To me it’s the only way to go ! You can get a drill disc but that technically doesn’t fix the problem The new hub with bigger tabs fit into the stock disc nice and tight and even if there was a little play THOSE THICK ASS tabs are not breaking, just look at that piece
Great work dude. But you skipped the adjustment of your bad timing.. I remove the exhaust hub and everything and then i need to move the exhaust-camshaft in position right? And what is with the marks then?
Adjustment of timing If timing alignment is found to be incorrect, perform following procedure to adjust timing. Timing adjustment procedure presumes engine position at end of timing checking; crankshaft at TDC with lock pin removed, intake and exhaust camshaft cylinder 1 cams pointing in to each other at ~45 degree angle. Perform timing adjustment for camshaft(s) with incorrect timing alignment. Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2" / 1/2” long-arm ratchet & short extension). Loosen sprocket hub 3 top mounting bolts (10mm ratcheting wrench). Note: Bolts need to be notably loose so once opposite side 3 bolts are loosened hub will be free. Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2" / 1/2” long-arm ratchet & short extension). Adjust crankshaft pulley to precisely align TDC timing marks (crankshaft turning socket 1/2" / 1/2” long-arm ratchet & short extension). Install crankshaft locking pin in timing cover bracket hole. Fully retard camshaft timing. Place open wrench (24mm combo wrench) on camshaft hex at front of camshaft. Rotate camshaft counter clockwise to adjustment end position. If camshaft resistant to rotation rock camshaft back and forth to release seize. Note: Camshaft rotation is most effective when standing at exhaust side of car. Note: Splined shaft can be seen protruding from sprocket hub front when camshaft is at adjustment end position. Loosen sprocket hub 3 top mounting bolts (10mm ratcheting wrench). Note: All sprocket hub bolts are now loose. Install vanos alignment bridge without alignment dowel on engine head between cylinders 2 & 3. Note: Bridge has intake and exhaust orientation. Note: E is intake and A is exhaust in German. Insert bridge alignment dowel through bridge hole and insert dowel into camshaft alignment hole. Note: Lift up bridge intake or exhaust end as necessary to align and insert dowel into camshaft hole. Rotate camshaft at hex between cylinder 1 & 2 to align camshaft alignment hole perpendicular to engine head and allow bridge ends to sit on engine head (24mm open wrench). Fully insert bridge dowel into camshaft and onto bridge. Turn and press down dowel as needed to fully insert. Place hand on middle of bridge and rock camshaft back and forth to identify and set camshaft in position where bridge intake and exhaust ends are sitting flat on engine head. Remove alignment dowel and bridge. Follow above procedure starting at step just after mounting and tightening all vanos mounting bolts. Perform sprocket hub bolt tightening only for adjusted camshaft(s).
My exhaust hub broke completely and cause the top of my valve cover to crack which led to a oil leak but I caught it early , do you think I need to replace the tensioner guide and oil pump disc ? I’m also replacing the exhaust and intake cam gears . My fear is the pieces of the valve possible fell into the engine from the vanos unit , we haven’t taken off the vanos unit as yet so I don’t really know for sure but it’s definitely pieces inside the vanos for sure
Great video! Recently got a z4m coupe 68k miles on it. No vanos codes or rattles but does have hesitation untill 3k rpms. I was quoted 2,400 parts and labor for full vanos rebuild. Does that sound reasonable?
Sounds about right considering you're going through a shop. Just the hub alone was about $600, and then the seal kit to do the entire job correctly along with labor, sounds about right. As long as it's a reputable shop! Sorry for the slow reply, we were just notified of your comment. -Eugene
Nice video but kind of cringe. Remember steps you take to limit issues like paper towels in any place something can drop into the engine. Having the right tools really helps. Atleast you had the timing pin guide. Hope your car is doing well.
@@YEVSBUILDS I have an 03 stage 3 Dinan registered, manual convertible. I love it but selling it soon. Glad to hear the car is doing well mine has 132k
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To me it’s the only way to go !
You can get a drill disc but that technically doesn’t fix the problem
The new hub with bigger tabs fit into the stock disc nice and tight and even if there was a little play THOSE THICK ASS tabs are not breaking, just look at that piece
Amazing video bro. Thanks for the info. Now I think I can do it myself
I'm real glad these videos can help someone. Hope it all works out!
Great work dude.
But you skipped the adjustment of your bad timing..
I remove the exhaust hub and everything and then i need to move the exhaust-camshaft in position right? And what is with the marks then?
Adjustment of timing
If timing alignment is found to be incorrect, perform following procedure to adjust timing.
Timing adjustment procedure presumes engine position at end of timing checking; crankshaft at TDC with lock pin removed, intake and exhaust camshaft cylinder 1 cams pointing in to each other at ~45 degree angle.
Perform timing adjustment for camshaft(s) with incorrect timing alignment.
Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2" / 1/2” long-arm ratchet & short extension).
Loosen sprocket hub 3 top mounting bolts (10mm ratcheting wrench). Note: Bolts need to be notably loose so once opposite side 3 bolts are loosened hub will be free.
Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2" / 1/2” long-arm ratchet & short extension).
Adjust crankshaft pulley to precisely align TDC timing marks (crankshaft turning socket 1/2" / 1/2” long-arm ratchet & short extension).
Install crankshaft locking pin in timing cover bracket hole.
Fully retard camshaft timing.
Place open wrench (24mm combo wrench) on camshaft hex at front of camshaft.
Rotate camshaft counter clockwise to adjustment end position. If camshaft resistant to rotation rock camshaft back and forth to release seize.
Note: Camshaft rotation is most effective when standing at exhaust side of car.
Note: Splined shaft can be seen protruding from sprocket hub front when camshaft is at adjustment end position.
Loosen sprocket hub 3 top mounting bolts (10mm ratcheting wrench).
Note: All sprocket hub bolts are now loose.
Install vanos alignment bridge without alignment dowel on engine head between cylinders 2 & 3.
Note: Bridge has intake and exhaust orientation. Note: E is intake and A is exhaust in German.
Insert bridge alignment dowel through bridge hole and insert dowel into camshaft alignment hole.
Note: Lift up bridge intake or exhaust end as necessary to align and insert dowel into camshaft hole.
Rotate camshaft at hex between cylinder 1 & 2 to align camshaft alignment hole perpendicular to engine head and allow bridge ends to sit on engine head (24mm open wrench).
Fully insert bridge dowel into camshaft and onto bridge. Turn and press down dowel as needed to fully insert.
Place hand on middle of bridge and rock camshaft back and forth to identify and set camshaft in position where bridge intake and exhaust ends are sitting flat on engine head.
Remove alignment dowel and bridge.
Follow above procedure starting at step just after mounting and tightening all vanos mounting bolts.
Perform sprocket hub bolt tightening only for adjusted camshaft(s).
How has your experience been with the VAC Exhaust Hub? I just put one (and the stronger) bolts in my M3.
It's been great. Ever since I've installed it, I had no issues.
My exhaust hub broke completely and cause the top of my valve cover to crack which led to a oil leak but I caught it early , do you think I need to replace the tensioner guide and oil pump disc ? I’m also replacing the exhaust and intake cam gears . My fear is the pieces of the valve possible fell into the engine from the vanos unit , we haven’t taken off the vanos unit as yet so I don’t really know for sure but it’s definitely pieces inside the vanos for sure
Great video! Recently got a z4m coupe 68k miles on it. No vanos codes or rattles but does have hesitation untill 3k rpms.
I was quoted 2,400 parts and labor for full vanos rebuild. Does that sound reasonable?
Sounds about right considering you're going through a shop. Just the hub alone was about $600, and then the seal kit to do the entire job correctly along with labor, sounds about right. As long as it's a reputable shop!
Sorry for the slow reply, we were just notified of your comment.
-Eugene
Nice video but kind of cringe. Remember steps you take to limit issues like paper towels in any place something can drop into the engine. Having the right tools really helps. Atleast you had the timing pin guide. Hope your car is doing well.
Yeah man, the M3 is my daily. Still running strong at 108k miles so far. I appreciate the concern
@@YEVSBUILDS I have an 03 stage 3 Dinan registered, manual convertible. I love it but selling it soon. Glad to hear the car is doing well mine has 132k