La grasa de litio la uso para facilitar la extracción de tornillos y tuercas en un futuro mantenimiento. La grasa de litio evita que se forme óxido entre tuerca y tornillo.
On a cb500x 2019, you DON'T have to break the master link ( aka completely break apart your chain) if you're not replacing the chain and are trying to replace the rear sprocket. After loosening the axle bolt's nut on the right side and loosening the chain-tension locking nuts ( one on each side) that will enable you to slide the entire wheel forward enough to loose enough chain tension. Remove the axle bolt ( 11 ish inches long ), and you'll need to kind of faniggle with the rear brake assembly lifting it at a small angle as you're working on sliding towards you ( to the rear) the wheel as the while you're able to remove the chain from the rear wheel's sprocket little by little. When you're ready to reinstall the rear wheel, as you're feeding/putting the chain on the sprocket, start from the top, otherwise you won't be able to get it on as their is an L shaped ( kinda) piece that is welded to the swingarm frame on the left side that gets in the way otherwise. I just finished my project of going from front/rear of 15 tooth/41 tooth stock sprockets, to 16t/40t sprockets ( I wanted lower rpms at the 60+ mph range for slightly better mpg as mpg starts kind of tanking beyond the 4300 rpm range...., about halfway mark of rpm). Remember these torque values, per honda themselves: Rear sprocket nuts ...85 foot pounds of torque/pound feet of torque Rear axle nut ( on the right side )...65 Chain adjusting lock nut ..one per side of the bike = 20 ( it's the 12mm nut...the 10mm is for moving that long adjusting screw it is hard-attached to that literally presses against the square metal faceplate that the 11 ish inch long axle/bolt goes through) My bike has barely cleared the 3k miles mark and I have been riding it very gently/easily ( never been above 70mph and don't hamfist the throttle trying to beat everyone 0-60mph either..I want my vehicles to truly last). Thus for me, changing out the front sprocket and rear sprocket without replacing the chain is really not much of a wear-n -tear risk to the chain. I changed the front sprocket bearly 400 miles from changing, today, the rear stock = 15t front, 41t rear mine = 16t front, 40t rear I wanted alittle lower rpm at the 60+ mph range for slightly better gas mileage as gas mileage on this bike begins to dip more noticeably at above the 4300 rpm range ( love my 75+ mpg). Hope this helped someone. I imagine most of this is similar for the 2013 through 2020 models with possibly some minor differences. Contact honda power sports or google a service manual if you can to confirm the correct torque specs for your make and model bike.
I appreciate this video regardless as one day, it is inevitable that I must replace my chain ( hopefully not for another 12 to 20 more k miles).
Great video, very clear. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Great video.
Thanks! Glad it helped you.
What kind of center stand is that that you’re using?
What spray lube were you using? And did you loosen the rear brake caliper or did you keep every bolt tightened?
I am using lithium grease. No, I didn't loose the rear brake caliper. The brake pads will slide in again when installing the rear wheel
para que usas la grasa de litio?
La grasa de litio la uso para facilitar la extracción de tornillos y tuercas en un futuro mantenimiento. La grasa de litio evita que se forme óxido entre tuerca y tornillo.
On a cb500x 2019, you DON'T have to break the master link ( aka completely break apart your chain) if you're not replacing the chain and are trying to replace the rear sprocket.
After loosening the axle bolt's nut on the right side and loosening the chain-tension locking nuts ( one on each side) that will enable you to slide the entire wheel forward enough to loose enough chain tension. Remove the axle bolt ( 11 ish inches long ), and you'll need to kind of faniggle with the rear brake assembly lifting it at a small angle as you're working on sliding towards you ( to the rear) the wheel as the while you're able to remove the chain from the rear wheel's sprocket little by little.
When you're ready to reinstall the rear wheel, as you're feeding/putting the chain on the sprocket, start from the top, otherwise you won't be able to get it on as their is an L shaped ( kinda) piece that is welded to the swingarm frame on the left side that gets in the way otherwise.
I just finished my project of going from front/rear of 15 tooth/41 tooth stock sprockets, to 16t/40t sprockets ( I wanted lower rpms at the 60+ mph range for slightly better mpg as mpg starts kind of tanking beyond the 4300 rpm range...., about halfway mark of rpm).
Remember these torque values, per honda themselves:
Rear sprocket nuts ...85 foot pounds of torque/pound feet of torque
Rear axle nut ( on the right side )...65
Chain adjusting lock nut ..one per side of the bike = 20 ( it's the 12mm nut...the 10mm is for moving that long adjusting screw it is hard-attached to that literally presses against the square metal faceplate that the 11 ish inch long axle/bolt goes through)
My bike has barely cleared the 3k miles mark and I have been riding it very gently/easily ( never been above 70mph and don't hamfist the throttle trying to beat everyone 0-60mph either..I want my vehicles to truly last). Thus for me, changing out the front sprocket and rear sprocket without replacing the chain is really not much of a wear-n -tear risk to the chain. I changed the front sprocket bearly 400 miles from changing, today, the rear
stock = 15t front, 41t rear
mine = 16t front, 40t rear
I wanted alittle lower rpm at the 60+ mph range for slightly better gas mileage as gas mileage on this bike begins to dip more noticeably at above the 4300 rpm range ( love my 75+ mpg).
Hope this helped someone. I imagine most of this is similar for the 2013 through 2020 models with possibly some minor differences.
Contact honda power sports or google a service manual if you can to confirm the correct torque specs for your make and model bike.