Hi Joe, Great information on the G366. If your interested, try a work saw style pipe or even an expansion chamber pipe. I find pipes that work well( matched to individual build) tend to lean the saw out a bit vs a can style muffler. The pipes seem to be more efficient with fuel and deliver a broader power curve. I have found my G366 with a work pipe likes an exhaust outlet size of about .750" to .800" . Good luck with your build experiment!
Nice work putting the G366 together Joe. You may want to try a different muffler before messing with that carb. I had the same problem with one of my saws doing timed cut testing with muffler mods. I thought for sure the wide open straight out the front muffler like you're running would perform the best, I also had to have the high jet cranked out 4-5 turns. A 7/8" I.D. pipe outlet in a stock muffler out performed it by quite a bit and the carb tuned perfect at around 1 1/4 turns. Actually thinking back the stock OEM unmodified muffler may have out cut it. It would have been interesting to compare the results of my test on a dyno as well, to see if it mirrored my test cuts. Something to consider, keep up the good work.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 1 1/2" total with 1/2" sticking out of the muffler. You will get a little more having 2 pipes but I prefer just the one on the clutch side or a combination of the pipe and factory outlet like for example a 372xp muffler with the factory outlet on top with the pipe coming out the clutch side upper corner of the muffler, as this saw is one of my felling saws unless I can put a port on the side of the muffler on the flywheel side with a deflector directing it straight forward (can be done on most Stihls) I prefer not to have one on that side. The wide open port out the front allowed debris right in without a screen, it burnt the bark on the trees, and was crazy loud. I tested these different mufflers on several saws 372xp, 372xp x-torque, and 390xp ported and stock with the same results. Together with properly sharpening your chain a well executed muffler mod is a great improvement to any saw.
@@230e4 THAT'S about the measurements I use and how i do it on a can muffler for myself; wondering if I was the only one that thought that way. There's two camps on the scavenging effect and reflecting gasses back into the cyl from the muffler side.; I have good luck with it. I could also argue that it raises dynamic compression.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1I'm glad you are on this path as well. I have done quite a bit of testing on this not only to increase power but fuel usage is a concern for me especially on days that I hike into a stand and just fell trees all day, I would rather not carry more than 2 gallons of fuel with me, preferably 1.
@@230e4 Right!! I have another theory for finding the perfect length pipe using an old method I learned in my tractor-pulling days. Now that I got my dyno going, I can test my theories with articulable results. I can't seem forget how an Ironhorse pipe works (plenty loud though); and, when you get it right, you actually turn the carb screws IN from a can muffler. Started doing pipes on can mufflers with good results and have a hairbrained idea or two to try which will attempt to keep from disrupting the bounce-back inside of the can. Thanks for discussing with me!!
I’m interested to see the carb fuel mods. I have a 585 with a 592 top end and I can’t give that thing enough fuel to get it to 4 stroke below the limiter. It’d be nice to be able to as point of reference for the fuelling.
Been piddeling and machining on the clones a bit here and there. One thing I have noticed is or think I notice is that the volume of the crank cases may be different. I have a clone 460 and a ms460. I ported the clone close to OE#’s mostly flowing and widening ports, deleted the gasket, trimmed the squish band a wee bit, ported the piston, and piped the muffler for a fun fire wood build. When I cut with it I was needles to say underwhelmed; waset much better that the OE. So I swaped cylinders muffler and pistons. OE top end on Clone and clone top end on OE bottom I didn't swap carbs. The Clone ran about the same but the OE saw woke up like you would expect it to. I haven't done it yet but is was going to take the tops of and fill the crank cases to the top with diesel and pore it into a measuring cup and see if that was the difference or not. Good stuff on the build I enjoy your content. You have made saw builders encyclopaedia of mods and power out put. I hope to be able to give back some day in appreciation for your time and work.
Hi 👋 Joe, I’ve got a couple thoughts. First, does the crank case volume differ much between saws ? And second, can you extend the intake with a spacer or a velocity stack ?
How high an RPM can you take that blue saw? I've heard of 18,000 max in gas saws, upwards of 20K with Alcohol saws. When will the Crank/Bearings let go? I'm just learning how to port and am curious. Great Channel, love the content!
That was so much work you did on that saw i know you were expecting the performance to be better. But for some reason not sure why i have never seen anyone with a removal head ever do much better than a normal base cut chamber cut and port on paper it looks like a recipe for a screamer . My buddy was a top Yamaha mechanic as in one of the best in the country his motors won races all over he never built a motor with more than 150 psi compression he said 2strokes can't get out of there own way after 150 it hurt flow and reliability.
Good saw builds. But it is not all about the horsepower you need torque as well. Like 1/4 mile drag race you need the torque to pull you out of the hole. The carb not adjusting well I would try to JB weld the intake and start the timing at 75*then go from there that will also bring up the torque.
366 sounds great, that last up cut looked fabulous. Enjoining the content with these 3 saws, thanks for sharing.
Nice work joe
I love that you show us the learning curve
Stay with that one you’ll get it
Awesome work!
That Poulan ripped well. That Blue one, just the tiniest bit more.
They both looking great buddy!!! I wanna see the Poulan some more. 👍🏻
Need to try a programmable ignition system
Love it Joe! Awesome job. Can't wait to see the next episode.
Great work Joe!!
Man that runs good Joe.. guess I gotta do a head for mine
That 366 rips!!
Hi Joe, Great information on the G366. If your interested, try a work saw style pipe or even an expansion chamber pipe. I find pipes that work well( matched to individual build) tend to lean the saw out a bit vs a can style muffler. The pipes seem to be more efficient with fuel and deliver a broader power curve. I have found my G366 with a work pipe likes an exhaust outlet size of about .750" to .800" . Good luck with your build experiment!
I'd say it's a little faster than the Poulan. That thing's bad 🔥
Nice work putting the G366 together Joe. You may want to try a different muffler before messing with that carb. I had the same problem with one of my saws doing timed cut testing with muffler mods. I thought for sure the wide open straight out the front muffler like you're running would perform the best, I also had to have the high jet cranked out 4-5 turns. A 7/8" I.D. pipe outlet in a stock muffler out performed it by quite a bit and the carb tuned perfect at around 1 1/4 turns. Actually thinking back the stock OEM unmodified muffler may have out cut it. It would have been interesting to compare the results of my test on a dyno as well, to see if it mirrored my test cuts. Something to consider, keep up the good work.
@230e4 Mind if I ask how long(ish) the outlet pipe is/was?
@@HayChaffandSawdust1 1 1/2" total with 1/2" sticking out of the muffler. You will get a little more having 2 pipes but I prefer just the one on the clutch side or a combination of the pipe and factory outlet like for example a 372xp muffler with the factory outlet on top with the pipe coming out the clutch side upper corner of the muffler, as this saw is one of my felling saws unless I can put a port on the side of the muffler on the flywheel side with a deflector directing it straight forward (can be done on most Stihls) I prefer not to have one on that side. The wide open port out the front allowed debris right in without a screen, it burnt the bark on the trees, and was crazy loud. I tested these different mufflers on several saws 372xp, 372xp x-torque, and 390xp ported and stock with the same results. Together with properly sharpening your chain a well executed muffler mod is a great improvement to any saw.
@@230e4 THAT'S about the measurements I use and how i do it on a can muffler for myself; wondering if I was the only one that thought that way. There's two camps on the scavenging effect and reflecting gasses back into the cyl from the muffler side.; I have good luck with it. I could also argue that it raises dynamic compression.
@@HayChaffandSawdust1I'm glad you are on this path as well. I have done quite a bit of testing on this not only to increase power but fuel usage is a concern for me especially on days that I hike into a stand and just fell trees all day, I would rather not carry more than 2 gallons of fuel with me, preferably 1.
@@230e4 Right!! I have another theory for finding the perfect length pipe using an old method I learned in my tractor-pulling days. Now that I got my dyno going, I can test my theories with articulable results. I can't seem forget how an Ironhorse pipe works (plenty loud though); and, when you get it right, you actually turn the carb screws IN from a can muffler. Started doing pipes on can mufflers with good results and have a hairbrained idea or two to try which will attempt to keep from disrupting the bounce-back inside of the can. Thanks for discussing with me!!
I’ve always been more partial to the yellow, but at this point who knows cause you build some pretty crazy stuff
Great video. Will the heat build up with unfinned head end up costing performance?
Yes, will heat up quicker and drop power. But it was built for 3-4 cuts at a time max
I’m interested to see the carb fuel mods. I have a 585 with a 592 top end and I can’t give that thing enough fuel to get it to 4 stroke below the limiter. It’d be nice to be able to as point of reference for the fuelling.
Nice work but I like the yellow saw better. The blue one will come around.
Been piddeling and machining on the clones a bit here and there. One thing I have noticed is or think I notice is that the volume of the crank cases may be different. I have a clone 460 and a ms460. I ported the clone close to OE#’s mostly flowing and widening ports, deleted the gasket, trimmed the squish band a wee bit, ported the piston, and piped the muffler for a fun fire wood build. When I cut with it I was needles to say underwhelmed; waset much better that the OE. So I swaped cylinders muffler and pistons. OE top end on Clone and clone top end on OE bottom I didn't swap carbs. The Clone ran about the same but the OE saw woke up like you would expect it to. I haven't done it yet but is was going to take the tops of and fill the crank cases to the top with diesel and pore it into a measuring cup and see if that was the difference or not.
Good stuff on the build I enjoy your content. You have made saw builders encyclopaedia of mods and power out put. I hope to be able to give back some day in appreciation for your time and work.
Nice work sounds like you have a cold
I just want to see more of the jonsered ❤
Your can exhaust doesnt hold you back? That carb is huge on it. One would think itd be more than enough.
Doesnt the metering lever help the high jet adjustment? Nice build
Hi 👋 Joe, I’ve got a couple thoughts. First, does the crank case volume differ much between saws ? And second, can you extend the intake with a spacer or a velocity stack ?
It has a short v stack. Not sure how different the case volume is
Holy smokes, those are screamers ☄️
If you decide to put the 366 on the shelf. Could always auction it off with the proceeds going to a charity?
How high an RPM can you take that blue saw? I've heard of 18,000 max in gas saws, upwards of 20K with Alcohol saws. When will the Crank/Bearings let go? I'm just learning how to port and am curious. Great Channel, love the content!
So goes the build to the winners circle. 🏆
That was so much work you did on that saw i know you were expecting the performance to be better. But for some reason not sure why i have never seen anyone with a removal head ever do much better than a normal base cut chamber cut and port on paper it looks like a recipe for a screamer . My buddy was a top Yamaha mechanic as in one of the best in the country his motors won races all over he never built a motor with more than 150 psi compression he said 2strokes can't get out of there own way after 150 it hurt flow and reliability.
Been sayin that for YEARS! Oh well , lead , follow or get the f outta my way 😂
Good saw builds. But it is not all about the horsepower you need torque as well. Like 1/4 mile drag race you need the torque to pull you out of the hole. The carb not adjusting well I would try to JB weld the intake and start the timing at 75*then go from there that will also bring up the torque.
That muffler on the G366, what’s it off of? It doesn’t “appear” to be a Stihl style muffler. It reminds me of one from an Echo or Husky.
Dandy saws
Where’s the chain brake?
Out of the way lol 😆
👍🏻👏
You got a couple rippers there! Good job. You sound like hell. Get well soon.
To be honest I like 👍 the double peak on the graph 📊 I think you are a whisker away from unlocking 💪 more
Looks like cottonwood, a poplar.
Keren boss
You don't learn by not doing. Shoot for the moon on the third saw.