Forging tongs with a LH-15a induction heater
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- An overview of the coils and process I use to forge tongs with my induction heater, followed by a look at making a pair of v-bit tongs.
In general, I use a 5-loop, 1" inner diameter coil with 3/4" from the start of one loop to the next to forge a double-ended tong blank. I leave enough unforged stock at each end to subsequently forge the bit and boss and the transition to the reins. I continue to use same coil until the geometry of the bit no longer fits. I finish the bit with my 3-loop 1.5" long 1.5" inner diameter coil. Then, I part the forging in the center to get equal-length reins and rivet. Finally, I switch to a 5-loop 1" inner diameter coil to ovalize the reins.
Brian Brazeal, "How to forge tongs": • How to Forge Brian Bra... .
Mark Apery, "Fundamentals", vol 1: markaspery.com/...
Nice work, good looking tongs. I really appreciate these videos using induction heating.
Glad to hear that!
great video. Looks that I need to experiment with different coils more myself.
Try going with EFD Induction equipment. Much tighter control of the magnetic field in heating the work.
Another nice video, Eric.
Game changer....
Beautiful anvil
have you tried making several coils from one piece of tube so you don't need to change coils?
This video is very helpful, I've been considering this machine for some time.
Hi ,loving you posts about induction forging (you have probably prevented me making many mistakes I would have made if I haven't seen them ...thanks) can I just ask so far is the induction unit proving to be reliable ? Looking to purchase a unit and like your good self am a keen hobbyist but after searching there seems to be a very limited number of suppliers globally and the unit you have on the face of it should meet my requirements .. was just wondering apart from finding a reliable seller are there any specific failings so far encountered (I anticipate been a light user not into mass production ) Any help much appreciated :::::)
One segment of the timer doesn't usually light up and it doesn't always beep anymore. It does always heat, so . These units should last for literally years of heating time.
I bought mine from the folk that now sell them as US Solid. They also will sell you 8mm flare nuts and tubing if you ask (they don't list those on their site).
@@ejoftheanvil Hi Eric, thanks for the response ,will bear this in mind going forward ,keen to give this a try :)
Hey there, can you share more information about the water pump you are using. We cant make ours work as it detect lack of water.
Great video and tips! thanks
Instead of changing coils, can't you make a jumper to put across the loops you don't need? Not a soldered on one, but one that can just be put on or removed as you need it.
Given the high currents involved, I have found jumpers to be problematic. I also find that I'm changing coils to get different shapes 99% of the time rather than just different lengths.
Is changing the coils difficult? How do
you keep water from leaking all over ?
Changing coils takes me 30s. I turn off everything (including the cooler), grab the wrench I keep on the cart and pop one off and put on the other. The internal plumbing is setup so that water drains downward from the coil (just don't position the cooler above the induction heater). You get a little water dripping out of the coil (which you can mostly avoid if you open the left side of the coil first and wait for the gurgling to stop).
I apologize if you have already addressed it but as far as a cooling unit, could a small pump and heat exchanger handle the cooling water needs for this unit? I was hoping an automotive heater core with a small fan and a small pump would suffice. I think I remember reading that this unit requires cooling water to be 40 celsius or below?Thanks!
I do show some pictures in an earlier video: th-cam.com/video/rNZkxVRb5Ys/w-d-xo.html . I think you will need more pumping power than you expect and perhaps a bigger fan. In particular, garden pond pumps will not do the trick. They are rated for the flow but not for enough "head". You will need a Procon or irrigation pump. And, 40°C is 104°F, so that's going to be difficult to maintain if your shop is warm. Mine is in my basement, so it stays
Great videos i just saw.......i feel that you are trying to heat the work piece more in the length but your resonance gets off the range .
The easiest way to do that is just use a coil loop of 4 or 3 turns and add 2 or 3 pairs more of 4 or 3 turns loop coil . Add coil in parallel to increase heating length .
Yes. That's a great observation. I haven't built any coils like that but I've seen some that use that approach. I definitely need to try it out!
Nice video Eric- go to ebay and search "high temperature fiberglass sleeve" this is a cheap covering for the coils and works great to avoid shorting the coils
Just have to avoid the cheap stuff, have had my coils burst into flame more often than I want.
there is a reason you dont put a fiberglass stocking on the homemade coils or dip them in gypsum?
The fiberglass melts onto the metal when I accidentally bump it at high heats. I decided it wasn't worth it.
Can you melt steel with thus mashine?
Probably a small amount with an adequate crucible. Some people are melting copper, etc. Haven't heard of steel.
how much is this induction heater
These days (Nov 2019), about $1000 US w/ shipping. There are some cheaper options from other manufacturers with similar specs that I've seen on ebay, but I don't know about their reliability and performance.
Price pleas. I want buy.
In the USA, about $1000 with shipping. You can find them on ebay. You can also buy from US Solid. ussolid.com/ussolid-15-kw-high-frequency-induction-heater-30-80-khz-220v-or-110v.html. I haven't bought from them but a friend did.