Appreciate your detailed explanation on cause and effect on the components you were checking. Also the torque specs and one time use bolt explanation was important. Your thoroughness is what is needed. Thanks so very much!
12:20 This is why I installed an oil catch can between the valve cover PCV line and the air-box. During the summer months the can didn't collect much of anything, but when the weather turned colder... WOW. I work from home so I don't do a lot of driving these days, but I did make a 10 hour round trip around thanksgiving. I checked the catch can the other day, and it was full to the top of a nasty yellow foamy gunk. I recommend to anyone with a 2.4L Ecotec (or any DI engine for that matter) put a catch can in your PCV system.
That’s crazy! I ran across this mod before but I’ve never seen or heard real life experience from it. Winter would make sense with the amount of humidity/condensation that forms in the engine before getting up to temp. Again with ring seal issues it just gets worse! I might have to look into doing this myself. Thanks for the comment cswann8.
@@buffmotorsports4460 Quick question. I have a 2012 Terrain 2.4l and about 2 weeks ago, out of the blue I started getting P0016/P0017 codes (timing correlation) that immediately reappear when cleared along with a rough idle. A shop confirmed this morning the timing is off mechanically. Thing is I'm at 146K miles and the previous owner had the timing chain assembly replaced at 135k...and the weirdest thing is the chain guide on top that runs along the chain as it travels between the 2 cam sprockets is missing. The bracket is there, but the lip that folds over 90 degrees that they plastic guide attaches to is not there. It's like someone took the bracket and put it in a vice and cut the lip off so that the chain is moving through air with nothing to slap against if there is some slop in the chain. I think this may have been some shady shops "fix" for noise from a chain that was a little loose. In any case that top chain guide is getting replaced with a new part. My question is, I think I can just drain the oil, remove the valve cover and timing cover and rotate the engine to TDC and visually see the timing problem just using the timing marks and colored chain links. If I see that one of the cam sprockets jumped a tooth and is now off, I should be able to rotate it back in line with the timing markers and get everything back in time right?
@cswann8 That’s about the gist of things. You’ll need to pull the chain tensioner out of the back side of the block, “reset” it and I believe you’ll gain enough slack in the chain to get it to slip a tooth. I would say go ahead and order a new tensioner to be safe, mine was stuck collapsed and the resetting procedure involves disassembly of the tensioner, not something I’d attempt without specific instructions - which I’m sure you can dig up. Paint marks should line up, some chain sets used a colored chain link, which are hard to spot so rotate the engine back and forwarth to see if you can find them before attempting to slip the chain. Once at TDC, avoid turning the cams too much and do not turn the crank until you know your chain it set. It’s pretty easy to bend a valve. The cast Hexes in the cams should help, you’ll need to take the load against the chain off to achieve your goal and manipulate the cam phaser/sprocket into place. Don’t forget the possibility of the cam solenoids. They could be installed or even hooked up incorrectly as well. Assuming the car was purchased recently with these codes present?
Funny, we have the same unit... we maintain the hell out of it. It now has a touch under 127,000 and we're going to change the timing chain and guides. Been a fine vehicle and I'm not gentle on 'er at all, we bought it to drive and by god she gets driven. Never revved into the redline though.
It’s good to “clean them out” now and again. Obviously continuously beating on it is going to result in added wear and tear but, if it wasn’t meant to rev to 6,000 rpm GM would’ve set the limiter lower than that 🤣 My wife only has to drive 12-15 mins to and from work which are some of the toughest conditions. Ex. Barely getting warm enough to go into closed loop exhaust gas correction, surely isn’t hot enough to steam off any vapor or condensation, and then a lot of light throttle driving. Oil always smells like fuel and ends up almost a nasty brown when dropped. Poor piston ring seal, PCV system sucks, and low operating temps we undoubtedly end up with diluted and contaminated oil by the time the 3,000 mile mark. So, I use full synthetic and treat it like conventional and change it “early”. Light money on fire, and repeat.
We just did our chain at 189k miles. We had metal that wrapped around the cam sensor and were quoted 8 grand to replace the engine. We put a new chain on, drained the oil and sent it. I hate these Ecotecs. They are 3 grand more expensive than the new Equinox 1.8l motors
I drive a 2012 Captiva 2.4 in Germany (LE9 engine version). When replacing the timing chain components it's best to use an upgraded front guide with upgraded fixing bolts, obtainable in the US. A new tensioner should always be fitted and oil changes at max.10,000km.
I appreciate the kind words! I’ve never held an official title of “master mechanic” so I never see myself as one. But, my initial career path led me to obtain at least 2 ASE certifications as I was graduating college. Those have since lapsed because I went more to the industrial diesel side. 12 years later and now I manage a fluctuating team size and probably oversee the maintenance and repair of close to 40mil in equipment. Critical part of the job is being able to guide and break down repairs into manageable tasks. This may look daunting but, there’s enough info here that with the right tools and some time and patience the repair isn’t that bad. Best of luck!
😂😂 I always say once u become a homeowner, u can't pay for everything to get fix gotta get hands on , I been building bikes , hooking up home stereos , and doing small engines since I was at least 10 just watching grown ups around me , and its definitely a blessing , u can do it ! 💪🏿😎🤟🏿💯🔥💰
At least on the G5 7 the hhr, Your suppose to be able to slide a piece of wood between the engine & a lower frame rail, I am about to do the timing chains on my G5 2.2 VIN-F when it arrives!
Thanks for the comment and positive feedback Chad. The dirty cowl was a calculated risk lol. I picked a few pieces of debris out of the top end before covering it with a shirt the wife had laying in the garage (spoiler, she wasn’t happy about it 🤣) The wind would pick up and the tree itself was the issue. Sometimes leaving stuff well bedded alone is the best action. The tree is no longer an issue, I cut it down 🤷🏼♂️
We are preparing to do this replacement on our GMC Terrain, can you tell me the exact kit you bought from Rockauto because there are many out there and they all included different things. Thanks so much, the video is great!
If it’s not in part 1, part 2 has the kit and numbers I used for this job. I replaced the chains and guides on the balance shafts as well as the timing chain and chain phasers. Different part numbers and kits will be for different model years so be sure you have the right kit for your year and engine. Also, kit variations could include things another kit doesn’t.
BG makes a fantastic oil flush system It’s a little pricey but it does an amazing job There are videos on TH-cam showing how to use it and before and after results I mean it cleans it 98%
All of the 2.4L GM motors have timing chain issues. If you have one go ahead and schedule your mechanic to replace the chain. This should occur at about the 100k to 110k mile mark on your odometer. If you don't, you will be looking at head work in addition to replacing the chain and related components. Worst case scenario engine overhaul.
Last I knew GM didn’t acknowledge the timing chains as an actionable issue like they did regarding the ring seal issues. Wrap your head around this - if you were lucky and got new pistons/rings due to the class action lawsuit it doesn’t cover the chain, guides and tensioners so, they don’t replace the timing components at the time of service. You could have bought and opted for them to install them while it was torn apart but you’d just be putting fast cash in their pockets. They’re going to charge by the book even though they’d already have it disassembled and have to time/reassemble it anyways during the recall.
I'VE GOT THE NOISE YOU RECORDED WHEN STARTING THE MOTOR. ALSO IF ACCELERATOR IS DEPRESSED NOISE GETS LOUDER. ANY IDEA HOW LONG BEFORE I FRY THE ENGINE? INSTALLED BG OIL ADDITIVE AND NOISE WENT DOWN.
Good video and thanks for including the parts you order and where you got them.. I ordered the timing chain kit from Rockauto (thank you) and the balance kit from my local auto store (O'Reillys) and it was the same 9-4202S. But after visiting Cloyes website and contacting Cloyes rep. they said the part number 9-4202S is not for my vehicle (2012 chevy equinox 2.4l). I will need the 9-4202SA. Cloyes told me that the only difference is the tensioner. Did you have any problem with the tensioner from the 9-4202S kit? thanks. JC
This was a 2012. The tensioner I installed did look a bit different than the OEM part, but there are always revisions to parts for improvement, etc. so I didn’t think too much into it. Did Cloyes mention the differences in the tensioner? The one in this kit seems to be working well.
@Juan, I have to correct my previous comment. The tensioner that was different from the OEM part for me was the timing chain tensioner, not the balance chain tensioner. To the best of my recollection, there wasn’t anything that jumped out at me being different and again; the tensioner seems to be doing fine. I searched both part numbers and the images don’t appear to show any noticeable differences... not that that means anything.
Just got mine replaced in my 2017 Terrain but should I change the oil 2k miles instead of 3k? Also if I use ECO drive setting it burns up my Camshaft sensor. Had that happen on my 2015 and my 2017 when I would drive on ECO
Any GMC dealership will fix this for free as long as it was a 2010-2013 model year. They all had this issue. Just took mine in last week for the same problem.
Better put your dealership information out there for everyone to go get their work done at! Any time I inquired they were very firm about the oil consumption statute of limitations and never acknowledged the timing chain issue. I specifically asked if and during the piston and re-ring service whether they changed the timing chains. Their response was “it’s not covered in the scope of the repair” but would install the parts if purchased separately. Which is a shame because 80% of this repair is addressed while torn down to rectify the oil consumption issues addressed in the lawsuit. Glad to hear you got yours taken care of and hope they’re treating everyone else just as good!
@@buffmotorsports4460 I had to get a brand new engine. The timing chain jumped and slapped around in the compartment and damaged the engine. This damage was a result of high oil consumption. I had just got the oil changed in April and by july the timing chain broke rendering my car useless. Because of high oil consumption the parts were no longer being lubricated and I never got a change engine oil light or any other indicator letting me know to change the oil again. So while the lawsuit didnt specify timing chain, it does say if your engine had to be replaced due to the oil consumption issue you can be reimbursed or have a new engine installed without paying anything.
My S4. 4.2 ltr has tensioner issues. They made them of plastic I changed them out to metal. We just got a terrain as a sect unit. Love the SUV and the style. Are the tensions plastic like in mys4
These are Aluminum with a plastic cover. Unsure of the composition but as a general term they use “plastic” to prolong life of the chain, slides, and quiet the system down all together. Depending on age and the amount of chain slap due to tensioner issues, it’s not an uncommon failure for the plastic to release from the aluminum. Majority of the time, this doesn’t happen. This 2.4 can have issues with one of the tensioner pivot bolts failing. That’s almost certain valve contact.
I read in the description about the 2015 model. We recently purchased a 2015 2.4l Terrain. I’ve been concerned about timing chain issues considering it’s an interference engine. Is this a common issue I should be worried about?
Hey Koricc! Keep up with your oil changes and an eye on your oil level and all should be good. GM made a correction in production that should have eliminated this issue for the 15 - up mode year. There’s always the potential for a freak occurrence, but the timing chain issues are usually a result from oil consumption causing low and dropped oil pressures. (I’ve also seen accusations of the low oil warning not working cause total engine failures) Personally I believe the timing chains were made of soft materials. V-6’s are also notorious for the timing noise. Best you can do is familiarize yourself with your cars “normal” sounds so you can tell when something changes, and keep up with the general maintenance - also so you can notice when something changes. Best of luck!
I will say... I’ll hand it to GM, it isn’t a terrible job to do with the engine in the vehicle and even without a lift. I will say though; if the small steel cover that is over the water pump gear - if it isn’t leaking, don’t disturb it. That has been my only issue since this video. I changed the oil and the timing cover was wet from that cover leaking. If you do reseal it, use some gasket maker. Ultra black or the “right stuff”. Cummins 🤘🏼It’s not a fancy one but it’s a good one.
Hey Freddy, how did you make out with your timing chain replacement? Also, I added a video of the Cummins, nothing terribly special but you get to see a little more of what’s going on with the truck and my set up - if you’re interested!
Did my timing and chain and guides at 150 Kms, but still have a death rattle at 1800 rpm especially on decel ,sounds like chain hitting cover (loosing tension) or a wrist pin kinda double knock ,any one have similar symptoms before I pull the pan and head and start popping pistons out ? Thank you,roger
I have a 2013 with 205,000 miles on it. It's been serviced with oil changes every 3 months since it was new. The only thing I've had to do is replace the serpentine belt. It's been a great vehicle and a blessing because I was hit by an uninsured driver and I didn't have full coverage on my Pacifica. This was all I could afford. I bought it when it was 2 years old from a dealer and all the records were with it. I've kept up maintenance and we're still going. My son is disabled so it makes lots of long trips to hospitals. Other than that were homebodies. They really are great trucks.
The vehicle was very sluggish and lost a bunch of low-end power. It picked back up in higher rpms but having a good hunch of what was going on at that time I really didn’t want to rev the car out more than needed. Being an interference engine if it would have jumped timing my repair would have cost a ton more than just my time and a few hundred bucks.
My wife had a check engine light come on today and she told me her engine was knocking. Shocked at hearing this I went out and drove it down the road and sure enough at lower RPM you can here what clearly sounds like it knocking. It runs rough all the sudden at idle which I figured a misfire is the culprit and caused the check engine light. I was right and Autozone said the code is p0300 which is multi cylinder misfire and said their system said its most likely a VCT solenoid or VVT solenoid. To me, I don't think those would cause this noise although it did start immediately after the check engine light. So I was going to try spark plugs and solenoids BUT after seeing your video I think it might have timing chain issue. has 114k miles so it's probably due for a chain anyway. Any insight?
Dy2 Str33t-King what year 2.4 are we talking about in this scenario? Multi cylinder misfire code being present could mean something simple like spark plugs, or even bad fuel so, no need to assume the worst right away. Now if it jumped time resulting in the uneven idle, perhaps even a misfire - it should have a code/fault present for cam position/angle or VVT efficiency type of code. If the car is older than 2015, I would plan on a timing chain and tensioner service, but would definitely start with the spark plugs and dry gas treatment or a similar product. Be sure to use OEM like AC Delco. This coil over plug system doesn’t favor the iridium plated/tipped spark plugs.
@@buffmotorsports4460 It's a 2013 and I bought NGK plugs today but haven't installed them yet. If I have to use AC Delco I will take these back and exchange them. Thanks for the info, I'll keep you updated.
Well, last time I looked Into it GM didn’t recognize the issue with the timing chain system, just the oil consumption from piston and ring defect. So much so that even while addressing the ring seal defect - the timing chain components would be re-used even though everything was already removed and would be a prime opportunity to make the repair. There are a few different things to watch with this engine and they’re all kind of tied to each other. It’s a good little engine…. Until it isn’t. Do a quick google search, they may have changed their settlement or may have even Been hit with additional lawsuits. Best of luck!
"Good little engine" ahh no, mine was meticulously maintained and started having issues with the exhaust and intake valve sensors. Replaced and not its obvious it the timing chain. Pieces of crap. I have a strong urge to tell everyone I see driving one of these to get rid of them while they still can.
To say a problem doesn’t exist with something that has an identical design might be a little optimistic. In the affected model years, the weak link was exacerbated by what I’m assuming is or was inferior materials.
Has anger entered your body yet? If you have a 2.4 it’s inevitable. Cars run cleaner, engineering is more precise, and oils are light years ahead from where they were in the 80’s but somehow GM made an engine that has the longevity of a clapped out 2 bolt main 350. 🤣
@@jordanblair5474 Aygh, literally just got one. Most of what I was reading said this year should be fine as long as oil changes were kept up. Hopefully the previous owners were responsible.
Lol. Well… they didn’t learn anything and didn’t stop with this engine. We have a 22’ Telluride and it rattles until the oil pressure takes over on the tensioners. Curse of timing chains I suppose.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Appreciate your detailed explanation on cause and effect on the components you were checking. Also the torque specs and one time use bolt explanation was important. Your thoroughness is what is needed. Thanks so very much!
Thanks for the positive feedback! I enjoy helping and providing information/teaching. TH-cam has given me an outlet to do just that.
12:20 This is why I installed an oil catch can between the valve cover PCV line and the air-box. During the summer months the can didn't collect much of anything, but when the weather turned colder... WOW. I work from home so I don't do a lot of driving these days, but I did make a 10 hour round trip around thanksgiving. I checked the catch can the other day, and it was full to the top of a nasty yellow foamy gunk. I recommend to anyone with a 2.4L Ecotec (or any DI engine for that matter) put a catch can in your PCV system.
That’s crazy! I ran across this mod before but I’ve never seen or heard real life experience from it. Winter would make sense with the amount of humidity/condensation that forms in the engine before getting up to temp. Again with ring seal issues it just gets worse!
I might have to look into doing this myself. Thanks for the comment cswann8.
@@buffmotorsports4460 Quick question. I have a 2012 Terrain 2.4l and about 2 weeks ago, out of the blue I started getting P0016/P0017 codes (timing correlation) that immediately reappear when cleared along with a rough idle. A shop confirmed this morning the timing is off mechanically. Thing is I'm at 146K miles and the previous owner had the timing chain assembly replaced at 135k...and the weirdest thing is the chain guide on top that runs along the chain as it travels between the 2 cam sprockets is missing. The bracket is there, but the lip that folds over 90 degrees that they plastic guide attaches to is not there. It's like someone took the bracket and put it in a vice and cut the lip off so that the chain is moving through air with nothing to slap against if there is some slop in the chain. I think this may have been some shady shops "fix" for noise from a chain that was a little loose. In any case that top chain guide is getting replaced with a new part.
My question is, I think I can just drain the oil, remove the valve cover and timing cover and rotate the engine to TDC and visually see the timing problem just using the timing marks and colored chain links. If I see that one of the cam sprockets jumped a tooth and is now off, I should be able to rotate it back in line with the timing markers and get everything back in time right?
@cswann8 That’s about the gist of things.
You’ll need to pull the chain tensioner out of the back side of the block, “reset” it and I believe you’ll gain enough slack in the chain to get it to slip a tooth. I would say go ahead and order a new tensioner to be safe, mine was stuck collapsed and the resetting procedure involves disassembly of the tensioner, not something I’d attempt without specific instructions - which I’m sure you can dig up. Paint marks should line up, some chain sets used a colored chain link, which are hard to spot so rotate the engine back and forwarth to see if you can find them before attempting to slip the chain. Once at TDC, avoid turning the cams too much and do not turn the crank until you know your chain it set. It’s pretty easy to bend a valve. The cast Hexes in the cams should help, you’ll need to take the load against the chain off to achieve your goal and manipulate the cam phaser/sprocket into place.
Don’t forget the possibility of the cam solenoids. They could be installed or even hooked up incorrectly as well. Assuming the car was purchased recently with these codes present?
How did you do it?? Do you have a video of this???
Glad I found your comment, I was thinkin about a catch can but wasn’t sure anyone else had tried. Guess it would be worth it.
Funny, we have the same unit... we maintain the hell out of it. It now has a touch under 127,000 and we're going to change the timing chain and guides. Been a fine vehicle and I'm not gentle on 'er at all, we bought it to drive and by god she gets driven. Never revved into the redline though.
It’s good to “clean them out” now and again. Obviously continuously beating on it is going to result in added wear and tear but, if it wasn’t meant to rev to 6,000 rpm GM would’ve set the limiter lower than that 🤣
My wife only has to drive 12-15 mins to and from work which are some of the toughest conditions. Ex. Barely getting warm enough to go into closed loop exhaust gas correction, surely isn’t hot enough to steam off any vapor or condensation, and then a lot of light throttle driving. Oil always smells like fuel and ends up almost a nasty brown when dropped. Poor piston ring seal, PCV system sucks, and low operating temps we undoubtedly end up with diluted and contaminated oil by the time the 3,000 mile mark. So, I use full synthetic and treat it like conventional and change it “early”.
Light money on fire, and repeat.
We just did our chain at 189k miles. We had metal that wrapped around the cam sensor and were quoted 8 grand to replace the engine. We put a new chain on, drained the oil and sent it. I hate these Ecotecs. They are 3 grand more expensive than the new Equinox 1.8l motors
At 189k that’s the same route I would have gone! Hope it’s still chugging along, just with less free metal floating around lol.
I drive a 2012 Captiva 2.4 in Germany (LE9 engine version). When replacing the timing chain components it's best to use an upgraded front guide with upgraded fixing bolts, obtainable in the US. A new tensioner should always be fitted and oil changes at max.10,000km.
Buddy, your incredible…I can barely change my oil! Wow!
I appreciate the kind words!
I’ve never held an official title of “master mechanic” so I never see myself as one. But, my initial career path led me to obtain at least 2 ASE certifications as I was graduating college. Those have since lapsed because I went more to the industrial diesel side.
12 years later and now I manage a fluctuating team size and probably oversee the maintenance and repair of close to 40mil in equipment. Critical part of the job is being able to guide and break down repairs into manageable tasks.
This may look daunting but, there’s enough info here that with the right tools and some time and patience the repair isn’t that bad.
Best of luck!
😂😂 I always say once u become a homeowner, u can't pay for everything to get fix gotta get hands on , I been building bikes , hooking up home stereos , and doing small engines since I was at least 10 just watching grown ups around me , and its definitely a blessing , u can do it ! 💪🏿😎🤟🏿💯🔥💰
At least on the G5 7 the hhr, Your suppose to be able to slide a piece of wood between the engine & a lower frame rail, I am about to do the timing chains on my G5 2.2 VIN-F when it arrives!
Aw heck my nerts have the same drop as my timing chain. I run em both till they rust off. Great video. Thanks for the content
Great video, these engines are frustrating , all the leaves on the cowel were making me nervous with your cams exposed
Thanks for the comment and positive feedback Chad. The dirty cowl was a calculated risk lol. I picked a few pieces of debris out of the top end before covering it with a shirt the wife had laying in the garage (spoiler, she wasn’t happy about it 🤣) The wind would pick up and the tree itself was the issue.
Sometimes leaving stuff well bedded alone is the best action. The tree is no longer an issue, I cut it down 🤷🏼♂️
We are preparing to do this replacement on our GMC Terrain, can you tell me the exact kit you bought from Rockauto because there are many out there and they all included different things. Thanks so much, the video is great!
If it’s not in part 1, part 2 has the kit and numbers I used for this job. I replaced the chains and guides on the balance shafts as well as the timing chain and chain phasers.
Different part numbers and kits will be for different model years so be sure you have the right kit for your year and engine. Also, kit variations could include things another kit doesn’t.
Doing this PITA job right now! Taking a short break so I thought I’d see if anyone else was doing it. LOL
BG makes a fantastic oil flush system
It’s a little pricey but it does an amazing job
There are videos on TH-cam showing how to use it and before and after results
I mean it cleans it 98%
All of the 2.4L GM motors have timing chain issues. If you have one go ahead and schedule your mechanic to replace the chain. This should occur at about the 100k to 110k mile mark on your odometer. If you don't, you will be looking at head work in addition to replacing the chain and related components. Worst case scenario engine overhaul.
Last I knew GM didn’t acknowledge the timing chains as an actionable issue like they did regarding the ring seal issues.
Wrap your head around this - if you were lucky and got new pistons/rings due to the class action lawsuit it doesn’t cover the chain, guides and tensioners so, they don’t replace the timing components at the time of service.
You could have bought and opted for them to install them while it was torn apart but you’d just be putting fast cash in their pockets. They’re going to charge by the book even though they’d already have it disassembled and have to time/reassemble it anyways during the recall.
I'VE GOT THE NOISE YOU RECORDED WHEN STARTING THE MOTOR. ALSO IF ACCELERATOR IS DEPRESSED NOISE GETS LOUDER. ANY IDEA HOW LONG BEFORE I FRY THE ENGINE?
INSTALLED BG OIL ADDITIVE AND NOISE WENT DOWN.
Excellent detail and presentation... thank you!
Good video and thanks for including the parts you order and where you got them.. I ordered the timing chain kit from Rockauto (thank you) and the balance kit from my local auto store (O'Reillys) and it was the same 9-4202S. But after visiting Cloyes website and contacting Cloyes rep. they said the part number 9-4202S is not for my vehicle (2012 chevy equinox 2.4l). I will need the 9-4202SA. Cloyes told me that the only difference is the tensioner. Did you have any problem with the tensioner from the 9-4202S kit?
thanks. JC
This was a 2012. The tensioner I installed did look a bit different than the OEM part, but there are always revisions to parts for improvement, etc. so I didn’t think too much into it. Did Cloyes mention the differences in the tensioner? The one in this kit seems to be working well.
@Juan, I have to correct my previous comment. The tensioner that was different from the OEM part for me was the timing chain tensioner, not the balance chain tensioner. To the best of my recollection, there wasn’t anything that jumped out at me being different and again; the tensioner seems to be doing fine. I searched both part numbers and the images don’t appear to show any noticeable differences... not that that means anything.
I just purchased a used 2013 GMC terrain with 84000 miles I hope it lasts a few years
Just got a Terrain I pray it be good to me😫
Just got mine replaced in my 2017 Terrain but should I change the oil 2k miles instead of 3k? Also if I use ECO drive setting it burns up my Camshaft sensor. Had that happen on my 2015 and my 2017 when I would drive on ECO
Any GMC dealership will fix this for free as long as it was a 2010-2013 model year. They all had this issue. Just took mine in last week for the same problem.
Better put your dealership information out there for everyone to go get their work done at!
Any time I inquired they were very firm about the oil consumption statute of limitations and never acknowledged the timing chain issue. I specifically asked if and during the piston and re-ring service whether they changed the timing chains.
Their response was “it’s not covered in the scope of the repair” but would install the parts if purchased separately. Which is a shame because 80% of this repair is addressed while torn down to rectify the oil consumption issues addressed in the lawsuit.
Glad to hear you got yours taken care of and hope they’re treating everyone else just as good!
@@buffmotorsports4460 I had to get a brand new engine. The timing chain jumped and slapped around in the compartment and damaged the engine. This damage was a result of high oil consumption. I had just got the oil changed in April and by july the timing chain broke rendering my car useless. Because of high oil consumption the parts were no longer being lubricated and I never got a change engine oil light or any other indicator letting me know to change the oil again. So while the lawsuit didnt specify timing chain, it does say if your engine had to be replaced due to the oil consumption issue you can be reimbursed or have a new engine installed without paying anything.
is this the service bullentin you're talking about? That expired back in 2019.
My S4. 4.2 ltr has tensioner issues. They made them of plastic I changed them out to metal. We just got a terrain as a sect unit. Love the SUV and the style. Are the tensions plastic like in mys4
These are Aluminum with a plastic cover. Unsure of the composition but as a general term they use “plastic” to prolong life of the chain, slides, and quiet the system down all together.
Depending on age and the amount of chain slap due to tensioner issues, it’s not an uncommon failure for the plastic to release from the aluminum. Majority of the time, this doesn’t happen. This 2.4 can have issues with one of the tensioner pivot bolts failing.
That’s almost certain valve contact.
I read in the description about the 2015 model. We recently purchased a 2015 2.4l Terrain. I’ve been concerned about timing chain issues considering it’s an interference engine. Is this a common issue I should be worried about?
Hey Koricc! Keep up with your oil changes and an eye on your oil level and all should be good. GM made a correction in production that should have eliminated this issue for the 15 - up mode year. There’s always the potential for a freak occurrence, but the timing chain issues are usually a result from oil consumption causing low and dropped oil pressures. (I’ve also seen accusations of the low oil warning not working cause total engine failures) Personally I believe the timing chains were made of soft materials. V-6’s are also notorious for the timing noise.
Best you can do is familiarize yourself with your cars “normal” sounds so you can tell when something changes, and keep up with the general maintenance - also so you can notice when something changes. Best of luck!
Don’t forget the sprockets!
Where can I find the crankshaft bolt
Excellent video, thank you!
Hey Freddy, Thanks for the feedback. Hope it was helpful.
@@buffmotorsports4460 Yes getting ready to do the job, hope it is as easy as it looks. BTW Thumbs up for owning a Cummins.
I will say... I’ll hand it to GM, it isn’t a terrible job to do with the engine in the vehicle and even without a lift. I will say though; if the small steel cover that is over the water pump gear - if it isn’t leaking, don’t disturb it. That has been my only issue since this video. I changed the oil and the timing cover was wet from that cover leaking. If you do reseal it, use some gasket maker. Ultra black or the “right stuff”.
Cummins 🤘🏼It’s not a fancy one but it’s a good one.
@@buffmotorsports4460 I use Ultra Black quite often but always wait 24 hours before introducing any fluids to it, good stuff.
Hey Freddy, how did you make out with your timing chain replacement? Also, I added a video of the Cummins, nothing terribly special but you get to see a little more of what’s going on with the truck and my set up - if you’re interested!
Did my timing and chain and guides at 150 Kms, but still have a death rattle at 1800 rpm especially on decel ,sounds like chain hitting cover (loosing tension) or a wrist pin kinda double knock ,any one have similar symptoms before I pull the pan and head and start popping pistons out ? Thank you,roger
I was going to buy a 2017 terrain but i watched a video that said the 2010-2017 models will need a engine rebuilt between 60k - 120k miles.
I have a 2013 with 205,000 miles on it. It's been serviced with oil changes every 3 months since it was new. The only thing I've had to do is replace the serpentine belt. It's been a great vehicle and a blessing because I was hit by an uninsured driver and I didn't have full coverage on my Pacifica. This was all I could afford. I bought it when it was 2 years old from a dealer and all the records were with it. I've kept up maintenance and we're still going. My son is disabled so it makes lots of long trips to hospitals. Other than that were homebodies. They really are great trucks.
@@me_TJ_MrB i already bought a different vehicle. The reviews i read advised to avoid the terrain like the plague.
@@rayray2613 As long as you're happy with your new vehicle, that's all that matters🙂 Have a great Monday.
@@me_TJ_MrB I’m not happy. Its a piece of junk 2010 dodge caravan that i paid 12 grand for.
@@rayray2613 😳
did you feel a loss of acceleration on your way home?
The vehicle was very sluggish and lost a bunch of low-end power. It picked back up in higher rpms but having a good hunch of what was going on at that time I really didn’t want to rev the car out more than needed. Being an interference engine if it would have jumped timing my repair would have cost a ton more than just my time and a few hundred bucks.
My wife had a check engine light come on today and she told me her engine was knocking. Shocked at hearing this I went out and drove it down the road and sure enough at lower RPM you can here what clearly sounds like it knocking. It runs rough all the sudden at idle which I figured a misfire is the culprit and caused the check engine light. I was right and Autozone said the code is p0300 which is multi cylinder misfire and said their system said its most likely a VCT solenoid or VVT solenoid. To me, I don't think those would cause this noise although it did start immediately after the check engine light. So I was going to try spark plugs and solenoids BUT after seeing your video I think it might have timing chain issue. has 114k miles so it's probably due for a chain anyway. Any insight?
Dy2 Str33t-King what year 2.4 are we talking about in this scenario? Multi cylinder misfire code being present could mean something simple like spark plugs, or even bad fuel so, no need to assume the worst right away. Now if it jumped time resulting in the uneven idle, perhaps even a misfire - it should have a code/fault present for cam position/angle or VVT efficiency type of code.
If the car is older than 2015, I would plan on a timing chain and tensioner service, but would definitely start with the spark plugs and dry gas treatment or a similar product. Be sure to use OEM like AC Delco. This coil over plug system doesn’t favor the iridium plated/tipped spark plugs.
@@buffmotorsports4460 It's a 2013 and I bought NGK plugs today but haven't installed them yet. If I have to use AC Delco I will take these back and exchange them. Thanks for the info, I'll keep you updated.
I had this issue and they claimed it was the solenoid valve and less than a month it’s the same issue.
What is that music? Anybody know that?
where do I find the settlement information on this? My car just shit the bed
Well, last time I looked Into it GM didn’t recognize the issue with the timing chain system, just the oil consumption from piston and ring defect.
So much so that even while addressing the ring seal defect - the timing chain components would be re-used even though everything was already removed and would be a prime opportunity to make the repair.
There are a few different things to watch with this engine and they’re all kind of tied to each other. It’s a good little engine…. Until it isn’t.
Do a quick google search, they may have changed their settlement or may have even
Been hit with additional lawsuits.
Best of luck!
The oil consumption itself caused the timing chain to fail in many cases.
"Good little engine" ahh no, mine was meticulously maintained and started having issues with the exhaust and intake valve sensors. Replaced and not its obvious it the timing chain. Pieces of crap. I have a strong urge to tell everyone I see driving one of these to get rid of them while they still can.
Good video thanks
Thanks for the feedback Jeramy. If you haven’t already seen it, there’s a PT2.
So the problem doesn't exist in the 2017 models?
To say a problem doesn’t exist with something that has an identical design might be a little optimistic. In the affected model years, the weak link was exacerbated by what I’m assuming is or was inferior materials.
Bout to be pissed if this is what’s wrong with mine alotta cars not running good here soon lately
Has anger entered your body yet?
If you have a 2.4 it’s inevitable. Cars run cleaner, engineering is more precise, and oils are light years ahead from where they were in the 80’s but somehow GM made an engine that has the longevity of a clapped out 2 bolt main 350. 🤣
@@buffmotorsports4460 But the 2015s should be okay if it's maintained properly?
Just spent $3,000 fixing equinox. Pretty much same issue 😕
What year?
@@frostasaurus2190 2015
@@jordanblair5474 Aygh, literally just got one. Most of what I was reading said this year should be fine as long as oil changes were kept up. Hopefully the previous owners were responsible.
@@frostasaurus2190 I hope you have better luck than I have with this model. It's been a money pit. Good luck 🤞
Why do they build such a piece of shit in the first place,my 2015 sounds like a diesel
Lol. Well… they didn’t learn anything and didn’t stop with this engine. We have a 22’ Telluride and it rattles until the oil pressure takes over on the tensioners. Curse of timing chains I suppose.
M
how did you changed the balance timing sprockets on the engine
I have searched all over for that information