Nice to see an XJ6 S3 video! I’m running a rust free 1984 survivor in Germany with 22,000 original miles. I had Daimler XJ81 power front seats, front and rear butt warmers, a Daimler Double Six four passenger seating arrangement, Series 2 chrome bumpers and a ZF four speed automatic transmission installed. The car is black with Bisquit interior and custom matching carpeting. I’ve collected the most appealing interior parts from various Series 3 model years and added some dipped pieces and some chrome accents in the interior to eliminate some of the appallingly cheap looking black plastic. Although it’s my own car I’ve had for years, I’m always surprised at its beauty, when I haven’t seen it a while. Thanks for all the effort and time you put into your videos and the worthwhile entertainment you provide! Very much appreciated! By the way, I also have a genuine Time Machine: a pristine, BRG/Doeskin, unregistered November 1992 Daimler Double Six with delivery mileage (362 km). Even the original factory seat covers, to be removed before customer hand over, are still there.
@@boyfromblackstuff7859 Thanks for commenting. Yes, it was a lucky turn of events for the Daimler to come my way. I've known the car since the nineties and offered to buy the car if ever the owner wanted to dispose of it. He needed to do major work on his house some years ago and offered the car to me. However, we have been friends for decades and the car has remained in "the family" so to speak. The owner had had an official Jaguar and Leyland dealership in Germany from the sixties until the eighties and had been in good contact with the factory at the time. Many QC issues appeared on Jaguar cars specifically in Germany, as they were more strained due to the higher speeds. The man and his team worked out a number of these issues on their own, as the factory was slow to react and the solutions often unsatisfactory. At times the factory would consult with my friend's team and some of their solutions were fed into series production. In fact the factory built him a specially equipped XJS in 1976. Among other tweaks it had the four speed manual transmission from the E-Type S3.
Interesting story there,fate dictated the Daimler should fall into the hands of a person who would both appreciate its rarity considering its history and would care for it appropriately,well done. Always been a big fan of XJ series of Jaguar's,in my childhood they represented wealth and affluence. I currently run an XK V8 convertible, although it rarely leaves the garage unless the sun is guaranteed! Also Jaguar XJS V12 ,year 1989, which I am constantly working on, latest task is the Lucas Omnicell fibre optic illumination system to various elements of switch gear,so far quite challenging ,insofar as not damaging any of the veneer on the centre console in the strip down. Not supprised your friend had issues with the factory re QC in I am assuming the 1970's , having worked with people who recounted stories to me of their time in the employ of Rootes Group in Coventry and also British Steel Corporation it is no wonder the co's did not survive. Regards.
Did you know that if you remove the black top off the air flow metre you can adjust the toothed wheel inside by easing back the spring clip and moving the toothed wheel either way, to richen or weaken the mixture, ( i would mark the position of the spring clip in the wheel tooth before starting ), if you've adjusted the mixture by way of the adjuster down the hole of the air flow metre and it's still out of range, set the adjuster to the recommended turns and try the above method, BUT make sure the fuel relay clicks to it's off position. Put sealant on the air flow metre black top and fit back in place.. I'm a UK retired Jag Technician of 50 years experience, 1963 - 2011.
Jeffrey, I'm fairly sure that someone has adjusted the toothed wheel on my car. Could you point me in the right direction of where it should be as standard or is it a case of trial and error?
I don't have the set starting position, but make sure with the ignition turned on, you turn the wheel to hear the fuel relay click off. If you have a co machine, turn the wheel to watch it weaken or richen, soon as the relay clicks on you've gone to far, go back so it clicks off, Then use the adjuster down the hole, i think there was a plug over the hole.
Great detective work. You must know more about these engines and how to diagnose and fix problems with them than anyone in Sweden. Well done once again!
@@LivingWithAClassic you’d win hands down. Maybe only Sir William Lyons could beat you in the Useless Jaguar Trivia game!! Your mental checklist sure comes in handy in your garage though!
Great to have S3 on channel, most informative Adam. I would love to see more on this series. The s3 lives in a techno vacuum, where it is a sophisticated “modern” car without the diagnostics. Mechanics where i live cant or wont deal with them. Thanks again.
Great work. She sounds really healthy. My first one was a very early 1981 series 3 and it had exactly the same problem. Took ages to determine what it was. Used to stall if the steering was on full lock. Great once it was adjusted though and got better as time went on. I think it was s bit coked up but eventually cleared itself. Best car I ever had! Great video as always!
Can you make a video showing all the vacuum points/lines for the series3? I've check the net but cannot a lot of info on that. Also, what about injecting smoke into the system to find leaks, is there a safe, do it yourself method of doing that?
The wonderful XK engine had a long life. Good detective work there Adam. Need to talk the owner into having the cam covers painted. LoL. Sounds great now, looking forward to an update. Cheers.
Thank you for the video Adam. Even if S3 has a lot of info on the internet there aren't so many technical videos. As a lot of people say I think the s3 is the most beautifull sedan ever made. One day I'll have one. But for now I don't have the room. Keep doing the good work you do.
Very interesting as I have a series 3 Daimler 4.2. The idle is slightly uneven (not as pronounced as this), but this video has given me some very helpful ideas 👍
Hi Adam. Well done - another great video. I’m currently in the phase of “the more I watch, the more I learn” of getting to know how my lovely new car works. XJ Series III are indeed achingly beautiful cars - it would be the next car in my garage if I had room! Take care. Peter
Super Interesting! I have a 1982 Daimler XJ6 series 3 with the same problem - it idles fine when cold but rough when hot (to the extent that it almost stalls, and will stall if I have the air con on). I checked the spot that you adjusted but mine is not accessible, it is covered over with a metal plate/strut so I hope it has not been messed with… Would love to hear more about what work this car could benefit from !
Let me know how you get on @Jean-Pierre. I have a similar problem with my '83 S3 but won't be able to get under the bonnet of it until end of March. Another really helpful video from Adam. Let's hope the owner asks you to do more work so we can follow your progress on an S3.
@@markdpeter Hello Mark. I will as soon as possible. Weather is cold now in Canada so I don’t have the problem. I have already changed the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires and the coil. I also did the vacuum leak test but I will repeat it. I will let you know as soon as I can !
Hello Mark As promised, here is an update on my 87 XJ6 idle issues when warm. I found a leak in the conduct between the AFM and throttle body. I replaced it and that solved the “hesitation” when accelerating briskly ! I also found that the airflow adjustment screw was tempered with. As in Adam’s case, there was no plug protecting the screw and it was fully closed clockwise. I turned the screw 4 turns counterclockwise and it does idle regularly at around 800 rpm when hot (about 95-100 F). In other words, SUCCESS ! Thanks so much Adam. Your videos are very interesting and they helped me several times ! I hope this will help you, Mark, enjoying your XJ6
Wrong spark plugs can cause issues, as you know, different reach different temp etc. Also as the coil is strapped to the engine they can breakdown when hot.
I had same issue. I also had to manually adjust air flow sensor needle. I installed simple o2 gauge over voltage meter to get some idea what kind of mixture it was running. For inspection i had to make it run very lean and that caused some popping when idling, after that i made idle much richer so that i would run smoother. ECU does use O2 sensor to control mixture but not at idle (air flow sensor has mechanical switch for "idle position"). It quite messy system and with worn out engine, blow by is excessive also causing mixture problems... I also had that "bell noise" when slightly revving, timing chain tensioner needs adjusting?
Does anyone know if the XK engines changed during the s3 era? I recall years ago someone telling me that around 84 or 85 Jaguar took back the manufacturing and the engines were better built (something to do with the block or head design/materials). I now own 84 and am wondering if that’s true and which engine I have.
Nice work Adam. I have an '83 XJ6 and it is a lovely car. So very nice to drive, smooth and comfortable. I use is quite a bit in the summers. The only thing I would wish for is that it had a 4 speed automatic transmission. I think that would make quite a difference in performance, but I don't want to alter a classic.
Seen this type thing many times Adam bad adjustment if you don't know these vehicles best to leave them and consult an expert such as yourself well diagnosed all the best donny
Glad it's fixed! I'm still a bit scared of buying a car with an XK engine. Are they good, are they bad, I don't know. Yet, so many cars with an XK engine are on their 2nd, 3th engine. What is happening? Seems like the V12 or the AJ6 aren't affected in the same way.
I've never heard anyone having a question about XK longevity before- I'm also not seeing cars having been through multiple engines, either. They are not prone to breakage that would render the engine unrepairable at all. If the later ones sit for long periods of time, the head bolts corrode... but the engines are more like industrial tractor engines in their durability. I think a lot of people can't troubleshoot properly and just start swapping engines instead of repairing them or something. My E-Type has its original 54 year old engine in it and my SIII XJ6 has its original- and no hint of any serious issues. I'be been a Jag guy for decades and owned a restoration/repair for British classic cars for years and never saw a "blown" XK engine at all... only bad cores from corrosion from sitting when looking for a spare to rebuild for a race car.
Good day Adam and it just shows what tampering to such delicate stuff can do without knowing what you are doing .If i may ask you a question i bought a 1984 Jaguar Series 3 4.2 lt that was standing for more than 2 years.There was no compression but after putting some oil on the pustons and after many attempts i hot it fired up.Oil pressure gauge is very slow and lazy to register. With times it lifts up to 3 and stay there for a while. With times it drops completely beyond 0 all off a sudden. Some times it stays at 3 but when you give acceleration it drops beyond 0 again.I did a oil change and replaced the oil filter as well but without any change or success. Can that maybe be a oil sensor or something worse?The car is not on the road yet as i am still busy with rust repairs.Hope that yiu can give me guidance where to start now and what to do next.And i did not flush the engine. Only let it warm up and drain the oil.Will appreciate your assistance. Have a blessed day and keep save.
Get a mechanical (old school) gauge and screw it to the sensor location or oil galley on the block. You’ll know when you find it, unscrewed oil will leak out, not antifreeze. Research this on YT, all engines have them.
@@rossilake3430 Tank you very much RossiLake and i appreciate your help and response. Will see if i can get hold of one off those gauges and do that test.
Oh, I am very excited to see this on your channel. I hope you find opportunities to post more on these cars. I just recently acquired my first Series 3 car, and am facing a few things I am sure you can help with! :D
Sir I have the same problems for 8 years , I also tried to fix the afm screw , but it’s not helpful , my idle is “dancing “ also the engine is dancing . When I put “R” idle down then I put ac on , and is on 300. Maybe you can help me
I had the same problem and I found out it was juste the micro switch throttle switch. Just disconnect it first and then the idle will be fine. It cost me 7 £ and it’s easy to fix. Your videos are great but could you please change the music ? 😊 take care. Arnaud from France
I can’t say how many of this models I have seen in total abandon state in Marbella . At least 10 beautiful Jags o this model which is awesome. Is my dream sedan . No modern sedan is beautiful as is this .
Good job Adam.. may I suggest a spark tester and a niod light for the injectors...also if you are ever curious about how well the O2 is working and roughly the emissions controls of the ECU is doing, simply put your multimeter red lead on the signal wire of the O2 and ground lead on a good ground, and if it's running at a close stoichiometric mix, you should see it jumping between .3 to .8 volts.. you know the system is perfect when it's steady around .5 volts.
If they look old, change plugs, wires and the cap/rotor. . ALWAYS....Those coils are a problem! We should look for an alternative coil, Bosch, PS91 like on my TR-6. Dunno Adam, Love your video’s. Waiting on my AAV rebuild kit. 👍
My xj40 engine shakes quite a bit. But it runs well. 750-800rpm in idle, doesnt die in gear, even if its uphill. It also accepts gas perfectly. Driving it feels perfect I just dont get why it shakes so much. The igintion wires are already blurry to the eye from the shaking. Any idea what that could be?
sadly today the shaking got even worse in idle and especially in reverse. i can also hear it missfiring when i hear the tailpipe. sadly no code. what would you test first?
Sorry what did you say aboutvthe fuel system the fuel pump should be activated at the acc point.our 4.2 come on when the in acc position because that activatethe electrical system for starting
Great video but 1 point needs to be clarified. What you referred to as the MAF (Mass Air Flow) is not actually a MAF. In the original German it is referred to as a VAF (Volume Air Flow) but in English it is referred to as an AFM (Air Flow Meter). The difference between a MAF and the VAF/AFM is a MAF calculates the actual mass (weight/density) of the air going into the engine while a VAF/AFM only calculates a theoretical amount of air. With the VAF/AFM it doesn't matter what altitude the engine is running at or what the air temp is it will always read the same. With a MAF altitude and air temp make a difference to the calculation.
This guy with his glasses and hat seems to be a NICE guy, but he does NOT realize he is talking to people on the network, so he MUST SPEAK ALOUD to be heard and understood, but not mummbling for himself just like he is nagging about something. Moreover, when u upload the file, it SHRINKS, so the QUALITY of the file decreases,hence, the SPEAKER SHOULD SPEAK CLEARLY and LOUDLY. COMMON SENSE.!!!!!!!
What is that god awful rubber strip on the doors that not factory standard no body puts that on a jaguar the should be chrome strip that runs along the crease line front ro rear and thats it never anything on the lower part of the door . Thats ugly what are you north Americans thinking !! 😢
Nice to see an XJ6 S3 video! I’m running a rust free 1984 survivor in Germany with 22,000 original miles. I had Daimler XJ81 power front seats, front and rear butt warmers, a Daimler Double Six four passenger seating arrangement, Series 2 chrome bumpers and a ZF four speed automatic transmission installed. The car is black with Bisquit interior and custom matching carpeting. I’ve collected the most appealing interior parts from various Series 3 model years and added some dipped pieces and some chrome accents in the interior to eliminate some of the appallingly cheap looking black plastic. Although it’s my own car I’ve had for years, I’m always surprised at its beauty, when I haven’t seen it a while. Thanks for all the effort and time you put into your videos and the worthwhile entertainment you provide! Very much appreciated! By the way, I also have a genuine Time Machine: a pristine,
BRG/Doeskin, unregistered November 1992 Daimler Double Six with delivery mileage (362 km). Even the original factory seat covers, to be removed before customer hand over, are still there.
Greetings from England,so envious of your un registered Daimler, lucky man.
Regards.
@@boyfromblackstuff7859 Thanks for commenting. Yes, it was a lucky turn of events for the Daimler to come my way. I've known the car since the nineties and offered to buy the car if ever the owner wanted to dispose of it. He needed to do major work on his house some years ago and offered the car to me. However, we have been friends for decades and the car has remained in "the family" so to speak. The owner had had an official Jaguar and Leyland dealership in Germany from the sixties until the eighties and had been in good contact with the factory at the time. Many QC issues appeared on Jaguar cars specifically in Germany, as they were more strained due to the higher speeds. The man and his team worked out a number of these issues on their own, as the factory was slow to react and the solutions often unsatisfactory. At times the factory would consult with my friend's team and some of their solutions were fed into series production. In fact the factory built him a specially equipped XJS in 1976. Among other tweaks it had the four speed manual transmission from the E-Type S3.
Interesting story there,fate dictated the Daimler should fall into the hands of a person who would both appreciate its rarity considering its history and would care for it appropriately,well done.
Always been a big fan of XJ series of Jaguar's,in my childhood they represented wealth and affluence.
I currently run an XK V8 convertible, although it rarely leaves the garage unless the sun is guaranteed!
Also Jaguar XJS V12 ,year 1989, which I am constantly working on, latest task is the Lucas Omnicell fibre optic illumination system to various elements of switch gear,so far quite challenging ,insofar as not damaging any of the veneer on the centre console in the strip down.
Not supprised your friend had issues with the factory re QC in I am assuming the 1970's , having worked with people who recounted stories to me of their time in the employ of Rootes Group in Coventry and also British Steel Corporation it is no wonder the co's did not survive.
Regards.
Did you know that if you remove the black top off the air flow metre you can adjust the toothed wheel inside by easing back the spring clip and moving the toothed wheel either way, to richen or weaken the mixture, ( i would mark the position of the spring clip in the wheel tooth before starting ), if you've adjusted the mixture by way of the adjuster down the hole of the air flow metre and it's still out of range, set the adjuster to the recommended turns and try the above method, BUT make sure the fuel relay clicks to it's off position. Put sealant on the air flow metre black top and fit back in place..
I'm a UK retired Jag Technician of 50 years experience, 1963 - 2011.
Jeffrey, I'm fairly sure that someone has adjusted the toothed wheel on my car. Could you point me in the right direction of where it should be as standard or is it a case of trial and error?
I don't have the set starting position, but make sure with the ignition turned on, you turn the wheel to hear the fuel relay click off.
If you have a co machine, turn the wheel to watch it weaken or richen, soon as the relay clicks on you've gone to far, go back so it clicks off,
Then use the adjuster down the hole, i think there was a plug over the hole.
Great detective work. You must know more about these engines and how to diagnose and fix problems with them than anyone in Sweden. Well done once again!
Thank you! I’m just a real nerd haha
Wish there was a pub quiz for useless Jaguar facts
@@LivingWithAClassic you’d win hands down. Maybe only Sir William Lyons could beat you in the Useless Jaguar Trivia game!! Your mental checklist sure comes in handy in your garage though!
Great to have S3 on channel, most informative Adam. I would love to see more on this series. The s3 lives in a techno vacuum, where it is a sophisticated “modern” car without the diagnostics. Mechanics where i live cant or wont deal with them. Thanks again.
Great work. She sounds really healthy. My first one was a very early 1981 series 3 and it had exactly the same problem. Took ages to determine what it was. Used to stall if the steering was on full lock. Great once it was adjusted though and got better as time went on. I think it was s bit coked up but eventually cleared itself. Best car I ever had! Great video as always!
…and let me guess, your other cars were an amc gremlin, ford pinto and a yugo? Ha ha. Just kidding.
Great video Adam. Would also love to see the tune up and general service the car appears to need.
I love the honesty of your work and how you don’t get stressed about any problem, impressive….
Thank you!
Just shows that a little knowledge is a bad thing. The vakue of a good independent specialist cannot be overstated. Good job Adam.
Can you make a video showing all the vacuum points/lines for the series3? I've check the net but cannot a lot of info on that. Also, what about injecting smoke into the system to find leaks, is there a safe, do it yourself method of doing that?
Great diagnosis Adam! Thanks for showing a Series 3!
Great fix, lovely car !
Make sure you try and get the owner to buy your spare Series 3 cam covers to replace his old crusty ones… 😊
My spare ones are sadly cracked but I’m going to referb his. They leak and I can’t put them back on looking that bad
Great video. Fascinating how well you know the engines and the methodologies you follow to diagnose the problem. Very entertaining.
Absolutely love these i had one 1986 model had it for about 5 years ago, such a lovely smooth drive
The wonderful XK engine had a long life. Good detective work there Adam. Need to talk the owner into having the cam covers painted. LoL. Sounds great now, looking forward to an update. Cheers.
Thank you for the video Adam. Even if S3 has a lot of info on the internet there aren't so many technical videos. As a lot of people say I think the s3 is the most beautifull sedan ever made. One day I'll have one. But for now I don't have the room. Keep doing the good work you do.
You have become very well versed on the Jags.
Very interesting as I have a series 3 Daimler 4.2. The idle is slightly uneven (not as pronounced as this), but this video has given me some very helpful ideas 👍
Hi Adam. Well done - another great video. I’m currently in the phase of “the more I watch, the more I learn” of getting to know how my lovely new car works. XJ Series III are indeed achingly beautiful cars - it would be the next car in my garage if I had room! Take care. Peter
beyond room, you'll first need to wash down 75 tabs of LSD ... and drive yourself totally insane ... then buy a JAG
Super Interesting!
I have a 1982 Daimler XJ6 series 3 with the same problem - it idles fine when cold but rough when hot (to the extent that it almost stalls, and will stall if I have the air con on). I checked the spot that you adjusted but mine is not accessible, it is covered over with a metal plate/strut so I hope it has not been messed with…
Would love to hear more about what work this car could benefit from !
Very interesting ! Great detective work
I have the same issue with my S3 so I will proceed as you did
Thanks so much !
Let me know how you get on @Jean-Pierre. I have a similar problem with my '83 S3 but won't be able to get under the bonnet of it until end of March. Another really helpful video from Adam. Let's hope the owner asks you to do more work so we can follow your progress on an S3.
@@markdpeter
Hello Mark. I will as soon as possible. Weather is cold now in Canada so I don’t have the problem. I have already changed the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires and the coil.
I also did the vacuum leak test but I will repeat it.
I will let you know as soon as I can !
Hello Mark
As promised, here is an update on my 87 XJ6 idle issues when warm.
I found a leak in the conduct between the AFM and throttle body. I replaced it and that solved the “hesitation” when accelerating briskly !
I also found that the airflow adjustment screw was tempered with. As in Adam’s case, there was no plug protecting the screw and it was fully closed clockwise. I turned the screw 4 turns counterclockwise and it does idle regularly at around 800 rpm when hot (about 95-100 F).
In other words, SUCCESS !
Thanks so much Adam. Your videos are very interesting and they helped me several times !
I hope this will help you, Mark, enjoying your XJ6
Wrong spark plugs can cause issues, as you know, different reach different temp etc. Also as the coil is strapped to the engine they can breakdown when hot.
With California smog laws would 4 turns out on the air flow meter apply as well?
I had same issue. I also had to manually adjust air flow sensor needle. I installed simple o2 gauge over voltage meter to get some idea what kind of mixture it was running. For inspection i had to make it run very lean and that caused some popping when idling, after that i made idle much richer so that i would run smoother. ECU does use O2 sensor to control mixture but not at idle (air flow sensor has mechanical switch for "idle position"). It quite messy system and with worn out engine, blow by is excessive also causing mixture problems... I also had that "bell noise" when slightly revving, timing chain tensioner needs adjusting?
Does anyone know if the XK engines changed during the s3 era? I recall years ago someone telling me that around 84 or 85 Jaguar took back the manufacturing and the engines were better built (something to do with the block or head design/materials). I now own 84 and am wondering if that’s true and which engine I have.
Nice work Adam. I have an '83 XJ6 and it is a lovely car. So very nice to drive, smooth and comfortable. I use is quite a bit in the summers. The only thing I would wish for is that it had a 4 speed automatic transmission. I think that would make quite a difference in performance, but I don't want to alter a classic.
Seen this type thing many times Adam bad adjustment if you don't know these vehicles best to leave them and consult an expert such as yourself well diagnosed all the best donny
I got a 93 xj6 which keeps stalling and rough idle. Gave me a fuel failure code 12. I've changed the fuel pump and filter. Any suggestions.
Great video, love the Series 3
Glad it's fixed! I'm still a bit scared of buying a car with an XK engine. Are they good, are they bad, I don't know. Yet, so many cars with an XK engine are on their 2nd, 3th engine. What is happening? Seems like the V12 or the AJ6 aren't affected in the same way.
I've never heard anyone having a question about XK longevity before- I'm also not seeing cars having been through multiple engines, either. They are not prone to breakage that would render the engine unrepairable at all. If the later ones sit for long periods of time, the head bolts corrode... but the engines are more like industrial tractor engines in their durability. I think a lot of people can't troubleshoot properly and just start swapping engines instead of repairing them or something. My E-Type has its original 54 year old engine in it and my SIII XJ6 has its original- and no hint of any serious issues. I'be been a Jag guy for decades and owned a restoration/repair for British classic cars for years and never saw a "blown" XK engine at all... only bad cores from corrosion from sitting when looking for a spare to rebuild for a race car.
Good day Adam and it just shows what tampering to such delicate stuff can do without knowing what you are doing .If i may ask you a question i bought a 1984 Jaguar Series 3 4.2 lt that was standing for more than 2 years.There was no compression but after putting some oil on the pustons and after many attempts i hot it fired up.Oil pressure gauge is very slow and lazy to register. With times it lifts up to 3 and stay there for a while. With times it drops completely beyond 0 all off a sudden. Some times it stays at 3 but when you give acceleration it drops beyond 0 again.I did a oil change and replaced the oil filter as well but without any change or success. Can that maybe be a oil sensor or something worse?The car is not on the road yet as i am still busy with rust repairs.Hope that yiu can give me guidance where to start now and what to do next.And i did not flush the engine. Only let it warm up and drain the oil.Will appreciate your assistance. Have a blessed day and keep save.
Get a mechanical (old school) gauge and screw it to the sensor location or oil galley on the block. You’ll know when you find it, unscrewed oil will leak out, not antifreeze. Research this on YT, all engines have them.
@@rossilake3430 Tank you very much RossiLake and i appreciate your help and response. Will see if i can get hold of one off those gauges and do that test.
I never knew the mass air had an adjustment. Thanks
How did well did you survive Storm Otto?
Oh, I am very excited to see this on your channel. I hope you find opportunities to post more on these cars.
I just recently acquired my first Series 3 car, and am facing a few things I am sure you can help with! :D
Sir I have the same problems for 8 years , I also tried to fix the afm screw , but it’s not helpful , my idle is “dancing “ also the engine is dancing . When I put “R” idle down then I put ac on , and is on 300. Maybe you can help me
Afm is new , sparks new , coolant sensor works . But idle and engine is shaking and it’s not comfortable
I had the same problem and I found out it was juste the micro switch throttle switch. Just disconnect it first and then the idle will be fine. It cost me 7 £ and it’s easy to fix. Your videos are great but could you please change the music ? 😊 take care. Arnaud from France
Glad you like the videos but i like the music
What cost you the 7? What was the fix, just disconnecting? Where is that micro switch? Near the trans indicator assembly between the seats? Thank you
From 1984 and up they got a lot better
I can’t say how many of this models I have seen in total abandon state in Marbella . At least 10 beautiful Jags o this model which is awesome. Is my dream sedan . No modern sedan is beautiful as is this .
Good job Adam.. may I suggest a spark tester and a niod light for the injectors...also if you are ever curious about how well the O2 is working and roughly the emissions controls of the ECU is doing, simply put your multimeter red lead on the signal wire of the O2 and ground lead on a good ground, and if it's running at a close stoichiometric mix, you should see it jumping between .3 to .8 volts.. you know the system is perfect when it's steady around .5 volts.
Adam, do you know which XJ between 1985 and 1998 is the most reliable and easy to work on? Greeting, Philip
They’re all pretty reliable but I think X300 is the most reliable and XJ6 series 3 is the easiest to work on
If they look old, change plugs, wires and the cap/rotor. . ALWAYS....Those coils are a problem! We should look for an alternative coil, Bosch, PS91 like on my TR-6. Dunno Adam, Love your video’s. Waiting on my AAV rebuild kit. 👍
I’ll replace what the owner wants me to. It’s not always my choice
Nice job you know your jags
My xj40 engine shakes quite a bit. But it runs well. 750-800rpm in idle, doesnt die in gear, even if its uphill. It also accepts gas perfectly. Driving it feels perfect
I just dont get why it shakes so much. The igintion wires are already blurry to the eye from the shaking.
Any idea what that could be?
sadly today the shaking got even worse in idle and especially in reverse. i can also hear it missfiring when i hear the tailpipe. sadly no code. what would you test first?
Very helpful!
Good to know
Glad you liked it
Thanks! That helped my dad XJ40 :)
Nice bit of diagnostics. Guess my plug theory was wrong.
Sorry what did you say aboutvthe fuel system the fuel pump should be activated at the acc point.our 4.2 come on when the in acc position because that activatethe electrical system for starting
Delightful.
my jaguar 85 have no injection don't start and nobody will move it help
Great video but 1 point needs to be clarified. What you referred to as the MAF (Mass Air Flow) is not actually a MAF. In the original German it is referred to as a VAF (Volume Air Flow) but in English it is referred to as an AFM (Air Flow Meter). The difference between a MAF and the VAF/AFM is a MAF calculates the actual mass (weight/density) of the air going into the engine while a VAF/AFM only calculates a theoretical amount of air. With the VAF/AFM it doesn't matter what altitude the engine is running at or what the air temp is it will always read the same. With a MAF altitude and air temp make a difference to the calculation.
Thanks for that
hej finns det någon manuellt växlad xj6
Yes, in UK side of the pond but very rare. Unheard of in the states.
Edward Woodward, eat your heart out lol
Hope there's a White snake cassette in the deck?
I’ll have to add one 😂
It’s not a two door! Ours is LS swapped California emissions compliant ! Look for concourse classics in Newbury park CA !!!
You are the best
Thank you!
I think it is a plug breaking down when hot.
Whoever played with it previously obviously didn't RTFM.
Haha nope they didn’t!
Horrible front bumpers ruined the look of a beautiful car
This guy with his glasses and hat seems to be a NICE guy, but he does NOT realize he is talking to people on the network, so he MUST SPEAK ALOUD to be heard and understood, but not mummbling for himself just like he is nagging about something. Moreover, when u upload the file, it SHRINKS, so the QUALITY of the file decreases,hence, the SPEAKER SHOULD SPEAK CLEARLY and LOUDLY. COMMON SENSE.!!!!!!!
Your caps lock is on
What is that god awful rubber strip on the doors that not factory standard no body puts that on a jaguar the should be chrome strip that runs along the crease line front ro rear and thats it never anything on the lower part of the door . Thats ugly what are you north Americans thinking !! 😢
Love Adam he is the best........
Thank you!