Best Carburetor Mod - Vapor Lock & Inconsistent Performance Issues CORRECTED (You'll Never Go Back)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- By far the best thing I ever discovered some years back - incredibly easier to dial in a carb when the air fuel ratio is consistent day to day!!! PARTS LIST WITH LINKS BELOW !!!
Quick Fuel return regulator - amzn.to/2Fy7O7D
Regulator Carb Mount FORD style - brotherford289@gmail.com
Carter 72 GPH Electric Fuel Pump - amzn.to/2IJVqn2
Moroso Return to Tank Cut In - amzn.to/2IJOOoT
Affordable wideband o2 gauge - amzn.to/2Nbbr9P
no weld o2 sensor bung - amzn.to/2Xqtmxt
90 degree 3/8 NPT by 3/8 Barb - amzn.to/2xlErkq
Carb studs - 2.5 inch cut to length - amzn.to/321U3aV
all other inquiries - brotherford289@gmail.com
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I'm 65 yrs old, & been a mechanic all my life. You don't know how much I enjoy learning from someone such as yourself. THANK YOU
I'm 15 I've been working on everything since I was 8 Lol
Notice how I said working on stuff instead of fixing 😂
I'm 52 and own a shop and I am very impressed with this young guy ! Don't see it very often anymore. Great video!
I'm a tinkerer, I love listening to this guy. Very articulate, great vocabulary, communicates complex subjects in an easily understood way. That's a rare skill. Bet he has a super High IQ.
I simply love the fact you always say what exactly you're driving or where the parts came from and what year and model they are. It's like you know exactly what I'm thinking! Great video btw!!!.
i just try to ask myself "what would i want someone to do"? glad they are helpful !!!!
@@ThunderHead289 i need to get you up here to help me with the 390 in my 76 shortbed f100. You just have that touch. Can make anything run like a sewing machine. Do you ever get up to the northern part of South Dakota. I enjoy watching your videos. Very clear and easy to follow.
Parts links are in description above 👆👆👆
join us at facebook - (thunderhead289 carb & engine: tech/tune forum)
parts links above as I always try to do
Very nice looking truck , under the hood looks really impressive . I Enjoy the channel . I know as much about carbs as a 3 year old does about quantum physics , but I'm getting a better understanding as I get older and watch videos . Keep it up , great job
Why do you need a regulator on the return?
I thought you would need the regulator before the carb adjustef to about 6psi. What psi do you set the regulator to after the carb?
I love your videos! Im watching from Okinawa Japan. Semper Fidelis!
@@mattmiles9779 Im by no means an expert, however i think with his setup if the return would freeflow back to the tank he would lose his desired pressure to the carb.
Great info, our drag car was basically un-tuneable all last year, changed dist, carb and manifold several times with no luck. After watching this I went out and checked all the fuel lines and bam, the return line is plugged. Going to run all new lines and see if that was our main problem, thanks for your wisdom and great vids.
Well I'll be dipped....great video
Old truck, a couple of good dogs, and farm dirt road... don't get much better than that. Really good carb info...thanks Luke. Look forward to Galaxie tearing up the pavement.
me too man. this weekend ill be back at it!
The dogs are so well behaved too. My dog would jump out of the back as soon as I stopped.
I love the way you actually demonstrate the problems or benefits with gauges and rig stuff up to show us how and why things do what they do. I’ve learnt so much from these videos after many years of doing it wrong or not properly understanding. Thx Luke for taking the time to explain and demo this stuff.
I am not well versed on the carburetor gospel, you said return regulator. How do you adjust the fuel pressure going in to the carburetor? Did I misunderstand something? It happens all the time. Great video.
Never could figure out why my deadhead system was so inconsistent no matter what I changed or how I tuned it. Now I know why thanks. Steel drivers and carbed vehicles forever!
It was a long road 5 years ago - out the o2 gauge in and saw what it was doing, researched and tested different things, and finally about 4 years ago I conquered the inconsistent carb.
I’d drive that f100 in 100 degree Arizona heat with no fear
@@ThunderHead289 Speaking of Arizona....lol. Luke, thanks for another great video. I’ve got a 79 Bronco with a 351M and a 70 Mercury Monterey with a 390 and it was driving me crazy that they would idle differently depending on the day here in Az. It ticked me off that I followed your carb tuning videos and had both of them idling great on the nice somewhat cool day that I set them up on, then summer arrived. . This video cleared up what is happening. I want to put a return system in both of those vehicles but I have a stupid question. I’ve never dealt with a fuel return regulator before and am curious on what to set the pressure at on the return regulator. If I’m reading the description of the regulator correctly on Amazon, the pressure is adjustable. Forgot to mention I’m running Edelbrock 600’s on both. I know you’ve heard it before but thanks again for all your videos you put out. They really do make a difference to everyone following you! The added bonus for me is I’m a Ford guy..lol
Thank you very much! I'm rebuilding a 1964 Galaxie, it has a 302 in it. So all these how to's have really helped me since I'm relatively new to fixing up old cars.
That’s great man, if I can even help one person not struggle through all this like I have had to, that’s good enough for me
had a gas leak soaking throught the base connector gasket and i ended up buying a new 3236 dgev carb and did not replace the base plate for the manifold. The new carb worked fine with no vacuum/gas leaks for about a month then it all of a sudden srarted leaking gas through the new gasket in the same place it did before. What can i do to permanently fix this issue? When the gas leaks obviously its idling poorly and basically breaks down until it starts again. I need to correct this asap. Thanks for your help. Any suggestions would be great. Truck is sitting there in my garage waiting on me until i can fix this issue and all i want to do is drive it. Nobody in my area knows anything about weber carbs or wants to work on them so i feel like im on my own. Thanks
Good stuff here! This is something I never really gave much thought about let alone doing with my 65 Impala. Good job.
Another fun video Luke, love how you break it down and make it easy to understand!
i appreciate that - i feel like it was still very cryptic on my part unfortunately - its difficult to fully explain in such a short time frame!
Love the truck,
I've got a 73 F100/390fe/C6 and I drove mine in H.S too back in the late 80's.
Sniper efi Installed on mine though.
Looks like I’m sitting in your classroom today brother!
Yo dog....! 😁👍 I'm an old and I mean old master auto mechanic, a licensed aircraft mechanic and a self taught engineer, (no I'm not bragging!) I think a fuel return line on a carbureted engine is a fantastic idea. One I "should" have thought of myself, damnit, great job man!
I wish I could bring my 69 F 100 to you. I'm struggling with this issue. I've tried different mechanics and even sent them videos and none of them are taking this fix seriously it seems or they dont know how to do it, even with the videos. Hey do you still have those thicker carb gaskets?
Great video Luke. Gives me an idea for my f150
On my 94 f150 i have had 2 of the carter pumps die on me. Keep a spare pump in the cab.
all electric pumps tend to fail deadhead style - the fuel cools the vane pump/motor. when you are at idle, that pump is hitting the internal bypass where the same fuel is in the pump and it gets hot and burns up.
iv never lost a pump since i went return - lost them a lot beforehand
@@ThunderHead289 i have a holley 12-803 bp that is a bypass regulater, youve seen it in my video "efi to carb 300 l6" these new old stile pumps just aint made very well. The carter pump we are using was made for dodge power wagons in the 40s.
And i do run my truck hard, i did a 18 hour run hauling steel for my welding compane and never shut the truck off.
I would have liked to see you turn the valve back on and watch the AFR stabilize once it started getting cooler fuel. I have heard of some guys having issues on fuel injection vehicles where the big high flow high pressure pump heats up the fuel and returns to the tank enough that all of the fuel gets hot in the fuel tank.
i wanted to, but for the sake of video time i didnt - i could honestly talk for hours about carbs and ignition timing. maybe i need to just start doing live tech talks
Love seeing the ole Blue 74'! Can't wait on you getting the Galaxie500 going... I bet my 71' Galaxie500 will be on the road first :) Great Videos and always a Thumbs Up!
Challenge accepted 💪
Who the hell has the balls to thumb down Luke? A Nash fuelie fan, I'm sure.
Scott, The "Thumbs Down" come from Snowflakes!
My 77 F150 4x4 did not come with fuel return system. But the new carburetor does. Do I just block it off?
No carb has a built in return line - you must have a divorced float bowl dual feed
cool dude.............. Everyone go racing
Luke, you're one of my favorite car/truck guys. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Take care, my friend
I just bought an '88 Buick Electra Estate Wagon that's carbureted! It's so nice!
Sweet truck, informative video and thank you for sharing. Send it!!!
Agree that the percolation/vapor issue hurts carbureted AFR because carbs are static (vs. EFI adjusting fuel mix dynamically). I'd like to see Air/Fuel after you re-opened the return line, but your vids are great & have been a help for me designing my fix. Fuel sits in carb's bowls at atmospheric pressure, so E10-ish fuel still boils in there at 110-115F. So my solution was to reduce carb temp since it usually sits in an underhood environment of 190F or more (radiator exhaust, headers, engine heat...) So keeping fuel cool in the lines UP to the bowls helps, but keeping the *bowls* cooler (via an enclosed cold air box from manifold/phenolic-spacer junction up to hood) plus ensuring fuel in the lines is as cool as possible. This airbox is similar to Cobras' "Turkey Pan" solution under their scoops, so I built something similar under the hood of our Z, and fed it with two 4" ducts from the nose of the car, and lined it with Reflectix insulation. Result is carb bowls stay at ambient air temp vs. under-hood being 190F plus. I've seen some vids showing electric fuel pump and return system is heating the fuel similar to a mechanical pump. EFI's advantage here is that it keeps the fuel at 40-50 PSI all the way to the injector which then sprays it into the intake tract, whereas carbs have the fuel at atmospheric pressure in the bowls (and before that, either 7-ish PSI in the line after a mech pump or 40-50 PSI in the line after an electric pump). Thanks again for great vids and intelligent analytical commentary.
I can tell from reading this that you are very intelligent.
It is definitely a losing game - you can only do so many things. Fuel just doesn’t need to be what it was back in the day because at 40 to 50 psi, it resists a phase change quite well.
The bowls are the biggest issue - why someone hasn’t designed a pass through carb for the aftermarket world, I don’t know.
Some European cars bypass right through the carb itself like the datsuns.
This seems like a great design feature to me.
Hey Luke it's Eric with the green Mopar from the Power Tour, I really enjoyed chatting with you at Martinsville! Thanks for being so polite and talkative and thanks for all the great vids like this. Luckily with my massive hood scoop, aluminum radiator, 160 degree T stat and air gap intake I never seem to have vapor lock issues. However I will be installing a fuel/air ratio gauge soon now that you've helped me understand how easy they are to install.
Hey Eric, enjoyed chatting with you. They are indeed a great piece - I’d like to act like im some wizard, but I can always beat myself with the gauge vs without.
I linked the AEM unit in this video along with the no weld bung - really good piece for the price
Thats right , I replaced my cam driven mechanical fuel pump with a holley red electronic fuel pump, custom fuel rail and I never run out of fuel ;) makes for easier starting too.
I know you are a fan of the summit carbs. Sounds like its running great for you. Have you noticed any issues with the mixture screws and the internal threads for them on the carb body at all? Thanks for posting more pratical and very easy to understand tech info.
Hey Luke do you have a straight video on just fine tuning a 4bbl edlebrock carb I've got one that's not quite rite on a Chevy 350 bb lmk ty love the videos 👍🏁🏁
if you have facebook, join the thunderhead289 group - its for troubleshooting and tuning. im very active there and work with people a lot
@@ThunderHead289 appreciate it my friend but not on Facebook don't believe in it think it's all trouble another story another time and not enough liquor in the world lol but if you got an email address maybe you could gimme a hand👍
A chevy 350 big block?
@@nathanbutler8240 that's what I said??
@@Americantrucker01 you said a Chevy 350 bb
If the regulator is after the carb will the carb see full preshure?? i dont understand yours because my regulator is before the pump And how do you feel about return style fuel filters?
It’s the same way injection setups are done on any production car
My 73 is still a mechanical pump but it had a factory return fuel line. Above the fuel pump before it gets to the distributor area there was a bypass that runs back to the tank. hell if I know if it still works lol
The oldschool factory return stuff that started to hit the scene was manageable, but still didn’t quite correct the issues - my 84 mustang with a hole in the hood and factory pump return was resilient, but still couldn’t handle traffic in 90 degrees for a long time.
Returning after the carb really does the trick - the bigger your electric pump, the better in this case
In a perfect world women would use carbs only and they wont be tuned up lol
You said in the video that the truck is built for fuel mileage and driveability, how does it actually do on mileage?
FordTough79 I can get 21 mpg out of it if I don’t go over 65 👍
I’ll take that for an antiaerodynamic truck. Front is literally concave
runnin a 950 on my 281 02 saleen speedlab mustang, run a return line from my FPR back to the tank so i don’t get vapor lock and the fuel wont stay that compressed so it won’t get hot
Have you ever done a 2bbl swap on a 200 inline 6? if so what set up would you recommend?
Tripp Corbin Clifford performance. They have adapters to mount a 2bbl on the single hole intake log.
I have a 73 F100 390 with Edelbrock manifold and 4bbl carb. Would this set up work? Now that I put long tube exhaust it is touching return fuel line and I think I need to relocate that line or something . Any advise?
This looks really interesting. If you could put a diagram of how this is all hooked up on your Facebook page, that would be awesome. Might be able to get the 460 up to double digit mpg!
ill remember to do that here shortly
Did this ever get posted? Thanks!
I have a 1968 Mercury cougar with it's original 302 block and mechanical pump.
I love the reliability of a mechanical unit & I've never set up a return line on anything else I had previously.
What will happen if you install a return line system but retain and mechanical pump?
How does it decide when to return fuel if I did?
I've had for over 38 yrs. a 69 swb f-100. It's a great looking truck. I'm keeping it. It originally had a 302 V8, l replaced it with a low mileage 300 6cyl , but l can't get it to idle, replaced gaskets. The engine came out of an 83 van . l just can't get it to idle, after a while it vapor locks and l'm stuck until it cool down, which could be hours. I just can't get it to run right, afraid to go any where in it and be stranded. Could you help me out? Thanks.
Goddamn oleThunderHeadHawkins might not always be right but......aint NEVERRRR BEN wrong somebody else testify
Just sub to your channel, I live in Conrad, Iowa. My hobby air cooled vw bug & buses. Just picked up a 1986 Chevy C10 for general use around the house. It has been sometime since i worked on old chevy, need to rebuild the holley carb. just want it to be a good safe runner not a dialy driver, like your info on carb.s
Thanks my friend - low and behold, I actually have a 67 beetle that was a barn find type deal. Body is really good for Iowa - I need to get it going. It’s just tucked away in a storage unit!
@@ThunderHead289 My e-mail dmlvette@yahoo.com any question or need for where to get best deal on parts contact me, if someday you decide to sell it give me a call always some how can find room for one more, I have a few parts around too. They are a good Iowa summer car..
You should absolutely start an Amazon store with a put together kit for this and make a video explaining how to to do it! I have a 1978 Ford Ltd and I would love to learn how to install this to mine!
When I was a kid my father had a Ford with a 351 in it that would diesel. I remember once we went to pick up some relatives at the airport and we came back 45+ minutes later the car was still sputterin' away and just as we got about 10 feet from it the thing died. Hilarious!
That’s insane!
Book of world records worthy!
Good job Thunder, most people don't have a clue, they will look at a throttle body and call it a carb. Nope, nada no way prince. But fuel can make or break most rigs performance. Trying to make fuel squeezers out of a say 750 holley or afb carter just doesn't happen but it can be made to run good and that will save money
Hey, I should have thought about this earlier..wood like to buy my 62 f100.. 302 85 mustang...no accidents..needs -door trim, bushings, paint job, idler arm, some other minor cosmetic stuff..it's actually a handsome truck.. .why I do this¿? ..u have MUCH more experience than I...u woOd dO gOod with it ...that's all ... If I had the money I do the same as you with that my truck . Excellent information.. sincerely D.T.M.
Hadn't even thought about this mod...well it's on my list now. Thank ya sir! Great video as well.
You should do mods for a 4.6 32 valve and lets see the horse power you can get out of it not the mustang 4.6 but like a crown Victoria 4.6 the 99 and up 😁😁😁😁
Ironically I have an 09 crown - sadly, in our last little flooding incident, it drown and damaged the engine.
One thing I can say about them from watching the ignition timing is that under throttle, they pull out a ton. It drops all the way to 8 degrees. So much power is left on the table, the stock tune is designed for longevity, not performance
"'74 F100, had this thing for 12 years since back in high school..." -- you don't know how lucky you are bro :-). Great video, info and tips. So many people trash on carbs because they just don't know how to work them, or live with some imperfections. Carbs 4 life!
Hard to live with carbs when you get wild temperature and humidity changes throughout the week when you are up north. EFI just makes life a little easier.
@@eaglewarrior8707, i know what you're saying, as I used to live in Massachusetts. But I have a modern car if I want that kind of reliability ;-)
@@ThrottleResponse Hope you got it dirt cheap.
Very nice idea. I have used this before. Hey, that huge antenna looks familiar. Are you in Homestead FL?...
I have a 1986 Ford Full Size Bronco. 300 Inline 6, 4 Speed and the last year of the Carburetor! Although mine Had a Feedback Carb that was a pain in the A$$. I swapped it out with a 1980 one barrel Carter carb without that feedback crap to the computer. Runs like a Dream!!!
Like your videos. Where do you get the Lamda gauge and sensor?
i added the link !!!!
thanks for the video in your service love the dogs
Moroso 65385 fuel return kit for the filler neck.
That’s literally right in the parts lists with a link
@@ThunderHead289 apologies
I would love to see a diagram of this.
Jacob's Ladder Tree Tech same
Like your Chantal. Have a 1974 Ford F100 my Papaw bought new. When he died he gave pro my dad. When my dad died he gave it time. While dad had it he took the 390 out and put in a Jasper rebuild 302. Ran good however this past year it has given me nothing but trike. I’ve put new plugs new hei Jegs distributor and wires. New voltage regulator and ignition control module, timing chain and after new distributor retime motor. Ran good for a day since then runs one day not the next. Time after time I’ve complete timed engine many times believe it’s right. Still runs when it wants then won’t start appears to have fire and then not. Can you help.
Good enough i like it hold on to it forever worst decision i ever made is let my 68 go or my 84 both amazing trucks im an edlebrock fan but fords do like hollys
It doesn’t matter either way - have a bit more adjustability in a Holley, so that makes them more angry if not set up correctly
Damn.. 85 F150, mechanical pump only. I was about to drill in my tank to set up a vapor return line. That’s a no go without an electric pump?
Cool videos man! I'm getting ready to revud my 78 f100s 302. Great tips I'll he tuning back in often lol
A cool day in Arizona is about 100degrees...lol I really should upgrade the 2100 to a 4100 in the 71' F100 @ 302cid. Well, one day maybe.
You should go through what all the switches are for one day.
The 4 switches on the aluminum angle bracket just turn on and off my speakers. I have speakers in the truck bed for when I used to take the lady to the drive in theatre in high school. The red safety switch deal is for the fuel pump, and the one beside it is for my high idle solenoid - which is kind of custom
Hey, handsome, I've watched so many of your videos my eyes are starting to cross. Not even a Gearhead, LOL. What's that song that plays at the end of this particular video? I really like it. Fans, don't jump on me if it's a famous country song I don't listen to country music😙
I have a 460 big block with a 750 Harley carb I have no return on my carb and my fuel pressure keeps on jumping from 6:00 to 9 1/2 when I put it in drive and hit the gas it shuts off do you think of return line will help that
Would this work for a FE 360 2bbl stock? Also what kind of hedders are you running? I live in tucson AZ and it gets just as hot in phx az
Good information to know! My ‘69 Jeep Wagoneer w/ the factory optional Buick 350 V8 has a return type fuel system, but oddly enough Buick cars with that engine did not have one until around ‘75-76.
Looks like your one dog is part cattle dog?
I enjoyed the video and i dig the steel drivers tune.
I battled vapor lock issues on my 460, it's in 75 f250 supercab 4x4. I ended up blocking the heat riser and adding a coolcarb plate to fix the issue. I already had a Carter mechanical pump and a regulator set to 5 psi with a 3/8 feed.
This set up has been very reliable and smooth. I'm sure the af is a bit unstable during long idle periods but this truck usually is moving and not sitting idle for more than a few minutes at a traffic light.
When I first started brainstorming the vapor lock issue, I wanted to do an electric pump with regulator and return, but I'm picky and wanted an in tank unit that would run a future efi system. This was more $$$ than I was willing to invest at the time.
So for now I enjoy the simplicity of the mechanical pump but will upgrade to electric in the future.
By the way I have made close to 13 mpgs with this set up on a 140 mile road trip, no od and a small slide in camper in the bed. Q jet carb.
I missed my '76 Ford F100. I have an '86 Ford F150 4x4 with 302 and 6" lift and size 33 tires. Right now my carburetor works great with no issues.
I had a 74’ f100 with a 390fe in it. My favourite truck ever
Hey Luke,. that Fuel Ratio Gauge set up you running, Will it work ok with Todays 10% ethanol Pump fuel?.
Glad I found your vid. I'm collecting pieces for a 350 to power my 28 Ford... I like the idea of engineering a return feature from the start. I've got a Eldebrock 1406 waiting for me to saddle it up. Thanks!!
It will work great for you!
I had to do something very similar on my Camaro. In South Florida with the hood down, vapor lock in no time. I had to make a return like like yours but I could not find a suitable regulator with a return so I used a nitrous nozzle to cause a restriction in the return line. Glad I'm not the only one "hacking" a carburetor!
What about quadrajets. Don't they automatically adjust the air fuel ratio?
That’s a nope 👍
No, not like you are thinking.
i have a question , i am lost ! i have a 1941 Chevy 3100 with a 454. i wanted to run a rear fuel cell along with the stock gas tank ( behind the seat). i have a electric fuel pump (holley) i went to a return fuel regulator and returned it to the fuel cell in the rear of the truck. i was having issues with my fuel regulator gauge saying 6lbs of fuel pressure but the gauge on the carburetor would read 3lbs then after driving would not register at all. i then took the rear tank out went to a dead head fuel regulator and i still have the problem. the truck still runs with the fuel pressure at the carb being 3 and sometimes goes to 0. the regulator and the gauge on the carb never match and the regulator is on the firewall . i even placed a one way fuel valve thinking the fuel was feeding back to the pump and the line was being drained of fuel. i was having issues when it was hot with the bypass regulator. sometimes the bypass regulator would actually send so much fuel to the fuel cell return line that it would over flow the rear gas tank . i have taken the carb out , checked all lines, replaced all lines and i cant figure it out . at this point deadhead fuel regulator only the in the cab tank running and it s running good .
Awesome vid as usual :) What's your opinion... I have a 84 Dodge D100 2wd with a 318 (91) and a 904 auto. I have an A833 4 speed laying around that I was thinking of putting in it. Would you stick with the 904 or go ahead and put the 4 speed in it?
I’m usually of the school of thought that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it - if it’s a go d runner andnyou enjoy it, I’d keep it the same!
Well, ye olde 904 has some leaks but you make good points as always. Darn it! I was hoping you'd say do it so I could blame you for the leg cramps in traffic :)
Awesome love this just found your channel from a freind here in the Uk. I have a 74 long bed custom.
would this be necessary in a system on a 351c with a mechanical pump? I know that you said you need an electric pump and that a mechanical pump is variable. So does that variability make it so it is not necessary for a return line? It has always seemed to run just fine cold or hot with little tuning required. I have the engine pulled from my 71 f100 right now (it was an earlier swap) and i'd like to know for when it goes back in shortly.
It’s not that it makes it so that it’s not necessary for a return line, it just makes it so that you can’t run one in the typical manner.
With a mechanical pump, line pressure would be too low at idle - once driving, pressure would come up. This variable pressure makes for a variable float height.
Mopar made a fuel filter with a return port for mechanical systems - I know one came on the 79 Córdoba.
That’s a good half way point between a full blown return system, and not having one at all.
Iv'e got 2 tanks for the return line to run back to any ideas ?
Secondary tank selector valve, except on the return line. Piggy back the control signal to the second selector
@@ThunderHead289 Have you seen the $ 8 cure for vapor lock on uncle Tony's garage channel
Thank you for giving a realistic solution to the downfall of most carburetors👍 I have a 67 Mustang convertible with a 302, 289 heads edelbrock 600 carb, Heddman headers and a pertronix pro billet aluminum distributor. It runs decent but at times I do get the lag and rough idle that drives me nuts. This gives me a great option to smooth it out, THANK YOU for the great suggestion!!!
Thanks for posting these videos. I am a newb when it comes to this stuff and I am learning a lot. I will definitely be running an electric pump/return line on my project car. It seems like a no brainer. It was neat how you turned the valve to simulate the older mechanical pump system and show how crappy the AF ratio got. One question though, have you ever put a heat shield plate under any of your carbs? If so, did it provide additional consistency to the tune or was there not much benefit?
So just to be clear the set-up you've got on your truck is called what? An air/fuel return/regulator system?
is a return line better than using a suplementary electric fuel pump to run with the mechanical pump ..reason im asking is because my sending unit doesnt have a return nipple so its wat easier for me to just add a inline small electric pump ...will i be ok with that , cause lately with ethenol enriched fuels vapor lock has gotton real bad
What's wrong with rubber lines? Why dont you like them?
Because they can melt, split, and just are generally more likely to fail.
Especially over time, they get hard, crack at hose clamp connections, and can leak fuel on a hot engine - and you know how that’s going to end!
@@ThunderHead289 ok thankyou ..so you run all hard lines?
Why is the regulator after the carb feed? Why does the return need a regulator?
Howdy,
That is the best of the best design as it performs two great functions.
Being a return specific regulator, and takes whatever is not needed to maintain the pressure setting and sends it back to the tank, so it’s a variable volume return which means you will always have consistent pressure.
Having the return after the carb is the best location in that you are bypassing the whole entire fuel supply line which is minimizes hot fuel/vapor lock related issues to the highest degree
Gotta do this to my F350. Cool system!
Speaking of Carbs have you ever tried the Power Blast Plate? and if you have what do you think of it did it work? If you have not heard of it here is the site thompsonperformance.com/
MCGA 2020🏁
So could I just use vapor canister line for a return line on my 78F100?
Think this carter pump will keep up with a 480hp quick fuel 750?
Use the force Luke
Wouldn’t that be the ticket - bet I’d have a better 1/4 mile time 🤔
Glad I have a return system on mine!
nice to see videos that are not BS . Very good...always . Carbs forever .
have you ever added a offroad kit to a carb? dont think you have since you mostly do road vehicles. good upgrade that keeps your truck stalling when offroading good mod too
john dowe
Sir, what does the off road kit consist of? I’m going to swap my ‘89 ford over to carb and I don’t know anything about it
Thanks in advance for your reply
@@papasteve215 spring loaded float needle, a cross over vent tube , It basically goes into the vent holes and moves them up so when you're on a incline it doesn't flood yer motor, sone guys put a fuel pressure regulator so they can lower psi from 5psi to 2 , i heard about that helping but i dont run that setup. You should do some research into it, it's really helpful. I think the cross over tube is the cheapest and easiest mod you can do. I have a 87 f150 that I almost burned cause I was hauling ass through a county road and all the bumps made gasoline splash out the vents and it basically caught fire and burned the carb, glad I had plenty of water with me.
john dowe
Thanks sir. I need to look deeper into that before I jump off into this swap over. I used to turn wrenches for a living but that was a long time ago.
I guess the good thing about swapping from the injection to carb is that there is already a return line back to the tanks.
@@papasteve215 yup, it aint too complicated. if yer using an electric pump you might want a regulator to adjust fuel pressure. if its an old tank with a lot of crud in it you can run triple filters and remove em as the become clogged
john dowe
Yeah. I’m using an electric pump and thankfully the old boy I bought it from had put two new tanks on it. I’m ordering a pressure regulator tonight. And I should have pretty much everything I need.
Again, I appreciate you taking the time to reply back.
Y’all take care.
Probably the reason my 300 with a carter seems to run really smooth right after filling up with fresh gas. ha.
Whats ur fuel economy like in this minty piece for ford treasure? Lookin to do a similar build
18-20 basically the same as a modern truck.
@@ThunderHead289 holy that's really good
I just picked up a 68 F100, 352 3 on the tree, and I've been watching your videos far before getting it. It's got a stumble and loads up when i let off the gas then get back on it, so I'm guessing timing. But your vids always help me diagnose that sorta stuff!
I would start with the basics - set the carb transfer slots to a square, put the vacuum advance on the ported vacuum port, and advance the ignition timing till you have your desired idle!
My old Datsun 720 seems to run better on 100 degree days compared to cooler weather.
Great video, very well explained. Thanks for sharing.
Mr Thunderhead,
I have a 1980 Ford Bronco 302 with a New Process NP435 Granny Low. I’m not sure what condition the motor is because it dies after driving it about 10 minutes. I’m going to Pick a part to grab a 94-95 351 roller, and am going to swap it. My question is can I take a picture of my existing engine compartment and can you point out if I have a fuel return or not? I’m guessing my engine is vapor locking
Thx!
Rich
I would think twice about swapping an engine if you can't figure out if your carb has a return line