast in place post base into the concrete. Align the post base front edge with the string. Repeat with other bases. Make all bases the same distance height wise to the string.
• Finish concrete with a trowel and let the concrete harden while the base is in place.
Please feel free to reach out if you have any further questions! Our number is 1-800-289-8739. Thank you again! ~ Trex Customer Care Team
Do you need to add a gradient for water run off?
Why is it conventional wisdom/practice to connect your deck to the house? Cannot the deck be completely free standing without attachment through ledger board to the house?
Without putting fabric down, that gravel will mix into the surrounding soil over time and it’ll still end up logged with water.
They tried to make it as old school TV home improvement show as they could. Where a host would ask the questions people at home ask. They did get it pretty close. Sad part is someone will watch this & think they can go do it. Then someone who knows it will have to come fix it. But hey gives me some work fixing video attempts at skilled labor.
They’re somewhere that it snows enough to design a step-down deck, but not enough to go more than 24” for their post-hole depth??
Even if that is “code” in their area, frankly it’s not enough if there is going to be any substantial freezing.
I live above the 45th Parallel, and we obviously go at least 42”. Anything north of Kentucky should be minimum 32”.
Am I missing something?
All the notches and carriage bolts in the world won’t keep that deck from heaving.
Nice looking product though. Thanks for the content!
10:14 the 3rd example, why isn't that code approved? That is how the ledger board is supported. Supported only by the bolts and no post support. Also, how are the posts, in this video, attached to the footings? Last video was footings, this video involved the posts but what step isn't shown that leads up to gravel being backfilled in the holes at 37:00?
Just a guess, but I'm thinking the bolts aren't providing as much load support as the ledger board which has screws every 21 inches If I remember the video correctly. The bolts would be supporting load over several feet in that post to beam bolted arrangement. Then, it all comes down to what the local code and building inspector says. Which can vary from one municipality to the next. Fairly sure I have seen beams attached this way on pro jobs, but they were much heavier build than a couple of 1/2 inch bolts.
On the footings I wondered the same thing. It appears to me that there was not any attachment between the posts and footings. They poured 6 inches of concrete below freeze line and just set the posts on top of it. Don't see any reason it wouldn't work, but I thought code now required posts to be 100% above ground and a space between the base and the post - why metal post supports have 1 inch standoff at the bottom. Then maybe's that's just marketing.
I mentioned this recently to a local contractor in my area when he quoted me for deck build. He just digs 1 foot diameter hole to freeze line and fills with concrete to ground level. Then puts post on top of the poured column. Post above ground. Ground contact, but not buried. No attachment between the post and footings. 6 x 6 post just sitting on the poured footing. Local inspector approved the build. Guess the decks were too heavy for concern about wind lift. 🙂
However, If I was in a high wind area, costal, mountains, or something I would definitely want them attached to the footing some way.
@@johnb197 here in Pittsburgh the footers have to be down 4ft. And everywhere around here the posts have to be mechanically attached to the footers. You can also make the footer ground level, as long as it's 4ft down. If the post is not attached to the footer, the hole has to be filled up to the top with cement. Crazy how things differ so much from boro to boro! I'm getting ready to help a friend with his deck build. Haven't got to the boro yet. So we'll see them what they say. These things should go by county by county!
Hello. Thank you so much for your interest in Trex and reaching out with your inquiry. What’s approved varies quite a bit so it’s best to check with your local municipality. A document that often serves as the base document for municipalities writing deck building regulations in the US is the DCA-6, Prescriptive Residential Wood Deck Construction Guide. On page 10, figure 9 of the DCA-6 you’ll see that [third] example is not approved. What’s permitted when it comes to footings varies quite a bit, so it’s best to check with your local municipality. Approved by municipalities in several regions of the US, including the municipality where this deck was constructed, is the use of a ground contact rated pressure treated post placed on a specified size concrete footer at a specified depth. No additional below grade brackets are required by some municipalities, just backfill up to grade around the posts and you’ve met the required detail. You’ll notice that in the DCA-6, page 13, figure 12, “Typical Footing Options”, the option without brackets calls for ½ rods to be installed prior to backfilling, reinforcing how much what’s permitted varies and why it’s best to check with your local municipality before beginning your project. If you have any additional questions, please feel free to reach back out to Trex. Someone from our Customer Care Team will be more than happy to assist. Kind Regards. -Trex Customer Care
I am building my deck with example #3. If you used the correct number and size of fasteners rather than just 2 6" bolts, that connection would be just as strong as any reliance on the little metal brackets. I understand the beams wouldn't be supported by the post, but the beams are not really supported from buckling unless there is good amount of boxing. Sometimes I think rafter tie brackets and post connectors ect are given too much credit because their gauge thickness just isn't there. They have decent tensile strength, but little to no lateral or shear strength. Code isn't always common sense, its what somebody says is good enough at the time until they are proven otherwise due to failure. That's why codes are always changing. The deck I just removed was 40 years old and was built with example #3 on 4x4 posts and it has seen everything nature could throw at it except a tornado. I am stepping up to 6x6 posts but with the GRX ceramic fasteners nowadays, there is absolutely no reason it can't be done. Plus I live in the country, so I have that going for me.
@@wagonerjared I built my sister's pool deck with #3. It's been there for almost 15 years and still sturdy as ever. 2 carriage bolts and 4 construction screws in each post with two 2x6 beams in either side of 2 posts each with a total of 10 posts and 10 beams that wrap around one third of the pool.
How did you find the top of the posts and where the beam notches will be on the rest of the posts when it appears you never used the straight edge and the beam board that is attached to the house wall? It never moved.
Hello. Thank you for reaching out and your interest in Trex. Reference time 16:42, the video states that they need to repeat the process to mark the rest of the posts, cut and treat them. We swiveled the straight edge from the house to each hole and marked in the same manner to come up with each post beam height. I hope this information is helpful to you. Please feel free to reach back out with any further questions or concerns. Someone from our Customer Care Team will be more than happy to assist. Kind Regards. -Trex Customer Care 1.800.289.8739 | customercare@trex.com
@@TheTrexCo Thank you, I did not catch that at first. Swiveling the straight edge is another good tip.
your bolts that attached the beam to the post. you are within that 2" mark when you have a splice... is that ok?
Hi Neil, thank you for reaching out to us today! Great question, Yes, it is okay since the bolts are predrilled so the wood will not split. If you have any other questions please give us a call at 800-289-8739. Have a great day! -Trex Customer Care
Hi Devin, are the beam posts divide evenly apart?
Thank you for reaching out! Typically, these can be divided evenly, but you would always want to check with a local code official for regulations in your area. ~ Trex Customer Care Team
Materials list? Wood sealer info and fasteners, screws etc?
Our Deck Designer Tool can assist you in generating a material list www.trex.com/build-your-deck/planyourdeck/deck-designer/ Infrastructure requirements can vary depending on your local code's requirements. Always check in with your local coding officials prior to beginning a decking project. Have a great day! - Trex Customer Care Team
How much of this would apply to a small free-standing 7×5=35sf Platform or Landing?
For sure . . . Footers & Handrails and shear supported framing. Anything else ?
P.S. ENJOY YOUR SERIES
After showing my footing insp. all of the posts I double notched he said those exposed areas of wood will never rot.
You can clearly see how shallow the preservative penetrated.
I threw those notched pieces I cut from the posts in the nearby bushes for future observation.
AND. . . FYI Treated 6x6 is not always 5 1/2x 5 1/2. Measure it and see.
You can get different sizes from the same pile in the store.
You never said how long your 2 by 4’s were to make the stand ?
anyone ever have a new guy show up with a shiny new tool belt? I grab them, throw it on the ground and kick it around like a soccer ball. 😂😂😂
All these new belts are giving me the itch.
So one of all things you covered. You just jammed a post into the ground and never went over how They're all the same height.
The "code approved " statement is a bit misleading in that codes can be different from state to state and county to county . the notch method is secure but i don't use it because it collects water onto end grain . coating it with the same sealer used in pressure treating is not as effective as pressure treated . aside from that , using half inch diameter or larger galvanized bolts is plenty strong , a half inch bolt can withstand 20, ooo lbs of shear force on it , so if you live in an area where codes won't be an issue , it will be more than strong enough . just use extra large washers to spread the weight out .
agree
I wouldn't be surprised if they now wish they would have made it a step out instead. There are other solutions to prevent the snow from gathering at the door.
Where are the other videos to this????
Hello, We have all of our Trex Academy videos on our website. You can access them through this link. Please let us know if we can assist you any further and have a great day.
Trex Customer Care Team 1-800-289-8739
Didn't pitch away from the house? 🤔
why you have to connect the porch to the house?
Hello, we recommend that the deck be anchored down and not floating. If it is floating, there is a chance that the substructure could shift and which then the boards would as well. Thank you, - Trex Customer Care
So why did you pick this method?
Because I decided to.
Well, ok, then.
In all the videos i never see how to determine post height
Hello Chris, please give us a call at 1.800.289.8739 to discuss this situation further. - Thank you, Trex Customer Care
Jason thought he was working to hard so he bugged out.
Why are you talking to with each other with ear plugs in?
Can’t watch this…excruciating!
None of these “thorough” deck building videos ever explain how to determine the amount of posts needed as every deck is different….
Your joists are level? Don't you want them to be angled down 1/2" for every 8 feet away from the house?
Hmmmmmmmmm here in New Mexico. Our codes will not let you build a deck like that. Actually everything you did we cannot do.
Ledger board? IMO it's far better to build a freestanding deck which
doesn't require a ledger board attached to the home which can be
very problematic. Not only that in the case of a so called mobile home
decks are required to be freestanding. So I say forget the ledger board!
So her job is to say, "Okay", "alright", "sure" and "I see".
Lmao you forgot, "got it", and "aha"
That’s my wife’s job too
@@doctornamelisted4280 I wish my wife were that agreeable. JK, I'm single
She didn't even hold a flashlight!
She also asks “Why did you choose to (use this particular method)?” I found that helpful.
Why are they wearing earplugs while talking to each other?
This video series is super informative, but why did they have a random dude stop by for half of one video? Awkward writing!
This install is cringeworthy for a variety of reasons, most of which have been explained in the previous comments. Just too many steps for my comfort level.
This is for a beginner like me. So I appreciate it
Hello. Thank you for your interest in Trex and your great feedback. We look forward to serving you in the future. Kindly, Trex Customer Care
Gravel back fill lmao wtf kind of construction is this!?!? Theres absolutely nothing structural about this build. Wind could theoretically pick it straight up out of the ground. You either backfill with concrete, use fast 2k (expanding epoxy), or you use a simpson tie bolted to the concrete and nailed to the beam. Gravel in a hole isnt wicking anything away. If anything id argue its holding the water closer to the post. Must be another right to work state with its "licensed/bonded" wood butchers.
You gay come to my house make deck?