I have the exact same tiller, with the exact same problem with the oil leak. I think your video shows me everything that I need to do, and some things to avoid!!!!! I have been dreading doing this, but the oil is getting expensive to keep dumping it on the floor or ground somewhere. And your video helps take some of the fear out of the job.
I have a King Kutter rototiller just like this one, and I need to replace my seals just like you did, but without all the mistakes~!!~!!! The first thing I will do is connect it to my farm tractor so I can control it. I do appreciate your video, and it gave me the courage to do my own seal replacement. It seems a shame to have to completely disassemble the entire gear box to replace those two small seals.
I did get the hub off. I tightened the gear puller as tight as I could. I sprayed liquid wrench several times and let it sit overnight. Next day I took a 3 lbs hammer to the back side of the hub. Pound, rotate the hub, pound, rotate, pound. The hub slowly released and I kept tension on the gear puller. The was some rust on the shaft that I believe was keeping the hub frozen. I recommend using a press to install the 2 oil seals into the hub. Slow and steady wins the race.
Thanks for your video. I just had the same problem and your video helped me getting it done. However, I did not realize there were two oil seals so I will have to do mine again when I get the second seal. The parts list did not show that two seals were needed and I missed that on your video.
What about Dillon's hand? The whole video was useful in allowing me to see what I was getting into. The best thing I got out of this was how easy it would be to let this heavy piece of machinery to get away from you. So be careful!
@@BrollBrothersProductions You were extremely lucky you didn't break your hand! You did your tiller seal replacement in 3 hours, tomorrow will be day 3 for me, hopefully I finish.
Your video has been very helpful for me!! I have the same tiller. Mine needs a new top gear but I can't find anything online for parts and the tag for the model number is gone so I don't even know what to look up. If you can provide any information I would appreciate it!!!
Here is a response from another comment but should help with finding any parts: I think this is the manual you can look for the part numbers: www.kingkutter.com/images/uploaded/FlatTopTillerManual.pdf I think these are the seals: www.kingkutter.com/505017-double-lip-seal-set-tiller But if I recall correctly we got ours on ebay or amazon once we had the part #. There is also this page but it seems to only have the major assemblies not the individual subcomponents: www.kingkutter.com/rotary-tillers If all those fail I would call them and ask.
Here is a response from another comment but should help with finding any parts: I think this is the manual you can look for the part numbers: www.kingkutter.com/images/uploaded/FlatTopTillerManual.pdf I think these are the seals: www.kingkutter.com/505017-double-lip-seal-set-tiller But if I recall correctly we got ours on ebay or amazon once we had the part #. There is also this page but it seems to only have the major assemblies not the individual subcomponents: www.kingkutter.com/rotary-tillers If all those fail I would call them and ask.
Have you every pulled the non drive hub assembly? My bearings are shot and wondering if I need to completely remove the tine shaft to get that hub assembly off. ???
Question. You made pulling the hub off look so easy. I have used an 8 inch 3 pronged gear puller and the hub and bearing will not come off. Do you have any advice on how best to remove a hub/bearing that won't break free?
Ours came off really easy. A few questions: Have you soaked the shaft with PB blaster? Is your gear puller slipping off as you tighten? I have seen some people remove them by beating on em, have you tried a sledge hammer with a block of wood in between?
@@BrollBrothersProductions I have soaked it with Liquid Wrench. I can buy some PB blaster if you think that is better. The gear puller is staying put. I tried tightening the puller with an electric impact wrench and nothing. I am worried I will damage the bearing because I am not sure if the hub is putting pressure on the inner collar of the bearing or only the outer collar. Thanks for your reply!
Happy to help. I think liquid wrench is as good as PB blaster so that shouldn't do anything better. The hub is quite thick so I would think the pressure would be evenly distributed. Depending on the size of your impact I could see it not having enough power, my cordless tiny impact couldn't spin it until the end. I would try a good size ratchet and see if that can get it to move. If it seems like that isn't going to work the next thing I would do is add some heat. Torch the hub for a little but and try again
Were you able to ever get your hub off? We are doing this exact thing today and running into the same problem of it won’t budge with the gear puller. Looking for any tricks that might help the process.
@@sschneider2259 use some heat on the gear , then draw the heat out of theshaft immediately while staurating with motor oil-not penetraing oil--too thin it will boil off. rinse and repeat a few times then go after it withe gear puller with some more heating of the gear, trying not to heat the shaft.
I think this is the manual you can look for the part numbers: www.kingkutter.com/images/uploaded/FlatTopTillerManual.pdf I think these are the seals: www.kingkutter.com/505017-double-lip-seal-set-tiller But if I recall correctly we got ours on ebay or amazon once we had the part #. There is also this page but it seems to only have the major assemblies not the individual subcomponents: www.kingkutter.com/rotary-tillers If all those fail I would call them and ask.
Can this be done w/o taking the whole gearbox off? by knocking down the offside bearing and housing , taking the power-side lower bearing hub loose and shifting the entire shaft to the off-side to get at the drive side hub/bearing /seal? you would still have to take the gear box cover off to get at the bolt in the end of the lower gear. Seems like you could get the entire tiller shaft shifted to the off-side to get enough working room to pull the drive-side hub/bearing housing?
No. The hub has to come completely off the shaft to get to the seals. The hub is bolted to the gear case. What ever else you try is going to be time consuming and ultimately futile. Every piece is heavy and hard to maneuver.
I have been looking for a video like yours for months and finally, today, I found yours. This has been very helpful.
Thank you for including even the non perfect events.
I had been needing to do this repair for some time now as well. Thanks for the video. Very helpful and I was able to get it done.
I have the exact same tiller, with the exact same problem with the oil leak. I think your video shows me everything that I need to do, and some things to avoid!!!!! I have been dreading doing this, but the oil is getting expensive to keep dumping it on the floor or ground somewhere. And your video helps take some of the fear out of the job.
It wasn’t fun but it’s very doable, good luck. Ours was leaking too bad to try filling it to run it, that gearbox oil isn’t cheap!
I’ve got a king cutter 6 footer and it’s going to need this before long. Thanks!
Great video and even better timing. Boy, did I need some help.
Thanks. Cliff in rocky Northern Minnesota
I have a King Kutter rototiller just like this one, and I need to replace my seals just like you did, but without all the mistakes~!!~!!! The first thing I will do is connect it to my farm tractor so I can control it. I do appreciate your video, and it gave me the courage to do my own seal replacement. It seems a shame to have to completely disassemble the entire gear box to replace those two small seals.
Agreed the design could certainly be better for maintenance but glad we could help.
Thanks for the video. Barbwire got into mine.
I did get the hub off. I tightened the gear puller as tight as I could. I sprayed liquid wrench several times and let it sit overnight. Next day I took a 3 lbs hammer to the back side of the hub. Pound, rotate the hub, pound, rotate, pound. The hub slowly released and I kept tension on the gear puller. The was some rust on the shaft that I believe was keeping the hub frozen. I recommend using a press to install the 2 oil seals into the hub. Slow and steady wins the race.
Thanks for your video. I just had the same problem and your video helped me getting it done. However, I did not realize there were two oil seals so I will have to do mine again when I get the second seal. The parts list did not show that two seals were needed and I missed that on your video.
What about Dillon's hand? The whole video was useful in allowing me to see what I was getting into. The best thing I got out of this was how easy it would be to let this heavy piece of machinery to get away from you. So be careful!
It was bruised up for a week, never had any problems with it. But certainly do this on the machine to be safe, didn’t feel great lol
How's the hand? Did it get broken? Great video! I'm now doing my seals.
@@OutDoorFun3 It was bruised up for a week, never had any problems with it. Just got a good squish lol
@@BrollBrothersProductions You were extremely lucky you didn't break your hand! You did your tiller seal replacement in 3 hours, tomorrow will be day 3 for me, hopefully I finish.
@@OutDoorFun3 good luck
Your video has been very helpful for me!! I have the same tiller. Mine needs a new top gear but I can't find anything online for parts and the tag for the model number is gone so I don't even know what to look up. If you can provide any information I would appreciate it!!!
Here is a response from another comment but should help with finding any parts:
I think this is the manual you can look for the part numbers: www.kingkutter.com/images/uploaded/FlatTopTillerManual.pdf
I think these are the seals: www.kingkutter.com/505017-double-lip-seal-set-tiller
But if I recall correctly we got ours on ebay or amazon once we had the part #. There is also this page but it seems to only have the major assemblies not the individual subcomponents: www.kingkutter.com/rotary-tillers
If all those fail I would call them and ask.
@@BrollBrothersProductions Thank you that is exactly what i needed. much appreciated!!!!
Where did you find your parts?
Here is a response from another comment but should help with finding any parts:
I think this is the manual you can look for the part numbers: www.kingkutter.com/images/uploaded/FlatTopTillerManual.pdf
I think these are the seals: www.kingkutter.com/505017-double-lip-seal-set-tiller
But if I recall correctly we got ours on ebay or amazon once we had the part #. There is also this page but it seems to only have the major assemblies not the individual subcomponents: www.kingkutter.com/rotary-tillers
If all those fail I would call them and ask.
Have you every pulled the non drive hub assembly? My bearings are shot and wondering if I need to completely remove the tine shaft to get that hub assembly off. ???
No unfortunately just took this side apart.
❤❤
Thank you! Where did you get the seals? the King Kutter site kinda sucks.
Don’t remember for sure I think eBay, possibly Amazon
Question. You made pulling the hub off look so easy. I have used an 8 inch 3 pronged gear puller and the hub and bearing will not come off. Do you have any advice on how best to remove a hub/bearing that won't break free?
Ours came off really easy.
A few questions: Have you soaked the shaft with PB blaster? Is your gear puller slipping off as you tighten?
I have seen some people remove them by beating on em, have you tried a sledge hammer with a block of wood in between?
@@BrollBrothersProductions I have soaked it with Liquid Wrench. I can buy some PB blaster if you think that is better. The gear puller is staying put. I tried tightening the puller with an electric impact wrench and nothing. I am worried I will damage the bearing because I am not sure if the hub is putting pressure on the inner collar of the bearing or only the outer collar. Thanks for your reply!
Happy to help.
I think liquid wrench is as good as PB blaster so that shouldn't do anything better.
The hub is quite thick so I would think the pressure would be evenly distributed. Depending on the size of your impact I could see it not having enough power, my cordless tiny impact couldn't spin it until the end. I would try a good size ratchet and see if that can get it to move.
If it seems like that isn't going to work the next thing I would do is add some heat. Torch the hub for a little but and try again
Were you able to ever get your hub off? We are doing this exact thing today and running into the same problem of it won’t budge with the gear puller. Looking for any tricks that might help the process.
@@sschneider2259 use some heat on the gear , then draw the heat out of theshaft immediately while staurating with motor oil-not penetraing oil--too thin it will boil off. rinse and repeat a few times then go after it withe gear puller with some more heating of the gear, trying not to heat the shaft.
Where did you order the seals and the bearing?
I honestly don’t recall I think I got the part numbers from king kutter’s website and then bought from eBay or Amazon
I'm having a hard time finding the bushings. Do you have a part number or any info on how to get them.
I think this is the manual you can look for the part numbers: www.kingkutter.com/images/uploaded/FlatTopTillerManual.pdf
I think these are the seals: www.kingkutter.com/505017-double-lip-seal-set-tiller
But if I recall correctly we got ours on ebay or amazon once we had the part #. There is also this page but it seems to only have the major assemblies not the individual subcomponents: www.kingkutter.com/rotary-tillers
If all those fail I would call them and ask.
@@BrollBrothersProductions thank you!
How long did it take you, start to finish?
Without filming probably about a 3 hour job.
@@BrollBrothersProductions thanks! Good video. Mine is leaking as well and wasn’t sure what kind of job i was about to get into. Thanks again.
Can this be done w/o taking the whole gearbox off? by knocking down the offside bearing and housing , taking the power-side lower bearing hub loose and shifting the entire shaft to the off-side to get at the drive side hub/bearing /seal? you would still have to take the gear box cover off to get at the bolt in the end of the lower gear. Seems like you could get the entire tiller shaft shifted to the off-side to get enough working room to pull the drive-side hub/bearing housing?
Maybe?, if you try it report back if it works and saved you time
No. The hub has to come completely off the shaft to get to the seals. The hub is bolted to the gear case. What ever else you try is going to be time consuming and ultimately futile. Every piece is heavy and hard to maneuver.
I started doing this and it does not work. Going to pull the gear box