New subscriber, thank you as you mentioned in one of your videos about anxiety, well brother you took care of mine and re instilled the confidence needed after not doing this stuff in many years. Good luck and thanks!
Should mention for people to check with a pro before they cut studs to verify if the wall is load bearing. Could need a header in there!! Really great build and excellent explanation! Very good work man. New subscriber 😎
I'd love for you to show how you handle things like the wires in the wall that were in the way of your framing... and in other videos, the actual connection of the pipes. I have a shower where I need to connect the pipes from the top, so I'd love to see how you do the details of that. Those are the money shots for me. Thanks man. Love your videos.
On a tileredi base? Concerning wires, that depends on the situation where there can be a bunch of variables involved. Here's the video on the above the plywood install, thanks for the kind words! th-cam.com/video/B652ExFmc7A/w-d-xo.html
I love the Jersey accent..or maybe New york? I'm not familiar with the straight flex but I get what you're doing. Can you do the same thing with the cement tape + mortar?
Nice video and you really show the details of how exactly it is done. I wish you have given some details on determining the height of the niche so it aligns with the tile grout line which, in my opinion gives a more eye pleasing effect.
@@TodayIWorkOn Since I am in the process of trying to position the niche in my bathroom can you share the trick here. My thought so far is to tile the wall adjacent to the niche wall and using my laser I can follow the grout line to position the niche where it needs to be. But...... it has to be a better way than mine. Thanks
Woah! You're "Ta da!" @ 11:20 skipped a vital step: what if there are screws going into that 2x4 holding up the backside sheet rock, which you'd assured us we wouldn't damage? Also, why dont you just set the depth of your skil-saw to the depth of the 2x4 rather than fool with the orbital saw?
There’s usually screws or nails, correct. Over time you learn how to negotiate pulling the 2x4 out so you do not damage the joint compound on the other side. Remember, you are pulling the nail or screw from the other side, not pushing. A slight wiggle usually does the trick. Worst case, you patch a screw hole. This is remodeling, if you look up the word remodel - noun - An instance of a modification or a redecorating, we are messing with what’s existing. Small damage can 100% happen. Nail pops and some drywall damage is always possible during a remodel. Lastly, standard 7 1/4” circular saw does not have the depth to cut through a 3.5 inch piece of wood, hence the vibrating saw. If you want a perfect situation, build a new home. 😬 I hope this answered your questions.
I don’t want to be that guy but you should put the sides in first incase your membrane fails the water will still shed with the pitch of the niche other than that good job 👍
Seriously .. listen folks let’s not cause drama we don need on any job anytime period. To cut out studs at niche location , set the depth of skill saw at 3 1/2” depth of total cut k , go ahead make the x4 cuts level . U will not cause any damage to drywall sheet rock ok. The width of all framing 2x4 is 3 1/2” x 1 1/2” thick …. If using a wildly UN stable vibration saw against drywall cause u were to scared to cut full depth , u will only create greater chances of damaging the drywall u so spoke cautiously of yeahhh. Lol so follow the ever so wise tip. Keep it simple stupid . Don’t go creating chaos when u can cruise mellow and looking as if ur actually experienced . Ur gonna want pre marking all layout at plumb and square mark lines to cut , always stick to same rules on saw blade to lower edge of the leading edge lines this way as u hold a heavy worm drive or any saw , u will be allowing for the lesser of two evils. The bottom edge gets saw blade but while your eye follows the top edge of mark also the easier of both evils. So use as law for your functions to always stick to same method. The more level and square the cut the most precision will come out in the finish showing best results from patience and experienced skills. 70% of finish is in the prep , measure twice and cut once , a tape don’t steal and a level don’t lie , damn we’re good , time to go to the bank bud. Blessings
I didn't see you say anything about a slop from front to back. I know it's a very short distance, but shouldn't you have a slight slope so that water doesn't pool up? Thanks.
For 3.5" I don't technically slope the waterproofing but I do slope the tiles about 1/8". The whole area is covered in mortar and grout so there's no real place for the water to go. The biggest issue is if you slope the substrate 1/16" then you have to slope the tile another 1/8, those numbers start adding up and you will have a small hill on your hands.
Love the videos! What side of the cement board goes against the studs? Smooth of rough? I have installed a redi tile base and I'm ready for the cement board to go on. How do I know if I will be using mortar or mastic when installing the tile?
Anything in a wet environment should be modified thinset. That’s rough side. You can cheat a little like in the back of a niche with mastic if you’re in a pinch. That’s the smooth side. Anything dry is mastic. Anything wet is thinset. I have seen mastic hold up just fine over the years in a wet environment , but it’s not proper practice.
@@TodayIWorkOn thanks for the reply, is modified thinset also good to use on the redi tile shower base? the yellow one. I have seen you use different stuff but cant remember which video its in now!!! lol I am limited to what i can purchase in my small town but if i have to order it, than so be it!
Yes I do since it's cheap and is water proof when you bed into the thin set. After that, you redguard or hydroban and you have a very waterproof shower!
Which type and thickness of Strait-Flex do you use? Do I need to get the Tile-Tape or will the regular corner bead stuff work since it's waterproofed anyway?
I’ve never sloped a bottom stud because how can I make that perfect cut on an existing wall? Kinda hard. We are talking 1/8” of a pitch over 3”. In my mind that’s a waste of time. There’s engineering and science on pitch and water movement that says we need to pitch at least 1/8” per foot to move water. The 1/8” pitch at 3” equals a 1/2” pitch over 1 foot. That’s excessive. You can even go 1/16” at 3” and still get water movement off of the sill. In summary, add a little more mortar to the rear of your tile and pitch that baby down. It’s way easier and you have more control over how much you want it pitched.
Any suggestions for doing a niche like that against a concrete (below grade) wall? Can I leave out the concrete board in the back of the niche and just tape and mortar the sides directly to the concrete wall?
Yep, it’s a 2x4 furred out wall against a concrete wall in the basement. The niche is framed within the furred wall. I’ve got it all sheeted with durock and I’m mesh taping and thinsetting right now
Non bearing load does not require a king and jack stud install. Single floor home with no load bearing walls due to truss framing being held by exterior walls. If it was a bearing wall, yes, 100% add a header. This is actually a great comment and it's actually something I'm going to add in my upcoming video about a new niche I'm doing.
@@TodayIWorkOn great...looking fwd to that video and thanks for the explanation. Building code varies so much around the country which makes it difficult to understand which techniques to apply!
I sure do! It’s super thin. It’s super strong. It’s super waterproof!! It just made sense to me and it’s way cheaper and easier to use than kerdi tape.
@@TodayIWorkOn but where did you slope it? On the wood studs? With the cement board (looks flat there)? Or with the tile at the end by adding more mortar in the back? I'm doing one this week and don't really see people explaining which is better.... I saw another guy slope the wood stud, but i already framed it, I'm hoping it's ok to do with the cement board or tile...?
@@cavy95 that's what I'm thinking, because if there's a leak, you need to slope the cement board as well, or it just pools under the tile, if the mortar ever becomes compromised... Finally getting to the shower now 😅
I've used the same oscillator tool he used at the end of the 2x4 cut with a metal cutting blade to shear off any sheetrock screws, fits right in between back of stud and sheetrock. Go to the other side, look for screw head sticking out slightly, you can always kinda see them, measure distance and then go back and cut it off, nomess with other side of wall
Great job thanks for sharing. But did you check with your wife about the size of the niche. I mean, have you seen how many bottles of stuff they use in the shower. Lol.
Always shower bottle tested before install! This was for a client. In my new construction I’m going to go over what the best method is for shower bottles.
Custom usually is more work. Some clients like a specific size niche and the tile Redi niche does not work for those clients like my most recent niche video. Yes, the tile Redi niche is 100% easier!
Why on earth would you put red guard over the entire surface of concrete board. It’s concrete can you not spray the whole thing down with the hose and it won’t be ruined it’ll dissipate evaporate No harm no foul when water gets through the grout and hits the concrete board. It’ll soak in dissipate evaporate and be gone by coating it with a membrane. It’s gonna slide down the membrane to wherever Iza paddling and accumulating causing problems. It’s cement board no need for that membrane waste of money and time. you want to seal the joint lines no problem but to do the whole thing waste of time Not to mention money.
I am so impressed that you actually respond to my question your responses are faster than my online instructors….crazy😂
New subscriber, thank you as you mentioned in one of your videos about anxiety, well brother you took care of mine and re instilled the confidence needed after not doing this stuff in many years. Good luck and thanks!
Should mention for people to check with a pro before they cut studs to verify if the wall is load bearing. Could need a header in there!! Really great build and excellent explanation! Very good work man. New subscriber 😎
Totally agree. Like I mentioned in a previous comment, I'll be mentioning this in my upcoming niche video. Thanks! I really appreciate the follow.
I'd love for you to show how you handle things like the wires in the wall that were in the way of your framing... and in other videos, the actual connection of the pipes. I have a shower where I need to connect the pipes from the top, so I'd love to see how you do the details of that. Those are the money shots for me. Thanks man. Love your videos.
On a tileredi base? Concerning wires, that depends on the situation where there can be a bunch of variables involved. Here's the video on the above the plywood install, thanks for the kind words!
th-cam.com/video/B652ExFmc7A/w-d-xo.html
I am a novice renovator who is completely redoing bathroom from studs, sub floor up. You are my go to man now! THANK YOU!
I love ur video simple explain amazing and everyone give a long explanation with missing steps yrs is so simple ❤️❤️ doing my own shower thanks
I love the Jersey accent..or maybe New york?
I'm not familiar with the straight flex but I get what you're doing. Can you do the same thing with the cement tape + mortar?
Nice video and you really show the details of how exactly it is done. I wish you have given some details on determining the height of the niche so it aligns with the tile grout line which, in my opinion gives a more eye pleasing effect.
I plan on doing a video about a trick I have getting the perfect height of a niche or shelf or etc...
@@TodayIWorkOn Since I am in the process of trying to position the niche in my bathroom can you share the trick here. My thought so far is to tile the wall adjacent to the niche wall and using my laser I can follow the grout line to position the niche where it needs to be. But...... it has to be a better way than mine. Thanks
Starting doing a full second bathroom and this was incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Looks like a good job brother
Everything is good except for siliconing it to the drywall. Should just redguard the drywall or stick a membrane with thinset
Just use go board by Johnson manville then you don’t have so much labor waterproofing
Sounds like a great product.
Woah! You're "Ta da!" @ 11:20 skipped a vital step: what if there are screws going into that 2x4 holding up the backside sheet rock, which you'd assured us we wouldn't damage?
Also, why dont you just set the depth of your skil-saw to the depth of the 2x4 rather than fool with the orbital saw?
There’s usually screws or nails, correct. Over time you learn how to negotiate pulling the 2x4 out so you do not damage the joint compound on the other side. Remember, you are pulling the nail or screw from the other side, not pushing. A slight wiggle usually does the trick. Worst case, you patch a screw hole. This is remodeling, if you look up the word remodel - noun - An instance of a modification or a redecorating, we are messing with what’s existing. Small damage can 100% happen. Nail pops and some drywall damage is always possible during a remodel.
Lastly, standard 7 1/4” circular saw does not have the depth to cut through a 3.5 inch piece of wood, hence the vibrating saw.
If you want a perfect situation, build a new home. 😬
I hope this answered your questions.
I don’t want to be that guy but you should put the sides in first incase your membrane fails the water will still shed with the pitch of the niche other than that good job 👍
i'm a rookie, but intuitively this makes sense and I'm glad I read it before I got to work
What do you do if the wall is not drywall, but plaster and lath?
Got to cut all the nails that attach the lath to that stud.
Wall for the back of the niche?
Looks easy now thanks for the great video.
Seriously .. listen folks let’s not cause drama we don need on any job anytime period. To cut out studs at niche location , set the depth of skill saw at 3 1/2” depth of total cut k , go ahead make the x4 cuts level . U will not cause any damage to drywall sheet rock ok. The width of all framing 2x4 is 3 1/2” x 1 1/2” thick …. If using a wildly UN stable vibration saw against drywall cause u were to scared to cut full depth , u will only create greater chances of damaging the drywall u so spoke cautiously of yeahhh. Lol so follow the ever so wise tip. Keep it simple stupid . Don’t go creating chaos when u can cruise mellow and looking as if ur actually experienced . Ur gonna want pre marking all layout at plumb and square mark lines to cut , always stick to same rules on saw blade to lower edge of the leading edge lines this way as u hold a heavy worm drive or any saw , u will be allowing for the lesser of two evils. The bottom edge gets saw blade but while your eye follows the top edge of mark also the easier of both evils. So use as law for your functions to always stick to same method. The more level and square the cut the most precision will come out in the finish showing best results from patience and experienced skills. 70% of finish is in the prep , measure twice and cut once , a tape don’t steal and a level don’t lie , damn we’re good , time to go to the bank bud. Blessings
I read 1/2 of this and said, this guy follows videos very well! 🤣
I didn't see you say anything about a slop from front to back. I know it's a very short distance, but shouldn't you have a slight slope so that water doesn't pool up? Thanks.
For 3.5" I don't technically slope the waterproofing but I do slope the tiles about 1/8". The whole area is covered in mortar and grout so there's no real place for the water to go. The biggest issue is if you slope the substrate 1/16" then you have to slope the tile another 1/8, those numbers start adding up and you will have a small hill on your hands.
Love the videos! What side of the cement board goes against the studs? Smooth of rough? I have installed a redi tile base and I'm ready for the cement board to go on. How do I know if I will be using mortar or mastic when installing the tile?
Anything in a wet environment should be modified thinset. That’s rough side. You can cheat a little like in the back of a niche with mastic if you’re in a pinch. That’s the smooth side. Anything dry is mastic. Anything wet is thinset. I have seen mastic hold up just fine over the years in a wet environment , but it’s not proper practice.
Thank you for your kinds words. 😬
@@TodayIWorkOn thanks for the reply, is modified thinset also good to use on the redi tile shower base? the yellow one. I have seen you use different stuff but cant remember which video its in now!!! lol I am limited to what i can purchase in my small town but if i have to order it, than so be it!
If Iam ok with the dimensions between the studs could I just insert 2-2x4 in between the studs to make niche instead of cutting studs out????
Yes. It will be tiny though. Don’t be scared to cut out the studs if the wall is not load bearing. You got this!!
Good work, my boy.
did you use the straight flex on the corners of the shower and the cement board joints?
Yes I do since it's cheap and is water proof when you bed into the thin set. After that, you redguard or hydroban and you have a very waterproof shower!
Can I use thin-set over strait flex instead of mortar?
A modified thin set, yup, that's what I'm using. Thinest modified mortar.
Could the niche not have been the full distance? Like is there a limit on how wide it can be?
It can be any size you like.
Which type and thickness of Strait-Flex do you use? Do I need to get the Tile-Tape or will the regular corner bead stuff work since it's waterproofed anyway?
I've tried both original and medium and they work fine. They are both plastic(waterproof) so they work just fine.
I used a Tile Redi Niche when I did my daughters bath. Super easy and leak proof!
Awesome video man you helped me alot
You don’t slope the bottom stud? I’ve seen some videos that it works better.
I’ve never sloped a bottom stud because how can I make that perfect cut on an existing wall? Kinda hard. We are talking 1/8” of a pitch over 3”. In my mind that’s a waste of time. There’s engineering and science on pitch and water movement that says we need to pitch at least 1/8” per foot to move water. The 1/8” pitch at 3” equals a 1/2” pitch over 1 foot. That’s excessive. You can even go 1/16” at 3” and still get water movement off of the sill.
In summary, add a little more mortar to the rear of your tile and pitch that baby down. It’s way easier and you have more control over how much you want it pitched.
@@TodayIWorkOn Thx for the tips. Just seen different videos with multiple opinions on it.
I'd like to see how you do a shower curb.
I’m glad you asked!
th-cam.com/play/PL3SQwu9g6nXThFJ7-aRCEWbqysCtSSVOl.html&si=2dsB__AM3_DshVdz
8:20 waterproofing shower niche
Any suggestions for doing a niche like that against a concrete (below grade) wall? Can I leave out the concrete board in the back of the niche and just tape and mortar the sides directly to the concrete wall?
Is it a 2x4 wall?
Yep, it’s a 2x4 furred out wall against a concrete wall in the basement. The niche is framed within the furred wall. I’ve got it all sheeted with durock and I’m mesh taping and thinsetting right now
@@KW-gi4nl it should work just fine. Good luck with the project!
so use composite 2 3/8ths" flexible strait-flex ? for the corners & edges? of the niche?
Yes. You can grab it in the joint compound area in HD.
What do you think about Hardie backerboard with hydro defense? I'm trying to skip the Red Guard step....
I'm sure it will work just fine if you install it all per its directions.
What about king and jack studs with a header after cutting out that niche?
Non bearing load does not require a king and jack stud install. Single floor home with no load bearing walls due to truss framing being held by exterior walls. If it was a bearing wall, yes, 100% add a header. This is actually a great comment and it's actually something I'm going to add in my upcoming video about a new niche I'm doing.
@@TodayIWorkOn great...looking fwd to that video and thanks for the explanation. Building code varies so much around the country which makes it difficult to understand which techniques to apply!
Excellent video. Can you make a video how to install a niche in finished bathroom? Thanks
What if you don’t have strait flex for the edges? Can I use a mesh and just mud over to make a clean edge
I guess mesh would work if you really are on point with the mortar. The strait flex makes me feel better with all of the corners.
Did you also use the "straight-flex original" for the shower wall corners?
I sure do! It’s super thin. It’s super strong. It’s super waterproof!! It just made sense to me and it’s way cheaper and easier to use than kerdi tape.
@TodayIWorkOn Great thanks, I appreciate the reply. Great video!
Last question, what did you use for butt joints?
Question can you use regular drywall tape for the shower niche
That’s a very good question. I’m not sure. If it’s covered in a waterproofing membrane…. maybe. I would have to test it.
can't you just use the same mesh tape that you used for the corners for the niche? Thanks
You can but if the mesh fails and cracks, there's no protection there like the straight flex.
If you put that 1/2 inch durarock back you’ll lose depth on you nich
Mean that guy still rockie
Cuán es el nobre de la pintura que pones antes de el azulejo
Red Guard
You didnt slope the bottom.... does it not need to be?
It’s sloped around 1/8” of an inch. Always slope your shelf.
@@TodayIWorkOn but where did you slope it? On the wood studs? With the cement board (looks flat there)? Or with the tile at the end by adding more mortar in the back? I'm doing one this week and don't really see people explaining which is better.... I saw another guy slope the wood stud, but i already framed it, I'm hoping it's ok to do with the cement board or tile...?
@@EJfromNYCput some shims under the goboard to slope it towards the shower.
@@cavy95 that's what I'm thinking, because if there's a leak, you need to slope the cement board as well, or it just pools under the tile, if the mortar ever becomes compromised... Finally getting to the shower now 😅
Remember "don't be cheap"😅
Don’t you want to use a fiber mesh tape instead
Wrong layout your tile so you know all your cuts and they make foam ones that are water proof
Thank you for your videos 👍👍 awesome
You didn’t explain how you removed the 2x4 without damaging the the other side of the Sheetrock from the bedroom wall.
60's house, the stud actually just fell out and I actually laughed when it happened, lol.
I've used the same oscillator tool he used at the end of the 2x4 cut with a metal cutting blade to shear off any sheetrock screws, fits right in between back of stud and sheetrock. Go to the other side, look for screw head sticking out slightly, you can always kinda see them, measure distance and then go back and cut it off, nomess with other side of wall
Great job thanks for sharing. But did you check with your wife about the size of the niche. I mean, have you seen how many bottles of stuff they use in the shower. Lol.
Always shower bottle tested before install! This was for a client. In my new construction I’m going to go over what the best method is for shower bottles.
I see, I’m about to remove master bedroom tub and install a shower. I Will need a much wider niche or maybe even two. Btw I had to sub, thanks
@@stevelopez372 th-cam.com/video/PaZo4pF0ZS8/w-d-xo.html
Water proofing…Red Guard or Hydroban?
Either or. Everyone has their preferred waterproofing. You can’t go wrong with both when applied properly.
Are those snips?
Tin snips, correct.
that's way too much work. Just buy a redi- niche.100% waterproof and 1/10 the install time.
Custom usually is more work. Some clients like a specific size niche and the tile Redi niche does not work for those clients like my most recent niche video. Yes, the tile Redi niche is 100% easier!
I never use that shit prefab niche i customize the way i or client wont
Isn’t it like 250$+ for a foam box?
Cheap and easy are how I like my women 😂
This dude is a hack, cheating and easy for him, expensive for the homeowner later.
In 50 years, probably. I bet the remodel will cost like 70-80K in 2073.
Why on earth would you put red guard over the entire surface of concrete board. It’s concrete can you not spray the whole thing down with the hose and it won’t be ruined it’ll dissipate evaporate No harm no foul when water gets through the grout and hits the concrete board. It’ll soak in dissipate evaporate and be gone by coating it with a membrane. It’s gonna slide down the membrane to wherever Iza paddling and accumulating causing problems. It’s cement board no need for that membrane waste of money and time. you want to seal the joint lines no problem but to do the whole thing waste of time Not to mention money.
(Do not waste your time reading this comment lol)
Is this a serious question? You need to waterproof cement board in the shower.
I hate to buy any house you worked on.
Right better use densheild already waterproof
Cement board is not water proof, it's intend to keep moisture off the wood studs, stay away from tile, son
To much work use mesh tape no thinset redgard 3 time also dansheild better than durock way easyer to work