I don’t like riding with spiked tires, but they’ve saved me from black ice more than once. So yes, consider studs a necessity. Been running Schwalbe Marathon Winter H396.
I run the same in a 42-622 (700x42c) on my main bike and have 2x 26"x2.0" sets for 2 other bikes, one of which is a MTB tandem for the wife and I. Good commuter tires and great in the ice and snow.
My one objection to the Schwalbe studded tires I’ve ridden is that they have studs all over the tire including on the normal rolling path, so when you hit a patch of pavement they go tick-a-tack-a-tick-a-tack-a. Maybe good for rear traction uphill or something? But honestly no. For ice you need studs on the corner of the tire when you’re turning or about to eat shit. It’s like magic.
@@tomalcolm Yeah, that's a big downside. I run Schwalbe Winters, NOT Marathon Winters, and they only have the center pair of studs. On one hand the smaller tread block size is nicer on pavement that something like a Nokian tire, but on the other hand you're always riding on the studs.
@@tomalcolm I think the fact that it sounds like frying bacon on dry pavement is part of their charm. ;-) They roll really well in my experience. Studded winter car tires make the same noises. It's not a deal breaker for me, but I could see it being a bother to some people. I'd rather have better traction instead of slipping first, almost falling, and then catching the studs...
700x35 shwalbe studded tires on my fixed gear with a front brake is what I run for the winter here in montreal, Pretty fast and it never fails even with a crunchy dorito chain. Oh and a removable fender because full fenders get so much stuff stuck in em that they're impossible tu run, Great vids man keep em comin!
Favourite winter commuter bikes would be a decent quality 90’s steel framed mountain bike with 26” wheels. Decent tire clearance for grip and stability (usually up to 2.3), lots of cheap used options for bikes and tires, mounts for common racks. Plus the frame geometry is more similar to a modern urban bike. And if you’re real lucky, you’ll get a frame with a sweet “90’s” paint job! Thanks for the great winter cycling content!
Narrow tires are better in snow and slush, IF there's tarmac below. Navigation of Ruts made in 6in of overnight snow fall is impossible with wide tires
I run 45 Nrth 2.1 inch Gravdals on my old Trek MTB for my winter bike and also use a clip on fender for the rear. It gets the job done and as you say - fat bikes are a little sluggish on city streets. When we do hit the trails on the occasion we get deep snow I just follow the guys on the fat bikes!
I've always run studs on snow and ice. I've seen one too many people go down hard in those areas that sneak up on you where the snow has blown away and only ice is left. There are other things you wouldn't think of like slippery wooden bridges - I saw a guy cross a wood bridge on his back at speed in a race once since the bike went out from under him. For those that have been watching long enough I'm sure we all remember your accident a while back on ice, Russ. That looked so painful! Studded tires are much cheaper than medical bills. One issue I have with my studded fat bike tires however is that I don't have much traction on pavement. I run the dillinger's by 45nrth. Not sure if others have had the same problem. I just stick to riding those off-road, which I suppose is what they're designed for anyway.
I bought a set of studded tires in fall 2018. Since then there has been neither snow nor ice here. It has never happened before. That's why it was a very good buy. 🤪
Hi Russ, great information and explanation of the plus sized tires vs the fat tire options for the type of conditions and riding one might have in their locale. Here in Michigan we are faced with conditions just like you have. I like your setup as well. Thank you!
I am currently running Ice spiker pro 27.5 x 2.6 on a Stance E2 . Last year I ran my Outpost GT with marathon winter plus 26x2 tires and yes on the street the marathon dug down to the pavement well.
If you live in a winter environment that has abundant sunshine (Colorado), higher temps, freeze/thaw, and traffic-buffed urban icy intersections, studs are an absolute necessity. I've used either CX or Gravel bikes with a 700x42-45 tire for the last fifteen years for a commute that is (mostly plowed) bike paths and slick city streets and have only crashed twice (harmlessly) in that time. I had a fat bike for two years, and for my ride it was overkill and heavy, and I sold it. I also find that lower gear ratios really help in fresh or unpacked snow, so if you've been saving an old triple crank, you might find a use for it. :) I also prefer swept bars and upright posture for the winter... and a pair of old insulated coveralls worn over everything else that you don't care how wet/dirty they get!
@Dale Rides MTB They're Schwalbe ... I'm not sure of the specific model, but they only have two rows of studs, not four, which makes them a bit lighter...
The universe spoke through you today! I'm not kidding. I was sitting here having coffee this morning and thinking about the recent ice and rain cycles we are experiencing this winter in Maine, where I live. I was trying to decide if I needed my Fat Bike today. Then I remembered my new spikes out in my shop. Without a complete plan on what to do, I just turned on Utube and there was your latest update about winter commuting. No kidding. I have began putting the new treads onto my 1990 Specialized Stump Jumper. My old favorite. Thank you for the inspiration Man!
I use my Soma Fog Cutter year round. Once winter arrives in Vancouver I add a studded Schwalbe Marathon in 700x28 to replace the standard 700x42 semi-slick that is on the front. The rear tire continues on with whatever 42mm tire I have there. As for bars, I love my Jones H-bars. One day when I am feeling rich I will purchase the carbon version for winter riding. My hands notice the cold being conducted through the grips. That is with pogies. And full fenders. All year. With flaps.
I am in NE Wyoming and have a 84 Trek rigid MTB for a dedicated winter bike for commuting and life support. 26 x 2 45 North Gravdals. The bike is down for two weeks for a drive train conversion to Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal hub, Hollowtech ll bottom bracket and Nexus crank. New brakes. I was running Kenda Klondike’s 26 x 1.95 but needed studs on center for all the ice on downtown streets slurping off the buildings and alleys. Yes to more winter bike commuting content. Love seeing your build.
Well said, my preference is just low pressure instead of studded tires. Studden tires is very subjective and varies on your mix of conditions. I've commuted with studden tires and with just 26" x 2.5" tires. I found that studden tires for myself and my commute often slowed me down more than finding them useful. Often more of my commute ended up on pavement. There are days that full snow/ice coverage the key is just going slow regardless of tires. I personally determined I was just better off without studs and just a wider tire. Winter commuting you aren't going to be fast is what I've learned. Speed works against you in winter.
This is great stuff Russ! I love content like this. The rack and basket combo is awesome and that handlebar setup is really classy. Really like that vintage commuter vibe. Thanks
Great looking bike. I'm watching this a second time. The snow looks so Nnnnniiiicccccceeeee!!! I'm watching from Phoenix Az, 9-3-2022 and it was 106F today. 🚵♂️❄️❄️☃️
My tire experience has matched yours: narrower studded tires do great on urban, slick roads. Thanks for the great explanation on why. Whatever lense/camera combo you’re using recently is just amazing. The super narrow depth of field paired with the beautiful lighting looks superb.
>My tire experience has matched yours: narrower studded tires do great on urban, slick roads. It really, really, really depends on where you live. People in Colorado are probably best served by really skinny tires, like a 23c, in the snow but people in Boston need something much wider. You aren't going to "cut through the snow down to pavement" in snow that deep! There's no one single best winter tire. Geography matters oh so much when making a recommendation. Even in my area of Minnesota the tire I'd recommend where I live in the suburbs is different than what I'd recommend for somebody up in Minneapolis/St. Paul. I'd literally recommend a knobbier tire with more studs for somebody in MSP than I personally use because we **don't** have bike trails where I live so I ride on the pavement in the car tire track rather than a icy, rutted bike trail.
I have tire chains that work beautifully on packed-snow roads. I got them from Velotique many years ago but they could easily be diy with stainless cable, cable clips, and short lengths of link chain. (Think of the chains that are sometimes found on snowblowers.)
I use a medium skinny studded tire in the front and a regular tire with grippy compound on the back. Adjust the front tire pressure as needed. Studded tires can slip on pavement, so care must be taken. I haven't found that tread makes too much difference, but there are certain tires, like the old german Conti's, that grip better in very cold temperatures. Happy holidays and thanks for all the good videos!
[Studded tires can slip on pavement, so care must be taken.] Indeed! And the traction gives out with absolutely no warning. I have posted further comment on detail on that above.
Like studs on snowboots, and on car tires, studs can be a real help on ice, a danger on clear asphalt, and especially a danger on concrete: It's rarely discussed on bicycle channels, so let's see how they work on cars: [Not The First Choice For Everyone Just as standard winter tires aren’t ideal on ice, studded tires aren’t the best all-around performers either. When driving on a clear road you’re actually giving up traction with a studded set, because the tire’s treadblock makes less contact with the pavement - which can also affect wet weather driving or driving on slush as the treadblocks try to channel away water. It’s most noticeable when braking on a slick, cold road surface in the absence of snow or ice, which means city and suburban dwellers are more often handicapped by studs rather than helped.] :- The truth about studded tires
I went from drops to VO uprights and back to drops again, with more trouble and expense than I was looking for. After years of riding I find that letting my hands wander over drop bars is the only thing that doesn’t give me numbness and CTS. Jones bars don’t help either. As a car-free/year-round rider in Seattle dealing with a lot of rain and only a little snow I’ve found 3 things that really make a difference: fenders, touring tires, and disc brakes. Full fenders are best for limiting mud a debris in the drivetrain. Touring tires like the Schawlbe Dureme get WAY fewer flats than tan-wall suppleness. And disc brakes make for less filth on the rims. Lightweight front rack and wire basket completes the package. For lights I use a headlamp, twin Planet Bike lights up front, red blinky light in back.
Studs are a must in South-central Alaska, as even groomed and paved trails are icy about half the year. I run 700C Nokians on my Surly Cross Check. I have three sets of studded tires for primary bike, a Moots Frosthammer. For ice and firm trails I run 27.5”x3” 45Nrth Wrathchilds, swap to 27.5”x4” 45Nrth Dillinger 4 in firm snow, then to 26”x5” Dillinger 5 for soft conditions. The large, aggressive studs on the Wratchilds are phenomenal on even the hardest ice. Happy trails!
Schwalbe Marathon studs here on an old Shogun MTN bike fromnthe 90s here. Chaged to euro bars but still have the biopace crank. Studs were worth it and the retro reflecting sidewalls are very nice too.
Nice bike and great review. Thanks! I've been running these 45Nrth Kahva 29" X 2.25" tires for a couple of hundred miles so far this winter in North Idaho. Mixed dry pavement, ice, fresh powder over slop, sheet ice, the whole nine. They're awesome, as long as you don't expect them to float on fresh powder like a fat or plus tire. They DO dig down and get grip really well, and I'm learning to trust them more every ride. These are my third set of winter "ride whatever winter throws at me" tires, after Kenda Klondikes in regular and wide 26" variants. Those were great too. I'm running them on my one bike year round commuter and trail bike, a Specialized Enduro, and they're set up tubeless with Orange Seal Extreme in 'em. Next I'm going to drop the pressure from 28/32 psi, down to the 25/28 psi range and see if the increased traction adds much rolling resistance. As they are, they roll really well, and they've been very impressive. Cheers.
I'm into small wheeled shopper bikes, they're excellent in snow. I was cycling at a fair speed along a very snowy road when an impatient Porsche Cayenne 4x4 got impatient and went for an overtake, only to pirouette in the middle of the road and end up backwards in the ditch
Here in Winnipeg(Canada) I'm running a 700x32C studded tire. I just but them on yesterday. I biked all winter last year for the first time and the studs were great. Loud on bare pavement and they feel different but once the snow comes I won't notice anymore. Other things I had to change for winter riding. Flat pedals instead of clips and I think I['ve added 3 more lights. one front, one back and one more on my helmet. total of 6.
Nice setup. I turned to the swept back bars / upright riding position some years back. Not going back to anything uncomfortable! Front rack of choice has been the topit by rack time. Something to think about, I have been using yeti cooler baskets for my basket. Only 3” high. Can choose between a 10x10’ or 12”x12” basket. The rubber coated wire is the same diameter roughly of cables so it compliments the look nicely. The 3” height makes it a little more low profile and if needed you can strap stuff on top. Those mini cargo nets are great for that. Something else I came across is a rock climbers chalk bag that I use an old toe strap to secure to the basket to store a chain lock. It keeps it tightly together and cuts down the noise. Cool videos. Keep spinning
Favorite winter commuter bike was a 1994 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR with studded tires when I was living in northern Idaho. Now in the Seattle area my winter commuter bike is my fall/spring commuter bike; a Salsa Marrakesh with 42mm Sawtooths, front rack, full fenders, dino, etc. Commuting in the summer is blissfully spent on the 650b converted Bianchi Diss with front basket; take me back!!! Cheers Russ ✌️
Merry Christmas! I really like this bike! I live in a city in Italy, so the bigger need for my winter bike would be good fenders that can protect you when you run in puddles. Good 35mm tires would do the job in case of snow (it would be subtle).
I ride a 26x4 Rocky Mountain fat bike for winter and it's great but you are right, it is a slog as a city commuter in winter. If it snows by more than a cm it begins to feel like you are riding uphill the entire way. Having a thinner tire like something that is 2" to maybe 3" is great. They can cut through fresh snow quite well and still have lots of grip. And yes, studded tires are great and essential for winter in my opinion.
I just got some 650b x 38 45NRTH Gravdel studded winter tires for riding around Halifax, Nova Scotia. Mine is the 33 tpi, 240 steel carbide stud model. They are a great tire for winter in the city. Also, frozen, crushed gravel paths are a blast. No worries as you go over little patches of ice and snow. Don't do anything stupid, though.
Still riding/commuting with snow. When icy ride a '72 Torpado Gran Turismo w/ Soumi Hakkapallitta's, 700 x 40. If soft snow '72 Italvega Super Special w/ 650b x 47 WTB Sendero's. Thank you for another pleasant/informative vid!
I run a set of studded gravel tires for ice. I love that I can do U turn on glare ice & that I can stay upright on rutted refrozn ice. For snow or snow pack they are overkill, but still usable & can even b ridden on dry pavement.
Really appreciated this video! I have been winter commuting in Missoula for quite some time now. When I was younger and indestructible I would just accept a spill or two every winter. Eventually purchased studded tires, and what a difference! Being a cheapskate with my old Ultra cycle conversion, I held on to my snow tires for too long and discovered their age limits last winter. Maybe 7 to 10 years old at that point? Well, I was going too fast around a corner on the Milwaukee/Bitterroot trail intersection and shattered my wrist! Oops. All better now and I have a fresh set of Marathon winters for this season which feel pretty luxurious.
I agree on the fat bikes in snow. It's easier for me to cut through with narrower tires. I had 4.8s that didn't come close to floating on snow. It would just stop so fast I'd nearly wipe out. I like 2 - 2.8 width max.
I have run a 28c gravel king in heavy snow. It's honestly way better than a wide, treaded tire. I will however jump up to a 34 with some side tread, but I really don't recommend any wider if you real will heavy snow For relevance, I've ridden a bike in a city with annual snowfall of up to 200in, and overnight it's not uncommon to see a foot that's turned into a slushy, rutted mess come morning
Hailing from St. Paul, MN and points North my only change to my commuter is a spring time replacement of my drivetrain ;) I don't do well with winter time maintenance. That said, I've been rocking a Surly Ogre with a tubules setup using the Schwalbe Marathon Almotion 29 x5 50mm tire. Full fenders with Velo Orange mud flaps for extra protection. I'm honestly shocked at how well the bike handles snow; from packed to mashed potatoes to fresh powder. I'll roll with the PSI around 30-35 during winter.
I run 28 mm studded Schwalable’s and like them. I don’t float on snow well, but they cut down to the pavement well. I have the ones with half the studs and they work well enough, and they’re a little more secure if you get dry pavement on the way home.
Another great informative video, I really enjoy your content. It’s crazy to think that two of my favourite TH-camrs are based out of Missoula MT, yourself and Hank Green. Keep up the great videos.
Love your bike build! Similar to mine (A Surly Cross Check with a flat bar, studded tires, rear rack). I was wondering how you felt about increased wear and rust in winter riding? I've seen some good videos on aluminum frames with belt drives that sound really appetizing, and I'd love to know if you would ever switch to something like that, from Priority or Brilliant.
I’m trying out a Marin Fairfax belt driven internal geared hub bike (new version is Presidio). Should be faster than my single speed 2003 Kona Unit with studded 2.0 tires…
I use 700x35 schwalbe marathon winter. Pump them up for the cleared routes then drop the pressure for icy/snowy routes. But really need to keep them on a spare set of wheels as weather is so changeable here in Scotland
Hey, thanks for the great vids! Really appreciate your approach to cycling for pleasure rather than racing. Enjoy my ride to work everyday even now in winter. Was wondering when will be any update on Marin Larkspur? Considering between this one and DSX. Thanks, and Kind Regards!
I bought Suomi/Nokian A10 650b 54-584 studdeds from Peter White Cycles, I thought of the 45NRTH but at the time of purchase (Dec 2019), they didn’t have a 650b 2.1 inch size that was suitable for urban riding. The A10s are less knobby and better for ploughed roads with 62 studs per tire.
Starting back up riding in winter. I have about the same size tire but no studs. I’m going to very the pressure of the tire since I don’t have studs. Riding a trek 7000 mountain bike.
Good to see that you are still enjoying the Velo Orange Polyvalent. After all the bikes you have access too, it really says something that you seem to keep going back to that as your daily ride. Given your take on winter commuting/riding, I guess a review of the Bear Claw Towmak is not in your near future? Lots of mounts, metal fork, and tire clearance. If I was independently wealthy, I would buy it just as an experiment.
Commuter for yeats and a few times around the world in distance in all wheather. These studded stubborn germans, although about 25% slower due to the combination of winterconditions kept me in the saddle and a few times even saved my life.
a friend is loaning me a set of Schwalbe Marathon (26in x 2in) studded tires. Mostly I'm using them for dirt road riding and the pavement to get there. First two rides have been great. When the snow packed by cars gets deep and the tires can't get to frozen dirt, things get a bit squirmy, like riding deep sand. No big shakes. Any kind of down hill I'm on the brakes the whole time in case I hit a squirmy bit. Also have ridden some very tame trails / bike paths. Been find on those also. It's load speed stuff, but better than riding rollers in the basement. Probably next year I'll go for a more aggressive tire like the reviewed tire in the vid. cheers.
Speaking as a cyclist and winter commuter in Minneapolis, there is NO WAY I'd sacrifice a Velo Orange frame to the salt gods. Craigslist junker for me!
Cool set up. I bought some Hunt 650 b wheels based on your review. I ride an OPEN WIDE so can take a very fat tire. Looking at the same tire you have, but the price! WOW!
I went a little wild on studded tires this year, so I have a touring bike set up with 700x35 Marathon Winters, an old 26er MTB set up with 2.1in Ice Spikers, and a set of 2.2 Kenda Klondikes for my 29er drop-bar MTB that I haven't put on yet... if we ever get snow that sticks where I live, I'm planning to do some comparison of those three setups for funsies. I already know the Marathon Winters are solid on the mess of melt/thaw ice that builds up on the paved roads locally and that the others have the edge on dirt/singletrack, but what I'm really curious about is which will be best when there's a lot of fresh snow that has yet to be cleared well from the local roads and bike lanes!
A: yes. The 45North Xerxes 700c studded tire changed my life. Traction on ice when turning or slipping, but no extra resistance when rolling straight. I ride 1 in front with a schwalbe Cx non studded in rear. The 45North tires are expensive, yes. About the price of a tank of gas, but lasts a good 3 winters in my experience.
Lovely bike! That said, having done three years in a north-american city where they put a ton of salt that mixes with slush I stick to an old aluminum frame bike. No matter how well I try to keep the bike clean, the salt eats away at it. I've only found hosing the entire bike indoors with water to help reduce some of the damage, but that's too much work. And no joke, I've replaced the BB, the rear derailleur, the rear wheel(plus multiple spokes on the old one before it went bonkers) and my mineral oil brake calipers in three years of riding. As for studs. I don't use them, but I do fall about 4 times a season. So I'll consider putting one in the front. And again, for city use, I prefer narrower tires. I'm sporting 28C, I find that it slices into the snow better to sustain good speed.
I live in Uptown Minneapolis. I ride a Litespeed Gravel bike with 700c x 40cm Schwalbde studded tires. For years I rode a Surly Pacer with 700c x 30cm 45NRTH Xerses studded tires. I had to remove the rear caliper because the studs would rub.
Another great bike! I ran 35c cross tires commuting in Wisconsin for a season, and took a spill on rough ice (refrozen slush). Switched to studded 42c Hakkas for a season, which went well, but they tracked like hot garbage when transitioning across snow tracks packed down by car tires. 3rd season, I went fat, and I never looked back. Bare or snow covered smooth ice is still an issue without studs, but everywhere else, fat just doesn't care what's there. Fat's not for everybody, but it's definitely right for me. 🍻
I usually have one bike set up with studded tires and one with aggressive off-road tires. Early in the winter or towards then end when there's a lot of melting a refreezing there'll be slick ice all over, and the studs help, but once it's cold enough that the snow stays snowy I've found mountain bike tires work better for me. I only started using studs a few years ago, in spite of being a year-round rider forever, and learned the hard way my first winter doing so, that - especially if you're a big and tall rider with a high center of gravity -studs do not magically transform icy streets and you can still slide out and fall pretty easily, especially when cornering, if you aren't careful. But they help.
I just fixed up my old Trekkingbike for winter riding. Living in germany I have much milder conditions, tho - So far we only got around ~0°C during the day so I picked the Schwalbe 365GT in 50mm. I also took the chance to converted it from 3x10 to 2x10 which feels much better - went from 26/36/48 to 26/38. I'm still not sure why I'd need a 48 tooth chainring on a 16.5kg bike - maybe I'm just to weak sauce but I don't tend to ride that thing at 50kp/h a lot!
I used studded snow tires a couple of winters ago, 700c. They worked great. Slow roller though; on roads that are cleared off, I could *definitely* feel the rolling resistance compared to my usual touring tire. Really good on ice, and most snow. I did notice a kind of snow pack that I call "pie dough." It packed but broke into pieces easily, so it felt like the front wheel would slip out from under me at any moment, especially on turns. I've neglected riding for months now. I'm in creative mode now, but maybe I should ride to get more blood flow into my noggin.
I have a Breezer Beltway. Aluminum frame, comes with fenders, front and rear lights powered by a front hub generator, hydraulic disk brakes, an 8 speed Alfine, and is belt-driven. Completely maintenance free during winter. Salt on the roads, not a problem. All I do is put studded tires on it. 700x35. Yes, narrower is better because it digs into packed snow and ice. I don't think they are always necessary but they are reassuring especially when the road is bad and you are riding alongside cars.
One person told me he was commuting between towns in winter on tarmac roads and due to frozen snow, ice lumps and all sorts of danger the closer you get to hard shoulder=snow storage for ploughs, he absolutely needed studded tires. Apart from that type of use, maybe frozen under snow trails and fun on the iced lake, I'd say studded are not needed. I had some fun on frozen ice road this wnter without studs and didn't even pick my teeths once.
Great video with lots of interesting details. You could not possibly run full fenders on this bike. I guess the traction is the trade off for that. I run much thinner, self studded tires on my winter bike and they clear my full fenders. However, in brown sugar I'm screwed. On ice it works okay, but knobby would likely be better. I really like your bike. Especially the handle bars with old school friction shifters and front rack. Happy trails and keep up the good work!
I run a winter schwalbe marathon 700cx30 on the front of a track bike and a schwalbe cx pro 700cx30 on the rear. It works alright on most snow types. I haven’t fallen but there have definitely been some close calls. I’m looking to switch over to an old 26” mtb into a winter commuter and I want to try the 45nrth gravdal.
Same stup here in Montreal on old Diamondback MTB. Never fell down in 7 winters. Also, for urban commuting, full fenders are a must IMHO, things can get quite sloppy.
I rode in the snow this holiday season with 26" X 4" studded tires. ( 45 NRTH Dillinger 4) I found that while having excellent grip on compacted snow and ice these tires were too wide and floated on top of slushy old snow making my bike laterally unstable.
I love studded tires. Its seems like here in Utah its snowy then dry as a bone next week. So off and on.... I just go regular tires slow way down. That being said I have crashed badly enough to be bedridden a few days
I recently got a pair of used studded tires but amn planning to put them on a different wheelset so I can swap them in and out based on the road conditions.
Just ordered some Gravdals (probably the last set in the country) to put on an extra wheelset for snowy days. At the rate this winter is going, though, I'll never use them.
This is very close to my winter commuter setup. I'm running a Surly Troll frame with Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro studded tires. I've been running these tires for about 5 years now and they are definitely better for commuting than a fat bike. The only time I break out my fat bike to get to work is if we just got a bunch of snow dumped on us.
Are the spikers not good when there's a lot of snow or is it more than the fat bike is designed for that kind of thing? I have some spikers and they feel like major overkill on pavement but I sure do feel confident I won't go down on a slippery patch.
I just tried my 650b wtb horizons in the snow, as you expect basically useless if the snow was even the slightest but loose. Packed or slush I was able to ride without too much slippingi but not something I would want to do on a regular basis so I can see the appeal for dedicated winter tires
I am working with a studded schwalbe rear tire in bozeman with an aggressive front tire; I have been on solid ice more slippery than an ice rink and it did really great! I am am using an old Gary Fisher bike that needs new wheel set cog etc.....I am wondering where do you draw the line and start fresh with a new bike. I am looking at a surly ogre or a jones bike....but I do love this gary fisher frame...
As someone who had a classic Gary Fisher from the late 90’s stolen, I say hang on to that thing. Obviously there weren’t huge differences between hardtail mountain bikes in that era especially compared to what’s made now, but Imo those Fishers were special. Somehow more flickable and stable than the other makers. I think they are the pinnacle of 26” MTBs.
Although I live in Texas, I'm glad their are options available like this to ride all year in case I do move north. I'd probably go with either a fat bike or trike just to be extra cautious. I've fallen too many times to know not to take chances :)
Hi Russ, great overview, what kind of handlebar grips are those and where can i get them? Hope all is well with Laura . Greetings From Belgium, luv your channel . Dominique
Hi there! Two items 1) Whats that piece of string and cable tie for on the rear stay?. 2) I noticed a "Supple Sticker" on one of the girls bike from "RaD cycling" . Have a Happy New Year both of you, thinking about Laura. xx
Here in St. Paul, MN, I find studded tires to be essential after the streets become icy, and I agree with Russ about fat tires vs. narrower tires on ice. My big hang up is when the streets become rutted and the ruts get covered by snow. I have had ruts grab the front tire and send me crashing to the ground. But I don’t think any tire is going to prevent that
I'm also in St. Paul - I haven't had too much issues with ruts (probably my commute) but certainly do with the leavings of snow plows are often too much for my cheap winter hybrid to get over. But that's usually a quick dismount to get the bike past. Not enough to warrant a fat bike, at least for me.
I'm in Minneapolis and have found that having tire pressure dialed in makes a huge difference on these kinds of surfaces. Also, my studs are all on the sides of the tire, which I imagine makes a difference as well.
@@politan83 This usually happens when it is warm and slushy, which is when the ruts get created, followed by drop in temperature, along with a snowfall, which covers the ruts and makes them hard to see. I am only running 700x38 with studs (ancient Hakkapeliitta tires) so they aren't much wider than standard road tires. But they have worked for many years under most conditions.
Live just north of Minneapolis, and I run studded fat all winter. I've tried a hyrbid with studs before, and even though it's overkill I just feel more in control on the fat. All personal preference of course. I know what you're saying about ruts though. Even on the fat, unless I can get a good angle, and have perfectly dialed pressure, I can totally get stuck in tire ruts and need to bail. It sucks. At least a few of my regular bike paths are being maintained pretty well this winter (better than the roads).
Another St. Paul person here! (we should have our own channel, at this rate) I used to commute to Mpls on a hybrid with studded tires and it worked well except for ruts, as pretty much everyone has already stated. I switched to studs on my fat bike last winter and it was just in time, with the slush storm in Dec '19, which caused deep icy ruts for months afterwards. The fat tires are definitely more work but can roll over just about anything, meaning less darting into the car lane to avoid crusty chunks of snow.
Studs are illegal in Minnesota. I've gove to chains. Wired on individually, as they wear out over 400-500 miles, and can be replaced. I wire on sash chain., for all the reasons Russ mentioned (it lays flat against the tire, so the clearance is less compromised.
I've been riding continental top contact winter tires for the past 3 years and found them good on fresh powder to 4 inches deep and on hardpack snow and ice. I like the fact I can fit them under fenders as I live in the PNW and winter rain is my main riding condition. They are terrible on that hard hummocky crud snow on heavily traveled paths in freeze thaw conditions and slush. How do those 45 north tires work in those situations?
A front fender can be essential for bicycling in winter conditions. Nothing improves speed and comfort more than not getting hit in the face with slush. I feel a little bit more strongly about the need for fenders than a preference of either fat tires or skinny studded tires. I split my winter commuting equally between a 1.9" studded tire and 4.5" fatbike tires. I'd keep the skinnier tires if I had to pick only one, but only because falling on ice usually hurts more than falling on deep snow.
I just put Wrathchild 29x2.6’s on my Surly ECR (large). I sound like a tank rolling down the asphalt. I swear mothers snatch their children off the streets when they hear me coming
I once was going down tarmac road in the mountains at 76kph on a MTB and people were doing just that, but I'm responsible enough to brake before I got to passing them. Oh yeah, they've heared that diving bomber for sure :-)
I don’t like riding with spiked tires, but they’ve saved me from black ice more than once. So yes, consider studs a necessity. Been running Schwalbe Marathon Winter H396.
I run the same in a 42-622 (700x42c) on my main bike and have 2x 26"x2.0" sets for 2 other bikes, one of which is a MTB tandem for the wife and I. Good commuter tires and great in the ice and snow.
Same. Great commuter winter tire
My one objection to the Schwalbe studded tires I’ve ridden is that they have studs all over the tire including on the normal rolling path, so when you hit a patch of pavement they go tick-a-tack-a-tick-a-tack-a. Maybe good for rear traction uphill or something? But honestly no. For ice you need studs on the corner of the tire when you’re turning or about to eat shit. It’s like magic.
@@tomalcolm Yeah, that's a big downside. I run Schwalbe Winters, NOT Marathon Winters, and they only have the center pair of studs. On one hand the smaller tread block size is nicer on pavement that something like a Nokian tire, but on the other hand you're always riding on the studs.
@@tomalcolm I think the fact that it sounds like frying bacon on dry pavement is part of their charm. ;-) They roll really well in my experience. Studded winter car tires make the same noises. It's not a deal breaker for me, but I could see it being a bother to some people. I'd rather have better traction instead of slipping first, almost falling, and then catching the studs...
700x35 shwalbe studded tires on my fixed gear with a front brake is what I run for the winter here in montreal, Pretty fast and it never fails even with a crunchy dorito chain. Oh and a removable fender because full fenders get so much stuff stuck in em that they're impossible tu run, Great vids man keep em comin!
What gears do you use in Montreal through the winter?
Favourite winter commuter bikes would be a decent quality 90’s steel framed mountain bike with 26” wheels. Decent tire clearance for grip and stability (usually up to 2.3), lots of cheap used options for bikes and tires, mounts for common racks. Plus the frame geometry is more similar to a modern urban bike. And if you’re real lucky, you’ll get a frame with a sweet “90’s” paint job! Thanks for the great winter cycling content!
Narrow tires are better in snow and slush, IF there's tarmac below. Navigation of Ruts made in 6in of overnight snow fall is impossible with wide tires
I run 45 Nrth 2.1 inch Gravdals on my old Trek MTB for my winter bike and also use a clip on fender for the rear. It gets the job done and as you say - fat bikes are a little sluggish on city streets. When we do hit the trails on the occasion we get deep snow I just follow the guys on the fat bikes!
I appreciate that you let us know when hardwares is provided. The openness is key for me.
I've always run studs on snow and ice. I've seen one too many people go down hard in those areas that sneak up on you where the snow has blown away and only ice is left. There are other things you wouldn't think of like slippery wooden bridges - I saw a guy cross a wood bridge on his back at speed in a race once since the bike went out from under him. For those that have been watching long enough I'm sure we all remember your accident a while back on ice, Russ. That looked so painful! Studded tires are much cheaper than medical bills.
One issue I have with my studded fat bike tires however is that I don't have much traction on pavement. I run the dillinger's by 45nrth. Not sure if others have had the same problem. I just stick to riding those off-road, which I suppose is what they're designed for anyway.
I've been running gravel king 700c x28 on a roadie through 2 winters in one of the snowiest cities in America. The key is to know your route.
I bought a set of studded tires in fall 2018.
Since then there has been neither snow nor ice here. It has never happened before.
That's why it was a very good buy. 🤪
Yep I made the same $200 investment at the same time. Haven't had to use them. A cycle commuter coworker owes me a couple lunches.
It's going to snow a lot this year boys get ready
Hi Russ, great information and explanation of the plus sized tires vs the fat tire options for the type of conditions and riding one might have in their locale. Here in Michigan we are faced with conditions just like you have. I like your setup as well. Thank you!
I am currently running Ice spiker pro 27.5 x 2.6 on a Stance E2 . Last year I ran my Outpost GT with marathon winter plus 26x2 tires and yes on the street the marathon dug down to the pavement well.
If you live in a winter environment that has abundant sunshine (Colorado), higher temps, freeze/thaw, and traffic-buffed urban icy intersections, studs are an absolute necessity. I've used either CX or Gravel bikes with a 700x42-45 tire for the last fifteen years for a commute that is (mostly plowed) bike paths and slick city streets and have only crashed twice (harmlessly) in that time. I had a fat bike for two years, and for my ride it was overkill and heavy, and I sold it. I also find that lower gear ratios really help in fresh or unpacked snow, so if you've been saving an old triple crank, you might find a use for it. :) I also prefer swept bars and upright posture for the winter... and a pair of old insulated coveralls worn over everything else that you don't care how wet/dirty they get!
@Dale Rides MTB They're Schwalbe ... I'm not sure of the specific model, but they only have two rows of studs, not four, which makes them a bit lighter...
The universe spoke through you today! I'm not kidding. I was sitting here having coffee this morning and thinking about the recent ice and rain cycles we are experiencing this winter in Maine, where I live. I was trying to decide if I needed my Fat Bike today. Then I remembered my new spikes out in my shop. Without a complete plan on what to do, I just turned on Utube and there was your latest update about winter commuting. No kidding.
I have began putting the new treads onto my 1990 Specialized Stump Jumper. My old favorite.
Thank you for the inspiration Man!
I use my Soma Fog Cutter year round. Once winter arrives in Vancouver I add a studded Schwalbe Marathon in 700x28 to replace the standard 700x42 semi-slick that is on the front. The rear tire continues on with whatever 42mm tire I have there. As for bars, I love my Jones H-bars. One day when I am feeling rich I will purchase the carbon version for winter riding. My hands notice the cold being conducted through the grips. That is with pogies.
And full fenders. All year. With flaps.
I am in NE Wyoming and have a 84 Trek rigid MTB for a dedicated winter bike for commuting and life support. 26 x 2 45 North Gravdals. The bike is down for two weeks for a drive train conversion to Shimano Nexus 8 speed internal hub, Hollowtech ll bottom bracket and Nexus crank. New brakes. I was running Kenda Klondike’s 26 x 1.95 but needed studs on center for all the ice on downtown streets slurping off the buildings and alleys. Yes to more winter bike commuting content. Love seeing your build.
Well said, my preference is just low pressure instead of studded tires. Studden tires is very subjective and varies on your mix of conditions. I've commuted with studden tires and with just 26" x 2.5" tires. I found that studden tires for myself and my commute often slowed me down more than finding them useful. Often more of my commute ended up on pavement. There are days that full snow/ice coverage the key is just going slow regardless of tires. I personally determined I was just better off without studs and just a wider tire. Winter commuting you aren't going to be fast is what I've learned. Speed works against you in winter.
This is great stuff Russ! I love content like this. The rack and basket combo is awesome and that handlebar setup is really classy. Really like that vintage commuter vibe. Thanks
Great looking bike. I'm watching this a second time. The snow looks so Nnnnniiiicccccceeeee!!! I'm watching from Phoenix Az, 9-3-2022 and it was 106F today. 🚵♂️❄️❄️☃️
Your winter beater is fancier than my nice bike.
My tire experience has matched yours: narrower studded tires do great on urban, slick roads. Thanks for the great explanation on why.
Whatever lense/camera combo you’re using recently is just amazing. The super narrow depth of field paired with the beautiful lighting looks superb.
>My tire experience has matched yours: narrower studded tires do great on urban, slick roads.
It really, really, really depends on where you live. People in Colorado are probably best served by really skinny tires, like a 23c, in the snow but people in Boston need something much wider. You aren't going to "cut through the snow down to pavement" in snow that deep!
There's no one single best winter tire. Geography matters oh so much when making a recommendation. Even in my area of Minnesota the tire I'd recommend where I live in the suburbs is different than what I'd recommend for somebody up in Minneapolis/St. Paul. I'd literally recommend a knobbier tire with more studs for somebody in MSP than I personally use because we **don't** have bike trails where I live so I ride on the pavement in the car tire track rather than a icy, rutted bike trail.
I have never run studs on a car, so I don't find it needed on a bike. Granted it takes 100% focus on what the bike is telling you about the surface.
I have tire chains that work beautifully on packed-snow roads. I got them from Velotique many years ago but they could easily be diy with stainless cable, cable clips, and short lengths of link chain. (Think of the chains that are sometimes found on snowblowers.)
Good to see you Russ. Always enjoy your presentations. Winter adjustment reminders. I was just thinking about 'winter tires'. Cheers and stay sane.
I use a medium skinny studded tire in the front and a regular tire with grippy compound on the back. Adjust the front tire pressure as needed. Studded tires can slip on pavement, so care must be taken. I haven't found that tread makes too much difference, but there are certain tires, like the old german Conti's, that grip better in very cold temperatures. Happy holidays and thanks for all the good videos!
[Studded tires can slip on pavement, so care must be taken.]
Indeed! And the traction gives out with absolutely no warning. I have posted further comment on detail on that above.
Like studs on snowboots, and on car tires, studs can be a real help on ice, a danger on clear asphalt, and especially a danger on concrete: It's rarely discussed on bicycle channels, so let's see how they work on cars:
[Not The First Choice For Everyone
Just as standard winter tires aren’t ideal on ice, studded tires aren’t the best all-around performers either. When driving on a clear road you’re actually giving up traction with a studded set, because the tire’s treadblock makes less contact with the pavement - which can also affect wet weather driving or driving on slush as the treadblocks try to channel away water. It’s most noticeable when braking on a slick, cold road surface in the absence of snow or ice, which means city and suburban dwellers are more often handicapped by studs rather than helped.]
:- The truth about studded tires
I went from drops to VO uprights and back to drops again, with more trouble and expense than I was looking for. After years of riding I find that letting my hands wander over drop bars is the only thing that doesn’t give me numbness and CTS. Jones bars don’t help either. As a car-free/year-round rider in Seattle dealing with a lot of rain and only a little snow I’ve found 3 things that really make a difference: fenders, touring tires, and disc brakes. Full fenders are best for limiting mud a debris in the drivetrain. Touring tires like the Schawlbe Dureme get WAY fewer flats than tan-wall suppleness. And disc brakes make for less filth on the rims. Lightweight front rack and wire basket completes the package. For lights I use a headlamp, twin Planet Bike lights up front, red blinky light in back.
Studs are a must in South-central Alaska, as even groomed and paved trails are icy about half the year. I run 700C Nokians on my Surly Cross Check. I have three sets of studded tires for primary bike, a Moots Frosthammer. For ice and firm trails I run 27.5”x3” 45Nrth Wrathchilds, swap to 27.5”x4” 45Nrth Dillinger 4 in firm snow, then to 26”x5” Dillinger 5 for soft conditions. The large, aggressive studs on the Wratchilds are phenomenal on even the hardest ice. Happy trails!
I have the same brake levers on my touring setup, they sure are stylin'
Schwalbe Marathon studs here on an old Shogun MTN bike fromnthe 90s here. Chaged to euro bars but still have the biopace crank. Studs were worth it and the retro reflecting sidewalls are very nice too.
Nice bike and great review. Thanks!
I've been running these 45Nrth Kahva 29" X 2.25" tires for a couple of hundred miles so far this winter in North Idaho. Mixed dry pavement, ice, fresh powder over slop, sheet ice, the whole nine. They're awesome, as long as you don't expect them to float on fresh powder like a fat or plus tire. They DO dig down and get grip really well, and I'm learning to trust them more every ride. These are my third set of winter "ride whatever winter throws at me" tires, after Kenda Klondikes in regular and wide 26" variants. Those were great too. I'm running them on my one bike year round commuter and trail bike, a Specialized Enduro, and they're set up tubeless with Orange Seal Extreme in 'em. Next I'm going to drop the pressure from 28/32 psi, down to the 25/28 psi range and see if the increased traction adds much rolling resistance. As they are, they roll really well, and they've been very impressive. Cheers.
I'm into small wheeled shopper bikes, they're excellent in snow. I was cycling at a fair speed along a very snowy road when an impatient Porsche Cayenne 4x4 got impatient and went for an overtake, only to pirouette in the middle of the road and end up backwards in the ditch
Here in Winnipeg(Canada) I'm running a 700x32C studded tire. I just but them on yesterday. I biked all winter last year for the first time and the studs were great. Loud on bare pavement and they feel different but once the snow comes I won't notice anymore. Other things I had to change for winter riding. Flat pedals instead of clips and I think I['ve added 3 more lights. one front, one back and one more on my helmet. total of 6.
Nice setup. I turned to the swept back bars / upright riding position some years back. Not going back to anything uncomfortable! Front rack of choice has been the topit by rack time. Something to think about, I have been using yeti cooler baskets for my basket. Only 3” high. Can choose between a 10x10’ or 12”x12” basket. The rubber coated wire is the same diameter roughly of cables so it compliments the look nicely. The 3” height makes it a little more low profile and if needed you can strap stuff on top. Those mini cargo nets are great for that. Something else I came across is a rock climbers chalk bag that I use an old toe strap to secure to the basket to store a chain lock. It keeps it tightly together and cuts down the noise.
Cool videos. Keep spinning
Studded tyres are perfect for where you live, I have a pair of Schwalbe tyres in my shed last used in 2018 :-)
Very nice bike and set up. Thanks for the video. Take care and stay safe, Al
Good to see you Russ:)! Merry Christmas to you and Laura!
Favorite winter commuter bike was a 1994 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR with studded tires when I was living in northern Idaho. Now in the Seattle area my winter commuter bike is my fall/spring commuter bike; a Salsa Marrakesh with 42mm Sawtooths, front rack, full fenders, dino, etc. Commuting in the summer is blissfully spent on the 650b converted Bianchi Diss with front basket; take me back!!! Cheers Russ ✌️
Merry Christmas! I really like this bike! I live in a city in Italy, so the bigger need for my winter bike would be good fenders that can protect you when you run in puddles. Good 35mm tires would do the job in case of snow (it would be subtle).
Of course, now is snowing 40mm (at least)
I ride a 26x4 Rocky Mountain fat bike for winter and it's great but you are right, it is a slog as a city commuter in winter. If it snows by more than a cm it begins to feel like you are riding uphill the entire way. Having a thinner tire like something that is 2" to maybe 3" is great. They can cut through fresh snow quite well and still have lots of grip. And yes, studded tires are great and essential for winter in my opinion.
I just got some 650b x 38 45NRTH Gravdel studded winter tires for riding around Halifax, Nova Scotia. Mine is the 33 tpi, 240 steel carbide stud model.
They are a great tire for winter in the city. Also, frozen, crushed gravel paths are a blast.
No worries as you go over little patches of ice and snow. Don't do anything stupid, though.
Such a cool, classy and well equipped bike! Love it! 💚👌
Still riding/commuting with snow. When icy ride a '72 Torpado Gran Turismo w/ Soumi Hakkapallitta's, 700 x 40. If soft snow '72 Italvega Super Special w/ 650b x 47 WTB Sendero's. Thank you for another pleasant/informative vid!
Love the bike and the vid! The cycling community is very, very lucky to have you Russ! Always excellent videos
I run a set of studded gravel tires for ice. I love that I can do U turn on glare ice & that I can stay upright on rutted refrozn ice. For snow or snow pack they are overkill, but still usable & can even b ridden on dry pavement.
Really appreciated this video! I have been winter commuting in Missoula for quite some time now. When I was younger and indestructible I would just accept a spill or two every winter. Eventually purchased studded tires, and what a difference! Being a cheapskate with my old Ultra cycle conversion, I held on to my snow tires for too long and discovered their age limits last winter. Maybe 7 to 10 years old at that point? Well, I was going too fast around a corner on the Milwaukee/Bitterroot trail intersection and shattered my wrist! Oops. All better now and I have a fresh set of Marathon winters for this season which feel pretty luxurious.
I agree on the fat bikes in snow. It's easier for me to cut through with narrower tires. I had 4.8s that didn't come close to floating on snow. It would just stop so fast I'd nearly wipe out. I like 2 - 2.8 width max.
I have run a 28c gravel king in heavy snow. It's honestly way better than a wide, treaded tire. I will however jump up to a 34 with some side tread, but I really don't recommend any wider if you real will heavy snow
For relevance, I've ridden a bike in a city with annual snowfall of up to 200in, and overnight it's not uncommon to see a foot that's turned into a slushy, rutted mess come morning
Hailing from St. Paul, MN and points North my only change to my commuter is a spring time replacement of my drivetrain ;) I don't do well with winter time maintenance. That said, I've been rocking a Surly Ogre with a tubules setup using the Schwalbe Marathon Almotion 29 x5 50mm tire. Full fenders with Velo Orange mud flaps for extra protection. I'm honestly shocked at how well the bike handles snow; from packed to mashed potatoes to fresh powder. I'll roll with the PSI around 30-35 during winter.
Have a pair of 700x40C Schwalbe Marathon Winter tyres. Running them at 25 psi. I find they work great on hard-packed ice.
I run 28 mm studded Schwalable’s and like them. I don’t float on snow well, but they cut down to the pavement well. I have the ones with half the studs and they work well enough, and they’re a little more secure if you get dry pavement on the way home.
Another great informative video, I really enjoy your content. It’s crazy to think that two of my favourite TH-camrs are based out of Missoula MT, yourself and Hank Green. Keep up the great videos.
Love your bike build! Similar to mine (A Surly Cross Check with a flat bar, studded tires, rear rack). I was wondering how you felt about increased wear and rust in winter riding? I've seen some good videos on aluminum frames with belt drives that sound really appetizing, and I'd love to know if you would ever switch to something like that, from Priority or Brilliant.
I’m trying out a Marin Fairfax belt driven internal geared hub bike (new version is Presidio). Should be faster than my single speed 2003 Kona Unit with studded 2.0 tires…
Great video as always - tire and fender options are especially interesting. Wishing you and Laura all the best this holiday season!
I use 700x35 schwalbe marathon winter. Pump them up for the cleared routes then drop the pressure for icy/snowy routes. But really need to keep them on a spare set of wheels as weather is so changeable here in Scotland
Hey, thanks for the great vids! Really appreciate your approach to cycling for pleasure rather than racing. Enjoy my ride to work everyday even now in winter. Was wondering when will be any update on Marin Larkspur? Considering between this one and DSX. Thanks, and Kind Regards!
I bought Suomi/Nokian A10 650b 54-584 studdeds from Peter White Cycles, I thought of the 45NRTH but at the time of purchase (Dec 2019), they didn’t have a 650b 2.1 inch size that was suitable for urban riding. The A10s are less knobby and better for ploughed roads with 62 studs per tire.
Starting back up riding in winter. I have about the same size tire but no studs. I’m going to very the pressure of the tire since I don’t have studs. Riding a trek 7000 mountain bike.
Good to see that you are still enjoying the Velo Orange Polyvalent. After all the bikes you have access too, it really says something that you seem to keep going back to that as your daily ride. Given your take on winter commuting/riding, I guess a review of the Bear Claw Towmak is not in your near future? Lots of mounts, metal fork, and tire clearance. If I was independently wealthy, I would buy it just as an experiment.
Commuter for yeats and a few times around the world in distance in all wheather. These studded stubborn germans, although about 25% slower due to the combination of winterconditions kept me in the saddle and a few times even saved my life.
a friend is loaning me a set of Schwalbe Marathon (26in x 2in) studded tires. Mostly I'm using them for dirt road riding and the pavement to get there. First two rides have been great. When the snow packed by cars gets deep and the tires can't get to frozen dirt, things get a bit squirmy, like riding deep sand. No big shakes. Any kind of down hill I'm on the brakes the whole time in case I hit a squirmy bit. Also have ridden some very tame trails / bike paths. Been find on those also.
It's load speed stuff, but better than riding rollers in the basement. Probably next year I'll go for a more aggressive tire like the reviewed tire in the vid. cheers.
Awesome winter setup.
Speaking as a cyclist and winter commuter in Minneapolis, there is NO WAY I'd sacrifice a Velo Orange frame to the salt gods. Craigslist junker for me!
Cool set up. I bought some Hunt 650 b wheels based on your review. I ride an OPEN WIDE so can take a very fat tire. Looking at the same tire you have, but the price! WOW!
I went a little wild on studded tires this year, so I have a touring bike set up with 700x35 Marathon Winters, an old 26er MTB set up with 2.1in Ice Spikers, and a set of 2.2 Kenda Klondikes for my 29er drop-bar MTB that I haven't put on yet... if we ever get snow that sticks where I live, I'm planning to do some comparison of those three setups for funsies. I already know the Marathon Winters are solid on the mess of melt/thaw ice that builds up on the paved roads locally and that the others have the edge on dirt/singletrack, but what I'm really curious about is which will be best when there's a lot of fresh snow that has yet to be cleared well from the local roads and bike lanes!
A: yes. The 45North Xerxes 700c studded tire changed my life. Traction on ice when turning or slipping, but no extra resistance when rolling straight. I ride 1 in front with a schwalbe Cx non studded in rear. The 45North tires are expensive, yes. About the price of a tank of gas, but lasts a good 3 winters in my experience.
Lovely bike! That said, having done three years in a north-american city where they put a ton of salt that mixes with slush I stick to an old aluminum frame bike. No matter how well I try to keep the bike clean, the salt eats away at it. I've only found hosing the entire bike indoors with water to help reduce some of the damage, but that's too much work. And no joke, I've replaced the BB, the rear derailleur, the rear wheel(plus multiple spokes on the old one before it went bonkers) and my mineral oil brake calipers in three years of riding.
As for studs. I don't use them, but I do fall about 4 times a season. So I'll consider putting one in the front. And again, for city use, I prefer narrower tires. I'm sporting 28C, I find that it slices into the snow better to sustain good speed.
Now I need to search this channel for those shifter mounts!
I live in Uptown Minneapolis. I ride a Litespeed Gravel bike with 700c x 40cm Schwalbde studded tires. For years I rode a Surly Pacer with 700c x 30cm 45NRTH Xerses studded tires. I had to remove the rear caliper because the studs would rub.
Another great bike!
I ran 35c cross tires commuting in Wisconsin for a season, and took a spill on rough ice (refrozen slush). Switched to studded 42c Hakkas for a season, which went well, but they tracked like hot garbage when transitioning across snow tracks packed down by car tires. 3rd season, I went fat, and I never looked back. Bare or snow covered smooth ice is still an issue without studs, but everywhere else, fat just doesn't care what's there. Fat's not for everybody, but it's definitely right for me. 🍻
I usually have one bike set up with studded tires and one with aggressive off-road tires. Early in the winter or towards then end when there's a lot of melting a refreezing there'll be slick ice all over, and the studs help, but once it's cold enough that the snow stays snowy I've found mountain bike tires work better for me.
I only started using studs a few years ago, in spite of being a year-round rider forever, and learned the hard way my first winter doing so, that - especially if you're a big and tall rider with a high center of gravity -studs do not magically transform icy streets and you can still slide out and fall pretty easily, especially when cornering, if you aren't careful. But they help.
I need to watch again - i was so distracted by the misc string, zip tie and allen key hanging off the back. 👀
I just fixed up my old Trekkingbike for winter riding. Living in germany I have much milder conditions, tho - So far we only got around ~0°C during the day so I picked the Schwalbe 365GT in 50mm. I also took the chance to converted it from 3x10 to 2x10 which feels much better - went from 26/36/48 to 26/38. I'm still not sure why I'd need a 48 tooth chainring on a 16.5kg bike - maybe I'm just to weak sauce but I don't tend to ride that thing at 50kp/h a lot!
I used studded snow tires a couple of winters ago, 700c. They worked great. Slow roller though; on roads that are cleared off, I could *definitely* feel the rolling resistance compared to my usual touring tire. Really good on ice, and most snow. I did notice a kind of snow pack that I call "pie dough." It packed but broke into pieces easily, so it felt like the front wheel would slip out from under me at any moment, especially on turns.
I've neglected riding for months now. I'm in creative mode now, but maybe I should ride to get more blood flow into my noggin.
Liking the set up nice bike love your shows 👍
I have a Breezer Beltway. Aluminum frame, comes with fenders, front and rear lights powered by a front hub generator, hydraulic disk brakes, an 8 speed Alfine, and is belt-driven. Completely maintenance free during winter. Salt on the roads, not a problem. All I do is put studded tires on it. 700x35. Yes, narrower is better because it digs into packed snow and ice. I don't think they are always necessary but they are reassuring especially when the road is bad and you are riding alongside cars.
Nice video Russ merry Christmas to you and Laura hope she’s doing better you too have a great holiday season .
One person told me he was commuting between towns in winter on tarmac roads and due to frozen snow, ice lumps and all sorts of danger the closer you get to hard shoulder=snow storage for ploughs, he absolutely needed studded tires. Apart from that type of use, maybe frozen under snow trails and fun on the iced lake, I'd say studded are not needed. I had some fun on frozen ice road this wnter without studs and didn't even pick my teeths once.
Great video with lots of interesting details. You could not possibly run full fenders on this bike. I guess the traction is the trade off for that. I run much thinner, self studded tires on my winter bike and they clear my full fenders. However, in brown sugar I'm screwed. On ice it works okay, but knobby would likely be better. I really like your bike. Especially the handle bars with old school friction shifters and front rack. Happy trails and keep up the good work!
I run a winter schwalbe marathon 700cx30 on the front of a track bike and a schwalbe cx pro 700cx30 on the rear. It works alright on most snow types. I haven’t fallen but there have definitely been some close calls. I’m looking to switch over to an old 26” mtb into a winter commuter and I want to try the 45nrth gravdal.
Same stup here in Montreal on old Diamondback MTB. Never fell down in 7 winters. Also, for urban commuting, full fenders are a must IMHO, things can get quite sloppy.
I rode in the snow this holiday season with 26" X 4" studded tires. ( 45 NRTH Dillinger 4) I found that while having excellent grip on compacted snow and ice these tires were too wide and floated on top of slushy old snow making my bike laterally unstable.
I love studded tires. Its seems like here in Utah its snowy then dry as a bone next week. So off and on.... I just go regular tires slow way down. That being said I have crashed badly enough to be bedridden a few days
I want to convert my handlebars on my Bianchi Siena. Not a bike expert but I definitely appreciate the swoop back handlebars
I recently got a pair of used studded tires but amn planning to put them on a different wheelset so I can swap them in and out based on the road conditions.
Just ordered some Gravdals (probably the last set in the country) to put on an extra wheelset for snowy days. At the rate this winter is going, though, I'll never use them.
I feel ya. I've done more miles this Minnesota December than I did the last few months combined.
This is very close to my winter commuter setup. I'm running a Surly Troll frame with Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro studded tires. I've been running these tires for about 5 years now and they are definitely better for commuting than a fat bike. The only time I break out my fat bike to get to work is if we just got a bunch of snow dumped on us.
Are the spikers not good when there's a lot of snow or is it more than the fat bike is designed for that kind of thing? I have some spikers and they feel like major overkill on pavement but I sure do feel confident I won't go down on a slippery patch.
Thanks Russ! Any suggestions for tire pressure and snow tires?
I just tried my 650b wtb horizons in the snow, as you expect basically useless if the snow was even the slightest but loose. Packed or slush I was able to ride without too much slippingi but not something I would want to do on a regular basis so I can see the appeal for dedicated winter tires
I am working with a studded schwalbe rear tire in bozeman with an aggressive front tire; I have been on solid ice more slippery than an ice rink and it did really great! I am am using an old Gary Fisher bike that needs new wheel set cog etc.....I am wondering where do you draw the line and start fresh with a new bike. I am looking at a surly ogre or a jones bike....but I do love this gary fisher frame...
As someone who had a classic Gary Fisher from the late 90’s stolen, I say hang on to that thing. Obviously there weren’t huge differences between hardtail mountain bikes in that era especially compared to what’s made now, but Imo those Fishers were special. Somehow more flickable and stable than the other makers. I think they are the pinnacle of 26” MTBs.
Put your basket on the back via pannier mount! It allows for a heavier payload!!
Hi Russ. Thanks for the winter motivation. Love your hat! Where’d you get it?
Rivendell!
Although I live in Texas, I'm glad their are options available like this to ride all year in case I do move north. I'd probably go with either a fat bike or trike just to be extra cautious. I've fallen too many times to know not to take chances :)
I made a rear fender using a two liter bottle and a rear reflector bracket
Hi Russ, great overview, what kind of handlebar grips are those and where can i get them? Hope all is well with Laura . Greetings From Belgium, luv your channel . Dominique
they're Rustines and I think Velo Orange sells them
Hi there! Two items 1) Whats that piece of string and cable tie for on the rear stay?. 2) I noticed a "Supple Sticker" on one of the girls bike from "RaD cycling" . Have a Happy New Year both of you, thinking about Laura. xx
Here in St. Paul, MN, I find studded tires to be essential after the streets become icy, and I agree with Russ about fat tires vs. narrower tires on ice. My big hang up is when the streets become rutted and the ruts get covered by snow. I have had ruts grab the front tire and send me crashing to the ground. But I don’t think any tire is going to prevent that
I'm also in St. Paul - I haven't had too much issues with ruts (probably my commute) but certainly do with the leavings of snow plows are often too much for my cheap winter hybrid to get over. But that's usually a quick dismount to get the bike past. Not enough to warrant a fat bike, at least for me.
I'm in Minneapolis and have found that having tire pressure dialed in makes a huge difference on these kinds of surfaces. Also, my studs are all on the sides of the tire, which I imagine makes a difference as well.
@@politan83 This usually happens when it is warm and slushy, which is when the ruts get created, followed by drop in temperature, along with a snowfall, which covers the ruts and makes them hard to see. I am only running 700x38 with studs (ancient Hakkapeliitta tires) so they aren't much wider than standard road tires. But they have worked for many years under most conditions.
Live just north of Minneapolis, and I run studded fat all winter. I've tried a hyrbid with studs before, and even though it's overkill I just feel more in control on the fat. All personal preference of course.
I know what you're saying about ruts though. Even on the fat, unless I can get a good angle, and have perfectly dialed pressure, I can totally get stuck in tire ruts and need to bail. It sucks. At least a few of my regular bike paths are being maintained pretty well this winter (better than the roads).
Another St. Paul person here! (we should have our own channel, at this rate) I used to commute to Mpls on a hybrid with studded tires and it worked well except for ruts, as pretty much everyone has already stated. I switched to studs on my fat bike last winter and it was just in time, with the slush storm in Dec '19, which caused deep icy ruts for months afterwards. The fat tires are definitely more work but can roll over just about anything, meaning less darting into the car lane to avoid crusty chunks of snow.
beautiful bike
Good looking ride, Russ
Studs are illegal in Minnesota. I've gove to chains. Wired on individually, as they wear out over 400-500 miles, and can be replaced. I wire on sash chain., for all the reasons Russ mentioned (it lays flat against the tire, so the clearance is less compromised.
I tried studs but it doesn't really snow enough. Maxxis rambler work fine for me as long as I take it easy.
I like it , nice one Russ .
I've been riding continental top contact winter tires for the past 3 years and found them good on fresh powder to 4 inches deep and on hardpack snow and ice. I like the fact I can fit them under fenders as I live in the PNW and winter rain is my main riding condition. They are terrible on that hard hummocky crud snow on heavily traveled paths in freeze thaw conditions and slush. How do those 45 north tires work in those situations?
Russ, given your experience, on a bike that normally has 29x3, would you go with the 29x2.1 Kahva or the 29x2.6 Wraithchilds?
A front fender can be essential for bicycling in winter conditions. Nothing improves speed and comfort more than not getting hit in the face with slush.
I feel a little bit more strongly about the need for fenders than a preference of either fat tires or skinny studded tires. I split my winter commuting equally between a 1.9" studded tire and 4.5" fatbike tires. I'd keep the skinnier tires if I had to pick only one, but only because falling on ice usually hurts more than falling on deep snow.
I just put Wrathchild 29x2.6’s on my Surly ECR (large). I sound like a tank rolling down the asphalt.
I swear mothers snatch their children off the streets when they hear me coming
I once was going down tarmac road in the mountains at 76kph on a MTB and people were doing just that, but I'm responsible enough to brake before I got to passing them. Oh yeah, they've heared that diving bomber for sure :-)