RV Cheap handling Fix Front & Rear, Removed the Sway From our Class A, RV Full-Time
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ย. 2020
- The RV Cheap Handling Fix is an adjustment you can make to the Ford F53 Chassis sway bar. The sway bar has two setting, one is firm and the other is loose, the sway bar helps eliminate body roll when going around corners. We also found that adjusting the sway bar we feel more planted while parked at campgrounds. I decided to adjust both the front and the rear sway bars because I felt it would be easier on the front sway bar not to take the full load and weight of the RV while driving around corners.
A popular question is, why is there an adjustment and why doesn’t Ford make it before selling it to an RV manufacturer, from what I have found in the RV forums it is because Ford does not know what the Chassis will be used for, it might be used for a Motorhome a food truck or some other type of vehicle, so they set it in the less firm setting and leave it up to the customers to make the adjustment.
The adjustment is very straight forward and easy to make. You will need a 15 mm socket wrench and a 18 mm socket wrench, it is important to loosen both ends of the sway bar before trying to make your adjustments. If you need to you can also loosen the sway bar, this will give you a bit more play while trying to line up the wholes.
I can say so far, we really like the results from making these adjustments and while driving down the road we feel much more secure on the road, especially while entering and exiting on highway ramps.
I hope you find the video helpful and wish you safe travels! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Hi everyone, we hope you enjoyed the video. If you are curious to see what items we use for RVing we have created an Amazon Storefront www.amazon.com/shop/movingforwardadventures These are just a few of the items we use. If you have any questions about any of them we will do our best to answer them.
Take care and Safe travels!
Hey, Kenny and Sabrina, Here's a few important tips, Make sure all the fasteners are re-torques to 66 ft-lbs and use "Blue Lock-Tight" on the threads for both sway bar bushing brackets and anti-sway bar links. The F-53 chassis is exclusively built for motorhomes. The F-59 chassis are designed for UPS, Fed-Ex, Bread Box, etc. style use. Two different chassis. You are correct Ford does not know how the RV manufactures will distribute the weight for the vast amount of brands and models so the anti-sway bar links are set to the outboard hole. The 2021 F-53 RV chassis now has the new 7.3L V-8, larger front and rear anti-sway bars, bushings and links, redesigned front and rear leaf springs and custom tuned Sachs shocks. Disclaimer; I am a Ford engineer. Safe Travels guys.
Thanks for the info! I am really looking forward to test driving the new chassis it sounds like it's going to be a winner!
I just ask the question about torque setting that you!
I have the 2021 f53 chassis with the v8. Since it’s been redesigned should I just leave as is? I do seem to have body roll on highway curves. Makes me uncomfortable.
@@secondmanup, I would leave it as is. On of a few reasons I had the LiquidSpring suspension system installed on my coach, 2020 HR Vacationer 35K on the Ford F53 chassis. It was a game changer. No body roll, no sway, rough roads, crosswinds, railroad tracks are almost non existent now. I did a few videos on the LiquidSpring 4 corner 5 link system.
The vertical link mentioned @2:11 is not called a "control arm"; it is the stabilizer bar end link.
I stopped my class A from swaying so much.,i divorced my fat ass exwife and it hardly sways after I married a younger hot thin wife. Hope this helps fellas. .ps..saved on groceries and plugged toilets bills to!!
No fat chicks.
We completed chf 17,000 miles ago.
It allows us to drive comfortably with one hand.
Fantastic improvement on handling and movement as semi pass by.
A safe t plus addition is a great complaint.
Hellow Kenny and Sabrina, thank you for sharing the information about the swaybar. Modifying the rear anti-sway bar to match the front swaybar sounds like a winner....
Hi Mark, long time no see. Yes I think this is one of those things I wish I did sooner, just the improvement from the front alone has made a significant difference. Really looking forward to taking the RV out this week and seeing if we notice even more from the rear sway bar
Both Ford and Winnebago strongly advise NOT to reposition the locator nuts and bolts on the sway bars. They say this new position puts way too much strain on the end links causing them to prematurely snap. Would like to hear any real world experiences.
Awesome! This is good to know when I get mine... 👍👍👍
Hi Yacklounge, I wish we would have done this sooner, made a huge difference on and off the road
I did the cheap handling fix (CHP) a couple months after we bought our 2015 Vista (F53). It helped A LOT and I think you’ll be very happy long term. Great video - easy to understand. BTW - I used a floor jack to get the second side up. Steve
Hi Steve, I think this is one of those things I should have done a long time ago, lol. I'm looking forward to seeing if we notice any more improvement on the road from the doing the rear. I saw in forums and videos that people used a floor jack to help get the bar in position. I unfortunately do not own. Take care and safe travels!
Thanks for the information.
Did this last year (front) before our month long trip out west. Along with the safe-t-plus addition. The 2 together made a huge difference. Would highly recommended both and if you have a mild skillset, you can do them both yourself. Good stuff Kenny!!
Hi Chris, in my original cut of the video i talk about our Safe T Plus bar, but felt it made the video too long and a bit off topic. We love the Safe T Plus bar and highly recommended it to everyone who owns a Class A Motorhome gas or diesel. Take care and safe travels!
First I've ever heard of this. But it makes sense. I think I'm going to give it a try.
Hi Aubrey, it is a very simple diy job and so far so good for us. There are videos that go into more detail of how to make the adjustments. If you do decide to do it yourself and run into a problem send me a comment and I'll try and help out
That is as good a explanation as I have heard my friend. Thanks for the mention of me, I do appreciate it. Everything you said is exactly as I researched as well. My thought is, if it’s bad to put it on the inner hole...then why give you the ability to do it. Eliminate the hole... the inner hole really makes the steel weaker structurally when you are not using it so bolting thru it seams theoretically better to me. I have had mine this way for years and years and it does a good job of exactly what you said. Let me know what you think of the benifit when you are out west here with side wind. Peace and hi to Sabrina.
Just did mine last night and about to take it for a test drive. I'll post something here when I get back. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Very cool let us know how it goes. After driving a thousand miles with the rear being done I'm really not sure if it helped much. The front really made a big difference though. Take care and safe travels!
@@MovingForwardAdventures, I did both front and back and it really helped a lot. Found a bad bushing in the back so that was good too. Would’ve missed it if I hadn’t been down there.
That is a good find, I did check out ours while I was under there and heard good things about the neoprene bushings. I think when it's time to replace I might use them. Thanks for giving us your feedback and safe travels!
Nice I’m going to try it
Well haven't heard from you guys in awhile so I want to wish you guys a Merry Christmas and a Happy New year and hope you are doing well and safe so safe travels from Pam and Rick from southern Ohio
Thank you, Pam & Rick. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well. We are doing well and you are right we are long overdue for a video. We are currently in California where Sabrina is bouncing between two different hospitals. I know we have been very quiet here on TH-cam, but we have been sharing photos of our travels on Instagram, I tried to find a link for our Instagram page, but can't figure out how to copy it and share it here. If you have Instagram we are on there under Moving Forward Adventurers as well. We plan on coming back on here soon and doing a live video. Take care and safe travels!
Hello KenBrina, long time no see. Just wanted to drop in to wish you both a very Happy New Year! As always I wish you the very best in 2021 and beyond. I hope the new year continues to keep you Safe, Happy, Healthy and with many more adventures. Take care out there :-)
Hey NoPro, Happy New Year🎉! We are over due for a video, it certainly has been awhile. We are doing well, currently in California where Sabrina is bouncing back and forth at two different hospitals. We will be here for at least month before moving on again. We hope you are doing well and wish you a Happy, Healthy and Safe New Year!
I tried the cheap fix on my F53 and it helped, but in the long run loved the expensive fix way better, installing HD Roadmaster front and rear sway bars. About $2K installed.
We are too cheap to do that lol. In all seriousness we would consider doing that if the RV was younger, we've had it now for almost 4 years and I'm not sure if I'm ready to spend any more on upgrades lol. Take care and safe travels!
It definitely helped me
Hi Kenny and Sabrina. I have heard lots of great things about this mod on the front. I never heard of modifying the rear anti-sway bar. Can't wait to hear if the rear made any difference. I added SumoSprings to the front of my Class C and I can say the difference is night and day. Stay safe my friends, Lou.
Hi Lou, to be honest I had only heard of the front sway bar being done as well until I read one post in the forums. It sent me down a rabbit hole of more research on this lol. I hear only good things about the sumo springs as well. Sabrina says hi back, take care and safe travels!
Thanks , I did the front with very little issues. It did make a difference. Tried to do the rear, the bracket would not flip/spin.
good video, thanks for the info. i will look at my Class A i just purchased to see if i have that option, without buying aftermarket parts.
As an engineer I always questioned this. It was very popular about the time this video was made but I always thought if it was safe it would have come that way from the factory. Since this time I have heard of a lot of people that did this ending up with broken sway bars. If you wand to combat sway please don't do this save your money and buy the aftermarket sway bars that are made to fix this issue.
I had read about doing this and hear the rear was harder and maybe a job for a mechanic to do. Good to know that both can be done at home. I may have our son look at ours. We talked about Safe T Plus, which is here in GA and you can stay overnight on the property. I also heard about SteerSafe and that looks like a much more stabile piece of equipment. I have the videos marked for hubby to watch. I want to say SteerSafe is in OK or somewhere out that way. I don't even know the prices of either of these but TH-cam videos make the change look promising. Be safe! HUGS~Donna
Good morning Donna, we have only good things to say about the Safe T Plus bar. It was one of the first things we installed on our RV and highly recommend it for every class A motorhome gas or diesel. I do not know too much about the other company. I would say if your son is going to do the front sway bar for you he will easily be able to do the rear as well, they were not that much different. Good luck and safe travels!
@@MovingForwardAdventures Will Safe T Plus bar fit 1985 Chevy Winnibago motorhome with P30 chassis? Thanks for taking time to answer!
Always great info and practical. Obviously Ford put the additional holes already in the bracket. Hope Doc is doing well and staying safe.
She is doing well! She has the weekend off and we are at a nice campground with decent weather we'll do some grilling today and start up a campfire. I agree about the additional holes, if they weren't meant to be used they wouldn't be there. Take care and safe travels
As you can see at the rear, the additional holes are for a bracket (not used at the front), not for adjustment.
I have never had a MH on a Ford chassis but know many people who do and have done this. I also know several who added the Safe-t-plus steering stabilizer on as well and recommended that to Dave from RN - RV Chronicles shortly after they got their RV. I thought he'd appreciate any help with his bad back. Roadmaster also makes one as well a Blue Ox. Great for cross winds and semis passing you.
Hi Roy, long time no see. Yes we do have the Safe T Plus bar and totally stand behind it. We feel it is a .use gave for any class A. Take care and safe travels!
The Z-bracket on the rear, shown @6:46, is presumably the reason for the two holes in the stabilizer bar... not to allow it to be misused with a different motion ratio, but to mount the bracket to increase the strength of the end link connection under the higher forces at the rear axle.
Kenny I enjoy all your videos you guys are great! Where are you guys going four thousand miles? Be safe enjoy
Hi Melo, thanks! We are going to Virginia then to Texas then to California then to Arizona then back to California again all for Sabrina's work. It works out to be closer to 3800 miles, but 4,000 sounded better lol
Good basic info. How about video of you driving and experiences on the 600 mile trip. Let's experience with you the visibility, the shake rattles and rolls while driving. Let me sit in the drivers seat...just a thought😀
I had the same problem with my ford f53 chassis due to replacing my tires with softer radial tires. The F53 has the typical ford longleaf spring. I went through several Expensive stabilizing commercial fixes that didn't work. I came across an article that said to add extra leaf springs to the ones there I did this and fixed the problem cost $1600 but cheap compared to the $3k that I had already spent. which didnt work.
Did you have to torque it ? If so , what was the torque settings?
Moving the bolts on the front sway bar, have you noticed a difference in trying to level the rig. I cannot level ours unless I shim the lift and move the front wheels off the ground.
I tried to do the rear bracket but it doesn’t come apart to flip around. Has anyone even able to resolve this?
Hi great video, I am going to give this a try.We are going from NY to FL next month and this hope this corrects that issue. Do you know if there is a torque spec for those bolts. Thank you
Hi Joe, I think you will be happy with the adjustment. Make sure the RV is level when you make the adjustment, it will make it easier to slide the bolts in and out. I believe the correct torque setting is 66 ft lbs If you don't like the ride afterwards, it's pretty easy to change back to stock again. If you think of please let me know what you thought of the changes after your trip.
did you lubricate your bushings while you had things apart?
Just newly seeing this (6/2024) and wondering if anybody has had any failures? I have seen many put on the newer bigger antisway bars along with new shocks and sumo springs(?) Has anybody done that and has results?
Nice video, thanks. Do you know the proper torque to use when putting the bolts back on?
Also, as you said, this option will reduce the side-to-side sway of the top of the body (tilt, if you will). I also find that in my 2016 Winnebago Vista LX, the front end had a VERY large amount of play in the steering wheel. This is VERY tiring to drive. I added a "Safe-T-Plus" steering damper. This has improved (reduced) the steering wheel play considerably, but the amount of play is still too great - it's still a taxing drive. Any ideas how the steering wheel play could be reduced even further?
LOL, I just notice The Casual RVer post below, saying the torque should be 66 ft-lb. I really have to read other posts before posting!
If you have play in the steering a spring and damper clamped crudely onto the tie rod is not the solution. The steering box has some adjustment for free play. That box, or excessive play in the joints, would be the cause of free play in the steering, and an add-on device does not fix that problem.
Please let me know your thoughts on Timbrend springs and safety plus steering stabilizer? How did the rear cheap fix work and is it still working out good .
Hey Bryon, I am not familiar with Timbrend springs, but if they are anything like Sumo Springs then I say get them. The Sumo Springs greatly reduced the side to side sway in my RV. Safe T Plus bar has been the best item I purchased for the handling of our RV and I put the rear handling fix back to it's stock postion as I felt it made the ride too stiff, I'm actually thinking about putting the front back to stock as well for the same reason. Hope the info helps!
I installed Safety Plus and the upgraded rear anti sway bar on my 2014 Itasca Sunstar and they made a huge difference… should I try the “cheap handling fix” on the front sway bat too?
Hi Theodore, I would be surprised if you noticed a difference with the handling fix since you upgraded your rear sway bar. I can say that I undid the rear handling fix because I felt it made the RV feel too stiff and you could always try the front handling fix and easily reverse it if you didn't like it. You are probably good to go though
Does this work on 90’s F53 chassis?
I have 1999 Winnebago ADVENTURER I did it, works great. I reversed the "z" brackets just to add a little more support.
Thanks for the video. Are you guys in FC? My daughter swears up and down she just saw you....
Lol, I'm sorry to say it wasn't us, we were driving through Alabama today. Glad you enjoyed the video!
you may start snapping sway bar links as they are not designed to operate at that angle and extra load
-I guess thihs will not work for Chevy P30 chassis used in 1975-1999 motorhomes?
Hi Temir, no I don't believe it will work. I think this is only an adjustment on the Ford Chassis, but you should be able to find a safe t plus bar or sumo springs to fit your RV
How has this worked out? Any issues? I was thinking about doing it to my 2019 F53
Hi Orlando, we have had no problems with this setup at all. I think we have gone over 30,000 miles now. I'm not sure if I mention it in this video or not, but I did put the rear bars back in the stock position, I thought it was too stiff after driving it for a while.
Any more videos coming up?
Hi J, I've been trying to wait for Sabrina to have time and sit down with me to do another video, but her work schedule has been pretty ridiculous lately. I'll make one without her though and give an update on the sway bar adjustment, we really liked the front bar being adjusted, but changes the rear sway bar back to stock. In high winds we felt like we were being pushed more than usual hope all is well, take care and safe travels
Hi Kenny, thank you for making this one. I recently purchased (Jan 2021) my very first RV and it is a 2021 Class A Fleetwood 29m. Driving it around the area to local campgrounds through city traffic is a breeze. But on the hwy it is white knuckles the entire time. I am blown all over the road and don’t feel safe at all. Since I have purchased it, I have had a front end alignment as well as the Safe T Plus bar installed and it sill feels terrible to drive. I am curious how you felt after you adjusted the sway bars on the front and the back. I am ready to trade it in or sell it. I actually dread getting on a hwy. thanks for any insight.
Hi Troy, I'm sorry to hear the Safe T plus did not make much of a difference that is usually the first thing I tell people to change, because we had such good luck with it. I feel the front to sway bar adjustment made a huge difference in our ride during ccornerining and coming off and on exit ramps. It helped a small amount with wind. I don't feel the rear sway bar adjustment helped anything at all and wound up putting the rear back to stock. Do you have the new V8 engine and chassis? I think that chassis is set up differently than the prior years and may not have the the ability to do a sway bar adjustment. I hope the info helps.
Thanks Kenny, I wondered if the Safe T Plus bar was installed correctly. I dropped it off and they said it can take a week to get one of the clamps but then they called the next day and said it was ready. I highly doubt they drove it to make any adjustments. I am going to have that checked out. Also yes. I do have the V8
I feel the same way, getting pushed on the highway sucks. if I cant get a better highway ride, I am selling it . and buying one of the van types. maybe. :] I have a 2022 vision 30 ft with the v-8
Are those swaybars on my class C too? It's a new to us 2009 E450 31 ft.
Hi David, you should have the swaybars, but I'm not sure if you will have the adjustable links.
What about the rubber part with the extra stress
I have talked to Ford & other mechanics, they don't feel it is an issue. If you are thinking of doing this modification, I would still ask your local mechanic or whomever does work on your RV, it doesn't hurt to get more opinions on it.
I don’t have that option on my 2022 Invicta.
Hi Frank, it's because in 2021 Ford changed the motor and chassis for their RV platforms. So now you can not do the cheap handling fix on them, but they are supposedly a much better riding and handling vehicle from stock.
The answer to the question @8:06 (why doesn't Ford do this) is not that they expect anyone to change it. The chassis is not used for food trucks (that's the F59) or anything else other than a moving house, and the chassis is ordered with a specific gross vehicle weight rating - currently Ford offers several versions from 16,000 to 26,000 pounds - and a rational RV manufacturer buys the version matched to their unit's loaded weight, so the loaded weight is not a mystery. The "cheap handling fix" modification results in an unsuitable angle of the end link (at least on the front), so Ford clearly does not intend anyone to use the wrong hole in the bar.
UnSuitable angle?.. Define, UnSuitable.. Different angle, yes. Does it reduce the strength, the lifespan of the part?.. Yes. Are you likely to notice it? No. Changing it to Firm, produces a Lot of improvement. People have been doing it for 8-12 years. Draw your own conclusions.
You just defined unsuitable: reducing the strength and lifespan of the part; I would add it reduces the effectiveness.
I have drawn my own conclusions,@@billbrigham9959, and in this case "cheap" is clearly crap.
Would this also help the motorhome from swaying so much?
Hi Zoo keeper it will help reduce the overall side to side sway of the RV being so top heavy, but we also found it made our rode a rougher. We recently put our handling fix back to stock and bought Sumo Springs. They were obviously not cheap, but they did help with the sway and improved the ride quality as well
I’ve heard of those sumo springs! Did you get the ones for the front and the back or just the front?
At the moment I only did the front and they made a big improvement, I am planning on doing the rear as well in November. I like doing one thing at a time to really see what makes the difference.
Correct - "sway bar" makes no sense, although it is commonly used informally. Correct terms include anti-sway bar, and "stabilizer bar"; vehicle manufacturers (including Ford) usually use "stabilizer bar".
Only for Ford Chassis?
Yes only Ford makes Class A gas chassis. Other manufacturers like Chevy did make Class A RV's, but not anymore, I believe Ford has been the only company making a chassis for Class A gas RV for the last ten years maybe longer.
@@MovingForwardAdventures The GM P-chassis was offered for motorhomes until the product line was purchased by Workhorse in 1998, who then offered it until the product was discontinued... yes, about ten years ago.
So any updates?
Hi Rollong Thunder, here is update video, but it's kind of long th-cam.com/video/GsQ8hIt9Rz8/w-d-xo.html
Basically I really like the handling from adjusting the front sway bar, but didn’t care for the rear adjustment and put the rear back in its stock position. I think the best way I could describe it is it felt a bit too stiff and sensitive to me.
@@MovingForwardAdventures so the sway bar links didn't break? That's what I hear happens just curious?
No problems at all, never heard of this happening from just making this adjustment.
I remember watching the "Endless RVing" couple do this mod. It was so painful watching them jack the end of the "Anti" sway bar, because they didn't disconnect the other side. I sat there yelling at my tv - "Don't you realize what you're doing." Watching them fight with it, and it was looking more dangerous by the minute. That amazing lack of common sense dropped their credibility a few notches, and ended my subscription.
Not a good decision as this over stresses the linkage. You always hear the good stuff, never when it gies wrong…
The modified position of the connection shown @2:18 results in the end link being at an inappropriate angle, which is clearly visible in this image.
Again, define Inappropriate. Different? Yes. Inappropriate? Why? ToeMaytoe, ToeMaToe
The geometry of the mechanism is wrong with the end link at the wrong angle... and you know that,@@billbrigham9959
Gee, Mr. Wizard, what are you going to tell peeps when their links snap from being installed on a steep angle? That will leave them as if they never had an anti-sway bar and possibly damaging another part, maybe even a brake line, a power steering hose, etc. But it's all in fun and you get to make your 12 cents while putting peeps, their friends and families at risk, right?
Carl, stop trying to scare people. Go look at the assembly in question. Tell me, how will A breaking, cause B to fail?.. IF it were to break, and Yes, there is one documented instance of an endlink breaking BUT.. that instance does not state it's because someone changed the stabilizer bar setting from Soft > Firm. You worry about another asteroid hitting the planet, most of us that are interested in doing this have done it or will. NObody has had a documented crash due to the endlink failing, or even a documented failure of the link itself.
Don't do this. Too much stress. Cheep = better. Failure can occur as you are driving. Buy a bigger sway bar and Sumo Springs. If you can't afford these upgrades - you can't afford to RV
Yes, failure Might occur while driving, that's true. The planet Might get hit by another asteroid and kill us all off too. You worry bout your issues.
Does this change increase the load, the shear force to the endlink? Yes. Is it anything to worry about? What do you think about asteroids?..
You're missing the bigger point. So enjoy losing control and hitting the embankment like an asteroid due to being cheap. @@billbrigham9959
on the surface, this seems like a foolish modification, like most 'shade tree' mechanic mods. The strain on the end link may prove to be too much resulting in a fracture.
And Vail, do tell, what exactly would happen If one of the links Did snap?.. DO you know?.. Not, a Lot.. The vehicle would lose it's ability to stabilize the Front end. It would get your attention but in and off itself, the RV won't blow up. I wouldn't Choose to drive it like that, but I wouldn't be scared of it either. Until 45 years ago, many passenger cars didn't have sway bars, at all. Most performance cars, yes. Does a vehicle handle better with them? Of course. But not required. Power brakes, power steering, power windows, cell phones, SAT TV, all things many people Say they Have to have, can't live without.. Anyway. My .02