My dude you are mana from heaven. You actually go through each issue and say the solution. So I currently have this in a commission backlog, my commissionee is like get six dozen kill teams and paint them and all the terrain and I heard it had issues. My job is literally to make it so he doesn't have problems so I looked at maganztizing everything... but this lays it out the easiest and simplest I have seen of anyone. The core terrain seems the same through despite it being much more recent. So all of this is still relevant today. Anyway what I am trying to do is say thanks
no worries my friend, glad it helped. i dont mind doing all the hard work, so the community doesnt have to! its a lot of prep work, to fix GW's poor design, but once you clean everything up, its an amazing set! cheers
The effects of cad cam design on computer which gives such a perfect fit that it is not really practical in real life. Great heads up though and easy to fix as you show so well here.....good job!
Thanks for the video - what I found was a rotary helped speed things up... but the first couple walls I did I probably took a little too much off and it fits a little loose. Not a big deal once everything is assembled on the table though. What I found is just scuffing a bit with the rotary and then finishing with a file worked well - I recommend people try one or two and see what they are comfortable with. One more tip for anyone reading: I like to add some sticky tac or something equivalent inside the terrain for the parts that get completely sealed off (like the pillar that goes onto the middle of the larger walls, or some of the scatter terrain). Just adds a bit of extra heft for not a lot of effort - - for these close combat sort of games I think it's nice to have the terrain a little heavier and maybe less likely to get knocked around by accident as you are moving things.
This set arrived over the weekend and I am looking forward to getting started on it later this week. Really appreciate this demonstration before I have even begun. Time to get me a nice sized file. Thank you, really informative video!!
The first issue you highlight was I think removed during my regular cleanup. I did find the pillar slots tight but I solved that by running a small fine square profile file in the column channels
I think I got lucky with my box. All the parts fit together tightly but not in a way that makes it hard to put them together or pull them apart. When its together it is rock solid, there is no wiggle in the walls and it creates perfect square rooms.
that is awesome, glad to hear! did you paint your set, did you mask off the connection points, from paint? cheers, it would be great if there was a second running, without the issues!
ya the terrain is really nice. there is almost no assembly, but the prep work takes a while. its worth it though, being able to assemble and disassemble easily is crucial to this kit!
Should be noted: when I was going through the sanding step with a hard file it is easy to see that the tab surfaces are not flat (not sure you would see this with a soft sanding stick/ sponge). Give after some filing there was still some sections that the file had not touched. I assume this is due to the the thicker plastics cooling at differtly rates resulting in the non flat surface, thus poor tolerances and a too tight a fit. (But still just an assumption, as I'm not privy to there manufacturering practice/ facilities) In any case the amount of work that has to go into making the product usable as intended is ridiculous, especially for something that costs $200.
thanks for sharing. it is very surprising it made it all the way to production, fitting how it does. GW knows its getting painted. cant believe they never actually tried a prototype... incompetent!
that would work if the fit you already have is good... that is obviously not the case, as you can see how much effort goes into pushing them in correctly. its a good idea, but pointless if you dont already have the perfect fit... have to sand until it fits nicely... that is the top priority.. then you can decide to sand a little more if you want to paint over it all, or a little less if you want to also mask the joints...
WH Man! Do you know if the newly released Gallowdark terrain set has these same issues as the “Into the Dark” set? If possible, can you do a comparison to see?
yes i have purchased all of the kill team sets. the same moulds were used for all of the duplicated terrain. so you will need to do the same prep work shown, to achieve these results, regardless of which set of terrain you purchase.
Awesome video, thank you so much! I was just getting around to assembling and preparing my set! Do you have a link to those files you used so I can order some? Thanks for the content!
i went with the 180/240 Emery Boards (Nail file). you can get a bundle of like 10-25 from amazon or china, for around $5, they last quite a while, and you can throw away when done. cheers
I wouldn't say design flaw per se. It's the limitations of a two piece mould. The only way they could remove the mould lines on the parts (where they are) is to do multi-part moulds, or "Slide Moulds" as it is known in the plastic model industry, would cost more. In GW dollars, I don't even think about how much that would cost. For GW, at least add $50-$75 per kit. Regular model cleaning mould lines and remove sprue gate remnants. Cool
lol i'm guessing you dont actually have the set... its clearly a design flaw. the terrain is intended to be painted, it already barely fits together... its not an issue of mold lines... the mold lines are just something you need to clean up... the issue is the design is not accounting for the paint, that makes the connecting points no longer function. if its intended to be painted, but the paint interferes with the function, thats a design flaw if i've ever seen one...
@@WarHammerMan okay I get it. Yeah the tolerances are way too high. In the manufacturing business they call it "slip". Not enough slop in the design. This should have been sorted out in the initial production so the tooling can be adjusted. Most unfortunate
@@WarHammerMan The high friction fit is probably intentional, as modular kits like this will become looser over time as you put them together and take them apart. It's something you run into if you use Mantic's modular terrain a lot as well. Though I think the ridges are overkill. IMO sanding joints and mold lines on thick plastic terrain like this is just something you've got to expect. Sector Imperialis needed the same level of pre-assembly cleanup, especially the floor plates. As long as it's not warped plastic it's not a big deal - if pieces this thick get warped it's a nightmare. And it's probably a good idea to just mask off the connections and leave them in grey plastic.
no i dont. i think people are trying far to hard, to add magnets to this set, when there are none necessary. the tops of the pillars stay on perfectly well. this set is designed well, it just needs to be tweaked. (like i show in the video).
ya without this issue, there would be little to no cleanup or assembly. with this issue, the prep more than makes up for the benefits of the modular terrain. i've heard a few people claim to not have this issue... more likely they just dont understand, most people dont want to have to muscle their little toys together every time they play
Oh yeah, I meant the cardboard scenery like a dm screen around the board! 😅 Thanks for the tips btw, also bought the Into the Dark set, still have to build it.
oh sorry, lol. its the old kill team game board, from rogue trader! on side is a munistorum temple, the other is a space ship (thats the side i have showing).
ya i always clip the end off the push fit pegs. leave some room for clearance. makes a huge difference. i know a lot of people cut the pegs off completely. cheers
lol it was designed to be modular, it was not designed to be painted... which makes no sense. the problem is it was designed on computers, and the prototype was clearly not tested properly (painted)
My dude you are mana from heaven. You actually go through each issue and say the solution. So I currently have this in a commission backlog, my commissionee is like get six dozen kill teams and paint them and all the terrain and I heard it had issues. My job is literally to make it so he doesn't have problems so I looked at maganztizing everything... but this lays it out the easiest and simplest I have seen of anyone. The core terrain seems the same through despite it being much more recent. So all of this is still relevant today.
Anyway what I am trying to do is say thanks
no worries my friend, glad it helped. i dont mind doing all the hard work, so the community doesnt have to! its a lot of prep work, to fix GW's poor design, but once you clean everything up, its an amazing set! cheers
Appreciate you figuring this out before I got started on my set. It would have been a pain to have to sand things down after painting. Thanks boss.
of course my friend, glad to help! once you know what you need to focus on, its a relatively easy fix! cheers
The effects of cad cam design on computer which gives such a perfect fit that it is not really practical in real life. Great heads up though and easy to fix as you show so well here.....good job!
Really all their stuff is done on a computer. Whoever did this one did not allow for tolerances of the plastic
lol ya when nerds forget they are designing stuff for the real world... thats what you get haha
Thanks for the video - what I found was a rotary helped speed things up... but the first couple walls I did I probably took a little too much off and it fits a little loose. Not a big deal once everything is assembled on the table though. What I found is just scuffing a bit with the rotary and then finishing with a file worked well - I recommend people try one or two and see what they are comfortable with.
One more tip for anyone reading: I like to add some sticky tac or something equivalent inside the terrain for the parts that get completely sealed off (like the pillar that goes onto the middle of the larger walls, or some of the scatter terrain). Just adds a bit of extra heft for not a lot of effort - - for these close combat sort of games I think it's nice to have the terrain a little heavier and maybe less likely to get knocked around by accident as you are moving things.
cheers my friend, thanks for sharing!
I’m about to paint all these. I’m really glad TH-cam suggested this. I’ll clean my slots and stuff up before I paint them. Good video!
awesome glad to hear! its such a. nice set i'm excited to paint, and play on it! cheers
This set arrived over the weekend and I am looking forward to getting started on it later this week. Really appreciate this demonstration before I have even begun. Time to get me a nice sized file. Thank you, really informative video!!
of course my friend, the set is awesome you will love it! especially after some prep work. cheers!
Love this video. Simple and clean. Good job. Thank you!
Best video on the interwebs!
thanks my friend
Thank you very much for the analysis and fix for this terrain.
of course my friend
The first issue you highlight was I think removed during my regular cleanup. I did find the pillar slots tight but I solved that by running a small fine square profile file in the column channels
thanks for sharing. you'd be surprised what percentage of people do not clean up mold lines. its crazy.
For some reason the set I got needed no sanding. The tolerances were perfect. So this could be a problem with some batches, and not all.
nice, anything is possible!
I think I got lucky with my box. All the parts fit together tightly but not in a way that makes it hard to put them together or pull them apart. When its together it is rock solid, there is no wiggle in the walls and it creates perfect square rooms.
that is awesome, glad to hear! did you paint your set, did you mask off the connection points, from paint? cheers, it would be great if there was a second running, without the issues!
@@WarHammerMan very carefully masked off all the connection areas and filled the slots in the pillars with bluetack :D
nice glad that worked out for you!
This is an exhausting flaw… my hands are raw from snding
in the grim darkness of the future, there is only... sanding. lol
Just got the terrain the other day on Ebay for under 90$ or so.
This will be good.
ya the terrain is really nice. there is almost no assembly, but the prep work takes a while. its worth it though, being able to assemble and disassemble easily is crucial to this kit!
I had to do the same thing to mine. I masked off the ends of the walls and put the caps on when I spray primed it as well.
according to GW, it was designed this way intentionally... sure GW, great plan, to require power tools, and painters tape, to build your kits...
Awesome video mate.
thank you my friend, glad you enjoyed it
Should be noted: when I was going through the sanding step with a hard file it is easy to see that the tab surfaces are not flat (not sure you would see this with a soft sanding stick/ sponge). Give after some filing there was still some sections that the file had not touched. I assume this is due to the the thicker plastics cooling at differtly rates resulting in the non flat surface, thus poor tolerances and a too tight a fit. (But still just an assumption, as I'm not privy to there manufacturering practice/ facilities)
In any case the amount of work that has to go into making the product usable as intended is ridiculous, especially for something that costs $200.
thanks for sharing. it is very surprising it made it all the way to production, fitting how it does. GW knows its getting painted. cant believe they never actually tried a prototype... incompetent!
Put tape on the edges before painting. Then take off after resolves a lot of issues .
that would work if the fit you already have is good... that is obviously not the case, as you can see how much effort goes into pushing them in correctly. its a good idea, but pointless if you dont already have the perfect fit... have to sand until it fits nicely... that is the top priority.. then you can decide to sand a little more if you want to paint over it all, or a little less if you want to also mask the joints...
Cheers, just got a set.
awesome. its a great box. do the prep work, and you will get to enjoy the set much more in the long run. very happy with mine!
Getting a degree in structural engineering just to put together my toys.
lol, its worth it, this terrain is pretty awesome!
Required Watching in leu of prep work for the new sets.
i've heard some people say their sets were fine, so def do a test fit, and make up your mind, about what is best for you!
Thanks for the info Bro!
of course my friend
WH Man! Do you know if the newly released Gallowdark terrain set has these same issues as the “Into the Dark” set? If possible, can you do a comparison to see?
yes i have purchased all of the kill team sets. the same moulds were used for all of the duplicated terrain. so you will need to do the same prep work shown, to achieve these results, regardless of which set of terrain you purchase.
@ - Dang! Ok thanks man.
Thanks for sharing. I am doing the same.
of course my friend
Awesome video, thank you so much! I was just getting around to assembling and preparing my set! Do you have a link to those files you used so I can order some? Thanks for the content!
i went with the 180/240 Emery Boards (Nail file). you can get a bundle of like 10-25 from amazon or china, for around $5, they last quite a while, and you can throw away when done. cheers
@@WarHammerMan thank you!!
you got it!
I wouldn't say design flaw per se. It's the limitations of a two piece mould. The only way they could remove the mould lines on the parts (where they are) is to do multi-part moulds, or "Slide Moulds" as it is known in the plastic model industry, would cost more. In GW dollars, I don't even think about how much that would cost. For GW, at least add $50-$75 per kit. Regular model cleaning mould lines and remove sprue gate remnants. Cool
lol i'm guessing you dont actually have the set... its clearly a design flaw. the terrain is intended to be painted, it already barely fits together... its not an issue of mold lines... the mold lines are just something you need to clean up... the issue is the design is not accounting for the paint, that makes the connecting points no longer function. if its intended to be painted, but the paint interferes with the function, thats a design flaw if i've ever seen one...
@@WarHammerMan okay I get it. Yeah the tolerances are way too high. In the manufacturing business they call it "slip". Not enough slop in the design. This should have been sorted out in the initial production so the tooling can be adjusted. Most unfortunate
@@WarHammerMan The high friction fit is probably intentional, as modular kits like this will become looser over time as you put them together and take them apart. It's something you run into if you use Mantic's modular terrain a lot as well. Though I think the ridges are overkill.
IMO sanding joints and mold lines on thick plastic terrain like this is just something you've got to expect. Sector Imperialis needed the same level of pre-assembly cleanup, especially the floor plates. As long as it's not warped plastic it's not a big deal - if pieces this thick get warped it's a nightmare.
And it's probably a good idea to just mask off the connections and leave them in grey plastic.
i couldnt disagree more, with basically everything you said lol. cheers
Do you think it would be worthwhile to magnetize the pillar tops?
no i dont. i think people are trying far to hard, to add magnets to this set, when there are none necessary. the tops of the pillars stay on perfectly well. this set is designed well, it just needs to be tweaked. (like i show in the video).
I dont know if we can talk about a flaw when we get such a good product
we can always talk about a flaw, no matter what, its called freedom of speech, its great!
The amount of work vs the kit price is not worth it to me. I'll wait for the next sets to see if they fix this lol.
ya without this issue, there would be little to no cleanup or assembly. with this issue, the prep more than makes up for the benefits of the modular terrain. i've heard a few people claim to not have this issue... more likely they just dont understand, most people dont want to have to muscle their little toys together every time they play
What are those walls? Looks good.
it is the new terrain from the kill team into the dark set.
Oh yeah, I meant the cardboard scenery like a dm screen around the board! 😅 Thanks for the tips btw, also bought the Into the Dark set, still have to build it.
oh sorry, lol. its the old kill team game board, from rogue trader! on side is a munistorum temple, the other is a space ship (thats the side i have showing).
All the new push fit stuff has similar issues.
ya i always clip the end off the push fit pegs. leave some room for clearance. makes a huge difference. i know a lot of people cut the pegs off completely. cheers
looks like it needs to be machined with a Dremel.
it worked really well with the file, takes some time, but well worth it.
What grit of sand paper so I don't fuck this up lol
the little emery boards/nail files i used are 180 on sone side and 240 on the other (180/240)
@@WarHammerMan God damn saint
glad to help my friend!
Imagine if forge world had made it😂
lol it would be all warped, pieces missing, and show up 3 months after you order it. haha
It’s pretty obvious it wasn’t designed to be reconfigurable. James workshop needs his Lamborghini so go buy more box sets already!
lol it was designed to be modular, it was not designed to be painted... which makes no sense. the problem is it was designed on computers, and the prototype was clearly not tested properly (painted)