Buy the Anycubic Photon Mono X 6Ks Here: geni.us/MonoX6Ks Amazon: amzn.to/3OG6e6x (This and all Amazon links in our video description are affiliate links. Clicking these and making any purchase will earn us a commission from Amazon at no cost to you) Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions th-cam.com/video/Gm0-z971tgY/w-d-xo.html) Join this channel to get access to perks: th-cam.com/channels/_9Jsf3SP8aMJgn0xv5jHjA.htmljoin Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer
Between this and the Halot Mage non pro which would you pick if both where 350 including tax and shipping? I can't make my mind! Thanks for the amazing video!
I recently upgraded from the PhotonS to the Mono X 6Ks. The fine printing is way better than I am use to. However, the are things I love the PhotonS and wish the 6 Ks had. I may be getting a little picky, but here are the things I think the older PhotonS was better with over the 6 Ks: 1) The PhotonS had the square arm bar. I could the build plate 90 degrees and put it back on. This let the extra resin on the build plate drip down(fairly fast) into the resin pan. You can't do that with the 6 Ks. Maybe I can make an arm attachment to do this again. 2) The 6 Ks build plate top is fairly flat compared to the PhotoS's. The steeper build plate top on the PhotonS helped the resin drip off into the pan below. 3) I miss the three fixed sides and lift-up front on the PhotonS. The 6 Ks top has to be set aside somewhere and I don't have a lot of room. 4) The resin pan hold down screws on the 6 Ks are a pain, since you need to completely unscrew them to get the pan out versus just loosening them up on the PhotonS.
I just got mine because of this video! It's amazing. Sadly it's been to cold on the west coast U.S as of late so I've just been printing exposure tests but honestly even at 58°F it's working nice in my garage.
I've been using it for about a month. I only had experience with a Formlabs DLP printer before and changing over to this one was super easy, and I would argue way easier to use. Been using clear, water washable resin and the models look incredible. The fact that its a DLP looks promising for setting up a farm too.
I have both the 6Ks and the M5s and though both printers are awesome, the 6Ks is nowhere near as good as the M5s. I will often print duplicates of the same pieces to both printers since I am still learning to paint. I have both printers calibrated extremely well and am using the exact same resin in both. The M5s consistently prints better than the 6Ks and with less fails. Don't get me wrong, the 6Ks is great and I don't regret for a moment purchasing it. But in the end, the M5s is the clear winner.
Are you Happy with the m5s? Because of Ross reviews, I have cancelled my preorder and ordered the Saturn3 . I am very happy with it, but i wanted to try out the features of the m5s, and iam happy, that i dont have issues with that feature but iam sad that i can't try them out
@@kypdurron6168Very happy with my M5s. I did abandon the ACF after using up a bottle of High Speed Resin because I really don't need the speed, especially since you have to print at 100 mu (0.1mm). I usually print at 50mu. The only time I have failed prints are when I screw up the supports. Being a noob at resin printing, that happens quite often. Also, the Anycubic app works flawlessly.
I pulled the trigger on one of these and a wash and cure plus 8 days ago.. Despite no youtube reviews existing when I dropped my coin on it.. Mines due to arrive tomorrow and its my first resin printer.. My main use will be for parts and components for various projects rather than models, looking forward to setting this up now.
@@DemonIgnis Unless you're willing to spend well over double the price, buy the 6Ks. It's solid, reliable and prints fine enough for miniatures. Only complaints I have are the build plate mounting is kinda awkward and the Anycubic slicer supports leave more pockmarks than other slicers. You can just use Chitubox to fix the slicer problem and the first problem is a mild inconvenience at worst. Not much incentive to buy better than this as you'll have to learn the basics of 3d printing with any printer besides the horribly expensive Heygears printer.
Thanks for this review. With your TitanForge studio vid and their use of the 6ks in their print room, and this review had me sold. Was able to get one from Anycubic Australia for $304 AUD or BASICALLY $202 USD.👍
thanks again for another great review! the Mono X 6Ks looks tempting, and the price is nice, but i think im still gonna hold off a bit on purchasing any printers
I'm holding of for 1,5 years already :D sometimes you just have to pull the trigger. Was a very hard decision between the Elegoo Mars 4 Max (tempered glass protector...) and this, but Faux's video, the dual rail, +50mm height, and the 4 point build plate leveling won the race for me. Hope I won't breach the LCD screen anytime soon :D
I have a M5 standard and its been flawless. Though, I don’’t print miniatures. 1:6 and 1:4 is my preferred scales. Also, Anycubic’s slicer is a long way off from Chitubox and Lychee. That’s just a silly statement.
That’s good to know. I print at those scales too. I have a Photon M3 and it’s been great but I’m looking for something bigger. Maybe I’ll just go for the standard M5.
fast print madness is even raiding resin printers, and this one stands besides it looks gorgeous. 34 micron prints are a lot more better than standard resin ones, and reachable price.. it's a good deal
Hey brother I just wanna say thank u for this video an review on the x6ks I just bought one myself an I'm fairly new at 3d printin but when i bought it i didnt know if i got a good one or not an also better then the m5 which i still havent done any prints on it yet aint got my clean an cure machine too clean my prints with yet but glad too know I chose the best one lol thank u five star review
Thanks for the video, I've just ordered this via your link so I hope you get your cut! I was originally considering the M5/s but this should be best for my needs and be a bit cheaper. Thanks
Been eyeing this one. for a while I guess it is time to pull the trigger. Thanks for the great review. Any way to get the US sponsor links moving forward. Would like to give credit for the purchase where credit is due
I have both the 6Ks and Mono X2 and I can guarantee the difference is minor even with minis, both of them are high-quality printers and even the 12-micron difference between the both isn't that noticeable! Mono X2 is a 48 Microns while the 6KS is 34
Just had an OG Photon die on me. No screens to be found, so here I am. With a glowing review from you, and it being on sale right now, I put this (and a spare screen) in my cart. Now I'm seeing you say it's End of Life? I thought this was about one year old at this point. Is that standard turn around now? Also, Amazon AND Anycubic have replacement screens for sale.
Oh, when I looked literally yesterday, no screens. Maybe that was the UK site. But you did the right thing. Get a spare screen because they’ll be fine at some point. And based on nothing but Anycubics history. They’ll be gine before we expect it. I hope I’m wrong and they have gotten better. I’m just covering my ass
I didn't press go yet, just put them in the cart. I like Anycubic, and $240 (at time of posting) is hard to beat. Is it worth it to go to the M7 for another $100?
I just got this printer to replace my old Saturn S. Its on sale right now for $289 plus a $25 coupon , so I took the plunge to try it out. I hope its as good as you say.
Congratulations for the channel, great job! I'm a dentist and what I value the mostly is sharpness and precision in print quality. Between this Anycubic Photon mono X 6ks and de Elegoo Saturn 3, which one do you think would suit me better?
@fauxhammer Not sure if anyone has pointed this out yet but you have incorrectly calculated the micron size, firstly the axis you stated is 5790 pixels is actually 5760. Also neither 5760 or 5790/195.84=34 nor does 3600/122.4=34 This printer actually has a micron size of 29.4
Is this printer better than the X2? I noticed on their website that the X2 is "originally"priced higher, so I was curious if their is a big difference in the two?
@@FauxHammer question for you. i plan on running anti aliasing. should i over shoot and go for a 20 something micron printer in attempts to preserve some fine detail?
@@rmfberry261 Well,what Antoiailiasing helps with is smoothing the edges, when you have smaller pixels, you should not need as much antiailiasing. But anything below 35 um is normally ok with 2xaa and 32x image blur. anything above this like 45 or 50 microns you would be bestter with higher AA When you get down to 20, I still feel that 2xaa and blur is the sweet spot to sogften out every single voxel line. the difference in quality at that level, really isn't muc.
7:33 why the hell are you pouring the resin on the top of the print bed? That's by far the easiest way to, not only add bubbles to the resin, but make a hell of a mess too.
So I am looking at buying this machine as a way into the field of Resin printing. I just need this printer and the wash and cure right? On Anycubic's site there's a list of add-ons which I don't need? Looking to print Dredge marines and 40k scale stuff if it helps.
Yes I'm wondering the same thing! Watching from 09:15 . When you say "build quality here seems better too", do u mean the elegoo or the anycubic?@@FauxHammer
i received the oversized protector and i thinnk i remove the upper layer of another one that was there ?? so i did end up with adding a doubble protector and this one is all over the place it is so larger from the screen that i end up with imposible bubbles to removes on the screens seams....dang do i remove it ? was there a second one on there
hi! great video, Just a question here, r u saying that this printer is better than the M5 series because this one is build with better materials? but in terms of microns, the M5 delivers 20 microns against 30 microns on this one, in that terms m5 is better? thanks! I am a new subscriber!
Sand the build plate. Nothing sticks to shiny, so if your build plate is perfectly smooth, use sand paper on it to rough it up. You'll increase the surface area for the resin to adhere to but about 10x.
No. This is end of life and based on other comments I don’t think you can still get replace screens for this, even now whilst it’s in sale. It’s good and if budget is your main concern. Go with it. But it’s probably gonna be a case of, once it dies. It’s done.
I didn't find this info anywhere but can you clarify if Anti aliasing work Mono 6ks? If work, is it both on chitubox or only Photon workshop? Thank you.
but the screenprotector they fournish is different from that is applied (much larger) now that i have changed the screenprotector all my print fail! zero leveling again but no effect
I wonder how can it produce better results than the M5 as it has larger pixel size and lower contrast ratio (by the datasheet). Maybe the lack of forced anti-aliasing? The build quality seems better for sure. Unfortunately it has somewhat smaller build area. I don't know why people despise the Photon Workshop that much. I'm using it without any issues or major inconveniences. It lost some features from the last version though. The "save scene" function just disappeared (like WTF?) and while the automatic support generating method got much better, the manual editing or placement of them got somewhat weird. In the old version you just saw where will they be placed in real time, while now it generates them at once when you're done with the editing.
Photon workshop is ok. I use Lychee to support and PW to slice. Occasionally, the 6ks will give a bad file error part way through the print causing the print to fail with files sliced with lychee. So I use PW to slice. My only gripe is it so dang sloooooow. Probably because it doesn't support GPU acceleration. Saving the sliced file is just as bad also. I'd hate to try and slice a full build plate at 12k with PW. It would take half a day. EDIT: Just updated to PW 3.2.1 and the slow slicing issue seems to have fixed. Good news. I do actually have another gripe with PW. The lack of being able to set independent lift and retract distances. As it is now D0 and D1 are used for both lift and retract values. Increases the print time by 2 seconds per layer as it is now with my resin profile.
yep. RERF feature (Resin Exposure Range Finder). some other printers have had some odd hack methods to simulate this, but it's janky and requires different exposures of each layer without a plate move. you would need to code it yourself.
Why do people want a Halot Mage, I have no idea who is recommending that trash. AS for Masr 4 Max or X6kS, get whatever si cheaper, the do the same thing at the same quality. Saturn 3 is much better than those.
Well, resin is always more responsible for sharpness than any printer. But I use a resin which is intentionally quite sharp to show off the best the printer can do with more realistically used resins
Currently have a photon mono x, I’m thinking about getting this printer, will there be a huge benefit of quality when I upgrade to this? Or will it be minimal.
Hi. Got one of these a couple of days ago. About to test it this weekend, but have not been able to figure out how you cut a pease of the RERF file to get room for al 8 on the plate?
@@FauxHammer fair enough, I printed some tyranids with the craftsman resin but lost my settings and it’s been hit or miss since. Back to the drawing board lol
I'm looking at getting my first resin printer for minis after owning an FDM printer for many years. I'm leaning towards the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra with wash and cure station. Is there anything else I should seriously consider instead at this point in time? I don't mind the price. There's just so much stuff out there that it's almost overwhelming lol
There's the question really: are you looking for something to cut your teeth on resin printing so you can decide if it's something you want do long term or are you looking for a 3d printer to keep long term? Also a lot of this depends on your use case and what you intend to print. As Ross points out in several videos, pixel size is important, but also once you get below 30-35 microns you're really into diminishing returns for most applications. Learning to use Anti Aliasing well and what it's limitations are will give you a better result than dropping to a 20 micron pixel size without AA (in my opinion). If you want a cheap and cheerful printer to try it out, the Anycubic Photon Mono 2 is a great place to start. If you want something bigger this 6Ks is probably also a good shout for it's current price. Both are/will be popular, so getting input from other owners should be easy. And as popular models, they should be relatively easy to move on if you feel like graduating to something fancier.
@@richstokes144 thanks for the suggestions. I'm just wary of buying something smaller (and cheaper) to start with, only to then want to upgrade before too long lol.. My plan was to just print mini's like 40K stuff.
@@Prickles2001 It's hard to judge printed models unless you see them yourself in person. But for my own similar purposes I've found a 35 micron pixel and layer height with good Anti Aliasing to be absolutely fine. You may feel differently. How do you pick a starting printer? That's hard to say, I've avoided Elegoo because their ball joints on the platforms look crap compared to the 4 point system other makes have, but lots of people use them without issue. Acf is crap, speed is not what you're optimising for with minis you're generally looking for a sharp detail so the latest speed printers at £450 are basically as good as a £350 printer from last year for minis.
This is overwhelming. I will be doing a video soon. But I think this printer is a solid deal at this point in time. There is a new printer from a big brand coming soon. Maybe in the next month we will hear. I can't say more, but I have a meeting on Monday where I will hear more
Hi, Ross... Watched a lot of your and Vogman videos and became more and more confused considering actual print quality of the new 12K printers. Surely I've noted you have declared a war against ACF film, but then you find out the new Saturn 3 Ultra doesn't produce that kind of blurriness, though Vogman have noticed that specific ACF texture on both M5S and Saturn 3 Ultra both looking the same (alas he was talking more about surface finish than print sharpness). So now I feel a bit stuck - does M5-not-S provide the Saturn 3-non-Ultra print sharpness or not? :) I would just buy Saturn 3 since it has confirmed per pixel print quality (seen on one of the channels recently), have that advanced homogeneous light source, but theese aren't available yet - no, they are, but for a double M5 price, what is not an option. And since you've checked even 6Ks and compared it to the rest of thouse, to summarise it as a set of questions, can you confirm that: 1) ACF film used on M5S is at least visually the same one on the Saturn 3 Ultra? This is to sort out can some specific ACF type can be a source of this problem or can it be the light source; 2) Does M5 produce the same print quality as Saturn 3 since they use the same screen? Or the light source (M5 is obviousely a bit a cheap printer with this LED array) makes the difference? Thanks, Ignat
Hiya thanks for watching, let me answer your questions directly. 1, yes the SCF looks visually identical to every other ACF film. 2. No. None of the M5 printers have print quality on part with either of the Saturn 2 printers, or even the Saturn 2 I have a video coming to explain the differences
Thanks, will look forward your video. Hope to get explained, what is SCF too =) Sounds a bit grim, hope Saturn 3 availability (i.e. prices) will move down to match M5 - now there is only Saturn 2 for that price on Ali :)
Since we can't get wargamer resin Australia, has anyone tried the new Anycubic ABS+ V2? This is water washable with the properties of ABS so it could be very similar.
Anycubics naming convention and flooding of versions put me away from it. I've started with first Photon, but I'm now Elegoo client. I just really do not accept anycubics confusing, overcomplicated, overpopulated range of printers.
Fauxhammer. After 5 prints with ultra tough resin in black, ive only managed one actual print, the rest havent even stuck to the plate and printed.Wondering if you could a brand new printer guy out? Losing my mind a little 😅.
Yep, watch my “how to print miniatures video, then my guide to Chitubox and Lychee settings I posted last week. My guess, your base exposure time is wrong..
I don't have access to the video yet but I actually purchased 2 of these recently and there has been a problem with the slicers ignoring "Rest after retraction" times, did you notice this? did you also notice that there is about a 6 second rest after retraction that you cannot turn off in the first 50 layers? I have been going back and forth with an Anycubic engineer, I'll check out the video tomorrow but I am curious if you have noticed these oddities as well? As you probably know Rest after retraction is important for thicker resins and slightly colder temperatures. Besides that the printer has been good.
@FauxHammer Currently support in Lychee and slice in Chitu, it wasn't an issue with prints not being fast, it's more that the machine just completely ignores rest after retraction settings, the first 50 layers are always 6 seconds after full retraction until the UV light source comes on and then after the first 50 layers there is 0 rest after retraction, no matter what you set, it is always 6 seconds for the first 50 layers and then 0 after that, I usually use .05s but the backlight comes on immediately regardless after the 50th layer.
@@TunneLVisioN42 I've just noticed something like this with mine. Using a 1.8 sec exposure and a 1 second rest, the first 50 layers (or rather the balance of the first 50 once it's out of burn in and transition layers) appear like they spend around 8 seconds at the fep, while layers 51 and onward sit at the bottom for about 2 seconds. What initially worried me is that the screen shows the print for the full 8 (ish) seconds, not the 1.8 ish seconds I'd expect. I have the tank on and am reluctant to remove it so I haven't done a check that the light is actually on for the whole of the 7.8 seconds. Have you checked this?
@@richstokes144 Thats another weird thing about the machine that I didn't add just so I didn't overload my comment, your observations are correct, the LCD screen is turning on and staying on for a long time during the rest, but, if you turn the lights off in the room where you are printing you will notice that the LCD (which usually indicates the UV exposure has started) is turning on much sooner than the actual UV light does, so that's just another oddity in the mix, not only does the machine ignore rest after retraction, it sets its own extremely long rest for the first 50 layers then ignores any rest after retraction from the 51st on just like you say, this is a VERY important issue especially with thicker resins and less than ideal temperatures, you need that rest after retraction and it's not acceptable that the machines are ignoring it, it's something I'm surprised that wasn't caught, anyways enough tangenting on my part, it's really easy to see the glow of the UV and when it turns on compared to the LCD screen, in all my tests the UV times are activating correctly, the LCD screen just turns on way earlier than the UV source, this is the only machine I have seen to do this, there is a forced firmware time set that cannot be altered by the end user. This is not okay.
@@TunneLVisioN42 OK, I have found a setting called "Exposure Off Compensation" which is the last option available on the LCD screen while a print job is running. There is no mention of this in the hilariously bad manual for the 6Ks. The option has 2 settings "Open" and "Closed". This appears to be a poor translation for "on " and "off". I set this to "closed" and the printer is no longer adding 6 seconds to the first 50 layers. I'm not certain it's respecting the "Light-off Delay" value from Lychee though, I think it's ignoring is effectively using a zero value.
@@FauxHammer it's either this or the m3 premium, i wish i can see a photo of someone fitting a lot of minis on the build plate tho, just wanna see how well it fits😅
geni.us/MonoX6Ks Should be working? It will send you to the main Anycubic store or the Germany/France store if you are from one of those countries. What are you seeing?
5:50 wow, congratulations, it's the first time I see someone thinking that way, how did you calculate it, is there a calculator, I'm interested in my m5s pro to calculate, is this confusing me, you chose 30 micron layer high, closer than 34 micron pixel size , then why didn't you choose 34 micron layer high, does that sound more logical to me than the 30?
@@FauxHammer and I ordered anicubic 14k pro, instead of watching your videos before I ordered it, I ordered it because I want to get small details on the 3d model, now I have to change the fep film, I'm sorry that I didn't watch your videos before I should have taken saturn 12 k, I found many 3d models on the internet that were printed with saturn 12 k and they look awesome, and do you know how many I found from anycubic 14 k? zero, I guess they won't send me 2 kg of free resin for quick printing, will I throw them away, I don't understand the point of quick printing at all if you lose half the details on the 3d model, and why that stupid film for quick printing, I'm totally disappointed
The math in your video is wrong, isn't it? You're saying to take the X or Y print area measurement and divide it by the pixels on the same axis. But on the screen you're showing pixels / measurement.
They gave me this printer as a replacement for my photon mono x2 that broke. I like it so far. Using water washable resins on it currently. Would you recommend this over the M5 still and what about M5S pro
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I want to play warhammer fantasy 7th edition but can't afford it so printing them sounds like a solution but i checked out myminifactory for a while to build a skeleton army as my first 500 points but couldn't see.. Anyone know an artist that makes warhammer fantasy vampires, ghouls, skeletons etc?
Thanks for watching, Sorry but i don;t encourage direct Warhammer prints or shares to be on thsi page. but You can find a ton of Undead proxies on My Mini Factory,
@@FauxHammer The supports dude they are sweet as strawberries. Sometimes it can get very frustrating with the supports but I`ve never seen any supports that go smooth like this. You just picked the model right outta there. Amazing
The 6ks was by far the worst and most frustrating printer I ever bought. I own both the Mono X and the Mono X 4k and neither of them gave me the headaches that the 6ks did. After 4 months of Anycubic after sales support and going through the Anycubic wiki for troubleshooting with a fine tooth comb it has delivered NOTHING but uninterrupted failures and wasted resin. Do not buy - it's a piece of sh*t.
Wow, it's like you're having a go at me for a video that was release months ago before it was available on Amazon and I didn't know it's since been added.
@@Fatpumpumlovah2 Mate, what is your damage? Who hurt you? I make the video. Put the link in that is available at the time and then I very rarely look back. What are you complaining about? Do you just like to complain? I can put an Amazon link in here too and also make a commission. I just didn't because I didn't know and never thought about this ever again to go back and check... You got it cheaper on amazon, well done mate. You could come here and go, Hey Just FYI, this is cheaper on amazon and that would be viewed as a helpful comment.
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Buy the Anycubic Photon Mono X 6Ks Here: geni.us/MonoX6Ks
Amazon: amzn.to/3OG6e6x (This and all Amazon links in our video description are affiliate links. Clicking these and making any purchase will earn us a commission from Amazon at no cost to you)
Get any printer working easily with the Photonsters XP Range Finder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:6023738 (watch my video for full instructions th-cam.com/video/Gm0-z971tgY/w-d-xo.html)
Join this channel to get access to perks:
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Buy WARGAMER - The best Resin for Miniatures yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer
Between this and the Halot Mage non pro which would you pick if both where 350 including tax and shipping? I can't make my mind!
Thanks for the amazing video!
@@leonardocastaneda904 between them? I’d pick the Mars 4 Max
th-cam.com/video/QrlQTne3c0g/w-d-xo.html
I recently upgraded from the PhotonS to the Mono X 6Ks. The fine printing is way better than I am use to. However, the are things I love the PhotonS and wish the 6 Ks had. I may be getting a little picky, but here are the things I think the older PhotonS was better with over the 6 Ks:
1) The PhotonS had the square arm bar. I could the build plate 90 degrees and put it back on. This let the extra resin on the build plate drip down(fairly fast) into the resin pan. You can't do that with the 6 Ks. Maybe I can make an arm attachment to do this again.
2) The 6 Ks build plate top is fairly flat compared to the PhotoS's. The steeper build plate top on the PhotonS helped the resin drip off into the pan below.
3) I miss the three fixed sides and lift-up front on the PhotonS. The 6 Ks top has to be set aside somewhere and I don't have a lot of room.
4) The resin pan hold down screws on the 6 Ks are a pain, since you need to completely unscrew them to get the pan out versus just loosening them up on the PhotonS.
I just got mine because of this video! It's amazing. Sadly it's been to cold on the west coast U.S as of late so I've just been printing exposure tests but honestly even at 58°F it's working nice in my garage.
Just put the resin bottle inside a pot of hot water mate , 3 minutes and ready to go
@@neumann1940 definitely will try! Thank you
I've been using it for about a month.
I only had experience with a Formlabs DLP printer before and changing over to this one was super easy, and I would argue way easier to use.
Been using clear, water washable resin and the models look incredible.
The fact that its a DLP looks promising for setting up a farm too.
I have both the 6Ks and the M5s and though both printers are awesome, the 6Ks is nowhere near as good as the M5s. I will often print duplicates of the same pieces to both printers since I am still learning to paint. I have both printers calibrated extremely well and am using the exact same resin in both. The M5s consistently prints better than the 6Ks and with less fails. Don't get me wrong, the 6Ks is great and I don't regret for a moment purchasing it. But in the end, the M5s is the clear winner.
Are you Happy with the m5s? Because of Ross reviews, I have cancelled my preorder and ordered the Saturn3 . I am very happy with it, but i wanted to try out the features of the m5s, and iam happy, that i dont have issues with that feature but iam sad that i can't try them out
@@kypdurron6168it’s a saturn 3 or saturn 3 ultra ? Don’t know if I should change my order to a saturn 3 ultra. Thanks
@@guillaumevanoost811 Saturn3 without ultra. It prints fantastic
@@kypdurron6168Very happy with my M5s. I did abandon the ACF after using up a bottle of High Speed Resin because I really don't need the speed, especially since you have to print at 100 mu (0.1mm). I usually print at 50mu. The only time I have failed prints are when I screw up the supports. Being a noob at resin printing, that happens quite often. Also, the Anycubic app works flawlessly.
do you find the auto level to be somewhat random. that's what as I'm finding. if not i wonder what the difference is.
I pulled the trigger on one of these and a wash and cure plus 8 days ago..
Despite no youtube reviews existing when I dropped my coin on it..
Mines due to arrive tomorrow and its my first resin printer..
My main use will be for parts and components for various projects rather than models, looking forward to setting this up now.
any updates? I'm upgrading from a photon S from back in2019 and as far as im concerned, this is the best price point for features for what im doing.
Just bought one of these on your recommendation because it was also 60% off 😅. Big fan of your reviews. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank You! Hope you enjoy it! That is a steal of a price!
Dude I thinking about this printer specially because of the Black Friday discount. Have you had a good experience with this printer?
@@DemonIgnis Unless you're willing to spend well over double the price, buy the 6Ks. It's solid, reliable and prints fine enough for miniatures.
Only complaints I have are the build plate mounting is kinda awkward and the Anycubic slicer supports leave more pockmarks than other slicers. You can just use Chitubox to fix the slicer problem and the first problem is a mild inconvenience at worst.
Not much incentive to buy better than this as you'll have to learn the basics of 3d printing with any printer besides the horribly expensive Heygears printer.
Your revievs are the best on TH-cam by far. Not just compoaring stats, you test the printers, every detail, i like
Thanks so much ❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for this review. With your TitanForge studio vid and their use of the 6ks in their print room, and this review had me sold. Was able to get one from Anycubic Australia for $304 AUD or BASICALLY $202 USD.👍
By far best reviews on TH-cam!!
thanks so much!
thanks again for another great review! the Mono X 6Ks looks tempting, and the price is nice, but i think im still gonna hold off a bit on purchasing any printers
I'm holding of for 1,5 years already :D sometimes you just have to pull the trigger. Was a very hard decision between the Elegoo Mars 4 Max (tempered glass protector...) and this, but Faux's video, the dual rail, +50mm height, and the 4 point build plate leveling won the race for me.
Hope I won't breach the LCD screen anytime soon :D
Didn't even realize this printer existed! Gotta look into it
I like it quite a bit
I have a M5 standard and its been flawless. Though, I don’’t print miniatures. 1:6 and 1:4 is my preferred scales. Also, Anycubic’s slicer is a long way off from Chitubox and Lychee. That’s just a silly statement.
Yeah, at that scale you're very unlikely to notice. And ufvyoure happybwuth your printer, that's what matters most
That’s good to know. I print at those scales too. I have a Photon M3 and it’s been great but I’m looking for something bigger. Maybe I’ll just go for the standard M5.
Lychee is king when it's compatible (for resin at least)
fast print madness is even raiding resin printers, and this one stands besides it looks gorgeous. 34 micron prints are a lot more better than standard resin ones, and reachable price.. it's a good deal
Yeah, fast print stupidity. At least in the marketing BS, this generation will upset a lot of new printer owners
Hey brother I just wanna say thank u for this video an review on the x6ks I just bought one
myself an I'm fairly new at 3d printin but when i bought it i didnt know if i got a good one or not an also better then the m5 which i still havent done any prints on it yet aint got my clean an cure machine too clean my prints with yet but glad too know I chose the best one lol thank u five star review
Thanks for the video, I've just ordered this via your link so I hope you get your cut! I was originally considering the M5/s but this should be best for my needs and be a bit cheaper. Thanks
This is a good call. I think this is better than the M5s,
That, and the other major 3D printer companies are reluctant and/or refuse to send to the southern hemisphere backwater that I happen to live in.
Been eyeing this one. for a while I guess it is time to pull the trigger. Thanks for the great review. Any way to get the US sponsor links moving forward. Would like to give credit for the purchase where credit is due
I would definitely like to try out the wargamer resin.... just as soon as it's available in the US, lol.
I have both the 6Ks and Mono X2 and I can guarantee the difference is minor even with minis, both of them are high-quality printers and even the 12-micron difference between the both isn't that noticeable!
Mono X2 is a 48 Microns while the 6KS is 34
Just had an OG Photon die on me. No screens to be found, so here I am. With a glowing review from you, and it being on sale right now, I put this (and a spare screen) in my cart.
Now I'm seeing you say it's End of Life? I thought this was about one year old at this point. Is that standard turn around now?
Also, Amazon AND Anycubic have replacement screens for sale.
Oh, when I looked literally yesterday, no screens. Maybe that was the UK site. But you did the right thing. Get a spare screen because they’ll be fine at some point. And based on nothing but Anycubics history.
They’ll be gine before we expect it.
I hope I’m wrong and they have gotten better. I’m just covering my ass
I didn't press go yet, just put them in the cart. I like Anycubic, and $240 (at time of posting) is hard to beat.
Is it worth it to go to the M7 for another $100?
I just got this printer to replace my old Saturn S. Its on sale right now for $289 plus a $25 coupon , so I took the plunge to try it out. I hope its as good as you say.
Well, I'm sure you'll be happy. It's a. Great printer. Nice price too!!!
I would love to get my hands on some of the wargamer resin, Are there any plans to expand to South Africa?
Congratulations for the channel, great job! I'm a dentist and what I value the mostly is sharpness and precision in print quality. Between this Anycubic Photon mono X 6ks and de Elegoo Saturn 3, which one do you think would suit me better?
Did you buy this and use in your dental lab? I have the same question.
@whitpharr5866 no. Actually, I bought the Mars 4 ultra: great for dental printings! Check out the full review here in faux hammer.
Well I got my Mono 2 working, and now I'm wondering if it's big enough. So now i think I need one of these 😝😂
@fauxhammer Not sure if anyone has pointed this out yet but you have incorrectly calculated the micron size, firstly the axis you stated is 5790 pixels is actually 5760.
Also neither 5760 or 5790/195.84=34 nor does 3600/122.4=34
This printer actually has a micron size of 29.4
Sorry, you are wrong. 3600/122,4 = 29,4 pixel per mm (0,029 pixel per micron), but 122,4mm/3600=0,034 mm per pixel (34 microns per pixel).
About time this was reviewed.
Sorry it took so long, it was done a few weeks ago but I had other priority commitments so had to delay the release
That tenjin model is so detailed can u share the link where i can get it
Is this printer better than the X2? I noticed on their website that the X2 is "originally"priced higher, so I was curious if their is a big difference in the two?
I haven't been able to find a comparison between the two. 😅
When will your resin be available outside the UK (Denmark to be specific)? Love the vids!
Fik du svar... hvad bruger du normalt når du printer?
feel like this hits that sweet spot micron wise. anything smaller its very difficult to perceive
Yeah, this or anything around this is fine
@@FauxHammer had to edit my comment. I must have had a stroke while writing. Glad you were able to understand what I was trying to say lol.
@@FauxHammer question for you. i plan on running anti aliasing. should i over shoot and go for a 20 something micron printer in attempts to preserve some fine detail?
@@rmfberry261 Well,what Antoiailiasing helps with is smoothing the edges, when you have smaller pixels, you should not need as much antiailiasing. But anything below 35 um is normally ok with 2xaa and 32x image blur. anything above this like 45 or 50 microns you would be bestter with higher AA
When you get down to 20, I still feel that 2xaa and blur is the sweet spot to sogften out every single voxel line. the difference in quality at that level, really isn't muc.
7:33 why the hell are you pouring the resin on the top of the print bed? That's by far the easiest way to, not only add bubbles to the resin, but make a hell of a mess too.
It’s a secret. I’ve only told some viewers why
I am just waiting for a 13", sub 34 micron printer. Aaaany day now. Cmon guys I know you can do it.
Well. Maybe a couple of weeks
Great review, Does this printer do better then the D2 DLP printer. I am looking for an upgrade for technical components. Looking for best tollerances
DLP is still more accurate. That’s the benefit of the technology, but printers like the Saturn 2 and mini 8kS are bloomin close
Thanks for the quick response. you confermed my thought i will have a look at the saturn 2 and mini 8Ks but i think it will be the D2@@FauxHammer
So I am looking at buying this machine as a way into the field of Resin printing. I just need this printer and the wash and cure right? On Anycubic's site there's a list of add-ons which I don't need? Looking to print Dredge marines and 40k scale stuff if it helps.
Would you recommend this one over the elegoo Mars 4 ultra?
Depends if you want the size of this more than you want the quality of that
Hello. Nice videos👌👍👍. The AA, whorks in this printer, using chitubox? I ONLY use chitubox to slice miniatures. Thanks you☺️
would the anycubic Air Heat & Pure fits in the 6ks?
When you say the build quality here seems better too (09:23) which printer are you saying has the better build quality?
Did you watch from 09:15?
Yes I'm wondering the same thing! Watching from 09:15 . When you say "build quality here seems better too", do u mean the elegoo or the anycubic?@@FauxHammer
i received the oversized protector and i thinnk i remove the upper layer of another one that was there ?? so i did end up with adding a doubble protector and this one is all over the place it is so larger from the screen that i end up with imposible bubbles to removes on the screens seams....dang do i remove it ? was there a second one on there
hi! great video, Just a question here, r u saying that this printer is better than the M5 series because this one is build with better materials? but in terms of microns, the M5 delivers 20 microns against 30 microns on this one, in that terms m5 is better? thanks! I am a new subscriber!
It’s better built and the print quality on this is also much sharper than on the M5s too
I can't get anything to stick to the build plate. Can't figure it out.
Sand the build plate. Nothing sticks to shiny, so if your build plate is perfectly smooth, use sand paper on it to rough it up. You'll increase the surface area for the resin to adhere to but about 10x.
would you recomend this over the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M7
No. This is end of life and based on other comments I don’t think you can still get replace screens for this, even now whilst it’s in sale.
It’s good and if budget is your main concern. Go with it. But it’s probably gonna be a case of, once it dies. It’s done.
@@FauxHammer what do you think of the mono m7 for a beginner
Can you share the settings you use for the 6ks and wargamer resin to get the best performance
Do mars 4 have a better print quality or anycubic x6ks?
How do you feel about matrix light sources in general vs cob refractive vs cob collimating?
Hey Ross, why are you pouring resing onto the build plate but not straight into the resin rank instead?
It looks more cinematographic
Just because it looks better on camera
@@FauxHammer thanks, now I can die peacefully)
I didn't find this info anywhere but can you clarify if Anti aliasing work Mono 6ks? If work, is it both on chitubox or only Photon workshop? Thank you.
is there somewhere that shows how you print multiple exposures on the one plate? i love your content. thanks
I've been searching for the same thing with no luck
Just picked this up as my first resin printer for $279 on amazon free shipping. Did I win the game?
well, i just lost the game since you mentioned the game...
Damnit!
Almost. I just got one for $257 including shipping 😮
but the screenprotector they fournish is different from that is applied (much larger) now that i have changed the screenprotector all my print fail! zero leveling again but no effect
Hi! I'm undecided between Elegoo Mars 4 Max 6k and Anycubic Photon Mono 6ks, Which one should i buy being my first resin machine?
Honestly, whichever one you like. Both are great printers. Neither delivered better quality.
in viet nam elegoo they say no sell elegoo mars 4 max anymore and they say is OVER for this Mars 4 max
I wonder how can it produce better results than the M5 as it has larger pixel size and lower contrast ratio (by the datasheet). Maybe the lack of forced anti-aliasing? The build quality seems better for sure. Unfortunately it has somewhat smaller build area.
I don't know why people despise the Photon Workshop that much. I'm using it without any issues or major inconveniences. It lost some features from the last version though. The "save scene" function just disappeared (like WTF?) and while the automatic support generating method got much better, the manual editing or placement of them got somewhat weird. In the old version you just saw where will they be placed in real time, while now it generates them at once when you're done with the editing.
Photon workshop is ok. I use Lychee to support and PW to slice. Occasionally, the 6ks will give a bad file error part way through the print causing the print to fail with files sliced with lychee. So I use PW to slice. My only gripe is it so dang sloooooow. Probably because it doesn't support GPU acceleration. Saving the sliced file is just as bad also. I'd hate to try and slice a full build plate at 12k with PW. It would take half a day.
EDIT: Just updated to PW 3.2.1 and the slow slicing issue seems to have fixed. Good news. I do actually have another gripe with PW. The lack of being able to set independent lift and retract distances. As it is now D0 and D1 are used for both lift and retract values. Increases the print time by 2 seconds per layer as it is now with my resin profile.
I'm thinking about buying this since the price that has on black friday, but i don't want to cure figures, it's imperative to do so with this printer?
You need to clean and cure your prints after printing in any resin printer
So the multiple exposures test works only for anycubic?
yep. RERF feature (Resin Exposure Range Finder). some other printers have had some odd hack methods to simulate this, but it's janky and requires different exposures of each layer without a plate move. you would need to code it yourself.
Saturn 2(hardly available), Photon Mono X 6Ks or Mars 4 Max? They are in approx similar price. Or is it better to pay more for Saturn 3 or Halot-Mage?
Why do people want a Halot Mage, I have no idea who is recommending that trash.
AS for Masr 4 Max or X6kS, get whatever si cheaper, the do the same thing at the same quality.
Saturn 3 is much better than those.
@@FauxHammer Some youtubers say its good.
Thank you so much!
What slicer are you using for this? I keep getting file errors while printing.
And we're positive that the sharpness of print quality is largely an attribute of the printer's, and not the resin's merit?
Well, resin is always more responsible for sharpness than any printer.
But I use a resin which is intentionally quite sharp to show off the best the printer can do with more realistically used resins
But is it really so that the X 6Ks doesn't have the Wifi antenna but the previous 6K has?
Yeah this is a downgrade to the 6k and an upgrade to the Mono 2 bloody stupid naming
what is the difference between mono x6k vs mono x 6ks i got x6k recently ?
Quite a lot based on the product page, But I never had the X 6k
Currently have a photon mono x, I’m thinking about getting this printer, will there be a huge benefit of quality when I upgrade to this? Or will it be minimal.
It Will be minimal
Elegoo 4mars max or anycubic photon mono x6ks? Same price
This is taller if that matters. but that's about it in terms of difference
Does anyone have slice settings for this printer?
Would this be a good first printer for someone starting out?
Yeah it’s solid if you have the budget for it. But also check out it’s equivalent for. Elegoo which is the Mars 4 Max
@@FauxHammer elegoo mars 4 max they say is over they don't sell anytmore
Hi. Got one of these a couple of days ago. About to test it this weekend, but have not been able to figure out how you cut a pease of the RERF file to get room for al 8 on the plate?
I used meshmixer to cut it. You can also do it in Chitubox Pro or Voxeldance Tango
@@FauxHammer can you share your R_E_R_F file?
I'm interested in your settings for the craftsman resin if you dont mind posting it.
I don’t post my settings on purpose.
Please check my how to print video, this will explain why
@@FauxHammer fair enough, I printed some tyranids with the craftsman resin but lost my settings and it’s been hit or miss since. Back to the drawing board lol
Flyingbear Revision 2 3D Printer review please; add Klipper and see the speed
I'm looking at getting my first resin printer for minis after owning an FDM printer for many years. I'm leaning towards the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra with wash and cure station. Is there anything else I should seriously consider instead at this point in time? I don't mind the price.
There's just so much stuff out there that it's almost overwhelming lol
There's the question really: are you looking for something to cut your teeth on resin printing so you can decide if it's something you want do long term or are you looking for a 3d printer to keep long term? Also a lot of this depends on your use case and what you intend to print. As Ross points out in several videos, pixel size is important, but also once you get below 30-35 microns you're really into diminishing returns for most applications. Learning to use Anti Aliasing well and what it's limitations are will give you a better result than dropping to a 20 micron pixel size without AA (in my opinion).
If you want a cheap and cheerful printer to try it out, the Anycubic Photon Mono 2 is a great place to start. If you want something bigger this 6Ks is probably also a good shout for it's current price. Both are/will be popular, so getting input from other owners should be easy. And as popular models, they should be relatively easy to move on if you feel like graduating to something fancier.
@@richstokes144 thanks for the suggestions. I'm just wary of buying something smaller (and cheaper) to start with, only to then want to upgrade before too long lol.. My plan was to just print mini's like 40K stuff.
@@Prickles2001 It's hard to judge printed models unless you see them yourself in person. But for my own similar purposes I've found a 35 micron pixel and layer height with good Anti Aliasing to be absolutely fine. You may feel differently. How do you pick a starting printer? That's hard to say, I've avoided Elegoo because their ball joints on the platforms look crap compared to the 4 point system other makes have, but lots of people use them without issue. Acf is crap, speed is not what you're optimising for with minis you're generally looking for a sharp detail so the latest speed printers at £450 are basically as good as a £350 printer from last year for minis.
This is overwhelming. I will be doing a video soon. But I think this printer is a solid deal at this point in time.
There is a new printer from a big brand coming soon. Maybe in the next month we will hear.
I can't say more, but I have a meeting on Monday where I will hear more
I’d love to get some of your resin, but I’m in the US. What’s the next best resin for minis?
i liked the Anycubic Craftsman DLP before i made this, but others swear by Sirayatech fast with some Sirayech tenacious mixed in. i never tried it
Can such models of height: 2 cm, 1 cm or 5 mm be printed on such a printer?
Yeah. Dunno how sharp they would be. But they are printable
Hello sir, What do you think of mono X2?
Never used one. Do they even sell it anymore?
@@FauxHammer that's a punch in my stomach i recently bought One. Gonna give It back and swap for a more recent One. Any advice?
What resin would you recommend for us rebels?
I liked ANycubic DLP Craftsman before we made this.
What's the print speed like?
Hi, Ross... Watched a lot of your and Vogman videos and became more and more confused considering actual print quality of the new 12K printers. Surely I've noted you have declared a war against ACF film, but then you find out the new Saturn 3 Ultra doesn't produce that kind of blurriness, though Vogman have noticed that specific ACF texture on both M5S and Saturn 3 Ultra both looking the same (alas he was talking more about surface finish than print sharpness). So now I feel a bit stuck - does M5-not-S provide the Saturn 3-non-Ultra print sharpness or not? :) I would just buy Saturn 3 since it has confirmed per pixel print quality (seen on one of the channels recently), have that advanced homogeneous light source, but theese aren't available yet - no, they are, but for a double M5 price, what is not an option.
And since you've checked even 6Ks and compared it to the rest of thouse, to summarise it as a set of questions, can you confirm that:
1) ACF film used on M5S is at least visually the same one on the Saturn 3 Ultra? This is to sort out can some specific ACF type can be a source of this problem or can it be the light source;
2) Does M5 produce the same print quality as Saturn 3 since they use the same screen? Or the light source (M5 is obviousely a bit a cheap printer with this LED array) makes the difference?
Thanks,
Ignat
Hiya thanks for watching, let me answer your questions directly.
1, yes the SCF looks visually identical to every other ACF film.
2. No. None of the M5 printers have print quality on part with either of the Saturn 2 printers, or even the Saturn 2
I have a video coming to explain the differences
Thanks, will look forward your video. Hope to get explained, what is SCF too =) Sounds a bit grim, hope Saturn 3 availability (i.e. prices) will move down to match M5 - now there is only Saturn 2 for that price on Ali :)
Since we can't get wargamer resin Australia, has anyone tried the new Anycubic ABS+ V2? This is water washable with the properties of ABS so it could be very similar.
I’ve not tried it. I have their original ABS, when I get some. I’ll try it, but most abs have soft details
Anycubics naming convention and flooding of versions put me away from it. I've started with first Photon, but I'm now Elegoo client. I just really do not accept anycubics confusing, overcomplicated, overpopulated range of printers.
Well, the Mars 4 line? Including the Mars Mate, which works with more Saturns than marses…
@@FauxHammer hah fair point, but still Anycubic wins confusion competition.
Fauxhammer. After 5 prints with ultra tough resin in black, ive only managed one actual print, the rest havent even stuck to the plate and printed.Wondering if you could a brand new printer guy out? Losing my mind a little 😅.
Yep, watch my “how to print miniatures video, then my guide to Chitubox and Lychee settings I posted last week.
My guess, your base exposure time is wrong..
What would be better photon mono 6ks or M5? (I am thinking of using them to make jewelry)
I think the 6Ks is sharper. But I also heard it’s end of life. With screens now unavailable
@@FauxHammer thanks. then should i go for the M5 or it is there some other in that range.
@@UNOCASTILLO Saturn 3 or 4 would be my pick
@@FauxHammer thank you. i wil take a look. Saturn 3 it is a little more expensive than Mono M5. Saturn 4 it is out of my budget.
I don't have access to the video yet but I actually purchased 2 of these recently and there has been a problem with the slicers ignoring "Rest after retraction" times, did you notice this? did you also notice that there is about a 6 second rest after retraction that you cannot turn off in the first 50 layers? I have been going back and forth with an Anycubic engineer, I'll check out the video tomorrow but I am curious if you have noticed these oddities as well? As you probably know Rest after retraction is important for thicker resins and slightly colder temperatures. Besides that the printer has been good.
I hadn’t noticed this at all. I found prints to be relatively fast. What slicer are you using?
@FauxHammer Currently support in Lychee and slice in Chitu, it wasn't an issue with prints not being fast, it's more that the machine just completely ignores rest after retraction settings, the first 50 layers are always 6 seconds after full retraction until the UV light source comes on and then after the first 50 layers there is 0 rest after retraction, no matter what you set, it is always 6 seconds for the first 50 layers and then 0 after that, I usually use .05s but the backlight comes on immediately regardless after the 50th layer.
@@TunneLVisioN42 I've just noticed something like this with mine. Using a 1.8 sec exposure and a 1 second rest, the first 50 layers (or rather the balance of the first 50 once it's out of burn in and transition layers) appear like they spend around 8 seconds at the fep, while layers 51 and onward sit at the bottom for about 2 seconds.
What initially worried me is that the screen shows the print for the full 8 (ish) seconds, not the 1.8 ish seconds I'd expect.
I have the tank on and am reluctant to remove it so I haven't done a check that the light is actually on for the whole of the 7.8 seconds. Have you checked this?
@@richstokes144 Thats another weird thing about the machine that I didn't add just so I didn't overload my comment, your observations are correct, the LCD screen is turning on and staying on for a long time during the rest, but, if you turn the lights off in the room where you are printing you will notice that the LCD (which usually indicates the UV exposure has started) is turning on much sooner than the actual UV light does, so that's just another oddity in the mix, not only does the machine ignore rest after retraction, it sets its own extremely long rest for the first 50 layers then ignores any rest after retraction from the 51st on just like you say, this is a VERY important issue especially with thicker resins and less than ideal temperatures, you need that rest after retraction and it's not acceptable that the machines are ignoring it, it's something I'm surprised that wasn't caught, anyways enough tangenting on my part, it's really easy to see the glow of the UV and when it turns on compared to the LCD screen, in all my tests the UV times are activating correctly, the LCD screen just turns on way earlier than the UV source, this is the only machine I have seen to do this, there is a forced firmware time set that cannot be altered by the end user. This is not okay.
@@TunneLVisioN42 OK, I have found a setting called "Exposure Off Compensation" which is the last option available on the LCD screen while a print job is running.
There is no mention of this in the hilariously bad manual for the 6Ks.
The option has 2 settings "Open" and "Closed". This appears to be a poor translation for "on " and "off".
I set this to "closed" and the printer is no longer adding 6 seconds to the first 50 layers.
I'm not certain it's respecting the "Light-off Delay" value from Lychee though, I think it's ignoring is effectively using a zero value.
I've been looking for a printer that could fit 8 or maybe 10 or 12 miniature to print😅 my mono 4k can only print so much🥺
would be good to go a size up.
@@FauxHammer it's either this or the m3 premium, i wish i can see a photo of someone fitting a lot of minis on the build plate tho, just wanna see how well it fits😅
Would u still recommend this now?
Nope, it;s end of life and you won;t be able to get parts soon, if not already
USB stick link isn't in description
Pardon?
@@FauxHammer NO LINK FOR THE THUMB DRIVE IN YOUR DESCRIPTION
@@FauxHammerYour missing out on affiliate link marketing
@@hoohaa559oh fir the Sandisk thumb. Yeah, for point
@FauxHammer your links arent working can i get some working ones?
geni.us/MonoX6Ks Should be working? It will send you to the main Anycubic store or the Germany/France store if you are from one of those countries. What are you seeing?
5:50 wow, congratulations, it's the first time I see someone thinking that way, how did you calculate it, is there a calculator, I'm interested in my m5s pro to calculate, is this confusing me, you chose 30 micron layer high, closer than 34 micron pixel size , then why didn't you choose 34 micron layer high, does that sound more logical to me than the 30?
Because most stepper motors have an accuracy of 10um, or so the marketing tells us
@@FauxHammer and I ordered anicubic 14k pro, instead of watching your videos before I ordered it, I ordered it because I want to get small details on the 3d model, now I have to change the fep film, I'm sorry that I didn't watch your videos before I should have taken saturn 12 k, I found many 3d models on the internet that were printed with saturn 12 k and they look awesome, and do you know how many I found from anycubic 14 k? zero, I guess they won't send me 2 kg of free resin for quick printing, will I throw them away, I don't understand the point of quick printing at all if you lose half the details on the 3d model, and why that stupid film for quick printing, I'm totally disappointed
The math in your video is wrong, isn't it? You're saying to take the X or Y print area measurement and divide it by the pixels on the same axis. But on the screen you're showing pixels / measurement.
Yeah sorry. Ooops. I hit it right in Excel. But its harder to do in video.
Is this printer really better than the M5?
In print quality, yes
They gave me this printer as a replacement for my photon mono x2 that broke.
I like it so far. Using water washable resins on it currently.
Would you recommend this over the M5 still and what about M5S pro
I want to play warhammer fantasy 7th edition but can't afford it so printing them sounds like a solution but i checked out myminifactory for a while to build a skeleton army as my first 500 points but couldn't see.. Anyone know an artist that makes warhammer fantasy vampires, ghouls, skeletons etc?
Thanks for watching, Sorry but i don;t encourage direct Warhammer prints or shares to be on thsi page. but You can find a ton of Undead proxies on My Mini Factory,
Does AA works in this printer, when use chitubox? Thanks
Can I use my mom's credit card?
yes you can. but i recommend don't.
Why? Why must we wait 4 days? Why must you tease us??? 😢
6:53 Dafuq?!? What the hell is going on?
50 £ for a bottle of water?
Hmmm, printing models?
@@FauxHammer The supports dude they are sweet as strawberries. Sometimes it can get very frustrating with the supports but I`ve never seen any supports that go smooth like this. You just picked the model right outta there. Amazing
@@luxferre5546 Ummm, makes me worryu who you;re buying your models from lol
The 6ks was by far the worst and most frustrating printer I ever bought.
I own both the Mono X and the Mono X 4k and neither of them gave me the headaches that the 6ks did.
After 4 months of Anycubic after sales support and going through the Anycubic wiki for troubleshooting with a fine tooth comb it has delivered NOTHING but uninterrupted failures and wasted resin.
Do not buy - it's a piece of sh*t.
Not had a single failure with mine compared to photon mono x2 it's better. Sounds like you have exposure or temperature issues.
Another hmmmmm
Remind me what the last one was again
@@FauxHammer it was the comparison of the saturn ultra and normal variant and in the comments just printers in general
why would i buy via your link when its 299 on amazon?
Wow, it's like you're having a go at me for a video that was release months ago before it was available on Amazon and I didn't know it's since been added.
@@FauxHammer really bro? its been on amazon for months at that price, wtf u talking about?
@@Fatpumpumlovah2 Mate, what is your damage? Who hurt you?
I make the video. Put the link in that is available at the time and then I very rarely look back. What are you complaining about? Do you just like to complain? I can put an Amazon link in here too and also make a commission. I just didn't because I didn't know and never thought about this ever again to go back and check...
You got it cheaper on amazon, well done mate. You could come here and go, Hey Just FYI, this is cheaper on amazon and that would be viewed as a helpful comment.
@@FauxHammer wait, are you melting? is works killing you? It was a question!!! probqably saving many extra 99 bucks eh!?
calm down.
You're on the man's channel complaining about how you can optionally buy it through the link.