RV DIY | CHEAP HANDLING FIX FORD F53 CHASSIS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ย. 2024
- Hi everyone and welcome back for another video. In this video we take you on a step by step RV DIY Cheap Handling Fix for the Ford F53 Chassis. What is the Cheap Handling Fix? It is when you move the sway bar link to the inner hole causing the sway bar to be stiffer and the sway to be reduced.
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You might want to consider taking the bolts out on both sides so both ends move freely at the same time as opposed to just removing one bolt and fighting the other side. I'm getting ready to add/upgrade sway bars, sumo springs and a rear track bar. I'll stick with the factory shocks for awhile since it is a 2020 I just purchased. They are easy to swap anyhow.
Definitely take both bolts out before trying to reposition them to the holes closer to the axle. It's a lot easier that way and takes the strain off the sway bar when working with the second bolt.
This should be the only way you change the position of the bolts. Remove them both first.
Take both sides off first,then put it back together
So, a little bit of advice. Remove both drivers and passenger side first. Then install both at the same time. This stops you having to fight the tension. It’s a bar that connects both sides together and one side wants to be in the same height as the other side so do both sides at the same time.
Yup
Little tip…..remove connections on both lower link bolts before relocating bolts to sway bar. Adding grease to bolts helps
with installation.
Apply blue Locktite to all nuts, torque all nuts to 66lbs.
While under rig, check and confirm bolts(2) on each band bracket nuts,(sway bar attachment) are torqued to 66lbs.
These bolt connections are notorious for coming loose. I re applied locktite to mine to be on safe side.
You are lucky to have a great partner.
Great video, happy motoring.
First off this fix does work for 90 % of the 2019 and below Ford F53 chassis out there, I actually spoke to a Ford tech rep at an RV show about this and he said that the manufacturer of the coach should change it during the build depending on weight, ect... Second it does not void the warranty from Ford doing the changes yourself. In fact their is a TH-cam video of a Ford rep saying exactly that ( dated 21 February 2018). And as Izzy pointed out it is a short term cheap suspension fix until a later date when he will replace the sway bar with the one from Roadmaster. Izzy and MJ keep up the good work and thanks for sharing...
Exactly Bill. The Chassis are shipped with the expectation of the RV builder to make fine adjustment. They are supplied with 2 mounting points for that reason. Thank you for watching and the comment.
Izzy
The CHF was the first thing I did on our 2017 Thor Windsport 29M back in Nov 2016 and it did improve the handling big time...we also installed the Roadmaster Steering Stabilizer to the front end!
Roadmaster is the way to go and a future upgrade for us for sure. Thanks for watching.
Izzy
I go and pick up our 2022 Jayco Precept 36C and this will be the first thing that I'm going to do.
Made the change to front and back on my 2007 HURRICANE 32e. Amazing positive difference.
Awesome. Have not done a road test yet. Thanks for watching and the feedback.
Izzy
There aren't 2 holes in a F53 Thor Hurricane factory.
I'm willing to go look again and admit it if I'm wrong.
Drove from Florida to Ontario Canada in early March. Made the change while I was in Florida.
In the rear you will see two bolts. You need to flip the configuration around. If you like I will take a pic and post it.
Great Video! Made me comfortable enough to do it. Just did this today. 2006 F53. If you take both bolts out then move the bolts to new positions it works much easier. I tried your way and could not move the passenger side bolt to the new hole. Even with pry bar.
Yes I was working by myself maybe thats the difference. I had the Safe T Plus steering stabilizer installed prior to this.
I would also throw out a warning that it did not look like you were using an impact socket on an impact gun. Those chrome sockets have been know to shatter. From an ex tech.Thanks again!
Thanks for watching the video. I do have impact sockets just did have the right size. I’ll shatter a few lol. Thanks for the heads up.
Izzy
Great job guys (and girls). A learned buddy and I attempted to perform your sway bar position change. What we found was that the vertical space between the new position of the sway bar and the leaf spring were actually in contact with one another. You clearly showed your fingers between the sway bar and the leaf spring after your relocation. We put the sway bar back in the factory installed front hole position. The difference with what you did and what we did was to raise our rig up using the front auto hydraulic levelers which probably changed the tolerance between the leaf spring and the sway bar. We will now attempt to change the position of the sway bar with the rig slightly raised up using pads under the wheels as you did hoping. A. We have enough room under the rig to work and B. We end up with the proper clearance between the leaf spring and sway bar. Cross your fingers!
Good luck!
Yes, you need to have full weight on the vehicle when you tighten the bolts on a sway bar.
I have done this fix on my 2017 Georgetown XL 369 along with timberen rubber springs front and back. BIG difference !!
Cheap way to get rid of sway. Thanks for watching.
Izzy
Hotel california finger style
Who told you it was safe to do this? Did Ford recommend this?
Nice review of the CHF, MJ you rock! I recommend torquing the link bolts to 66 ft-lbs as well as using a dab of (Blue Loctite) thread sealant on the bolt. Sorry just the engineering side of me.. lol.
I thought about the loctite after we were done filming. Will certainly put a dab on tomorrow. With your Ford knowledge maybe you could provide some insight as to why the factory sets the sway bar to the top hole from the factory.
Thanks again for the feedback.
Izzy
Absolutely, when we (Ford) build both the F-53 and F-59 stripped chassis the links are set in that position not knowing how the RV manufacture or up-fitter will build and distribute the weight on the chassis, CG and front to aft, side to side, nor do we have any control how the RV owner will load and distribute the weight. Some F-53 chassis will not need any adjustment and some will. It all depends on CG and weight distribution. It's up to the RV manufacture or the RV owner to make that decision. With the new 2021 F-53 chassis, it will have larger front and rear anti-sway bars and links, different shocks and valving and dampening depending on the GVWR of the chassis.
Just did the chf but from all I read sway bars should assume the same angle. I used Hellwigs adjustable endlinks. They are inexpensive and I was able to keep the proper angle and the wheels do not lift off the ground prematurely when using jacks
We did a follow up video on a roadmaster install.
Thanks for watching.
Izzy
Good job you two 👍👍
Thanks Chesley! 😃 - MJ
@@EndlessRVing your welcome !
Thanks for the tip! I believe i will try this on our Baystar, plus we’re going to get the Saf t plus steering stabilizer as soon as this apocalypse is over.
We have a Safe T. Excellent upgrade easy DIY. Thanks for watching.
Izzy
I ponied up $550 for one and can't tell the difference between it and a $65 stabilizer that I put on my old class a motorhome.
Awesome Terry can you share which $65 stabilizer that was?
Izzy
You can get that safety plus delivered by Amazon and I got mine in 2 days when I ordered it. Now just need to borrow huge socket, breaker bar and pipe to install. Maybe this weekend.
Thanks for the tip
Thank you for watching
Izzy
WTG MJ 😊 Thanks Izzy for providing a good DYI
Thank you Cindy
Izzy
F53 chassis are also used for commercial hauling vehicles and the other holes are there if the vehicle is to be used commercially. Moving it does not void warranty or exceeds impact force on the sway bar beyond its capacity. The fix works great both front and rear. Check the condition of the rubber bushings while you are down there.
This was the same advise given to us by a ford engineer. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Izzy
Agree with Bill Taylor - take the bolts off BOTH SIDES of the stabilizer. I did it the way shown, and it was very dangerous. I got one side bolted on, and when I took the nut of the other side the tension from the complete (tighter) side caused the bolt to bend, and the stabilizer bar to snapoff. If my hand had been anywhere near it, I'd have lost it.
For the rear, took the bolts off both sides, then swiveled the the sway bar up to the align the stabilizer bar with the rear holes. Only need the jack a smidge to align the holes.
Thank you we will be upgrading to a roadmaster very soon.
Any problems after these years with the cheap handling fix ?
We have Liquid spring now and roadmaster antisway bar
@@EndlessRVing I have installed timbren suspension and I was thinking to do the CHEAP H fix also …
Woohooo, first off, no winter clothes!!!🕺🕺🕺 Secondly great cheap mod Izzy and MJ!!!
New Vision Security Services yay we’re slowly warming up! :) Thanks for watching Blake! - MJ
@@EndlessRVing about time it started warming up there!!!
New Vision Security Services well tonight it’s dropping to almost freezing, but baby steps lol
@@EndlessRVing Guudd LAWD!!🥶🥶
I did mine....1999 chassis....wow...what a difference...hàvent done the rear yet
The roadmaster makes an even bigger difference. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Izzy
Be sure to check out our RV DIY Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLY558blKJ4Us94Nj1aChlfEU_urwC0N8K.html
You forgot toe mention to place locktite on the nuts when placing them back on and the torque spec for the bolt/nuts.
👍
I have heard this helps with the ford f53 chassis. If you removed both bolts there would have been less tension. Do a follow-up to let us know how it works.
Will do. Thanks for watching Lou. 👍 - MJ
First of all, you do not need a jack. Loosen both bolts. at that point you can easily slide the bolts out by hand. You might need a mallet and punch, but no jack. the rest of this video is correct. I am a retired Mast Technician with Chrysler an Ford.
Thank you. We are actually getting ready to change out to a roadmaster Sway Bar. This will help.
Izzy
That is cool. I will have to check mine out. I did do some looking and I think my RV already has the SateyT plus on it. Hope I am saying that right. Found the paperwork for it. Going to get under and confirm. lol
Easy upgrade William. Worth the time.
Izzy
You should have unbolted both sides at the same time so you didn't have to fight the spring tension 🤣 lol. I will try this upgrade
Yep, yep we know now. :) Thanks for the reminder! - MJ
Chrome sockets are not designed for impact use and can break or shatter. You should purchase the correct sockets to use with impact tools.
If you remove the bolts from both sides, it takes a most of the pressure off the stabilizer bar and makes it easier to move.
Thank you Kevin. I do have 2 sets of impact sockets but non of them were the correct size. I did figure out about the other bolts after. The install was done live no script so as the saying goes “you live and learn”.
Thanks for watching and the feedback
Izzy
Undo the other link the bar will move freely
Can this b done on a class c e 450. Thanks great video!
We would suggest upgrading the sway bar. It’s much better result.
th-cam.com/video/xMk1jBc6c6I/w-d-xo.html
Henderson Super Steer says to absolutely NOT do this...he shows that it puts too much stress on the sway bar and it could break (as he shows in his video)...your comment?
Do what you feel is best for your situation
I also want you to know how incredible your channel is and the information and advice you give is priceless to so many of us...thank you.
Any updates to the handling of your rigs since this cheap fix
We upgraded our suspension to LS
Thx for the video. How much torge did you apply when tightening the bolts?
66 ft lbs.
Izzy
This CHF really did make a difference with my 2020 MH. It took about 30 mins total. This includes the jumping up and down celebration!
Easy DIY for sure. Glad it worked out.
Izzy
Saw this video and was wondering if you are still using the CHF? And have you had any problems with the link breaking due to the increased stress and geometry difference?
We have LS suspension now
how about the sway on my 2003 gm workhorse 36ft. 25,000 lb. motorhome????
Hi John we can comment to regarding that MH as we have never drive. That chassis.
Thanks for watching and the comment.
Izzy
So many videos of these breaking after doing this. Better to just upgrade the sway bar.
It seemed simple enough, be interesting to know if you see/feel the difference.
Took it out today on highway with some good winds. Sway was minimal but we have other upgrades also.
Thanks for watching
Izzy
I was at the Forest River International Rally and they had a Ford guy there for a seminar. I asked him about doing this and he said it voids the warranty. Don't know if that was just a CYA thing. I see TONS of post of ppl doing this.
Hmm this is the opposite of what an engineer from Ford has told me. The sway bars are made to be adjusted depending on the build of the RV. That is why there are 2 mounting points. Thank you for watching and your feedback.
Izzy
Thanks. Wish you mentioned the torque...
Thanks for watching. - MJ
Hey Guys! Great info! I just purchased my 2015 Winnebago Brave. I would like to try this out on my rig. What I would like to know, is after 4 months on this, are you still happy with it? Do you still recommend it? I drove my MH home after purchase for total of 70 miles, and boy was I rocking and rolling and being shoved all over the place. I would like to lessen that for now before I can afford all the new bars and Sumos.
Hi Kevin it makes a little difference. Sumo Springs and rear trac bar forums made the biggest difference. Thanks for watching.
Izzy
What was the recommended torque setting on the new placement?
Believe 66lbs. I tightened enough not to damage bushing.
Izzy
Endless RVing thanks! Now if you could do a video on getting rid of the steering slop!
Kenneth/Debbie Davis not sure what you mean by steering slop. For steering I recommend Safe T Plus steering stabilizer. We have one and love it. Easy installation.
SAFE T PLUS | THE BEST RV SUSPENSION UPGRADE th-cam.com/video/Gf7KF8VX_68/w-d-xo.html
Izzy
Endless RVing I have the Safe-T-Plus installed and it has helped immensely but the steering is not tight. It steers more like a vehicle from the 60s. nothing like the rack and pinion on my Ram.
Did you do the rear also or just the front?
Just front and have since upgraded to roadmaster Roadmaster is the better choice.
Izzy
Did it help?
Far better results putting on an aftermarket sway bar
@@EndlessRVing which hole did you attach the aftermarket sway bar too...front or aft?
Seams to me like your preloading the sway bar and could cause problems down the road that’s why they make bigger sway bars and in the long run it might not be so cheap
th-cam.com/video/xMk1jBc6c6I/w-d-xo.html
Izzy I saw a new video today on one of the Newmar pages that says dont do the cheap fix cause stuff breaks. Has your opinion changed on doing the cheap fix or not? Thanks for your help.
As per a Ford engineer who is also a subscriber the sway bar and links are both designed to be used in either hole position. This is done so a person or manufacturer can choose the best position depending on the build of the chassis.
With that said we will be doing a video of us upgrading to the roadmaster sway bar which will always be the better upgrade.
Thanks for watching and the comment.
Thanks..
I also saw another comment on one of the newmar fb pages.. he claims to have talked to an engineer at ford motorhome support and he basically told him the same thing. Use whichever. I did a lot of looking into these stabilzers as well and most have multiple holes from the ones on a Ferrari to motorhomes and they use the hole that best accomplishes what they want from stability to ride etc. Love your stuff. Thanks
Don’t do this it’s very very dangerous. Not everything you see on the Internet is safe. Just check it out for yourself.
I do not know what year F-53 chassis you are working on in this video, but it is NOT the same as my 1996 F-53 chassis!
It’s a 2019
I noticed a difference in our 2019 Newmar 3419 when I did it last year. I added the roadmaster rear sway bar because it's an additional sway bar. But I haven't taken it for a test drive yet
Certainly roadmaster is the way to go for front and rear. Hopefully that’s an upgrade we will do this year. Thanks for sharing.
Izzy
Torque specs 66 pounds on those bolts. Take both bolts out at the same time. Jack is pretty weak for that weight. You are lucky.
The Jack was only for the sway bar not for the motorhome lol. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Izzy
This is a cool idea but ridiculously dangerous. If you ever hit a big bump where the coach bounces high that connection point could Barbie leg backward and you will be screwed if that happens.
th-cam.com/video/xMk1jBc6c6I/w-d-xo.html
It's all good until all that extra stress breaks the stabilizer
It's just not good enough for top heavy motorhomes. Ford makes excuses that they are ok for a flatbed or box truck. And motorhome manufacturers don't want to spend the money to beef them up.
I doubt they will break... after all they were bent from a straight rod. I'm pretty sure that they will bend. Maybe the ones with 2 holes are made to take more weight. Most don't have that option.
Yeah, you are changing the angle of the force being put on the attachment points. Increases the chance of snapping off one of the attachment points. Here's a video of an F53 brought in to have the front sway bar replaced with a Super Steer because the cheap handling fix caused one of the attachment points to break off.
th-cam.com/video/kF0w257Uz3k/w-d-xo.html
I am trying to figure out how to fixed the wobbling movement in myRv ... it wobbles to much while l am driving ... if any body knows what to do please let me know
We suggest seeing a RV mechanic
Thanks for watching and the comment.
Izzy
Hope your shoulder heals
Thanks! Not sure what I did to it but I have to wait until the lockdown is over and then I’ll get it checked out. Thanks for watching. :) - MJ
Endless RVing your welcome. If you have a arm sling or shoulder wrap to support it until you get it checked
Thanks for watching out for me. ;)
Endless RVing your welcome
This cheap fix can’t put too much strain on the link that drops down from the frame. Sway bar should remain level with the ground. You can actually snap the link, not a good thing if you’re driving down the highway at 70. You’re a cheap fix turns into a new sway bar and possibly hoses and wires under the RV when the link breaks. Front sway bar could actually break and take your power steering out. Some of these TH-cam videos blow my mind.
The BEST Motorhome SAFETY Upgrade - Roadmaster Front Sway Bar Installation! th-cam.com/video/xMk1jBc6c6I/w-d-xo.html
Why not redrill a new hole for the frame link? Back and down so it's in the same position...thus keeping the sway bar level like in the stock position?
Just want to give you a little hint that you did the sway bar totally wrong the way you did it was almost dangerous if you remove both link bolts at the same time and then Jack the sway bar up there is no pressure on it and then replace both link bolts at the same time
Not sure if I agree with dangerous, but Hindsight is 20/20 right? We did it live no rehearsal, but I will keep in mind when we replace the sway bar. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Izzy
We enjoy your videos but GOTCHA this time. DUH! You were to close to your problem. Take them both off and then no tension at all. Then swing the bar up and put the bolts back. Credit for letting the wife do the hard one though.
Hi Tom thanks for explaining that. You sound like you’re into the DIY scene, have you thought about starting your own channel? Thanks for watching and the technique.
Izzy
No... the weight that's on the springs is being transferred to the sway bar. Would still have to Jack them both up to get the holes aligned.
do not do this.........................
Just curious if that simple fix makes less sway why doesn't the manufacturer just do it from the beginning?
Don’t have that answer. Thank you for watching and your comment.
Izzy
Probably because it is too much tension and stress for it. I'm sure that if the manufacturer didn't use that mounting location, you shouldn't either
Kevin Williamson the video is showing a cheap mod that is quite common for this Chassis. The manufacturer does not include numerous other suspension improvements (rear track bar, sumo springs, steering stabilizer, upgraded shocks) that does not mean they won’t improve the handling. Ultimately the better choice would be an upgraded sway bar which we will do in the future. For now we will test out this quick mod and see how it works.
Thanks again for your feedback.
Izzy
@@EndlessRVing true, but all those other mods are aftermarket. What I'm saying is that when parts are engineered, they are used accordingly. I am sure it will improve your stability, but over time that bar will fail. Just my opinion. And we all know what they say about options...
Only the chassis is built by Ford. They cannot engineer the best settings for how each RV is built, thus adding a second adjustment hole allows RV manufacturer or consumer to adjust sway bar to best suit their particular build/suspension preferences. It is cheaper for RV manufacturers to keep sway bar in stock setting for every build they make. Still not perfect as if manufacturer built chassis to the exact specs for a particular coach. Newell does this however you are in the 2 million dollar coach range.
Hope that helps
Izzy
You are just transfering weight from the springs to the sway bar and it will become fatigued. The suspension on the F53 is inferior.
If you doubled your shocks your results would improve with quad shocks and not become mushy due to faitgue.
Most F53 owners end up putting Hellwig sway bar on the rear. That (anti) sway bar is 70% stronger AND it does not replace the weak inferior factory bar. It just adds on behind the axle.
Unfortunately that sway bar is $850 and expensive to install if you don't do it yourself. It's actually smaller than the one for the F450 that cost only $250. But the F450 wont fit.
The rear axle carries 2/3 the weight. It responds to wind and road conditions more tgan the front.
It was pure hell to put on my F53. The hardware didnt fit without drilling 4 new holes in the 1/2 plate.
And they shipped a lot of hardware that was not needed. Very disappointing. But driving results are improved.
Hi Terry, We did say in the video the ideal upgrade would be an aftermarket sway bar, which we do plan on doing, however for some a free DIY upgrade to improve handling is helpful. We have done quite a few suspension upgrades that we will cover in an upcoming video. Thank for watching and your feedback.
Izzy
Not sure IF or When the spring bar will get mushy, but when and if it does THEN GET THAT BIGGER Road Master Bar. Meanwhile I like the Double shock Idea but have no idea how big a job it might be to add the second pair.
@@Tom-fu6sf
I've seen pictures. They just replace the bolts with longer ones and add another shock with a spacer between them.
Some companies sell kits. The monster truck have it figured out. They have to protect the drivers from 40 ft drops.
I’ve been a mechanic for 25 years. DO NOT DO THIS!!! It puts to much stress on the connecting bar and will snap them and could cause a serious wreck. This is a terrible dangerous hack.
Hmm. This is not what a Ford engineer told us. We were informed the F53 sway bar is designed to be installed in either location to reflect what the build is. Thanks for sharing.
Izzy
Endless RVing well ok then. Just telling ya after 25 years of working on heavy equipment and seeing people do this and how many I’ve seen break the connecting rod, just thought I’d give the warning. FYI, there’s an upgrade connecting rod that’s beefier to handle the extra stress of being at the wrong angle. You’re sway bar should be parallel with the frame.
@@memphisrein2841 just wondering so in 25 years how many have you seen break?
@@memphisrein2841 totally agree. I just got a F 53 coach and already looking into upgraging this. I would not do this mod and put my family in the coach. Wrong angle on the sway bar and is over taxing the connecting rods.
I do not trust a guy telling me what to do with an RV suspension that has to wear ear protection to remove a bolt .. Just there I knew something was ""wrong""