Thanks for this video - well done. The only things I'd add is that Nigel Caulder, the authour of the oustanding "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" recomends cutting the packing diagonally at a 45 degree angle to create some overlap the ends of the rings when installed. That and do the cutting on a portion of the shaft not critical to sealing the gland to avoid scoring it. It's also a good idea to keep your bilge as clean as possible - debri can and will clog your electric bilge pump - usaully at the worst possible moment. I inspect and clean my bilge anually, using a shop vacume and a hose and soapy water and a flashlight. Anything loose that left get's fished out by hand. Also, you can replace packing with your boat in the water. No more than one or two gallons a minute should enter, and your electric bilge pump should handle that easily - or you need to fix / upgrade it. You can also temporarily seal the prop shaft with bee's wax or a rag or something. Bee's wax is used to seal toilets, so any hardware store should have it in the form of a thick ring. They only cost a few dollars. Good to have a couple on board at all times to plug leaks in an emergency. You know, like if your stuffing box packing job leaks during re-comissioning, and your electric bilge pump clogs at the exact same time because you forgot to clean the bilge last year. Ask me how I know this lol.....
Thanks for this. Just put my boat in the water last night and saw this needed to be done. Went to the store, got the packing rope and watched your video - thank you!
great video, hard to do down there! 2 quick tips, First, 5:24 Don't cut the flax right on the mating (shiny part of the shaft) as you could be scoring it with the blade. Second, 6:13 i would have cleaned the shaft, before sliding the stuffing box together, bonus tip, 6:20 you removed 4 rings and installed 3
Excellent video Hayden but I would be careful not to score the shaft with the blade in way of the gland, better to do it a bit further up the shaft.Best regards.
A GOOD TIP IF YOU HAVE TO MUCH WATER COMING IN THE BOAT; Roll up a cigar size with play doh, then roll it with saran rap. Go in the water and stuff it between the shaft and the inlet of the opening. That will slow down the water from coming in the boat.
Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material. Free technical support (sealing, heat preservation, heat insulation, fire prevention problems) All products 1 piece can also be customized, 30 years of service experience, fast and safe shipping anywhere.
Thanks Hayden; great video. I’m on a Tartan 37, same shaft dimensions (a little more room to work though!). On the ICW right now so nervous about doing this in the water; we’ll see how the day goes. Thanks for making and posting this video; I’m going to watch more of your stuff tonight 👍
Thank you! If your doing it in the water have some rags ready to stuff around the shaft to slow the leak while you repack, also make sure your bilge pump is working.
@@haydenfoy5723 Haha; will do. We have to haul out next month for a bottom job; think I’ll hold off until then (steady drip but we live aboard so check bilge daily). Again, thanks for posting the video, and fair winds!
Nice video! Put the seems at 120 degrees, you can put the full length packing around to measure the length in one go. Make a shallow incision but don'r cut it on the shaft ;-)
Hose clamps on the shaft appear to be incorrectly fitted. Each pair of jubilee clips should be fitted in opposing directions. Yours are all fitted in the same direction?
found it on Amazon. im going to my Islander 36 today and check the size needed. I'll loosen it up and pull the flax to measure. 1" shaft may need 5/16 instead.
When cutting the gland packing mitre the packing ends to guarantee a full water tight seal butting the joints aren’t always water tight..alternating the joints as not to be all in alignment.
And how do you adjust once in water? at dock right after launch? want it to drip a little but how much and what is too much? Do you use regular flax or a newer material?
Wondering why you do a final adjustment once the boat is in the water? Do you go for a run with the motor and tighten according to the drip frequency? Great video and background music! Thanks
@@DingoBYD the packing is pretty durable stuff a screw driver wont harm it. Most times the razor blade stuggles to cut it. Thats why i alway put a fresh blade on before i do packing jobs
There is no need to be out of the water to repack a stuffing box its just routine maintenance. Unless you plan on taking all day the amount of water you take on is minimal and easily handled by your bilge pump. I was a shrimp boat captain for 30yrs, so I have a bit of experience. Not a complicated procedure.
Im using gor tex packing which doesnt require grease like flax packing, it also doesnt need sea water for lubrication or cooling and is dripless unlike flax
I was worried about that too. I figure, better that Hayden is out there in freezing cold bilge and doing it his way... than me out there in the frozen bilge and doing it my way. I will guess a light impact of the blade wouldn't cause a scratch. But a heavier impact might scratch the shaft... so both folks have a point to make.
Still probably better to do it outside of the white area of the packing in case you do actually scratch it. Are stainless steel prop shafts coated in chromium like hydraulic cylinders? Those are quite hard.
Watch episode 1 here!
th-cam.com/video/X71PwR7wmD0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this video - well done. The only things I'd add is that Nigel Caulder, the authour of the oustanding "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" recomends cutting the packing diagonally at a 45 degree angle to create some overlap the ends of the rings when installed. That and do the cutting on a portion of the shaft not critical to sealing the gland to avoid scoring it. It's also a good idea to keep your bilge as clean as possible - debri can and will clog your electric bilge pump - usaully at the worst possible moment. I inspect and clean my bilge anually, using a shop vacume and a hose and soapy water and a flashlight. Anything loose that left get's fished out by hand. Also, you can replace packing with your boat in the water. No more than one or two gallons a minute should enter, and your electric bilge pump should handle that easily - or you need to fix / upgrade it. You can also temporarily seal the prop shaft with bee's wax or a rag or something. Bee's wax is used to seal toilets, so any hardware store should have it in the form of a thick ring. They only cost a few dollars. Good to have a couple on board at all times to plug leaks in an emergency.
You know, like if your stuffing box packing job leaks during re-comissioning, and your electric bilge pump clogs at the exact same time because you forgot to clean the bilge last year. Ask me how I know this lol.....
Great advice. Are you near Miami? I am about to buy a sailboat there and in case you have time to give me some mentoring, that would be great.
2:25 Wow, there's a lot of debris and crap lying around in that bilge! Very helpful video, thanks.
Thanks for this. Just put my boat in the water last night and saw this needed to be done. Went to the store, got the packing rope and watched your video - thank you!
Thanks for this handy video, Hayden.
Thanks bro, a no nonsense tutorial that's given me the confidence attempt repacking my stern gland
Good day to you sir
Youre welcome, glad you enjoyed it
awesome video, straight to the point. Thanks for the info! really happy I don't have to pull the engine/prop-shaft to do this.
Nice tutorial - makes it look very simple and straightforward!
Thanks!!
great video, hard to do down there!
2 quick tips, First, 5:24 Don't cut the flax right on the mating (shiny part of the shaft) as you could be scoring it with the blade.
Second, 6:13 i would have cleaned the shaft, before sliding the stuffing box together,
bonus tip, 6:20 you removed 4 rings and installed 3
Thank-you for your straight forward presentation with good quality audio & video!
You're welcome!
Thank you. This is the one to watch.
Really informative video !! And nice filming in the tight space !
Thank you!
Nobody uses film anymore. 😆 Lol
Nice work. Nice tune in the background as well.
Thank you!!
Excellent video Hayden but I would be careful not to score the shaft with the blade in way of the gland, better to do it a bit further up the shaft.Best regards.
A GOOD TIP IF YOU HAVE TO MUCH WATER COMING IN THE BOAT; Roll up a cigar size with play doh, then roll it with saran rap. Go in the water and stuff it between the shaft and the inlet of the opening. That will slow down the water from coming in the boat.
This is literally golden! Thank you so much!!
I like this. I’m going to do it only 88ski nautique this weekend. Thanks
Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material.
Free technical support (sealing, heat preservation, heat insulation, fire prevention problems)
All products 1 piece can also be customized, 30 years of service experience, fast and safe shipping anywhere.
Awesome, thank you for the detailed and straight to the point video!
No problem, thank you!
Thanks Hayden; great video. I’m on a Tartan 37, same shaft dimensions (a little more room to work though!). On the ICW right now so nervous about doing this in the water; we’ll see how the day goes. Thanks for making and posting this video; I’m going to watch more of your stuff tonight 👍
Thank you! If your doing it in the water have some rags ready to stuff around the shaft to slow the leak while you repack, also make sure your bilge pump is working.
@@haydenfoy5723 Haha; will do. We have to haul out next month for a bottom job; think I’ll hold off until then (steady drip but we live aboard so check bilge daily). Again, thanks for posting the video, and fair winds!
@@haydenfoy5723 "also make sure your bilge pump is working" This, lol!
Nice video! Put the seems at 120 degrees, you can put the full length packing around to measure the length in one go. Make a shallow incision but don'r cut it on the shaft ;-)
Excellent video, very helpful, thank you!
Haydon why do you not place the middle packing 90 deg off the other two. Many thanks
Thank you Hayden I needed that tip brother
dude, you are amazing! keep it up!
Thank you!!
Hose clamps on the shaft appear to be incorrectly fitted. Each pair of jubilee clips should be fitted in opposing directions. Yours are all fitted in the same direction?
found it on Amazon. im going to my Islander 36 today and check the size needed. I'll loosen it up and pull the flax to measure. 1" shaft may need 5/16 instead.
Yea it also depends on what brand of stuffing box you have not just shaft size
Can you put an unusually small shaft in a bigger tube....like a 3/4 shaft in a 1 inch or larger tube? Also, are the rubber seal kits expensive?
Great video , thanks very much.
Awesome very helpful well done video
"Haydens how tos" I love it
Great informative video
Very helpful sir, thank you
Thanks for sharing. Any videos planned on dripless shaft systems?
I keep it in mind next time i work on one. Thanks!
@@haydenfoy5723 thank you so much
When cutting the gland packing mitre the packing ends to guarantee a full water tight seal butting the joints aren’t always water tight..alternating the joints as not to be all in alignment.
I do alternate them, do you mean cutting them at a slaint instead of staight?
@@haydenfoy5723 that’s exactly what I mean ends to ends are not fully sealed just pointing it out not meaning anything just an engineers view.
@@davetomlinson8944 Yes, I saw another video on this topic and they guy mentioned doing that too.
Great video Hayden! Thanks!
Great tutorial idol. Look nice !
Thank you!
Great tutorial!
Thank you!!
And how do you adjust once in water? at dock right after launch? want it to drip a little but how much and what is too much? Do you use regular flax or a newer material?
I recomend useing the same brand packing i do in the video, Ep3 will be how to adjust once in the water
Wondering why you do a final adjustment once the boat is in the water? Do you go for a run with the motor and tighten according to the drip frequency? Great video and background music! Thanks
i was wondering the same thing.
The stuffing box drips 2-3 drips a minute, so it needs to be in the water to set drip rate. May be more or less on drip rate, but you get the idea.
Thanks, that was excellent!
how do you know what thickness to buy? i have a choice of 3mm or 5mm
Great video
Super clear!
Excellent
Great video. Quick question? Could you use the threads to seat each level of packing?
Yes you can, I do that sometimes if i have trouble pushing it with the screw driver
Just need to be carefull, sometimes the rings will spin and the gaps wont be right
@@haydenfoy5723 You should not be useing a screwdriver in the first place, unless you want to damage /cut the packing.
@@DingoBYD the packing is pretty durable stuff a screw driver wont harm it. Most times the razor blade stuggles to cut it. Thats why i alway put a fresh blade on before i do packing jobs
Super helpful! Thank you
muy claro ......gracias
Gracias!
What about rudder shafts
Dude. That was very educational. So what is the final adjustment. What is this thing supposed to do?
Tighten it to where it allows 6 to 10 drops of water every minute so that it keeps everything lubricated
Thanks man.
No problem, glad it helped
There is no need to be out of the water to repack a stuffing box its just routine maintenance. Unless you plan on taking all day the amount of water you take on is minimal and easily handled by your bilge pump. I was a shrimp boat captain for 30yrs, so I have a bit of experience. Not a complicated procedure.
Yea ive told my service manager that but he doesnt want to take the chance
5hank you!
GReat video thank you so much!
Youre welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you.
Dude, thank you!
Why dont ya have to add some grease to that material, before reassembling?
Im using gor tex packing which doesnt require grease like flax packing, it also doesnt need sea water for lubrication or cooling and is dripless unlike flax
Wonder how they did this back in the Columbus / Marco Polo / Magellan days?
They didnt😊
You took out 4 pieces and only installed 3. Did this cause a problem, or did you just screw it down further?
Didnt cause any issues just tightens down farther, i felt 4 was a bit too much. Typically 2 or 3 rings is plenty
You should be using a brass or bronze brush. NOT a steel one
Scoring your propeller shaft with the blade will shred your packing in no-time
That shaft is way harder steel then the knife
@@haydenfoy5723 i bet it's not!
I was worried about that too. I figure, better that Hayden is out there in freezing cold bilge and doing it his way... than me out there in the frozen bilge and doing it my way. I will guess a light impact of the blade wouldn't cause a scratch. But a heavier impact might scratch the shaft... so both folks have a point to make.
Still probably better to do it outside of the white area of the packing in case you do actually scratch it. Are stainless steel prop shafts coated in chromium like hydraulic cylinders? Those are quite hard.
Don't use Graphite packing in salt water . It will cause corrosion in salt water . Reference Nigel Calder.
Good to know this boat is in the upper chesapeake bay so more fresh water
Turned on because I was really interested. Heard the daft needless music. Turned off.
Thank you, good video... Well done.