I dont know if you will ever see this comment. But i want you to know that you have given me so much confidence to do things in my home on my own. Your video's are so detailed and easy to follow, you add tips and always have the best information. Thanks to you I am remodeling my son's tub/shower combo to a walk in shower. So far I have ripped down the drywall to tile up to the ceiling. I have installed cement boards. I have to change the pvc plumbing to make the drain centered but I'm doing it because of you. Next I will follow your video's to complete the whole process. I would love to show you my progress pictures. THank you more than you know Josh!!
Good video, good instruction as always a tip for you the most important personal protection equipment you can wear when cutting concrete board is a mask
@@TheExcellentLaborer I usually don't leave comments, but this one deserves 2 comments. Basically your TH-cam channel gave me the info I was seeking for cause I am rennovating our master bathroom. Thank you very much!
I’ve watch many instructional videos in past but the way you explain everything is so clear and you explain step by step. All your videos are quality and the best diy instructional videos on TH-cam
Love these videos! I am in the process of refurbing my bathroom. Currently installing Durarock above the shower surround. I was not sure what to use for joint compound of sorts for this material. Now I do! Thanks Josh! For all you do and share on these videos!
This is by far the most informative, straight forward construction channel on TH-cam, you deserve way more subscribers. Keep the videos coming, they’re much appreciated
I truly do appreciate that. This comment just made my day! My goal was to make videos to help people and you gave me confirmation of that. Thanks a lot for watching!
Very nicely done and very informative! Recently installed the cement board in my shower, and was very much similar to your method, except that I used an Alkali-Resistant Cement Board Tape instead of the mesh tape you used. Product is: FibaTape Alkali-Resistant 2 in. x 150 ft. Self-Adhesive Cement Board Tape Cheers! Subscribed!
Out of all the videos I have watched with this type of the work. You are the most thorough and detailed. Great video!! After this video, I’m now ready to do my work.
Best videos ever for DIYer bathroom remodeling. 1 question: can i replace parts of the bathroom drywall outside the shower wet area with cement board? I need to replace some sections located at the bottom of the drywalls. I already finished tiling the shower walls and my shower looks fabulous thanks to your coaching.🙏🏼🙏🏼
I learned more useful tips and info in the first 5 minutes of your tutorial than from watching hours of other TH-cam channels. This gives me the confidence to solo install my shower tile. Thank you! Edit to add, a month later: 1) You have to wear a mask if you are using any kind of power tool to cut the backer board. 2) Cut the board outside. 3) Do not allow any living thing to be nearby. That includes pets. 4) Research silica dust and backer board to understand why.
First off, so glad you explained the options of cutting the cement board. Even using hardi backer the same process of all three. I've seen guys not put the nylon tape over the joints and even using a latex silicone in between the joints as they put the boards up. ( What's your thought of the silicone usage?) Some time use should look at the schluter system. Having the ability to go over drywall products it's one advantage. Cost is one aspect but labor cost comparison is what to consider. First time using the schluter system was a bit of a challenge but as you do more, it gets easier. Great job Josh as always and the use of eye and ear protection along with a mask if using a circular saw. Who wants to breathe in that dust. 👍🏻
I feel like silicone would be a fine idea in the joints. Since I use the waterproofing and crack prevention coating I do not worry about it. I would like to use that system on the next shower just to get more familiar with it. Seems like everybody likes it. I would have to study up on it. It was windy outside that day so the dust was not in my face but yes a respirator would’ve been a good idea. Thanks David for watching and commenting as always. You are the man!
Found the video and product information which I saved. Yes, I've used aqua defense. Great product for sure. Always great responses as well from my friends and contractors. Of course we all usually have ideas that work better for each process, but like my Dad always said, "you have to start somewhere". Great man and I miss him even my father-in-law who was in the trades as well. 🙏🏻
Apparently not cause there is no reason to start at the top. Drywallers do that but no reason with the 3x5 cement boards. If it works out bad you could end up with a rip at the bottom and I prefer a whole piece with less seams as high as I can go
Thanks BRT! I noticed you always use the alternative. Which seems like good stuff! If I was a full-time bathroom remodeler I would get more experience with it. Thanks for stopping by!
The Durock installation instructions indicate the board should be shimmed 1/4 inch above the shower or tub flange. They also do not say to use construction adhesive to attach it to the wall. It's an unnecessary step. People say it gives the board more strength. However, your layer of thinset will provide the extra rigidity.
Thank you! I was wondering how important it is for the corner boards to be close? Our installer left a very large gap in the corners and I am wondering if this is going to cause issues later or if the mud fills it in?
Brotha you are the MF'n man for this video! We are at this very point of our bath/shower remodel and I have so much more confidence in getting it completed soon. Thank you for this man new SUB here!
I think you may be the only video I watched where liquid nails was used installing cement backer-boards…I do know that liquids nails will make it very difficult to remove boarding if necessary in the future. Could you explain your use of liquid nails?
Great vid.. when measuring around the bathroom window do you measure to to the very edge of the window frame or a bit beyond .. could you explain how to properly messure
thank you. this will come in handy. I have the same shower pan except mine is 36 x 36. for laying down the 1st row of tile. how do i deal with the rounded edge at the front near the wall on both the right and left sides? Do I have trim my tile with a grinder?
How deep in the pan should the cement board be? My tile-redi pan does not have a lip around the perimeter....should the cement board go to the floor? Maybe leave a 1/4-5/16" gap at the floor above the tile? Thanks!
I watch you and I do agree with everything you said about hanging durock in your shower but my question is can I use the same durock that you used in your shower as a siding on the outside walls ?
When you mud a pan do you put backer board on before the pan to about 1/2 inch above the OSB floor? or float it slightly above thel mud pan after its done? the mud floor is on roof paper and chicken wire (no Oatey pvc liner)
Hi Josh, your videos are incredibly helpful. I am replacing tile in our guest bath. It’s is a standard bath tub/shower. I have 2 questions for you. I have installed the cement board and used the thin set to patch seams and screws. I feel like the thin set needs to be sanded, so how smooth or rigid can the surface be without causing a problem? Also, the cement board is about 1/8” to 1/4” shallow at the seam with the drywall where the bullnose tile will be installed. Is this a problem and how do you fix?
Unless the thinset is protruding up over an 1/8 inch I would not worry about trying to sand down where you patch the screwholes because when you install the tile thinset is thicker than then we’ll cover it up. I would fill in the area you were talking about that is shallow with sunset before installing your bullnose. I hope that helps!
Thank you. The shallow seam runs up the entire height of the wall, about 6’ from the top of the tub. If I understand, you are saying I should fill that and feather it toward the shallow side with thin set before water proofing with Aqua defense? I suspect a thicker layer of mortar can be used when setting the tile as well? Just trying to figure the best route here. Thanks again!
I am tiling a 12 in tall section above a shower wall that runs even with the bottom of the cement board, would I treat it like the shower pan and thinset and tape where the bottom of the cement board meets the top of the shower wall?
Really should use alkali-resistant mesh tape in showers/ baths. That stuff will absolutely fail in moist environments. Also the kind of thinset matters in moist environments. You should use ANSI A118.1. 👍
if your not using a fiberglass shower pan, but making your own pan how far up from the pan should the cement board be, I was told never put your board in the pan or touch the pan. I'm also going to use USG Fiberock Tile Backboard instead of cement board do I cut it the same way?
My black plastic escutcheon for the shower valve sticks out about 1/2” from the cement board. will that be a problem? or will the body of the shower handle cover that up?
I am installing a 30x60 shower that I plan to tile around afterwards. Two of my walls are framed in, and I plan to use cement board on those. My third wall has two challenges. It has a window that I'll be working around and its made of block. The block was badly gouged and in places has holes knocked in it by a previous renovation. Is there a good way to lay thin cement board on that wall as well so I have a good surface to attach my tile to? My first thought was just to tap con it into place and then carry on with the rest of the job, but I'd rather not have to go back and redo it if I'm guessing wrong.
The back wall on my shower is a block wall. You should use furring strips on the block wall, and then from there, you can hang your cement board. Also I would recommend adding 3/4 inch foam insulation in between the furring strips. You can use a little liquid nail on the backs of the foam board to keep it in place.
Josh I have a question... when the cement board is touching the shower pan.... how do you water proof it so no water gets to the cement board? I see one video where you put mortar down there. Thanks
When you use the tape rule and pencil to scribe a long line just hook the tip of the rule on the lip of what you are measuring and put the pencil on the measurement you want. Way more exact than your way. Try it you will see what I mean.
How much gap can you get away with before trying to shim the wall board? I running about a 3/16 gap between stud face and the cement board and what is the preferred method of shimming Reply
You can either use shims or you can wet shim. That's when you use thinset where your gap is, and then you can press your backer board into the thinset. Don't sink your screws just yet where the thinset is. Start your screw but before completely securing it, let the thinset cure. Afterwards you can tighten the screw. If you tighten it first, you'll just mush the thinset. Hope this helps a little.
I see a lot of guys using Ridgid tools on TH-cam, can you tell me why you're using ridgid tools? I'm a mechanic and I use Milwaukee tools at work, but I'm planning on doing a whole house remodel. I've started buying Milwaukee carpenter tools because that's they type of batteries that I already have and use on a daily basis. Is the warranty on Ridgid tools better? Please tell me why you're using Ridgid tools and maybe I might switch over.
Rigid might be sending tools to TH-cam contractors for free as easy product placement or will actually pay some of them to only use rigid if the channel is big enough. I haven't used much rigid tools so can't offer much on how good they are, but most tools are basically up to you about what feels best in your hand. Every company has different weights, sizes, shapes, volumes, vibration levels, and angles that they make slightly different to try and make theirs a little 'better' than others. I have Dewalt drills but am looking at switching to either Makita's or Milwaukee's since Milwaukee has seemed to really step up their game lately, but have always liked Makita. Most important thing is getting a set of drills that feel good in your hands, how heavy they are compared to others can matter when you're working over your head, it's weird how holding a 4 or 5 pound drill over your head when hanging drywall on a ceiling can make on your shoulders so light drills are nice. If you already have batteries and you like your drills maybe avoid switching brands since batteries are expensive, maybe just get a new set for your house and have your old ones for the shop. See if you can try different brands at the store, you might not like how loud the impacts are or the vibration, or the weight might be different than what you're used too. In the end most tools do the exact same thing as the other brands, just have a different look and feel so find what you like most
My cement board on the side where the shower faucet is doesn't end in a stud do I add 1 for it to end on or continue over out side of the shower area to meet the next stud
When I install the drywall before the cement board I always place a stud for it to break at that area. I would recommend you do the same so your cement board has a nailer. If you do not want to do that you can try to add blocking to give a place for the cement board to end at. I hope that helps!
Never once taped and mudded joints on cement board. Only ever used hardiebacker. Whats the point of thin setting the joints? Wont that happen when the tile is installed?
When you tape the joints fit makes a wall flat at the beveled areas. For two, you have to waterproof the cement board and you must fill the cracks like shown in the video. Hope that helps!
It’s to prevent cracks. It makes the area you’re tiling one continuous plane instead of multiple planes. Do not use regular drywall mesh tape because it will break down.
1. Cement board will wick water if it touches the flat area of the tub rim. 2. Pulling cement board over the lip either puts a bend at the bottom, or pulls the sheet out of plumb. Cement board should end above the tub, preferably 1/4” above the lip to allow some movement.
That's really unfortunate since your local code is requiring you to go against the manufacturer's installation instructions. Maybe you can send your local code makers the actual proper guidelines so they can change the code?? You can pull it off the website but you can call up USG and have them tell you which page to find out info and diagram on (pg 6 if memory serves me). Maybe include the number where they can call them to hear it straight from the manufacturer for themselves. Scary to think the people making the codes there don't actually know how to use the products properly. I wonder what else they are writing into code that goes against the manufacturer's instructions.
I dont know if you will ever see this comment. But i want you to know that you have given me so much confidence to do things in my home on my own. Your video's are so detailed and easy to follow, you add tips and always have the best information. Thanks to you I am remodeling my son's tub/shower combo to a walk in shower. So far I have ripped down the drywall to tile up to the ceiling. I have installed cement boards. I have to change the pvc plumbing to make the drain centered but I'm doing it because of you. Next I will follow your video's to complete the whole process. I would love to show you my progress pictures. THank you more than you know Josh!!
Good video, good instruction as always
a tip for you the most important personal protection equipment you can wear when cutting concrete board is a mask
Dude! The nail trick saved my back!
The way diy videos should be
Thank you Billy!
Best video on TH-cam for DIY cement board install
Instructions given are clear and easy to understand. Good teacher!
Thank you that means a lot to me. Take care!
@@TheExcellentLaborer I usually don't leave comments, but this one deserves 2 comments. Basically your TH-cam channel gave me the info I was seeking for cause I am rennovating our master bathroom. Thank you very much!
I’ve watch many instructional videos in past but the way you explain everything is so clear and you explain step by step. All your videos are quality and the best diy instructional videos on TH-cam
Excellent Teacher. Absolutely straight forward. Congrats. 👏 👏 👏
I appreciate that. I try to make my videos easy to follow and understand. Thank you!
Love these videos! I am in the process of refurbing my bathroom. Currently installing Durarock above the shower surround. I was not sure what to use for joint compound of sorts for this material. Now I do! Thanks Josh! For all you do and share on these videos!
This is by far the most informative, straight forward construction channel on TH-cam, you deserve way more subscribers. Keep the videos coming, they’re much appreciated
I truly do appreciate that. This comment just made my day! My goal was to make videos to help people and you gave me confirmation of that. Thanks a lot for watching!
Very nicely done and very informative! Recently installed the cement board in my shower, and was very much similar to your method, except that I used an Alkali-Resistant Cement Board Tape instead of the mesh tape you used. Product is: FibaTape Alkali-Resistant 2 in. x 150 ft. Self-Adhesive Cement Board Tape
Cheers! Subscribed!
Out of all the videos I have watched with this type of the work. You are the most thorough and detailed. Great video!! After this video, I’m now ready to do my work.
Best videos ever for DIYer bathroom remodeling. 1 question: can i replace parts of the bathroom drywall outside the shower wet area with cement board?
I need to replace some sections located at the bottom of the drywalls. I already finished tiling the shower walls and my shower looks fabulous thanks to your coaching.🙏🏼🙏🏼
I learned more useful tips and info in the first 5 minutes of your tutorial than from watching hours of other TH-cam channels. This gives me the confidence to solo install my shower tile. Thank you!
Edit to add, a month later: 1) You have to wear a mask if you are using any kind of power tool to cut the backer board. 2) Cut the board outside. 3) Do not allow any living thing to be nearby. That includes pets. 4) Research silica dust and backer board to understand why.
Great instructional video with some very smart short cut methods, especially for those of us who work alone.
First off, so glad you explained the options of cutting the cement board. Even using hardi backer the same process of all three. I've seen guys not put the nylon tape over the joints and even using a latex silicone in between the joints as they put the boards up. ( What's your thought of the silicone usage?)
Some time use should look at the schluter system. Having the ability to go over drywall products it's one advantage. Cost is one aspect but labor cost comparison is what to consider. First time using the schluter system was a bit of a challenge but as you do more, it gets easier.
Great job Josh as always and the use of eye and ear protection along with a mask if using a circular saw. Who wants to breathe in that dust. 👍🏻
I feel like silicone would be a fine idea in the joints. Since I use the waterproofing and crack prevention coating I do not worry about it. I would like to use that system on the next shower just to get more familiar with it. Seems like everybody likes it. I would have to study up on it. It was windy outside that day so the dust was not in my face but yes a respirator would’ve been a good idea. Thanks David for watching and commenting as always. You are the man!
Found the video and product information which I saved. Yes, I've used aqua defense. Great product for sure.
Always great responses as well from my friends and contractors. Of course we all usually have ideas that work better for each process, but like my Dad always said, "you have to start somewhere".
Great man and I miss him even my father-in-law who was in the trades as well. 🙏🏻
The Best teacher,
HI Josh. Thanks for the excellent tutorials! Would you please tell me why you started at the top and not at the bottom when placing the backer boards?
Apparently not cause there is no reason to start at the top. Drywallers do that but no reason with the 3x5 cement boards. If it works out bad you could end up with a rip at the bottom and I prefer a whole piece with less seams as high as I can go
The best video ever about installing cement board
Another great video 👍 I personally haven’t used cement board in a few years 😆 I like the oscillating tool trick 👍
Thanks BRT! I noticed you always use the alternative. Which seems like good stuff! If I was a full-time bathroom remodeler I would get more experience with it. Thanks for stopping by!
Sooooo gooood!!! Top 5 videos for this FOR SURE!! and I’ve watched almost all of TH-cam shower videos
Congratulations
you did a fantastic job with this video
U do e a great job in explaining the process. Great job
I appreciate that!
The Durock installation instructions indicate the board should be shimmed 1/4 inch above the shower or tub flange. They also do not say to use construction adhesive to attach it to the wall. It's an unnecessary step. People say it gives the board more strength. However, your layer of thinset will provide the extra rigidity.
Thank you! I was wondering how important it is for the corner boards to be close? Our installer left a very large gap in the corners and I am wondering if this is going to cause issues later or if the mud fills it in?
Great video, how will cement board line up with a water resistant sheetrock on a flat wall?? Also rock the bathroom walls with green board?? Ty jimmy
Some cement board instruction sheets recommend alkali resistant tape. I know Durock does..
Wow very well done 😊
Thank you
One of the best!!!
Brotha you are the MF'n man for this video! We are at this very point of our bath/shower remodel and I have so much more confidence in getting it completed soon. Thank you for this man new SUB here!
Great DIY video. Great job!
Excellent tutorial!!!!
Thank you so much!
Another great video, thanks
Thank you OTC! I’ll keep them posting. Thanks for stopping by!
I like your demonstration, and explanation.
Thank you! I’m glad you really enjoyed the video. Good luck with your project!
Why would you put liquid nail on the studs? If you’re screwing it, it seems a bit pointless to me. As well, why start top down?
Love your instructional videos and.
Thanks Pete!
I think you may be the only video I watched where liquid nails was used installing cement backer-boards…I do know that liquids nails will make it very difficult to remove boarding if necessary in the future. Could you explain your use of liquid nails?
Do you put cement board on the ceiling of the shower? Or use regular or green drywall? Thanks.
Great vid.. when measuring around the bathroom window do you measure to to the very edge of the window frame or a bit beyond .. could you explain how to properly messure
Great video. Your channel is really helpful to me.
Thanks Robert! I’m glad I can help!
Thanks for your knowledge!!!to share.....us....
I’m glad I can pass my knowledge on to you!
Love you man!
Do you have an install video for installing onto cinder block walls not stud walls?
thank you. this will come in handy. I have the same shower pan except mine is 36 x 36. for laying down the 1st row of tile. how do i deal with the rounded edge at the front near the wall on both the right and left sides? Do I have trim my tile with a grinder?
Any experience with densshield backer boards
How deep in the pan should the cement board be? My tile-redi pan does not have a lip around the perimeter....should the cement board go to the floor? Maybe leave a 1/4-5/16" gap at the floor above the tile? Thanks!
excellent God Bless you
Thank you Sim. Same to you!
I'm actually doing this today with a bathtub. Thanks for the tips. I am guessing 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch abone the pan lip before filling with mortar.
1/8” should be plenty. Good luck with your project!
Thanks!
This is awesome thank you
I appreciate that Melissa. You are welcome!
Neat job Josh
Thank you Mohamed!
great video
Good stuff brother 🤙
Thanks Todd!
What is better.... having the cement board stop on top of the flange, or all the way down to the basin?
Good job bro 👋🙏🏻
Thanks a lot!
I watch you and I do agree with everything you said about hanging durock in your shower but my question is can I use the same durock that you used in your shower as a siding on the outside walls ?
Yes, I did it , painted it few years ago and it's holding up with no problems.
Do you need to seal cement board
Excelentes videos.
When you mud a pan do you put backer board on before the pan to about 1/2 inch above the OSB floor? or float it slightly above thel mud pan after its done? the mud floor is on roof paper and chicken wire (no Oatey pvc liner)
How would you rate the AquaDefense vs Kerdi system?? Pros or cons to each??
What would be the best way to use cement board with schluter pan
Hi Josh, your videos are incredibly helpful. I am replacing tile in our guest bath. It’s is a standard bath tub/shower. I have 2 questions for you. I have installed the cement board and used the thin set to patch seams and screws. I feel like the thin set needs to be sanded, so how smooth or rigid can the surface be without causing a problem? Also, the cement board is about 1/8” to 1/4” shallow at the seam with the drywall where the bullnose tile will be installed. Is this a problem and how do you fix?
Unless the thinset is protruding up over an 1/8 inch I would not worry about trying to sand down where you patch the screwholes because when you install the tile thinset is thicker than then we’ll cover it up. I would fill in the area you were talking about that is shallow with sunset before installing your bullnose. I hope that helps!
Thank you. The shallow seam runs up the entire height of the wall, about 6’ from the top of the tub. If I understand, you are saying I should fill that and feather it toward the shallow side with thin set before water proofing with Aqua defense? I suspect a thicker layer of mortar can be used when setting the tile as well? Just trying to figure the best route here. Thanks again!
Can u use green drywall instead of hardi board??
I am tiling a 12 in tall section above a shower wall that runs even with the bottom of the cement board, would I treat it like the shower pan and thinset and tape where the bottom of the cement board meets the top of the shower wall?
Really should use alkali-resistant mesh tape in showers/ baths. That stuff will absolutely fail in moist environments. Also the kind of thinset matters in moist environments. You should use ANSI A118.1. 👍
if your not using a fiberglass shower pan, but making your own pan how far up from the pan should the cement board be, I was told never put your board in the pan or touch the pan. I'm also going to use USG Fiberock Tile Backboard instead of cement board do I cut it the same way?
1/8” gap should be plenty. Hope that helps!
My black plastic escutcheon for the shower valve sticks out about 1/2” from the cement board. will that be a problem? or will the body of the shower handle cover that up?
I used utility knife works great but blade gets dull pretty fast
I am installing a 30x60 shower that I plan to tile around afterwards.
Two of my walls are framed in, and I plan to use cement board on those. My third wall has two challenges. It has a window that I'll be working around and its made of block. The block was badly gouged and in places has holes knocked in it by a previous renovation.
Is there a good way to lay thin cement board on that wall as well so I have a good surface to attach my tile to?
My first thought was just to tap con it into place and then carry on with the rest of the job, but I'd rather not have to go back and redo it if I'm guessing wrong.
The back wall on my shower is a block wall. You should use furring strips on the block wall, and then from there, you can hang your cement board. Also I would recommend adding 3/4 inch foam insulation in between the furring strips. You can use a little liquid nail on the backs of the foam board to keep it in place.
If I am installing a slab marble in the shower, do I use this same cement board?
Why didn't you use vapor barrier and green backer board?
Josh I have a question... when the cement board is touching the shower pan.... how do you water proof it so no water gets to the cement board? I see one video where you put mortar down there. Thanks
When you use the tape rule and pencil to scribe a long line just hook the tip of the rule on the lip of what you are measuring and put the pencil on the measurement you want. Way more exact than your way. Try it you will see what I mean.
Do u samd any of mud that was applied to corners or where boards r butt together
I have the same question did you find out what you needed to do?Thanks!
Sir, your an excellent narrator and teacher, I HAVE A TEACHING CREDENTIAL YOUR DOING GOOD. TELL THEM WHAT YOU WANGTO DO AND SNOW THEM HOW TO DO IG…
You're doing great work, my friend, truly appreciate your skills. I wish you continued success. Thanks again for posting amazing content 👍👍
Is thinset going to stick to the shower pan side? I would worry it would separate after time.
It ain’t going nowhere, tile will be set over that.
Where is the vapor barrier for moistere?
How much gap can you get away with before trying to shim the wall board? I running about a 3/16 gap between stud face and the cement board and what is the preferred method of shimming
Reply
You can either use shims or you can wet shim. That's when you use thinset where your gap is, and then you can press your backer board into the thinset. Don't sink your screws just yet where the thinset is. Start your screw but before completely securing it, let the thinset cure. Afterwards you can tighten the screw. If you tighten it first, you'll just mush the thinset. Hope this helps a little.
Do you use any special tool for countersinking the screws?
He uses an impact driver.
Do you have them for sale?
I want to start making courses soon!
Can anyone tell me why they use durock instead of drywall?
I see a lot of guys using Ridgid tools on TH-cam, can you tell me why you're using ridgid tools? I'm a mechanic and I use Milwaukee tools at work, but I'm planning on doing a whole house remodel. I've started buying Milwaukee carpenter tools because that's they type of batteries that I already have and use on a daily basis. Is the warranty on Ridgid tools better? Please tell me why you're using Ridgid tools and maybe I might switch over.
Rigid might be sending tools to TH-cam contractors for free as easy product placement or will actually pay some of them to only use rigid if the channel is big enough. I haven't used much rigid tools so can't offer much on how good they are, but most tools are basically up to you about what feels best in your hand. Every company has different weights, sizes, shapes, volumes, vibration levels, and angles that they make slightly different to try and make theirs a little 'better' than others. I have Dewalt drills but am looking at switching to either Makita's or Milwaukee's since Milwaukee has seemed to really step up their game lately, but have always liked Makita. Most important thing is getting a set of drills that feel good in your hands, how heavy they are compared to others can matter when you're working over your head, it's weird how holding a 4 or 5 pound drill over your head when hanging drywall on a ceiling can make on your shoulders so light drills are nice.
If you already have batteries and you like your drills maybe avoid switching brands since batteries are expensive, maybe just get a new set for your house and have your old ones for the shop. See if you can try different brands at the store, you might not like how loud the impacts are or the vibration, or the weight might be different than what you're used too. In the end most tools do the exact same thing as the other brands, just have a different look and feel so find what you like most
Great video. Please wear lung protection when cutting cement board though.
Tell me you didn't use drywall fiber tape for the joints. It has to be alkali resistant fiber tape.
❤
I used 1|4 screws idk if that's ok
My cement board on the side where the shower faucet is doesn't end in a stud do I add 1 for it to end on or continue over out side of the shower area to meet the next stud
When I install the drywall before the cement board I always place a stud for it to break at that area. I would recommend you do the same so your cement board has a nailer. If you do not want to do that you can try to add blocking to give a place for the cement board to end at. I hope that helps!
Exelente explication thanks you
I'm from Boston MA
You don't use black paper behind the backer
Never once taped and mudded joints on cement board. Only ever used hardiebacker. Whats the point of thin setting the joints? Wont that happen when the tile is installed?
When you tape the joints fit makes a wall flat at the beveled areas. For two, you have to waterproof the cement board and you must fill the cracks like shown in the video. Hope that helps!
It’s to prevent cracks. It makes the area you’re tiling one continuous plane instead of multiple planes. Do not use regular drywall mesh tape because it will break down.
Not in california
Cement dust
Local Code says put board over the bathtub lip and not on top of the lip. Nice video otherwise.
The key word here is local…
Local to whom…?
1. Cement board will wick water if it touches the flat area of the tub rim.
2. Pulling cement board over the lip either puts a bend at the bottom, or pulls the sheet out of plumb.
Cement board should end above the tub, preferably 1/4” above the lip to allow some movement.
That's really unfortunate since your local code is requiring you to go against the manufacturer's installation instructions. Maybe you can send your local code makers the actual proper guidelines so they can change the code?? You can pull it off the website but you can call up USG and have them tell you which page to find out info and diagram on (pg 6 if memory serves me). Maybe include the number where they can call them to hear it straight from the manufacturer for themselves. Scary to think the people making the codes there don't actually know how to use the products properly. I wonder what else they are writing into code that goes against the manufacturer's instructions.
Ass
Cement shit board use dansheild
I bought the thinner flimsy one , can it still be used for the walls??
I only recommend using half inch cement board on walls. I hope that helps!