I've watched a lot of repair videos and this is hands down one of the best - quick, informative, and great visual(s). Really appreciate all of the 'little' pro tips and tricks. Please keep them coming!
hi Alfredo, yes, solares is a good option and you can use it in the same way we did here. Solares can sometimes be a bit less durable, but the convenience is making up for that.
awesome video... when you say at 4:10 that it is not a "structural part" of the board so no further carbon fibre reinforcement needed , where would a "structural part" of the board be when you would need to reinforce with glass/carbon?
Thanks! I would say if it's near the foil box, or on the tail or nose, which take a bit more beating. or on the rail apex especially the rail in front of the foil tracks in smaller boards take a lot of stress.
Hi Marloes, It really depends on the size of the crack/hole and where it is in the board, if it is in a non structural part, like in the video, right on the deck, and it's small, say, upto 3cm then we usually don't bother. For bigger repairs, yes, we would add carbon or fiberglass for sure. but that brings other issues, and here we just wanted to show w quick fix so you are back on the water soon. We will do a video on bigger repairs this year as well!
@@appletreesurfboards Nice! Quick and easy :) But if it would be a small repair on the nose (let's say 2 cm) , would it be OK to fix it like this as well, or would you use fiberglass in that case?
thanks! It's just to give you something to sand smooth. if you also ass q-cell to the last layer, it can sometimes be crumbly and small bubbles can happen. just epoxy gives a smooth finish to sand.
If you did hit a hammer right before you went out for an epic session and took on water in the board. How long should you let the board dry? I’m letting water drain out now out ding. Small puddle below. Let sit for a few days?
Hi! If it's one of your boards, you will only have to wait until it's dry to touch. the foam does not take in water. If it;s any other brand, I would not go into the water at all :)
Putting smaller amounts of epoxy using a pencil or match and stirring it into the hole, you work out the air bubbles and save yourself a second day off the water
Hello, I have major damage to the underside of my Jazz (airplane trip). Where can I have the board repaired? I would like to have it done professionally. I live in Germany. Greetings Michi
Hi! We don't really have an advice for a repair service in Germany. but any surfboard repair shop should be able to do this. if in doubt send them this video. We are also working on more repair videos for bigger damages.
@@mrein007 yes, it will, but it's not as strong as doing it as we show in the video. If you take care and go thorugh all the steps, you can get good results with Solarez as well.
if you mix too little, it's shit and you have to mix more. also more epoxy is easier to mix and easier to get the ratio between resin and hardener right. We try to use as little epoxy as possible, but in the past we have made the mistake of mixing not enough, which is really worse.
This repairs shall be done only with a foam which is waterproof. It shall not be done on EPS foam. The reason is that the epoxy mixed with microballon may not be waterproof anymore.
Good point. If you do it right, and remove enough foam under the surrounding glass/carbon, it should not be a problem at all. The annoying thing with EPS is that is can blow out air when heated slowly, or suck in when cooled. this causes air channels in the epoxy when it cures. Covering the repair with plastic, as we show here drastically reduces this channeling and makes the repair watertight. If still in doubt cover in glass, but even with EPS this is usually not needed in these smaller repairs.
@appletreesurfboards yes, for Eps foam it is usually better to do it when temperatures goes down to avoid gas expansion due to temperature increase (during the night for example) and to use slow epoxy resin, to avoid temperatures increase due to the reaction between the resin and the hardener. If a vent plug exist on the board, always open it before repair. I would still recommend for EPS at least a hot coat on the top (better a layer of fiber) Anyway, this is not really the topic of this video as your boards are not using EPS foam 🙄
I've watched a lot of repair videos and this is hands down one of the best - quick, informative, and great visual(s). Really appreciate all of the 'little' pro tips and tricks.
Please keep them coming!
thanks Philip! we are working on many more videos this year.
Best boards ever. Thank you for the tutorial.
Thank your for your kind words!
Is solarez a good solution?
hi Alfredo, yes, solares is a good option and you can use it in the same way we did here. Solares can sometimes be a bit less durable, but the convenience is making up for that.
awesome video... when you say at 4:10 that it is not a "structural part" of the board so no further carbon fibre reinforcement needed , where would a "structural part" of the board be when you would need to reinforce with glass/carbon?
Thanks! I would say if it's near the foil box, or on the tail or nose, which take a bit more beating. or on the rail apex especially the rail in front of the foil tracks in smaller boards take a lot of stress.
Awesome repair video. But just wondering... is there no layer of fiberglass needed on top of the repair? Of even a epoxy hot coat?
Hi Marloes, It really depends on the size of the crack/hole and where it is in the board, if it is in a non structural part, like in the video, right on the deck, and it's small, say, upto 3cm then we usually don't bother. For bigger repairs, yes, we would add carbon or fiberglass for sure. but that brings other issues, and here we just wanted to show w quick fix so you are back on the water soon. We will do a video on bigger repairs this year as well!
@@appletreesurfboards Nice! Quick and easy :) But if it would be a small repair on the nose (let's say 2 cm) , would it be OK to fix it like this as well, or would you use fiberglass in that case?
@@lllllemonade You will be fine without.
Hi. Great clip. thanks. What exactly is "micro balloons" is it fiber glass powder?
Hi Saar, It's much lighter than glass powder. It's sometimes sold as Q-cell as well. Google it and you will find it.
Use Solarez it requires no mixing and hardens only when exposed to sunlight within minutes!
Hi there! Thanks for the tutorial, one question only, don't you need to add an extra coat of just resin (no qcell) on top of the qcell mix?
thanks! It's just to give you something to sand smooth. if you also ass q-cell to the last layer, it can sometimes be crumbly and small bubbles can happen. just epoxy gives a smooth finish to sand.
If you did hit a hammer right before you went out for an epic session and took on water in the board. How long should you let the board dry? I’m letting water drain out now out ding. Small puddle below. Let sit for a few days?
Hi! If it's one of your boards, you will only have to wait until it's dry to touch. the foam does not take in water. If it;s any other brand, I would not go into the water at all :)
Putting smaller amounts of epoxy using a pencil or match and stirring it into the hole, you work out the air bubbles and save yourself a second day off the water
Hello,
I have major damage to the underside of my Jazz (airplane trip). Where can I have the board repaired? I would like to have it done professionally. I live in Germany.
Greetings Michi
Hi! We don't really have an advice for a repair service in Germany. but any surfboard repair shop should be able to do this. if in doubt send them this video. We are also working on more repair videos for bigger damages.
@@appletreesurfboards Hi,
thanks for the info. Where should I send the photos?
mail is out
Hi
I can also use the: SOLAREZ UV Cure Epoxy Ding Repair Resin ?
@@mrein007 yes, it will, but it's not as strong as doing it as we show in the video. If you take care and go thorugh all the steps, you can get good results with Solarez as well.
Lo que no entiendo porque hace tanta mezcla para pequeñas fisuras
if you mix too little, it's shit and you have to mix more. also more epoxy is easier to mix and easier to get the ratio between resin and hardener right. We try to use as little epoxy as possible, but in the past we have made the mistake of mixing not enough, which is really worse.
Yeww epic guys! Fix it up and get it back in the water in no time...
This repairs shall be done only with a foam which is waterproof. It shall not be done on EPS foam. The reason is that the epoxy mixed with microballon may not be waterproof anymore.
Good point. If you do it right, and remove enough foam under the surrounding glass/carbon, it should not be a problem at all. The annoying thing with EPS is that is can blow out air when heated slowly, or suck in when cooled. this causes air channels in the epoxy when it cures. Covering the repair with plastic, as we show here drastically reduces this channeling and makes the repair watertight. If still in doubt cover in glass, but even with EPS this is usually not needed in these smaller repairs.
@appletreesurfboards
yes, for Eps foam it is usually better to do it when temperatures goes down to avoid gas expansion due to temperature increase (during the night for example) and to use slow epoxy resin, to avoid temperatures increase due to the reaction between the resin and the hardener. If a vent plug exist on the board, always open it before repair.
I would still recommend for EPS at least a hot coat on the top (better a layer of fiber)
Anyway, this is not really the topic of this video as your boards are not using EPS foam 🙄