So I inherited a very low mileage 316ti which had stood outside for 2 years, the moisture in the engine had pitted the cam and seized solid the valvetronic system. Local BM specialist charged me £200 to diagnose things then told me the engine is shot and the car not worth anything.....cue BIMMERZEN! I ordered a used valvetronic assembly from ebay, stripped it and repositioned the cam, intermediate gear and springs which had shifted in transit and it was good to go. I also changed the chain guides which I suspect may have diminished over the last couple of years, same for the tensioner....I'm not a mechanic, I'm a cook! Without BIMMERZEN this car would be history, as it is we have a beautiful pale green 2004 BMW 316TI with 25000 on the clock which is running like a sewing machine and throwing no codes! THANK YOU BIMMERZEN. Incidentally I used hose clip ratchet pliers together with a spare bolt as an anchor to replace the springs, so easy! Dismantled cleaned and recommissioned in under an hour😊
99.99% of the time it is true that there is a hole in the flywheel. But one time, I worked on a BMW 1 series with an aftermarket clutch & flywheel set without a lock pin hole. We had to be really creative with a solution for timing. But yeah, 'normally' there would be a hole in the flywheel.
Thanks for great, detailed video. Stirred up some traumatic memories. A couple of tips that helped me doing this job for valve stem seal replacement: 1) I decided to remove the intake manifold, this is probably a 30min max job and means you don't have to get under the car to access the flywheel locking location 2) After getting the car in N (auto), disconnect battery and then you can safely remove the two 12V cables that cross over the top of the engine so they don't get in the way 3) Not sure if you mentioned it, but you need to use new bolts for camshaft sprockets since they are stretch bolts
Good point. I did try that once, but now "official" way is easier and faster for me because I've done it so many times. I also have a lift which makes it much easier. So for somebody doing this in his or her garage, it might be a very viable option. And yes, I did mention that the bolts need to be replaced:)
Fantastic video, thanks mate. I just bought the full STL file set - I would have bought the parts themselves, but Australia is a long way away from you, and I have access to many 3D printers. Keep up the great work!
I once removed my Valvetronic. Did not have correct zip tie placement. It exploded lol. Putting it back together was not nice. But it worked out. Car drove fine afterwards and still is.
Update for 2007 - 2009 n46, the intake camshaft no longer has the the rounded end as a reference point for the correct orientation, instead one end is flush with the last lobe and one end is notched, the notched end faces up for correct orientation, exhaust cam is the same as video though.
Gracias entonces entiendo no ha utilizado el bloqueo de abajo bimassa solo con el kit para la parte superior, es que la junta gasket culata no ha quedado bien tengo que volver atrás un saludo 👋 desde España
hello, thanks for this perfect video. it is very very helpful to me, i like this blue zip at 40.30 , i had have so many problems with this plastic thing and the lockingpin
I've realized that this is quite a common issue for folks, so I actually made a seperate video on how to disconnect the CCV oil dipstick return hose: th-cam.com/video/gmRjuAEmSbI/w-d-xo.html
I've done this procedure several times but each time the sensor bracket is slightly off and I have to turn intake and exhaust the tiny amount they do move when the camshaft gear sprockets are locked to make it fit. I've used two different timing tools and I'm using your chain pretensioning tool to pretension the chain. The service manual doesn't say to put back the sensor bracket, only the flywheel pin and camshaft tools. I wonder if it's normal since the timing chain tensioner is inserted when trying, altering the tension on the chain.
Nicely done! Have you done a video on replacing the N42 valvetronic actuator? Is there a part in INPA for the E46/N42 where you "relearn/calibrate" the new actuator? I had a quick look at your other videos but didn't see one. Many thanks for any help.
On the N42 engine (ME9 ECU) there is no manual function to calibrate, as far as I know. It is performed automatically if it detects that the current VVT position is different than the one stored in the memory. So if you change VVT position, just let the ignition key in position 2 for about 10 seconds and it will perform calibration.
@@BimmerZen Thanks very much for your reply. Had already successfully done the job but good to know. Took the added protection of "locking" the worm gear in place with wooden chocks and carefully turned helical shaft in and out to the same place. Another slight finesse to your instructions is to hold the large gasket in place temporarily with zip ties which can be cut out before bolting down. Saves worrying to much about it staying in place especially at the rear. Make sure you cut the right part though so it all comes out at once! String would work also I guess.
Comprei arquivo das peças para trocar retentores, muitas boas , mas esse tensionador , complicou pôs você não falou em qual material fez , pôs quase morro de tentar por a corrente no ponto
Hi, you mentioned that you did this particular job to verify rough running on one of the cylinders, will you make a followup video on this topic on what you found? Or maybe there was no difference? I'm curious about the valvetronic system and how it can wear out.
I'm working on that video for some time now... the engine still feels like it has some roughness. I've reset the adaptations and I still need to drive the car a little bit for everything to settle. Currently the nr 4 cylinder is better, but the roughness moved to other cylinders.
Hi! issue is from solenoid admision. They must have 3mm moving..you can open solenoid...in front of solenoid they are a cap that can be removed...take the spring and bracket out and check it
Hola zen tienes que hacer un video de fugas en la tapa o conductos bujías es un problema muy habitual ,he cambiado la junta sigue perdiendo, compro tapa nueva junta nueva ,siempre mucho aceite nuevo cae en el colector ,cuando aceleró más pierde mucho humo ahí delante gracias un saludo 👋
Gracias por su sugerencia. ¿Reemplazaste los sellos de la bomba de vacío? Es una fuga muy común y el aceite gotea directamente sobre el colector de escape y provoca humo y olor a quemado de aceite aproximadamente 1 minuto después del arranque...
Hi man, i have a question about the camshaft Voltage input on n46b20 shouldn't be 5v for the signal ? And 12v ? for the input in my car i have 11.89v i guess i have a short
Thanks for your videos! I just wanted to comment that the proper timing procedureof the N42/46 engines includes (according to BMW TIS) also fixation of the position of counterbalance shafts which requires to take out the oil sump. The correct adjustment/fication of counterbalance shafts is critical especially for 4 cylinder engines. As I do not see this in your video I wonder if you have any other trick how to fix lower part with short chain driving oil pump and counterbalance shafts as this gets loose (even if the flywheel is locked) when the central bolt of the crankshaft is released
@@BimmerZen yep...that is absolutely correct....central bolt has not been released in this specific video.I had in my mind some older video on exchange of timing chain. Anyway- it is a little( but importont detail) which I wanted to highlight for other "N46 timing chain adventurers". Otherwise all you vidos are fantastic and I am a fan of your channel
Thanks for the guides - I have a problem,I only want to change the spark plug tubes in cyl 2 and 3 which are under the valvetronic. My spark plugs are getting wet. Is there a way to do it without disturbing valvetronic motor? I don't have any special tools
Hi sir Greating from Indonesia I have problem on my bmw e90 LCI 2012 2847 : DME, Valvetronic Serrvo Motor, Electric 2863 : DME, Valvetronic , Power Limitation What should i do to fix those problems? Would you want to help? Thank you 🙏
The main isue with theese types of engine is temp junction. The wather opening valve is factory set to opet at 105C that is simpley too hot for this type of engine. If its possible i dont know to replace and remode the opening valve to lets say 94-95c it would be nice. How much do you charge for theese plastick tools. I could try this to do my self because the shops charges too much money for rubber seals replecament.
Hi wie steht der Motor bei begin der Arbeit am Vanos muß es am OT stehen ?????? Es gibt auch UT oder Motor steht in der Mitte kann bitte da jemand etwas nächer eingehen möchte Einlass Nockenwelle und Exenterwelle tauschen. Es geht mir nur wie soll der Motor am Anfang stehen wenn OT 1. zylinder muß oben stehen und der Stift an der Getriebe muß reingesteckt werden. Bitte um eine Antwort möchte loslegen
Hi guys. I had a little leak coming from the eccentric shaft actuator gasket. I bought a new gasket but when I removed the 2 bolts, one of them came out with the insert as well. Is there a way to glue back the metal insert inside the plastic rocker cover? Thanks
Very common issue. People torque those two bolts too much and the brass insert breaks from the plastic valve cover. The solution is to use a strong soldering iron and heat up the brass insert until it is hot enough to melt the plastic. Then carefully press the insert back in to the hole in the valve cover, making sure that insert is surrounded by melted plastic (th-cam.com/video/G-UF4tv3Hvc/w-d-xo.html). This solution worked well for me. Make sure you don't torque the two bolts more than 6Nm.
On my N46 the inlet and outlet °KW are different. Outlet is 120°KW and Inlet is 80°KW. engine shows no failure ... does anyone know why it is different?!
My car is currently at the shop for misfiring and stalling after changing the vanos solonoid o rings, oiled them, put them back in the right way, right connectors. Solonoids were working fine beforehand just leaking oil. Mechanic said they're working but the solonoids are out of timing and haven't "learned" they've reprogrammed them and reset. Still not working. Do you know what the problem could be? I know these cars can be pretty complex. Thanks. Cairo.
Did you check that the solenoids are connected correctly? It's possible to mix up intake and exhaust solenoid connectors. Take a look here to see how they are connected on the N42: th-cam.com/video/QMfCeTXDsl8/w-d-xo.html
I done this job to my N42, new timing belt and new ecentric shaft position sensor. Should I do now some valvetronic calibration or something else, or engine will do that by its own?
The engine vibrates when idling. I changed the coils, spark plugs, and injectors but it still doesn't fix it. Is it possible that the tonic valve is broken?
Did you check for vacuum leaks? Try unplugging Valvetronic position sensor. If the idle improves significally, then you have intake valve opening issue. It could be related to the valvetronic components or rocker arm/lifter. You can also check "rough running" parameters with INPA or N42 compatible obd reader to see if problem is localized to single cylinder.
- chain not engaged on the crankshaft sprocket - crank/vanos bolts not replaced and/or torqued correctly - Vanos units not set in initial locked position during timing
NO! It is explicitly stated in the manual that you must not use it to release the crankshaft bolt. That bolt is really high torque and could also be a little bit seized. The pin is to weak to hold the crankshaft and you will damage the flywheel, locking pin and the engine block!
No point. You will need the locking tools to put the engine back in timing, so you might as well use them to remove the VANOS bolts. Torques in excess of 60 Nm will damage locking pin and the engine block and the VANOS bolts are torqued to more than that.
Πολύ καλό το βίντεο άλλαξε και τα 2 μαγνητικές βαλβίδες αλλά όταν βάζω τα καλούδια το αμαξη μου ρεταρει οταν το αφερω δουλεύει καλά Γαιτι γίνετε αυτό εξήγησε μου σε παρακαλώ !!!!!
Awesome Video but i have a Important Queston please read if possoble‼️ You took it out with The Cam chaft is it Possoble that i unscrew chain tensoner and dont remove then Vanos wheels. I then Unscrew the Valvetronic and lift it up but without the Camchaft it bassicly stays in posotion Could you please tell me if it is possible this Way becausemy motor is Open and i have time stress and not the Special tools there other ethan than I would bassicly make all like in video (Zip tyes ect) for me i think its possoble that the Cam shaft just stays there Could you giveme your opiniom on it
If you remove the valvetronic without the camshaft the valvetronic intermediate levers will fly out under spring tension. There is no realistic way to to this like you describe it.
It's not necessary to insert the flywheel locking pin before removing the VANOS bolts because the camshaft locking tools keep the camshafts in place. You can insert the locking pin at that point but you must not use just the locking pin to remove the VANOS bolts! It is rated for only 60Nm of force.
Hi brauche eure Hilfe wenn Vanos schrauben nicht fest sind und Spezialwerkzeug vorne und hinten angeschraubt ist kann ich die Kurbelwelle drehen bis der stift reinpasst ist das richtig Danke
@@BimmerZen Danke 👍👍 und wenn ich mit Arbeit begine soll der Motor oben totpunkt stehen ? Wollte vorher abstecken deckel abnehmen und schauen ob der Werkzeug auf Nockenwellen passt wenn ja mache ich die einlass Nockenwelle raus
Hard to say. Maybe worn eccentric shaft: th-cam.com/video/uystFxSws-Y/w-d-xo.html but it could be any other thing that involves combustion: coils, injectors, sparkplugs, ... Or damage on valvetronic components, bad DC servomotor. Did you try scanning for error codes (with compatible scanner for your engine/INPA)?
Hi , I've recently replaced chain, tensioner and guides, the car is running rough there is a vibrations that can be felt on the steering and seen on the review mirror. The mechanic confirmed that the timing is correct, when using their diagnostic tool no codes come up. When using INPA I get 2782 camshaft pickup outlet. However the logistics and error counter are both 0. They've clean the solenoids and still does not help. Please assist
@@BimmerZen no vibrations on idle, stays constant around 700rpm. When revving in park there is no vibrations. only when driving the car. I also notice there's no vibrations when I am accelerating hard only after I take my foot off the gas the vibrations start. But if I'm cruising and accelerating the vibrations are there. They do not get worse with speed . I also changed my diff bush about 2months ago so ruled out that. This problem only started after the mechanic changed the timing chain
hi i took out the vanos solenoids in my n46 e90 and cleaned them with contact cleaner and put it back after doing that i have issues with rpm idle i dont see any power loss but now theres sound from the engine and alot rpm idle issue sometimes it gets good mostly it fluctuates so much engine shaking. whats wrong and what i have to do so i can fix it .. please help
@@BimmerZen yeah i double checked everything sometimes no issues with rpm like i start the car no idle issue then rev it it start fluctuating rpm i tried obd for codes i got P0012 P0015 P0013 P0010 and when i turn off the car and turn on again sometimes rpmm fluctuates and sometimes not
Hey man, long time subscriber here. Had a question. 316ti N42b18 engine. Car has been doing weird rpm fluctuations. Like goes 1300 and then 900 and so on. Any suggestions what can IDo
Totaly depends on the experience and tools. DIY with no previous experience, without lift, probably two workind days, with experience and tools, about 4 hours.
People please help!! Bmw e90 n46b20 How to properly vent the cooling system? The refrigerator is new, the pump is new, the thermostat and sensors are new. The pump is mechanical. Until what temperature should I wait? It gets up to 95 degrees for me and I'm still afraid to wait. Which screws to open and which to close? Heating at max Greetings from Croatia!!
So I inherited a very low mileage 316ti which had stood outside for 2 years, the moisture in the engine had pitted the cam and seized solid the valvetronic system. Local BM specialist charged me £200 to diagnose things then told me the engine is shot and the car not worth anything.....cue BIMMERZEN! I ordered a used valvetronic assembly from ebay, stripped it and repositioned the cam, intermediate gear and springs which had shifted in transit and it was good to go. I also changed the chain guides which I suspect may have diminished over the last couple of years, same for the tensioner....I'm not a mechanic, I'm a cook! Without BIMMERZEN this car would be history, as it is we have a beautiful pale green 2004 BMW 316TI with 25000 on the clock which is running like a sewing machine and throwing no codes! THANK YOU BIMMERZEN. Incidentally I used hose clip ratchet pliers together with a spare bolt as an anchor to replace the springs, so easy! Dismantled cleaned and recommissioned in under an hour😊
99.99% of the time it is true that there is a hole in the flywheel. But one time, I worked on a BMW 1 series with an aftermarket clutch & flywheel set without a lock pin hole.
We had to be really creative with a solution for timing. But yeah, 'normally' there would be a hole in the flywheel.
perfect video. make more. you're exactly what we need more of. great job
Thank you very much for the explanation, very clear instructions and a very good image, I will change the valve seals and I am preparing and learning
Thanks for great, detailed video. Stirred up some traumatic memories. A couple of tips that helped me doing this job for valve stem seal replacement:
1) I decided to remove the intake manifold, this is probably a 30min max job and means you don't have to get under the car to access the flywheel locking location
2) After getting the car in N (auto), disconnect battery and then you can safely remove the two 12V cables that cross over the top of the engine so they don't get in the way
3) Not sure if you mentioned it, but you need to use new bolts for camshaft sprockets since they are stretch bolts
Good point. I did try that once, but now "official" way is easier and faster for me because I've done it so many times. I also have a lift which makes it much easier. So for somebody doing this in his or her garage, it might be a very viable option.
And yes, I did mention that the bolts need to be replaced:)
Fantastic video, thanks mate. I just bought the full STL file set - I would have bought the parts themselves, but Australia is a long way away from you, and I have access to many 3D printers. Keep up the great work!
Many thanks for the video. Very detailed and you give good tricks and what could go wrong. Subscribed!
thank you Zen you are a good teacher well explained
Thank you very much for detailed work and information.
I once removed my Valvetronic. Did not have correct zip tie placement. It exploded lol. Putting it back together was not nice. But it worked out. Car drove fine afterwards and still is.
Yh something happen to me other day but I going back up with it all now
Really detailed guide.👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you! From south africa. Waiting for my tool
Excellent video, thank you.
Gran trabajo !! muy detallado!!! GRACIAS!!!
Nice video perfect description 👌 👍 thanks
Update for 2007 - 2009 n46, the intake camshaft no longer has the the rounded end as a reference point for the correct orientation, instead one end is flush with the last lobe and one end is notched, the notched end faces up for correct orientation, exhaust cam is the same as video though.
Thanks a lot my brother
Thank you!!!
Gracias entonces entiendo no ha utilizado el bloqueo de abajo bimassa solo con el kit para la parte superior, es que la junta gasket culata no ha quedado bien tengo que volver atrás un saludo 👋 desde España
Esse serviço vale para troca dos retentores de válvula também 👏
hello, thanks for this perfect video. it is very very helpful to me, i like this blue zip at 40.30 , i had have so many problems with this plastic thing and the lockingpin
I've realized that this is quite a common issue for folks, so I actually made a seperate video on how to disconnect the CCV oil dipstick return hose: th-cam.com/video/gmRjuAEmSbI/w-d-xo.html
Hello. Thank you for this excellent guide. Can I ask do I need to remove the cam shafts and valvetronic system to remove the cylinder head? Thank you.
You the best
I've done this procedure several times but each time the sensor bracket is slightly off and I have to turn intake and exhaust the tiny amount they do move when the camshaft gear sprockets are locked to make it fit. I've used two different timing tools and I'm using your chain pretensioning tool to pretension the chain.
The service manual doesn't say to put back the sensor bracket, only the flywheel pin and camshaft tools. I wonder if it's normal since the timing chain tensioner is inserted when trying, altering the tension on the chain.
Nicely done! Have you done a video on replacing the N42 valvetronic actuator? Is there a part in INPA for the E46/N42 where you "relearn/calibrate" the new actuator? I had a quick look at your other videos but didn't see one. Many thanks for any help.
On the N42 engine (ME9 ECU) there is no manual function to calibrate, as far as I know. It is performed automatically if it detects that the current VVT position is different than the one stored in the memory. So if you change VVT position, just let the ignition key in position 2 for about 10 seconds and it will perform calibration.
@@BimmerZen Thanks very much for your reply. Had already successfully done the job but good to know. Took the added protection of "locking" the worm gear in place with wooden chocks and carefully turned helical shaft in and out to the same place. Another slight finesse to your instructions is to hold the large gasket in place temporarily with zip ties which can be cut out before bolting down. Saves worrying to much about it staying in place especially at the rear. Make sure you cut the right part though so it all comes out at once! String would work also I guess.
Pls show how to only replace the upper chain guide pls…..❤❤❤❤
Comprei arquivo das peças para trocar retentores, muitas boas , mas esse tensionador , complicou pôs você não falou em qual material fez , pôs quase morro de tentar por a corrente no ponto
Can you swap the n46 engine with a manual gearbox to an n52
Good
Um mecânico falou que usou os mesmos parafusos dos vanus , tô pensando em reusar , o que me fala ?
Hi, you mentioned that you did this particular job to verify rough running on one of the cylinders, will you make a followup video on this topic on what you found? Or maybe there was no difference?
I'm curious about the valvetronic system and how it can wear out.
I'm working on that video for some time now... the engine still feels like it has some roughness. I've reset the adaptations and I still need to drive the car a little bit for everything to settle. Currently the nr 4 cylinder is better, but the roughness moved to other cylinders.
Hi! issue is from solenoid admision. They must have 3mm moving..you can open solenoid...in front of solenoid they are a cap that can be removed...take the spring and bracket out and check it
Interesting insight, but I can't really understand how is this related to the video?
Hi. what is doing that rattle when you started the engine. My car rattles every cold start.
Hola zen tienes que hacer un video de fugas en la tapa o conductos bujías es un problema muy habitual ,he cambiado la junta sigue perdiendo, compro tapa nueva junta nueva ,siempre mucho aceite nuevo cae en el colector ,cuando aceleró más pierde mucho humo ahí delante gracias un saludo 👋
Gracias por su sugerencia. ¿Reemplazaste los sellos de la bomba de vacío? Es una fuga muy común y el aceite gotea directamente sobre el colector de escape y provoca humo y olor a quemado de aceite aproximadamente 1 minuto después del arranque...
@@BimmerZen si los puse nuevos originales bmw
Hi man, i have a question about the camshaft Voltage input on n46b20 shouldn't be 5v for the signal ? And 12v ? for the input in my car i have 11.89v i guess i have a short
Thanks for your videos! I just wanted to comment that the proper timing procedureof the N42/46 engines includes (according to BMW TIS) also fixation of the position of counterbalance shafts which requires to take out the oil sump. The correct adjustment/fication of counterbalance shafts is critical especially for 4 cylinder engines. As I do not see this in your video I wonder if you have any other trick how to fix lower part with short chain driving oil pump and counterbalance shafts as this gets loose (even if the flywheel is locked) when the central bolt of the crankshaft is released
You need to align the balancing shafts only if the crankshaft bolt is released. In this video, the crankshaft bolt does not need to be released.
@@BimmerZen yep...that is absolutely correct....central bolt has not been released in this specific video.I had in my mind some older video on exchange of timing chain. Anyway- it is a little( but importont detail) which I wanted to highlight for other "N46 timing chain adventurers". Otherwise all you vidos are fantastic and I am a fan of your channel
@@salajovi there is a section in the video where I time the balancing shafts: th-cam.com/video/GVZqbvtp0VE/w-d-xo.html
Excellent detailed video,have you considered putting the updated n46n camshaft and intake manifold for more power?
Thanks for the guides - I have a problem,I only want to change the spark plug tubes in cyl 2 and 3 which are under the valvetronic. My spark plugs are getting wet. Is there a way to do it without disturbing valvetronic motor? I don't have any special tools
Unfortunately no:( they are sandwiched between cylinder head and valvetronic bracket...
is it possible to remove the head with the valvetronic in place
Hello! Awesome video! I have bmw e91 n46
I have check engine on valvetronic. Can I change just a valvetronic-motor?
Yes, but how do you know the servomotor is faulty?
Such a great and detailed video! Do you use any repair manual?
Yes, and some practical experience:)
Hi sir
Greating from Indonesia
I have problem on my bmw e90 LCI 2012
2847 : DME, Valvetronic Serrvo Motor, Electric
2863 : DME, Valvetronic , Power Limitation
What should i do to fix those problems?
Would you want to help?
Thank you 🙏
I have a 2015 bmw n20 engine would it cause a low compression issue?
The main isue with theese types of engine is temp junction. The wather opening valve is factory set to opet at 105C that is simpley too hot for this type of engine. If its possible i dont know to replace and remode the opening valve to lets say 94-95c it would be nice.
How much do you charge for theese plastick tools.
I could try this to do my self because the shops charges too much money for rubber seals replecament.
I done this job without special tools
Hi wie steht der Motor bei begin der Arbeit am Vanos muß es am OT stehen ?????? Es gibt auch UT oder Motor steht in der Mitte kann bitte da jemand etwas nächer eingehen möchte Einlass Nockenwelle und Exenterwelle tauschen. Es geht mir nur wie soll der Motor am Anfang stehen wenn OT 1. zylinder muß oben stehen und der Stift an der Getriebe muß reingesteckt werden. Bitte um eine Antwort möchte loslegen
bmw 2A67 code come history after engine on and car work normal , can you help me
I want small timing kit how much
Hi guys. I had a little leak coming from the eccentric shaft actuator gasket. I bought a new gasket but when I removed the 2 bolts, one of them came out with the insert as well. Is there a way to glue back the metal insert inside the plastic rocker cover? Thanks
Very common issue. People torque those two bolts too much and the brass insert breaks from the plastic valve cover. The solution is to use a strong soldering iron and heat up the brass insert until it is hot enough to melt the plastic. Then carefully press the insert back in to the hole in the valve cover, making sure that insert is surrounded by melted plastic (th-cam.com/video/G-UF4tv3Hvc/w-d-xo.html). This solution worked well for me. Make sure you don't torque the two bolts more than 6Nm.
On my N46 the inlet and outlet °KW are different. Outlet is 120°KW and Inlet is 80°KW. engine shows no failure ... does anyone know why it is different?!
Comprei , ainda tenho que calibrar , minha nossa 😢
man.. can you show how to relearn valtronic limit position on this engine (n42/n46) with ISTA plz
N42 initializes on it's own. N46 has an initialization function, but I don't think I will work on a car with N46 engine in the near future:)
Then how to I relearn the valvtronic limit on my e90 n46 sir. Plz help me
Salut motorul are un tremurat nu se accelereaza cum trebuie si cu rateuri in admisie ce poate fi vvt?
My car is currently at the shop for misfiring and stalling after changing the vanos solonoid o rings, oiled them, put them back in the right way, right connectors. Solonoids were working fine beforehand just leaking oil.
Mechanic said they're working but the solonoids are out of timing and haven't "learned" they've reprogrammed them and reset. Still not working. Do you know what the problem could be?
I know these cars can be pretty complex.
Thanks.
Cairo.
Did you check that the solenoids are connected correctly? It's possible to mix up intake and exhaust solenoid connectors. Take a look here to see how they are connected on the N42: th-cam.com/video/QMfCeTXDsl8/w-d-xo.html
I done this job to my N42, new timing belt and new ecentric shaft position sensor. Should I do now some valvetronic calibration or something else, or engine will do that by its own?
N42 will calibrate itself.
@@BimmerZen Nice! Thank you for your answer! :)
The engine vibrates when idling. I changed the coils, spark plugs, and injectors but it still doesn't fix it. Is it possible that the tonic valve is broken?
Did you check for vacuum leaks?
Try unplugging Valvetronic position sensor. If the idle improves significally, then you have intake valve opening issue. It could be related to the valvetronic components or rocker arm/lifter.
You can also check "rough running" parameters with INPA or N42 compatible obd reader to see if problem is localized to single cylinder.
berapa ukuran pin untuk mengunci roda gigi tersebut?
I have a 2015 528i installed timing chain guide tensioner and it's skip timing what's wrong
- chain not engaged on the crankshaft sprocket
- crank/vanos bolts not replaced and/or torqued correctly
- Vanos units not set in initial locked position during timing
Good video, if I need to remove crankshaft bolt, is the flywheel lock pin strong enough to hold ? I know mini have a tool to hold too?
NO! It is explicitly stated in the manual that you must not use it to release the crankshaft bolt. That bolt is really high torque and could also be a little bit seized. The pin is to weak to hold the crankshaft and you will damage the flywheel, locking pin and the engine block!
@@BimmerZen Thanks! what about the cam bolts?
No point. You will need the locking tools to put the engine back in timing, so you might as well use them to remove the VANOS bolts. Torques in excess of 60 Nm will damage locking pin and the engine block and the VANOS bolts are torqued to more than that.
Πολύ καλό το βίντεο άλλαξε και τα 2 μαγνητικές βαλβίδες αλλά όταν βάζω τα καλούδια το αμαξη μου ρεταρει οταν το αφερω δουλεύει καλά Γαιτι γίνετε αυτό εξήγησε μου σε παρακαλώ !!!!!
Awesome Video but i have a Important Queston please read if possoble‼️
You took it out with The Cam chaft is it Possoble that i unscrew chain tensoner and dont remove then Vanos wheels.
I then Unscrew the Valvetronic and lift it up but without the Camchaft it bassicly stays in posotion
Could you please tell me if it is possible this Way becausemy motor is Open and i have time stress and not the Special tools there other ethan than I would bassicly make all like in video (Zip tyes ect) for me i think its possoble that the Cam shaft just stays there
Could you giveme your opiniom on it
If you remove the valvetronic without the camshaft the valvetronic intermediate levers will fly out under spring tension. There is no realistic way to to this like you describe it.
Hello why don’t I have to block the flywheel first before even removing the first Vanos bolds? Best regards
It's not necessary to insert the flywheel locking pin before removing the VANOS bolts because the camshaft locking tools keep the camshafts in place. You can insert the locking pin at that point but you must not use just the locking pin to remove the VANOS bolts! It is rated for only 60Nm of force.
Hi brauche eure Hilfe wenn Vanos schrauben nicht fest sind und Spezialwerkzeug vorne und hinten angeschraubt ist kann ich die Kurbelwelle drehen bis der stift reinpasst ist das richtig Danke
Yes: th-cam.com/video/lfXQMHYGZLA/w-d-xo.html
@@BimmerZen Danke 👍👍 und wenn ich mit Arbeit begine soll der Motor oben totpunkt stehen ? Wollte vorher abstecken deckel abnehmen und schauen ob der Werkzeug auf Nockenwellen passt wenn ja mache ich die einlass Nockenwelle raus
Is the vanos unit keyed to the cam? What keeps it from spinning on the cam, with only a center bolt?
It's not keyed. It is timed with locking tools and then tightened in place with the center bolt.
@@BimmerZen Thank you! But there must be a pin? Only friction from the torque of the center bolt maintains the position?
@@kidsteach938 Yes, only friction. There is no pin:)
do you know of any issue of misfire on low end revvs and fine on high revs buit if i rev slowly itll rev out fine all the way through
Hard to say. Maybe worn eccentric shaft: th-cam.com/video/uystFxSws-Y/w-d-xo.html but it could be any other thing that involves combustion: coils, injectors, sparkplugs, ... Or damage on valvetronic components, bad DC servomotor. Did you try scanning for error codes (with compatible scanner for your engine/INPA)?
Hi , I've recently replaced chain, tensioner and guides, the car is running rough there is a vibrations that can be felt on the steering and seen on the review mirror. The mechanic confirmed that the timing is correct, when using their diagnostic tool no codes come up. When using INPA I get 2782 camshaft pickup outlet. However the logistics and error counter are both 0. They've clean the solenoids and still does not help.
Please assist
Does the car vibrate on idle and gets better when increasing revs? Are vibrations corelated to the revs? Are vibrations only present in idle?
@@BimmerZen no vibrations on idle, stays constant around 700rpm. When revving in park there is no vibrations. only when driving the car. I also notice there's no vibrations when I am accelerating hard only after I take my foot off the gas the vibrations start. But if I'm cruising and accelerating the vibrations are there. They do not get worse with speed .
I also changed my diff bush about 2months ago so ruled out that.
This problem only started after the mechanic changed the timing chain
hi i took out the vanos solenoids in my n46 e90 and cleaned them with contact cleaner and put it back after doing that i have issues with rpm idle i dont see any power loss but now theres sound from the engine and alot rpm idle issue sometimes it gets good mostly it fluctuates so much engine shaking. whats wrong and what i have to do so i can fix it .. please help
Did you accidentaly mix up the intake and exhaust connectors?
Also, did you make sure that the solenoids are all the way in and there is no vacuum leaks on the outer orings?
@@BimmerZen yeah i double checked everything
sometimes no issues with rpm like i start the car no idle issue then rev it it start fluctuating rpm i tried obd for codes i got P0012 P0015 P0013 P0010
and when i turn off the car and turn on again sometimes rpmm fluctuates and sometimes not
Can the engine run good with damage valvetronic roller bearing and caps
Depends on the damage. You can get away with a bit of pitting, but not so much with worn surfaces.
I made a short video on the N46 engine with corrosion damage that worked just fine: th-cam.com/users/shortstY9KdNR65dg?si=wYUQZX7wwopeMQP1
Hi kann man das kline Werkzeug bei ihnen kaufen womit man die 0,6 Nm anziehen kann … wenn ja wie
Yes, available on my webstore: bimmerzen.com/store
Hey man, long time subscriber here. Had a question. 316ti N42b18 engine. Car has been doing weird rpm fluctuations. Like goes 1300 and then 900 and so on. Any suggestions what can IDo
I suggest you scan for errors with INPA or N42 compatible scanner. I would check for vacuum leaks first...
@@BimmerZenb
i put the intake locking tool on, but now the exhaust one doesn’t sit flush with the engine
Did you check if both VANOS units are locked in initial position?
Hello, are you planning to sell this camshaft holder 3d files? I am planning to do valve stem seal replacement on August.
I'm going to include them in the VSCT 3D model STL files kit.
Hey, how Long does it take for the whole process?
Totaly depends on the experience and tools. DIY with no previous experience, without lift, probably two workind days, with experience and tools, about 4 hours.
What is the name of the software ( BMW ) you are using on your laptop
INPA
People please help!!
Bmw e90 n46b20
How to properly vent the cooling system?
The refrigerator is new, the pump is new, the thermostat and sensors are new. The pump is mechanical.
Until what temperature should I wait?
It gets up to 95 degrees for me and I'm still afraid to wait.
Which screws to open and which to close?
Heating at max
Greetings from Croatia!!
Contact me on my channel's info email and i'll send you official instructions.
Hi I'm sammy I have e46 I have problem with timing venos position
Thanks i learned something from you
42:35 Definitely don't want to engage the wrong hole.
Do you sell the 6nm torque tool?
Yes: bimmerzen.com/store
Perfect video but old underwear very funny 🤣🤣
All this nonsense complicated these recent cars,old cars were brief and easy to manage
This is why a 4 cyl cannot make 200 000 kms without major repairs. Over complicated weaknesses
@@andrewdarakis8807 unless it's japanese
Ici ich 🫲😎🫱