Can you paint (prime?) the plastic edge that is left exposed on the tear away bead? I’m redoing my fireplace with a modern drywall look (don’t worry, it’s an all-enclosed gas fireplace, so no fire code concerns). I feel like this bead is the ideal solution I need for where the inside edges of my new drywall surrounds and butts up against the outside frame edges of the fireplace box. My drywall is a bit thicker than the edges of the fireplace box that the drywall rests against. So the drywall actually has a bit of a “reveal” effect. I think that the reveal will be thick enough that caulk, alone, will not cover it completely. Ideally, I don’t want a visible white plastic inside edge reveal that contrasts with the paint we use to color the surface of the drywall. I would like to paint this bead material the same color as the face of the drywall. We’re painting with a unique paint that is almost like plaster. It’s called Portola (a type of Roman Clay). I’m wondering if I could do all of the above with that finish.
Yes, you can prime and paint the plastic that remains on the surface. Why have the drywall jutting out? Why not set the fireplace out a bit further and make that the reveal, with the drywall a tiny bit set back? Also, won't that surface be exposed to a bit too much heat?
What size of staples do you recommend. I bought this from csr today for my window returns. I will be using 1/4 drywal to cover my window returns and wonder what size of staples you recommend. (Product is available for 1/4 drywall).
Removed my window trim to try and do this but turned out the the vinyl window is surrounded by previous wood window blocking... GG.. any thoughts to achieve the same minimalism look other thank putting a 1x4? Thanks
@@hunt4mouse if I understand correctly, you can most likely just fill in the 3/8” gap with a catalyzed mud (durabond or Sheetrock 90 are both great) and let it set up before installing the tear away bead. You’ll want to leave a gap about a trowels width between the vinyl window and the filler mud for the lip of the tear away bead. A good tip is to wait until the mud is 75% cured and then test fit your bead (there’s a lip on the back that you’ll want to carve out in order for the bead to sit flat). You can carve it out after it’s dry, but it’s easier when the mud is firm but not cured. Sounds like a lot of extra work but it’s not too bad- we actually did this exact process for the window in this video 👍
Great question. Mainly because these beads don’t have the mud lock technology that some of their newer beads do- so the glue and staples are necessary to ensure that the vinyl is securely fastened to the drywall. It also makes installing a lot easier if you can stick the bead to the wall first. The glue is designed to be extra tacky and has flexibility before it sets up (so you can make minor adjustments before it dries). The staples simply provide a mechanical fastener to lock things in place, and the mud is the last piece of the puzzle!
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I like the way you explained it.
We like that you liked it 👍
Looks good man. I’m Doing this down some stairs, drywall to trim. Love the music choice!
Much appreciated!
Can you paint (prime?) the plastic edge that is left exposed on the tear away bead?
I’m redoing my fireplace with a modern drywall look (don’t worry, it’s an all-enclosed gas fireplace, so no fire code concerns). I feel like this bead is the ideal solution I need for where the inside edges of my new drywall surrounds and butts up against the outside frame edges of the fireplace box.
My drywall is a bit thicker than the edges of the fireplace box that the drywall rests against. So the drywall actually has a bit of a “reveal” effect. I think that the reveal will be thick enough that caulk, alone, will not cover it completely.
Ideally, I don’t want a visible white plastic inside edge reveal that contrasts with the paint we use to color the surface of the drywall. I would like to paint this bead material the same color as the face of the drywall.
We’re painting with a unique paint that is almost like plaster. It’s called Portola (a type of Roman Clay). I’m wondering if I could do all of the above with that finish.
Yes, you can prime and paint the plastic that remains on the surface.
Why have the drywall jutting out? Why not set the fireplace out a bit further and make that the reveal, with the drywall a tiny bit set back?
Also, won't that surface be exposed to a bit too much heat?
Trying this on a tub surround today. Hope it works
So do we! Let us know how it goes 😎
What size of staples do you recommend. I bought this from csr today for my window returns. I will be using 1/4 drywal to cover my window returns and wonder what size of staples you recommend. (Product is available for 1/4 drywall).
1/2” or 3/8” staples should be fine👍
What's that tune in the background lol
Removed my window trim to try and do this but turned out the the vinyl window is surrounded by previous wood window blocking... GG.. any thoughts to achieve the same minimalism look other thank putting a 1x4? Thanks
Is the blocking flush with the current vinyl window or recessed slightly? How big is the gap between the drywall and the vinyl window?
@@RefreshHomeImprovements the blocking comes out about 3/8", to both the drywall and vinyl
@@hunt4mouse if I understand correctly, you can most likely just fill in the 3/8” gap with a catalyzed mud (durabond or Sheetrock 90 are both great) and let it set up before installing the tear away bead. You’ll want to leave a gap about a trowels width between the vinyl window and the filler mud for the lip of the tear away bead. A good tip is to wait until the mud is 75% cured and then test fit your bead (there’s a lip on the back that you’ll want to carve out in order for the bead to sit flat). You can carve it out after it’s dry, but it’s easier when the mud is firm but not cured. Sounds like a lot of extra work but it’s not too bad- we actually did this exact process for the window in this video 👍
why glue and staple, why not just mud only?
Great question. Mainly because these beads don’t have the mud lock technology that some of their newer beads do- so the glue and staples are necessary to ensure that the vinyl is securely fastened to the drywall. It also makes installing a lot easier if you can stick the bead to the wall first. The glue is designed to be extra tacky and has flexibility before it sets up (so you can make minor adjustments before it dries). The staples simply provide a mechanical fastener to lock things in place, and the mud is the last piece of the puzzle!
Show me a video on how to install no plug tear off
@@RefreshHomeImprovements I C, that makes sense... my corners are so messed up some times, I need the extra mud on the inside lol
Nice one mate.
Thanks 👍
So satisfying 😉
Totally Agree!
Where do you buy these?
Not sure where you’re located, but we get them from CSR Building Supplies (www.csrbuilding.com)
Lowes or home depot in the drywall section
Lowes or home depot