Cambelt change on a Morini 350
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ค. 2015
- People often ask how difficult it is to chenge the cambelt on a Morini V-twin. I've always said, very easy, you can do it in 20 minutes and I think I could do it in under 10. See how close I got and I still wasn't pushing for a really fast time!
- วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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About to do this job myself now, thanks to your video!
Hi Paul
Enjoyed seeing the birth of a new Guinness World record category "Speed Maintenance"
Just what I needed to see, thanks mate, well explained
You are right that is an easy job .. Good share !!
That was done in two shakes! Good clean fun...Aloha, Chuck
great video Paul
Fantastic timing !! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Paul, useful video. May I ask the size of the cam belt? Is there just one size for 350 Sport? I have 1979 model. Thanks again
it;s ABSOLUTELY same like mine . Great ! ... goosebumps ...
Lo felicito por el vídeo, tengo una morini 350 xe, lleva parada más de 10 años en la cochera, está tapada, la quiero hacer andar, que me recomiendas que le haga al motor???
well done.
That's really helpful, Paul, and the last time I changed the belt on my 1980 electric start 3.5 Sport, it went well. This time, however, I got the cam and crank out of sync, how do I set it up, please?
Make sure that neither piston is at TDC, then first align the cam pulley timing marks, followed by the crank.
Aye Paul, thank you for the clear and informative video. Any suggestions for tackling the job after somebody has used a 'Loctite' type material on the taper? :¬( It is white in colour after curing (inside of generator nut threads). I am using an air gun and extractor as you do. I have also used the extractor, locked by a 18" adjustable spanner and applied torque to the set screw using the impact socket and a 600mm bar, resulting in twisting the 12mm set screw! I have also applied heat with a hot air gun to the central boss of the starter motor/alternator rotor until it smoked after 4 minutes application and then using both the air gun and the 600mm bar methods, has so far resulted in no movement! Thank you for your time. BillR
I've had one rotor defeat me. It had the cleanest tapers I think I've seen on a Morini and had been fitted way to tight. I ground off the rivet heads and removed the magnet housing and then ground the hub off the crank. Grind over the keyway to avoid any damage to the crank. Rotors are fairly easy to find, stators more difficult and/or expensive.
@@EVguru Aye Paul, thank you for taking the time to reply to my query. Further developments today, before receiving your reply. After heating the area around the rivets, evenly, with a gas torch (MAPP torch) until the metal was a dark red/black, I tried the extractor, with the air gun and had no success. So, after reheating again applied the bar and sheared the 12mm 8.8 HT set screw!!!**********!!!! Now to extract the extractor from the rotor centre! I have left hand drills to remove the broken set screw and will likely give the grinding technique a try. As an aside; the extractor appears to be 30mm across the flats, but when measured exceed this by 0.4mm! So, a little patience and removal of metal should enable the use of a good ring spanner rather than the worn socket or 18" adjustable spanner that I possess. The socket due to a lack of depth, only grips half the face of the extractor body flats and this too could be rounded off unless I am carefull. I note from the MRC forum "RE: Stubborn flywheel removal", 16, July 2017, that plumbers freeze spray worked, so will give that a try before applying the grinding wheel! My regards, BillR
Excelente!!!!
In my opinion it is advisable to heat the flywheel to about 80 degrees before assembly. Otherwise there is a risk that it will come loose, the Woodruff key then shears off and the cone seat has to be ground in again with great effort.
I've done dozens over the years. Never had one come loose, or be very difficult to remove.
Recently a service center tried to change my belt, but was unable to get the stator cover off. What is the name of that tool you use, or do you have a part number that I could look for it online?
Flywheel/rotor thread is right hand - M27x1.25mm . Feked do one.
Hello, sorry to bother you I have a morini kanguro X2 and I need to adjust the chain but can't find any info on the amount of play, whether at the top or bottom of the chain or if the bike needs to be supported in the middle or on the ground. If you know what the answer to this is I would be happy to know.
I've not worked on the off-road bikes, but I seem to recall they have a chain tensioner. The Morini Rider's Club forum would be a good place to ask, or the email list on the Micapeak server.
OK, thanks for the reply.
Don't you have to put a drop of Loctite on any bolt of alternator stator ?
No, never had one come loose.
How did you wash the oil filter? Thanks.
Brake cleaner in a closed container.
My cenge 1978...Pirelli Isoran...
hi i'm having the wheels rebuilt on my 77 3 1/2 strada does anyone know what the rim sizes should be ? there's nothing marked
+trampsdog OEM Radelli rims would have been marked.
Sizes are WM1 - 1.85"x18" front and WM2 - 2.15"x18" rear. Don't use stainless steel spokes if it's a disc braked version, they tend to foul the callipers. They're too thick and can't be bent tight enough.
For tyres, I'd recommend Avon Roadriders, 90/90 front and 100/90 rear.
there's nothing marked, my other strada has 'sanremo trial' rims wm2 185x18 and wm3 215x18 are these the right sizes anyone ?
+trampsdog Sorry, yes. WM2 and WM3 ; 1.85" & 2.15"
thanks , your videos are a great help by the way
9:38 no torque wrench?