This is a really great detail that isn't prohibitively expensive - I ended up speccing it all over our next few houses so we will get a lot of practice. Tip - if you can find a piece of 1/2 diameter rope or backer rod you can stuff it in the reveal while doing mudwork then pull it for a clean finish!
The sheetrockers totally messed mine up and redid it twice and now I have 6000 s/f of wide rounded bottom corners made with compound. The painters had to sculpt the corners as best as they could. Wish I found this video prior to show them. Well done!
@@UnknownUser.ar1 If you make it soft + high density leds and if your home aesthetic is clean like their house is, lighting like that is a perfect touch
Base moldings were not there for the look. It was there to protect. Now these walls have no protection. Any chair table Anything you move around will hit the wall,, before when there was moldings. Whatever you would move around would hit the mold before the wall .
Thank you for sharing!!! my guys followed your instructions to a T and it turned out GREAT. It definitely requires patience. The first few sections were challenging, but once they got a hang of it, it was very straightforward.
@Refresh Home Improvements You mentioned using Benjamin Moore Chelsea Gray to paint the reveal beads, but when you’re actually spraying at 0:32 , it looks like you apply a much darker color before repainting over with the Chelsea Gray. What’s the darker color? And what is the purpose of doing that? Or is that just the wet, first coat? 😅
Good eye! The first coat we applied is a tinted primer to help with adhesion as well as to get the colour closer to the final product. We’ve since learned you technically don’t need to use a primer for adhesion purposes on Trim-Tex vinyl, but it made it so we didn’t have to paint 3 coats of the Top coat 👍
reveal base, aesthetically much better than no-base one youtuber describes this gorgeous reveal base detail as stunning 💕💕💕 literally jaw dropping 😲❤❤❤ But I'm a traditional baseboard lover😁 Traditional baseboard with intricately ornamented mouldings 💕💕 I love it 💕💕
When the say "kerfed jambs" it means routing a notch on the jamb so a corner bead can lay in the notch (covering the gap b/w drywall and jamb) allowing you to pull the drywall up to the jamb and allowing for a no-trim / no-casing look. Is that what this is except you're doing drywall to floor instead of drywall to jamb or are those 2 completely different things?
Probably more different than similar in this case. With this type of look/design, all you’re really doing is cutting back the drywall to provide room for the decorative bead to fit between the drywall and whatever other surface it will be touching. There is no kerf to speak of, the bead sits on top of the drywall and simply butts up against the other surface (and thus there isn’t a ton of room for error). Hope that helps 👍
Hey mate! Love your work! I wondered if you had seen the “Invisible Baseboard” video and what your thoughts are on it? What are your thoughts on removing the shadowline by using an L bead which sits 1-2mm off the FFL? You run the impact plaster to 5mm above the FFL, then bridge the gap with the L bead to create a very small shadowline that way it removed any possibility for capillary reaction from the floor?
Planning on doing this in our next property, but with the reveals higher and using an oak skirting board that sits flush beneath the reveal. Can I ask how they are fixed to the wall?
Good question! It does- and it’s still got one (albeit a slightly smaller, more consistent gap than more installers would bother with). As long as its less than 3/4” it’ll be covered by the bead 👍
looks great! I am wondering where the Lbead and Fbead meet whether it would have looked better if it did carry on without terminating into the white Lbead...? Really like the look better than the 4 inch high reveal.
Great question- we debated running it the way you suggested, before ultimately landing on this look. We agree though, it would probably look great the other way too. Thanks for your interest!
I really want to do this look, but I have just a small home improvement project and only need a few lengths of beads, everywhere I call will only send me a whole box. Any ideas where I could purchase single beads?
This can be tricky for sure. Best bet would be to find a distributor and go to them directly with the request. we know that the logistics of shipping large items (8 feet and up) is a nightmare for them, so to make it worth the trouble they need to send large quantities. Perhaps If you solve this problem by picking them up directly they’ll be more willing to help you out? Where are you located btw? If you’re near us we can suggest a distributor that might be able to help
Love all your vids on using beads instead of bulky baseboards or mouldings! Got me so excited about my own diy. Can I do this reveal beads on my painted drywall though? Do I just have to sand it down? Thanks!
Thanks! If I understand your question correctly, you should totally be able to add them to previously installed drywall- you’d just need to cut out a section the width of the reveal anywhere you’d be installing the beads. If you’re replacing baseboards with reveal beads, we recommend making sure your floors continue under the wall first (often floor installers will leave a gap that gets covered by baseboards/shoe moulding) 👍.
Thats kind of nice but what about if water gets spilled wouldn't that mess up the subfloor? I would think normal baseboard and caulking would stop that more but i dont know. Also what about insulation part for lets say outside walls?
Vinyl will hold up to water much better than MDF or wood, and its not common practice (at least where we are) to caulk/silicone your baseboards to the floor (they need to be able to shift/move separately). Either way, the floor continues underneath the reveal beads in case that’s your concern. As far as insulation, this bead is applied on the drywall, and thus would be on top of any insulation you would require on an exterior wall (it also meets the floor the same way regular baseboard would). If drafts are an issue, it probably wouldn’t solve that issue, but baseboards aren’t really a solution either. Hope that helps!
Great video! I’m doing a retrofit on an early 2000s colonial with 1/2 drywall in the master bathroom. I went with a 1/2” z reveal around the doors. I’m deciding on a 1/4” z for the base or a 1/2” f. I feel the 1/4” z would still allow for some imperfections because there’s still 1/4” behind the reveal. The 1/2” f reveal would also do this but what would look better? Traditional casing around doors is supposed to be more pronounced than the baseboard so I’m kinda thinking about it like that with the base reveal being a smaller z 1/4” with the z 1/2” around the doors. But I’ve never done it before so I would take your word. I’ve got to cut the bottom of the drywall all the way around anyway. Would you think the 1/4” z would make the walls look taller as well? Best regards friends!
Wow that’s an awesome idea! Good for you for going for it 👍 in our experience you’re always better off doing a mock up before you make any cuts on the real project. Set up a scrap piece of drywall with your idea of the smaller 1/4” reveal on the baseboard and 1/2” casing and bring it into the bathroom and see what you think! Let us know how it goes, we’d love to see pictures 😎👍
For this particular bead, you’ll have a lot more success if the floor is installed first. That’s not to say it couldn’t be done- but ideally the bead sits directly on top of the floor, and therefor there won’t be a ton of wiggle room to slide the new flooring underneath (especially if it’s not the same thickness as the whats already there). You might be left with either no room to slip the new floor in, or large gaps (if the new floor is thinner) 👍
Great video - love the modern feel. Does anyone have a sense of cost of this versus baseboard. Certainly the cost of the plastic trimtex must be less than oak base - but wondering of the labor increase in the reveal bead makes it a wash, or perhaps still more expensive than nice base.. Thx.
Good question! It's hard to say with so many variables, and it DEFINITELY depends on the installer (and if its a retrofit installation vs new construction)- but as a general guideline we'd suggest its most likely going to be more expensive than installing a basic baseboard, but closer to a wash compared to an ornate baseboard/shoe molding combo install 👍
The main difference between the Z and the F bead, is that the F bead has a flap that covers the floor, while the Z doesn’t. This affords you some room for error when installing them over hardwood that requires a gap for expansion. As for the paint, you could paint the reveal any colour you want! We used grey because that’s what the designer wanted 👍
Do you know if there's any reason to use an F bead over a Z bead? Or are they always F beads for the reveal baseboards like this? Or are Z beads only used for flush baseboards?
This was a while ago, so it’s possible that they either don’t make it in that size anymore (or we were mistaken and it’s actually a 5/8” reveal). We’ll have to check with Trim Tex, sorry for the confusion 👍
What tricks do you recommend for keeping the mud off the reveal portion of the bead? What are your thoughts on using a high gloss paint for the reveal? Just thinking for cleaning, that would be easiest. Much thanks!
Fortunately there is a raised lip before the reveal (the same as on their tear-away beads) that helps keep mud out of the reveal portion. Beyond that, you could always place a clean trowel IN the reveal as you’re skimming to further extend the lip (and as usual, keep a wet cloth/rag to wipe away any mistakes 😉). As for the high gloss, it could definitely look cool- just remember that the “gloss” works primarily when the light reflects off of the surface, and these reveals (also known as a shadow reveal) don’t get much light 💡👍.
@@Jordan-dd5co that's actually what I ended up doing and it works perfectly! Just have to make sure the diameter of the rope = the width of the bead. So grateful for this video!
I ran brown painter tape inside along the bottom (glue edge to the outside on the flooring) them installed on 1/2” x 1/2” insulation foam tape inside the reveal (on top of the tape - kept the reveal perfectly clean. Tip: be sure to lightly sand along the top edge of the reveal to ‘break free’ any mud that gets on the face of the foam
It’s Trim-Tex 847 Spray Adhesive. Basically a high tack, pressure sensitive spray adhesive designed to work on vinyl. And yes, most of their older beads ask for glue and staples to secure them while the mud sets up. Hope that helps 👍
Great question! In this case, we built the space to accommodate the reveal beads- so there wasn’t any demolition/drywall removal etc. needed. But you’ve certainly given us a great idea for a future video though! There’s a little more info in the comments regarding things to think about when installing these beads retroactively, so be sure to check out some of the other comment threads👍
Another awesome product. Y'all find the coolest stuff. Thank you for the tips for installation. How is the durability and what type of paint did you use that will stand up to normal cleaning of the floors? Thank you as always for sharing😃
Happy to help! We hit it with two coats of Rust-Oleum’s Plastic Primer Spray (tinted grey) before a topcoat of Benjamin Moore Ulti-Matte in the final colour. If the top coat scratches off, the primer underneath is a close match (and the top coat can be easily re-applied with a q-tip or an artists brush).
Looks awesome! Would you be worried about installing the floor after the beads are installed? We already have the flooring on hand to get an accurate measurement for height, but I’m more worried about installing the last row of tongue and groove hardwood since it has to slip under the reveal. I suppose I could cut the tongue off the last row of boards and angle it under the wall first and glue it down? Thanks!
Great question 👍 it will certainly be more difficult to do it in that order, but that’s not to say it couldn’t be done. My best guess is that it will lead to more unexpected gaps between the reveal beads and the floor- but honestly we’ve never tried doing it that way, so we can’t say for sure. Please let us know how it goes!
How did it go? I haven’t laid my engineered hardwood yet and haven’t put in the reveal iether. I’m doing a refab on a early 2000s master bedroom. The drywall is too low for a reveal so I’ll have to cut off the bottom of the drywall about an inch all the way around in order for the reveal to fit with the hardwood. I was going to do a 1/4 z reveal instead of the f.
@@jvollbach I ended up installing the F bead after putting in the floors, and am glad I did. No matter how flat you think your floors are, you’d have high and low spots trying to install the f bead before the flooring. Also, the F bead needs the floor to rest on to keep it from moving back and forth to get the corners to align properly. I even had to use a small dab of silicone between the floor and F bead on some corners that weren’t square to get them to align.
@@jvollbach I also found that the 20V DEWALT atomic saw was the perfect height to lay the guard on the floor to cut away the drywall. I am, however, using the 5/8 bead and not the 3/4. You could make a jig pretty easily, though.
Matt, dude thanks for the speedy reply!! I will do the floors first to determine how much I need to cut from the drywall then! Now to figure out how I’m going to install this tongue n groove engineered hardwood to get the last row as close as possible to the wood behind the drywall with the drywall being there. It’s not like I’ll be able to fit it directly up against it because of the drywall which should leave enough room for alil expansion. I’m thinking I’m gunna staple down the hardwood then glue the last row in without a tongue. How is your last row liking the glue?
These come in a white (vinyl) and I believe they’re also sold in an aluminum finish as well (which could look awesome). The good news is that you can paint them any colour you want- so the options are endless. Keep in mind that the shadow it creates will make the colour look darker than it really is. Going with the wall colour would be a safe place to start 👍
That’s awesome! Our application was a little more complicated because we didn’t use any casing around the door frame. If you’re installing them in a more traditional setting, you’ll have to decide what look you prefer. You could chose to terminate the reveal bead at the point where it meets the casing, or even an inch or two before. You could also run the reveal bead to the jamb and overlay your casing on top of it. Try a few different mock ups and do what you think looks best 👍.
An advantage of cutting it after would be that you’ll be able to get a more precise measurement for your cuts- but you could also do it before if you prefer (just make sure you account for the height of the self leveling) 👍
I'm interested in doing this for my new house build coming up this year. I'm going for a modern farm house look. Any tips on what I should look out for using this product?
That’s awesome! Make sure you’ve got a sharp blade with lots of teeth (preferably over 100) if you’re using a mitre saw, and use floor protection (for the adhesive spray). You’ll also go through a ton of staples 😉.
There’s something to be said for this style finishing instead of molding, especially baseboard. Back in the day people wanted baseboard molding to protect the drywall especially from vacuum cleaners, but with robotic vacuums, it’s less of a concern anymore
It’s always a slight concern, but the vinyl is extremely durable, and does not dent. The mud lip provides some protection, and any chips/dents in the drywall or mud would be easier to fix than a dent in wood anyways 👍.
Definitely! These are Trim-Tex F Reveal Beads with a 3/4" reveal (stock number AS8730). We're in Toronto, and get all of our stuff through CSR building Supplies www.csrbuilding.com . Best of luck with your project!
Absolutely- but it depends on the situation. An issue you might run into is if your floor doesn’t continue underneath the drywall. Often floor installers leave a gap for expansion that gets covered by baseboard/shoe moulding. Because these reveal beads are flush with the drywall, they don’t provide any extra coverage when it comes to the floor. We knew we’d be installing these reveal beads in advance, so we had our flooring installer bring the boards closer to the studs to avoid this problem. You’ll want to check that before installing 😉
@@RefreshHomeImprovements What is the solution to the floors not running under the drywall. Do I have to add more flooring? Is there any other solution? Thanks
Good question! We’ve never tried it (and can’t say for sure), but we don’t see a reason why it wouldn’t, other than that it would be incredibly difficult if the concrete is already set without a channel for the bead to sit in 🤷
In summary what is the installation order? Subfloor, then partitions frames, plasterboards leaving space for the profile, install the finished floor, install the profile and skim the plasterboards ?
Very good question! For this application, we installed the drywall as we normally would, and then used our Makita XDS01Z cutout saw to remove the amount we needed. We got lucky in that running that tool on its side along the floor gave us the perfect cutout for the beads. You could also cut a piece of stock to the exact height and run an oscillating/multi tool on top of that (as long as your floors are flat 😉).
I’m confused, I have seen many types of flush skirtings. Tile skirting Gypsum skirting MDF skirting U shaped channel F shaped channel (like the one you are using) Do all roads lead to Rome? - By far what you did is the most appalling to me but it’s quite expensive if I want to do it for all the walls in a house. I think it will cost as much as $10K (materials + installation)!
Funny how “minimalism” is so much more complicated and expensive. It looks cool because it’s “different”, but baseboards and trim exist for a very functional reason.
a wildly impractical practice developed by Archi's for Galleries frequented by the rich who have weekly cleaning service in the 1st, 2nd & 3rd homes. this was already dated by 5-10yrs when this came out 4 yrs ago. but, you know, Home Depot figured they could commodify it and bilk the working class out of some retirement funds.
DIYer here...I was gonna do this to my house, but after we took out the baseboards, we found fairly huge gaps between the flooring and the wall...oh well
Sorry to hear that! It’s definitely a common problem when trying to do a renovation like this retroactively. This particular look needs some forethought for exactly that reason- most floor installs are not taken close to the framing to give room for expansion and contraction of the floor boards. Thanks for taking the time to write about your experience 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Thanks for the response! I think we're gonna end up going with a minimalist trim like a 5/8" square, instead of standard baseboards
Your gluing metal bead to mud? First off you don’t glue that type of bead. Second now that you already loaded the mud and are putting the bead on top, you have added a layer. You now have to float the mud at the bottom and it will flair it out. Alain now you have to go and mud it again.
I just can't say what I think of of this, I bet lowering your price and doing this thing would be just fn wonderful leave the floor guys a little mud for touch up the painter's will be more than happy to fix the rest .this should become the industry standard mabe even offer retro fit services and eliminate base trim make the greener and all that bullshit ,I don't know what drugs you are on but have at it bo iz ...
This new reveal bullcrap is horrible. I don't know who came up with it but it's horrible. It's as if they are trying to limit carpentry. No moldings anywhere. Just looks like a mental home. The damage that all these corners are going to take ha ha ha It looks unfinished and cheap
![[FINALE] 💸ที่แท้พ่อเป็นผู้ถือหุ้นบริษัทพันล้าน เขากลับใจตอนนี้ก็สายไปแล้ว🙇🏻♂️#ละครคุณธรรม #short](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yFwgjTFISUI/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a really great detail that isn't prohibitively expensive - I ended up speccing it all over our next few houses so we will get a lot of practice. Tip - if you can find a piece of 1/2 diameter rope or backer rod you can stuff it in the reveal while doing mudwork then pull it for a clean finish!
Amazing tip 👍 thanks!
Really clean modern look.
Thanks!
The sheetrockers totally messed mine up and redid it twice and now I have 6000 s/f of wide rounded bottom corners made with compound. The painters had to sculpt the corners as best as they could. Wish I found this video prior to show them. Well done!
Sorry to hear that (we wish you did too 😉)!
running mood light strips under it would make it look amazing
🤯 great idea! Next time 😂
@@RefreshHomeImprovements
Noo! Too much lighting is a cringe.
@@UnknownUser.ar1 If you make it soft + high density leds and if your home aesthetic is clean like their house is, lighting like that is a perfect touch
@@Dog3D
Baseboard light is aweful!
It’d look like an airplane runway.
This looks so much better than baseboards.
Agreed!
Base moldings were not there for the look. It was there to protect. Now these walls have no protection. Any chair table Anything you move around will hit the wall,, before when there was moldings. Whatever you would move around would hit the mold before the wall .
Thank you for sharing!!! my guys followed your instructions to a T and it turned out GREAT. It definitely requires patience. The first few sections were challenging, but once they got a hang of it, it was very straightforward.
That’s awesome! We’re thrilled it worked out for you, and that we were able to help. That’s why we do it 😎
@Refresh Home Improvements
You mentioned using Benjamin Moore Chelsea Gray to paint the reveal beads, but when you’re actually spraying at 0:32 , it looks like you apply a much darker color before repainting over with the Chelsea Gray.
What’s the darker color? And what is the purpose of doing that? Or is that just the wet, first coat? 😅
Good eye! The first coat we applied is a tinted primer to help with adhesion as well as to get the colour closer to the final product. We’ve since learned you technically don’t need to use a primer for adhesion purposes on Trim-Tex vinyl, but it made it so we didn’t have to paint 3 coats of the Top coat 👍
Nice video! And thanks for addressing all the questions in the comments.
Our pleasure 😎. Happy to help!
reveal base,
aesthetically much better than no-base
one youtuber describes this gorgeous reveal base detail as
stunning 💕💕💕
literally jaw dropping 😲❤❤❤
But I'm a traditional baseboard lover😁
Traditional baseboard with intricately ornamented mouldings 💕💕 I love it 💕💕
There’s something for everyone 😉 👍
Please make another video like this but longer form, it's so sick 😫. Got the wife to agree to this instead of trim and I'd love this for our new build
That’s a great idea! We’ll see what we can do 😉
Looks great guys. Was the outlet at 0:20 the Design Mod one?
Great catch 👍 It is! We've got a video on how to install them here if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/IgxYyRVkSOc/w-d-xo.html
You don't have to "go ahead" - just do it. Nice project.
I love it. You should do a video with the no baseboard look!
Great idea! 😎👍
So did you add a plastic corner bead over the metal corner bead that was already there?
When the say "kerfed jambs" it means routing a notch on the jamb so a corner bead can lay in the notch (covering the gap b/w drywall and jamb) allowing you to pull the drywall up to the jamb and allowing for a no-trim / no-casing look. Is that what this is except you're doing drywall to floor instead of drywall to jamb or are those 2 completely different things?
Probably more different than similar in this case. With this type of look/design, all you’re really doing is cutting back the drywall to provide room for the decorative bead to fit between the drywall and whatever other surface it will be touching. There is no kerf to speak of, the bead sits on top of the drywall and simply butts up against the other surface (and thus there isn’t a ton of room for error). Hope that helps 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements thanks! How much extra time does that take vs traditional mud, caulk,base molding?
SOOO CLEAN!!!!
Appreciate that 👍
Hey mate! Love your work! I wondered if you had seen the “Invisible Baseboard” video and what your thoughts are on it?
What are your thoughts on removing the shadowline by using an L bead which sits 1-2mm off the FFL? You run the impact plaster to 5mm above the FFL, then bridge the gap with the L bead to create a very small shadowline that way it removed any possibility for capillary reaction from the floor?
Very beautiful!
Thank you bro for sharing ideas
Our pleasure!
Planning on doing this in our next property, but with the reveals higher and using an oak skirting board that sits flush beneath the reveal.
Can I ask how they are fixed to the wall?
Looks very nice, but doesn’t the Hardwood floor need an expansion gap?
Good question! It does- and it’s still got one (albeit a slightly smaller, more consistent gap than more installers would bother with). As long as its less than 3/4” it’ll be covered by the bead 👍
looks great! I am wondering where the Lbead and Fbead meet whether it would have looked better if it did carry on without terminating into the white Lbead...? Really like the look better than the 4 inch high reveal.
Great question- we debated running it the way you suggested, before ultimately landing on this look. We agree though, it would probably look great the other way too. Thanks for your interest!
You’ve said that you are using the 3/4” one, but I cannot find it on that size. Would you have the part number of the product you’ve user?
I really want to do this look, but I have just a small home improvement project and only need a few lengths of beads, everywhere I call will only send me a whole box. Any ideas where I could purchase single beads?
This can be tricky for sure. Best bet would be to find a distributor and go to them directly with the request. we know that the logistics of shipping large items (8 feet and up) is a nightmare for them, so to make it worth the trouble they need to send large quantities. Perhaps If you solve this problem by picking them up directly they’ll be more willing to help you out? Where are you located btw? If you’re near us we can suggest a distributor that might be able to help
Did you find where to buy it?
What specific brand paint and color did you use? Looks spot on with those white oak floors
What is the thickness of the reveal that was used in this video, they have different sizes?What was used looks really good.
Thanks! These are the 3/4” reveal F beads (stock number AS8730) 👍
Love all your vids on using beads instead of bulky baseboards or mouldings! Got me so excited about my own diy. Can I do this reveal beads on my painted drywall though? Do I just have to sand it down? Thanks!
Thanks! If I understand your question correctly, you should totally be able to add them to previously installed drywall- you’d just need to cut out a section the width of the reveal anywhere you’d be installing the beads. If you’re replacing baseboards with reveal beads, we recommend making sure your floors continue under the wall first (often floor installers will leave a gap that gets covered by baseboards/shoe moulding) 👍.
Can you keep strip lights in that gap?
Thats kind of nice but what about if water gets spilled wouldn't that mess up the subfloor? I would think normal baseboard and caulking would stop that more but i dont know. Also what about insulation part for lets say outside walls?
Vinyl will hold up to water much better than MDF or wood, and its not common practice (at least where we are) to caulk/silicone your baseboards to the floor (they need to be able to shift/move separately). Either way, the floor continues underneath the reveal beads in case that’s your concern. As far as insulation, this bead is applied on the drywall, and thus would be on top of any insulation you would require on an exterior wall (it also meets the floor the same way regular baseboard would). If drafts are an issue, it probably wouldn’t solve that issue, but baseboards aren’t really a solution either. Hope that helps!
Any chance you know who makes the flush pocket door frame?
Check out a company called EZY Concepts👍 tell them Refresh sent you!
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Thanks (EZ Concept I presume) :-)
The flooring was it glued with a 1/8 gap on the edges from the wall? Can these be achieved with LVP ? Flooring?
Great video! I’m doing a retrofit on an early 2000s colonial with 1/2 drywall in the master bathroom. I went with a 1/2” z reveal around the doors. I’m deciding on a 1/4” z for the base or a 1/2” f. I feel the 1/4” z would still allow for some imperfections because there’s still 1/4” behind the reveal. The 1/2” f reveal would also do this but what would look better? Traditional casing around doors is supposed to be more pronounced than the baseboard so I’m kinda thinking about it like that with the base reveal being a smaller z 1/4” with the z 1/2” around the doors. But I’ve never done it before so I would take your word. I’ve got to cut the bottom of the drywall all the way around anyway. Would you think the 1/4” z would make the walls look taller as well? Best regards friends!
Wow that’s an awesome idea! Good for you for going for it 👍 in our experience you’re always better off doing a mock up before you make any cuts on the real project. Set up a scrap piece of drywall with your idea of the smaller 1/4” reveal on the baseboard and 1/2” casing and bring it into the bathroom and see what you think! Let us know how it goes, we’d love to see pictures 😎👍
How do I retrofit this? Can I use a drywall knife + sand to height and then apply the F bead, and follow instructions as above?
You got it 👍. We’d recommend looking into a drywall cutout tool (like this one: amzn.to/3beOWx6)
If I want to change to vinyl floor
Do I have to install the vinyl floor first or I can do it after the trimming bead already installed ?
For this particular bead, you’ll have a lot more success if the floor is installed first. That’s not to say it couldn’t be done- but ideally the bead sits directly on top of the floor, and therefor there won’t be a ton of wiggle room to slide the new flooring underneath (especially if it’s not the same thickness as the whats already there). You might be left with either no room to slip the new floor in, or large gaps (if the new floor is thinner) 👍
What color of grey paint did you guys use? Looks amazing. Trying this out in my living room today.
Question ? Can you use this on bullnose corners?
Looks awesome! I hate trim and molding.
Does the F reveal hide enough gap for a floating floor?
Great video - love the modern feel. Does anyone have a sense of cost of this versus baseboard. Certainly the cost of the plastic trimtex must be less than oak base - but wondering of the labor increase in the reveal bead makes it a wash, or perhaps still more expensive than nice base.. Thx.
Good question! It's hard to say with so many variables, and it DEFINITELY depends on the installer (and if its a retrofit installation vs new construction)- but as a general guideline we'd suggest its most likely going to be more expensive than installing a basic baseboard, but closer to a wash compared to an ornate baseboard/shoe molding combo install 👍
What’s the difference between F and Z shadow beads? Also could you use a black paint instead of the grey? Why was grey chosen?
The main difference between the Z and the F bead, is that the F bead has a flap that covers the floor, while the Z doesn’t. This affords you some room for error when installing them over hardwood that requires a gap for expansion. As for the paint, you could paint the reveal any colour you want! We used grey because that’s what the designer wanted 👍
Do you know if there's any reason to use an F bead over a Z bead? Or are they always F beads for the reveal baseboards like this? Or are Z beads only used for flush baseboards?
Is this for sure 3/4" reveal? It seems Trim tex doesn't carry (anymore?) 3/4" x 1/2" F shadow beads
This was a while ago, so it’s possible that they either don’t make it in that size anymore (or we were mistaken and it’s actually a 5/8” reveal). We’ll have to check with Trim Tex, sorry for the confusion 👍
What tricks do you recommend for keeping the mud off the reveal portion of the bead? What are your thoughts on using a high gloss paint for the reveal? Just thinking for cleaning, that would be easiest. Much thanks!
Fortunately there is a raised lip before the reveal (the same as on their tear-away beads) that helps keep mud out of the reveal portion. Beyond that, you could always place a clean trowel IN the reveal as you’re skimming to further extend the lip (and as usual, keep a wet cloth/rag to wipe away any mistakes 😉). As for the high gloss, it could definitely look cool- just remember that the “gloss” works primarily when the light reflects off of the surface, and these reveals (also known as a shadow reveal) don’t get much light 💡👍.
Ive seen people wedge a piece of rope there while they mud and pull it out before it dries completely.
@@Jordan-dd5co that's actually what I ended up doing and it works perfectly! Just have to make sure the diameter of the rope = the width of the bead. So grateful for this video!
I ran brown painter tape inside along the bottom (glue edge to the outside on the flooring) them installed on 1/2” x 1/2” insulation foam tape inside the reveal (on top of the tape - kept the reveal perfectly clean. Tip: be sure to lightly sand along the top edge of the reveal to ‘break free’ any mud that gets on the face of the foam
Rope or backer rod work great!
h,i nice work, it looks nice ,, where can i get those beads ?? thank you
Thanks! The beads are made by Trim-tex, but we get all our stuff through CSR building supplies (csrbuilding.com)
Could I do this with tile floor?
Sure you could!
What spray adhesive product add you using to attach the trim? Are you also using staples?
It’s Trim-Tex 847 Spray Adhesive. Basically a high tack, pressure sensitive spray adhesive designed to work on vinyl. And yes, most of their older beads ask for glue and staples to secure them while the mud sets up. Hope that helps 👍
Is there a good video on demolishing and preparing the drywall to accept these F-beads? I'm not caught up on that
Great question! In this case, we built the space to accommodate the reveal beads- so there wasn’t any demolition/drywall removal etc. needed. But you’ve certainly given us a great idea for a future video though! There’s a little more info in the comments regarding things to think about when installing these beads retroactively, so be sure to check out some of the other comment threads👍
Another awesome product. Y'all find the coolest stuff. Thank you for the tips for installation. How is the durability and what type of paint did you use that will stand up to normal cleaning of the floors? Thank you as always for sharing😃
Happy to help! We hit it with two coats of Rust-Oleum’s Plastic Primer Spray (tinted grey) before a topcoat of Benjamin Moore Ulti-Matte in the final colour. If the top coat scratches off, the primer underneath is a close match (and the top coat can be easily re-applied with a q-tip or an artists brush).
Great video. I had to wait for my dogs to stop barking to watch it, though. Doorbell sound = bark! bark! bark! bark! bark! Goofy mutts!
😂 😂 we’ll keep that in mind for future sound effects 😉
Looks awesome! Would you be worried about installing the floor after the beads are installed? We already have the flooring on hand to get an accurate measurement for height, but I’m more worried about installing the last row of tongue and groove hardwood since it has to slip under the reveal. I suppose I could cut the tongue off the last row of boards and angle it under the wall first and glue it down? Thanks!
Great question 👍 it will certainly be more difficult to do it in that order, but that’s not to say it couldn’t be done. My best guess is that it will lead to more unexpected gaps between the reveal beads and the floor- but honestly we’ve never tried doing it that way, so we can’t say for sure. Please let us know how it goes!
How did it go? I haven’t laid my engineered hardwood yet and haven’t put in the reveal iether. I’m doing a refab on a early 2000s master bedroom. The drywall is too low for a reveal so I’ll have to cut off the bottom of the drywall about an inch all the way around in order for the reveal to fit with the hardwood. I was going to do a 1/4 z reveal instead of the f.
@@jvollbach I ended up installing the F bead after putting in the floors, and am glad I did. No matter how flat you think your floors are, you’d have high and low spots trying to install the f bead before the flooring. Also, the F bead needs the floor to rest on to keep it from moving back and forth to get the corners to align properly. I even had to use a small dab of silicone between the floor and F bead on some corners that weren’t square to get them to align.
@@jvollbach I also found that the 20V DEWALT atomic saw was the perfect height to lay the guard on the floor to cut away the drywall. I am, however, using the 5/8 bead and not the 3/4. You could make a jig pretty easily, though.
Matt, dude thanks for the speedy reply!! I will do the floors first to determine how much I need to cut from the drywall then! Now to figure out how I’m going to install this tongue n groove engineered hardwood to get the last row as close as possible to the wood behind the drywall with the drywall being there. It’s not like I’ll be able to fit it directly up against it because of the drywall which should leave enough room for alil expansion. I’m thinking I’m gunna staple down the hardwood then glue the last row in without a tongue. How is your last row liking the glue?
This is awesome. Trim-Tek F Reveal Beads AS8730 is vinyl. I thought the one you were using was aluminum? Thanks.
I can see why you thought that- but Nope. We pre-painted the white vinyl grey before installing 😉
Where can I buy these beads?
If my wood floors are a darker shade of gray and my walls are a very light gray, what color would be good for the reveal!?
These come in a white (vinyl) and I believe they’re also sold in an aluminum finish as well (which could look awesome). The good news is that you can paint them any colour you want- so the options are endless. Keep in mind that the shadow it creates will make the colour look darker than it really is. Going with the wall colour would be a safe place to start 👍
What do you do around doors? I'm going to do this in a bathroom reno
That’s awesome! Our application was a little more complicated because we didn’t use any casing around the door frame. If you’re installing them in a more traditional setting, you’ll have to decide what look you prefer. You could chose to terminate the reveal bead at the point where it meets the casing, or even an inch or two before. You could also run the reveal bead to the jamb and overlay your casing on top of it. Try a few different mock ups and do what you think looks best 👍.
Is it better to cut drywall before or after pouring self level concrete ?
An advantage of cutting it after would be that you’ll be able to get a more precise measurement for your cuts- but you could also do it before if you prefer (just make sure you account for the height of the self leveling) 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements thank you !!! btw great video
I'm interested in doing this for my new house build coming up this year. I'm going for a modern farm house look. Any tips on what I should look out for using this product?
That’s awesome! Make sure you’ve got a sharp blade with lots of teeth (preferably over 100) if you’re using a mitre saw, and use floor protection (for the adhesive spray). You’ll also go through a ton of staples 😉.
There’s something to be said for this style finishing instead of molding, especially baseboard. Back in the day people wanted baseboard molding to protect the drywall especially from vacuum cleaners, but with robotic vacuums, it’s less of a concern anymore
Great point 👍
no, they actually wanted to hide shotty carpentry work by slapping a baseboard over everything and caulking any gaps.
Without a baseboard, aren't you concerned with chipping -especially when using a vaccuum cleaner?
It’s always a slight concern, but the vinyl is extremely durable, and does not dent. The mud lip provides some protection, and any chips/dents in the drywall or mud would be easier to fix than a dent in wood anyways 👍.
You must have a special way of hanging pictures and other objects on your walls without damaging the drywall
i'm about to do this on my home reno. would you share the company you purchased your material from? looks awesome!
Definitely! These are Trim-Tex F Reveal Beads with a 3/4" reveal (stock number AS8730). We're in Toronto, and get all of our stuff through CSR building Supplies www.csrbuilding.com . Best of luck with your project!
Can this be done over existing drywall after removing baseboard, if I were to trim/sand it down?
Absolutely- but it depends on the situation. An issue you might run into is if your floor doesn’t continue underneath the drywall. Often floor installers leave a gap for expansion that gets covered by baseboard/shoe moulding. Because these reveal beads are flush with the drywall, they don’t provide any extra coverage when it comes to the floor. We knew we’d be installing these reveal beads in advance, so we had our flooring installer bring the boards closer to the studs to avoid this problem. You’ll want to check that before installing 😉
@@RefreshHomeImprovements What is the solution to the floors not running under the drywall. Do I have to add more flooring? Is there any other solution? Thanks
Is it possible to install it on a concrete wall?
Good question! We’ve never tried it (and can’t say for sure), but we don’t see a reason why it wouldn’t, other than that it would be incredibly difficult if the concrete is already set without a channel for the bead to sit in 🤷
@@RefreshHomeImprovements I agree, it would be challenging. I'll try it and let you know how it goes. Thank you for sharing!
In summary what is the installation order? Subfloor, then partitions frames, plasterboards leaving space for the profile, install the finished floor, install the profile and skim the plasterboards ?
love it
So do we 😉 👍
Looks awesome! Quick question, what method did you use for cutting out the drywall along the floor?
Very good question! For this application, we installed the drywall as we normally would, and then used our Makita XDS01Z cutout saw to remove the amount we needed. We got lucky in that running that tool on its side along the floor gave us the perfect cutout for the beads. You could also cut a piece of stock to the exact height and run an oscillating/multi tool on top of that (as long as your floors are flat 😉).
I’m confused, I have seen many types of flush skirtings.
Tile skirting
Gypsum skirting
MDF skirting
U shaped channel
F shaped channel (like the one you are using)
Do all roads lead to Rome?
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By far what you did is the most appalling to me but it’s quite expensive if I want to do it for all the walls in a house. I think it will cost as much as $10K (materials + installation)!
Is it realy waterproof?
Funny how “minimalism” is so much more complicated and expensive. It looks cool because it’s “different”, but baseboards and trim exist for a very functional reason.
I really like this but it looks like it would be a nightmare to keep clean.
1:45 how tf does that toilet work tho!?
That’s an in-wall toilet👍
a wildly impractical practice developed by Archi's for Galleries frequented by the rich who have weekly cleaning service in the 1st, 2nd & 3rd homes. this was already dated by 5-10yrs when this came out 4 yrs ago. but, you know, Home Depot figured they could commodify it and bilk the working class out of some retirement funds.
The reveal bead should go on first then the corner bead to overlap at the bottom
yes great look!...BUT....my drywaller tells me every time he has to bend down costs me big bucks....
lol thats good, we’re going to use that 😂
DIYer here...I was gonna do this to my house, but after we took out the baseboards, we found fairly huge gaps between the flooring and the wall...oh well
Sorry to hear that! It’s definitely a common problem when trying to do a renovation like this retroactively. This particular look needs some forethought for exactly that reason- most floor installs are not taken close to the framing to give room for expansion and contraction of the floor boards. Thanks for taking the time to write about your experience 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Thanks for the response! I think we're gonna end up going with a minimalist trim like a 5/8" square, instead of standard baseboards
Yes I also want to do this project, but was afraid the F reveal wouldn’t cover the gap for the floating floor.
Would still work for the ceiling tho.
Your gluing metal bead to mud? First off you don’t glue that type of bead. Second now that you already loaded the mud and are putting the bead on top, you have added a layer. You now have to float the mud at the bottom and it will flair it out. Alain now you have to go and mud it again.
🧐 The beads are made of vinyl. We painted them gray before install (not metal)
Looks like a major pain in the ass when it comes to cleaning.
I just can't say what I think of of this, I bet lowering your price and doing this thing would be just fn wonderful leave the floor guys a little mud for touch up the painter's will be more than happy to fix the rest .this should become the industry standard mabe even offer retro fit services and eliminate base trim make the greener and all that bullshit ,I don't know what drugs you are on but have at it bo iz ...
This new reveal bullcrap is horrible.
I don't know who came up with it but it's horrible. It's as if they are trying to limit carpentry. No moldings anywhere. Just looks like a mental home. The damage that all these corners are going to take ha ha ha It looks unfinished and cheap