Excellent video which I could easily follow as I own a Captiva with an Ecotec 2.4 LE9 engine fitted (80,000km). However, there are a few upgrades which can be fitted to the whole assembly making it far more reliable. My recommendations when attempting this job would be as follows: 1) only use quality new parts. 2) do not fit an OEM front (black) chain guide as they are prone to breakage at the top fixing hole, rather a racing version which can be obtained in the US online. It's much stronger and of a different material. 3) only use the upgraded stronger guide fixing bolts throughout, or at least the modified type for the top fixing for the front guide. All available in the US. 4) fit a new tensioner & cam VVT sprockets & always pre-lube. 5) fit new upper chain guide & fit 2 higher 10.9 grade fixing bolts. 6) remove existing valve cover bolts & replace with new higher grade 10.9 bolts. 6) check spark plugs are good, if not replace. 7) check compression. 7) check oil pressure. 8) remove sump pan and clean out thoroughly. 9) during assembly mark each bolt after final torque setting is reached. 10) just a small point - always check bolt threads for any damage before using, even when new. 11) be sure that your torque wrench is calibrated correctly. 12) fill with 4.7L of new synthetic 5W-30 oil (I use a Shell product which is excellent), fit beforehand a new filter either from Bosch or MANN, anything else is sub-standard. 12) fit a new AC Delco FC219 oil filler cap which has a blow-off valve incorporated. 13) run engine for 2000km and drain oil. 14) renew oil and filter. 15) in future always make oil changes using the same brand of oil & filter at max.10,000km intervals, irrespective of what the GM handbook or the oil manufacturer states. From a Brit. ex-Ford and almost Porsche engine builder in Germany.
@@dosgos summit racing probably has them. they a reputable and quick. got my 5.3 kit from them and it took 1 week to get it into canada. 230k kms later and no engine isuues yet
Dude I’ve been a master tech,shop owner and racer for 30 years started in mid 1980’s , and I’ve watched channels with 50-250k subs, and many are hacks, you know the type ,they can replace a engine, a timing belt, but give them a eco tech to swap the chain, they are morons,and lost..
I have a p303 code. I replaced the plugs, the coil, did a oil change, replaced the oil filter and the front seal.. I also cleaned out the pcv system. Its still running a bit rough.. The stability trak light is on and the engine light is blinking.. My wifes dad died. He left her money to get us a family car. We got the Equinox thinking it would be a reliable car for us. I wish i could catch a break and get a reliable vehicle for my family 🙏
The pcv system is writhing the plastic intake manifold there more than just that one tiny hole which clogged, there 4 other tiny holes running to each end of the manifold where it meets the head . Mine were all clogged , so I just replaced the hole intake manifold which fix my rough running condition like yours also my exhaust manifold was cracked , I also replaced that as well and did my timing chains , this car is solid it just needs a few things
@@jesusISsaviormartinez I haven't had one clogged completely on each intake runner, but I'll keep and eye out for that. I can usually blast air in the main port and get it all out.
@@shedhouse7330 i did the compression test. All piston values read good except for #3. It only has 35 PSI.. I have to take the top if the engine off. Im praying its just carbon built up making it stick open.. one thing I can say about this Equinox is this> (before the issues) it was January & my buddy lives off grid deep in the mountains.. One of the service roads was open so my buddy said take that road. As we entered there was roughly 3-4 inches on the ground but the road seemed decent.. well I thought.. Im not from his area so I wasn't familiar with this road. We where 1/4 of the way out when my buddy says> I sure hope the other gate is open.. I was like what dude?? Smh The snow got so deep it was rubbing against the bottom of the SUV.. I honestly thought we would get stuck and end up being a rescue story for some TH-cam channel.. lol This Equinox drove through this mess with no problems at all.. It handled better then any other vehicle I have ever drove.. This road was straight out of a horror movie.. After struggling to not go off a cliff for 30 miles we made it to the main road.. I couldn't believe we made it.. This SUV is truly a bad ass machine when ya get all the factory bugs out.. Its still in my driveway since my 1st comment... I really wanna get it up and running 🙏🙏🙏
Nice job. Appreciate the list of items to check. I've got a 2.4L Terrain at 150K and with each video I watch I get more sure it probably needs a chain and tensioner swap just to be safe. He is absolutely right, guys. Check that oil at least once a week, depending on how much you drive. You might benefit from a viscosity booster if you do have some oil consumption and/or rough idle. Change that oil EVERY 3000 miles. These direct 4 cylinders can't handle stress.
Im a 1 man auto shop. I have replaced at least 60 of these timing chains and probably 10 engines. The thing about just doign the timing chains is it doesnt address the underlying oil burning issues. That is the root cause of the timing chains being stretched. Sure you can make it run again but its still burning oil.
I agree, if they're burning oil the chains will stretch again if oil levels are left to run low. I'm a one man band too, so cheers to that! pcv systems can cause oil consumption and the direct injection causes fuel to get into the oil too. Have you done any piston kits on these? I've done a few to save from replacing an entire engine. I've had good luck doing the pistons, timing kit, water pump and injection pump. Really not that hard or expensive, compared to a new engine anyway.
@@shedhouse7330 Yes, but in terms of labor costs - is it about the same? Are the engines from Jasper an improvement? Mine is 2013 Equinox at 155K miles
I must be lucky I have a 2009 saturn and no oil consumption at all at 170k miles. I also did the whole cloyes kit with water pump at like 80k it's been good vehicle. I've also been meticulous with all the fluids. Seems like the DI ones have major issues with fuel wash.
I just had my timing chain,the rail guides,tensioner and the sprokets replaced for $3000 pesos in labor ($158USD) in Mexico,parts cost me like $150 bucks on ebay and had it done in like 6 hours that same day.I drive a 2016 Buick Verano 2.4l ecotech.Thank god i live on the border.
@2289273 i live in Brownsville,Texas and the border city in Mexico is called Matamoros,i get all my mechanical work over there and save thousands of dollars
I work on enough of these 2.4s the labor for engine swap vs timing chain is almost the same lol. Every time I do one of these I recommend a new water pump as well ... keep wrenching 👍👍👍
@eduardoenriquez1897 bout to find out too ours was just rebuilt with updated rings and it got new pistons so it better not be burning any oil now too early to tell yet tho
Change the oil regularly an me make sure the tiny PCV port in the intake manifold gets cleaned out EVERY oil change. You can prevent 95% of the problems with these engines just by staying on top of maintenance.
Very good video and information-- no-one wants to fix things anymore just replace or buy a new vehicle. I just had a buddy tell me his daughter drove her 2015 equinox to school came out wouldnt start- towed to shop told the engine was shot- replace for $7k-- i asked how did they determine the problem no one could give me an answer- offered to buy the old engine for $100 over core and they thought i was an idiot wouldnt sell it to me.
My 2011 Equinox just did this. Drove it to work just fine, tried to start it after work and wont start. I can hear the starter engage and try to crank but wont turn over. Got it towed to a shop and they said the engine is seized and I should just replace the whole engine which would cost about 5k if they just used a junk yard engine.
I had one where all valves were bent, no piston damage, replaced valves, rocker arms, t-chain, oil pump etc. Removed oil pan and cleaned everything out. Put it back together and it runs and drives perfect except it burns a ton of oil. I'm going to put pistons and rings in it soon. Hopefully it's going to be good after that. I think they all burn oil due to low tension piston rings and likely all need pistons and rings. Also, after doing the work, compression and leakdown tests were good.
I thought most of the oil burning in these was mostly due to the PCV valve (valve cover replacement) or installing the updated oil cap with the integrated breather.
THANK YOU!! Finally someone who is knowledgeable about the 2.4L Ecotech engine… My car was bucking and stalling when idling. Car sat a mechanic but they couldn’t fix it. They replaced the high pressure pump and still having issues. Looking online looks like most common problem is the timing chain..cam.. cam phaser..oil consumption My car was fixed after I followed a video online saying you can fix a bad cam phaser by getting a fresh oil change and then put the car in manual and getting the revs up high.. SO STRANGE but my car is purring now and fixed LOL
Sir you are a GREAT teacher, I bought a 2.4 Sunfire GT Convertible, my 2nd one, I Love that model, it runs Perfect but sporadically makes a rattling noise, now I see the problem, if the tensioner goes bad it slaps around and breaks the plastic guide on top, means it is flying around like a Pinball machine bouncing off of everything, WOW YOU ARE GOOD Thank You Sir., Have a Great Weekend.
I have a couple 2.2l Ecotec's and the timing kits only last about 50, 60, 80k miles, What happened with mine was the black timing guide on the intake side of the engine broke and got caught in all the gears and water pump pulley sounded like grinding metal shaving and even sounded like it was knocking at one point, Slapped a timing kit in there took me like a month to do in cold weather outside but $150 kit for my car versus $2000 for a shop to do, I also had a burning engine oil problem and put Lucas oil Engine oil treatment in it and it stopped burning oil also at one point used Liquid Moly Engine flush at one point and it ran so much better after flushing the engine.
My gf just had hers fixed it jumped timing at 105k miles just didnt start one morning never died on the road. It bent the valves so they replaced them and the pistons and rings because it was already consuming oil too. This was 5500 dollars for this fix at the local dealership. If youve got one of these engines in your car and it runs and drives take your loss and sell it before it blows up theyre utter garbage engines its a disgrace.
Its Gas Direct Injection, long drain intervals and poor spec'd oil by GM that is the root cause of oil consumption, chain weat carbon build up. GDI creates huge amounts of abrasive soot that wears the chain, high fuel dilution, which shears oil viscosity, oxidizes oil, the initial OLM would allow 10-12k oil changes. Soot, fuel, oxidized oil clogs oil control rings.
Very great! I got a 2010 Chevy Equinox 9 months ago from a dealership. It burns 1 quart of oil per 1000 miles. I got a low oil pressure warning when I was driving on the highway. When I pulled over and added 2 quarts of oil to the engine, I could start the engine without any code, but I heard big noises coming from timing chain area. One mech told me it may need to replace the timing chain (cost $2K). But with the burning oil problem, it is better to replace the whole engine ($ 5K-7K). Now, I am going to check the timing chain and maybe replace it. But, I know nothing about the car...trying to find some great videos talking about this problem,. Thanks very much for your great video!
Glad you liked the video. You're still going to have the oil consumption issue after doing the timing chain. You could possibly have a pcv issue causing some of the oil burning and that would be worth looking into. 2k for the chains alone sounds a little steep, but maybe your market can bring that much. Might want to call around a bit. If you replace the engine with a used one, you're basically in the same position you are now. You really don't know how good that replacement engine will be. If its new, that's different but still a lot to spend on a 2010.
I have a 2012 Malibu 2.4 same engine,first clean your pcv system.Its called the office.Take off the intake and clean it Carb cleaner with the straw in the hole.Put the intake back on.Change the oil with your choice .There is videos that will show you how to do it .I had the same problem. This will help
Hey Shed house, just watched you vid, this will help me a ton. I just bought the same car with 140k mi. The original owner did a chain at 116k miles for like you said, paid $1600, Now at 140k they said its rattling and shut it off and I bought it (will open up before firing), So maybe something got loose. maybe phasers failed (dont know if replaced) So about to dive in. Thanks for the quality video.
My neighbor has one, was a vw tech. Going to pull the.valve cover tomorrow. Can hear the chain making noise. Random misfire codes. But no correlation codes.. 120k miles pretty sure was ran with low oil.
I can't believe how many people fall into that trap of buying a new vehicle from the same manufacturer after having a horrible experience. I know they all have issues, but after seeing how widespread this is (or even the 3.6 chain issue!) I don't think my next vehicle will be a GM product. Bought our '14 Equinox new, and it only has just over 100,000 km, but I'm trying to decide the best course of action. I don't really have the time to rebuild it, but I will as a last resort. I'm toying with the idea of pulling one at a wrecker and rebuilding that one, but also want to price out a long block from a local company. If they come with warranty and aren't too pricey, I might go that route. I guess I'll go watch your video now!
@@tonycj7860 replaced the VVT solenoids, but then later must've ran it low on oil (🤬 oil rings) then it started clattering for a moment on startup (tensioner gone bad?) But I haven't dug into it to see what it needs. Should probably do something before it breaks lol. I really wonder how many are out there where owners changed oil diligently but still ended up with problems. Edit: surprised it hasn't blow out the rear main seal. I was considering the vented cap and maybe a catch can once I check the PCV orifice.
Low oil and lack of freq oil changes will gum up the tensioners since they are run on oil pressure. Then chain slips and wala. And of course the stupid plastic tensioners.
GDI and turboes kill these engines. The port injected LE5s are great engines. 5k oil changes are required. Any engine you want to last needs that though.
@@revtimewest I supercharged mine and I’m running 10psi max boost. The 2.4 ecotec is a robust engine and if maintained it will go 250k. I could more power with more boost but that would require forged pistons . I figure 318hp at the rear wheel is enough.
What symptoms do you get if the phasers are going out? I just replaced the head on my wife’s and did new chain and guides but didn’t replace the tensioner or phasers, 2 weeks later I shut it off to go into a store and when I came out it would start, run for 3-5 seconds and then sputter out. On the scanner all parameters look good, no pending codes or tripped codes. My next step is to replace the phasers and tensioner as well as verify everything is still timed properly. I bench tested the solenoids and they ohm out good.
with a scan tool you should be able to see the command position of each phaser and the actual position, you can also command them to advance and watch for the command and actual position match. You should have codes if the phasers are bad.
I have a 2015 equinox 2.4 engine. Crank no start and my mechanic said I need an engine replacement. I have checked the valve cover and inside the intake and exhaust chamber.. both look good. My timing chain is in the same condition as the video. This gives me a piece of mind that it could potentially be a timing chain replacement. By chance do you have a manual on how to complete a timing chain replacement.
I use all data and prodemand. You can find a ton of videos on youtube covering the actual replacement of the chain. Good luck, hope it works out for you.
Just had a new timing set put on my 2014 Malibu due to loose guides. Dealership told me engine was toast and to replace it. I only have 137,000 miles and was running and sounds fine. Independent shop laughed and said no a new set would save it. Yea it was expensive 1,500 but not 4,000 for a new engine or car.
I have a 2012 buick regal with the 2.4 ecotec. It's giving codes p0014 and p0016. Car starts and idles fine in park. Surges and sputters and sometimes stalls in drive and reverse. But once you get it moving from stopped it seems to run fine. Only sputters and surges when stopped in gear. No surge in neutral. Changed the vvt solenoids and it didn't fix it. Dealer wanted 800 dollars just to diagnose it. Anyone know what the problem would be?
Whenever the part of the guide is missing you should drop the oil pan and remove the pieces. My mother's Equinox had the long black guide shatter and pieces of it were jammed inside the oil pickup screen. It also ruined the two bolts for that guide and the oil control valve screens were clogged with plastic from the guide. The amazing part was that it still ran and didn't jump time. It's also worth pointing out this this was the 2nd set of chains and guides that were put in this engine and they lasted less than 75K miles even though the oil level was kept up.
You are correct. When the guides come apart, it's important to clear off the oil pickup screen. I've done it many times. I go that far depending on what I can recover from the guides. If I can fish out the guides and piece it back together without any missing pieces, I've found pulling the pan to be a waste of time. However, you bring up a good point of previous guide failure, It would be hard to tell if someone left carnage in the pan previously. I need to start considering that!
My wifes 2014 just had its timing chain replaced. She loves the SUV and well worth getting fixed. Should've dropped the oil pan and clean that out of all the timing chain parts that broke off. They will get stuck to the oil screen and restrict the oil ,, which would make this happen sooner than it needs to happen.
Hey Shed house, your video helped a ton. All went well ,runs perfect but has rattle for first 5 seconds, I used a cloyes kit with new actuators ect. Experts please advise. 600 miles no oil usage. Thanks
My 2011 Chevy equinox runs but the StabiliTrac light comes on and then it says reduce power. There is some codes on there. I’m so over it. I need some answer please🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️. From the codes I have to seems it needs a timing belt. I have P0016, P0017, P0036, P228D,, P0089 and Mass Air flow code. I have changed Intake+Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator+Camshaft Sensor+Engine Crankshaft Sensor, Mass airflow sensor, High pressure fuel pump, Fuel rail sensor, Both Purges valve and solenoid, Map sensor, Throttle body. I swear I will turn my ignition I go on the block the StabiliTrac light will come will come on and then the reduce power will show up. I don’t know what else to do. Can somebody please answer. I’m so lost. Do I need a Timing Belt??? Or Do I need to replace my wheel hub and the speed sensor???
As a 20 year ASE master status technician, this is why I'm glad I'm no longer in the field. It's impossible to compete with the dishonest mechanics who are working in the same repair shop. Owners will look the other way and "feed" the hack that they know well go for the "home run" sale under the false flag of covering their ass. I also have no desire to keep up with the ridiculous amount of computer control and special service tools even required to service these newer vehicles
K bro what if didn’t have piston to valve contact before I pulled it apart can I reset the timing with the crank and not pulling the cams off ? Let me know
Very informative and detailed! Much appreciated! I recently purchased a 2011 equinox 2.4l LAF that had low compression. Shop said the same, needed a new engine. The followers on the rockers are still intact. It looks like the same black timing guide broke on mine as well. I replaced all the timing chain components, and lined up all the markings to the chain and markings on the crank, and Intake/exhaust cams. I turned it a few times to ensure the chain wouldn’t jump and it was fine. I ran a compression test by placing the gauge in each cylinder and going through the starter process. Each cylinder came up with zero compression. I did you run a compression test after replacing the chain? I also am going to test each cylinder by placing a little oil and seeing I get compression that way. I do have a camera I’ve placed inside each cylinder and it looks like it did take off some carbon off the top of the cylinders but no metal bouncing around. Piston heads looked fine as well. If I place oil in the cylinder and it comes up with compression, would suggest a new engine? And what if I do put in oil and I still get no compression. Should I put it together and see if starting it fully built will help at all? Tia
If I were you I would do a leak down test next. You may have slightly kissed the valves and pistons. That or your timing marks aren't lined up. How firm are the rockers when the valves are closed? they shouldn't have much play at all.
@@shedhouse7330 Thanks! And yes you were right, the moment I touched the rockers on the Intake side they fell apart. I've since replaced the heads and now have compression. This is a long shot, but I'm at a total loss with this. I have two black bolts, almost the size of a valve cover bolt with a little plastic piece around the stem near the bolts head. I have no clue where they went but I put them in a bag with the high pressure fuel pump bolts but have searched for days where they might go and I can't seem to find any logical spot to where they would go. Wondering if you've come across them or might know where they would go. hah thanks. If you don't that's fine. I may not use them if I can't find out where they go. If it helps it reads 109 on the top of the bolt
Do you normally replace the balance shaft chain and tensioner/guides too? I've heard that's recommended since they can have basically the same issues as the timing chain.
Update > i have no compression on cylinder 3. Can i replace the valve on cylinder 3 myself to fix the problem? Or do i need some type of timing training first?
Wait a minute. Did you say you did the entire timing chain job in about 3 hours? While IN the vehicle?? Please do a video, would love to see how it can be done-
Is there anyway I can email you and send you pictures to see if it’s worth fixing or replace the engine with a used one. I’m we have a 2015 gmc terrain
I’m trying to educate myself with all your videos. Shame I don’t live closer to bring mine to you. I’ve had my timing chain replaced about 3 years ago. Now I’m getting a cylinder 2 misfire. Any idea if this is all related?
I had cylinder misfire - also engine "dieseled" (ran on) after shutoff. Turns out it was the high pressure fuel pump - seal failed and fuel vapor leaked into crankcase and PCV system. Confirmed with OBD2 that fuel trims were lean - typically a mechanical issue, in my case fuel pump - but could be stuck open fuel injector.
i have a 2017 Buick Verano 2.4 Eco Tek. Code came up that it was the VVT solenoid. Before replacing it. I went into the store. Came out and it would just crank over and not fire. I continued to try to start it and it tried but made ungodly clanking sounds. I shut it off immediately. pulled the valve cover off, all the rocker arms are snug except an intake one one cylinder one. It wasn't pooped out, it was sitting where it should be. It was just loose and I can remove it by hand. Would it be safe to say that there is a bent valve? I used a bore scope but did not see anything, there's one more that wiggles just a little. How much of that is normal?
If the cam lobe is off, aka pointing in the up position, you could have a little wiggle to the rocker. Since you can remove yours, it's save to say the valve is bent. It's normal for a chain to skip a tooth as the engine shuts down, the cams will want to stop before the crank. It sounds like that's what happened. You can fix this, but you'll need to pull the head and replace the valves. I would also recommend sending a camera down the spark plug hole to make sure you don't have damage to the piston. But I'll bet you don't.
@@shedhouse7330 I rotated the engine by hand, when it rolled the chain slacked and then u can almost take chain off. Definitely believe it is the culprit now. I replaced the phasers first before tearing into the engine
Hello i have a chevy equinox and i was told by one mechanic i need a timing chain and then another mechanic said i need an engine. However, even if the engine is replaced will it still burn more oil? Also I can't say if the mechanic who told me I needed an engine did the visual or leak down test. But i can say that the mechanic who told me i needed a timing chain, he heard it as i was arriving.
the problem with buying a used engine is that you don't know the current condition of that engine. It could be one that wasn't taken care of, and burns oil. I'm a little unclear as the current condition of your engine. If it's still running, you do not need to replace the entire engine, the timing chains should be enough. That being said, you would want to ask the mechanic to inspect the PCV system for the clogged intake port while everything is apart. If your rings are causing oil consumption, you will still have that same problem after the chains are replaced. You will still need to monitor your oil level. If you replace this engine, you could still end up with an oil burner. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@shedhouse7330 thankyou. Yes the vehicle is still running. Got it scanned and no major codes came up except for needing a tune-up and I need an exhaust manifold I believe. Yup I was informed and researched that I will need to monitor oil continuously. And I believe the time chain does need replacement. I only plan on keeping the vehicle for another year. I had it about 4 years now
I’m in the situation where my 2017 Equinox with 107k miles has a blown engine due to the timing chain. I’ve been vigilant with oil changes and even had my car in less than a year ago for warranty work on the engine where my oil was mixing with coolant. The dealership fixed an issue with the crank seal and belt and noted a noise under the timing cover yet didn’t check the timing belt or chain..now I’m sitting with a blown engine. It’s so frustrating! $9323 to replace my engine installed.
That doesn't make any sense that they actually put that in writing. If they did, I would make them put the engine in under warranty or the extended warranty because it sounds like it had that problem BEFORE the warranty expired, they KNEW about it and didn't fix it. I would see them in court if they don't want to fix it
Depends on where you are. I think GM of Canada only covered this issue for X number of years and/or X mileage. Sorry, I forget the specifics, but I think I even spoke to someone at GM about ours, and it's past those. It really sucks cuz ours only had just over 100,000 km, but I'm going to explore all my options. I might grab one from a wrecker and rebuild it slowly, or price out a reman long block. I can't really afford to get rid of it right now.
When you ear a sloppy chain 2-3 sec. on a cold day is it mean chain start to elongated ? Car is a 2009 G6 but just 40k miles. Do a new tensioner can catch up the slack or its better to think about do a timing chain job + balance shaft chain + waterpump and so on and so on. I think i may open valve cover the check but what you guys think ?
Could be the tensioner, could also be the vvt sprokets but I'm not sure if they had them on the 2.4 in 09. Id start with a good oil change and see if that helps.
Thanks, I think my chain is slapping at start up - car still runs OK. Engine burns about 1 quart every 2K miles - better than most. 2013 Equinox 2.4L, 155K miles. This would cost about $1500 at a local shop (not dealer)?
Hey ive got a 16 equinox 2.4 auto awd. Its showing 3 codes i think, p219a, p0420, p0014, p0013 which is mostly timing stuff, fuel air mix, exhaust. it runs great one trip next time splutters everywere with lose of power until get plugs burning hot or something. Ive definatly gotta get a new hose that goes to use to be a pcv on Valve cover. But can you tell me what i need to do the timing completeley. lifetime warranty parts i dont like when their cheap because it means ill still have to do it again. If you have time id like to know what to buy and a fair brand something to actually last. Also my engine had the tube stopped offf on engine so lots seals and gaskets leak. What seals and gaskets that wont come in a kit can i replace while tearing into that part of the engine and any other things you would suggest changing instead of what i said? Any seals i can get to def needs done. it has abt 200000. people complains abt the 2.4 but ive not had to do anything until now with a lil over 200. ours has been great and we live in the WV mountians so its been used well. I hope you can find the time, Thanks !!!
go with gm or cloyes timing components. Make sure the rear main isn't leaking, the pcv can cause that seal to push out. If its not, I'd pull the intake and clean the pcv orfice. The timing cover gasket set comes with a new front crank seal, you'll also need a valve cover gasket. It will hard with that many miles, and you have to remove the valve cover anyway. For the codes, start with the chain, when the engine is running with a bad chain the timing of valves everything else gets out of wack, so start with that and see how it goes. Also plan on doing phasers and actuators for the vvt.
HELP NEEDED, I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu with 2.4 le9 I started hearing chattering noise from the timing chain area after an oil chain, especially at idle and in gear, so I did a full timing chain kit and when the mechanic did the job he did find the upper chain guide (between the phasers) was eaten up, but even after this is done it's still making the same noise some times it dose even ratel on cold start(keep in mind that I did but an ACDelco timing kit) so after this I pulled the valve cover and turned the engine by hand and what I saw puzzled me, the chain get lose and then tightened as i turn the engine.. what could the problem be? My guess is the phasers.
Could be the phasers, need to check and see if they move with the cam. If the lock pin is broken that could be your noise. The tensioner could also be bad.
firstly I want to thank you for your replay!. I was thinking the same thing, when I took the valve cover I did not notice much, but after reviewing the short video I took,I saw that when the chain gets loose the intake phaser turns slightly backward is that normal? @@shedhouse7330
as for the tensioner, it's brand new, and on top of that WHEN the chain gets tight (as I rotate the engine by hand the chain becomes tight and then loose and then tight back up) it is very tight and the chain does not move.@@shedhouse7330
firstly I want to thank you for the replay!. secondly, after I reviewed the video of me spinning the engine by hand I noticed that when the chain gets loose the intake cam phaser turns slightly backward and when it does that the chain gets loose, is that normal? as for the tensioner, it's brand new, and on top of that WHEN the chain gets tight (as I rotate the engine by hand the chain becomes tight and then loose and then tight back up) it is very tight and the chain does not move.@@shedhouse7330
I've read through a lot of the comments and a lot of you are mechanics an offer a lot of good advice my ecotec le9 is at 188,000 mi and I hear the clatter on startup not 100% of the time but probably like 90% of the time and I also have a tick in the engine, I'll be honest I'm a heavy driver it's fun to drive a slow car fast LOL but I also keep up with my oil changes and do it every 3 to 4 thousand miles and put a quart of Lucas in it. Any recommendations on what I should do?
I would keep driving it but keep an eye on the check engine light. If you have one pop up and timing codes are present....park it until you do the phasers and chain. Also keep your oil topped off.
Dorman makes a Timing Chain Guide Bolt replacement 917-954. Have you ever tried this? Some claim the tensioner needs to be unarmed for install, but I'm not sure that is the case due to the type of tensioner. I heard that GM revised the tensioner. Is that worth just changing even if the timing chain is fine?
I keep one in stock. When the chain stretches it will beat the heck out of the guide, and after the guide fails the chain destroys the bolt that's left behind. The threads of the bolt end up in the head but there will be nothing left of the bolt itself. So, that dorman bolt saves you from having to extract the leftover bolt from the head before installing new chin kit. And yes, replace the tensioner with the revised part number. If your going in for timing chain work, plan on doing the entire kit. Chains, guides tensioner phasers and actuators.
I have a 2014 equinox and it started burning a little oil at only 32k miles and it was in 2021 ish and my warranty expired in 2017 so now at 70k miles it’s starting to get worse but I’ve done the oil change every 3k miles since new and it down shifts harsh when I’m slowing to a stop at a light like 2nd to 1st shift. It also runs rough I’ve fired the parts cannon and can’t find it I even did all the motor mounts and the engine kinda sounds like it rattles when k slowly accelerate, surely it can’t need timing chains already? No codes at all too!
When I hear a rattle on my 2013 terrain I KNOW it’s low on oil. I installed a oil catch can, oil pressure relief cap, and cleaned the pcv orifice on the intake manifold 2 weeks ago. Supposedly this will help with oil consumption and preserve the rear main seal.
@@yausaptheshasuabary180The rear main usually only blows out or leaks when the moisture in the breather or air cleaner freezes and the crank case pressure gets to high.
Change your variable valve timing solenoids they are located on the top of your engine easy to get out one bolt and electrical plug on them these valves get dirty and stick causing your car to run rough and also is what is causing your shift problem they are about $70.00 each replace both and all your problems will be gone your welcome!
If the valve cover is off l, watch the cam lobes. If you pull the plug you can look down into the cylinder and see the piston. Otherwise they make a whistle that connects to the compression gauges hose. Only makes noise when the valves are shut
I just redid my wife's timing chain 2012 terrain 2.4L, the car ran rough after like it did when it needed the chain. did a compression test no compression on #3 only. Pulled the head did a valve job. put it all back together , timing good valves seated goot after lapping in. still no compression on #3 1,2,4 200psi, #3 0. Im a beginner. WHT is my problem..Also did a wet compression on #3 no change in compression still 0..... Im stuck with this engine...NEED HELP!
I'd say you're more than a beginner, you did some serious work. That being said, if you have zero compression the culprit should be glaringly obvious. Are you positive the exhaust valves weren't burnt? I've ran across many 2.4s with low compression and a burnt/ cracked valve. When you had the head off, did you flip it upsidedown and put fluid in the combustion chamber? Water works but thinner fluids like acetone is better. I've caught some leaks around the valves that way. Seeing as you mentioned that you lapped the valves, I'll assume there fine, but you should consider doing a leak down test in addition to the compression test. I've ran across one car in my life that had an exhaust port completely blocked with carbon. It had extremely low compression and a dead cylinder. Double check your valve train looks good under the valve cover, if the rockers slipped out the valves can't open, but to have them both fall out on intake or exhaust would be odd. No improvement on the wet compression test has me leaning towards something missed in the head. Do that leak down and let me know what you find. I'm intrigued now.
@@shedhouse7330 tickets all seem good. Nice and tight no wiggle. Car never ran hot or chain never completely came off.. the other think I’m worried about is if this engine has been replaced with an earlier model, if so then the timing is going to be different. I think the cam marks need to be at 10 &5 for 2011 and newer and about 7&5 for 2010 and older
@@shedhouse7330 did leakdown on all cylinders! 1,2,4 did great minimal loss over time.. #3 would not even hold air at all @ 100 psi. With the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke I can hear and feel air coming out the tail pipe.. so the exhaust valves are not closed or leaking… I’m surprised because I put all new valves in all the chambers…. # 3 didn’t have compression before I did the valves.. no air coming into water/ no bubbles so I’m confident the head is good… I guess I have to pull it all off again and redo the valves on the number 3 cylinder… lot of work. Geesh! Not what I wanted to do..
@@shedhouse7330 so here is the whole of it.. timing jumped.. replaced the timing chain… ran rough. Misfire #3. Did compression on all cylinders 1,2,4 all good 200 psi after 6 revolutions of the motor on each cylinder… pulled the head thought it might be a bent valve, lapped and replaced all intake and exhaust valves….. put it back together,retimed.. started right up.. running rough.. misfire #3 still. All new plugs and ignition coil packs…… still no compression on #3 cams, risers all good and tight… cleaned injectors while I had them out… all new gaskets no leaks. Not over heating… head is good I’m sure… my next thing is to just pull the head again and redo #3.. with The head off I put plastic wrap over the cylinders to see if they sucked in on exhaust stroke and out on compression stroke… all good so I don’t believe it’s the piston rings.. never had smoke or anything out the tail pipe…. I’m lost.. what next? Pull the head again.. or what.. need expert advice.
I have a 2010 Malibu 2.4 eco... I don't have any oil consumption, but my chain started slapping, how often is it just caused by the upper chain tensioner?
I have an 08 2.4 cobalt. The FSM set that I bought with the car in 08 says 100K miles is the frequency of timing system life. Mine doesn't use that much oil, but maybe 1 qt or less every 6 months. The car does no milage, so I use the 2x a yr. oil change rule. I watch the oil life monitor and when I get to 40% I start to look to change out the oil & filter. That usually is 2x a yr. I have 94K on mine.
I have this engine. It thought it had a broken timing chain but I opened it up and the timing chain looks fine. Way down in the hole I can see a different chain laying there. What could that be?
My 2015 gmc terrain drove fine to work once i got out it turned on and cut off.towed it home took checked oil had none but i checked oil week prior ,so i took off valve cover and top guide plastic gone my gmc has 95k no codes,slapping of the chain,will i need a new engine ?
@@10sandovalallan If you can pull them out you have bent valves. Even when the lobe is in the "off" position there is still a little preload holding the followers in place.
I should add, this isn't necessarily a death sentence for the engine. I've repaired this issue many many times by pulling the head and replacing just the bent valves. along with a timing chain set of course.
@@revtimewest do you understand the parts of a piston? what part of drilling into the skirt would compromise compression? any halfway knowledgeable person would know thats what we are talking about
I tried your method of turning the key while pressing on the pedal and my car cut on finally 😮💨. I think heard the timing chain in the Chevy Malibu 2011 2.4L banging around. I also smelled a burning of something possibly oil ? Anyways I think my issue has been solved I just need the money now to fix it 🥲
If it started you probably don't have bent valves, so that's a good sign. Don't try to start it anymore. Pull the valve cover and you should be able to see the sloppy chain and missing guides. Good news is the chain kits can be had for less than $200. Plenty of videos in here for diy.
@@shedhouse7330 it’s weird because I just changed my gasket seal and didn’t notice any signs of the chain being messed up. The piece above the chain was broken though. The mechanics I called said they would charge 2,500k for fix it and some said they don’t want to mess with it at all. I may look into doing it myself again. Thanks
The oil monitor time frame Gm uses is to long when the oil monitor says 30% left. Only synthetic oil with dextos additive high quality synthetic oil filter! A vented oil filler cap and the drilling of the the intake so you can clean the orifice every 50,000km a catch can if you live in a area where you get below zero during winter. My 2015 150,000 km running perfectly and burning zero oil! ZERO!
Technical answer is no, but it's a risky task if you've not done one. I've done it by pulling the cam out while holding the phaser on the chain and then swapping the phaser while keeping the chain pulled up and tight. Wore case the chain slips, you'll end up doing the chain anyway to re time it. spin it over a few times by hand after you get it back together in case the chain did slip. Better to find out rolling it over by hand than having it bend valves when you crank it up.
Your best option would be gm from the dealership. Second best would be cloyes. I've used lesser brands without issues as well but it's one of those things you don't really want to cheap out on.
@shedhouse7330 thanks for the advice I think im gonna go with cloyes. It's kinda a beater car at this point I really only need it to last another year but don't wanna go super cheap with it.
Great video, it’s a little crazy shop’s taste a pass on timing chain jobs. My son and I are changing the timing chain in a 2014. It has pretty significant consumption issues, we’re toying with the idea of putting new rings in it. I’m curious what your success rate is for replacing the rings. Not sure how far down the rabbit hole we wanna go before it just not worth it.
You can get a piston kit with rings online. Makes the swap faster so you don't have to clean the old pistons. you'll have to pull the head and the oil pan, but it can be done without pulling the engine. I've never replaced just the rings, but I'm sure that would also work.
The shop doesn't want to commit to a maybe. Or be married to it because it didn't fix the whole issue. I get it but i also get fixing the chain. Really open to either
Actually the valve hits Piston and and cam presses down as it should and then it crushes the rocker. Admit every one you've ever found is damaged not just laying on head. So every time round up every piece and chase those pieces down the oil passages with magnet. Literally any lost needles will kill oil pump.
Not once have I found roller damaged the way you describe, although I assume it's possible. The edge of the cup the lifter sits in has been cracked off before, but that is it. The rocker arms are found laying in the head, intact and not in fragments.
Hey man, I uploaded a video of my 2014 gmc terrain that is not starting. I am being told it’s the timing chain. Can you please watch it and tell me don’t have much money.
Oh my god, a dealer ship recommending an engine replacement to sell a new car. 😑 This literally is an everyday occurrence. Don’t go to a dealership for service work.
I simply replaced my timing tension that’s on the back of the head and went to start to activate tension boom no start..Scrapping it tomorrow never going to Chevy again in my life I hate Chevy now
What I don't understand is why would they put basically a peace of juck engine there not like the use to be now the put all this wired components on them like what's the point of a high pressure fuel pump that's on the engine whats wrong with the one in the tank cuz there's also one in the tank well there just junk then I had a 1996 Toyota Tercel with 300 thousand miles on it an it still ran like a champ dont think these worthless engines they put in these cars these day will even get that fare these new cars a very very expensive but there junk so sad for these big auto dealers maje junk now an make a whole lot of money for juck sad.
@@shedhouse7330I’ve seen these cars go insane mileage, I’ve also seen them fail at 70k. I’ll give you a guess what the oil was like in the 500k unit and the 70k unit. Nice and gold in the high mileage one. Completely black on the one with 70k that wouldn’t even start anymore. Labor is getting ridiculous for these cars so people just trade them in. I love getting them from auction because I can have it up and going in less than one day and I get them cheap at the auction.
it still is for cp jobs. doesnt change. with these engines always burning oil and being cakedup from running low on oil, its either a reman engine or piston job which turns into a full overhaul 9/10 times and costs more than an engine. @@shedhouse7330
The color on head is no good. It indicates me it burning oil due to failed piston rings because of low oil level. It not junk. It's because people don't know how to take care of maintenance. Ford broke down too. Honestly, Ford is much worse than Dodge, Nissan, and Toyota. I stick with Chevy.
Excellent video which I could easily follow as I own a Captiva with an Ecotec 2.4 LE9 engine fitted (80,000km). However, there are a few upgrades which can be fitted to the whole assembly making it far more reliable. My recommendations when attempting this job would be as follows: 1) only use quality new parts. 2) do not fit an OEM front (black) chain guide as they are prone to breakage at the top fixing hole, rather a racing version which can be obtained in the US online. It's much stronger and of a different material. 3) only use the upgraded stronger guide fixing bolts throughout, or at least the modified type for the top fixing for the front guide. All available in the US. 4) fit a new tensioner & cam VVT sprockets & always pre-lube. 5) fit new upper chain guide & fit 2 higher 10.9 grade fixing bolts. 6) remove existing valve cover bolts & replace with new higher grade 10.9 bolts. 6) check spark plugs are good, if not replace. 7) check compression. 7) check oil pressure. 8) remove sump pan and clean out thoroughly. 9) during assembly mark each bolt after final torque setting is reached. 10) just a small point - always check bolt threads for any damage before using, even when new. 11) be sure that your torque wrench is calibrated correctly. 12) fill with 4.7L of new synthetic 5W-30 oil (I use a Shell product which is excellent), fit beforehand a new filter either from Bosch or MANN, anything else is sub-standard. 12) fit a new AC Delco FC219 oil filler cap which has a blow-off valve incorporated. 13) run engine for 2000km and drain oil. 14) renew oil and filter. 15) in future always make oil changes using the same brand of oil & filter at max.10,000km intervals, irrespective of what the GM handbook or the oil manufacturer states. From a Brit. ex-Ford and almost Porsche engine builder in Germany.
Thanks for the input. I'll have to check into the aftermarket guides like you mentioned.
Who makes those racking guides?
@@dosgos summit racing probably has them. they a reputable and quick. got my 5.3 kit from them and it took 1 week to get it into canada. 230k kms later and no engine isuues yet
Dude I’ve been a master tech,shop owner and racer for 30 years started in mid 1980’s , and I’ve watched channels with 50-250k subs, and many are hacks, you know the type ,they can replace a engine, a timing belt, but give them a eco tech to swap the chain, they are morons,and lost..
I agree with you, shops have techs that have no clue what they are doing..you do what I used to do, buy broken stuff ,and fix it..
I have a p303 code. I replaced the plugs, the coil, did a oil change, replaced the oil filter and the front seal.. I also cleaned out the pcv system. Its still running a bit rough.. The stability trak light is on and the engine light is blinking..
My wifes dad died. He left her money to get us a family car. We got the Equinox thinking it would be a reliable car for us.
I wish i could catch a break and get a reliable vehicle for my family 🙏
Do a compression check. I've had several with burnt exhaust valves from the oil consumption.
The pcv system is writhing the plastic intake manifold there more than just that one tiny hole which clogged, there 4 other tiny holes running to each end of the manifold where it meets the head . Mine were all clogged , so I just replaced the hole intake manifold which fix my rough running condition like yours also my exhaust manifold was cracked , I also replaced that as well and did my timing chains , this car is solid it just needs a few things
@@jesusISsaviormartinez I haven't had one clogged completely on each intake runner, but I'll keep and eye out for that. I can usually blast air in the main port and get it all out.
My neighbor gave me a 2013 Equinox. Just got it home today. Pulling valve cover first and visually inspecting. I hope I can get by cheap with it ?
@@shedhouse7330 i did the compression test. All piston values read good except for #3.
It only has 35 PSI.. I have to take the top if the engine off. Im praying its just carbon built up making it stick open.. one thing I can say about this Equinox is this> (before the issues) it was January & my buddy lives off grid deep in the mountains.. One of the service roads was open so my buddy said take that road. As we entered there was roughly 3-4 inches on the ground but the road seemed decent.. well I thought.. Im not from his area so I wasn't familiar with this road. We where 1/4 of the way out when my buddy says> I sure hope the other gate is open.. I was like what dude?? Smh The snow got so deep it was rubbing against the bottom of the SUV.. I honestly thought we would get stuck and end up being a rescue story for some TH-cam channel.. lol This Equinox drove through this mess with no problems at all.. It handled better then any other vehicle I have ever drove..
This road was straight out of a horror movie.. After struggling to not go off a cliff for 30 miles we made it to the main road.. I couldn't believe we made it.. This SUV is truly a bad ass machine when ya get all the factory bugs out.. Its still in my driveway since my 1st comment... I really wanna get it up and running 🙏🙏🙏
Nice job. Appreciate the list of items to check. I've got a 2.4L Terrain at 150K and with each video I watch I get more sure it probably needs a chain and tensioner swap just to be safe. He is absolutely right, guys. Check that oil at least once a week, depending on how much you drive. You might benefit from a viscosity booster if you do have some oil consumption and/or rough idle. Change that oil EVERY 3000 miles. These direct 4 cylinders can't handle stress.
Im a 1 man auto shop. I have replaced at least 60 of these timing chains and probably 10 engines. The thing about just doign the timing chains is it doesnt address the underlying oil burning issues. That is the root cause of the timing chains being stretched. Sure you can make it run again but its still burning oil.
I agree, if they're burning oil the chains will stretch again if oil levels are left to run low. I'm a one man band too, so cheers to that! pcv systems can cause oil consumption and the direct injection causes fuel to get into the oil too. Have you done any piston kits on these? I've done a few to save from replacing an entire engine. I've had good luck doing the pistons, timing kit, water pump and injection pump. Really not that hard or expensive, compared to a new engine anyway.
@@shedhouse7330 Yes, but in terms of labor costs - is it about the same? Are the engines from Jasper an improvement? Mine is 2013 Equinox at 155K miles
I must be lucky I have a 2009 saturn and no oil consumption at all at 170k miles. I also did the whole cloyes kit with water pump at like 80k it's been good vehicle. I've also been meticulous with all the fluids. Seems like the DI ones have major issues with fuel wash.
I just had my timing chain,the rail guides,tensioner and the sprokets replaced for $3000 pesos in labor ($158USD) in Mexico,parts cost me like $150 bucks on ebay and had it done in like 6 hours that same day.I drive a 2016 Buick Verano 2.4l ecotech.Thank god i live on the border.
where did you have it done?
@2289273 i live in Brownsville,Texas and the border city in Mexico is called Matamoros,i get all my mechanical work over there and save thousands of dollars
I work on enough of these 2.4s the labor for engine swap vs timing chain is almost the same lol. Every time I do one of these I recommend a new water pump as well ... keep wrenching 👍👍👍
cost of timing chain kit vs engine ?
@TheRealSlimShady2012 If it's consuming oil you might as well have the whole thing rebuilt
@@MegaRpgPlayer All 2.4 engines consume excess oil. It doesn't matter if it's new or old, that's the problem they have.😊
@eduardoenriquez1897 bout to find out too ours was just rebuilt with updated rings and it got new pistons so it better not be burning any oil now too early to tell yet tho
😊
Change the oil regularly an me make sure the tiny PCV port in the intake manifold gets cleaned out EVERY oil change. You can prevent 95% of the problems with these engines just by staying on top of maintenance.
Very good video and information-- no-one wants to fix things anymore just replace or buy a new vehicle. I just had a buddy tell me his daughter drove her 2015 equinox to school came out wouldnt start- towed to shop told the engine was shot- replace for $7k-- i asked how did they determine the problem no one could give me an answer- offered to buy the old engine for $100 over core and they thought i was an idiot wouldnt sell it to me.
My 2011 Equinox just did this. Drove it to work just fine, tried to start it after work and wont start. I can hear the starter engage and try to crank but wont turn over. Got it towed to a shop and they said the engine is seized and I should just replace the whole engine which would cost about 5k if they just used a junk yard engine.
I had one where all valves were bent, no piston damage, replaced valves, rocker arms, t-chain, oil pump etc. Removed oil pan and cleaned everything out. Put it back together and it runs and drives perfect except it burns a ton of oil. I'm going to put pistons and rings in it soon. Hopefully it's going to be good after that. I think they all burn oil due to low tension piston rings and likely all need pistons and rings. Also, after doing the work, compression and leakdown tests were good.
Good work. I'm at the point now I'll put pistons in if i have to pull the head.
I thought most of the oil burning in these was mostly due to the PCV valve (valve cover replacement) or installing the updated oil cap with the integrated breather.
THANK YOU!! Finally someone who is knowledgeable about the 2.4L Ecotech engine…
My car was bucking and stalling when idling. Car sat a mechanic but they couldn’t fix it. They replaced the high pressure pump and still having issues.
Looking online looks like most common problem is the timing chain..cam.. cam phaser..oil consumption
My car was fixed after I followed a video online saying you can fix a bad cam phaser by getting a fresh oil change and then put the car in manual and getting the revs up high..
SO STRANGE but my car is purring now and fixed LOL
hurry up and sell it. these engines arent that great.
Sir you are a GREAT teacher, I bought a 2.4 Sunfire GT Convertible, my 2nd one, I Love that model, it runs Perfect but sporadically makes a rattling noise, now I see the problem, if the tensioner goes bad it slaps around and breaks the plastic guide on top, means it is flying around like a Pinball machine bouncing off of everything, WOW YOU ARE GOOD Thank You Sir., Have a Great Weekend.
@@billydoyle9984 glad I could help
I have a couple 2.2l Ecotec's and the timing kits only last about 50, 60, 80k miles, What happened with mine was the black timing guide on the intake side of the engine broke and got caught in all the gears and water pump pulley sounded like grinding metal shaving and even sounded like it was knocking at one point, Slapped a timing kit in there took me like a month to do in cold weather outside but $150 kit for my car versus $2000 for a shop to do, I also had a burning engine oil problem and put Lucas oil Engine oil treatment in it and it stopped burning oil also at one point used Liquid Moly Engine flush at one point and it ran so much better after flushing the engine.
My gf just had hers fixed it jumped timing at 105k miles just didnt start one morning never died on the road. It bent the valves so they replaced them and the pistons and rings because it was already consuming oil too. This was 5500 dollars for this fix at the local dealership. If youve got one of these engines in your car and it runs and drives take your loss and sell it before it blows up theyre utter garbage engines its a disgrace.
Its Gas Direct Injection, long drain intervals and poor spec'd oil by GM that is the root cause of oil consumption, chain weat carbon build up. GDI creates huge amounts of abrasive soot that wears the chain, high fuel dilution, which shears oil viscosity, oxidizes oil, the initial OLM would allow 10-12k oil changes. Soot, fuel, oxidized oil clogs oil control rings.
Good information, thanks for sharing.
High pressure fuel pump failure was causing gas in the oil on ours. 👍🏻
My kid heard his timing chain slapping and told me immediately. Fixed timing guide was broken off. We are repairing that.
Wish you were local my 2013 equinox is burning the oil
Very great! I got a 2010 Chevy Equinox 9 months ago from a dealership. It burns 1 quart of oil per 1000 miles. I got a low oil pressure warning when I was driving on the highway. When I pulled over and added 2 quarts of oil to the engine, I could start the engine without any code, but I heard big noises coming from timing chain area. One mech told me it may need to replace the timing chain (cost $2K). But with the burning oil problem, it is better to replace the whole engine ($ 5K-7K). Now, I am going to check the timing chain and maybe replace it. But, I know nothing about the car...trying to find some great videos talking about this problem,. Thanks very much for your great video!
Glad you liked the video. You're still going to have the oil consumption issue after doing the timing chain. You could possibly have a pcv issue causing some of the oil burning and that would be worth looking into. 2k for the chains alone sounds a little steep, but maybe your market can bring that much. Might want to call around a bit. If you replace the engine with a used one, you're basically in the same position you are now. You really don't know how good that replacement engine will be. If its new, that's different but still a lot to spend on a 2010.
I have a 2012 Malibu 2.4 same engine,first clean your pcv system.Its called the office.Take off the intake and clean it Carb cleaner with the straw in the hole.Put the intake back on.Change the oil with your choice .There is videos that will show you how to do it .I had the same problem. This will help
There’s more than just one tiny hole in the intake manifold gots to clear all them up
I have a 2012 Malibu. With 128k miles, No timing chain rattle. But i think I've seen tiny metal shavings on my last oil change.
you could always pull the valve cover and inspect the chain and guides.
Hey Shed house, just watched you vid, this will help me a ton. I just bought the same car with 140k mi. The original owner did a chain at 116k miles for like you said, paid $1600, Now at 140k they said its rattling and shut it off and I bought it (will open up before firing), So maybe something got loose. maybe phasers failed (dont know if replaced) So about to dive in. Thanks for the quality video.
My neighbor has one, was a vw tech. Going to pull the.valve cover tomorrow. Can hear the chain making noise. Random misfire codes. But no correlation codes.. 120k miles pretty sure was ran with low oil.
Great video. I had one yesterday and you can see the cam move independent about 20 degrees of free travel. The pin would lock into start position
Thanks for watching
I can't believe how many people fall into that trap of buying a new vehicle from the same manufacturer after having a horrible experience. I know they all have issues, but after seeing how widespread this is (or even the 3.6 chain issue!) I don't think my next vehicle will be a GM product. Bought our '14 Equinox new, and it only has just over 100,000 km, but I'm trying to decide the best course of action.
I don't really have the time to rebuild it, but I will as a last resort. I'm toying with the idea of pulling one at a wrecker and rebuilding that one, but also want to price out a long block from a local company. If they come with warranty and aren't too pricey, I might go that route.
I guess I'll go watch your video now!
What problems have you experience thus far?
@@tonycj7860 replaced the VVT solenoids, but then later must've ran it low on oil (🤬 oil rings) then it started clattering for a moment on startup (tensioner gone bad?) But I haven't dug into it to see what it needs. Should probably do something before it breaks lol. I really wonder how many are out there where owners changed oil diligently but still ended up with problems.
Edit: surprised it hasn't blow out the rear main seal. I was considering the vented cap and maybe a catch can once I check the PCV orifice.
Low oil and lack of freq oil changes will gum up the tensioners since they are run on oil pressure. Then chain slips and wala. And of course the stupid plastic tensioners.
I have a 2.4 ecotec in Polaris slingshot and it’s a great running engine. Mine is a LE5/ LE9. Not direct injection. Doesn’t consume any oil
GDI and turboes kill these engines. The port injected LE5s are great engines. 5k oil changes are required. Any engine you want to last needs that though.
@@revtimewest I supercharged mine and I’m running 10psi max boost. The 2.4 ecotec is a robust engine and if maintained it will go 250k. I could more power with more boost but that would require forged pistons . I figure 318hp at the rear wheel is enough.
What symptoms do you get if the phasers are going out? I just replaced the head on my wife’s and did new chain and guides but didn’t replace the tensioner or phasers, 2 weeks later I shut it off to go into a store and when I came out it would start, run for 3-5 seconds and then sputter out. On the scanner all parameters look good, no pending codes or tripped codes. My next step is to replace the phasers and tensioner as well as verify everything is still timed properly. I bench tested the solenoids and they ohm out good.
with a scan tool you should be able to see the command position of each phaser and the actual position, you can also command them to advance and watch for the command and actual position match. You should have codes if the phasers are bad.
DID YOU REPLACE THE OIL PUMP???????
I have a 2015 equinox 2.4 engine. Crank no start and my mechanic said I need an engine replacement. I have checked the valve cover and inside the intake and exhaust chamber.. both look good. My timing chain is in the same condition as the video. This gives me a piece of mind that it could potentially be a timing chain replacement.
By chance do you have a manual on how to complete a timing chain replacement.
I have 212k miles. The codes that populated P0172, P0191, P0016.
I use all data and prodemand. You can find a ton of videos on youtube covering the actual replacement of the chain. Good luck, hope it works out for you.
@@shedhouse7330 I will. Thank you 🙏🏾. I pray I can replace both the balance chain and time chain assemblies properly
Im SO happy that i bought the 3.0 liter 6 cylinder. Still runs like a top!!
Keep the oil changes up. The v6 has chain issues too 😞
Just had a new timing set put on my 2014 Malibu due to loose guides. Dealership told me engine was toast and to replace it. I only have 137,000 miles and was running and sounds fine. Independent shop laughed and said no a new set would save it. Yea it was expensive 1,500 but not 4,000 for a new engine or car.
case and point. Thanks for sharing
I have a 2012 buick regal with the 2.4 ecotec. It's giving codes p0014 and p0016. Car starts and idles fine in park. Surges and sputters and sometimes stalls in drive and reverse. But once you get it moving from stopped it seems to run fine. Only sputters and surges when stopped in gear. No surge in neutral. Changed the vvt solenoids and it didn't fix it. Dealer wanted 800 dollars just to diagnose it. Anyone know what the problem would be?
Whenever the part of the guide is missing you should drop the oil pan and remove the pieces. My mother's Equinox had the long black guide shatter and pieces of it were jammed inside the oil pickup screen. It also ruined the two bolts for that guide and the oil control valve screens were clogged with plastic from the guide. The amazing part was that it still ran and didn't jump time. It's also worth pointing out this this was the 2nd set of chains and guides that were put in this engine and they lasted less than 75K miles even though the oil level was kept up.
You are correct. When the guides come apart, it's important to clear off the oil pickup screen. I've done it many times. I go that far depending on what I can recover from the guides. If I can fish out the guides and piece it back together without any missing pieces, I've found pulling the pan to be a waste of time. However, you bring up a good point of previous guide failure, It would be hard to tell if someone left carnage in the pan previously. I need to start considering that!
My wifes 2014 just had its timing chain replaced. She loves the SUV and well worth getting fixed. Should've dropped the oil pan and clean that out of all the timing chain parts that broke off. They will get stuck to the oil screen and restrict the oil ,, which would make this happen sooner than it needs to happen.
Hey Shed house, your video helped a ton. All went well ,runs perfect but has rattle for first 5 seconds, I used a cloyes kit with new actuators ect. Experts please advise. 600 miles no oil usage. Thanks
Glad to hear. The water pumps can rattle on these. Did you change that out yet?
My 2011 Chevy equinox runs but the StabiliTrac light comes on and then it says reduce power. There is some codes on there. I’m so over it. I need some answer please🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️. From the codes I have to seems it needs a timing belt. I have P0016, P0017, P0036, P228D,, P0089 and Mass Air flow code. I have changed Intake+Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator+Camshaft Sensor+Engine Crankshaft Sensor, Mass airflow sensor, High pressure fuel pump, Fuel rail sensor, Both Purges valve and solenoid, Map sensor, Throttle body. I swear I will turn my ignition I go on the block the StabiliTrac light will come will come on and then the reduce power will show up. I don’t know what else to do. Can somebody please answer. I’m so lost. Do I need a Timing Belt??? Or Do I need to replace my wheel hub and the speed sensor???
As a 20 year ASE master status technician, this is why I'm glad I'm no longer in the field. It's impossible to compete with the dishonest mechanics who are working in the same repair shop. Owners will look the other way and "feed" the hack that they know well go for the "home run" sale under the false flag of covering their ass.
I also have no desire to keep up with the ridiculous amount of computer control and special service tools even required to service these newer vehicles
K bro what if didn’t have piston to valve contact before I pulled it apart can I reset the timing with the crank and not pulling the cams off ? Let me know
if the valves didn't hit the pistons, then yes replacing the timing chains should get you back up and running.
Very informative and detailed! Much appreciated!
I recently purchased a 2011 equinox 2.4l LAF that had low compression. Shop said the same, needed a new engine. The followers on the rockers are still intact. It looks like the same black timing guide broke on mine as well. I replaced all the timing chain components, and lined up all the markings to the chain and markings on the crank, and Intake/exhaust cams. I turned it a few times to ensure the chain wouldn’t jump and it was fine. I ran a compression test by placing the gauge in each cylinder and going through the starter process. Each cylinder came up with zero compression. I did you run a compression test after replacing the chain?
I also am going to test each cylinder by placing a little oil and seeing I get compression that way. I do have a camera I’ve placed inside each cylinder and it looks like it did take off some carbon off the top of the cylinders but no metal bouncing around. Piston heads looked fine as well.
If I place oil in the cylinder and it comes up with compression, would suggest a new engine? And what if I do put in oil and I still get no compression. Should I put it together and see if starting it fully built will help at all?
Tia
If I were you I would do a leak down test next. You may have slightly kissed the valves and pistons. That or your timing marks aren't lined up. How firm are the rockers when the valves are closed? they shouldn't have much play at all.
@@shedhouse7330 Thanks! And yes you were right, the moment I touched the rockers on the Intake side they fell apart. I've since replaced the heads and now have compression. This is a long shot, but I'm at a total loss with this. I have two black bolts, almost the size of a valve cover bolt with a little plastic piece around the stem near the bolts head. I have no clue where they went but I put them in a bag with the high pressure fuel pump bolts but have searched for days where they might go and I can't seem to find any logical spot to where they would go. Wondering if you've come across them or might know where they would go. hah thanks. If you don't that's fine. I may not use them if I can't find out where they go.
If it helps it reads 109 on the top of the bolt
@@blake9523 possibly the ignition coil bolts?
I don't see a video that you fid on the timing fix. Did you determine it wasn't fixable?
@@gadasavideos8564 yes, it was fixed and sold.
When checking those rockers a bent valve will have them fall out on their own or if you are able to wiggle them out?
Depends on how bent the valves are. I've seen them laying in the head and I've also seen them just loose where they could be pulled out.
Do you normally replace the balance shaft chain and tensioner/guides too? I've heard that's recommended since they can have basically the same issues as the timing chain.
@@seandknutson case by case. But usually I don't.
Update > i have no compression on cylinder 3.
Can i replace the valve on cylinder 3 myself to fix the problem? Or do i need some type of timing training first?
Wait a minute. Did you say you did the entire timing chain job in about 3 hours? While IN the vehicle?? Please do a video, would love to see how it can be done-
Yes, I've done them in three hours. With a lift and the procedure memorized. Torque spec and all.
@@shedhouse7330 hi did you just lift the engine up and do the timing replacement
Do you have a video
Thank you for your knowledge and expertise
@@richarddiaz8248 You don't need to pull the engine to replace the chains, if you need to pull the engine it can come out the top.
@@shedhouse7330 thank you Shed
Is there anyway I can email you and send you pictures to see if it’s worth fixing or replace the engine with a used one. I’m we have a 2015 gmc terrain
I’m trying to educate myself with all your videos. Shame I don’t live closer to bring mine to you. I’ve had my timing chain replaced about 3 years ago. Now I’m getting a cylinder 2 misfire. Any idea if this is all related?
I had cylinder misfire - also engine "dieseled" (ran on) after shutoff. Turns out it was the high pressure fuel pump - seal failed and fuel vapor leaked into crankcase and PCV system. Confirmed with OBD2 that fuel trims were lean - typically a mechanical issue, in my case fuel pump - but could be stuck open fuel injector.
12:01 Why didn't you compare the old chain to the new one, to see whether it stretched much? Good job, giving that vehicle a new lease on life.
I've done that in the past.
Good info 👊🏻
Glad it was helpful!
i have a 2017 Buick Verano 2.4 Eco Tek. Code came up that it was the VVT solenoid. Before replacing it. I went into the store. Came out and it would just crank over and not fire. I continued to try to start it and it tried but made ungodly clanking sounds. I shut it off immediately. pulled the valve cover off, all the rocker arms are snug except an intake one one cylinder one. It wasn't pooped out, it was sitting where it should be. It was just loose and I can remove it by hand. Would it be safe to say that there is a bent valve? I used a bore scope but did not see anything, there's one more that wiggles just a little. How much of that is normal?
If the cam lobe is off, aka pointing in the up position, you could have a little wiggle to the rocker. Since you can remove yours, it's save to say the valve is bent. It's normal for a chain to skip a tooth as the engine shuts down, the cams will want to stop before the crank. It sounds like that's what happened. You can fix this, but you'll need to pull the head and replace the valves. I would also recommend sending a camera down the spark plug hole to make sure you don't have damage to the piston. But I'll bet you don't.
What if it sounds like timing chain but it’s tight? I have side to side movement on my chain and rockers
@@Matt-k3e the phasers could be bad not allowing them to go into the parked, locked position. I've also had water pumps on theses engines rattle.
@@shedhouse7330 I rotated the engine by hand, when it rolled the chain slacked and then u can almost take chain off. Definitely believe it is the culprit now. I replaced the phasers first before tearing into the engine
Hello i have a chevy equinox and i was told by one mechanic i need a timing chain and then another mechanic said i need an engine. However, even if the engine is replaced will it still burn more oil? Also I can't say if the mechanic who told me I needed an engine did the visual or leak down test. But i can say that the mechanic who told me i needed a timing chain, he heard it as i was arriving.
the problem with buying a used engine is that you don't know the current condition of that engine. It could be one that wasn't taken care of, and burns oil. I'm a little unclear as the current condition of your engine. If it's still running, you do not need to replace the entire engine, the timing chains should be enough. That being said, you would want to ask the mechanic to inspect the PCV system for the clogged intake port while everything is apart. If your rings are causing oil consumption, you will still have that same problem after the chains are replaced. You will still need to monitor your oil level. If you replace this engine, you could still end up with an oil burner. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@shedhouse7330 thankyou. Yes the vehicle is still running. Got it scanned and no major codes came up except for needing a tune-up and I need an exhaust manifold I believe. Yup I was informed and researched that I will need to monitor oil continuously. And I believe the time chain does need replacement. I only plan on keeping the vehicle for another year. I had it about 4 years now
I’m in the situation where my 2017 Equinox with 107k miles has a blown engine due to the timing chain. I’ve been vigilant with oil changes and even had my car in less than a year ago for warranty work on the engine where my oil was mixing with coolant. The dealership fixed an issue with the crank seal and belt and noted a noise under the timing cover yet didn’t check the timing belt or chain..now I’m sitting with a blown engine. It’s so frustrating! $9323 to replace my engine installed.
That doesn't make any sense that they actually put that in writing. If they did, I would make them put the engine in under warranty or the extended warranty because it sounds like it had that problem BEFORE the warranty expired, they KNEW about it and didn't fix it. I would see them in court if they don't want to fix it
To whom it may concern.... There is a recall on the oil consumption problem. Could possibly cover timing chain issue. Worth the effort people.
Depends on where you are. I think GM of Canada only covered this issue for X number of years and/or X mileage. Sorry, I forget the specifics, but I think I even spoke to someone at GM about ours, and it's past those. It really sucks cuz ours only had just over 100,000 km, but I'm going to explore all my options. I might grab one from a wrecker and rebuild it slowly, or price out a reman long block. I can't really afford to get rid of it right now.
When you ear a sloppy chain 2-3 sec. on a cold day is it mean chain start to elongated ? Car is a 2009 G6 but just 40k miles. Do a new tensioner can catch up the slack or its better to think about do a timing chain job + balance shaft chain + waterpump and so on and so on. I think i may open valve cover the check but what you guys think ?
Could be the tensioner, could also be the vvt sprokets but I'm not sure if they had them on the 2.4 in 09. Id start with a good oil change and see if that helps.
@@shedhouse7330 oil is new, and yes it's VVT, and i think it's port injected. Im going to open valve cover and change tensioner.
@@jeanfrancoismenard705 quick tip, make sure to hold tension on the guide when you pull that tensioner out. Don't want the chain to skip.
Thanks, I think my chain is slapping at start up - car still runs OK. Engine burns about 1 quart every 2K miles - better than most. 2013 Equinox 2.4L, 155K miles.
This would cost about $1500 at a local shop (not dealer)?
Trade that thing in don't even bother lol
Awesome thanks
No problem!
Where are you located? My niece is in Portland with a 2016. Thank you for sharing, it’s been very helpful! I loved watching your other videos too 🤠
Thanks for watching! I'm in Illinois.
@@shedhouse7330 you’re welcome I appreciate your help!
@shedhouse7330 Where in Illinois?
Could you provide a parts list for this job? Put up some affiliate links, I’d be happy to use them.
CLOYES 94201SAVVT1 Includes VVT Sprockets and VVT Solenoids off rock auto or any other site. right now it's about $300 shipped.
Thanks!
Going to buy a used ecotec 2.4 anyway to test this when the engine is out of the car?
yeah, just pull the valve cover. easy
Hey ive got a 16 equinox 2.4 auto awd. Its showing 3 codes i think, p219a, p0420, p0014, p0013 which is mostly timing stuff, fuel air mix, exhaust. it runs great one trip next time splutters everywere with lose of power until get plugs burning hot or something. Ive definatly gotta get a new hose that goes to use to be a pcv on Valve cover. But can you tell me what i need to do the timing completeley. lifetime warranty parts i dont like when their cheap because it means ill still have to do it again. If you have time id like to know what to buy and a fair brand something to actually last. Also my engine had the tube stopped offf on engine so lots seals and gaskets leak. What seals and gaskets that wont come in a kit can i replace while tearing into that part of the engine and any other things you would suggest changing instead of what i said? Any seals i can get to def needs done. it has abt 200000. people complains abt the 2.4 but ive not had to do anything until now with a lil over 200. ours has been great and we live in the WV mountians so its been used well. I hope you can find the time, Thanks !!!
go with gm or cloyes timing components. Make sure the rear main isn't leaking, the pcv can cause that seal to push out. If its not, I'd pull the intake and clean the pcv orfice. The timing cover gasket set comes with a new front crank seal, you'll also need a valve cover gasket. It will hard with that many miles, and you have to remove the valve cover anyway. For the codes, start with the chain, when the engine is running with a bad chain the timing of valves everything else gets out of wack, so start with that and see how it goes. Also plan on doing phasers and actuators for the vvt.
HELP NEEDED, I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu with 2.4 le9 I started hearing chattering noise from the timing chain area after an oil chain, especially at idle and in gear, so I did a full timing chain kit and when the mechanic did the job he did find the upper chain guide (between the phasers) was eaten up, but even after this is done it's still making the same noise some times it dose even ratel on cold start(keep in mind that I did but an ACDelco timing kit) so after this I pulled the valve cover and turned the engine by hand and what I saw puzzled me, the chain get lose and then tightened as i turn the engine..
what could the problem be? My guess is the phasers.
Could be the phasers, need to check and see if they move with the cam. If the lock pin is broken that could be your noise. The tensioner could also be bad.
firstly I want to thank you for your replay!.
I was thinking the same thing, when I took the valve cover I did not notice much, but after reviewing the short video I took,I saw that when the chain gets loose the intake phaser turns slightly backward is that normal? @@shedhouse7330
as for the tensioner, it's brand new, and on top of that WHEN the chain gets tight (as I rotate the engine by hand the chain becomes tight and then loose and then tight back up) it is very tight and the chain does not move.@@shedhouse7330
firstly I want to thank you for the replay!.
secondly, after I reviewed the video of me spinning the engine by hand I noticed that when the chain gets loose the intake cam phaser turns slightly backward and when it does that the chain gets loose, is that normal?
as for the tensioner, it's brand new, and on top of that WHEN the chain gets tight (as I rotate the engine by hand the chain becomes tight and then loose and then tight back up) it is very tight and the chain does not move.@@shedhouse7330
I've read through a lot of the comments and a lot of you are mechanics an offer a lot of good advice my ecotec le9 is at 188,000 mi and I hear the clatter on startup not 100% of the time but probably like 90% of the time and I also have a tick in the engine, I'll be honest I'm a heavy driver it's fun to drive a slow car fast LOL but I also keep up with my oil changes and do it every 3 to 4 thousand miles and put a quart of Lucas in it. Any recommendations on what I should do?
I would keep driving it but keep an eye on the check engine light. If you have one pop up and timing codes are present....park it until you do the phasers and chain. Also keep your oil topped off.
Dorman makes a Timing Chain Guide Bolt replacement 917-954. Have you ever tried this? Some claim the tensioner needs to be unarmed for install, but I'm not sure that is the case due to the type of tensioner.
I heard that GM revised the tensioner. Is that worth just changing even if the timing chain is fine?
I keep one in stock. When the chain stretches it will beat the heck out of the guide, and after the guide fails the chain destroys the bolt that's left behind. The threads of the bolt end up in the head but there will be nothing left of the bolt itself. So, that dorman bolt saves you from having to extract the leftover bolt from the head before installing new chin kit. And yes, replace the tensioner with the revised part number. If your going in for timing chain work, plan on doing the entire kit. Chains, guides tensioner phasers and actuators.
Dude thank you so much just helped me solve my engine timing no start problem gonna fix some bent valves
No problem, hope you get it straightened out!
The tensioners fail on these cars. There's like 2 revisions since new.
I have a 2014 equinox and it started burning a little oil at only 32k miles and it was in 2021 ish and my warranty expired in 2017 so now at 70k miles it’s starting to get worse but I’ve done the oil change every 3k miles since new and it down shifts harsh when I’m slowing to a stop at a light like 2nd to 1st shift. It also runs rough I’ve fired the parts cannon and can’t find it I even did all the motor mounts and the engine kinda sounds like it rattles when k slowly accelerate, surely it can’t need timing chains already? No codes at all too!
See if the water pump is seeping. The pumps can make a rattle sound, usually after a little heat gets into them they get louder.
When I hear a rattle on my 2013 terrain I KNOW it’s low on oil. I installed a oil catch can, oil pressure relief cap, and cleaned the pcv orifice on the intake manifold 2 weeks ago. Supposedly this will help with oil consumption and preserve the rear main seal.
@@yausaptheshasuabary180The rear main usually only blows out or leaks when the moisture in the breather or air cleaner freezes and the crank case pressure gets to high.
Change your variable valve timing solenoids they are located on the top of your engine easy to get out one bolt and electrical plug on them these valves get dirty and stick causing your car to run rough and also is what is causing your shift problem they are about $70.00 each replace both and all your problems will be gone your welcome!
@@AnthonyKeith-xs4or I did that already I gave up and got a 2023 Tacoma lmao
CAN I REPLACE A 4 cylinder EQUINOX with a V6 ENGINE?
Probably but you'd likely be backwards twice the cars value
So I did my wife’s 2012 terrain 2.4L.. how do I know if I have it at TDC on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke?
If the valve cover is off l, watch the cam lobes. If you pull the plug you can look down into the cylinder and see the piston. Otherwise they make a whistle that connects to the compression gauges hose. Only makes noise when the valves are shut
@@shedhouse7330 I made my own with a ballon and it never inflated at all but inflated in all other valves
@@nextdoorpowerwashing8340 never thought to use a balloon. That's a pretty good idea.
I took the valve cover off and found one rocker arm broken in half with the roller bearing sitting under the lobe 😢 rip
Bummer. Pull the head and put valves in it. Check for a hole in a piston via the spark plug hole first.
I just redid my wife's timing chain 2012 terrain 2.4L, the car ran rough after like it did when it needed the chain. did a compression test no compression on #3 only. Pulled the head did a valve job. put it all back together , timing good valves seated goot after lapping in. still no compression on #3 1,2,4 200psi, #3 0. Im a beginner. WHT is my problem..Also did a wet compression on #3 no change in compression still 0..... Im stuck with this engine...NEED HELP!
I'd say you're more than a beginner, you did some serious work. That being said, if you have zero compression the culprit should be glaringly obvious. Are you positive the exhaust valves weren't burnt? I've ran across many 2.4s with low compression and a burnt/ cracked valve. When you had the head off, did you flip it upsidedown and put fluid in the combustion chamber? Water works but thinner fluids like acetone is better. I've caught some leaks around the valves that way. Seeing as you mentioned that you lapped the valves, I'll assume there fine, but you should consider doing a leak down test in addition to the compression test. I've ran across one car in my life that had an exhaust port completely blocked with carbon. It had extremely low compression and a dead cylinder. Double check your valve train looks good under the valve cover, if the rockers slipped out the valves can't open, but to have them both fall out on intake or exhaust would be odd. No improvement on the wet compression test has me leaning towards something missed in the head. Do that leak down and let me know what you find. I'm intrigued now.
@@shedhouse7330 no compression on #3 before the valves were done… I’ll have to get a cylinder leak tool tomorrow, don’t own one… still no compression.
@@shedhouse7330 tickets all seem good. Nice and tight no wiggle. Car never ran hot or chain never completely came off.. the other think I’m worried about is if this engine has been replaced with an earlier model, if so then the timing is going to be different. I think the cam marks need to be at 10 &5 for 2011 and newer and about 7&5 for 2010 and older
@@shedhouse7330 did leakdown on all cylinders! 1,2,4 did great minimal loss over time.. #3 would not even hold air at all @ 100 psi. With the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke I can hear and feel air coming out the tail pipe.. so the exhaust valves are not closed or leaking… I’m surprised because I put all new valves in all the chambers…. # 3 didn’t have compression before I did the valves.. no air coming into water/ no bubbles so I’m confident the head is good… I guess I have to pull it all off again and redo the valves on the number 3 cylinder… lot of work. Geesh! Not what I wanted to do..
@@shedhouse7330 so here is the whole of it.. timing jumped.. replaced the timing chain… ran rough. Misfire #3. Did compression on all cylinders 1,2,4 all good 200 psi after 6 revolutions of the motor on each cylinder… pulled the head thought it might be a bent valve, lapped and replaced all intake and exhaust valves….. put it back together,retimed.. started right up.. running rough.. misfire #3 still. All new plugs and ignition coil packs…… still no compression on #3 cams, risers all good and tight… cleaned injectors while I had them out… all new gaskets no leaks. Not over heating… head is good I’m sure… my next thing is to just pull the head again and redo #3.. with The head off I put plastic wrap over the cylinders to see if they sucked in on exhaust stroke and out on compression stroke… all good so I don’t believe it’s the piston rings.. never had smoke or anything out the tail pipe…. I’m lost.. what next? Pull the head again.. or what.. need expert advice.
Do you know why the low oil pressure light doesn’t come on in time to be helpful?
they do have one, I may have misspoke. There are issues with them not coming on and that's what I meant to say.
I have a 2010 Malibu 2.4 eco... I don't have any oil consumption, but my chain started slapping, how often is it just caused by the upper chain tensioner?
hard to say and it's hard to see even with the valve cover off. I mainly see bad chains.
I have an 08 2.4 cobalt. The FSM set that I bought with the car in 08 says 100K miles is the frequency of timing system life. Mine doesn't use that much oil, but maybe 1 qt or less every 6 months. The car does no milage, so I use the 2x a yr. oil change rule. I watch the oil life monitor and when I get to 40% I start to look to change out the oil & filter. That usually is 2x a yr. I have 94K on mine.
Good stuff
I have a 2015 Malibu it stop starting up cause of my timing chain ,is it to late to put the new timing chain on there or just trash the engine
I'd pull the valve cover off and have a look. 50/50 at this point.
Could it still be the timing chain if the engine is seized? I took off the valve cover and everything looks fine.
Sound's like it's something else.
Check starter mine was stuck and had engine locked up
Could have treated the pistons with B12 Chemtool while it was apart to soak the rings and free up the oil rings.
I have this engine. It thought it had a broken timing chain but I opened it up and the timing chain looks fine. Way down in the hole I can see a different chain laying there. What could that be?
there are two chains, the main chain that causes all the problems and the chain that drives the water pump and balance shafts.
Thank you! I thought my engine was shot but maybe I should pull it out and try fix it.@@shedhouse7330
So typically only one chain is replaced? The balance shaft chain can be kept? @@shedhouse7330
That's your chain for the water pump
My 2015 gmc terrain drove fine to work once i got out it turned on and cut off.towed it home took checked oil had none but i checked oil week prior ,so i took off valve cover and top guide plastic gone my gmc has 95k no codes,slapping of the chain,will i need a new engine ?
Did you inspect the rocker arms to see if any were popped out?
@@shedhouse7330 I could pull out the rocker follower out but when the top of lobe is up or either half way
@@10sandovalallan If you can pull them out you have bent valves. Even when the lobe is in the "off" position there is still a little preload holding the followers in place.
I should add, this isn't necessarily a death sentence for the engine. I've repaired this issue many many times by pulling the head and replacing just the bent valves. along with a timing chain set of course.
@@shedhouse7330 do you have social media so I can send you a picture of it
Whats your opinion on drilling oil drain holes into pistons? Jasper drills 12 extra holes into their pistons. Worth it on a shade tree rebuild?
I've never tried that
Wouldnt that compromise your compression? 😅
@@revtimewest do you understand the parts of a piston? what part of drilling into the skirt would compromise compression? any halfway knowledgeable person would know thats what we are talking about
I tried your method of turning the key while pressing on the pedal and my car cut on finally 😮💨. I think heard the timing chain in the Chevy Malibu 2011 2.4L banging around. I also smelled a burning of something possibly oil ? Anyways I think my issue has been solved I just need the money now to fix it 🥲
If it started you probably don't have bent valves, so that's a good sign. Don't try to start it anymore. Pull the valve cover and you should be able to see the sloppy chain and missing guides. Good news is the chain kits can be had for less than $200. Plenty of videos in here for diy.
@@shedhouse7330 it’s weird because I just changed my gasket seal and didn’t notice any signs of the chain being messed up. The piece above the chain was broken though. The mechanics I called said they would charge 2,500k for fix it and some said they don’t want to mess with it at all. I may look into doing it myself again. Thanks
@@camworldpeace5949 if the plastic guide at the top is broken, I would just about guarantee you have a stretched timing chain.
The oil monitor time frame Gm uses is to long when the oil monitor says 30% left. Only synthetic oil with dextos additive high quality synthetic oil filter! A vented oil filler cap and the drilling of the the intake so you can clean the orifice every 50,000km a catch can if you live in a area where you get below zero during winter. My 2015 150,000 km running perfectly and burning zero oil! ZERO!
Do I have to do a timing chain if I only need to change a phaser?
Technical answer is no, but it's a risky task if you've not done one. I've done it by pulling the cam out while holding the phaser on the chain and then swapping the phaser while keeping the chain pulled up and tight. Wore case the chain slips, you'll end up doing the chain anyway to re time it. spin it over a few times by hand after you get it back together in case the chain did slip. Better to find out rolling it over by hand than having it bend valves when you crank it up.
@@shedhouse7330 thank you so much!
If you don't need an engine, get rid of it before it's too late.
I would think that tensioner stayed in because of lack of oil changes contaminated oil
Absolutely
what timing chain kit would you recommend?
Your best option would be gm from the dealership. Second best would be cloyes. I've used lesser brands without issues as well but it's one of those things you don't really want to cheap out on.
@shedhouse7330 thanks for the advice I think im gonna go with cloyes. It's kinda a beater car at this point I really only need it to last another year but don't wanna go super cheap with it.
Cloyes usually in stock local stores. But they are real good kits actually. Not super cheap. Cloyes and GM for sure.
Great video, it’s a little crazy shop’s taste a pass on timing chain jobs. My son and I are changing the timing chain in a 2014. It has pretty significant consumption issues, we’re toying with the idea of putting new rings in it. I’m curious what your success rate is for replacing the rings. Not sure how far down the rabbit hole we wanna go before it just not worth it.
You can get a piston kit with rings online. Makes the swap faster so you don't have to clean the old pistons. you'll have to pull the head and the oil pan, but it can be done without pulling the engine. I've never replaced just the rings, but I'm sure that would also work.
I need the diagram of the timing
I don't have one off hand but there are tons of diagrams online. Even videos on TH-cam for setup.
Think mine is good no brakes plan to scrap soon .
The engine is worth some big money if it still runs. Should be able to get a grand or more on FB.
The shop doesn't want to commit to a maybe. Or be married to it because it didn't fix the whole issue. I get it but i also get fixing the chain. Really open to either
Actually the valve hits Piston and and cam presses down as it should and then it crushes the rocker. Admit every one you've ever found is damaged not just laying on head. So every time round up every piece and chase those pieces down the oil passages with magnet. Literally any lost needles will kill oil pump.
Not once have I found roller damaged the way you describe, although I assume it's possible. The edge of the cup the lifter sits in has been cracked off before, but that is it. The rocker arms are found laying in the head, intact and not in fragments.
Hey man, I uploaded a video of my 2014 gmc terrain that is not starting. I am being told it’s the timing chain. Can you please watch it and tell me don’t have much money.
Definitely sounds like it doesn't have compression. Could have bent valves
I got a gmc terrain 2.4l for sale
where are you located?
Oh my god, a dealer ship recommending an engine replacement to sell a new car. 😑 This literally is an everyday occurrence. Don’t go to a dealership for service work.
I simply replaced my timing tension that’s on the back of the head and went to start to activate tension boom no start..Scrapping it tomorrow never going to Chevy again in my life I hate Chevy now
Pure Junk get rid of it soon as you can that's what I going to do probably going scrap yard
You can buy my car. New timing went out in less than six months. I'm in Tennessee
Do you know what brand the chains are?
Give me a few days ill look for the receipt
@@shedhouse7330what chain/guide sets do you use in these? I’ve been doing the same thing. Been using ACdelco kits.
Did you find it?
Noise is common with this engine and they just keep on going
Load up the parts cannon! You’re gonna need about a engines worth lol 😂
What I don't understand is why would they put basically a peace of juck engine there not like the use to be now the put all this wired components on them like what's the point of a high pressure fuel pump that's on the engine whats wrong with the one in the tank cuz there's also one in the tank well there just junk then I had a 1996 Toyota Tercel with 300 thousand miles on it an it still ran like a champ dont think these worthless engines they put in these cars these day will even get that fare these new cars a very very expensive but there junk so sad for these big auto dealers maje junk now an make a whole lot of money for juck sad.
@@fastfredamen EPA
People don't really understand that they have to change the oil often to avoid these problems. My ecotec had 230,000 and running strong.
I agree, they can last a long time with regular maintenance.
@@shedhouse7330I’ve seen these cars go insane mileage, I’ve also seen them fail at 70k. I’ll give you a guess what the oil was like in the 500k unit and the 70k unit. Nice and gold in the high mileage one. Completely black on the one with 70k that wouldn’t even start anymore. Labor is getting ridiculous for these cars so people just trade them in. I love getting them from auction because I can have it up and going in less than one day and I get them cheap at the auction.
theres reasons we recommend engines. gm says that. so you acting like we are prematurely condemming the engine is wrong lol/
When a car is under warranty that may be the case. Not true for a customer pay job. Offering options should always be on the table.
it still is for cp jobs. doesnt change. with these engines always burning oil and being cakedup from running low on oil, its either a reman engine or piston job which turns into a full overhaul 9/10 times and costs more than an engine. @@shedhouse7330
Just bought one lol😂😂
The color on head is no good. It indicates me it burning oil due to failed piston rings because of low oil level. It not junk. It's because people don't know how to take care of maintenance. Ford broke down too. Honestly, Ford is much worse than Dodge, Nissan, and Toyota. I stick with Chevy.