Thanks for sharing. I put the good stuff in my transmission not long ago and it helped a lot but it still wasn't super great. I had no idea shift turret fluid was a thing but I just threw some in there and it feels even better now. Especially fixed the sticky/notchy feeling shifting into 2nd gear and 5th gear.
The transmission fluid change and the brass shifter collar helped out but I would say changing engine mounts was the greatest improvement. After I changed to Goodwin engine mounts the transmission and power delivery feel great.
It really works. I bought Valvoline but it was hard to shift from second to third gear. I just replaced Valvoline to Motorcraft oil. Now I can shift smoothly between gears. Motocraft is more expensive than other brands but it is worth it. I have a NC 2007, GT 6 speed.
There is so much conflicting information out there about this. Some say the 5-speed NC has turret oil but the 6-speed NC does not have or require turret oil. Some say there is absolutely no need to mess with the turret oil, while other swear that changing or topping it off has made all the difference in the world. I wish there was direct Mazda information/guidance on the topic.
FYI: 80-230ml for 6 speed, 290-330ml for 5 speed - that's what it says in the manual. It is mentioned in the section dedicated to gearbox removal where you have to remove the shifter itself and it is most likely that the oil will spill and will need to be replaced. I can only assume that the oil change procedure is simplified to the main section since most of the work and wear happens there.
You don't need to remove the four bolts on the cross member. Only remove the two on the right side of the car. Loosen the two on the left side and the cross member will slip out.
I use those 3'x5' mats from Home Depot under my car, too. They're about 20 bucks each with tax. BUT unless it's a zillion degrees outside I use them upside down. Any drips, etc. clean off the back side rubber very easily. Don't leave oil or fluids on the mat too long as the rubber will start to absorb it. Still very comfy to lie on (OK, not the most important thing) and cleaning drips or spills from out of the top side is a major hassle.
Shavings on the drain plug magnet is normal, dude...has nothing to do with good or bad shifting. Damn good idea somebody came up with though so the metallic particles are kept from going back through the gears over and over.
For that pain in the ass clip that u need to access the turret, i just use a small flatblade to push the legs that lock it in place out the way to get it off
So you took out 70 ml from the turret and added back in over 200? What happens to the fluid in there, does it dry up, leak out or what? Does anyone know?
I just changed m8ne 8n the 6 speed NC1. there was NONE in there I put a fair bit in and now (straight away) any notchy Ness has gone. Its like butter!!!. It just kept on taking the oil so I will pull the gearbox level plug again just incase its gone in there
It's a lamin-x taillight tint. Basically a adhesive vinyl you paste on. It's fine but you'll want to take it off before it gets too old (lasts 3-4years). I just got done trying to remove mine and it was a nightmare. The vinyl comes off in pieces and the adhesive needs some serious elbow grease to come off of the taillights. Had mine for a total of 7 years. they started to fade and look bad by 5-6 years.
@@meremortalsammy4580 augh, sounds nasty..but anyway, 3-4 years is pretty decent, maybe a little elbow grease is worth the effort. That and maybe some heat and some isopropyl to take it down easily.
My car is too low to jack up the front so I usually rely on the pinch welds. They’re plastic notches I usually follow. That’s how I get 4 jack stands underneath. Chock the front tires and you can lift just the rear of the car by using the differential as a jack point.
Can you let me know which section of the manual mentions this maintenance for the shifter turret? Specifically the 80-230mL that is mentioned. Thank you so much
I followed some posts on miata.net I don’t have the links but doing some research on the site will show others writing their procedures for the shifter turret.
@@meremortalsammy4580 I have seen countless write ups and even videos of the procedure, I am just shocked that Mazda does not mention it anywhere. Along with the fact that even long time mechanics are unaware of this maintenance. Not exactly sure what to make of all that.. guess its specific to NC1 owners.
Thanks for the video, I speak italian and a understand a bit of english but not too much ahahah, what did you do inside the car? Isn't enough to go under the car to change transmission oil? Thanks
No problem, Inside the car I changed the shifter turret oil. Which is separate from the transmission oil. So the transmission and the shifter turret do not share oil. They use the same type oil but you need to change both.
The BG synthetic gear oil is better, pull out shifter and fill almost to 1" from top of trans. Replace your shifter bushing with a brass bushing. Will feel like "new"
In the turrent where is this fill line, how did you know its full? Do you have to keep track of how much oil you put in or just watch the full line? What if you overfilled?
I got mine from local ford dealership for around $24 a quart. Priced around $30 originally but he gave me a pretty good discount because he felt bad it was so expensive compared to similar oils. Nice guy. No shipping to deal with.
Great video, thanks! Changing the engine mounts improved your gear changes? Are the stock mounts too hard or too soft or??? Or we're your mounts bad from oil? Id love to hear more, TIA!
I’m retrospect changing the oil was helpful but after changing to the engine mounts it was probably the source of the problem. Way better results as far as gear changing goes. After getting the AWR mounts I think the stock mounts are soft, but be warned the vibration and dash rattle from the AWR mounts might drive you crazy. So for normal street driving the stock mount is good.
I wish I could help you but I’ve only worked on my 2006 MX-5 6-speed manual transmission. 2001 is a totally different generation from mine and the oil I used on this video is only for manual transmission cars. Try going to the forums on miata.net Sorry!
MereMortalSammy ... Thank you for your reply. This transmission is so uncommon for this year Miata because it was a $900 add on and who prefers an automatic over manual unless only convenience. I couldn’t pass it up though with only 94k miles for a 2001 LoL
MereMortalSammy I found an Aisin ATF and also Royal Purple ATF that is supposedly right and is $16 a quart LoL oh well gotta do what you gotta do! Since I am doing this myself I am going for the good shit
Read somewhere on a forum the system is open so the fluid from the trans "splashes back" into the turret and vice versa. Honestly dude I keep hearing conflicting stories about if its open or if its isolated. They say that's the reason why its always empty when we open it up.
Oh I understand now, yeah I've read conflicting stuff too. Before I made this video I remember reading on miata.net the reason we should put Motorcraft Fluid in the turret is because we do not have that type of system where it is open from turret to transmission. Also, after doing this I'm sure of it now that we don't. You can actually fill up the turret and Mazda has a recommended amount for the turret after further research. Thanks for the question, I'm sure others have thought about that as well.
Still working great, actually ever since I did this I haven't grinded any gears. Before I would get random grinds shifting into gears even when my foot was pushed all the way on the clutch.
It's all anecdotal but most people swear by the motorcraft. It's the only one I've read ever actually helping and in my case it did. Although, since this video has came out I've changed my motor mounts and shifting has been significantly improved. Way better than any fluid change.
I tried Redline synthetic, but it allowed occasional grinding from 1st to second and 3rd to 5th. I later replaced it with the Motorcraft OEM fluid and it definitely improved the shifting and eliminated any grinding.@@eyeguy511
8.00 mins; No engine oil change demo?..I need to know if someone has a way of carrying out that job without filter oil dripping onto the crossmember and spreading out like a drip rail?
Sorry didn't want to side track the video with a engine oil change. Use the chrisfix method and put aluminum foil over the crossmember. The oil will fall on the foil and run down into the pan.
Use some tin foil and shape it along the outer edge of the filter housing so that when you unscrew the filter, the oil drips down onto the foil (which protects the crossmember) and then flows into your oil catch pan
@@kevinbubar9399 Thank you, I can't visualise it at the moment but I've copied and pasted your advice for future reference when I'm under the car. My block paving thanks you in advance. Cheers.
All good, yeah Ford Motorcraft is the name of the brand from Ford. Although it is a Mazda many of the NC parts were produced by Ford. If you take a look at your transmission it will say FoMoCo, for Ford Motor Company.
@@LA_Commander yeah I know they were joined. The mtx75 tranny is what I have in my ford focus zts.. the mazda transmission pretty sure is different. GL5 is what is recommended in the diff.
Just changed my turret oil thanks to this video. My car now shifts like new. Thank you sir!
Glad this video is still helping NC owners out!
Thank you so much for making this video. I can never find NC maintenance videos, especially not any done as well as this one.
Thanks for sharing. I put the good stuff in my transmission not long ago and it helped a lot but it still wasn't super great. I had no idea shift turret fluid was a thing but I just threw some in there and it feels even better now. Especially fixed the sticky/notchy feeling shifting into 2nd gear and 5th gear.
The transmission fluid change and the brass shifter collar helped out but I would say changing engine mounts was the greatest improvement. After I changed to Goodwin engine mounts the transmission and power delivery feel great.
It really works. I bought Valvoline but it was hard to shift from second to third gear. I just replaced Valvoline to Motorcraft oil. Now I can shift smoothly between gears. Motocraft is more expensive than other brands but it is worth it.
I have a NC 2007, GT 6 speed.
Love my 2012 NC!! Great Video, do more.
Thanks, you betcha!
There is so much conflicting information out there about this. Some say the 5-speed NC has turret oil but the 6-speed NC does not have or require turret oil. Some say there is absolutely no need to mess with the turret oil, while other swear that changing or topping it off has made all the difference in the world. I wish there was direct Mazda information/guidance on the topic.
FYI: 80-230ml for 6 speed, 290-330ml for 5 speed - that's what it says in the manual. It is mentioned in the section dedicated to gearbox removal where you have to remove the shifter itself and it is most likely that the oil will spill and will need to be replaced. I can only assume that the oil change procedure is simplified to the main section since most of the work and wear happens there.
You don't need to remove the four bolts on the cross member. Only remove the two on the right side of the car. Loosen the two on the left side and the cross member will slip out.
I use those 3'x5' mats from Home Depot under my car, too. They're about 20 bucks each with tax. BUT unless it's a zillion degrees outside I use them upside down. Any drips, etc. clean off the back side rubber very easily. Don't leave oil or fluids on the mat too long as the rubber will start to absorb it. Still very comfy to lie on (OK, not the most important thing) and cleaning drips or spills from out of the top side is a major hassle.
Be sure to use new crush washers on the plugs.
Shavings on the drain plug magnet is normal, dude...has nothing to do with good or bad shifting. Damn good idea somebody came up with though so the metallic particles are kept from going back through the gears over and over.
For that pain in the ass clip that u need to access the turret, i just use a small flatblade to push the legs that lock it in place out the way to get it off
So you took out 70 ml from the turret and added back in over 200? What happens to the fluid in there, does it dry up, leak out or what? Does anyone know?
I just changed m8ne 8n the 6 speed NC1. there was NONE in there I put a fair bit in and now (straight away) any notchy Ness has gone. Its like butter!!!. It just kept on taking the oil so I will pull the gearbox level plug again just incase its gone in there
nice maintenance video, but I have to ask: what are the tail lights that you have installed? or they're just some pvc foil over the original? Thanks!
It's a lamin-x taillight tint. Basically a adhesive vinyl you paste on. It's fine but you'll want to take it off before it gets too old (lasts 3-4years). I just got done trying to remove mine and it was a nightmare. The vinyl comes off in pieces and the adhesive needs some serious elbow grease to come off of the taillights. Had mine for a total of 7 years. they started to fade and look bad by 5-6 years.
@@meremortalsammy4580 augh, sounds nasty..but anyway, 3-4 years is pretty decent, maybe a little elbow grease is worth the effort. That and maybe some heat and some isopropyl to take it down easily.
Excellent video. Thank you
Is there a ford part number for the fluid?
so turret oil and transmission oil is two different things ?
No, they're the same
Love the video, finally gonna do this to my nc. Unfortunately, it was $37 a quart for me, so you got a bargain :)
Wow $37 a quart...I would of put off this project for a couple of more years lol. Thanks for making me feel better about my $27 a quart!
Thanks for the video, gonna tackle this next week on my '06. Any tips for getting it on the 4 jack stands?
My car is too low to jack up the front so I usually rely on the pinch welds. They’re plastic notches I usually follow. That’s how I get 4 jack stands underneath. Chock the front tires and you can lift just the rear of the car by using the differential as a jack point.
Can you let me know which section of the manual mentions this maintenance for the shifter turret? Specifically the 80-230mL that is mentioned. Thank you so much
I followed some posts on miata.net
I don’t have the links but doing some research on the site will show others writing their procedures for the shifter turret.
@@meremortalsammy4580 I have seen countless write ups and even videos of the procedure, I am just shocked that Mazda does not mention it anywhere. Along with the fact that even long time mechanics are unaware of this maintenance. Not exactly sure what to make of all that.. guess its specific to NC1 owners.
Thanks for the video, I speak italian and a understand a bit of english but not too much ahahah, what did you do inside the car? Isn't enough to go under the car to change transmission oil? Thanks
No problem, Inside the car I changed the shifter turret oil. Which is separate from the transmission oil. So the transmission and the shifter turret do not share oil. They use the same type oil but you need to change both.
@@meremortalsammy4580 i didn't know this, in the italians forum i didn't read this, thanks a lot!
The BG synthetic gear oil is better, pull out shifter and fill almost to 1" from top of trans. Replace your shifter bushing with a brass bushing. Will feel like "new"
In the turrent where is this fill line, how did you know its full? Do you have to keep track of how much oil you put in or just watch the full line? What if you overfilled?
Wonder if you can get this from a dealership
I think you can, I usually give my local dealer a call if I need a specific item.
Dealership told me $50 a quart I got mine on carid for $17 a quart
I got mine from local ford dealership for around $24 a quart. Priced around $30 originally but he gave me a pretty good discount because he felt bad it was so expensive compared to similar oils. Nice guy. No shipping to deal with.
Great video, thanks!
Changing the engine mounts improved your gear changes? Are the stock mounts too hard or too soft or???
Or we're your mounts bad from oil? Id love to hear more, TIA!
I’m retrospect changing the oil was helpful but after changing to the engine mounts it was probably the source of the problem. Way better results as far as gear changing goes. After getting the AWR mounts I think the stock mounts are soft, but be warned the vibration and dash rattle from the AWR mounts might drive you crazy. So for normal street driving the stock mount is good.
Very good vid!
What type of fluid would I use on my 2001 Mazda Miata MX-5 AUTOMATIC transmission (Aisin Warner 4-speed automatic transmission 03-72LE)
I wish I could help you but I’ve only worked on my 2006 MX-5 6-speed manual transmission.
2001 is a totally different generation from mine and the oil I used on this video is only for manual transmission cars.
Try going to the forums on miata.net
Sorry!
MereMortalSammy ... Thank you for your reply. This transmission is so uncommon for this year Miata because it was a $900 add on and who prefers an automatic over manual unless only convenience. I couldn’t pass it up though with only 94k miles for a 2001 LoL
MereMortalSammy I found an Aisin ATF and also Royal Purple ATF that is supposedly right and is $16 a quart LoL oh well gotta do what you gotta do! Since I am doing this myself I am going for the good shit
DebraLynnP it will tell you in the owners handbook
mightytoast I don’t have the owner handbook but I am sure I can download the pdf.... thank you
I thought the shifter turret worked on a spashback mechanism
I honestly have no clue what a spashback mechanism is.
Read somewhere on a forum the system is open so the fluid from the trans "splashes back" into the turret and vice versa. Honestly dude I keep hearing conflicting stories about if its open or if its isolated. They say that's the reason why its always empty when we open it up.
Oh I understand now, yeah I've read conflicting stuff too. Before I made this video I remember reading on miata.net the reason we should put Motorcraft Fluid in the turret is because we do not have that type of system where it is open from turret to transmission. Also, after doing this I'm sure of it now that we don't. You can actually fill up the turret and Mazda has a recommended amount for the turret after further research.
Thanks for the question, I'm sure others have thought about that as well.
Update on this? Is it really shifting better? How much oil did you put inside the transmission? Thank you.
Still working great, actually ever since I did this I haven't grinded any gears. Before I would get random grinds shifting into gears even when my foot was pushed all the way on the clutch.
I used Amsoil Synthetic Transmission fluid SAE 75W90 API GL4. Didn’t seem to help much. Maybe there is something special about the Motorcraft oil.?..
It's all anecdotal but most people swear by the motorcraft. It's the only one I've read ever actually helping and in my case it did. Although, since this video has came out I've changed my motor mounts and shifting has been significantly improved. Way better than any fluid change.
I tried Redline synthetic, but it allowed occasional grinding from 1st to second and 3rd to 5th. I later replaced it with the Motorcraft OEM fluid and it definitely improved the shifting and eliminated any grinding.@@eyeguy511
8.00 mins; No engine oil change demo?..I need to know if someone has a way of carrying out that job without filter oil dripping onto the crossmember and spreading out like a drip rail?
Sorry didn't want to side track the video with a engine oil change.
Use the chrisfix method and put aluminum foil over the crossmember. The oil will fall on the foil and run down into the pan.
@@meremortalsammy4580 Thanks for the swift reply.
Use some tin foil and shape it along the outer edge of the filter housing so that when you unscrew the filter, the oil drips down onto the foil (which protects the crossmember) and then flows into your oil catch pan
@@kevinbubar9399 Thank you, I can't visualise it at the moment but I've copied and pasted your advice for future reference when I'm under the car. My block paving thanks you in advance. Cheers.
Feelz good.
Stupid question incoming - Ford Motorcraft is the name of the company? umm its a mazda lol
All good, yeah Ford Motorcraft is the name of the brand from Ford. Although it is a Mazda many of the NC parts were produced by Ford. If you take a look at your transmission it will say FoMoCo, for Ford Motor Company.
The car has lot of ford stuff on it, the engine is a Duratec ford engine (joint venture engine with Mazda - mazda l engine)
@@LA_Commander i thought only the engine was ford? I use redline MTL in the transmission, its readily available on amazon and it works well.
@@LA_Commander yeah I know they were joined. The mtx75 tranny is what I have in my ford focus zts.. the mazda transmission pretty sure is different. GL5 is what is recommended in the diff.
@@LA_Commander my mechanic said gl-4 gl-5 same pretty much though