Replacing Ruined Fuel Tank on a Jaguar XJ6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มี.ค. 2022
- Today I replace the right side fuel tank and sediment bowl in my Series I Jaguar XJ6. The fittings on the new fuel tank did not match the tank which derailed this project for months. Watch my last video where I ran this car on the dyno to disappointing results: • Disappointing Ignition...
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This Week With Cars - Episode 0216
#BarnFind #Jaguar #XJ6 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
For your acceleration issue, your car being a N American spec XJ6 has a pollution device called a Secondary manifold. It is basically a second set of throttle butterflies inside the secondary manifold (directly behind the carbs) that are closed during idle forcing the air fuel mix to take a circuitous route around the second set of butterflies. IF this linkage isn't properly connected to the linkage on the front carb it could be just sitting closed forcing air/fuel to take the long way around - bad for acceleration obviously. The secondary butterfly linkage can be removed but you need to wire them in the open position. Definitely check that - PO's like to mess with it.
Also, your car originally had a vacuum retard distributor that gets it's special ported vac signal from a port on the bottom of the front carb that only operates at idle. Assuming the vac capsule still works, maybe a PO connected the vac capsule to full manifold vacuum - the ignition would always be significantly retarded. Check that as well... BTW you can safely remove and block the vac line from a vac retard dizzy with no decrease in performance.
I'm the proud owner of four S1 N American Jag XJ6's right now and many others in the past.
You’ve really got the bug… well done !
Thanks for this! You are very right about the filler head getting completely stuck in the neck of the tank! I tried to remove one of these 'from above' on my 1969 XJ6 and eventually just gave up because I was afraid of damaging the tank or the paint work. I think the truth is that if you want to get the filler head out he basically have to remove the tank itself.
- Steve, I noticed you had the car lifted on a two post lift...... If I remember correctly the rear subframe with the axle etc is attached to the body with four rubber "V" shaped isolators. If you lift the body and the mountings are old they are liable to come adrift and the whole lot will drop down and be left hanging on those trailing arms............
Yea, lots more videos, please. My all time favourite car.
Just retap the threaded insert for something available. Drill and tap larger than the current. Problem solved. Same with the bespoke outlet pipe. All manner of threaded bungs are available. You can make it whatever you want.
may want to try retapping the old tank first just to make sure it works.
We in Europe can't afford to do hands free fuel filling. At just under €2 per litre here in Ireland at present (approx $8.40 per US gallon), one tends to concentrate on pumping the bare minimum rather than filling the tank!
Why can't Americans just fill the car with fuel WITHOUT having some sort of device to help lazy people?
BTW, in Australia we are currently paying AU$2 per litre.
Can never understand why Americans complain so much about the price of "gas" when they only pay about HALF of what the rest of the world pays!
We used to have these hands free nozzles in the UK but I suspect Elf and Safety had views.
You probably wont get a full tank using the filler that way anyway. XJ s tend to want slow filling for the last quarter or it will click off early
S1 fuel system threads are whitworth, if that helps. EDIT::::: Might be off a mile there! Just did the similar work on my Series 3 and the threads were UNS! Not UNC, not UNF… UNS. The return pipe in particular was 9/16-24 UNS.
XJ Jags have some of the best body lines. I glad you’ve made another video on this car and hope you make more.
I love your videos. Who knew Iowa was a mecca for old British cars?
Hi there i part these out and sell the rubber gaskets. I clean them with vinegar to delete rust it takes a few days soaking. Have a look at your vacuum advance for power loss. Common problem . Thanks i will subscribe
Another thing to check re: acceleration issue - the fuel vapor recovery system from both tanks is pretty complex traveling up into the left side C pillar and then down under the car to the engine compartment charcoal canister. They get blocked pretty easily which could cause a lack of venting to the tanks. This would cause a vacuum in the tank creating poor fuel flow. I would just run a hose from the new tank's vent port as a temporary vent until you find out if that system is okay.
I restored a s1 xj6 years ago and I'm sure they don't have a vapour recovery system.. its possible the very last of the s1's in the US did but I don't think so.
@@jeffball6108 Sorry that's simply not true. Beginning with engine #7L6043 all N American spec cars have them. I know that this car is listed as a 71 but it depends when it was sold. All 72's and 73's have them at the very least.
The inner distributor shaft might be frozen (corroded, rusted) preventing your mechanical advance from working as the car accelerates. I had that issue on my 70 XKE. It accelerates much better now.
I did this four times on two XJs. It drove me nuts. This is extremely useful information.
My Dad had a 2.8 itr series1 just a pig but it would finally wind out to 100 mph, my Grand dad had a 4.2 series 1 and it was a rocket. I had a US 4.2 series 3 and it was back to a pig with just 180 hp . Great video as always.
What an ordeal to get the tank filler caps off. I had many 10 hours in the right side but the left was really bad.
I had to drive out the front pivot pin to get the chrome part off.
Then I had to make an adapter that would hold onto the aluminum stuck part. It is tapered so I used my lathe to taper a piece of pipe and had to cut out 2 small sections to avoid two places on the aluminum.
I then took a 6x6 post that was around 5 feet long and nailed a small platform on the end so it could stand upright. I used it as a base for a lever that attached to the adapter I made for the aluminum part.
I took a 9 or 10 foot long 2x4 and rested it on the fulcrum that was the 6x6. One end chained to the adapter, the other I tied a weight of around 40 lbs on it.
There is sat for almost a week while spraying a can of liquid wrench around the filler cap.
Twisting motion was the key. Eventually it came loose.
I then threw it over the hill, not before stomping up and down on it for a good 5 minutes. lol
That was very interesting, I knew you were having problems but I didn't know how crazy things had got. Speaking as a UK citizen I can't believe someone here would not be able to help you. Unfortunately I am not a Jaguar expert although we did often use the rear axles on custom cars, all chromed up! Great video Steve and yes I would like to see more progress on this car. 👍
Great film Steve, you never let us down! Thjat type of Jag was a proper Gentlemans Carriage, a great looking motor.
I had fuel guage problems on mine, I changed to sender, to no avail, the problem was the changeover switch contacts, you can check this, if your left tank guage works, by swopping over the wirs on the switch, left to right and visa versa, if its the switch, your right guage will work, and the left will stop.
It looks like there are some useful comments already giving potential solutions for the power issue. Like most of us here, I can't wait to see you resolve this issue and see this car performing like it was meant to.
That type of fuel fitting is quite easy to make and I suspect that's why no one produces those parts. The threads might be BSP, always good to have BSW fittings on hand too!
There are two British pipe threads, BSP and BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel). I recently ran into it when trying to find a replacement oil pressure switch for my Rover P6. Finally found a cross reference to a Land Rover part and got one from a local outfit that works on vintage LR's.
You might like to know that when that Jag was introduced at about the time yours was made you could sell one secondhand for over the list price. If you could get a new one you could make a quick profit. Where I worked in a bank we enabled at least two customers to do that by supporting the purchase. It’s pretty rare not to lose money as soon your new car leaves the showroom
PSA: I have a series 1 xj6 and just replaced the fuel tank with the same one in this video. The threads for the fuel lines are 3/8" and 5/16" COMPRESSION THREADS! I used a compression thread to MIP adapter then screwed a hose barb on and ran 3/8" rubber fuel line to it. Plugged the 5/16" hole with a compression plug.
I was unreasonably excited to see the colour of your car...it matches my 1976 XJ6C
I am looking forward to more vids of this Steve!
Try and contact tyrells classic workshop and ed china workshop diaries for more info. They are both workshop owners in the UK. Tyrrel did his apprenticeship at Rolls Royce and works on many earlier model exotic cars, including Jaguars.
Nice to see the Jag back
I'm betting that plug is BSPP thread - British Standard Pipe Parallel. I ran into that on my Rover P6 which was on, of all things, the oil pressure switch. Since it had that thread, *no other* switch from any domestic automotive application would work since both the thread pitch was wrong and they were all taper thread anyway. I cross-referenced it to a Land Rover part and found a reasonably local LR dealer that had one.
Thumbs up Steve.
Thanks.
Hi Steve - years ago when living on Long Island, a mate of mine who collected Jags used Broken Kitty for parts - have you tried them? Best cheers, Bob.
This fantastic you’re working on this again
I’ve been following another XJ restoration in the UK on HARRYS GARAGE
It might be worth contacting him as many of your issues you’re finding would be similar
He used a Jaguar restoration specialist
They work on XJs a lot
Time to clean your dash - covered in dust!
Adam over at the YT channel "Living With A Classic" works on old Jaguars and is currently working on the same fuel tank. Looks like he is going to have to replace it as it is leaking. He's a Canadian living in Sweden. He might be a good resource for info.
A lot of people in Australia used to put V8 Chevy or some Holden V8
OUCH ! My Series 2 XJ6 has the same right hand fuel tank leaking issues. I don't drive it often or far, so I just use the left hand tank. Do you think it's because yours and mine are the same color that we have the same problem? 😊 As always, thanks for the video ... I'm going to keep this one in my Jaguar file.
We used to have hands free pumps in the UK, don't know why they were discontinued.
Same here in Australia, about fifty years ago. I think it was a safety thing.
What a sweet ride
Steve you need to buy a metal lathe. Then you can make your own parts. Thats what I did.
Whitworth strikes again.
Anything that can be done to this car is worth it!
love that Jag
great stuff thanks
Ok. Did a Jag tank once and the thread was a German gauge thread. Found one through swedgelock. Something like that. Been 20 years. So that’s as much as I can remember. Was not a British straight thread like I usually run into.
Hi Steve. I had a '69 4.2 in 1975 . My pay , as an apprentice panelbeater, was £19.00p. I filled both tanks every week , that cost £15.00 .p !! Not much left over but l had such a ball driving around in my beautiful Jaguar. Incidently , l could get 11gallons in each tank !!! Do you think it could be a faulty gearbox ? Thanks Steve.
The problem with the threads is strange… if the tank manufacturers are just making Series 3 tanks then both threads should be ‘standard’ for that and presumably fit that ‘special’ pipe that you managed to track down. But they should also supply the pipe and blank plug that are needed as an adapter kit, it makes no sense otherwise. God knows what the plugs you bought from Texas are supposed to fit.
Hi,
Pay attention between the different threads, you have British Standard Whitworth (BSW) and British Standard Fine Thread (BSF) >>>Q.E.D.
For the acceleration issue, it may simply be an oil breather that is clogged...Thanks for the show!
There is also British Standard Pipe (BSP) , *and* British Standard Pipe Parallel (BSPP).
@@mescko Hi,
Yes indeed and above all not to be confused with NPT stands for National Pipe Taper from USA...
Enjoyed the video
I like your production methods. FAST MOTION so one can see how it comes apart. BRIGHT LIGHTING so we can see. EXPLANATIONS and SOUND QUALITY.
My Maserati 4.24 had a fuel issue once: hoses were exchanged, then the pump. It drove and died after several kilometers. 3 times. Then finally i was called and the problem was found: there was salt in my tank. Lots. The tank was exchanged for free. After that it ran fine. The tanklid can be opened from the outside with a screwdriver. Normal way is to open it from the inside. Maybe somebody did not like the previous owner.
British pipe threads are different than American pipe threads. The metric tube fitting situation is a real mess. Good luck!
That'll mostly likely be a BSP ( British Standard Pipe )size, they are NOT metric measurements as some may think. BSP while similar to American, NPT but NOT the same here either, as you've no doubt found out.
I have had some luck in contacting ( in person ) a well stocked hydraulic hose and fitting supplier, I'd almost bet that they can and would help you.
@@regsparkes6507 Pegasus Racing Supply will probably have what he needs. They support all the British built road racing cars in the USA.
@@chuckschultz7028 Then I hope he reads your comment here.
@@regsparkes6507 There is also BSPP (the extra P is for Parallel)
@@mescko I thought I heard somewhere that the designation 'BSPP" is now obsolete, have you heard that too?
Steve, are those strange threads in any way Whitworth threads? I’ve been doing the mechanical restoration on a 1965 Morris Minor and have been told repeatedly that it had no Whitworth nuts/bolts or threads yet I repeatedly find Whitworth hardware in strange places and the fuel tank pick up is Whitworth. I spent several days trying to figure it out before finally figuring it out.
I need fittings with both the correct threads and the correct flare. If nobody makes the fitting anymore then we will all have to modify things as I did.
British cars mostly use A/F, not Whitworth.
Does anyone out there have the dimensions of these tanks? I am building a replica Aston Martin DB5 and rear saddle tanks were used on AC cars.
I want a Steve doll for my rear vision mirror, so I con look at it every time I break down and Chanel some mechanical knowledge,,lol,,
That thread is a1/2" UNS
Did you ever manage to find out what the problem was?
Hi Steve, have you tried contacting XJ Restorations in the UK? It's the company featured on Harry's Garage that did his XJC V12 transformation.
Now I'm absolutely desperate to see that old girl returned to full power and accelerating past all those anonymous cars on the Interstate.
Looks like the engine is only getting enough fuel to reach 2700 rpm. More fuel is required. Could be a partial blockage or a weak fuel pump.
Your acceleration issue is probably related to the Lucas ignition system. Reach out to The Car Wizard as he’s worked in several of these including the V12
i think hands free pumps were phased out with garage attendants.Some people were to stupid to know how to use them!
the threads were probably BSPT not npt mor metric
The problem is compounded that it is not just the threads but you have to match the flare at the end as well. If it was just a straight thread that used a crush washer it would be easy but the flare made it about impossible to match.
Where do you get parts for this car?
Lol. Answered when I actually watched the video
😎👍
Frustrating, Steve, we're used to you finding a solution, even if other problems still persist! It looks like a few commenters might have some ideas, I hope you can get this old girl running properly.
7:10 yeah, shake that nozzle real well. Every drop count nowadays :-)
I didn't want it to drip on the paint.
Looks like im buying a complete New Zealand assembled S2 LWB...one reason is good tanks...these are for my 1975-S2-SWB....my 71 SWB is identical to yours...(yours is better)..
Fuel return line that’s plugged, just a guess
There is no fuel return line this is a car with carbs.
What?
Can't believe you had so much trouble getting the correct fittings for your fuel tank. Any competent engineering workshop should be able to cut ANY thread and be able to MAKE you a part for your fuel line fittings.
An American machine shop would be able to make the plug but you would likely have to give them the thread data. If it is BSPP which I suspect it is, no American machine shop would know diddely about it, nor would I expect them to.
Nice rig I'm new to this channel, is that the V8, or could it be V12 , you sure it's not the transmission not kicking back not sure if they are carburettor, could be vacuum line eather to carburettor, or if transmission has vacuum kick down eather way wishing you and loved one's all the best
It's a straight 6.
The only engines that Jag had at that time were a straight six and a V twelve.
As far as the hesitation goes, does that still have the side draft Solexes? If so, you either need a solex wizard or a set of Webers.
HI, Just received your blog. Try DMG (DAVID MANNERS GROUP) in England. My contact is Jack Weston. He supplied me with a pipe that they commission a company to make for them. It has the bends on it and a metal braid overlay on the flexible part. The sender unit has 3 terminals whereas the old has 2. The extra on is for a low level warning light. I haven't fitted my cars tank yet so don't know about wiring it up.
I sent them an email.
Expensive nuts and the wrong size. What a hassle.
Moss Motors is terrible. Stuck in the stone ages. I'd rather buy directly from ANY spares in the UK then buy from MM.
You may try to get in touch with "richard michael owen". He and his Dad are Jaguar professionnal restorers. They know Jags inside-out.
They may help you out regarding parts or repair tips. Their work is awesome.