Just a tip. Best way I have found to frame is to draw a box the size of your work piece and put it on a cut layer and turn the power down to 5% and 50 speed. Then you can watch where the laser actually is instead of relying on the crosshair for framing. Much faster and accurate as well. Good video.
Awesome, I built a cnc machine and have been considering buying a 10w laser for it and this video really helped me see what materials I can cut or engrave with it. I'm still looking to see what else it can do as it's not a plasma cutter so I can't expect anything crazy but precise acrylic cutting and etching other materials are convincing me more and more
Good video, I did notice when you were showing the first version with the frame tool on, it was noticeably outside of the frame. Easy enough to miss, learning curve can cost some, believe me I know from experience. If I may make one suggestion however, I would attach your air assist hose to your laser control cable so it follows the tract as it looks to have a great chance of getting snagged during a project and possibly causing it to pull the head off the project line.
I had planned to attach the hose after the first week. I haven't lost a project because of it, (yet). But the reason I haven't yet, I've been expecting another manufacturers air assist to do a review on. Supposed to have already been here. As soon as I do a secure attachment of my existing air supply, the new one will show up. And another reason I haven't, I'm lazy. Thanks for watching.
I believe that there is a setting in LightBurn that will ramp the laser power up when it’s starting a new cut. If I understand that setting correctly, that should eliminate those white spots.
Hi, Hobo!! I am waiting for my xTool D1 20w pro to arrive and am watching all of the content I can. With the burn marks on the front - to save some time with clean up - could it be mirror printed so that the burn marks are actually on the back? Or - is the effort to clean that up not really a big deal? I'm pretty excited - I'm glad I found your channel :)
I'm glad you found my channel, too. I'm in the shop right now. As soon as I finish the current tests I'm working on, I'll give this a try and we'll find out. I'm going to be posting some test results tonight involving engraving clear acrylic. If you haven't, please subscribe. I'm just starting out and need all the help I can get. Thanks for watching and I'll post the result to you question soon.
Okay, here's what I learned when trying your suggestion. 1.) I did not notice the initiation burn mark from the laser on the back side. So, a mirrored image probably wouldn't have those to clean up. BUT... 2.) I remembered that the back side had a lot of residues to clean up. You could actually see the pattern from the honeycomb from the smoke and gases from cutting the acrylic. And from what I've seen the honeycomb is essential to getting the best cut. So, I'll be sticking with cutting the normal image and a little cleaning on the front. Great question. Thanks again for watching. Subscribe. Subscribe. Subscribe.
Is this what you do? I would be concerned about the paper wanting to catch fire of the residual heat held in the paper causing unwanted marking on the surface of the acrylic.
@@HoboWithWood no there are videos out there showing people cutting with the paper on the back side often. being you can cut cardboard with the lasers which is paper in itself. course you may have to fiddle with power and settings to get it right.
Hello friend, I have two questions: 1) What was the cause for the flat edges on the right and bottom of the design coming out? 2) Is the black acrylic you use 3mm? 3) What about this scale that appears on the left of the frame of your machine? Thanks
I will make a video today and post it today. I will share my cut library and how to use it. I'm happy to share and it would help me greatly if you subscribed to the channel. I am new to this whole thing. The laser, TH-cam, creating desirable content, etc. So comments like this are extremely appreciated. Thanks for watching. Subscribe and sign up for notifications so you don't miss the content you asked for.
@@NinjaHempKnight I thought you were asking about the setting on a different video. My mistake. Here are the settings I used to cut the acrylic. 3mm/s at 100% power and 2 passes, sorry I wasn't paying attention. Thanks for watching.
It is not. It is black. So far, it's the only color I've worked with. My understanding of these smaller diode lasers is they cannot cut clear acrylic. The blue diode laser simply passes through without effecting the material at all. For your best luck you should stay away from the mirrored. It is essentially clear acrylic with a treatment on one side to create the mirrored look. xTool sales a "Frosted Clear" acrylic in their store. But when you look at their material settings, practially everything fails to cut or engrave semi clear acrylic. I have had so success with engraving vector images on clear acrylic. But it does require some additional steps to produce and image on clear. I have at two videos on engraving clear acrylic. I recommend you watching those. If you have a lot of mirrored material, you might try my techniques using your material. Follow all my tips on clear material, but using mirrored acrylic, remove the protective paper from both sides, place the acrylic face down and engrave through the mirrored backing. This may create a really nice piece. You'll have to follow my process exactly. Don't skip any steps. Engraving clear is tricky but I've been successful. Good luck and let me know if you try to engrave the mirrored acrylic from the back. I'd love to know how that turns out.
When I have no idea what settings to use on a product, this is where I start. They don't work perfectly every time, but it's a great place to start. www.xtool.com/pages/material-settings I think this particular cut was with 3mm/s and 100% power.
This is what I bought. Black Acrylic Sheet, Plexiglass Sheets 1/8 inch Thick - 14" x 14" Inches with Protective Paper, Cast Acrylic Panel, Black Plexiglass Board, Acrylic Glass Sheet (1/8", 3-Pack) a.co/d/3VVGYqr
No. To my knowledge, no diode laser can cut clear acrylic. I have no comprehension of the science behind it, but it has to do with the frequency of a blue diode. The blue laser passes straight through clear material with little or no effect. Initially, I thought it was about the limited power of a 10W laser. But that's not it. It's all about the frequencies.
To start I use the settings xTool recommends on their material settings page. Here is the link. www.xtool.com/pages/material-settings But ultimately, I perform test burns and cut tests on all materials to determine the best settings for my laser. My laser I believe to have been defective from day one. I have had to replace the module after only five months. I had built up a rather large library of test libraries of my own using my laser. I've unfortunately discovered they are no longer relevant to the new module. It produces entirely different results compared to the first module. So, the only way to learn what works best for your module is to test, test, and test some more. Tests are boring. But that's how you learn you lasers capabilities. But I do attempt the xTool recommended settings on an initial cut or engrave. If it's unsuccessful, I start my tests. Good luck with your laser adventures. Thanks for watching.
Hey Hobo, I am not trying to tell you how to suck eggs because you are out there doing stuff and I am only watching; so my respects to you. I might have cut a life-size practice part on a piece of scrap wood first to validate everything before using a 20 dollar piece of plastic. Right now wood is a little cheaper than acrylic, (right now anyhow) so if you have the time it may be worth the effort to do a prototype first. Anyhow, good luck with your business and I hope you do well.
After this experience, I've started using the Prime boxes to cut a trial piece. Thanks for watching. Like using the boxes, in my shop nothing goes to waste. I was able to use the first piece to make lots of earrings. I've only been doing this since Father's Day this year. Documenting my experience, the good, the bad and the ugly. Please subscribe and feel free to offer any helpful constructive criticism on any video I post.
Thank you for acknowledging this video made your world spin. This was in my early days of TH-cam, and I was trying to use the phone for everything. But just knowing that these old videos are still capable of making the world spin for folks like yourself. If you get too dizzy, might I suggest you sit. I could suggest where if you'd like.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.75[1/2] ชวนแร็ปเปอร์เที่ยวประแสแบบไม่ต้องตามกระแส](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/J5ds2AxDp24/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a tip. Best way I have found to frame is to draw a box the size of your work piece and put it on a cut layer and turn the power down to 5% and 50 speed. Then you can watch where the laser actually is instead of relying on the crosshair for framing. Much faster and accurate as well. Good video.
Either use T1 or T2. Will that work too?
You have definitely gotten better with camera over time.
Awesome, I built a cnc machine and have been considering buying a 10w laser for it and this video really helped me see what materials I can cut or engrave with it. I'm still looking to see what else it can do as it's not a plasma cutter so I can't expect anything crazy but precise acrylic cutting and etching other materials are convincing me more and more
Good video, I did notice when you were showing the first version with the frame tool on, it was noticeably outside of the frame. Easy enough to miss, learning curve can cost some, believe me I know from experience. If I may make one suggestion however, I would attach your air assist hose to your laser control cable so it follows the tract as it looks to have a great chance of getting snagged during a project and possibly causing it to pull the head off the project line.
I had planned to attach the hose after the first week. I haven't lost a project because of it, (yet). But the reason I haven't yet, I've been expecting another manufacturers air assist to do a review on. Supposed to have already been here. As soon as I do a secure attachment of my existing air supply, the new one will show up. And another reason I haven't, I'm lazy. Thanks for watching.
Do you cover the opaque ones with tape also?
I believe that there is a setting in LightBurn that will ramp the laser power up when it’s starting a new cut. If I understand that setting correctly, that should eliminate those white spots.
I couldn't find anything thing. If you know where to find this, please share. Thanks for watching.
What were your settings?
Awesome. Would you put a link to the acrylic or a similar acrylic?
Completely new to this TH-cam thang. I will edit the video description with a link to the acrylic I bought. Thanks for watching.
Done.
Steve where did you get your Stencil font. I tried looking on line and so far have not found one I like. Dave
It was part of my fonts on my laptop. I haven't purchased any fonts. You might be able to download one from Microsoft.
@@HoboWithWood Thanks Dave
Hi, Hobo!! I am waiting for my xTool D1 20w pro to arrive and am watching all of the content I can. With the burn marks on the front - to save some time with clean up - could it be mirror printed so that the burn marks are actually on the back? Or - is the effort to clean that up not really a big deal? I'm pretty excited - I'm glad I found your channel :)
I'm glad you found my channel, too. I'm in the shop right now. As soon as I finish the current tests I'm working on, I'll give this a try and we'll find out. I'm going to be posting some test results tonight involving engraving clear acrylic. If you haven't, please subscribe. I'm just starting out and need all the help I can get. Thanks for watching and I'll post the result to you question soon.
Okay, here's what I learned when trying your suggestion.
1.) I did not notice the initiation burn mark from the laser on the back side. So, a mirrored image probably wouldn't have those to clean up.
BUT...
2.) I remembered that the back side had a lot of residues to clean up. You could actually see the pattern from the honeycomb from the smoke and gases from cutting the acrylic. And from what I've seen the honeycomb is essential to getting the best cut.
So, I'll be sticking with cutting the normal image and a little cleaning on the front.
Great question. Thanks again for watching. Subscribe. Subscribe. Subscribe.
try cutting the acrylic with the paper still on it, if yours comes with it. That will make less cleanup in the end
Is this what you do? I would be concerned about the paper wanting to catch fire of the residual heat held in the paper causing unwanted marking on the surface of the acrylic.
@@HoboWithWood no there are videos out there showing people cutting with the paper on the back side often. being you can cut cardboard with the lasers which is paper in itself. course you may have to fiddle with power and settings to get it right.
Hello friend, I have two questions:
1) What was the cause for the flat edges on the right and bottom of the design coming out?
2) Is the black acrylic you use 3mm?
3) What about this scale that appears on the left of the frame of your machine? Thanks
1.) I didn't have the acrylic framed properly.
2.) I believe so.
3.) Not sure what you"re talking about, a timestamp would help figure it out.
I have the same laser. xTool D1 10 W. Would you mind sharing your settings: speed / power / # of passes. thanks for the video
I will make a video today and post it today. I will share my cut library and how to use it. I'm happy to share and it would help me greatly if you subscribed to the channel. I am new to this whole thing. The laser, TH-cam, creating desirable content, etc. So comments like this are extremely appreciated. Thanks for watching. Subscribe and sign up for notifications so you don't miss the content you asked for.
If you haven't noticed, I posted a video with my settings.
@@HoboWithWood what's the name of the video
@@NinjaHempKnight I thought you were asking about the setting on a different video. My mistake. Here are the settings I used to cut the acrylic. 3mm/s at 100% power and 2 passes, sorry I wasn't paying attention. Thanks for watching.
@@HoboWithWood Is that using a 10watt or 5watt, or 20watt?
Is that mirror acrylic. I had no luck with the mirrored acrylic cutting so the way through.
It is not. It is black. So far, it's the only color I've worked with. My understanding of these smaller diode lasers is they cannot cut clear acrylic. The blue diode laser simply passes through without effecting the material at all. For your best luck you should stay away from the mirrored. It is essentially clear acrylic with a treatment on one side to create the mirrored look. xTool sales a "Frosted Clear" acrylic in their store. But when you look at their material settings, practially everything fails to cut or engrave semi clear acrylic. I have had so success with engraving vector images on clear acrylic. But it does require some additional steps to produce and image on clear. I have at two videos on engraving clear acrylic. I recommend you watching those. If you have a lot of mirrored material, you might try my techniques using your material. Follow all my tips on clear material, but using mirrored acrylic, remove the protective paper from both sides, place the acrylic face down and engrave through the mirrored backing. This may create a really nice piece. You'll have to follow my process exactly. Don't skip any steps. Engraving clear is tricky but I've been successful. Good luck and let me know if you try to engrave the mirrored acrylic from the back. I'd love to know how that turns out.
What we’re the settings you used? Speed / Power
When I have no idea what settings to use on a product, this is where I start. They don't work perfectly every time, but it's a great place to start. www.xtool.com/pages/material-settings
I think this particular cut was with 3mm/s and 100% power.
Hi , will it cut white ( milk ) acrylic ?
I have only worked with black acrylic myself. I have no firsthand knowledge on any other colors. Sorry.
How much was a piece of acrylic?
This is what I bought.
Black Acrylic Sheet, Plexiglass Sheets 1/8 inch Thick - 14" x 14" Inches with Protective Paper, Cast Acrylic Panel, Black Plexiglass Board, Acrylic Glass Sheet (1/8", 3-Pack) a.co/d/3VVGYqr
Does this laser can cut clear acrylic?
No. To my knowledge, no diode laser can cut clear acrylic. I have no comprehension of the science behind it, but it has to do with the frequency of a blue diode. The blue laser passes straight through clear material with little or no effect. Initially, I thought it was about the limited power of a 10W laser. But that's not it. It's all about the frequencies.
what (cut) settings you use?
To start I use the settings xTool recommends on their material settings page. Here is the link. www.xtool.com/pages/material-settings
But ultimately, I perform test burns and cut tests on all materials to determine the best settings for my laser. My laser I believe to have been defective from day one. I have had to replace the module after only five months. I had built up a rather large library of test libraries of my own using my laser. I've unfortunately discovered they are no longer relevant to the new module. It produces entirely different results compared to the first module. So, the only way to learn what works best for your module is to test, test, and test some more. Tests are boring. But that's how you learn you lasers capabilities. But I do attempt the xTool recommended settings on an initial cut or engrave. If it's unsuccessful, I start my tests. Good luck with your laser adventures. Thanks for watching.
Hey Hobo, I am not trying to tell you how to suck eggs because you are out there doing stuff and I am only watching; so my respects to you. I might have cut a life-size practice part on a piece of scrap wood first to validate everything before using a 20 dollar piece of plastic. Right now wood is a little cheaper than acrylic, (right now anyhow) so if you have the time it may be worth the effort to do a prototype first. Anyhow, good luck with your business and I hope you do well.
After this experience, I've started using the Prime boxes to cut a trial piece. Thanks for watching. Like using the boxes, in my shop nothing goes to waste. I was able to use the first piece to make lots of earrings. I've only been doing this since Father's Day this year. Documenting my experience, the good, the bad and the ugly. Please subscribe and feel free to offer any helpful constructive criticism on any video I post.
You guys always have to highlight the most important part what are your settings
What was the cut time?
Best I can recall it was around 1 hour 20 minutes.
Your camera work is dizzying.
Thank you for acknowledging this video made your world spin. This was in my early days of TH-cam, and I was trying to use the phone for everything. But just knowing that these old videos are still capable of making the world spin for folks like yourself. If you get too dizzy, might I suggest you sit. I could suggest where if you'd like.