Thanks for the video - very helpful! You had to jack the car pretty high up it appears. What jack did you use? I don’t think my current floor Jack’s goes up that high.
Thanks for the video, very informative! I'm getting the same throw out bearing noise in my car with 127k miles. I've heard that the rear main seal rarely gives out. I would have done that as one of the "while you're in there" items. The trans tunnel heat shield is another thing I would have addressed. Although the OEM one is quite expensive.
Thank you! I’ve also heard the rear main seal rarely gives out so I decided not to mess with it. DEI makes a kit for the tunnel heat shield for the NC. It’s probably better than OEM.
This job looks like a piece of cake compared to NA/NB. That PPF comes off so easily instead of being sandwiched. Thanks for the vid! That being said my RMS is leaking. Thought a 12k mile 2.5 rms wouldn't leak, was wrong
Removing the trans is about 2 hours. And if you have all the right tools and is doing everything correctly, around 8-10 hours for the whole job but I would allocate a full weekend in case anything goes wrong.
My nc2 does the same eversince i have change the clutch, and is still does after 10000 km. If you gave it a little more time it gets better, but never away.
thanks for the vid. did the shudder resolve after break in period? i just installed the same clutch in my nc1, and getting shudders when moving from standstill, followed service manual for installation. could it be something missed during install or we just have to live with it?
The shudders from standstill didn’t really go away. It shudders when the car is cold but it gets much better to the point where I don’t feel it once the car is all warmed up. I’ve tracked it a few times and it’s been holding up fine I will just live with it. YMMV.
Clutch rattle is normal for a race style clutch like this. I have a G35 with a stage 2 clutch and it rattles too. It judders when too little hard and a lot of clutch is given. It also has a light weight flywheel which exacerbates the issue. Nothing bad, just something to get used to.
No it didn’t go away. I just try not to slip the clutch too much or just give it a little more gas in 1st gear. It usually is worse when the car is cold and then it gets a bit better after driving it for while. I’ve also tracked it twice so far and everything seems to be holding up.
You didn’t measure the pilot bearing before removal and I did not see you mark your driveshaft before removal. That is more than likely the cause of your shudder. Your issue was a bearing noise only on a cold start before acceleration. Your pilot bearing had probably gone out of spec, but your new pilot bearing needs to be at the same depth as the old one, and your driveshaft orientation also has to be the same as when removed.
Just like you i did it on jackstands. Never again i tell myself 😂
Thanks for the video - very helpful! You had to jack the car pretty high up it appears. What jack did you use? I don’t think my current floor Jack’s goes up that high.
Thanks for the video, very informative! I'm getting the same throw out bearing noise in my car with 127k miles. I've heard that the rear main seal rarely gives out. I would have done that as one of the "while you're in there" items. The trans tunnel heat shield is another thing I would have addressed. Although the OEM one is quite expensive.
Thank you! I’ve also heard the rear main seal rarely gives out so I decided not to mess with it.
DEI makes a kit for the tunnel heat shield for the NC. It’s probably better than OEM.
Seems like the throwout bearing gives out quicker than clutches on the NC.
This job looks like a piece of cake compared to NA/NB. That PPF comes off so easily instead of being sandwiched. Thanks for the vid! That being said my RMS is leaking. Thought a 12k mile 2.5 rms wouldn't leak, was wrong
Thank you for making this l video. How long did it take to remove the transmission and how long was the overall project?
Removing the trans is about 2 hours. And if you have all the right tools and is doing everything correctly, around 8-10 hours for the whole job but I would allocate a full weekend in case anything goes wrong.
were you able to fix the clutch chatter? I'm having the same issue with my new clutch kit
My nc2 does the same eversince i have change the clutch, and is still does after 10000 km.
If you gave it a little more time it gets better, but never away.
thanks for the vid. did the shudder resolve after break in period? i just installed the same clutch in my nc1, and getting shudders when moving from standstill, followed service manual for installation. could it be something missed during install or we just have to live with it?
The shudders from standstill didn’t really go away. It shudders when the car is cold but it gets much better to the point where I don’t feel it once the car is all warmed up. I’ve tracked it a few times and it’s been holding up fine I will just live with it. YMMV.
Clutch rattle is normal for a race style clutch like this. I have a G35 with a stage 2 clutch and it rattles too. It judders when too little hard and a lot of clutch is given. It also has a light weight flywheel which exacerbates the issue. Nothing bad, just something to get used to.
Like your new hair style.
Looks handsome!
Well done vid. about to replace my wife's clutch etc. thanks
All my bell housing bolts are out my transmission wont break free. Was yours difficult?
How was this resolved? If at all?
Question, where did you get that hardtop at?
Did the judder resolve over time?
No it didn’t go away. I just try not to slip the clutch too much or just give it a little more gas in 1st gear. It usually is worse when the car is cold and then it gets a bit better after driving it for while. I’ve also tracked it twice so far and everything seems to be holding up.
Torque specs on the 11 bolts on the bell housing?
@@MannyMX5 should be 28-38 ft bs
You didn’t measure the pilot bearing before removal and I did not see you mark your driveshaft before removal. That is more than likely the cause of your shudder. Your issue was a bearing noise only on a cold start before acceleration. Your pilot bearing had probably gone out of spec, but your new pilot bearing needs to be at the same depth as the old one, and your driveshaft orientation also has to be the same as when removed.
Those’re valid points!
how would you fix this after the fact?
wow~!!
PPF is Power Plant Frame, right?
Yes