Great video! It helps me with removing the torsion tension on my '99 4x4 Dakota. I'm rebuilding the front suspension and removed everything except the lower control arms, sway bar and the torsion bars...Thank you for posting!
This make the remove process more smooth, eliminating the presure on the adjusment bolt is more safe for prevent bolt damage. Something very importand to add on this video, count the threads on the bolt or measure the lenght with a caliper for make sure after being reinstall you left the same adjusment that was before, otherwise your truck can be lifted more on one side to the other or it will be lower or higher than the back end. :-)
Furthermore after watching a few seconds of your video. I now understand what your problem came at with the two jaw puller. If you would have replaced your torsion bar keys. You would have come to find out that the new torsion bar keys also come with a torsion bar key removal tool. And it only cost an extra $10 in the kit
What kind of tool is that? Looks like a gear puller? I can’t find a torsion puller from dakotas around me. I tried the gm tool from auto parts store and it it’s is small
Can you remove the crossmember to lower the transmission out without messing with the torsion bars at all? My transmission has a crossmember underneath it that hooks up to the torsion bars and I need to take it off without having that torsion bar effected at all. Looks like it should be okay but idk
Wow man …lol…simplification at work here bro ! I see kooks using wood , c clamps , bottle jacks engine double slaps and even hard drugs to get these keys out 🤪 This is the best method I’ve watched yet ! Thanks for sharing
AhPhoey the torsion bar goes through the arm. You may not need to do this step but it may make it easier because you won't have the tension on the arm.
Use something like this. www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Unloading-Removal-Torsion-Bar/dp/B076DXKRL3/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=torsion+key+tool&qid=1590243278&sr=8-3
Now I do have to make a comment that makes more sense. You failed to tell the people that if you're going to try this repair make sure you use the correct tool. As your two job puller tool that is currently attached to the sides wings of that support mount. It's on the thinnest piece of metal in an attempt to raise the torsion bar that is holding the front quarter of your 5000 lb pickup truck level. Always pay attention to the tension.😊 Let viewers be aware. If you attempt to try the same method he used in this video you could run into a problem where those two wings of the support bracket holding the torsion bar bend downward while you're trying to jack up and tighten that down and if they do you run the risk and it's snapping off and hitting you in the face as you're likely not on a lift and underneath your vehicle face up laying on your back
That being said I like to save money too on tools. Because you did need to torsion bar keys it would have came with the tool however if you were trying to do this with just what you have in the garage a larger three-jaw puller using one jar on the back side of the torsion key and two jaws over top of the entire torsion bar mount assembly on the thickest part of the metal would have been a much safer bet
Yeah I just wanted to say my first impression from the very first photograph on this video was we should re-label this. It should have been called how to replace a torsion bar key. When the part that you're removing is so rusted you can hardly identify it it's time to replace it
Use the correct tool made for this. Use the special tool to provide the lifting using the adjustment bolt only as a settings keeper. This stops the stripping of the factory bolt as it is not made for this.
Yeah you don't use a 2 jaw puller or a torque wrench to remove bolts. The tension can break the 2 jaw puller and seriously injure or kill you. Get a torsion key unloader tool from Amazon.
Rusty dry bolt forced out, rusty dry bolt ground back in.......bro, I have penetrating oil and spare antisieze I can send you some, I appreciate the video, truly, but let’s teach things a little better......and with a tourque wrench??
I can't trust someone who used a torque wrench to loosen up a bolt
Steve It stopped working properly years ago... So now I just use it as a regular wrench when I need some more leverage...
Use whatever tools are necessary! or whatever gets the job done. Thanks for the video!
@@BlaserBuilds okay good to know
@@BlaserBuilds my apologies 🤝
@@DownSouthSteve a 3yr late apology is better than no apology ... lol!
Great video! It helps me with removing the torsion tension on my '99 4x4 Dakota. I'm rebuilding the front suspension and removed everything except the lower control arms, sway bar and the torsion bars...Thank you for posting!
BEST TORSION VIDEO ACTUALLY SHOWNING HOW IT IS ADJUSTED YET!!! GREAT VIDEO! THANK YOU! NEW SUB. THUMBS UP!!!
I wanted to see you remove that rusty torsion bar and key
does the truck need to be on stands? trying to see if this is something I feel like tackling myself or if its worth the shop fee.
How did you get the puller to stay straight?
That’s what I was thinking I can’t get mine to stay straight
This make the remove process more smooth, eliminating the presure on the adjusment bolt is more safe for prevent bolt damage. Something very importand to add on this video, count the threads on the bolt or measure the lenght with a caliper for make sure after being reinstall you left the same adjusment that was before, otherwise your truck can be lifted more on one side to the other or it will be lower or higher than the back end. :-)
Do it also go for a 07 Yukon ,because on my truck it leans on the passenger side real bad
Furthermore after watching a few seconds of your video. I now understand what your problem came at with the two jaw puller. If you would have replaced your torsion bar keys. You would have come to find out that the new torsion bar keys also come with a torsion bar key removal tool. And it only cost an extra $10 in the kit
What kind of tool is that? Looks like a gear puller? I can’t find a torsion puller from dakotas around me. I tried the gm tool from auto parts store and it it’s is small
It's just a regular 2 jaw puller.
Can you remove the crossmember to lower the transmission out without messing with the torsion bars at all? My transmission has a crossmember underneath it that hooks up to the torsion bars and I need to take it off without having that torsion bar effected at all. Looks like it should be okay but idk
The rust really helps hold everything in place. This is nearly impossible with a 2 jaw puller, everything just slides around
I’m having that problem putting the key back in the puller moves to the side to much
Wow man …lol…simplification at work here bro ! I see kooks using wood , c clamps , bottle jacks engine double slaps and even hard drugs to get these keys out 🤪 This is the best method I’ve watched yet ! Thanks for sharing
Does one have to do anything with the torsion keys / bars when replacing the lower control arms?
AhPhoey the torsion bar goes through the arm. You may not need to do this step but it may make it easier because you won't have the tension on the arm.
Yes. They torsion bar is basically the spring. Take the bolts out and bad things happen.
Take bars off first or u may end up without a face.
Can you please send me a link of that tool (gear puller) I need to order one to change my torsion bar
Search for 2 jaw puller, or you can rent them from auto parts stores.
a21bravo What size puller did you use?
Use something like this.
www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Unloading-Removal-Torsion-Bar/dp/B076DXKRL3/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=torsion+key+tool&qid=1590243278&sr=8-3
Now I do have to make a comment that makes more sense. You failed to tell the people that if you're going to try this repair make sure you use the correct tool. As your two job puller tool that is currently attached to the sides wings of that support mount. It's on the thinnest piece of metal in an attempt to raise the torsion bar that is holding the front quarter of your 5000 lb pickup truck level. Always pay attention to the tension.😊 Let viewers be aware. If you attempt to try the same method he used in this video you could run into a problem where those two wings of the support bracket holding the torsion bar bend downward while you're trying to jack up and tighten that down and if they do you run the risk and it's snapping off and hitting you in the face as you're likely not on a lift and underneath your vehicle face up laying on your back
That being said I like to save money too on tools. Because you did need to torsion bar keys it would have came with the tool however if you were trying to do this with just what you have in the garage a larger three-jaw puller using one jar on the back side of the torsion key and two jaws over top of the entire torsion bar mount assembly on the thickest part of the metal would have been a much safer bet
No counting the number of turns?
Thank you!! You helped us out!!
Great video, but you missed the entire point, yo never go the torsion key out, it's rusted to the torsion bar which is also rusted into the LCA.
Thanks for posting this video! I found it helpful. I hope you're doing well.
you can pull the bolt out first, the keeper will keep the key in still
Yeah I just wanted to say my first impression from the very first photograph on this video was we should re-label this. It should have been called how to replace a torsion bar key. When the part that you're removing is so rusted you can hardly identify it it's time to replace it
Use the correct tool made for this. Use the special tool to provide the lifting using the adjustment bolt only as a settings keeper. This stops the stripping of the factory bolt as it is not made for this.
Thanks for the information. Make life easy for yourself and get some power tools.
Yeah you don't use a 2 jaw puller or a torque wrench to remove bolts. The tension can break the 2 jaw puller and seriously injure or kill you. Get a torsion key unloader tool from Amazon.
Takes to long to arrive and I see a lot of people using the puller also the amazon key is like 89$
You need to invest in a impact wrench i got a kobalt 24 volt impact and its the best 200$ i ever spent makes suspension jobs a.piece of cake
Great video
That's fine if your cross member has a flange on each side. With no flange,no puller.
Nice, just what I needed to know. Thanks
awesome thanks
C-clamp large size take a hammer knock off the tip of the c-clamp threaded pin. You've made the tool yourself
Rusty dry bolt forced out, rusty dry bolt ground back in.......bro, I have penetrating oil and spare antisieze I can send you some, I appreciate the video, truly, but let’s teach things a little better......and with a tourque wrench??
my guess he was using it for the leverage over a standard ratchet
Holy Sea Salt Batman! That much rust. SCCRAAAAAAAAAP!
That how we roll up here in the tundra
Omfg, boys and girls this is a good example not to use a torque wrench! LoL
This was addressed in previous comments 5 years ago...
@@BlaserBuilds LoL and then!
@@GeoTrashPanda So the comment is irrelevant because it's not a torque wrench.... yay...
try taking it off next round
Buy some tool using a torque wrench as a ratchet hope you don't need it for nothing fuck up the spring inside it
He said in the comments it wasn't good for torqueing anymore.
Torque wrenches dont make good breaker bars
Trust me, it's not hurting anything.
Nothing but the tool and his pride lmao
Why not if its not good for torqueing anymore? He already said it was bad. Seems like a good use for it.
Just that rust mobile
All of this is wrong
rust wagon.
Bulshit no way you was going to get that key off