Belt and tensioner for $60? Damn we get screwed in Canada. Belt alone cost $45 and tensioner was $150. Anything cheaper gets shipped from the US and ends up being the same price.
This video is very informative. He isn’t kidding when he says it’s super easy. I picked up the parts today in Milford Ct, drove back home to Mass and it took me literally 25 minutes to remove the old belt and tensioner and replace with new tensioner and belt. BMW wanted to charge me $498 to just replace the belt. So thank you professor FCP Euro, you guys are awesome. Definitely buying parts here moving forward. I appreciate your video big help.
This tutorial is a great example of what DIY videos should be. This guy does a great job. This video totally gives me the information that I need to do my 320 I. Only problem with this is that it makes me want to put upgraded turbo to intercooler pipe and intercooler to throttle body pipe and new intake. But that takes money I don't have just yet. LOL Anyway keep the great videos coming. FCP Euro is the way to go!
It was a very quick and easy changeover thanks to this video. I only needed the large 16mm socket, the e10 with the 6” extension, and 1 ratchet like you said 👍🏼
I’m about to change my girlfriend’s tension belt on her 2015 320i this weekend and this guy made everything super clear… I’m confident I can get this done in about an hour or less thanks to this video!!! However I opted for the Gates tension belt over the Continental since Gates also makes the pulley….
Just did this and it took me less than 15 minutes. Most difficult part about it is relasing the tension to get the belt off. (pretty difficult at least on mine.) Other than that was such an easy install thanks to this vidoe. Old belt was seriously frayed on the edges.
Awesome video! Extremely helpful! I just completed this job (06.18.23) and ran into the same problem with the 16mm hex bolt as others have described. The bolt actually sheared off. As a result, I had to physically push the tensioner in towards the engine with both hands. Luckily, you only need to move it a few mm before you can pull the pin out. If the tensioner doesn’t move with a 16mm socket, I would suggest stopping and try to manually push the tensioner.
@@streetlamp1337 I pushed on the lower part of the arm near the wheel itself. It takes a good bit of force to move. If you have someone who could pull the pin out while you use both hands to push, that would probably be best. Good luck.
Thank you! This video was very informative. I has the charging malfunction warning pop up, and I stupidly went ahead and changed the battery because I thought that was the issue. I popped the hood after the warning remained just to find the belt has failed. Pulled a good 10 years out of it. I ended up just changing the belt and used a metal bar to loosen the tensioner.
Thank you. I just ordered this for my 2015 328 GT. My engine is getting a bit of belt whine at 50k miles. Hoping this will solve the problem. Fingers crossed. Update: That did the trick! I'm cheap, so I re-used the old bolts. I think that's fine as long as you don't mangle the heads and they're not corroded. As a side note, I discovered a small amount of motor oil in the bottom of the silencer. Hoping that does not indicate a turbo problem.
Great tutorial as always, on my N26 F30 I noticed today thay my belt is squeaking when the engine shuts down for auto start/stop...is that normal? I usually have it disabled accidentally enabled it today. Belt/tensioner maybe have 100 miles on it
6k1003 means it is a 6KP1003 with 100.3cm, right? I have seen people selling 6KP0990 and 6KP1000 which are 99.0cm and 100cm. They are just a tad different in length and I believe they work too. Anyone who have used them please confirm. Also, can the pulley alone by replaced? If so, part number or sizes?
I need to replace the belts on a 2015 X1 xdrive28i, which has a power steering belt. I ordered the belts and tensioner from fcpeuro, but I need instructions on how to replace the PS belt. Thanks!
Can this cause a weird smell ? Like something is burning .. My car smells like something burning and the only thing I've found wrongs is this being lose .😢
I have a squealing when engine is on low RPM and goes away as the car is under load. Replaced the belt and tensioner. The squealing went away but came back 2 weeks later.
You will certainly want to inspect the belt and make sure no leaks are contaminating it. From there it would be recommended to remove the belt and check any of the remaining components that could be causing a noise (AC Compressor/Alternator Pulley).
No way to get just the tensioner pulley? VW said the same thing for my car, but I found a Gates pulley that was the same size and had the same bearings.
i have a e84 x1 this job seemed easy till i got to it and there’s the a/c compressor belt in the way i can’t really get to taking it out because there’s too much things on the way anyone have a video that i can get guidance from ?
Anyone ever had the 16 mm nut on the tensioner to relieve tension completely come off like my socket ate it was able to snap the pin out just before the wrench took it and everything is in place now but like how would I ever get that off now
Hi FCP Euro, I had an issue with the 16 mm on the INA tensioner (Gates). The 16 mm broke off the tensioner during the install because I wasn't able to rotate it clockwise to remove the pin (right at 11:13 in the video)? Should you simply be able to pull out the pin when pulling clockwise?
@@tacballa Thanks for the reply and the update! I rounded out the nut trying to flex it forward like this video but another video showed me that all that force might not be necessary since theirs didn't flex like this one in order to pull out the pin. I ended up rounded out the 16mm nut on the pulley tensioner b4 I realized I didn't need to flex it that hard. Luckily, I had just enough thread to push it forward to pull out the pin. It was still a struggle.
@@streetlamp1337 @fcpeuro I too have rounded out the 16 mm nut on a new tensioner, as well as snapping off the nut on a second tensioner. I put the old one back for now, but still want to put on a new tensioner. I am leary about spending money on a third unit. I was able to move the original tensioner just as you see in the videos. I know that the whole arm is supposed to "swing" clockwise, which was actually easy to do with the old tensioner. But even focusing very hard trying to move the tensioner arm and not "turn" the nut, still made two units unusable. Any additional hints from anyone on how to move the bar as easily as he does in the video? I am using a 17" breaker bar with a 3/8 socket for the 16 mm. The first unit I bought was from FCPEuro and not sure whether it would qualify as a failed unit give the "nut" broke off.
My F34 2.0D x-ddrive 190KS (60,000km) started “chirp noise” on start and also occasional squeals when engine cold for a few seconds. Faulty water pump, tensioner/pulley, and consequentially worn belt, the whole set changed (INA, bosch belt). Still same noise, changed the belt from bosch to continental, still noise on start…changed crankshaft pulley (corteco) and less noise on engine start, but noise still there, now seems to be mostly when the engine is warm. Any ideas? th-cam.com/users/shortsk1me9JgzLD4?si=2l2Qz37y5RHppvL9
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This dude should be a professor at BMW academy if they have one, LOL. tutorials are crystal clear
Thats why G is our BMW Guru
Needed this , dealership wanted 200$ just for the belt , got the belt and tensioner for 60$ and took me 10 minutes,appreciate you guys
Belt and tensioner for $60? Damn we get screwed in Canada. Belt alone cost $45 and tensioner was $150. Anything cheaper gets shipped from the US and ends up being the same price.
Hey where did you get that kit for 60.00?
@@richg9448 rock auto had it actually
That is awesome that you were able to research this & DIY. I know how it is to have the dealership tear your head off for very simple fix.
@@joepalooka4720which tensioner/part# was it do u remember?
This video is very informative. He isn’t kidding when he says it’s super easy. I picked up the parts today in Milford Ct, drove back home to Mass and it took me literally 25 minutes to remove the old belt and tensioner and replace with new tensioner and belt. BMW wanted to charge me $498 to just replace the belt. So thank you professor FCP Euro, you guys are awesome. Definitely buying parts here moving forward. I appreciate your video big help.
Thx for this video,, The shop was trying to charge me $400. I paid $21.99 for the belt,, watched this video and did it myself. Much appreciated.
This tutorial is a great example of what DIY videos should be. This guy does a great job. This video totally gives me the information that I need to do my 320 I. Only problem with this is that it makes me want to put upgraded turbo to intercooler pipe and intercooler to throttle body pipe and new intake. But that takes money I don't have just yet. LOL Anyway keep the great videos coming. FCP Euro is the way to go!
It was a very quick and easy changeover thanks to this video. I only needed the large 16mm socket, the e10 with the 6” extension, and 1 ratchet like you said 👍🏼
So much easier to install the belt first then the tensioner. Easiest swap ever. Spent more time getting tools together and cleaning up then wrenching.
I’m about to change my girlfriend’s tension belt on her 2015 320i this weekend and this guy made everything super clear… I’m confident I can get this done in about an hour or less thanks to this video!!! However I opted for the Gates tension belt over the Continental since Gates also makes the pulley….
Just did this and it took me less than 15 minutes. Most difficult part about it is relasing the tension to get the belt off. (pretty difficult at least on mine.) Other than that was such an easy install thanks to this vidoe. Old belt was seriously frayed on the edges.
Excellent work, Nathan!
Awesome video! Extremely helpful! I just completed this job (06.18.23) and ran into the same problem with the 16mm hex bolt as others have described. The bolt actually sheared off. As a result, I had to physically push the tensioner in towards the engine with both hands. Luckily, you only need to move it a few mm before you can pull the pin out. If the tensioner doesn’t move with a 16mm socket, I would suggest stopping and try to manually push the tensioner.
Mine is not budging. How and where did you grab to push on?
@@streetlamp1337 I pushed on the lower part of the arm near the wheel itself. It takes a good bit of force to move. If you have someone who could pull the pin out while you use both hands to push, that would probably be best. Good luck.
@@58phaser Did you do it with or without the belt on?
Thank you! This video was very informative. I has the charging malfunction warning pop up, and I stupidly went ahead and changed the battery because I thought that was the issue. I popped the hood after the warning remained just to find the belt has failed. Pulled a good 10 years out of it. I ended up just changing the belt and used a metal bar to loosen the tensioner.
If you are having trouble understanding this beautiful lecture, I will be shocked. Nicely done and thanks
Just did mine took about 15 minutes super simple and you explained it very well so again compliments done very well sir.
What was the problem with yours old one?
Thanks to FCPEURO! They were terrific to work with. They’re sending me a BMW tensioner at no extra charge. You guys are the best!
He made everything so clear and simple and explained why everything is used just so clear
😎
Thank you...saved me $300. A 30 minute job if you take your time. 15 minutes if you are a pro.
Happy to help, that's what we're all about.
Excellent explanation. This video was very informative and after watching, I changed the bet with tensioner in a jiffy.
This guy is just awesome! Was going to send the car to bmw, now doing it myself, thank you so much
That is what we like to hear, Tariq! You got this!
N20 cooling system flush/ cooling system refresh or at least water pump/thermostat? Really appreciate these, thanks!
Thank you. I just ordered this for my 2015 328 GT. My engine is getting a bit of belt whine at 50k miles. Hoping this will solve the problem. Fingers crossed. Update: That did the trick! I'm cheap, so I re-used the old bolts. I think that's fine as long as you don't mangle the heads and they're not corroded. As a side note, I discovered a small amount of motor oil in the bottom of the silencer. Hoping that does not indicate a turbo problem.
Successful belt swap,. Thank you for this video! Used flat head screwdriver and 16mm wrench.
Nice work!
Like many of us are saying sir.
Thank you very well explained and showed steps very well.
Thank you .
Great video. I just hit 80k on my F30 so I’m ordering the kit. Thanks Gareth!
such an excellent video..took me 20 minutes,,Great job !!!!!!!!!
Thank you! Just changed it
Please add tools list with link to buy in each video
Great tutorial as always, on my N26 F30 I noticed today thay my belt is squeaking when the engine shuts down for auto start/stop...is that normal? I usually have it disabled accidentally enabled it today. Belt/tensioner maybe have 100 miles on it
Great video man ! Can you guys also do a coolant expansion tank replacement mines is broken and I want to change it but I don’t know how ..
I love the simply belt layout. Now, how do I get to it on the B48 powered mini cooper s? lol!
Great video, super easy to follow. Got everything installed. However, car now starts and then shuts right off. Any ideas?
Hi Brett, you may want to double-check and ensure nothing was left unplugged after the belt service!
Great job on your videos. Keep up the good work.
you folks are awesome...Ty
Do I need 3 need mounting bolt? Or can I use the old bolts
Just did mine. Thanks for the video.
When someone takes their car in to get this done will the shop know to replace the tensioner as well as the belt?
6k1003 means it is a 6KP1003 with 100.3cm, right? I have seen people selling 6KP0990 and 6KP1000 which are 99.0cm and 100cm. They are just a tad different in length and I believe they work too. Anyone who have used them please confirm.
Also, can the pulley alone by replaced? If so, part number or sizes?
Great video and thanks for the step by step
for the x1 it’s a different process there’s a stretch belt from the a/c compressor that’s in the way that has to be taken off
Thank you for the heads up, Jorge!
Excellent, clear instruction! Thanks!
You guys are amazing!
wow lot of space there compared to a n52
Good recording, good explanations...
I need to replace the belts on a 2015 X1 xdrive28i, which has a power steering belt. I ordered the belts and tensioner from fcpeuro, but I need instructions on how to replace the PS belt. Thanks!
Any updates
why 6pk1003 if the recomended is 6pk1000?
Thank you!
Can this cause a weird smell ? Like something is burning .. My car smells like something burning and the only thing I've found wrongs is this being lose .😢
I have a squealing when engine is on low RPM and goes away as the car is under load. Replaced the belt and tensioner. The squealing went away but came back 2 weeks later.
You will certainly want to inspect the belt and make sure no leaks are contaminating it. From there it would be recommended to remove the belt and check any of the remaining components that could be causing a noise (AC Compressor/Alternator Pulley).
Im confused where is your intake box vaccume line?
Degetul 1 trebuie ținut apăsat tot timpul?
Hello, have you the diy for an F31 330d ?
My problem came with taking the locking pin out for some reason I can’t get it out
what did you end up doing?
Is it same for the diesel f30 320d
No way to get just the tensioner pulley? VW said the same thing for my car, but I found a Gates pulley that was the same size and had the same bearings.
Is it the same for 2016 bmw 535i?
This belt being off will it cause my car to keep dying out and the battery not staying charged also power steering is hard
Absolutely.
Do you recommend changing the harmonic balancer (crank pulley) with this?
No, unless there was a issue with the crank pully
i have a e84 x1 this job seemed easy till i got to it and there’s the a/c compressor belt in the way i can’t really get to taking it out because there’s too much things on the way anyone have a video that i can get guidance from ?
19 Nm or 9 Nm?? My Bentley Service Manual say 9 Nm
Anyone ever had the 16 mm nut on the tensioner to relieve tension completely come off like my socket ate it was able to snap the pin out just before the wrench took it and everything is in place now but like how would I ever get that off now
Would this be a faulty part or user error it seemed to me to not be very complicated move pulley to the left well pushing down to the right ?
awesome!
Belt installation part tricks me 😢
Does this apply to N26 engine as well?
The general idea remains the same!
Q: is the tensioner bolt a one time used only?
Hi Aldrich, that is correct and they come included with the kit on FCPEuro.com.
@@fcpeuro very nice! Thank you!!!
Hi FCP Euro, I had an issue with the 16 mm on the INA tensioner (Gates). The 16 mm broke off the tensioner during the install because I wasn't able to rotate it clockwise to remove the pin (right at 11:13 in the video)? Should you simply be able to pull out the pin when pulling clockwise?
Waht did you end up doing?
@@streetlamp1337 I ended up using the old tensioner and just installing the new belt. Been driving it for the past year without any issues so far
@@tacballa Thanks for the reply and the update! I rounded out the nut trying to flex it forward like this video but another video showed me that all that force might not be necessary since theirs didn't flex like this one in order to pull out the pin. I ended up rounded out the 16mm nut on the pulley tensioner b4 I realized I didn't need to flex it that hard.
Luckily, I had just enough thread to push it forward to pull out the pin. It was still a struggle.
@@streetlamp1337 @fcpeuro I too have rounded out the 16 mm nut on a new tensioner, as well as snapping off the nut on a second tensioner. I put the old one back for now, but still want to put on a new tensioner. I am leary about spending money on a third unit. I was able to move the original tensioner just as you see in the videos. I know that the whole arm is supposed to "swing" clockwise, which was actually easy to do with the old tensioner. But even focusing very hard trying to move the tensioner arm and not "turn" the nut, still made two units unusable.
Any additional hints from anyone on how to move the bar as easily as he does in the video? I am using a 17" breaker bar with a 3/8 socket for the 16 mm.
The first unit I bought was from FCPEuro and not sure whether it would qualify as a failed unit give the "nut" broke off.
My bmw started making this squeaking noise today. My heart dropped when i first heard it🥲
Legit! The stealership tried to charge me $620 usd. Bought the parts for like $70 took 30 min. EZ
Legitness dude.
My F34 2.0D x-ddrive 190KS (60,000km) started “chirp noise” on start and also occasional squeals when engine cold for a few seconds. Faulty water pump, tensioner/pulley, and consequentially worn belt, the whole set changed (INA, bosch belt). Still same noise, changed the belt from bosch to continental, still noise on start…changed crankshaft pulley (corteco) and less noise on engine start, but noise still there, now seems to be mostly when the engine is warm.
Any ideas?
th-cam.com/users/shortsk1me9JgzLD4?si=2l2Qz37y5RHppvL9
Thank you!!!