Just getting ready to do these on my wife's GLK 350. Thanks for the torque specs! Her GLK has a slight clunk, especially on the right side. As you mentioned, I can also twist the arm a little more than I would like to be able to. Everything else checks out. Usually I wait until there is snow on the ground to do these things...nice job pointing out the requirement to have the vehicle at the correct height prior to torquing the inside bolt.
Great video! I have WIS but of course there are never enough pictures. This was exactly what I needed! Did your clunk go away? I’ve had it for about a year and finally got around to buying the control arms.
Should always be on the nut if a nut bolt combo . In the case of say a crankshaft bolt the torque would be on the bolt . That being said it is a torque to yield measurement to get precise stretch on a fastener.
You are supposed to do an alignment when changing thr cross strut and or thr tension strut(the one in the video). Those arms are used for correcing thr camber when its out.
I usually reuse them. By the book I believe they are to be replaced. On Hondas the service manual states they are to be replaced for sure. The ball joint comes with a new nut with the arm.
Dont reuse any bolts if the torque spec is a number + what ever amount of degrees. Especially if its aluminum bolts. Mercedes does use aluminum bolts alot, not on suspenion components but engine components yes. Also always replace bolts for flex disks when the disk cracks
the brake adjustment is done at the star wheel within the parking brake assembly inside the rear rotor . The cable is suposed to auto adjust where the front cable splits into 2 under the car . It kind of rocks and ratchets itself as the cable stretches. There is also a spring on the mechanism that can break if rusty . Once you locate it under the car spar a bunch of lube on it and see that it is all free and not sticking
![[UNCUT] ชาวบ้านถาม “นายกอุ๊งอิ๊งค์” ประชาชนมีกิน มีใช้ กี่โมง? I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 16 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tKZvOzLIJJc/mqdefault.jpg)
Just getting ready to do these on my wife's GLK 350. Thanks for the torque specs! Her GLK has a slight clunk, especially on the right side. As you mentioned, I can also twist the arm a little more than I would like to be able to. Everything else checks out. Usually I wait until there is snow on the ground to do these things...nice job pointing out the requirement to have the vehicle at the correct height prior to torquing the inside bolt.
Thanks for this much needed video. You make it look so easy.
Thank you, I'm going to try to do, but before I need some tools and where to order the part. Thanks
Great video! I have WIS but of course there are never enough pictures. This was exactly what I needed! Did your clunk go away? I’ve had it for about a year and finally got around to buying the control arms.
Good video Thanks for sharing! Did you have to use a Torx to counter tight the bolt to the spindle or just tighten with a socket?
So, did it fix the clunk?
Hi Fupa again, did it fix the problem? I can hear only 1 clunk when turning wheel for example...
When you rotate the 180 degrees after torqueing, is that on the bolt or the nut? And do you understand why you do this?
Should always be on the nut if a nut bolt combo . In the case of say a crankshaft bolt the torque would be on the bolt . That being said it is a torque to yield measurement to get precise stretch on a fastener.
Do you need alignment after?
No
You are supposed to do an alignment when changing thr cross strut and or thr tension strut(the one in the video). Those arms are used for correcing thr camber when its out.
Did you use the same bolt and nuts?
I usually reuse them. By the book I believe they are to be replaced. On Hondas the service manual states they are to be replaced for sure. The ball joint comes with a new nut with the arm.
Dont reuse any bolts if the torque spec is a number + what ever amount of degrees. Especially if its aluminum bolts. Mercedes does use aluminum bolts alot, not on suspenion components but engine components yes. Also always replace bolts for flex disks when the disk cracks
Buddy do you have any idea in which part of the car I can adjust the emergency brake?
the brake adjustment is done at the star wheel within the parking brake assembly inside the rear rotor . The cable is suposed to auto adjust where the front cable splits into 2 under the car . It kind of rocks and ratchets itself as the cable stretches. There is also a spring on the mechanism that can break if rusty . Once you locate it under the car spar a bunch of lube on it and see that it is all free and not sticking