I ended up moving it to just behind the grill. One time it got to hot and shut down, that was enough for me to change it. Only took an hour or so once I got a bracket from ARB for $73..
@@alanthomas3690 Possibly, It was ARB, but if I add the time to make one, laser cut it out, bent it up, power coat it etc, I couldn't get close to $70.. This just bolted in, and I was back up and running in 1 hour Max with all the rewiring.
Remember to use good quality fuses on all battery connections (stops your car being a fire hazard in an accident) and the BCDC should be as close as possible to the Aux battery.
Good stuff. I'm in the US and planning on a dual battery system for my Toyota Tundra. The Tundra lacks space in the engine bay for a 2nd battery so mine will go in the truck bed so my cable runs will be longer. But your video was still a good wealth of information. Thanks and a lot of us here in the states really envy you guys down under as in many respects your are writing the book and we're benefitting from your great work.
With lead acid the biggest you can officially fit, and the biggest the ARB tray will allow is 85 AH. This is what I was running. But I have change to lithium, and I have a 100AH lithium that is the same size, and fits the tray. The lithium is a game changer, and I have some videos on the channel that go over tis change to lithium and the installation. I have also change the location of the Redarc to in front of the radiator, as on one trip it did get to hot and stopped charging. I changed it when I got home from the trip.
Hi again , I’ve now got a 2012 - 150 TD and taken all my salvaged bits of my written off 120 , BCDC going back on the fuse box and will put my ( found in the shed BSI2 ) on also , I’ve noticed I can’t get a 300 mm second battery in because of the aircon Ali tubing , I’m getting a battery tray for a 150 and they say you can move the tubing over to clear the battery and re clamp the pipe being carefully not to let it touch anything , wondering if you did this or a smaller battery? Thanks once again Alan.
I just used the ARB tray that only allows for the smaller (85 AH battery.. Any bigger and you rish cracking the gard on corrugations. I will swap it to Lithium when it dies. They now have Lithium at this physical size, that take the heat, and they are 100 AH..
I also added mine to the front in front of the radiator. I did find that it was getting hot and it would back off charging. On one trip where it was really hot, and I was towing, it backed off that much it would not even keep up with the fridge. So I recommend getting the bracket and mounting it behind the grill.
Thanks for posting this and the temperature information. I’ll be installing my BCDC 1225 in a similar location on my 2018 Lexus GX (4.6 gasser Prado 150 US spec).
Hey JJ, so you have the earth wire “Black” off the charger straight to the vehicle earth point beside the start battery and the same for the aux battery.
I solder most things, and no it doesn’t add resistance, crimping them can if not done correctly.. some people say soldering can make the wire brittle, but I have not had an issue..
Its a Maston Bluetooth voltage logger www.tridon.com.au/products/Matson/4079/304985/battery-accessories/527580/battery-monitoring Available from Auto outlets, Like Supercheap in Australia
Hi JJ Just had same unit fitted to my 2014 Prado also, auto electrician placed it in same position and after reading manual I was concerned about engine bay temperature. Just wondering how yours is travelling and if temperatures have been an issue? Cheers 👍
Mr H I haven’t had an issue. I have a IR thermometer and test it form time to time. It gets to 50 degrees but I haven’t had an issue with it charging. Seems to always change the same. But ideally putting it in a cooler place would be better.
So on the SB12 - where did you run the blue wire off it to ? And where did you run the black (ground ) wire too ? I’ve had just a SB12 alone now installed the BCDC1225D but still want the jump start option too
I actually cant remember. I just followed the wiring diagram RedArc suggested for the set up with a BCDC. I went lithium and removed it so I cant check.. Its sitting on the shelf.
Andrew Dixon I have it all fused or on circuit breakers. I just didn’t have any at the time. Only thing that isnt fused is the charge wire to the second battery. It will be added. I just didn’t have one.
Found this video in my youtube random list as you do :) Enjoyed what you had to say and how you presented, just honest work. I agree about keeping honest the retailers, being in the market soon for a DC2DC I might have that one on my short list at that price, I do like to support local product providing my budget can afford it. You spoke about the voltage diode, which one do you use? Also what brand is that volt/amp/other meter you have? Cheers
I made my own diode with a fuse. Costs a couple of dollars. The clamp meter I got from Altronics, it was about $180. I will have to dig it out to get the brand. Clamp meter www.altronics.com.au/p/q0966-clamp-meter-acdc-true-rms-600a/
Thanks for the easy to understand video, I have just bought the same charger to replace my now not working SBI12 . It has decent size cabeling with fuses on , was thinking to connect BCDC to them cables and if and when nesessary just jump from auxiliary to starter battery, what do you think, I have a 120 Prado, how did you stick down your charger , same place? Regards Alan.
Alan Thomas most people just use jumper leads if they have to. That will work fine. I stuck it down with double sided tape as I didn’t know if I was going to keep it there. I will bolt it through. The Velcro strap just helps keep the lid on and the tape form coming unstuck with the heat. All works really well.
Nice video very informative. I have a 2017 Toyota Tacoma Offroad here in Texas. How do you feel about battery box in the back of a vehicle with dc to dc charger? Your opinion would be appreciated . Thanks
There is no problem with this, but a few things to make sure you get right. Have the DCDC close to the battery in the back. Make sure the battery is fully sealed an can not leak in case of an accident or roll over, and make sure that its tied in well, and will not become a missile in case of an accident. The Lithium batteries are best for this, Lite, no acid.
@@jjsadv I have actually done this exact set up in the back of my Tundra. My only question to you is what am I doing with the Blue LED wire? I did not use the DCDC and instead bought the BMS 30 so the black wire (ground) had to go into the BMS 30 ground port. Any advice would be appreciated.thanks.
Chad Howald I didn’t add any LED. I did have the low voltage alternator wire hooked up, but I disconnected it as I didn’t really need it. It’s works with it connected or disconnected on the Prado.
Great video mate, good information which is very helpful. Wiring in a second battery is the next job on my Ranger. Looks like I've got a trip to Camping4WD! 👍
can you tell me the blue wire off the sbi12 gets connected to the top of the sbi12 aux side and the black earth wire is then connected to a switch which is then earthed and thats it correct
@@carlosprite I had a SBI for a while, worked OK, but batteries didnt last as long, I now have 2 x BCDC in the set up, one on the lead acid battery and one on the lithium.
@@jjsadv just trawling marketplace for a 1225 at the moment, was hoping to set it up in the same config as you on this vid with the bcdc and the sbi 👍🏻 like that you can have both, didn’t know that was a thing until your video 👌🏻
It was originally set up as a Voltage Sensitive Relay, the traditional way you charge and manage a second battery. When i added the BCDC I wanted it to just be a relay to simply link the batteries when I pushed the button, and stop being a VSR. I rewired it to do this.
this is exactly what I need to do to my Pajero as I have the SBI but its not cutting it !! thanks great video, but what is the app you run too test the second battery voltage???
Ordered mine, so I connect the bcdc to the cranking battery at the terminal then route the other wire to the secondary battery at the terminal? The leads from the alternator to battery doesnt connect to the redarc then redarc to batteries like in serial?
Hi JJ just putting my unit in , the blue low voltage wire ? My lights don’t work like yours 09 120 , Can I tap into a relay wire that comes on with ignition or will I have to find another sores of power when ignition turns on Cheers again Alan.
I dont think you will need to use the blue wire. you only do this is you have a low or variable voltage alternator. I actually ended up disconnecting mine as I didnt really need it. On mine you can use it, but you dont have to.
From memory the fuses are 80 or 100 amp inline barrel type. The breaker is on the circuit to the rear, its 80 amp from memory.. I will probably relocate the redarc some day, and I might then use a fuse block arrangement. But I have to find some place to put it. That side is pretty full now.
Yep, Very happy with it. It chargers the battery no slower than the VSR (solenoid) did, and does a better job of getting it fully topped off. I soldered instead of crimping as I will always solder if I can. I find you have less issues down the track with corrosion etc (especially if you can shrink wrap it). Some say it will make the wire brittle and it will snap, but over the years I haven't seen this issue with the work I have done (I was a industrial/heavy diesel mechanic in the past)
Not that I have seen. I carry around a IR thermometer and clamp meters, and have been checking it, the output doesn't seem to change that much. If it does, I will just shift it. It works really well. Better than I expected.
Hello friends. Can you tell me why this is the auxiliary battery which is load by the alternator unless the start battery. Can I do the opposite? Many thanks from Paris
Not fully understanding the question. The Aux battery is changed by the voltage and current from the start battery and alternator. The Alternator isnt connected dorectly to the aux battery. The Redarc DCDC charger is the device that charges the Aux battery.
Hi man,what's your thought on going with the 40A model with an 100Ah lithium battery rated 50A for charge? At Redarc they tell me it's too much but 25A seems slow to me.
@@jjsadv Thank you! That is my understanding correctly. But driving 1 hour with 25A I would put about 25Ah inside, while with the 40A I would put 40Ah, so I can drive less time and get faster charge.
@@bugrist But a batter can only absorb so much.. A 100A/h battery, 25 Amp will provide more than the battery can absorb. If you have more batteries, then more A/h is better.
@@jjsadv Ummh I see, although lithium can absorb much current, mine is rated 50A max. charge, so....but as you say, it may not take more than 25 amps in practice, or 30 or even 20....
@@bugrist There is no problem using a 40 amp, the battery will be the limit. But just make sure you wiring is up to it, just incase you add more batteries and the charger can get to full current.
Best option for some cases is to buy an inexpensive, but good isolator (about 40 USD e.g. Stinger SGP32 200 AMP) then you have about 400 USD to spare to buy new batteries. Even if you short the optimal life span of your batteries in half; most good batteries come with a 3 years warranty so you can get new ones for free or use the money that you saved to buy them. I am just saying
No, I had it so I hooked it up to link the batteries, but most people don't bother doing this as if you get a flat starter battery you can just use jumper leads that you are probably carrying anyway.
As always, love your work! And love your RIG! I find your videos very informative, specially to newbies whose just gotting into touring and all, like me. Im on a prado owners’ club on facebook, ill give you a should out J :)! Keep those videos coming coz we love watching them!:)
Great video. I am about to setup a dual battery on my truck. I would like to match the size of each wire for my connections. What are the size/gage of each wire?
If you feel you were suffering Battery Longevity issues (From over charging) Monitor Battery Case Temp. I have come across many that run far too hot, to the point they were hot to touch. A modern cranking Battery should last 7 years if looked after People that claim 2-5 years is normal, are kidding themselves
@@Coolbreeze61 Not sure if you need that. The Redarc will do the charging and charge control. And a simple solenoid will do the jump starting if required. But to be honest, I would just use jumper leads for the one time in you life you would use this. I set it up as the solenoid was already fitted.
I doubt its below cost. Cost is probably below $100. Its just a battery charger. But they were a sharp price for the norm, but even at $400, they are expensive for what they are. I guess Redarc didn't like Camping4WD selling below their suggested retail, and pulled the supply. Other retailers most likely complained or pressured Redarc, into it.
@@jjsadv Redarc have increased their prices but I didn't mean manufacturing cost but dealer cost. Their products are made in Australia so they won't be anywhere in the $100 range like generic Chinese imports. Another major retailer here in Victoria has stopped selling Redarc stuff since they upped their prices. Recommended Retail on the BCDC1240 is $709 and the cheapest I've seen it for is $599 from a 'no name' vendor on eBay or $639 from a larger commercial dealer.
@@rolandmatters1619 Yeh, they have managed to keep their prices up there. They work well, but there are other brands that work just as well, for a lot less.
Its always bazzar that you always get a random "Thumbs down". No explanation, just a thumbs down. I dont really care that much, but its a TH-cam Phenomenon.
Waste of money for this application in my opinion. DC to DC charger only worth it if you have more than one auxiliary battery or if you have expensive agm, lead crystal or lithium batteries. A basic VSR with override function hooked up to a 100ah deep cycle lead acid is perfectly fine. Your batteries life cycle will be a result of how you treat it... If you're always depleting it below 50% and using your vehicle on rough off-road outback trips then you'll get shorter life cycles no matter what charge system you use. I can't help but laugh at people spending thousands of dollars on Redarc gear... Bcdc and bms systems on their 4wds and campers, pffff so over priced for what it is and completely unnecessary in a lot of situations.
Steve Burns with a traditional charging system and using the same chemistry on both batteries I agree. But with different chemistries and modern charging systems they are a lot better way to go.
@@jjsadv So if you agree with me, why bother with that expensive Redarc paper weight? Both your batteries look to be SLA? Like I already said, If your auxiliary/2nd battery is AGM or lithium then yeah I can see the advantage for the bcdc. I just hate seeing people get misinformed and ripped off by all these 4wd industry try hards, it's out of control.
I dont agree. I said traditional Charging system. There hasnt been a 4x4 with a traditional charging system for some time. I added a diode to mine to up the voltage (Its Temp compensated). It worked OK, But I get a lot more out of the battery now with the BCDC, and the BCDC doesnt boil off the water like the booster diode system did. Now I can go Lithium if I want to, I can also use the MTTP solar input that gives me about an amp more than my PWM controller on the Panel. Lastly, I just wanted to fit one to have a play with it. Yes a VSR will sort of work most of the time, depending on the charging system, a BCDC just works better, has more features.
I ended up moving it to just behind the grill. One time it got to hot and shut down, that was enough for me to change it. Only took an hour or so once I got a bracket from ARB for $73..
That’s a lot of money for a bracket.
@@alanthomas3690 Possibly, It was ARB, but if I add the time to make one, laser cut it out, bent it up, power coat it etc, I couldn't get close to $70.. This just bolted in, and I was back up and running in 1 hour Max with all the rewiring.
I’ll k
@@alanthomas3690 I got the redarc bracket from Napa auto for $63 plus gst worth it and keeps things tidy for warranty of bcdc charger .
thanks for posting dude I just stumbled across your channel while researching things for our prado
Nice video...
But weres the main and Aux battery fuses on the red and brown cables?
I agree. Definitely need those fuses just in case something goes pear shaped
Really enjoy your video's mate. Super informative and well presented. Keep it up!
Remember to use good quality fuses on all battery connections (stops your car being a fire hazard in an accident) and the BCDC should be as close as possible to the Aux battery.
Good stuff. I'm in the US and planning on a dual battery system for my Toyota Tundra. The Tundra lacks space in the engine bay for a 2nd battery so mine will go in the truck bed so my cable runs will be longer. But your video was still a good wealth of information. Thanks and a lot of us here in the states really envy you guys down under as in many respects your are writing the book and we're benefitting from your great work.
Love where you mounted your fuses! 🔥
Matt Lawrence that’s interesting. I didn’t show the fuses/breakers.
Thanks for the videos. I really enjoy your vids as they are informative and precise. Thanks for sharing
Hey mate good to see some videos made in Perth 👍👍
There are a few TH-camrs in Perth these days making good content.
Great video mate very informative. I have the same vehicle will be putting dual battery system in it what size battery is the second battery
With lead acid the biggest you can officially fit, and the biggest the ARB tray will allow is 85 AH. This is what I was running. But I have change to lithium, and I have a 100AH lithium that is the same size, and fits the tray. The lithium is a game changer, and I have some videos on the channel that go over tis change to lithium and the installation.
I have also change the location of the Redarc to in front of the radiator, as on one trip it did get to hot and stopped charging. I changed it when I got home from the trip.
Hi again ,
I’ve now got a 2012 - 150 TD and taken all my salvaged bits of my written off 120 , BCDC going back on the fuse box and will put my ( found in the shed BSI2 ) on also , I’ve noticed I can’t get a 300 mm second battery in because of the aircon Ali tubing , I’m getting a battery tray for a 150 and they say you can move the tubing over to clear the battery and re clamp the pipe being carefully not to let it touch anything , wondering if you did this or a smaller battery?
Thanks once again Alan.
I just used the ARB tray that only allows for the smaller (85 AH battery.. Any bigger and you rish cracking the gard on corrugations. I will swap it to Lithium when it dies. They now have Lithium at this physical size, that take the heat, and they are 100 AH..
I also added mine to the front in front of the radiator. I did find that it was getting hot and it would back off charging. On one trip where it was really hot, and I was towing, it backed off that much it would not even keep up with the fridge.
So I recommend getting the bracket and mounting it behind the grill.
Have a look at lead crystal batteries for your second. You can discharge to near zero - recharge without losing efficiency.
Thanks for posting this and the temperature information. I’ll be installing my BCDC 1225 in a similar location on my 2018 Lexus GX (4.6 gasser Prado 150 US spec).
Hey JJ,
so you have the earth wire “Black” off the charger straight to the vehicle earth point beside the start battery and the same for the aux battery.
Why didn't you crimp your connections and correct me if I'm wrong but soldering your connections adds resistance Kind regards Phil.
I solder most things, and no it doesn’t add resistance, crimping them can if not done correctly.. some people say soldering can make the wire brittle, but I have not had an issue..
Maybe try the redarc mounting bracket do the dc
I did. It’s now in front of the radiator.
54 k views, well done 👍 JJ
Oh didn’t use any fuses ..? I’ve used some midi fuses for good measure between bcdc and crank battery
Its all fused..
Hey mate great job - any chance on getting a bit more info on how you were able to use your phone app to show your battery voltage?
Its all good, I just watched your other video - looks like a good piece of kit!!
Its a Maston Bluetooth voltage logger
www.tridon.com.au/products/Matson/4079/304985/battery-accessories/527580/battery-monitoring
Available from Auto outlets, Like Supercheap in Australia
Good job thanks ,we had a National Luna charger ,did not do the job that a DC to DC charger does .
Hi JJ
Just had same unit fitted to my 2014 Prado also, auto electrician placed it in same position and after reading manual I was concerned about engine bay temperature. Just wondering how yours is travelling and if temperatures have been an issue?
Cheers 👍
Mr H I haven’t had an issue. I have a IR thermometer and test it form time to time. It gets to 50 degrees but I haven’t had an issue with it charging. Seems to always change the same. But ideally putting it in a cooler place would be better.
So on the SB12 - where did you run the blue wire off it to ? And where did you run the black (ground ) wire too ? I’ve had just a SB12 alone now installed the BCDC1225D but still want the jump start option too
I actually cant remember. I just followed the wiring diagram RedArc suggested for the set up with a BCDC. I went lithium and removed it so I cant check.. Its sitting on the shelf.
Nice work mate. I'm about to do the same upgrade myself.
I didn't see any fuses in your installation though. Or maybe they just weren't shown?
Andrew Dixon I have it all fused or on circuit breakers. I just didn’t have any at the time. Only thing that isnt fused is the charge wire to the second battery. It will be added. I just didn’t have one.
Is that just a blade fuse I see you were using?
Found this video in my youtube random list as you do :) Enjoyed what you had to say and how you presented, just honest work. I agree about keeping honest the retailers, being in the market soon for a DC2DC I might have that one on my short list at that price, I do like to support local product providing my budget can afford it.
You spoke about the voltage diode, which one do you use?
Also what brand is that volt/amp/other meter you have?
Cheers
I made my own diode with a fuse. Costs a couple of dollars. The clamp meter I got from Altronics, it was about $180. I will have to dig it out to get the brand.
Clamp meter
www.altronics.com.au/p/q0966-clamp-meter-acdc-true-rms-600a/
Cheers thanks for the info.
Hey JJ
Great vid mate, very helpful, how much was you clamp meter and where did you get it from?
cheers
jase richo I think it was $100 and I think I got it from Alltronics .
@@jjsadv ok cheers, have been looking at 1 on ebay for around $20 bucks, the same princeable tho, whats your thoughts on that?
jase richo who knows. You generally get what you pay for, but for 20 dollars you can’t go wrong. As long as it’s accurate enough.
@@jjsadv yeah true, cheers
Thanks for the easy to understand video, I have just bought the same charger to replace my now not working SBI12 . It has decent size cabeling with fuses on , was thinking to connect BCDC to them cables and if and when nesessary just jump from auxiliary to starter battery, what do you think, I have a 120 Prado, how did you stick down your charger , same place?
Regards Alan.
Alan Thomas most people just use jumper leads if they have to. That will work fine. I stuck it down with double sided tape as I didn’t know if I was going to keep it there. I will bolt it through. The Velcro strap just helps keep the lid on and the tape form coming unstuck with the heat. All works really well.
Pls note boost mode only runs for 2hrs… see Stefan’s video for more info.
Did you see his follow up.
@@jjsadv About the new firmware, yes.
@@V8LC100 I haven't seen the behaviour he described on the 1225D that I am using on my lithium.. But I am keeping an eye out.. He is using a 1250..
What battery are u running under bonnet as your auxiliary battery .?
I have tried a Lead acid deep cycle and a lithium
Nice video very informative. I have a 2017 Toyota Tacoma Offroad here in Texas. How do you feel about battery box in the back of a vehicle with dc to dc charger? Your opinion would be appreciated . Thanks
There is no problem with this, but a few things to make sure you get right. Have the DCDC close to the battery in the back. Make sure the battery is fully sealed an can not leak in case of an accident or roll over, and make sure that its tied in well, and will not become a missile in case of an accident. The Lithium batteries are best for this, Lite, no acid.
@@jjsadv I have actually done this exact set up in the back of my Tundra. My only question to you is what am I doing with the Blue LED wire? I did not use the DCDC and instead bought the BMS 30 so the black wire (ground) had to go into the BMS 30 ground port. Any advice would be appreciated.thanks.
Chad Howald I didn’t add any LED. I did have the low voltage alternator wire hooked up, but I disconnected it as I didn’t really need it. It’s works with it connected or disconnected on the Prado.
Good video mate. Didn’t that newer version app I told you about work? It’s well worth the download. Especially for the history graph.
I found it via the app, but I havent worried about it yet.
hi just wondering what the app is to see your voltage on the second battery. awesome video by the way@@jjsadv
@@enufsaidmusic Its called "Battery Monitor" and there was a link to it on the box when i bought the BT gadget.
Great video mate, good information which is very helpful. Wiring in a second battery is the next job on my Ranger. Looks like I've got a trip to Camping4WD! 👍
can you tell me the blue wire off the sbi12 gets connected to the top of the sbi12 aux side and the black earth wire is then connected to a switch which is then earthed and thats it
correct
So you still need the booster diode with the bcdc charger?
No you don't. You don't need the trigger wire hooked up either, it just works
@@jjsadv cool, I have one in my glovebox that I never installed when I put in my sbi 😂
@@carlosprite I had a SBI for a while, worked OK, but batteries didnt last as long, I now have 2 x BCDC in the set up, one on the lead acid battery and one on the lithium.
If you are in Perth and want to sell the Redarc let me know.
@@jjsadv just trawling marketplace for a 1225 at the moment, was hoping to set it up in the same config as you on this vid with the bcdc and the sbi 👍🏻 like that you can have both, didn’t know that was a thing until your video 👌🏻
@JJ's Adventures hey.. how close is your a/c pipe to your battery? i'm having trouble fitting my battery as fill point is contacting the battery..
Jay Lee it’s close. I just gently bent it out the way. Been ok since.
Hi great video. Can you explain why you rewired the solenoid (sorry didn’t understand from the video)?
It was originally set up as a Voltage Sensitive Relay, the traditional way you charge and manage a second battery. When i added the BCDC I wanted it to just be a relay to simply link the batteries when I pushed the button, and stop being a VSR. I rewired it to do this.
Thanks watched the video again and you do explain it a couple of times clearly, oops. Can’t multi task and watch the World Cup too
this is exactly what I need to do to my Pajero as I have the SBI but its not cutting it !! thanks great video, but what is the app you run too test the second battery voltage???
"Battery Monitor" its come with the gadget. There was a link to it on the packaging.
Ordered mine, so I connect the bcdc to the cranking battery at the terminal then route the other wire to the secondary battery at the terminal? The leads from the alternator to battery doesnt connect to the redarc then redarc to batteries like in serial?
www.redarc.com.au/wiring-diagrams/bcdc1225-standard-installations
Hi JJ just putting my unit in , the blue low voltage wire ? My lights don’t work like yours 09 120 ,
Can I tap into a relay wire that comes on with ignition or will I have to find another sores of power when ignition turns on
Cheers again Alan.
I dont think you will need to use the blue wire. you only do this is you have a low or variable voltage alternator. I actually ended up disconnecting mine as I didnt really need it. On mine you can use it, but you dont have to.
what size fuses and breakers did you use :)
From memory the fuses are 80 or 100 amp inline barrel type. The breaker is on the circuit to the rear, its 80 amp from memory..
I will probably relocate the redarc some day, and I might then use a fuse block arrangement. But I have to find some place to put it. That side is pretty full now.
Are you happy with the 1225D one year down the track?
Why did you solder instead of crimp?
Yep, Very happy with it. It chargers the battery no slower than the VSR (solenoid) did, and does a better job of getting it fully topped off.
I soldered instead of crimping as I will always solder if I can. I find you have less issues down the track with corrosion etc (especially if you can shrink wrap it). Some say it will make the wire brittle and it will snap, but over the years I haven't seen this issue with the work I have done (I was a industrial/heavy diesel mechanic in the past)
Any probs with the redarc when ambient temps get up into mid 30s. Would think under bonnet temps would climb past the 55C ceiling and output decrease?
Not that I have seen. I carry around a IR thermometer and clamp meters, and have been checking it, the output doesn't seem to change that much. If it does, I will just shift it. It works really well. Better than I expected.
Hello friends. Can you tell me why this is the auxiliary battery which is load by the alternator unless the start battery. Can I do the opposite? Many thanks from Paris
Not fully understanding the question. The Aux battery is changed by the voltage and current from the start battery and alternator. The Alternator isnt connected dorectly to the aux battery. The Redarc DCDC charger is the device that charges the Aux battery.
Hi man,what's your thought on going with the 40A model with an 100Ah lithium battery rated 50A for charge? At Redarc they tell me it's too much but 25A seems slow to me.
A battery will only take so much. for 100A/H 25A is plenty..
@@jjsadv Thank you! That is my understanding correctly. But driving 1 hour with 25A I would put about 25Ah inside, while with the 40A I would put 40Ah, so I can drive less time and get faster charge.
@@bugrist But a batter can only absorb so much.. A 100A/h battery, 25 Amp will provide more than the battery can absorb. If you have more batteries, then more A/h is better.
@@jjsadv Ummh I see, although lithium can absorb much current, mine is rated 50A max. charge, so....but as you say, it may not take more than 25 amps in practice, or 30 or even 20....
@@bugrist There is no problem using a 40 amp, the battery will be the limit. But just make sure you wiring is up to it, just incase you add more batteries and the charger can get to full current.
Best option for some cases is to buy an inexpensive, but good isolator (about 40 USD e.g. Stinger SGP32 200 AMP) then you have about 400 USD to spare to buy new batteries. Even if you short the optimal life span of your batteries in half; most good batteries come with a 3 years warranty so you can get new ones for free or use the money that you saved to buy them. I am just saying
"Best option for some cases"
I'm assuming you're referring to cases where vehicles have smart alternators.
is 10mm square wire the best to go with between any BMS and start battery? my bms is at the back of the car so longer run.
Did you install a fuse able link??
yep
Is it necessary to put dcdc charger and isolator together?
No, I had it so I hooked it up to link the batteries, but most people don't bother doing this as if you get a flat starter battery you can just use jumper leads that you are probably carrying anyway.
I see, thanks your advise
As always, love your work! And love your RIG! I find your videos very informative, specially to newbies whose just gotting into touring and all, like me. Im on a prado owners’ club on facebook, ill give you a should out J :)! Keep those videos coming coz we love watching them!:)
Thanks a lot this video very helpful 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Really i can't find the app in the Google play that's you using
Could you please but the link here
It has a QR code on the device here www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/matson-matson-bluetooth-wireless-battery-monitor/540712.html
Great video. I am about to setup a dual battery on my truck. I would like to match the size of each wire for my connections. What are the size/gage of each wire?
If you feel you were suffering Battery Longevity issues (From over charging)
Monitor Battery Case Temp. I have come across many that run far too hot, to the point they were hot to touch.
A modern cranking Battery should last 7 years if looked after
People that claim 2-5 years is normal, are kidding themselves
can it do agm batteries?
Yep, and Lithium
@@jjsadv does it have the ability to allow the secondary to help the starter battery if it gets too low
@@Coolbreeze61 Not in the Redarc ist self, but I have a solenoid that does this on a button in the cab.
@@jjsadvI guess all you really need is a 24 to 12 buck converter, is that about right?
@@Coolbreeze61 Not sure if you need that. The Redarc will do the charging and charge control. And a simple solenoid will do the jump starting if required. But to be honest, I would just use jumper leads for the one time in you life you would use this. I set it up as the solenoid was already fitted.
It seems Camping4WD no longer sell Redarc products. FYI $400 for a new BCDC 1225D would have been below cost.
I doubt its below cost. Cost is probably below $100. Its just a battery charger. But they were a sharp price for the norm, but even at $400, they are expensive for what they are.
I guess Redarc didn't like Camping4WD selling below their suggested retail, and pulled the supply. Other retailers most likely complained or pressured Redarc, into it.
@@jjsadv Redarc have increased their prices but I didn't mean manufacturing cost but dealer cost. Their products are made in Australia so they won't be anywhere in the $100 range like generic Chinese imports. Another major retailer here in Victoria has stopped selling Redarc stuff since they upped their prices. Recommended Retail on the BCDC1240 is $709 and the cheapest I've seen it for is $599 from a 'no name' vendor on eBay or $639 from a larger commercial dealer.
@@rolandmatters1619 Yeh, they have managed to keep their prices up there. They work well, but there are other brands that work just as well, for a lot less.
Good work!
Thanks
Its always bazzar that you always get a random "Thumbs down". No explanation, just a thumbs down. I dont really care that much, but its a TH-cam Phenomenon.
Maybe because you didn't follow Regards recommendation to crimp and solder.
mopk47 yet maybe. I’m not complaining. Just an observation. :)
Look at it this way, if you don't get a thumbs down on TH-cam, you're not doing it right!
/
Waste of money for this application in my opinion. DC to DC charger only worth it if you have more than one auxiliary battery or if you have expensive agm, lead crystal or lithium batteries.
A basic VSR with override function hooked up to a 100ah deep cycle lead acid is perfectly fine. Your batteries life cycle will be a result of how you treat it... If you're always depleting it below 50% and using your vehicle on rough off-road outback trips then you'll get shorter life cycles no matter what charge system you use.
I can't help but laugh at people spending thousands of dollars on Redarc gear... Bcdc and bms systems on their 4wds and campers, pffff so over priced for what it is and completely unnecessary in a lot of situations.
Steve Burns with a traditional charging system and using the same chemistry on both batteries I agree. But with different chemistries and modern charging systems they are a lot better way to go.
@@jjsadv So if you agree with me, why bother with that expensive Redarc paper weight? Both your batteries look to be SLA?
Like I already said, If your auxiliary/2nd battery is AGM or lithium then yeah I can see the advantage for the bcdc.
I just hate seeing people get misinformed and ripped off by all these 4wd industry try hards, it's out of control.
I dont agree. I said traditional Charging system. There hasnt been a 4x4 with a traditional charging system for some time. I added a diode to mine to up the voltage (Its Temp compensated). It worked OK, But I get a lot more out of the battery now with the BCDC, and the BCDC doesnt boil off the water like the booster diode system did.
Now I can go Lithium if I want to, I can also use the MTTP solar input that gives me about an amp more than my PWM controller on the Panel.
Lastly, I just wanted to fit one to have a play with it.
Yes a VSR will sort of work most of the time, depending on the charging system, a BCDC just works better, has more features.
@@jjsadv Ah sorry right you are, didn't realise you had 'smart alternator'.. They can be a total pita depending on model of vehicle.
Mine is only Temp compensated. Some of the new ones are even smarter and turn themselves fully off when they need or want to for emissions and power..