These are the crimpers we use when we repin the connectors to fix these Bally games! amzn.to/3aLST7Y ANYTHING! you buy on Amazon after clicking that link doesn't raise your prices but gives us a referral tip, thank you!
I just put one of these in my garage to "restore". It was in a barn for 22 years. It looks solid, but I am going through it to make sure that no mice have clipped any wires... Then I'll plug it in and see what's what. Those video is awesome!
Thank you for posting these videos. I purchased a chicago coin Sound Stage pinball machine that has a lot wrong with it and your videos have helped and inspired me! Thanks!
Thanks for this video 👍👍👍 I’ve owned by Bally Eight Ball since 1999. I believe that it’s the first digital scoring game. Some were made with Electro Mechanical scoring.
Not the first Digital game from Bally. There was Freedom and Night Rider before it. However it WAS the first digital game not to have an electro mechanical version, and also it was the first game to utilise the memory capabilities of the solid state tech. It's a really cool game, but can be so brutal with that massive drain on the left :)
Hi Joe's Classic video games, What are the PIA chips used for in the driver board that has all those MOSFETS. The use a PIA chip but any reasons why they use a PIA chip when they can connect the MOSFETS directly to the CPU z80 output pins. The MOSFETS turn off and on the lamps, switches, solenoids to the pinball game.
Hi Bill... I think they just did it so they could put more than the cpu could drive... and also so they could expand the same system in the future (and add more stuff even)
That 250V output may have been forward thinking for higher load machines. Instead of redesigning machines with different chips for different voktages, they buy in bulk for what may be a max requirement. Easier to turn a POT than to design different boards. Great video! Been binge watching these all week! Ty for your effort and time!
When touching up a playfield how in the world do you come up with the right colors? Do you have some sort of paint set you keep on hand that covers most colors you need?
Yes, I keep a bunch of different acrylic paints and then mix them together to get the right shade... if you check out some of our repaint videos I show how we do it on there...
There are a couple of things I've been curious about, and this repair seems as good a time as any to ask - In the back box of a solid-state pinball machine, it appears that a fair amount of damage over time is caused by heat build up between the voltages distributed to various boards, and to a certain degree (no pun intended), heat build up from incandescent lights in the front of the back box proper (although this heat damage appears to be limited to the back glass, in the form of peeling/flaking paint... One of the reasons I am an advocate of LED Lighting, but I digress...). My first question is - In your opinion, would the addition of a small exhaust fan in the back box remove enough heat to significantly extend the life of the solid-state boards, as well as reduce the acceleration of heat damage to the back glass? Along the same lines, would a slightly larger exhaust fan in the main body of a pinball machine (perhaps on the bottom) have a notable effect on the heat from energized components (potentially extending their life)? My second question concerns repairability - It would seem that, again starting with the back box, most, if not all components that may need to be replaced at some point are connected with plugs (bulbs, are, of course, socketed). On the play field, however, many of the components that may need to be replaced over time (most notably coils) appear to be soldered. Is there a reason that these parts are connected by soldering wires to them? The coils (and motors, and switches) for the most part appear to have tabs to which quick-disconnect connectors could be used, to help facilitate a speedy repair/replacement. Is there a practical reason I may be missing as to why these components are connected this way? Oh, incidentally, 'Refurbish' is an accurate description of what you do (and a damn fine job you do, as well... ;-) )
The second one is the easiest to answer, they don't use quick disconnects for a few reasons... first some of those components actually vibrate (the coils) so the disconnect might not be ideal in that situation... second it was slightly cheaper to solder it (but probably minimally)... and third if you solder all the wires it's very hard to put one in the wrong place whereas if they all disconnected easily it'd be at least possible to accidentally swap wires. In the backbox since they're all grouped into plugs it is harder to do that... but on the playfield you need single wires going all over the place. As for heat it was a huge problem but the company's opinion was they only wanted the game to last about two years. They didn't design them long term at all.... what most people typically do is they put cooler bulbs in it if they leave incandescents (47's, instead of 44's... which is what we do) which lowers the heat by about half... in a typical situation where you're playing it at home it minimizes the heat where it's not much of an issue. The coils under the playfield don't put off much heat but all the bulbs down there of course do... an exhaust fan would work fine I'd think... but if you were going to use it enough to build up a lot of heat (like operating it for hours a day) you'd definitely be better off swapping to LED's just to keep it cool.
Hi Joe, new subscriber here - great channel, double thumbs up for teaching how to do actual diagnosis, cheers. At the 28 min mark where the board is damaged had me laughing as it reminded me of a C4 Corvette cluster I repaired years. The mechanic decided to rework all the dry joints on the connector himself but used a plumbers iron to do it and put gouges all up and down the board about a cm away from the actual joint - for a while i could not work out how they managed to do it.
Fantastik video. Just bought My first pinball Bally Playboy(oh Boy, it neat) and disconnected the solinoid-board, for resoldering) Through this video, I found out the PSU is ok... Thx again m8 :D
Very cool Martin, glad it helped you on your game! The hardest part of youtube is finding the info you need, it's all there in the videos but finding which video is the tricky part :)
@@LyonsArcade excactly... I looked some of your videos Through, and suddently something needfull for My project is explained..... Regarding My playboy Its dead, with only the lights on(not the score though). But im a patient Guy.. Will check the solinoid board tomorrow... Thx again for your videos... They are really informative, with a good and calm flow;)
You're dead on target, look at the solenoid voltages next then move over to the MPU and see if it's getting the 5v and the 12v, and watch the LED on it to see how many flashes you're getting. You'll get it up and running....
Hi Joe Classic, The older pinball games motherboards had to manually set the dipswitches step by step to save the settings. Do you have videos showing how to do this step by step saving the setting using the dipswitches. What is the theory behind this, why did you have to do it step by step saving each setting in EEPROM chip like this?
it doesnt' save anything in the eprom it just checks to see how the settings switches are set when the game is turned on, it doesn't actually change anything on the eeprom.
I agree that on a switched mode P/S a 5vdc reg should be putting out nothing more than 5.15-ish VDC, because boards built using that spec....used that spec! Older component boards like this were a little more sloppy in the ranges (unless you are talking test equipt.). So for a board guy with "today's" knowledge, yes, I would be afraid of running at the high vdc. I wonder if the high VDC and load set is due to the transformer hertz. I wonder if the size difference can induce more cross voltages and or the sag level is different. Just wondering, but I bet this is fine as some of the boards seem to have their own filtering for the power input. Hmmm...I need to learn more. I may never work on a game machine but repair and board level stuff are things I have always wanted to learn. I also have a little bit of background in tube amps in which transformer sag in sometimes wanted... Thanks for the neat vids, not sure how you popped up in my list but you did and I subscribed. Do you watch Dave Jones, 12VoltVids, Fran (Frantone), or maybe even Rossman Repair group? Anyways, thanks for helping keep the scrap yards free of stuff that can be reused!
Thanks for watching Jason, i don't believe I've watched any of those four but I'll check them out! Yes you're probably right the pinballs probably were more tolerant of slightly higher voltages....
okay so if im not getting power to all the other boards. i should start checking the rectifier board right? i got one right now. that i think is bad. i need to check the voltage like you shown cuz honestly i didn't have my ground prob in the right spot and i was getting no numbers on my meter. do you ever just put a switching power supply in?
The PIA chip sends out an IRQ signal to the CPU, how does a PIA chip generate an IRQ signal? I'm guessing the ROM chips in the arcade game or pinball game doesn't send out IRQ signals or what have you seen IRQ signals used for what purpose?
My brother & I were given $1 to play 8-Ball when we went to the little store with my dad in about '83 or so. I was about 6 and he about 10. We were in that store for FOUR HOURS on that dollar! Good thing my dad loved to talk. I think he and the owner of the little store had the meaning of life figured out by the time we left. You just don't get those kind of experiences at Wal-Mart...🎱
@@LyonsArcade I put a new BR1 on the Rectifier Board and now the feature lights work! Only thing that is weird is sometimes I get 2 flashes from the Green MPU, sometimes 7. The start button has stopped working - I've found out online that re-connecting J3 on the MPU can sort that. Although it goes into attract mode for a bit with flashing 00 scores, it then stops and the bell rings intermittently while the player one score flashes points up - so thinking there is a stuck switch. But YES! Starting from the power and working my way back, getting good volts of all TPs on the rectifier board so the next spare moment I will check and see what the TP's are like on the MPU and other boards. Again, its been great having all these amazing resources online when trying to teach myself Zen and the art of pinball machine maintenance!
That batteri is for the ram and rom for powering the memory. They are in a pc mother board and those are button cell battery usualy 2032. Its probyaly the same in a pinball machine correct me if im Wrong about the battery memory system on your pin machine.
You're correct, it's to save the high scores and the operator's audits. It will run fine without it but sometimes it'll give you strange scores on the display in attract mode.
It didn't really show in the video, but the corrosion was really bad on it, so it wouldn't even try to work because some of the stuff on the board the traces were no longer there, so the power wasn't even connected to anything.
Having some issues with my bally 8 ball. Getting solid led on start up. Have proper voltage on mpu, and new rectifier board. Any idea why I'm getting nothing on start up?
If you've got the 5 volts on the mpu, it's usually a problem with the reset section of the mpu. If there's a bunch of corrosion down in the bottom of the board it will cause that, the reset section is right there. It needs a good cpu chip, and good roms, and the three transistors in the reset section to be working properly for the first flash to happen.
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the info. It has some corrosion but not up far into the board. After I replaced the rectifier, when I first installed it I would get 4-5 flashes. Now nothing.
Williams and ballys first and second mother boards you had to manual save each dipswitch setting. The service manual has a dipswitch laundry list or its on the side of the upper backglass cabinets door just a laundry list of dipswitch settings to be saved.
The old pinball games motherboard you would "save" each dipswitch setting for different configurations it would take hours to do, I thought it was saving each dipswitch settings to an EPROM chip.
That's not true. Bally's machines the dipswitches were just set to whatever you want, it didn't save anything in the eprom and it didn't take any extra time. The Williams games you saved them to an EEProm but it took a few seconds.
Burned board? Maybe they used a soldering iron for plumbers. I built a radio kit using a 100-120W soldering iron. I don't recommend it, but I soon learned how to regulate the heat. I tend to prefer a 30-40W soldering iron.
I'll bet it would be possible to get decent with one of those really strong ones but you'd probably burn up 20 boards before you got good at it :) I think my Weller is probably 40w...
Looks like that power rectifier board had been run without a heatsink for a while. One of those bridges had got quite hot and scorched the board. I just thought "Oh my God" when you mentioned about the person not wanting to "play the 6.1volt is fine thing". Some people have no idea. At that stage it is not a regulated power supply. It's just raw voltage out of the bridge, not even filtered. Some people or just ridiculous and shouldnt be playing with electronics. That burning on the solenoid driver board pins looks like a dodgy tech went in with a small blow torch to reflow the solder rather than a proper soldering iron.
Yeah i'll bet it was one of those plumber irons. Nothing wrong with plumbing but man they really screwed that connector up! We got it though! Thanks for watching Brendan!
So in pinball repair ignore the advice of hip hop group Public Enemy. Follow the power and don't fight the power. I'm inclined to think the smart a.....s haters typically don't have repair channels. I'm enjoying this journey as usual.
These are the crimpers we use when we repin the connectors to fix these Bally games! amzn.to/3aLST7Y
ANYTHING! you buy on Amazon after clicking that link doesn't raise your prices but gives us a referral tip, thank you!
I just put one of these in my garage to "restore". It was in a barn for 22 years. It looks solid, but I am going through it to make sure that no mice have clipped any wires... Then I'll plug it in and see what's what. Those video is awesome!
Go for it Jeffery, you should be able to get it going!
I would say you are "revitalizing" these pinballs. Love these videos!
That’s a good way of putting it, thank you
Or 'refurbishing'. Is that going too far? 🤷♂
"Come on people..."
Thank you for posting these videos. I purchased a chicago coin Sound Stage pinball machine that has a lot wrong with it and your videos have helped and inspired me! Thanks!
You'll get her going again Christopher, they start making sense after you mess around with them a little bit!
Thanks for this video 👍👍👍
I’ve owned by Bally Eight Ball since 1999. I believe that it’s the first digital scoring game. Some were made with Electro Mechanical scoring.
‘My’ lol
If it wasn't first it was one of the first, I think it came out in '77 which is really really early for a digital!
Were any of the computers hot?????
That sounds like a plot off a 1980's Tales form the Darkside episode!
Not the first Digital game from Bally. There was Freedom and Night Rider before it. However it WAS the first digital game not to have an electro mechanical version, and also it was the first game to utilise the memory capabilities of the solid state tech. It's a really cool game, but can be so brutal with that massive drain on the left :)
Your work is always CLEAN.
We try! It's hard to keep a good balance between how much work to do, and can you sell it for enough to pay for the work you do.
Hi Joe's Classic video games, What are the PIA chips used for in the driver board that has all those MOSFETS. The use a PIA chip but any reasons why they use a PIA chip when they can connect the MOSFETS directly to the CPU z80 output pins. The MOSFETS turn off and on the lamps, switches, solenoids to the pinball game.
Hi Bill... I think they just did it so they could put more than the cpu could drive... and also so they could expand the same system in the future (and add more stuff even)
Just wondering where I can find the manual you use
You can get one at www.IPDB.org you can search for any pinball on there go check it out!
Bought my 8-ball, replaced with alltek mpu and has been running for a year plus. I see you had a bit more work then I. Good vid
Thanks Dad :) Yes this one was a MESS, but we're getting there, see you on the next video and thanks for watching!
That 250V output may have been forward thinking for higher load machines. Instead of redesigning machines with different chips for different voktages, they buy in bulk for what may be a max requirement. Easier to turn a POT than to design different boards.
Great video! Been binge watching these all week! Ty for your effort and time!
When touching up a playfield how in the world do you come up with the right colors?
Do you have some sort of paint set you keep on hand that covers most colors you need?
Yes, I keep a bunch of different acrylic paints and then mix them together to get the right shade... if you check out some of our repaint videos I show how we do it on there...
With pins, do you prefer working on em or ss/dot matrix etc?
I think I like the EM's better, mainly I just like working on something I haven't worked on before so I like all of them pretty well.
Can someone please tell me how to power on the pinball machine. I have the exact one. Thank you!
RSPD there is a switch behind the front right leg, check it out!
There are a couple of things I've been curious about, and this repair seems as good a time as any to ask - In the back box of a solid-state pinball machine, it appears that a fair amount of damage over time is caused by heat build up between the voltages distributed to various boards, and to a certain degree (no pun intended), heat build up from incandescent lights in the front of the back box proper (although this heat damage appears to be limited to the back glass, in the form of peeling/flaking paint... One of the reasons I am an advocate of LED Lighting, but I digress...). My first question is - In your opinion, would the addition of a small exhaust fan in the back box remove enough heat to significantly extend the life of the solid-state boards, as well as reduce the acceleration of heat damage to the back glass? Along the same lines, would a slightly larger exhaust fan in the main body of a pinball machine (perhaps on the bottom) have a notable effect on the heat from energized components (potentially extending their life)?
My second question concerns repairability - It would seem that, again starting with the back box, most, if not all components that may need to be replaced at some point are connected with plugs (bulbs, are, of course, socketed). On the play field, however, many of the components that may need to be replaced over time (most notably coils) appear to be soldered. Is there a reason that these parts are connected by soldering wires to them? The coils (and motors, and switches) for the most part appear to have tabs to which quick-disconnect connectors could be used, to help facilitate a speedy repair/replacement. Is there a practical reason I may be missing as to why these components are connected this way?
Oh, incidentally, 'Refurbish' is an accurate description of what you do (and a damn fine job you do, as well... ;-) )
The second one is the easiest to answer, they don't use quick disconnects for a few reasons... first some of those components actually vibrate (the coils) so the disconnect might not be ideal in that situation... second it was slightly cheaper to solder it (but probably minimally)... and third if you solder all the wires it's very hard to put one in the wrong place whereas if they all disconnected easily it'd be at least possible to accidentally swap wires. In the backbox since they're all grouped into plugs it is harder to do that... but on the playfield you need single wires going all over the place.
As for heat it was a huge problem but the company's opinion was they only wanted the game to last about two years. They didn't design them long term at all.... what most people typically do is they put cooler bulbs in it if they leave incandescents (47's, instead of 44's... which is what we do) which lowers the heat by about half... in a typical situation where you're playing it at home it minimizes the heat where it's not much of an issue. The coils under the playfield don't put off much heat but all the bulbs down there of course do... an exhaust fan would work fine I'd think... but if you were going to use it enough to build up a lot of heat (like operating it for hours a day) you'd definitely be better off swapping to LED's just to keep it cool.
Hi Joe, new subscriber here - great channel, double thumbs up for teaching how to do actual diagnosis, cheers. At the 28 min mark where the board is damaged had me laughing as it reminded me of a C4 Corvette cluster I repaired years. The mechanic decided to rework all the dry joints on the connector himself but used a plumbers iron to do it and put gouges all up and down the board about a cm away from the actual joint - for a while i could not work out how they managed to do it.
Maybe the same guy worked on this one! LOL We got it all straightened out though.....
Nice game👍 I have Bally Eight Ball Deluxe still wait for restoration. Work 😄
We've got one of those too the Limited Edition one with the short backglass, we'll be doing a video on it.... eventually, lol
Rejuvenated.
Fantastik video. Just bought My first pinball Bally Playboy(oh Boy, it neat) and disconnected the solinoid-board, for resoldering)
Through this video, I found out the PSU is ok... Thx again m8 :D
Very cool Martin, glad it helped you on your game! The hardest part of youtube is finding the info you need, it's all there in the videos but finding which video is the tricky part :)
@@LyonsArcade excactly... I looked some of your videos Through, and suddently something needfull for My project is explained..... Regarding My playboy Its dead, with only the lights on(not the score though). But im a patient Guy.. Will check the solinoid board tomorrow... Thx again for your videos... They are really informative, with a good and calm flow;)
You're dead on target, look at the solenoid voltages next then move over to the MPU and see if it's getting the 5v and the 12v, and watch the LED on it to see how many flashes you're getting. You'll get it up and running....
Hi Joe Classic, The older pinball games motherboards had to manually set the dipswitches step by step to save the settings. Do you have videos showing how to do this step by step saving the setting using the dipswitches. What is the theory behind this, why did you have to do it step by step saving each setting in EEPROM chip like this?
it doesnt' save anything in the eprom it just checks to see how the settings switches are set when the game is turned on, it doesn't actually change anything on the eeprom.
I agree that on a switched mode P/S a 5vdc reg should be putting out nothing more than 5.15-ish VDC, because boards built using that spec....used that spec! Older component boards like this were a little more sloppy in the ranges (unless you are talking test equipt.). So for a board guy with "today's" knowledge, yes, I would be afraid of running at the high vdc. I wonder if the high VDC and load set is due to the transformer hertz. I wonder if the size difference can induce more cross voltages and or the sag level is different. Just wondering, but I bet this is fine as some of the boards seem to have their own filtering for the power input. Hmmm...I need to learn more. I may never work on a game machine but repair and board level stuff are things I have always wanted to learn. I also have a little bit of background in tube amps in which transformer sag in sometimes wanted...
Thanks for the neat vids, not sure how you popped up in my list but you did and I subscribed. Do you watch Dave Jones, 12VoltVids, Fran (Frantone), or maybe even Rossman Repair group?
Anyways, thanks for helping keep the scrap yards free of stuff that can be reused!
Thanks for watching Jason, i don't believe I've watched any of those four but I'll check them out! Yes you're probably right the pinballs probably were more tolerant of slightly higher voltages....
Sympathetic restoration is what you do :)
That's a good way to put it :)
retrofitted ! ! !
That's a good word for it :)
okay so if im not getting power to all the other boards. i should start checking the rectifier board right? i got one right now. that i think is bad. i need to check the voltage like you shown cuz honestly i didn't have my ground prob in the right spot and i was getting no numbers on my meter. do you ever just put a switching power supply in?
The PIA chip sends out an IRQ signal to the CPU, how does a PIA chip generate an IRQ signal? I'm guessing the ROM chips in the arcade game or pinball game doesn't send out IRQ signals or what have you seen IRQ signals used for what purpose?
I'm not sure man, I've never had to check or even understand what the IRQ signals are or what they do.
My brother & I were given $1 to play 8-Ball when we went to the little store with my dad in about '83 or so. I was about 6 and he about 10. We were in that store for FOUR HOURS on that dollar! Good thing my dad loved to talk. I think he and the owner of the little store had the meaning of life figured out by the time we left. You just don't get those kind of experiences at Wal-Mart...🎱
Thanks so much for making this vid! Trying to fix a strikes n spares at the moment.
Very cool Edward, just walk through it from the power supply out and you should get it up and running!
@@LyonsArcade I put a new BR1 on the Rectifier Board and now the feature lights work! Only thing that is weird is sometimes I get 2 flashes from the Green MPU, sometimes 7. The start button has stopped working - I've found out online that re-connecting J3 on the MPU can sort that. Although it goes into attract mode for a bit with flashing 00 scores, it then stops and the bell rings intermittently while the player one score flashes points up - so thinking there is a stuck switch. But YES! Starting from the power and working my way back, getting good volts of all TPs on the rectifier board so the next spare moment I will check and see what the TP's are like on the MPU and other boards. Again, its been great having all these amazing resources online when trying to teach myself Zen and the art of pinball machine maintenance!
Thanks for showing all this! Getting caught up on your vidoes. AK summers take up my pinball time. This thing was really hacked up.
I figured since yall had so much sun up there you got alll kindddds of things done every day :)
@@LyonsArcade Yep, starting to get dark now. All kinds of wildfires happening too, so time to work on my pins!
@@LyonsArcade Next time you are bored and on Pinside, I have a "sharing Alaska" thread for some of my pics. Pop in and say Hi!
How do you fix the paddles o move when hitting the buttons?
That batteri is for the ram and rom for powering the memory. They are in a pc mother board and those are button cell battery usualy 2032. Its probyaly the same in a pinball machine correct me if im Wrong about the battery memory system on your pin machine.
You're correct, it's to save the high scores and the operator's audits. It will run fine without it but sometimes it'll give you strange scores on the display in attract mode.
Did the Stern pcb blow due to the wrong fuses?
It didn't really show in the video, but the corrosion was really bad on it, so it wouldn't even try to work because some of the stuff on the board the traces were no longer there, so the power wasn't even connected to anything.
Having some issues with my bally 8 ball. Getting solid led on start up. Have proper voltage on mpu, and new rectifier board. Any idea why I'm getting nothing on start up?
If you've got the 5 volts on the mpu, it's usually a problem with the reset section of the mpu. If there's a bunch of corrosion down in the bottom of the board it will cause that, the reset section is right there. It needs a good cpu chip, and good roms, and the three transistors in the reset section to be working properly for the first flash to happen.
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the info. It has some corrosion but not up far into the board. After I replaced the rectifier, when I first installed it I would get 4-5 flashes. Now nothing.
Williams and ballys first and second mother boards you had to manual save each dipswitch setting. The service manual has a dipswitch laundry list or its on the side of the upper backglass cabinets door just a laundry list of dipswitch settings to be saved.
I'd call it reconditioned in place of restored.
That's a good word for it, thanks!
Cool video. 👍
Thank you Bob!
Where can I purchase a like-new back-box for this game. Mine is dry-rotted.
When I first played this back in 1977, I was mad it didn't play the Happy Days theme. Even if they was using bells and chimes I still want to hear.
The old pinball games motherboard you would "save" each dipswitch setting for different configurations it would take hours to do, I thought it was saving each dipswitch settings to an EPROM chip.
That's not true. Bally's machines the dipswitches were just set to whatever you want, it didn't save anything in the eprom and it didn't take any extra time. The Williams games you saved them to an EEProm but it took a few seconds.
Burned board? Maybe they used a soldering iron for plumbers. I built a radio kit using a 100-120W soldering iron. I don't recommend it, but I soon learned how to regulate the heat. I tend to prefer a 30-40W soldering iron.
I'll bet it would be possible to get decent with one of those really strong ones but you'd probably burn up 20 boards before you got good at it :) I think my Weller is probably 40w...
5-Volt is also the name of a character (The mom of 9-Volt) in WarioWare
Looks like that power rectifier board had been run without a heatsink for a while. One of those bridges had got quite hot and scorched the board.
I just thought "Oh my God" when you mentioned about the person not wanting to "play the 6.1volt is fine thing".
Some people have no idea. At that stage it is not a regulated power supply. It's just raw voltage out of the bridge, not even filtered. Some people or just ridiculous and shouldnt be playing with electronics.
That burning on the solenoid driver board pins looks like a dodgy tech went in with a small blow torch to reflow the solder rather than a proper soldering iron.
Yeah i'll bet it was one of those plumber irons. Nothing wrong with plumbing but man they really screwed that connector up! We got it though! Thanks for watching Brendan!
So in pinball repair ignore the advice of hip hop group Public Enemy. Follow the power and don't fight the power. I'm inclined to think the smart a.....s haters typically don't have repair channels. I'm enjoying this journey as usual.
You know... they NEVER have any repair videos on their account when I check, LOL Everybody likes to throw rocks :)
The word you were looking for is refurbish ;-)
Yes that was it... someone else mentioned rehabilitate, I like that one too...
Or reconditioned
Rejuvenated is another good word... I think.
How about "refreshed'
That works!
"Refurbish"? How about that description?
I think that would definitely apply here, I like to under promise and over deliver :)
Refurbish is probably best but I also like rehabilitate just because.
That works too. I might start using that one in the videos....
Revitalized
Refurbish
That's a good word for it!
Refurbish
That's a good word for it, thanks!
I want to say this thing got scavenged for parts? Maybe?
refurbished