PART #1: th-cam.com/video/WJZ4e_Ku_Yk/w-d-xo.html PART #3: th-cam.com/video/i_OM4AUYyfw/w-d-xo.html PART #4: th-cam.com/video/_VHfWvlPdg8/w-d-xo.html PART #5: th-cam.com/video/IYn7V3HUK9I/w-d-xo.html
@ensonlwesya4879 Nothing, if you are lucky and don't drive the car hard:) Otherwise, Vanos units can slip, causing timing errors. Worst case scenario they break; causing serious damage. In a pinch you can reuse them, just to get the engine running (very light driving), but I would never drive the car in everyday scenarios, given what is at stake:)
ATTENTION ⚠️ Please Read This: It's very important to extra tighten the Zip Ties. Really tighten them very very good or better use even 2 Zip Ties. Like Jeff said please take care of the "Spring Legs" rested in the V-Shapes (8 times). This is super risky if the Zip Ties aren't tighten enough. And be really gentle with tighten down the bolts when putting back the whole thing. Do it in many steps/turns. First 4NM, then 6NM, then 8NM and finally 10NM. Bimmerzen thank you so much for your detailed videos. Really appreciate. Story; unfortunately in my case the whole structure fell apart. I had to manually put in the inlet Camshaft and the long rockers and the super heavy springs. Nothing broke but hell of a project. - Tom
@@CaliKush0G Yes. Video 1: (The one I used) th-cam.com/video/dMIZMsjLda8/w-d-xo.html Video 2: th-cam.com/video/5ieUmpVxNfc/w-d-xo.html If you need more answers or personal help please let me know you can reach out to me on Facebook.
@@tompijnappel7368 No mate, I hadn't enough time this week. I'm going to fix that next week. I have found a complete solution video th-cam.com/video/_gRjmM7fhj8/w-d-xo.html
@ 4:45 - re making sure first cylinder is in TDC, with the @ 4:53 cutouts in the exhaust camshaft being on the 'passenger' side, well, that's country dependent! :-( Allow me to suggest to viewers that the message here should be understood as - make sure the cutouts in the exhaust camshaft are facing the exhaust side of the engine. :-) Thanks for these videos BimmerZen.
Hi there. If you could help me with my situation. I followed the instructions by setting the 1st cylinder in TDC and then locking the inlet camshaft in doing so I can't seem to position exhaust camshaft in the exhaust side of the engine therefore, I can't lock the exhaust camshaft. any help is much appreciated thank you.
Adrian Barraca Hello again Adrian. I think I know what the problem might be. The crankshaft turns two revolutions for every one revolution of the camshafts. You might need to rotate the crankshaft one full turn to get the correct TDC in place to align the camshafts where they need to be. Report back and we’ll get this sorted. 🙂 Edit: Provided the timing is as it should normally be, the correct orientation of the inlet manifold for locking is when the domed or rounded surface of its rear end is facing upwards. The other surface at that end is flat, and should be facing down. When you have this lined up, with TDC cylinder 1 locked, you’ll find that the exhaust camshaft will also be ready for locking, though it might need to be rotated clockwise slightly with a 30mm (I think) open ended wrench, to allow the exhaust cam locking tool to settle into place. Give it a try. 👍
Hi, Thank you so much for this. Very good and clear. I have a badly leaky number 2 cylinder spark plug sleeve which is captive under the valvetronic assembly. do you think it would be posssible to remove the valvetronic assembly or lift it far enough to replace the sleeve without removing the inlet cam? Can I zip tie the rockers to the eccentric shaft but leave the inlet cam in the car still timed?
Just found the answer to my question above. For anyone like me wanting to replace the captive sparkplug sleeve on plug 2 or 3...You have to do the whole cam removal as in BimmerZen's video. See: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e87-120i-sha/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/3z6r31q
Tnx for answering your own question:) You are correct. In order to lift the VALVETRONIC bracket you have to secure the whole assembly and cam with zip ties otherwise idler arms will fall out of place due to spring tension. If that happens you have to reassemble the whole thing and check that it fits correctly (PITA). If an idler arm slips it WILL damage or possibly destroy your engine! I try to "just lift" the VALVETRONIC assembly without securing it with zip ties in this video: th-cam.com/video/D6dNF5Yr3qQ/w-d-xo.html That "click" sound is when the idler arm falls out of alignment!
@@przemysawsek4974 I use Elring, they are 3x cheaper and so far I had no issues. However I do know that the OEM seals are slightly different color which suggest different manufacturer. Not sure which is best...:)
Its great that I found your videos. One question though. I only need to replace my dying eccentric shaft sensor, does that require any special steps or is it just a simple job of removing the three bolts then putting on the new sensor ?
@@BimmerZen Thanks for the quick reply! Good to know that I don't have to do any zip tie retaining. As for the tool I think I have just the thing for the job. Thanks !
i know its an old post but correct if I'm wrong, crank should always be rotated to the rotation of the engine so clockwise?. In the video you're turning the crank counter clockwise?
Yes, in general it's best to rotate the engine CW - keep the oil pump pumping and chain tight. But during this repair you can rotate the engine CCW because you also have to hold the chain tight against the crank sprocket.
@@BimmerZen hey thanks for the reply. I've just finished the job put everything back together and started it. using a scan tool, I'm getting a misfire in the 3rd cylinder, this is where it gets weird. cylinder 3 is showing signs of running really rich on the spark plug, checked compression its 200psi. switched coils around still cylinder 3, changed spark plugs still cylinder 3. I did accidentally short pliers from the engine to the positive terminal which caused a spark. I'm thinking I've ruined something electrically and its caused the issue?
@@elmekanikoauto intermediate lever springs slipped and/or rocker arms slipped out of position on cylinder nr 3 - very common mistake people make... One of the valves is not opening correctly, causing missfire and rich condition. Check out my other video where I point this out: th-cam.com/video/Fn85Y-X9fAM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JsaeV9Jt2mPwzUvN Remove valve cover and inspect components on cylinder nr 3, rectify and reasemble.
@@BimmerZen hey again lastly the car runs and drives perfect. after about 15-20 mins of driving the engine comes on with a VANOS adaptation stopped code for intake and exhaust. After clearing and resetting adaptation and clearing code the engine light will go away and after 15-20 mins of driving again it will come back. is the VANOS units faulty or is the timing out ever so slightly to cause this issue, when the engine light comes on the car still idles and drives fine. appreciate the reply and help.
Hey! Thanks for the help, I have the same problem and have ordered all the parts. Would you recommend replacing the timing chain whilst everything is out for preventative maintenance? Or is it too much of a hassle
Chain can wear and stretch over time and the tensioner loses spring tension. If you hear short rattle on cold starts (engine 12h in rest) I would recommend changing the chain or at least the chain tensioner (with improved version). More problematic are the plastic chain rails and guides. They get brittle over many heat cycles and can break, causing the chain to skip, valves getting bent and so on... If you want to be 100% just buy the whole set (chain, tensioner, guide rails, VANOS and crankchaft bolts) and change everything. It's a lot of work, but much less if you do it now... I already bought a set and will be doing the chain replacement on my N42 car so stay tuned for a DIY guide on that:)
Awesome, thank you so much! While I'm doing the replacement of the valve stem seals, is there anything else that you could recommend I inspect and/or replace? I have a 2007 BMW 120i with 119,000 KMS
Are you sure you need this job on such a low mileage / new-ish car? Otherwise I would recommend also replacing vacuum pump seals, valve cover gasket, VANOS solenoid O-rings. They all go bad after 10-15 years. I will have a video on the vacuum pump seals replacement soon:)
I scanned the car with a code reader and I got the code P0430 which is a code for the catalytic converter which could be from the excess oil going through the exhaust? I also got the code P1129 which is the downstream oxygen sensors which could also have been affected by excess oil going through the exhaust. When I got the car I drove it 1000KM in a straight shot, I started with the oil level being full and 3/4 through the drive I got a message saying I needed oil. I know BMW's use quite a bit of oil but not this much. You can smell the oil out of the exhaust and sometimes when I accelerate from a stop, a white cloud of smoke will come out the exhaust. Could be and hopefully is the CVV but the forums point to it not being that.
Yep, your symptoms are consistent with bad valve stem seals:/ But I didn't have any error codes. My car also started consuming a lot of oil after I went for a long 1000km drive.. Any other oil leaks?
I went to change the vanos motor on my 318CI 2005 and noticed that the cam carrier has cracked on the intake side.. Would I be better to replace the whole head or is it an easy job to just change the cam carrier?
Valvetronic cam carrier cracked?? I'm really interested in this failure... If you find the time, I would really appreciate it if you send me a photo to my email bimmerzenchannel@gmail.com:) If I had the same issue I would first try to replace the Valvetronic carrier from a same year engine model (just in case). Valvetronic disassembly and reassembly is very tricky, so you need some experience. All components must be put back in to same position, and eccentric shaft bearings ideally replaced. If you can get whole cylinder head for a good price, then replacing it could be a good alternative. Still a lot of work, but you can sell the good parts from your old head.
Hello man do you live in EU.. I tried to get the STL for the tools but I don't know what is going on with my PC it doesn't scan downlands for viruses so I couldn't get them
Not sure what you mean... Where did you try to get the STL from? If you got the STL on my website bimmerzen.com you can contact me via the email in my channel description.
First time it took me 16 hours, now that I have more experience and better tools it takes me about 10h. So, if you have an experienced mechanic just multiply about 10h times how much he charges an hour + about 50 EUR in parts if nothing else needs replacing. It's the perfect time to change vacuum pump seals, valve cover gasket and some other small seals...
Hi. I removed the tensioner and started rotating the engine and the chain made these jumps every 90 degrees of rotation or so. And every time it does,i can see the chain bounce up above the chain guide. Is it skipping a tooth? I just needed to get to TDC. I made like 6 or 7 of these jumps before i stopped cause i thought pistons may hit the valves. Im in TDC but just curious if i coulda caused damage
If your chain guide rail is not broken, then the chain should not be able to jump. There is a small leaf spring at the bottom of the rail near the crankshaft sprocket that keeps the chain under tension (th-cam.com/video/Pi9fWWNf0gA/w-d-xo.html) even if the main tensioner is removed. I think you are "feeling" the cams compressing the valve springs. Does it feel like you are compressing a spring?
@@BimmerZen the chain didnt jump cause i managed to secure the locking tools and put the crank locking tool at the same time. Means it was still timed. Maybe it was just springs. But the chain looked like it jumped above the chain guide in the middle. Maybe thats how it acts without the tension. Thank you for your vid,i managed to take the head off and ill be changing the gasket 🤞
You are a legend mate! Great videos and explainations. My bmw is have the same engine as on your videos (N46B20A). Its done only 96k miles but oil consuming oil and blue smoke coming out the exhaust while moving off from iddle. But when driving motor no smoke comes out. With all my research and tests and believe its the valve oil seals. I am planning to do this job myself as from tomorrow. Please can you give some advice or it is possible to have a phone number to contact you and talk over the phone or something?
Hasveen Beelur Tnx! Good luck, it's not an easy job. Make sure you have all the tools and 2 days of time. Also read the service manual. Follow me on instagram (bimmerzen) and contact me there for more info.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
PART #1: th-cam.com/video/WJZ4e_Ku_Yk/w-d-xo.html
PART #3: th-cam.com/video/i_OM4AUYyfw/w-d-xo.html
PART #4: th-cam.com/video/_VHfWvlPdg8/w-d-xo.html
PART #5: th-cam.com/video/IYn7V3HUK9I/w-d-xo.html
Quick question: What happens when you reuse the camshaft bolts?
@ensonlwesya4879 Nothing, if you are lucky and don't drive the car hard:) Otherwise, Vanos units can slip, causing timing errors. Worst case scenario they break; causing serious damage. In a pinch you can reuse them, just to get the engine running (very light driving), but I would never drive the car in everyday scenarios, given what is at stake:)
Great cable tie hack, used this today on a n46 engine , worked a treat 👌, the full camshaft train lifted out and back in perfectly 👍👍👍👍
ATTENTION ⚠️ Please Read This:
It's very important to extra tighten the Zip Ties. Really tighten them very very good or better use even 2 Zip Ties. Like Jeff said please take care of the "Spring Legs" rested in the V-Shapes (8 times). This is super risky if the Zip Ties aren't tighten enough. And be really gentle with tighten down the bolts when putting back the whole thing. Do it in many steps/turns. First 4NM, then 6NM, then 8NM and finally 10NM. Bimmerzen thank you so much for your detailed videos. Really appreciate.
Story; unfortunately in my case the whole structure fell apart. I had to manually put in the inlet Camshaft and the long rockers and the super heavy springs. Nothing broke but hell of a project.
- Tom
hello! Do you have any ideas how to fix that structure when it felt apart?
@@CaliKush0G Yes.
Video 1: (The one I used)
th-cam.com/video/dMIZMsjLda8/w-d-xo.html
Video 2:
th-cam.com/video/5ieUmpVxNfc/w-d-xo.html
If you need more answers or personal help please let me know you can reach out to me on Facebook.
@@tompijnappel7368 thanks man you're the best !!!!!!!!
@@CaliKush0G Have you got succeeded?
@@tompijnappel7368 No mate, I hadn't enough time this week. I'm going to fix that next week. I have found a complete solution video th-cam.com/video/_gRjmM7fhj8/w-d-xo.html
@ 4:45 - re making sure first cylinder is in TDC, with the @ 4:53 cutouts in the exhaust camshaft being on the 'passenger' side, well, that's country dependent! :-( Allow me to suggest to viewers that the message here should be understood as - make sure the cutouts in the exhaust camshaft are facing the exhaust side of the engine. :-) Thanks for these videos BimmerZen.
Good point. I'll keep this in mind in my future videos.
Hi there. If you could help me with my situation. I followed the instructions by setting the 1st cylinder in TDC and then locking the inlet camshaft in doing so I can't seem to position exhaust camshaft in the exhaust side of the engine therefore, I can't lock the exhaust camshaft. any help is much appreciated thank you.
Adrian Barraca Hi Adrian. I’ll be home from shopping soon and will see what help I can provide. Stand by. 🙂
Adrian Barraca Hello again Adrian. I think I know what the problem might be. The crankshaft turns two revolutions for every one revolution of the camshafts. You might need to rotate the crankshaft one full turn to get the correct TDC in place to align the camshafts where they need to be. Report back and we’ll get this sorted. 🙂 Edit: Provided the timing is as it should normally be, the correct orientation of the inlet manifold for locking is when the domed or rounded surface of its rear end is facing upwards. The other surface at that end is flat, and should be facing down. When you have this lined up, with TDC cylinder 1 locked, you’ll find that the exhaust camshaft will also be ready for locking, though it might need to be rotated clockwise slightly with a 30mm (I think) open ended wrench, to allow the exhaust cam locking tool to settle into place. Give it a try. 👍
@@Valden23 Good advice:)
hi, the videos are very insteresting... it would be great a video where you will explain how to remplace the timing chain. thank you!
Doing timing chain replacement right now:) There will be a video soon...
Your posts are really helpfull. Could you do one for replacing an n42b20 head gasket? Once again thanks for great content.
Maybe, If one comes up:)
NO NEED TO LOCK THE CRANCKSHAFT?
Have a video on getting TDC or installing the locking pin ?
th-cam.com/video/Fn85Y-X9fAM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qzM7A51aO3JSamBp
th-cam.com/users/shorts3sTCKt5Oh00?si=Unj6b1MyDUJXXGQ7
Hi, Thank you so much for this. Very good and clear.
I have a badly leaky number 2 cylinder spark plug sleeve which is captive under the valvetronic assembly. do you think it would be posssible to remove the valvetronic assembly or lift it far enough to replace the sleeve without removing the inlet cam? Can I zip tie the rockers to the eccentric shaft but leave the inlet cam in the car still timed?
Just found the answer to my question above. For anyone like me wanting to replace the captive sparkplug sleeve on plug 2 or 3...You have to do the whole cam removal as in BimmerZen's video. See: www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e87-120i-sha/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-31-camshaft/3z6r31q
Tnx for answering your own question:)
You are correct. In order to lift the VALVETRONIC bracket you have to secure the whole assembly and cam with zip ties otherwise idler arms will fall out of place due to spring tension. If that happens you have to reassemble the whole thing and check that it fits correctly (PITA). If an idler arm slips it WILL damage or possibly destroy your engine!
I try to "just lift" the VALVETRONIC assembly without securing it with zip ties in this video: th-cam.com/video/D6dNF5Yr3qQ/w-d-xo.html
That "click" sound is when the idler arm falls out of alignment!
Thanks again. Love the "At this moment........." very cool.
Hello. What brand of valve seals do you recommend, original or replacement, and if a replacement, from what manufacturer? Thanks for the answer.
@@przemysawsek4974 I use Elring, they are 3x cheaper and so far I had no issues. However I do know that the OEM seals are slightly different color which suggest different manufacturer. Not sure which is best...:)
Thank you for the quick reply.
I have one more question. Does the engine need to be suspended to replace the timing chain?
Poderia deixar as polias no lugar ?, vou fazer na corda na câmara de combustão?
Thank You!!!
Thank YOU!
Sensacional. Obrigado.
Its great that I found your videos. One question though. I only need to replace my dying eccentric shaft sensor, does that require any special steps or is it just a simple job of removing the three bolts then putting on the new sensor ?
No special tools needed, but you will need a very compact 10mm wrench to undo the bolts.
@@BimmerZen Thanks for the quick reply! Good to know that I don't have to do any zip tie retaining. As for the tool I think I have just the thing for the job. Thanks !
Good information 👍👍👍
i know its an old post but correct if I'm wrong, crank should always be rotated to the rotation of the engine so clockwise?. In the video you're turning the crank counter clockwise?
Yes, in general it's best to rotate the engine CW - keep the oil pump pumping and chain tight. But during this repair you can rotate the engine CCW because you also have to hold the chain tight against the crank sprocket.
@@BimmerZen hey thanks for the reply. I've just finished the job put everything back together and started it. using a scan tool, I'm getting a misfire in the 3rd cylinder, this is where it gets weird. cylinder 3 is showing signs of running really rich on the spark plug, checked compression its 200psi. switched coils around still cylinder 3, changed spark plugs still cylinder 3. I did accidentally short pliers from the engine to the positive terminal which caused a spark. I'm thinking I've ruined something electrically and its caused the issue?
@@elmekanikoauto intermediate lever springs slipped and/or rocker arms slipped out of position on cylinder nr 3 - very common mistake people make... One of the valves is not opening correctly, causing missfire and rich condition.
Check out my other video where I point this out: th-cam.com/video/Fn85Y-X9fAM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JsaeV9Jt2mPwzUvN
Remove valve cover and inspect components on cylinder nr 3, rectify and reasemble.
@@BimmerZen great advice went to inspect and found the lever spring popped off not sure how. Thanks mate car is running perfect now 👍🏾
@@BimmerZen hey again lastly the car runs and drives perfect. after about 15-20 mins of driving the engine comes on with a VANOS adaptation stopped code for intake and exhaust. After clearing and resetting adaptation and clearing code the engine light will go away and after 15-20 mins of driving again it will come back. is the VANOS units faulty or is the timing out ever so slightly to cause this issue, when the engine light comes on the car still idles and drives fine. appreciate the reply and help.
Did this fix the oil consumption
Yes.
this is a tough job.. thot it would take me two hours... spent an entire week!
Hey! Thanks for the help, I have the same problem and have ordered all the parts. Would you recommend replacing the timing chain whilst everything is out for preventative maintenance? Or is it too much of a hassle
Chain can wear and stretch over time and the tensioner loses spring tension. If you hear short rattle on cold starts (engine 12h in rest) I would recommend changing the chain or at least the chain tensioner (with improved version). More problematic are the plastic chain rails and guides. They get brittle over many heat cycles and can break, causing the chain to skip, valves getting bent and so on... If you want to be 100% just buy the whole set (chain, tensioner, guide rails, VANOS and crankchaft bolts) and change everything. It's a lot of work, but much less if you do it now...
I already bought a set and will be doing the chain replacement on my N42 car so stay tuned for a DIY guide on that:)
Awesome, thank you so much! While I'm doing the replacement of the valve stem seals, is there anything else that you could recommend I inspect and/or replace? I have a 2007 BMW 120i with 119,000 KMS
Are you sure you need this job on such a low mileage / new-ish car? Otherwise I would recommend also replacing vacuum pump seals, valve cover gasket, VANOS solenoid O-rings. They all go bad after 10-15 years. I will have a video on the vacuum pump seals replacement soon:)
I scanned the car with a code reader and I got the code P0430 which is a code for the catalytic converter which could be from the excess oil going through the exhaust? I also got the code P1129 which is the downstream oxygen sensors which could also have been affected by excess oil going through the exhaust. When I got the car I drove it 1000KM in a straight shot, I started with the oil level being full and 3/4 through the drive I got a message saying I needed oil. I know BMW's use quite a bit of oil but not this much. You can smell the oil out of the exhaust and sometimes when I accelerate from a stop, a white cloud of smoke will come out the exhaust. Could be and hopefully is the CVV but the forums point to it not being that.
Yep, your symptoms are consistent with bad valve stem seals:/ But I didn't have any error codes. My car also started consuming a lot of oil after I went for a long 1000km drive.. Any other oil leaks?
I went to change the vanos motor on my 318CI 2005 and noticed that the cam carrier has cracked on the intake side..
Would I be better to replace the whole head or is it an easy job to just change the cam carrier?
Valvetronic cam carrier cracked?? I'm really interested in this failure... If you find the time, I would really appreciate it if you send me a photo to my email bimmerzenchannel@gmail.com:)
If I had the same issue I would first try to replace the Valvetronic carrier from a same year engine model (just in case). Valvetronic disassembly and reassembly is very tricky, so you need some experience. All components must be put back in to same position, and eccentric shaft bearings ideally replaced.
If you can get whole cylinder head for a good price, then replacing it could be a good alternative. Still a lot of work, but you can sell the good parts from your old head.
Here is some idea on how valvetronic disassembly looks like: th-cam.com/video/iIYY7k6zhFE/w-d-xo.html
@@BimmerZen Thank you for the very fast reply
@@BimmerZen I have just seen this reply, I've sent you over the pictures to your email address.
Hello man do you live in EU.. I tried to get the STL for the tools but I don't know what is going on with my PC it doesn't scan downlands for viruses so I couldn't get them
Not sure what you mean... Where did you try to get the STL from? If you got the STL on my website bimmerzen.com you can contact me via the email in my channel description.
@@BimmerZen cool
Hi how long did you take to do this job? and how much would a mechanic charge thanks
First time it took me 16 hours, now that I have more experience and better tools it takes me about 10h. So, if you have an experienced mechanic just multiply about 10h times how much he charges an hour + about 50 EUR in parts if nothing else needs replacing. It's the perfect time to change vacuum pump seals, valve cover gasket and some other small seals...
Thanks for that!!!
Hi. I removed the tensioner and started rotating the engine and the chain made these jumps every 90 degrees of rotation or so. And every time it does,i can see the chain bounce up above the chain guide. Is it skipping a tooth? I just needed to get to TDC. I made like 6 or 7 of these jumps before i stopped cause i thought pistons may hit the valves. Im in TDC but just curious if i coulda caused damage
If your chain guide rail is not broken, then the chain should not be able to jump. There is a small leaf spring at the bottom of the rail near the crankshaft sprocket that keeps the chain under tension (th-cam.com/video/Pi9fWWNf0gA/w-d-xo.html) even if the main tensioner is removed. I think you are "feeling" the cams compressing the valve springs. Does it feel like you are compressing a spring?
@@BimmerZen the chain didnt jump cause i managed to secure the locking tools and put the crank locking tool at the same time. Means it was still timed. Maybe it was just springs. But the chain looked like it jumped above the chain guide in the middle. Maybe thats how it acts without the tension. Thank you for your vid,i managed to take the head off and ill be changing the gasket 🤞
@@matas1024 Nice. Good luck!
Its fantastic !!
Titanium E46 4Ever Tnx!
You are a legend mate! Great videos and explainations.
My bmw is have the same engine as on your videos (N46B20A). Its done only 96k miles but oil consuming oil and blue smoke coming out the exhaust while moving off from iddle. But when driving motor no smoke comes out.
With all my research and tests and believe its the valve oil seals.
I am planning to do this job myself as from tomorrow.
Please can you give some advice or it is possible to have a phone number to contact you and talk over the phone or something?
Hasveen Beelur Tnx! Good luck, it's not an easy job. Make sure you have all the tools and 2 days of time. Also read the service manual. Follow me on instagram (bimmerzen) and contact me there for more info.
Hi buddy. does ur car smoke when driving uphills for a period of time? thanks
@@yzhang4418 mate its sorted. I did exactly what's on the above video and its completely fine. Thanks BimmerZen
Please am begging you can you please send me this repair manual 🙏 please 🙏
Io ho bisogno di qualcuno in provincia di Milano che sia capace a farmi questo tipo di lavoro =(
These videos are wonderful but this music is soiling everything. Otherwise good content.
I agree:D That's why i don't use bg music anymore;)
Are you german?
I'm from Slovenia
Background music is a rediculous distraction
I agree, i stopped using bg music in my newer videos:D
@@BimmerZen Good man! You're a winner now well done
En español
All this bullshit(valvetronic) just to improve throttle response and 10% efficiency on deceleration...Sigh. XD
But, Great video and thank you for recording this. Bless you.
Good information 👍👍👍