With popcorn in hand I was nervously anticipating a Titanic-ish disaster. My engineer is a CPR expert so not to worry Jon… Great job, you made it look too easy, have a good week y’all!.
Tides are the next dripless seals I am going to install. The PYI have been nothing but trouble. I have replaced them twice and they start leaking after 1 or 2 seasons. Good video as usual.
If you are going through dripless shaft seals at an unusual rate, there might be another problem. Many times a ding on the prop will translate into a small vibration in the shaft and into the dripless seal. You might not even feel the vibration but just because you don't feel it doesn't mean it's not there. Additionally, these vibrations can eventually act on, and start producing metal, in your transmission. As a marine surveyor, I have seen this happened before. I suggest a very close inspection of the propeller on the side of the shaft that continuously needs to be replaced. That might be the culprit-might not be, but it's certainly worth a look.
Jon-what a brilliant video. Thanks for calming the fears on water entry-I have the same system and have wondered how I’m going to handle it when the time comes.
Well, Jon, yet another well done video for educating people on how to do things yourself, and do them right. Excellent videos, professionally done, well photographed, well thought out. Nice job buddy.
Great diy video ( again) question.. when you're on the hard do you just install another future seal?... I do this with inside v- belts on the engine. Would make sense with the seals to me
Good video and good comments. Made replacing mine easy, however hard to just get to. I went down to do this project with a full stomach... bad choice... working half upside down in a hot bilge was not good.
I believe there is a little inner ring on the casing of the spare seal that is intended for use to help push the new seal into position (instead of hammer the new seal).
I changed my and it still leaking. I have to move the shaft to a position where is not. Wondering if my shaft is vent somehow or if my cutlass bearing is bad. Help. I forgot to mention that my isn't this eas, it's under the engine with not espace.
Nice engine room. Just saying, get some real tools. I would of lubed the shaft a bit first. The engine coupling on my boat would never be let to get looking like that. (Former marine diesel mechanic.) Live long and prosper.🥰
Pretty sure the instructions say NOT to lube (except maybe a bit of soap) as it can damage the seal. I expect that is a YCA instruction as people can and will use improper lubricants. One safe for the seal material would almost certainly be fine.
I still don’t know why people think these cleverly engineered seals are better than old fashioned flax and wax compression seals. Two wrenches and a $5 bag of replacement stuffing is all that’s needed. If you carefully monitor a fresh install, you readjust the compression until the drips just stop when at rest or reduce the drip to one a minute when running. It isn’t rocket science. A little water in the bilge helps keep it clean as it gets bilge pumped out with the crap that falls into the bilge from life aboard.
you are so right. I have had two emergency haulouts with PSS dripless seals.. one was the prev owner of my Sabre 42 and yesterday my Sabre 36 was taking on 5 gallons an hour underway running out of the PSS dripless bellows leak.. Not to mention that you need to haulout and 6 hours at $180 an hour to decouple the shaft, replace a PSS dripless, and put it all back together again. I had the old fashioned flax and wax in my Krogen 42. worked great and nearly costless.
Definitely switching to Tides dripless when my current ones go bad. Having extra seals lined up for easy replacement is BRILLIANT!!! :)
Well done! I'm changing out a Tidewater seal so finding this video is really helpful.
With popcorn in hand I was nervously anticipating a Titanic-ish disaster. My engineer is a CPR expert so not to worry Jon… Great job, you made it look too easy, have a good week y’all!.
I love popcorn and I know CPR and I hope that neither of those will happen in the engine room *K
Wife and myself also toying with the same idea :) safe journeys!
Thanks, you too!
Super demo! I have these and now I know how to change. Thank you.
Nice Video--makes me wish my PSS seals were Tides.
Great Job, Skipper...!!!
Thanks!
I have the same system and always wondered how I’d do the changeout someday. Very useful information!
Thanks for the great video. Needing to change mine after about eight years.
Tides are the next dripless seals I am going to install. The PYI have been nothing but trouble. I have replaced them twice and they start leaking after 1 or 2 seasons. Good video as usual.
If you are going through dripless shaft seals at an unusual rate, there might be another problem. Many times a ding on the prop will translate into a small vibration in the shaft and into the dripless seal. You might not even feel the vibration but just because you don't feel it doesn't mean it's not there. Additionally, these vibrations can eventually act on, and start producing metal, in your transmission.
As a marine surveyor, I have seen this happened before. I suggest a very close inspection of the propeller on the side of the shaft that continuously needs to be replaced. That might be the culprit-might not be, but it's certainly worth a look.
Jon-what a brilliant video. Thanks for calming the fears on water entry-I have the same system and have wondered how I’m going to handle it when the time comes.
Well, Jon, yet another well done video for educating people on how to do things yourself, and do them right. Excellent videos, professionally done, well photographed, well thought out. Nice job buddy.
Great diy video ( again) question.. when you're on the hard do you just install another future seal?... I do this with inside v- belts on the engine. Would make sense with the seals to me
Good video and good comments. Made replacing mine easy, however hard to just get to. I went down to do this project with a full stomach... bad choice... working half upside down in a hot bilge was not good.
Does the shaft seal need to be water fed? Or is that as is and just used the hose as a vent?
A section of the propeller shaft is water fed and jacketed in water for lubrication while it is spinning
I believe there is a little inner ring on the casing of the spare seal that is intended for use to help push the new seal into position (instead of hammer the new seal).
nice!!
It took me a whole 5 minutes to realize why the new seals were mounted on a shaft in the first place. 🤣
I changed my and it still leaking. I have to move the shaft to a position where is not. Wondering if my shaft is vent somehow or if my cutlass bearing is bad.
Help.
I forgot to mention that my isn't this eas, it's under the engine with not espace.
Nice engine room. Just saying, get some real tools. I would of lubed the shaft a bit first. The engine coupling on my boat would never be let to get looking like that. (Former marine diesel mechanic.) Live long and prosper.🥰
Pretty sure the instructions say NOT to lube (except maybe a bit of soap) as it can damage the seal. I expect that is a YCA instruction as people can and will use improper lubricants. One safe for the seal material would almost certainly be fine.
Soft hammers are good.
😬
I still don’t know why people think these cleverly engineered seals are better than old fashioned flax and wax compression seals. Two wrenches and a $5 bag of replacement stuffing is all that’s needed. If you carefully monitor a fresh install, you readjust the compression until the drips just stop when at rest or reduce the drip to one a minute when running. It isn’t rocket science. A little water in the bilge helps keep it clean as it gets bilge pumped out with the crap that falls into the bilge from life aboard.
you are so right. I have had two emergency haulouts with PSS dripless seals.. one was the prev owner of my Sabre 42 and yesterday my Sabre 36 was taking on 5 gallons an hour underway running out of the PSS dripless bellows leak.. Not to mention that you need to haulout and 6 hours at $180 an hour to decouple the shaft, replace a PSS dripless, and put it all back together again.
I had the old fashioned flax and wax in my Krogen 42. worked great and nearly costless.