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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2017
- Upgrading from a traditional stuffing box, or shaft seal, to a more modern dripless shaft seal will keep the bilge of your boat dry and odor-free. You'll start by removing the coupling from the shaft from the transmission, then remove the old stuffing box. You'll clean up the shaft, install the new rotor and bellows, reattach the shaft to the transmission, and reinstall the ground wire. Then you'll lock the rotor onto the shaft using set screws. It’s a fairly complicated DIY project, but if you have a day or two to spare it could be a worthwhile investment. Join BoatUS Associate editor Mark Corke as he walks you through all the steps from start to finish.
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#stuffingbox #shaftseal #boatus - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I know this is now an 'old video' but it might still be chanced upon and used for reference so I think it's worth mentioning that the manufacturer supplies four of the grub screws because you are supposed to use four. The first two go deep into each of the two holes in the fitting and are tightened against the surface of the shaft, then the other two are put in behind those first ones to lock them in.
Thanks for sharing, Black Duck. I'm sure someone will find this useful.
Yes, and it's balanced for them all... albeit insignificant but...
Excellent video. The only thing we missed was putting the new shaft seal on the shaft. Probably straightforward but would be good to see.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great demo video!
Thanks for watching, Charlie!
Thank you
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Excellent video.
Thanks for watching, Robert!!
TY!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
If only all boats had the same access to the dripless boxes. .....
If only all boats had good access to a lot of things ... Thanks for watching, Joshua!
Very clear, as far as it goes, but wondering why you chose to leave out the installation of the rest of the shaft seal?
I agree, they should’ve showed the whole thing.
great video thank you
You're welcome, Matthew. Working on getting you an answer to your question about benefits of upgrading.
@@boatus if you need a picture of what I have can send you. Thanks again.
Nice and clear but a bit rushed at the end. Thanks.
Brilliant! Ty
Thanks for watching, Gad!
@@boatus question: so connect engine exhaust water to the dripless nipple for lubricating water supply?
"just a little gentle pressure with puller and liberal amounts of oil" *hammer sitting by foot* lol
great video except you didnt post the actual installing of the new stern gland. ...
You said you struggled to remove the compression washer on the old stuffing box. I have the issue and it's stuck big time. How did you manage to do that? Which tools?
Thanks for your question, Sebastien. As I show in the video, I've removed the entire stuffing box from the shaft as I was replacing it with a dripless shaft seal. Are you trying to service your existing stuffing box, or are you having difficulty removing the entire thing from the shaft? If your intention is to replace the traditional stuffing box with a dripless, there is no need to separate the components. I merely did it in the video to show how it differs from the dripless seal. Let us know, and we can get you more information.
Hi, great video. At the end part, How did you have the rotor compress the rubber the 1 inch? Just by hand is it possible?
Thanks for watching. Yes, it is more than possible to compress the bellows without tools. As you can see in the video I put some blue tape on the shaft with the bellows ”at rest,” then the stainless rotor is pushed down the requisite amount, by hand, as outlined in the instructions, before tightening the set screws to lock the rotor to the shaft.
BoatUS fantastic, thanks so much!
What grit sandpaper should I use on the prop shaft?
Thanks for the question, Julie. Nothing coarser than 240-grit. In most cases 400 grit is more than adequate. It’s only used to polish the shaft - you don’t want to remove lots of metal or leave scratches on the shaft that could cause leaks.
I have been advised that I should upgrade from a fixed stainless steel stuffing box into my 20HP Nanni gearbox to a PSS. Apart from the slight drip required is there any other benefit in terms of flexibilty of doing that? Is there more flexibility in engine alignment with PSS that is an improvement? I would rather not spend the money if its not necessary. thanks
Engine alignment won't change, Matthew, but maintenance needs and longevity will get a significant boost. While we can't speak to the PSS brand specifically, boatbuilders moved to dripless shaft seals decades ago, and they are generally considered superior to the old stuffings box. Hope this helps you weigh your options.
I have an old drip less shaft seal. It requires burping, to get the air out of the shaft log, each spring. Is this required on the new dripless shaft seals too? I don’t see how injecting water will displace the air trapped in the shaft log. Nice description of the process.
Hi Mark. You didn’t say the brand of your dripless shaft seal or its age or type or your boat type. It’s always best to pose a question like this to the manufacturer of the dripless seal. However, I can tell you that I have a relatively new dripless shaft seal and it doesn’t require burping, but it has raw water injection from the engine’s raw water cooling side into the shaft seal. This provides cooling for the seal and some lubrication. And typically it will replace any air left in the seal when you relaunch. Other seals may require burping. If you get a new seal, check the instructions before you buy. Obviously, if you have a sailboat and allow the shaft to rotate when you’re under sail (most people do), you won’t have that water injection from your engine when it’s off. It’s a good idea to always go below and check out all your engine room equipment and thru-hulls when you launch. -- Tom Neale
Tom, frist let me say I enjoyed the video. A good balance between video length with enough detail to understand the instillation process. I have a PYI shaft seal that was installed prior to my purchase 10 years ago. It dosn't have an injection port. The boat is a Nonsuch 26 sailboat with an 18 hp Westerbeke and a 1" shaft. When motoring I run between 1200 -2200 rpm. I feather the prop when the engine is off. The reason I ask if the new seals with injection need to be burped after the boat is launched is because I don't see how the air bubble trapped at the top of the shaft log could be forced down the shaft log by injecting water. I understand the water injection will cool the seal.
@@markmaugle4599 -- Thanks for your kind words about the video. Mark Corke filmed it. He's out today, but I'll pass along your message. All I can say is that the air bubble is normally forced out by injecting water through the injection nipple. Other shaft seals that don’t utilize the water injection may need to be burped. My system (by another manufacturer) certainly does that. (I say “normally” because I suppose there is always an unexpected weird issue simply because it’s a boat, and I almost always use that weasel word.) But you shouldn’t have to worry about burping a PYI shaft seal, which has engine cooling water injected into the seal vial its injection nipple. But you can always burp it if you want to. PYI, like many other manufacturers, is happy to talk with customers or perspective purchasers who have questions. I called them, and they said the same thing. Their number is 425-355-3669 or 800-523-7558 and, of course, their website is helpful.--Tom
Silly question perhaps, but can this be done while the boat is in the water?
There are no silly questions, Michael. Just dumb mistakes. We absolutely do not recommend doing this while the boat is in the water. Once you remove the shaft seal, you have a hole in the boat. Be safe and do it only when the boat is on the hard.
how come you did not finish showing where and how you installed the water injection fittings.
Hi there - thanks for reaching out. I simply reconnected up the water feed pipe that was removed from the old shaft seal as I mentioned toward the end of the video. There is a companion story that is being published in BoatUS Magazine very soon where you can see pictures of how I made those connections.
Is it okay to rotate the coupling with the o rings in it while it's across the shaft keyway? Seems like that would damage the o rings? I have zero experience so I'm just asking:) Thank you!
Thanks for the question, Mike. I have consulted one of our pros and he says it should not be a problem. The edges of the keyway are no higher than the shaft. Hope this helps!
Why do you have to disassemble the coupling? Wouldn't it be enough to just loosen all the bolts and the screw in the flange?
Thanks for the question Mikolaj. I’m not sure what you mean when you say “loosen the bolts and screw in the flange.” The existing coupling from the transmission has to be disassembled in order to get the old stuffing box off and slide the new dripless seal down the prop shaft into place.
@@boatus I understand that you have to get the shaft free at the engine side. I imagined that you could simply slide the shaft out of the flange, while leaving the flange bolted to the coupling. It doesn't work on my boat thought, the shaft is "frozen" in the flange so I have to dismantle the coupling in order to move the shaft.
What size Allen key was that 1/4?
Thanks for asking, John. I'm not sure, and Mark has now retired so I don't have access to that info. I think it all depends on the individual shaft seal though.
is it safe to do this in the water ? I did 1 in the water and a not too bad stream came in.
Good question, Klaas, but the short answer is no. It's not a good idea. You got lucky, but it could have easily ended up a disaster.
Did not actually see the shaft seal go on....
You showed everything except installing the dripless shaft seal.
I will not in good conscience install or repair “dripless” types. I have no problem converting back to conventional “packing” using GTU (graphite/Teflon types) on stainless shafts. If done right, running true and centered, they need very little adjustment as well as lasting many thousands running hours. If someone insists, I walk away and say “Sorry.”
Thanks for the feedback, Karl. It sounds like you have some experience in this area. Is there any particular reason you aren't a fan of dripless shaft seals?
Catastrophic failure is my concern. There’s the one I know about and those I hear about. I don’t know which brands and I don’t know the quality of the preceding installation. Tho it may be rare, however since I don’t keep statistics, I just know, I don’t want to be involved. I do suggest that those that have one to have a very large secondary bilge pump with warning installed which is never a bad idea in any case. This way the compromised shaft can still be used for normal propulsion and emergency repairs can be done in harbor where help and equipment can be accessed. The shaft must remain immobilized to effect temporary repairs to stop the flood of a catastrophic failure.
@@SkypowerwithKarl Thanks for sharing your experiences!